pghmyn

For the space and location of the blemish, neither of those would really fit. The runner was the first thing that came to mind, but then I tried really hard to make it work in my mind and I couldn't do it. I think I will end up trying to fill in the scratch with some clear coat. But I want to see if there is something that will help blend the current clear coat. I guess I'm thinking like when old shellac is gone over with new shellac and it "melts" into it. Thanks for the help, everyone. In the long run, I will probably plan to cut these pieces out and replace them with what I have left over. I guess this is another good reason to get the extra 10%. Not only for cutoffs and waste, but repairs down the road. In case anyone was wondering about the product, other than my scratch scenario, it really is a great product. I got it for $2.20/sq.ft on sale from $4.15/sq.ft (clearance). The product is of mixed lengths. 48in 36in 28in 22in. Planks are 5in in width. Durable for all normal uses, so far, as it has been in for about a month now. It gave three options to install. Glue down, staple down, or float. I went with floating, and in the end that is the ONLY decision I regret. I believe I would have been more satisfied with the staple down approach as it would have felt more solid. Not that it moves around, but it is hard to describe the difference without feeling/hearing it in person. Maybe some of you might know. In the end, would I recommend it? Absolutely. It will be the floor material in my next house, I'm sure of that. Lessons learned this time are better executed next time.

I think I'll try to disguise for now. And replace later. I mean, it sucks. It really just took my happy new furniture day and made me angry. I'll get over it, I guess. I've got other projects to focus on first before I think about going down the replacement rabbit hole. Thanks for the help gentlemen!

Looks like it is just the clear. And it looks more "dented" as compared to scratched in most spots along the length. Any way to make the clear "flow" again? As for gluing in a new piece, I can't glue down to the sub floor because the rest of the floor will move and this will remain I'm in place. Maybe cut off the tongue parts and glue edge to edge.

I would have plenty, but the joints are glued together. Is there any way to break the glue bond?

Fellow woodworkers. I have not been around much to for posting content. More so lurking around. The house has been my main project for my free time. Walls came down. New woodwork went in. Stairs were rebuilt. Paint went up. And above all, all new engineered hardwood throughout the first floor. I went with a birch product, because it really fit well with our style. It is extremely durable, and hold up well to the dogs. I accidentally gouged the floor with a nail sticking out of a chair. Nothing I could fix with a close matching stain. I went with the "floating" method because I took out all my old floor and replaced all the subfloor to a nice level surface. My product wasn't click-lock, so all I had to do was glue the joints. Simple process, and the floor was in before you knew it. Overall, really satisfied with the product. Fast forward a month, and our new furniture comes. Time to move the old furniture out, and I think I'm smart by tipping it onto the back side with is a soft fabric surface. Proceed to drag across the room. Look back and see a long trail of a scratch. Explicit terms come out of my mouth like no other. I look for what caused it, and after some searching, there was just the TIP of a blown out staple sticking out of the padding that only shows when you push on the fabric. I've never felt so stupid. Long story short, attached is a picture of my floor. I'm looking for a solution to fix this problem. Ideas about blending, or a procedure that might work best for me. Lucky me, the scratch is right in the walking path so I can't cover it up with a table or furniture.

As little as I reply to threads on here, this deserves a huge congratulations! My wife has been attempting to sway me towards having our first child soon. I must say, she is getting close to persuading me! Best of luck to you in the future with your newest addition.

I didn't think it would be quite that high, although I was expecting them to be my highest quote. I just didn't like that the guy seemed incredibly pushy. I was happy with what I saw from the local guy, but if something on the installation end malfunctions and this guy is out of business, who is going to cover my warranty?

Company 1 was actually Feldco. I'm sure that I've made my decision, and narrowed it down to warranty reasons - along with quality. The last company that I called is the one that did the windows for my brother. This company happens to be Window World. They gave me a ballpark estimate over the phone without seeing my house, because I was just curious. He said the price of $5370 is the max, and it can only go down depending on what he sees when he comes out here, and options that I want. My brother paid $5500 for 14 windows, so I think that my price should go down just a little. Either way, I'm happy with the product that they installed at my brother's home. The inside and outside look clean. The windows perform well, and look aesthetically pleasing. I am choosing to go with this company because they are well known, have a market presence, and offer a lifetime warranty. Only thing that makes me shy away from the small guy is the fact that he does offer a warranty, but what if he is not around in 5 years if something goes wrong with the installation? As much as I would like to support the local business, as I really liked this guy, I don't want to take a risk that my warranty will go up in smoke. Is there some way around that?

