soonerdg

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About soonerdg

  • Birthday 03/30/1972

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Joshua, Texas
  • Woodworking Interests
    furniture, crafts, home improvement

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  1. I'll confess that I now use a domino. No particular reason, I just wanted it. However, before getting it a couple of years ago I did all of my M&T joinery with the loose tenons. I never used a jig, just the router guide that came with my router. As said, strength isn't an issue. Also, have you considered dowels? I know that's a dirty word in some woodworking circles but Dowels are literally just round loose tenons. They're more than strong enough for furniture building. Unless you have an 800 pound pet gorilla!
  2. Tongue and Grove router bits. About to start making flooring for the house.
  3. Love Marc's site. The pay site thewoodwhispererguild.com is great as well if you want VERY detailed learning. For books, check out a couple of recent books by Mike Pekovich from Fine Woodworking. I don't recall the names.
  4. I know there have been a number of replies and I didn't read them all so you may already have your answer. I would glue your 4/4 boards to some kind of substrate (plywood) and then use a face board to get the thickness you're looking for. However, if you're dead set on solid wood there's no good reason no to glue the thinner boards face to face. If I were going to do that, I would face glue the narrow boards and then edge glue the thicker narrow boards to make the countertop. That just seems easier to me.
  5. This is on the bench, the table saw, the outfeed table and most of the empty space in my shop, LOL. Kitchen counter top for the cabin.
  6. As far as cost I find the same as Askland09. Rough milled roughly half the cost of s4s. For me there are other considerations. 1 big one is I don't have to take my stock to 3/4. I can make it slightly heavier if I want to. Or slightly thinner. Plus, when I get to my final thickness I can know I have straight, square and flat boards. More often than not s4s will require some bit of milling to get straight, flat and square. As far as waste, you're paying for the waste on s4s as well. Generally their pricing is done based on the BF before milling. Another reason it's more expensive. To minimize waste i buy boards close to the thickness that I want. If I want 3/4 i buy 4/4 lumber. If i want thicker end stock I go to 6/4 or 8/4. If I need to go thinner than about 3/4 of the rough thickness then I generally will resaw before milling.
  7. I've got at 30 inch pedestal fan from HF. It moves a lot of air.
  8. I don't know if you have a Harbor Freight near you but if you do you can get a handheld metal detector for about $16. You can run that along your cut line to see if there are any nails. In that type of piece I doubt there will be any nails substantial enough to cause a serious kickback of your circular saw. But you never know.
  9. I work in the cargo industry and most times freight, particularly larger pieces like furniture, are charged based on volume weight rather than actual weight. There's a calculation that shipping companies use to calculate volume weight based on the size of the piece (crate) and then they will bill the larger of the volume weight or the actual weight. To calculate domestic volume weight in pounds for fedex: (LxWxHxPc)/139 (measurements in inches) So a piece that's 2'x2'x3' (about the size of the crate to ship a small side table that might way 5 pounds) would have a volume weight of 149.17 So if hat piece has a scale weight of 5lbs you will actually pay for the 149.17. This is why shipping furniture is ridiculously expensive. Different companies use a different divisor to calculate volume weight. For instance we use 194 rather than 139. Which would make the volume weight 106.8lbs using our calculation. So you'd be better off to quote your shipping based on volume weight unless you have a particularly dense piece of furniture. Or it's broken down and packaged to be assembled later.
  10. What about something like this. It's blue tooth so your phone should connect to it whenever it gets is able read it. Any call or text would be indicated visually. There may be other similar devices. This is just the first one I came across. https://www.incipio.com/prompt-bluetooth-visual-notification-pod.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=PW-153&gclid=CjwKEAjwz4u9BRCbioK3stnBznESJADA75xbtMdy63bILBK2fBy8iIn5DJtnagxsfj2z08gOQPxAuxoCfLTw_wcB
  11. Stability issues aside I agree that 1" thick would just look odd. Chances are that your client will think so as well when they see the finished piece. I think you would end up remaking the top. Kitchen counter tops are made to look like they are 1.5" thick because that's pleasing to the eye. If you put this piece in the kitchen it will just look odd IMO.
  12. Yep, I do this all the time when it's easy to get to the glue line. When it's not I use another method. There certainly is nothing wrong with wiping wet glue. But, as with almost every woodworking technique there are some instances where another method works better or is just easier.
  13. Can you order online from Harbor Freight. They have a fairly inexpensive handheld metal detector that should work fine for your use.
  14. Here's my $.02, for what it's worth. 1) I only will have a miter saw and a kreg jig to make this, so I will likely spend a lot of time picking out the lumber pieces making sure they're straight. Are 2x8s a good choice for this? I'd add a sander to the tool list if you can. You should be able to accomplish the design you have with just a few basic tools. 2) I want to make sure the shelves are strong enough to support sitting on, do I need to build anything under them as support? I would add some small triangular blocks under each shelf. Maybe just 3 per side. Or maybe some decorative iron shelf brackets. That should make it plenty sturdy to sit on. 3) I designed the bottom frame to be 70" long, but given the top is 88, can I get away with something shorter? I wouldn't go any smaller on the base for fear the top would be "tippy" when you sit on the edges. 4) How would you attach the bottom and top frame to each other? I'd like it to be reversible, so I was thinking one of those metal plates with holes for screws in it to attach the back pieces together. There's really no need to attach the top frame to the base frame unless it slides around. Then just a couple of screws to hold it in place should be fine. 5) I can probably nudge the budget up a bit to get something nicer for the top shelf boards which will be visible, what would you recommend? You could go with something like cherry if you can get it. But if you're getting your lumber from the big box stores you'll be pretty much limited to whatever their particular speicies of dimensional lumber is and maybe some oak (which is cost prohibitive to get fromt these places) and maybe poplar. I'd stick with whatever you use for the rest. With a little work you can actually stain and finish the lumber to look quite nice. As stated above you'll want slats under the mattress or it will sag over time. And make shure the frame can be broken down to be moved.
  15. Thanks guys. I think I'll make the trip this year.