About This Club

A place to discuss Woodpeckers tools and One Time Tools.

  1. What's new in this club
  2. I'm impressed. With the sawhorse. It looks like the ones I make, except for the crossbrace being a board instead of Baltic Birch plywood, and the inside one is missing.
  3. LINK I mean, maybe it's just me, but isn't this just a common bevel gauge task? So they've connected two bevel gauges together here? Anyone see this as a "must have" and ordering one?
  4. Definitely! I do too most of the time. For some tasks I like the Jessem more though. Usually depends on the tool Im setting up and how far away from the blade/cutter I have to be to reference the level surface of the table.
  5. I use a 3" combo square I keep in my shop apron for this.
  6. LINK Another odd one. Good tool idea, but seriously for same price you can get the Jessem Tool Setting Gauge (LINK) which IMO is a much nicer solution. This just feels kinda cheezy for the price.
  7. A friend of mine picked up several white board carts at a gov't auction for $25. He gave me one and I repurposed it as a clamp cart. Nice casters and several white boards, too!
  8. It does seem a little absurd even for them. But then again it probably costs very little to design and prototype something.Then they just throw it out and see what happens. I like that they do crazy things because sometimes they really nail a need that you don't even know you had. Meanwhile, I can't imagine having the room to wheel around anything in my shop!
  9. I saw this this morning, first thing I did was check the calendar, wasn't April 1, so just shook my head.
  10. I don't have a great pic of it but here is a clamp rack I made many years ago when I first built my shop. It was a lot less than $800 but you are right the issue was I was always pushing the dang thing out of the way. I have since re purposed the casters and plywood and my clamps now hang on the wall
  11. LINK Well here's another interesting one. I can't imagine many people have space or need for an $800 clamp rack, let alone have thousands of dollars in parallel clamps, but should you find yourself in such a state of being, Woodpeckers' got ya covered! Well, for a limited time at least...
  12. LINK Looks like they updated their saw gauge design. Does look nicer, but for the price I cant imagine why anyone would go with their one trick pony over the Betterley Una-Gauge (LINK, LINK) for the same price! Had mine for years and have used it calibrate MANY different tools.
  13. LINK Now a permanent tool offering.
  14. I was mistaken about the angle being different with this one. I was assuming it was simply like the many similar, homemade versions of setting jigs you see for the Eclipse clones. I looked at the video. The reason this one does keep the angle constant, regardless of the cutter thickness, is the way the cutter fits into the guide. It keys off the cutter's back going under the guide, rather than sitting on top of the jig as it does in the Eclipse types. That's actually a good design for that reason. That's a MKII in the 20 degree jig in my picture. We keep the cambered roller on it all the time, but really the only time it gets used is when we are off on a small job, and use oil stones. The MKII works great for my helpers to be able to use micro-bevels, and the only time we use micro-bevels is when we're using oil stones, just because they cut so much slower than our waterstones. We use full bevel when using water stones. I can see where the fumbly thing that mounts to the MKII would be better if the straight roller is used, and the whole thing needs to be set up for square, but I eliminated that as a possible problem for my helpers. Since the cambered roller stays on it all the time, it's much faster not to have to bother with mounting the thing on the front of the MKII. Other than price, the one thing that would keep me from buying this is no provision for cambered edges.
  15. The design of this and the Veritas mkii will give the same angle regardless of iron/chisel thickness. I have used guides similar to Tom’s (shop made and the original veritas guide) and personally can’t stand them. The shop made ones like Tom’s are much better than the old veritas one, but I still much prefer the veritas mkii. Can’t imagine forking out the cash for the WP over the veritas, but its does have a nice design.
  16. Here's my angle setting jigs. I stuck these together one morning, intending on making some good ones out of Corian later, but we've been still using these for several years now. The trouble with ones like that Woodpecker one, or the many homemade ones that use the same method, is that the angle is not the same when the cutter (iron, or chisel) is a different thickness-edited to add: I was mistaken about this, and explained in my next post in this thread, thanks to JohnG for calling attention to it. What determines the angle is the distance from the cutting edge to the contact point of the wheel. That changes with the cutter thickness, but is plenty close enough if you are using only one jig. I don't see any excitement with spending a bunch of money to get close, whether it matters, or not. If I tell someone I'm using a 20 degree bevel, it's 20 degrees. These are always exact, regardless of either thickness of cutter, or type of guide, including even the MKII. Lee Valley sells a setting jig for $45 that will do the same, but you have to fumble with it to get to the angle you want. Mine are easy for anyone to use, and always repeat the exact same angle. We couldn't do full bevel sharpening with jigs, and always return to the exact same angle without them. The first picture below shows checking a plane iron, that we didn't know what the bevel angle was, by the 20 degree jig. I would never sharpen a 1/4" chisel with that red Record guide, but it's just used as an example to show that it works with anything. You just stick the blade all the way in, slide any jig in place until it stops, tighten, and you'll always get the exact same angle. I've even had some of my clients (who normally never do any such manual work) use them, with my sharpening system, and they are always amazed that it's so easy to get something so sharp.
  17. The LN one is leaps and bounds ahead of the WP one. You can attach plates to sharpen short irons as well as skew irons. Also SS > Aluminum. The amazon one does suck, sucks alot, but it works good enough for the once every 3 years when i need to reset an angle on a plane iron.
  18. x2 for the TSO I use mine quite often and love it
  19. Come over some time and compare this to my Lie Nielsen guide and you'll see the difference immediately. Now if your good with free handing so be it but I suspect the new WP guide will be closer to the LN then the amazon one.
  20. Angles up to 12-13" wide i can get with a miter gauge on the table saw. Beyond that i feel that marking out and sawing to the line is more accurate. Also the way i work exact angles isn't necessary. If i needed 2 45 degree miters to make a 90 degree corner I'd get close have the parts over sized and then trim the critical edge square after the fact. if it's 47 and 43 who cares no one is going to measure it and tell me my miter is slightly off.
  21. Good points guys. I guess Id have to think about how often I actually make angled cuts in sheet goods that were shorter in length to justify something like this. Hmmmm...
  22. This. I used my TSO to trim the edges on my dining table with the leaves in and everything came out dead nuts square couldn't be happier with the TSO. Most of the time when I am using my track saw it is like Drew mentions above but when I need it to square up something having the TSO attached to the track is a lot faster and less fiddly then a square and the track.
  23. Have seen a shop made angle fixture also maybe it was even Tom here on the forum that had one, but I think it was in some sharpening video I saw.
  24. Can't help but think that one could save them selves a lot of money by just using the guide this product was designed off of? https://www.amazon.com/Robert-Larson-800-1800-Honing-Guide/dp/B000CFNCKS Or practice free hand sharpening 99.999% of the time the angle doesn't matter.
  25. Isn't the big benefit of a track saw being able to mark out points and connect them with the cutting edge of the track? I'd just do the math on the angle, make to marks and throw the track down. The benefit of this is over longer distances your accuracy increases where as with something like this over longer distances inaccuracy gets exaggerated.
  26. LINK Okay they might have me with this one. The Festool angle guide is junk and Ive never been a fan of the TSO 90 degree product. This seems to be the best solution so far. What do you guys think?