Robert Morse

yeah, I saw that video - Kev had a terrible experience, but mine is a few years older (not the current PM2000B version), and hasn't had any issues, other than the caster thing I described, which was fixed. It's a solid saw, so hoping someone here is interested before dropping into the hell which is Craigslist.

Need to get this out of the shop too - life has slowed down enough that I have time to sell it finally. Dropping $50, so asking $500 now.

Now that life is LESS in the way, I'm going to try to sell this again, and knock $200 off the price - so asking for $2300 for all of it shown above.

In related news, Minnesota Steve's drill is so sparkly, you can see it from space. I too have a daughter under 10.

I have 2 sets of the Bosch 1617 (each with fixed and plunge bases). I love how smoothly they start up, and the wood handles on the fixed bases feel really nice in my hand. I also have a PC 690 fixed base and while very functional, it's not the one I reach for most of the time, due to how jerky it starts up - there's noticeable torque, while the Bosch routers spin up without the torque.

10' would be better - it would give clearance to actually lift/carry long things more easily... I don't know how I got by in garages with 8-9' ceilings before I moved into the current shop. I'm NEVER going back to low ceilings.

Enough slop in the holes? Not on mine there isn't. Something I'll address when/if I make a new table. In regards to the insert plate, I totally agree, but i was able to reference the cast iron top with a 6" combo square to validate flatness, with no insert in place. So that worked OK for me.

A few thou doesn't seem like it would matter much, but mine's 1/8" to 1/4" low at the far right edge... I think that's enough to show on some joinery (mitered corners perhaps?), if you're muscling a long piece across the table. Plus, it was expensive, and I'd just like to know it's RIGHT. at some point down the road, i'll probably make a new table, and drill my own holes in the side, so I KNOW it's right. No, and I should have called that out on my "what's different"... 2 wrenches are needed for blade changes. On the plus side though, I feel like my big ol' paws can get into the throat area easier on the SawStop. Is it part of an attempt to upsell? Hard to say - I sorta feel like this is an integration issue where they either sub-out the table to someone else to make, or the jigs for drilling the holes are out of alignment, full of chips or something.

Thanks - I'm hoping it goes quickly.

Selling my 2hp Jet dust collector DC-1200VX-CK1 with 2 micron canister filter kit (710702K), along with wood river 220-volt dust collector remote control (very similar to this). Ready for pick up in Woodinville, as it doesn’t fit in my car. In very gently used condition – no major scratches or bends in the paint or the filter cover. Includes at least one Jet bag, and i'm pretty sure I have the instruction manual too. Note the images below are from Amazon, and I'll add more when I get home, and get the storage dust wiped off. Available for pickup/inspection in Woodinville, WA. Cash or paypal, $550.

Selling my Powermatic PM2000, 3hp, single phase 230v, with 30” rails. Detailed list of accessories included is below (inserts, Incra miter sled, blade). Looking for $2500, cash or paypal. This saw is a little over 4 years old, I’m the only owner, and I’m selling it because my wife got me a SawStop. Functions great, some discoloration of cast iron and on the exposed metal on the rails, but nothing that impacts functionality. This is a heavy, full size cabinet saw, and it runs amazingly well – very smooth and powerful. Full disclosure: I had a factory service tech come out immediately after purchase to fix one of the retractable casters which was wonky. These work fine now. No other issues. Includes: Saw with factory accessories: 30” fence rails set with Accu-fence 3hp, single phase 220v Saw is equipped with a built in, retractable mobile base. Very convenient. Powermatic insert, riving knives (both standard and low profile), blade guard, 27mm blade wrench Powermatic miter gauge Instruction manuals Freshly cleaned top, it has always been coated with CRC 3-36 or Boe-Shield, and Paste Wax. Attached folding outfeed table (double layer MDF, with hardwood edging and black laminate on both sides). This helps the saw handle larger work pieces more easily while keeping the saw’s small footprint. It folds away for easy storage if necessary. Also easy to remove if you don’t want to use it, as it’s mounted on the rear rail. (approx. $100 in materials). The laminate has some glue stains on it, and minor scratches from use, but is otherwise in great shape. Extra cast iron wing (Powermatic thought I needed another one due to some manufacturing discoloration on one that came with the saw. I never installed it. Still in box, never opened). Incra Miter 5000 SE (~$350 new). Used sparingly, includes t-track clamp and “drop board” to catch cutoffs and minimize tear out. 3x LeeCraft phenolic inserts (~$40 each new). 1 for standard blade, zero clearance. 1 for ¾” dado stack. 1 for ¼” dado stack. 10” Forrest Woodworker II blade (~$120 new) – full kerf. Still plenty sharp, but it fits the zero clearance insert above precisely, so I’m including it. This blade is fantastic for both cross cuts and rips in hard and softwood. All together it was somewhere north of $3600 new, before tax. Looking for $2500, cash or paypal. Saw is available for inspection, testing and pickup in Woodinville. You can back up a pickup truck or van right to my shop to load. Plan to bring help and/or a liftgate, it’s heavy.

You're in Minnesota, right? If you were about half as far, we could meet in the middle.

Yeah, that's about where I'm at too... I'll get on that right after a sled, outfeed table, an under-wing cabinet, and maybe a couple of other cabinets around the shop.

I had a WWII on my PM2000, and had a good experience, so I thought I'd try this one. You can find more about them here: https://www.sliversmill.com/product_1594_SPECIAL_10x40T_Woodworker_II__1_8_THICK_Kerf_For_SawStop_Ta.html "This blade is the same as the regular 10"x40T Woodworker II with the exception of having a slightly larger outside diameter which works well with SawStop's automatic brake design. More sharpenings are possible with these longer tipped teeth." That's a bit out of the way...

I type all day for my day job - the flesh-sensing is just a cheap insurance policy. However, I loved the PM2000, and all else being equal, I would have kept it. The PCS is very well made, but the PM2000 has a slightly deeper table, and I loved the integrated caster system. I don't think you can go wrong with either of these saws.