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  1. Today
  2. Still laying in the hospital. My blood pressure drops whenever we try to walk and I get rather light headed. That's just funny.
  3. If I did this it would be a sure way to guarantee that I would end up dropping a chisel or other sharp, pointed object.
  4. Wish i could do that. I beat my ankles too much and standing without shoes causes me a lot of pain.
  5. I am old and retired, and find the best thing is to have "good shoes" on . K Cooper mentions being barefoot alot , I find my back will start screaming . Even slippers is a problem . I could do it years ago , not now .
  6. I have 30” x 60” pads, once made by Craftsman and sold at Sears, at my 3 main work stations. The rest is concrete and 90% of my work is done bare footed. Not a good thing as my wife says my feet feel like sand paper. May have to start wearing socks to bed?
  7. Looking darn good Chip, aside from that one little hickie!
  8. Thé partitions are alder and sapele, just jointed and glued Some 3/4” material together. Ran them through the “real” bandsaw to resaw a little thicker than the 1/4” final thickness, then ran it through the planer to the finished thickness of 1/4”. You can see the feet in the upper left corner of this picture. They’re color-coded, and will be mitered and splined for final assembly, which I’ll do when I’m closer to needing them. The planer took a chunk out of the end of one board. That’s by not paying attention to grain direction, which is more important on thin stuff than any other time.
  9. I think B1rdhunter was talking about killing the two tree’s not the Houston Boy and whoever that guy is in the pic with the Houston Boy.
  10. Started on the front feet as well. Decided to cut them out then plane them from 3/4” to 5/8” which worked out ok although I wasn’t sure it would. A 7/8” Forstner and my small Grizzly bandsaw (which is ok for this kind of work but is NOT a good bandsaw) cut them out. I’ll smooth the curves on my oscillator later on.
  11. Made a little progress today. For a box, this thing sure has a lot of pieces! i need a 3/16” router bit but don’t have one. Tomorrow I have to use a 1/8” and just make two passes. the jig worked perfectly ... after I waxed it, which I did t figure out till the last groove *shrug*
  12. Thanks. I was thinking the same thing.
  13. B1rdhunter, you still on the good pain medicine?
  14. This sounds like it would take a lot of your time or money in equipment. To me it is pretty simple 1) If you provided a sample, and/or very detailed explanation of what you wanted it to look like, and they didn't follow make them redo at their cost, if they won't don't pay them or find a new supplier. 2) if you didn't provide a sample or weren't specific, then pay them to do. You may need to redo the deal for future orders.
  15. Most of these suggestions will smooth the face of the end grain cut. If easing or deburring the edges of that cut are what you need, I'd suggest a tool like this:
  16. Yesterday
  17. If my memory serves me, we measured that at about waist high at 14 feet around.
  18. Turned out nice if you ever need help with something let me know I work for Joe Munson studios in kansas city....
  19. And if you were to use threaded rod instead of clamps the you could design it to pass through a drum sander.
  20. Ronn W

    Scratch marks

    Thank you. The finishing class gave me some information. But the class covered so many materials and methods that it did not delvee deep enough into any of them. Since the class I have been researching, practicing and actually took one local shellac class. I think that I have a pretty good handle on the process now. The only part of french polishing that I have not done is the first step using pumice to fill in the grain. Does not work well with the burl veneer. Have fun playing with the veneer.
  21. If what you're wanting to do is sand down rough end grain on the blocks, here is what I would do: Get a couple of pieces of hardwood 3/4" thick x 2" wide x say, 18" long. Glue a piece of the rubber you use for your stamps to one of the 3/4" faces of each piece of hardwood. Line up a bunch of same-dimensional wood blocks, on end, on a flat surface. Place one piece of hardwood, rubber side in, on either side of the blocks. Use a couple of c-clamps to squeeze the blocks between the hardwood pieces. Sand with a random orbit sander. Flip over and repeat on the other side. You can rest the blocks on a piece of lumber that will support the blocks, but leave clearance for the clamps when you flip. You'd have to experiment to see just how many blocks you could hold securely at one time. If you want to get fancy, you could put a slight arc on the rubber side of the hardwood pieces to create cauls, which might let you process more blocks at one time. It probably would not be too hard to make a dedicated clamping jig that would cut down on the fiddling around with the cauls.
  22. I'm sure they would move to let you at the tree.
  23. I had some low pile carpet in my previous shop as well and it's not bad at all. I could sweep it and hitting it with a shop vac made it look nice. The stick down tile stuff would be nice for spills ect. Though rubber flooring is probably the way to go.
  24. That is a beauty. Don't think I could kill either one of those just to get the lumber. But I can walk down the hill and sit under it.
  25. Possibly, but that would most likely take longer than a quick sanding operation. This is a good point and I don't know where the OP is located, but in my city they are pretty specific when issuing business licenses on whether your business will produce any dust or fumes in the process.
  26. I wonder if you could use a large tumbler to ease the edges in batches. With a shape like that, it’s going to be somewhat labor intensive to sand all the edges manually, especially since the other edges have a profile cut into them.
  27. So the two sides that are rough are end grain?
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