Rvlewis

First real woodworking project I ever did was a crib/toddler/full-size bed. Got the plans and hardware kit from Rockler. I made a few tweaks to the plan, but overall it was not too hard, it looks great, and since it converts from crib to toddler bed to full size bed, it has gotten a lot of use. Didn't need a lot of specialized tools,either. Basic hand tools, small band saw, and small router table were pretty much all I needed.

If you have the broken piece, I'd first glue that back on. If not, I'd probably first make the repair, then use an epoxy wood filler to fill the hole and sand smooth. As for the repair, I'd consider using a band clamp long enough to go around the perimeter, put some glue in the joint, then tighten the band clamp around the frame perimeter, which would hopefully pull the broken joint back together. If the band wasn't strong enough, as I suppose it likely isn't, I'd probably just use two long bar clamps, one in the north-south direction and the other in the east-west. Alternately tighten them little by little until the blown-out joint was back together. Let dry overnight before removing clamps. Use good quality glue like Titebond II or III. You don't really need the waterproof III, but to be honest I use it for pretty much anything I glue. Glue and decent clamps can be found at places like Home Depot. I've done something similar before and found the joint glued up well and didn't really need another dowel to be strong enough.

Personally, I'd consider drilling out both ends of the crack with a small bit before filling, gluing, etc. My experience with pretty much any hard material is that once a crack starts, it tends to keep moving. Drilling the end of a crack can generally stop it right where it is. Admittedly, I've used this technique mostly with welds and cast steel, but it may be worth considering here.

I've had similar trouble with bearing grooves in MDF. Probably mostly technique I'll freely admit, but I do use an epoxy wood hardener to make the MDF templates more reliable. For templates that I intend to use a lot or for applications that just require very high precision routing, I use pieces of clear polycarbonate (ex:Lexan). Polycarbonate machines really nicely, unlike acrylic (ex:Plexiglas), which tends to chip and is really rough on your tooling. I like to use 1/2" poly, but you can't find that thickness at Home Depot. I normally go to a local industrial plastics company and buy their remnants. Polycarbonate is more expensive than acrylic, but in my opinion the cost is largely offset by being pretty gentle on expensive bits.

definitely a nice piece of work, for sure. I like the redwood top - not something you see every day. Thanks for the info on flap wheels. Will have to look into those as well...

Thanks for the tip. Will check that one out too.

Very cool. Never saw one of those duplicarvers. Do you final shape only with the flap wheels, or do you use them from start to finish? I've never actually used a flap wheel before, so I'm not sure of their capabilities.

First, I have to admit to googling "Greene & Greene", but now I see what you mean about ramping up at the neck with a template. Pretty good idea, because although we do almost entirely one-of-a-kind pieces, I am constantly making templates just in case we do need a two-of-a-kind someday. In the end, think a template for the basic cut followed by power carving to shape is the right procedure for us. Thanks again to everyone for their input. It's been a huge help!

Been building solid body electric guitars for about 10 years now, but admittedly don't have an otherwise very diverse woodworking background, unless framing walls counts too... That said, I have four AH-HA's to pass along: 1. Respect your power tools from a safety standpoint, but none more than your router. Always put enough of the bit's shank in the collet and tighten well. I once tried to just get that extra 1/4" depth in a cavity so I pulled the bit too far out of the collet to make the deeper cut. Bit caught on a bit of end grain and launched out of the router and flew right past my face, denting the drywall about 15 feet away. Was wearing my safety glasses, but don't think it would have helped much if the bit hit me in the face... 2. If you are just starting out, don't go for the best tools money can buy, but do buy good quality tools nonetheless. Anything less and you won't be pleased with the experience and you'll be more likely to give it al up as a result. I went cheap on a few key tools and was fortunate I was able to afford replacing them when I realized how badly they sucked. 3. Get a couple of those big "erasers" for cleaning sanding belts. You'll be shocked when you see how much more life you get out of sandpaper when you clean the buildup. The erasers work just as well on sandpaper sheets too. 4. If you make a mistake on a project, try to fix, but if all else fails, make it look like it was intentional...

Some good advice on here about this situation. I'd just add a few things... 1. Be careful using any combustion heater while in the shop. I'm not talking about the fire hazard, either. Many (most?) combustion heaters require that you keep some kind of door/window open to provide fresh air. CO exposure is a real concern, even with a kerosene heater. I know this one from experience. You'll feel sick and can get out well before it kills you, but you will feel like crap for days. 2. Consider also getting a cheap humidity meter, which is the best way to ensure that you are humidifying or dehumidifying as well as possible. Winter air tends to be much drier and will suck your lumber dry, although your combustion heat will add moisture too. Hard to tell what you've got unless you measure it, though. 3. Last, I wouldn't glue anything in the cold. I'd suggest bringing any project wood inside for a couple of days, and do your gluing there too. From there, I'd do everything I possibly could to avoid bringing the project back into the warm and cold cycles of the shop... 4. Is your shop big? Any chance your could just install a window AC/heat unit to give you better year-round control?

Thanks for the quick replies all. We are pretty well setup for any perimeter shaping though bandsaw, coping, rasps, router, etc. The interior recessed stuff was particularly troubling, though. I thought about router jigs and templates, which may still be an option in some cases, but I think I'll look into the power carving for sure. Just got back from Arbortech's web site, and like what I see of the mini grinder. I'm relieved to hear that I don't have to hog this type of project out with small chisels and gouges, and firing up my chainsaw seemed a bit extreme... Seriously, I do appreciate the help, and I'll certainly stick around and return the favor with whatever knowledge/experience I may have...

Hey all, new to this forum and thought I'd start by throwing this general question out there: I realize the high volume shops would use CNC for this type of stuff, but what hand and/or power tools do you think a small shop could use to shape the recessed areas of something like this guitar body? I am not looking to build that guitar specifically, but am a custom guitar builder and would like to do similar shaping on an upcoming project. Thanks in advance for any info that helps point me in the right direction.