FlyinFish

Members
  • Posts

    45
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Woodworking Interests
    Things that only require a tablesaw, for now...

Recent Profile Visitors

1,732 profile views

FlyinFish's Achievements

Apprentice Poster

Apprentice Poster (1/3)

31

Reputation

  1. Thanks, Tom! It's a hook shaped magical club thing that a character, Maui, has in the cartoon movie Moana.
  2. Oh every single day, haha! And a spear, and a bow and arrow, and a shield. I'm hoping to think of something with more shaping and less things for them to smash things with.
  3. Inspired by Mark's video on this from several years ago now, made this Maui hook for my 5 yo. I scaled it down a bit and used strips of leftover 1x fir that I had. As you'd expect, I sheared off the glue joints in a couple spots more than once during the initial cutting, so I drove dowels through in a few areas to strengthen. Not at all the best or cleanest way to approach this, but I wanted to use up the scraps and don't mind the patched up look. Seems to be holding up for now. I did all the shaping with a benchtop belt sander, a ROS with 60 grit, and some rasps. It took a bit of effort but was not at all that bad to do without a grinder/carving disk. This was a lot of fun to make and I'm trying to think of other similar things I can make for my boys. Any ideas?
  4. Yup on the first part. Most definitely not on the diving board part, but if it does happen, the child will get a talking to and docked 2 weeks pay. And definitely not taken personally.
  5. I think folks aren't familiar with this more modern style of table. No one is going to sit on this thing. Most of our friends have some form of these tables and no one has ever sat on one or stood on one. It's inherently a weak design. That's what allows it to slide under the couch. If it had 4 legs, it couldn't do that. You can add support in other ways, but it adds bulkiness. So, yes, it's generally susceptible to damage if misused. And it's definitely not an heirloom piece. Just a pretty place to rest a cocktail. If someone breaks it, they'll get a spanking, young or old
  6. Thanks guys. We do all of our table top dancing on the dining table, so I think this should be okay holding up a pint of beer or two. This isn't intended to be like a coffee table. Some c-tables are bigger and higher, but this style is low and small. It's just for resting a drink and remotes/phone on. The breadboard ends on the top are tongue and groove. I'm fully aware of the movement risk and figure this will be a good experiment for that :).
  7. With a 1 year old running around the house I haven't been in the shop for a very long time. We got a new couch and needed a nice c-table. I struggled a bit with the design. I wanted to use white oak and have a traditional look with a touch of modern. I also wanted some exposed joinery. Bridle joints for the legs and I don't know what to call the top bar joint. The top is attached with a widthwise tenon. I was worried about strength of that joint, but it seems rock solid. Natural Oak Minwax stain and oil+poly wipe on finish. I made like half a doze rookie mistakes throughout the build. It's amazing the basic things I forgot after not building anything for over a year.
  8. Here's our 1928 one. We had friends tell us it looked "so cool" and that we should keep it, but the galley kitchen is tiny and we needed the cabinet space. The old mortar is actually very weak and very unsafe if you live where there are earthquakes. The top half I could just pop the bricks out of place with one hand. It's pretty easy to patch the roof if you can get matching shingles and know some basic roofing. Ours went all the way to the basement and was used for the furnace and a wood stove. Patching the floor with fir flooring I milled myself was kinda fun.
  9. Loved that part in that episode. That is one cool shop. There are a lot of great tidbits in the TOH shows beyond the basic construction stuff.
  10. I'm looking to get a spray setup for applying finishes. I'd mainly like something to apply clear lacquer finishes for when I don't want much yellowing from the finish. I'd also like to spray some latex paint if possible, but nothing large or that needs to look perfect. I'll likely get an HVLP turbine, a Fuji 3 or 4, later on to use for remodeling projects but I'd like some sort of LVLP gun to run in the shop on my compressor for now. I'm not looking for something exceptional. Don't mind sanding between coats. Just something to start playing with. My compressor is pretty small, a Makita MAC2400. It's under 5 gal and does just over 4 cfm @ 40 psi. It looks like there are a few guns Campbell Hausfeld makes that run at 4 cfm and have a 1.4 mm tip. They're also $30-60. Anybody have any experiencewith these? There's the CHK005 kit or the DH5800 that I'm looking at. Am I just wasting time/money on these or with my little compressor? Any other help? I've done a littlle reading, enough to know I'll need something like the Fuji for more serious work, but don't know much else.
  11. Thanks guys. And thanks for the finish tips. Those were basically the things I was considering, but just didn't want to screw it up or have it yellow. Now that I have a bit more time, I'll do some test pieces and then try to get a finish on.
