Open Club  ·  37 members

Vintage Tools

About This Club

For discussions related to the identification, restoration and use of antique hand planes and tools.

  1. What's new in this club
  2. I use an older #71 with just the 1/2" blade. I bought it used some time back, and never found a need for the fence option. I do however suggest that you get the other two blades that normally came with it when it was new. And make certain that the wing screw that locks the blade at height functions they way it should. I had to replace mine the first time I set it to depth, as it moved.
  3. So I’ve been slowly building my “vintage” hand plane collection (old Stanley’s) in addition to my “newer” set (LN and Veritas). Neither collection is expansive - works in progress. I have a (modern) LN router plane but want to add a vintage no 71 Stanley router plane. I’ve been watching on eBay but wanted to ask here if any type of features are truly better to have. For instance there is a type 10 available ( Without adjustable fence) and a type 11 (first type with adjustable fence). I’ve never used the fence on my “modern” router plane but.... is that feature or any other specific feature worth getting in a vintage router plane?
  4. I made the handle using a section of a dollar store magnifying glass. I secured it with a pin, so it can be removed. I know it's not the original style but it works very well.
  5. The wing was a butterfly shaped piece of metal held in with a pin. I had one but it disappeared . Good tool !
  6. I had no idea Disston once made this type of tool, but here it is, a new addition to my toolbox: It's a bit rusty but in good operating condition. The wing nut is missing so I will have to work something out to replace it. It is marked "pat oct 29 07", but I don't know how old it is.
  7. I see. The knob on my LN #3 is noticeably smaller than the one on my #4, same brand. That's why it looked oversized to me.
  8. Might just be the perspective of the photo. It's a little lighter in color than my other planes but it looks about the same size. IT could even be a replacement - and I can always make another one if it's an issue.
  9. Good find. I use my #3 a lot. Now that knob looks oversized, I don't think I'd feel comfortable with it.
  10. Good luck with yours - hope you find time for it soon. I'm mostly in the same camp - it's not why I buy them either, other than the "oldness" and period of the planes (which I find really cool). None of mine are "collectors", and IMO the more I use them the better they are. If I want a paper weight, I'll go in the yard and find a rock.
  11. Oh i was 1 number off on my numbers oopps. I was joking more than anything, none of my Stanly planes could be considered collectors it's not why i buy them or like them. I think they are just well made tools. Hope that it works out well for you. When i get some down time i'm excited to get my #3 up and running but i have a lot of stuff to get done and work is hitting the busy season.
  12. Haha, yeah. It's actually mostly a type 11 - the high knob came in at type 12 I believe.....but the cap is from a type 13 (or later). It definitely is a 'worker', not a collectable - and priced accordingly, so it is what it is. I am going to work with the stock blade for now and see how it goes.
  13. I'm so confused, the low knob screams pre type 10 but the lever iron is type 12 ... THE HORROR!!! I still need to tune up my #3 and buy a replacement blade for it. I know people like to use the Stanley ones but i just have sooo much better results from good modern steel.
  14. I just received this #3 I landed on eBay. It's in decent shape - a little ding on the handle that the seller cleverly avoided showing in the listing, but I intend on using this and not just displaying it so I don't care. Price was right. I think I'll like this size over a #4 for smaller pieces. It's pretty clean but I'll disassemble, touch up a few areas that have some slight rust, and maybe touch up the sides and bottom. The iron is sharp-ish but I'll do a complete setup of back and bevel before putting it to use.
  15. Has anyone ever restored/reconditioned the leather handle on an old Estwing claw hammer? i have one that the leather rings are getting loose and was wondering if there is a way to get them tightened and maybe condition the leather? Thanks
  16. Oh yea , I've got one of those. Just never heard them called that.
  17. This is one of the better ones I have found
  18. What are they ? What do they look like ?
  19. Sure Send me one, and I'll figure it out! I've been looking for a few, but I refuse to pay ebay pricing on them.
  20. Began grabbing these when I see them for sale. the most common issue is the wood handles are loose. anyone have any luck with a method to fix? thanks
  21. That's a dang nice type 10.
  22. Just picked this up off eBay. Stanley no 4 type 10. It's in good shape but I still plan on braking it down and cleaning up and tuning it.
  23. Glad it worked out! I just used a similar product called 'metal rescue'. From what I understand, these products don't eat away at the underlying metal, only the rust - unlike vinegar (an acid). Also they won't dissolve other metals like aluminum.
  24. I have both and it is not so much getting the brace, which is easy, but getting the bits. You can buy bits new with a limited range of diameters (with screw lead-ins) but vintage ones, with tapered square drives in good condition are difficult to obtain. Bent, chipped or worn out ones are the only ones I can find so far. Miller Falls or original Stanley's are a good buy but make sure you see them or get as much information about them before you buy. Some are missing hard to obtain springs in the chuck as they can fly out when you loosen them. You may get lucky and find a peach along with a set of good bits. Egg beaters are also good to have especially those with a decent gear ratio. Stanley still make a crap one (that unfortunately I have) that has a poor ratio and is good for regular round bits up to 3/16" (it has a 3 jaw chuck) but no good beyond that. I only use it now for drilling tiny pilot holes for #2 screws.