Just got off the phone with the company that did the windows on my brother's house. $5370 he said was the max that would be charged to me. There is wiggle room to go lower, but it will not go any higher. This was an over the phone consultation, and he will be coming out this weekend to give me a more in depth viewing. All the companies that I went to do the work from the outside and do not touch the inside trim. I want to have the inside trim replaced since it is painted in some rooms, stained in others, some is very weathered from where previous owners let them get soaking wet. I will probably end up doing this trim myself, since I'm sure I can handle it. I'm going to my brother's house today to look over his windows and see what he thinks about them.

Hello everyone. Long time since my last post, since I have had nothing interesting to speak of since school started and my life has been school, research, and work. But I come to you all as an unbiased source of information for my situation. My wife (I'm finally married!) and I decided the next big upgrade is windows for the house. Big cost expenditure, and a really worth while one as well. My windows are single pane glass with almost all the glazing dried out and cracking off. I have three different window styles in my house, and they are all terrible. I can sit on my couch and with enough of a breeze outside it feels like someone is sitting behind me trying to get my attention by blowing in my ear and down my neck. Let me give you the run down of windows: 10 double hung windows, typical size 1 bathroom slider 1 large picture window in my living room I've gone to two companies and received quotes. Company 1 (big name brand with lots of employees/overhead) $11,000 - but if you order by the end of the month, $8,500! (ha...) Their company makes the windows. Company 2 (small local guy that does the quoting, ordering, installing...basically no overhead) $4,000 (Windows are the brand "Mastic" by PlyGem) Problem with the local guy is that he doesn't have reviews plastered all over the internet like the big name brands. It makes me nervous to hire a small time contractor with those shows on TV that twist me into thinking everyone is a crook. I liked and appreciated his honesty, to a point where I didn't actually feel pressured with him here. I felt better customer service from the small local guy than I did with the big name brand. I mentioned that I wanted new doors, and immediately the big name company said their cheapest door is $3,000 minimum per door. The local guy said that he can order a door from his supplier and install it, but he can save me money if I pick out exactly what I want at home depot/menards/lowes/or wherever and he just charges me for installation. He measured and gave me all the dimensions that I need to look for if I chose this route. I know that quotes are usually done in groups of three, but with the two that I have now, I am heavily leaning toward the local business. Is there something I can do to ensure I will not be (lack of a better term) screwed if he tries to swindle me?

Thanks guys. Nurses said no to makeup on the cut because of the location. Any infection in this area would be bad news. I have a research position in my university's structural durability lab. Lots of heavy equipment. Smashed my finger with lots of blood involved. This caused me to eventually lose my balance and my face met a 10 ton crane hook and a plywood mount. Not the most manly way to get these wounds. But painful nonetheless.

My wedding is this Saturday, and we are buttoning up a few loose ends. Everything was going smooth. Until this week. I was working in the lab when a series of events led me to having my nasal bridge bone visible through a large gash. Now I have 6 stitches and a handful of other superficial cuts across my nose and eye. Really going to make for great pictures if the stitches can't come out the morning before the wedding. That old saying just came true for me. Bummer.

We were thinking the same thing about the poles with renting heavy equipment, or finding someone in the area. The concrete can wait, since getting a dry place to store our things is first priority. We will probably do a floor of crushed rock first, unless the concrete price isn't too bad.

We want to put up a pole barn to store the boat and other toys up there. Is a pole barn kit easy enough to follow? We are going to price out having the work done for us, but if we can do it ourselves, that would save more money for other land prep things.

My parents decided to purchase some land for my dad's impending retirement in the next couple years. They had a budget set aside, and were prepared for this. Family problems occurred, and a couple massive shifts and setbacks to add. Because of that, the search was put aside for awhile. Things were settled, and they found what they have been looking for! Just under 4 acres of land, about a 2.5 hour drive from our area. Mostly wooded with mixed hardwood and those row softwood trees. The land is in a huge private up-north subdivision type set up. There are 60 parcels of land over about 500 acres with 100 additional acres available to be used by only those who own land in the area. Private ATV trails all over the land, just for those who own land in here as well. There is electricity on the land, and septic and well system will be installed very shortly. They plan on purchasing a camper/trailer some time in the future. But we need to work on clearing the area first. Best part for myself is we have over 2000 feet of deeded frontage to the Menominee River that borders Wisconsin and Michigan. The river from our land is about a 15 minute walk, or 3 minute ATV ride. Boat landing is about 10 minutes down the road. On the woodworking subject, I was thinking about saving some parts of these trees that we are cutting down to make some nice log furniture for around the property. Should I cut them down and let them sit for a long period of time to dry, or work with them while green?