  12. Just had our first, a baby boy. In looking for a bassinet, we couldn't find anything we liked that was under $500, and even those weren't great. The one we did like was one from Land of Nod, http://www.landofnod.com/olin-bassinet/f15551, and Cremona had a video on a very similar one he built. I wasn't quite ready to take on one that complicated and really didn't have the time, so decided to make a similar one. We're big fans of Danish/Scandinavian design and I love the look of exposed ply edges, so got some 3/4" birch for this. The two end faces should probably be 1" for more stability, but this was a perfect cut list for a 5x5 sheet. I considered using Apple Ply, but it was way expensive and very heavy and would have been hard for me to handle in my small shop. The Baltic birch worked out just fine and had reasonable clean edges. Cut the sides and luckily had a 2" forstner bit from another project to do hole patterns instead of slats. A lot faster and has a more playful and modern look. Started with rectangular pieces for the ends and cut the dado slots, then did the angled sides and rocker shaping. It was a bit of a pain since I don't have a band saw, but just used a jigsaw and coping saw and then a ROS and the Ridgid spindle/belt sander. Used a pattern bit on the router to cut out the matching second face. Pretty simple build and love the look. We also could not find a dresser we liked and our tiny bedroom does not have space for a dresser and a changing table. We liked a dresser from IKEA, and just needed to get a changing topper on. I made a simple topper with some cubbies to raise the height and then a changing tray on top. Used 1/2" birch ply for these and dadoes all around. Can maybe make simple drawers/bins later, or get soft sided ones, or just leave it the way it is. Attached the three pieces using little L-brackets with recessed slots for them. I struggled a lot with how to finish these. I didn't want any yellowing as we like the look of the birch as-is. I don't have a sprayer setup, and it seemed like all the best ways to get the desired finish required a sprayer. I tried some spray can options and it just did not work out well. I decided to leave them unfinished. I know, crazy, but I'm sort of okay with that. The bassinet is only for the first 3 months or so, and it really won't get dirty. The changing topper is of course at high risk for getting natural staining, but I figure I can always sand that out or just end up painting it. It won't be on there for many years, so not too worried about it. These were some really fun, simple, and quick projects to add custom touches to our room remodel and to welcome the kid home. Gave me some satisfaction and distraction without having a massive build on my hands with the clock ticking and the kid ready to arrive.
  13. Mike, plenty of clearance for drainage, except in the bottom inside corners. Not much I can do there. But the spots were even on the flat surfaces. Thanks for the links on the other options. I want to give the GFs another try, but will save those others for future projects. I got the stuff off just fine with some quick sanding, so it's all gone now. The directions are pretty simple and I followed what they said. I guess I also wonder what caused the mold/mildew. Wet and shade makes sense, but our front door is an old wood door that basically has no finish left on it and it has no problems. I figured this would have done a little better. And it was only a couple months, not even a full year/season.
  14. Last summer I built a screen door out of CVG fir. I decided to use GF's Outdoor Oil because I liked the idea of using an oil and figured I wouldn't mind re-applying annually. It also had rave reviews from many people. I think I applied 3 good coats. And of course this was in the summer time and I allowed for plenty of dry time in between coats. I did use some super fine steel wool in between coats. The door sits a bit protected as it's under a small porch, but the bottom half still gets wet from wind driven rain. Well, at the end of just a very short fall season (I'm in Seattle so from Sept to Nov we did get significant rain), there was a bit of "pitting." I'm not sure what to call it, but basically small black spots, mostly small dots, but a few of the lower inside corners had a decent amount of blackening. Kind of looks like how mold builds up. I removed the door sometime in November and have sanded the finish off. I didn't get any pictures of the damage spots, sorry, but they sanded out fairly easily. They were by no means deep, but did go a bit beyond the surface layer. My plan is to re-do it with the outdoor oil and put more coats, maybe 4 or 5. Any thoughts on what could have caused the damage? Did I not apply the finish well? Too light on each coat? Not enough coats? Sanded too much in between coats? Any tips on what to do differently? Is 4 or 5 coats overkill? It is an oil, so it's not like I'm building a film (though it does seem like there is a slight film). Does applying more coats get more oil into the wood and more protection? Thanks for any help. I'm quite surprised at the performance since the outdoor oil has such great reviews. I don't want to sand it down every year, but I have no problem simply reapplying every year. I also plan to remove it for the wet seasons, but sometimes you have mixed weather up here in Sept/Oct and June/July where you have rain one day and need a breeze in the house the next day.
  15. I decided to clean up the shop a bit and make a bench for the wall where I basically just stacked a bunch of plastic drawers when me moved in and had a crappy metal shelf that came with the house. I also wanted to get the folding miter saw stand stored away, but still have the saw out and accessable. The before shot with most of the clutter already cleared out. I used "premium" fir 2x4s and 4x4s. Nothing fancy. I decided to bolt the frame for easy disassembly if needed and then screws for the rest. I used GRK screws for the first time and they were a joy. Worth a few extra bucks. Added the insert for the saw and made a quick box for drawers with 1/2" ply and some rabbetts. Then used 1/2" ply to case the rest. Not sure yet if I'll do shelves or just leave it open for storing large items. Attached 3/4" ply for the tops and made a removable insert if I ever want to remove the saw and use the full bench. I need to round the left side top to open up a walk way. I left enough height to store a bunch of long items underneath. For now I just threw the plastic drawers in there, but I need to decide on drawers, shelves, doors, etc. I also am not sure whether to leave the left side as an open space for storage or put in shelves. We'll see. I'm in no rush, but this sure cleaned up the space and gave me something more than my outfeed table for a working surface.