Dave

I have used allaboutpins.com a couple times. They also have allaboutchallengecoins.com. The pins were inexpensive and good quality. I am assuming the challenge coins would be as well. I sent them my own design files but they will do artwork.

I do a lot of epoxy inlays on the cnc and use abranet sandpaper, but still have to clean it continuously. I have never chilled the pieces prior to sanding. Just take even steady back and forth and then up and down. Epoxy does not have a grain so you can sand both ways. Then go to the next grit. Make sure to use a brush and vac to clean the abranet in between change of direction or on large pieces more often. If you see any tiny dust swirls stop and clean the sandpaper. If you don't the build up will leave curly swirls in the epoxy. You may not see it now but you will when you finish it. If you are sanding a combination of wood and epoxy be careful because they will sand very differently.

Just curious of you thought process of using tabs over CA/blue tape. I tend to use CA/Blue tape to avoid cutting and cleaning up the tabs. For one sided pieces most times I am not screwing or clamping, just tape. Don't take this wrong way - We would both accomplish the same thing just differently.

Make sure you can still update the drivers for the plotter before you update the computer operating system. I have an old Xerox large format plotter that will not work on windows 10. We have to keep an pre-windows 10 computer around to plot drawings. And I still have a drafting board in my office with a parallel bar. Somewhere in a corner i have a Vemco drafting machine - I'm starting to feel old now.

Yes, exactly - stick it on the tool and then stick sanding disk to it. When I bought my first Festool sander the store suggested the intermediate pad to save the wear and tear on the Festool hook/loop. It must have worked because the hook and loop was still sticky when the foam separated from plate that bolts to the sander. I pretty much use Mirka Abranet - buy them in bulk when the store near me has one of their sales. The Abranet removes easily. I've used some pads that start to pull the protector off, but don't ever recall any that were a PIA to remove.

I use a similar pad protector linked above, i think it is made by Mirka. Whoever makes it, it is less expensive than Festool. If I remember correctly it was in the $5 range. For me, using the intermediate pad the hook and loop outlasted the foam on the Festool pad.

I always say - if i die for some reason, I hope my wife doesn't sell my tools for what I told her I paid for them...

I don't think it had anything to do with changing the blade. I hit the switch to turn the saw off and motor kept running - the switch was bad. I pulled the switch apart and it was not worth repairing. Bought a new one from Amazon.

Don't make things too "permanent". I have rearranged the shop 4-5 times when I have added machines or trying to get a better work flow. I used to have the jointer in the corner because I only used it for a relatively short amount of time on each project. It was inconvenient and I found myself delaying or finding something else to do because i didn't feel like dragging it out for 5 minutes of work. Personally I find it more satisfying when all of the major equipment is out and ready to use - and projects get done faster because I'm not kicking sawdust around the floor watching YouTube videos because I need to drag out the jointer. If you are using your bench as an outfeed table and the counters around the jointer allow you to use it without pulling it out - you have a good start. I also like to keep my sanders and hand tools closer to the bench and use the cabinets near the corners for miscellaneous storage.

I never looked that close at mine, but I thought I read somewhere that they were glued in. Superglue if i remember correctly. Laguna has a video on how to replace the ceramic guides. I did not watch the video but if the guide is still usable it may give you some info on how to glue back in.

You can use a sleeve anchor in hollow masonry walls. Use the shortest possible anchor for your total material thickness. Example: A 5/8" x 4 1/4" sleeve anchor has 2 1/2" max material thickness. Don't use wedge anchors, those are for filled masonry and solid concrete. adhesive anchors and sleeves are kind of a PIA and you really don't need them for this application. And as drzaius said don't anchor in the grout lines, anchor directly into the block. Check to see if you town has a fastener store such as Fastenal. Although I hate to recommend Fastenal, they do have store everywhere.

Have fun in Prague. I was there this summer, took the train up from Munich. Old Prague has some really neat architecture.

Sears has some good sales going on.

i have had decent luck with an impact driver getting stuck screws out. give it a couple of short bursts to make sure the bolt head is not real soft. if the screw is magnetic, replace it with a stainless steel screw.

I use Amish ironworkers to erect buildings for me. they have tractors, boats, go on vacation to Florida - just like the rest of us.