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  2. He's a great woodworker. He has a lot of excellent tutorials in his website (https://www.inthewoodshop.com/). It would be nice to see the "mentor" badge under his name on these forums.
  3. Today
  4. Here are some closeups of the tracks. I’m not sure if it helps get an idea of what’s going on. You can definitely see two different widths on the splinter guards, though, right?
  5. Yes to the above. A top bearing, upcut spiral will have less tear out on the bottom & the template will help to minimize it on the top. The spiral will give a better cut than a straight cut bit.
  6. Coop so sorry for you and your family. So young and such a young marriage. I can't even begin to imagine what you're all going through. You know this community is here to help if there's anything we can do. Good luck taking care of your son.
  7. Coop my thoughts and prayers are with your family.
  8. I like Whiteside router bits and and prefer spiral with top and bottom bearings. If I had to choose I would probably choose a spiral top bearing bit.
  9. Sorry to hear that, Coop. My prayers are with you and your family.
  10. So sad Coop, know that our prayers are with you and your family
  11. I agree with the above and will also add don't give up. Once you get stuff dialed in with trial and error planes are awesome.
  12. Hi everybody! I'm wanting to make some hardboard templates to cut out multiple large parts using meranti marine plywood (ranging from 1/4" to 3/4"). Once my templates are complete, do you have any recommendations on router bits to trim my plywood parts to the final shape? I'm assuming a spiral bit? Should the bearing be on the top or bottle of the bit? Thanks!
  13. That's awful coop. So young.
  14. No words. Ken. Just be there for him, and I know you will be.
  15. What I see does appear as if some clear finish or other contaminant was on the wood before your other coats were applied. Before you apply new finish, try wiping it down with mineral spirits, perhaps followed by acetone, to ensure a clean surface.
  16. Aw, Coop - that is terrible to hear. I pray your entire family has the strength to carry on.
  17. I saw that too Coop and was thinking the very exact thing you were thinking. Was thrilled to see they featured his work, well deserved.
  18. I hate it for him and you, don't let him falter and do what you do best. Help.
  19. Here's another piece of advise. If you want those panels on the floor to be straight. Sticker them. Or they will become useless when you try to put together your dresser. You appear to be in a rush to build this. It seems that may be the reason you don't want to attempt M/T. But if you don't do it right now, when will you take the time to do it right. @Chet.....
  20. I'm finishing a walnut and cherry bench and it looks fantastic everywhere except the top of the bench. On the top, there are a number of lighter areas - like maybe I sanded through? Finishing schedule was: Light coat of zinsser bullseye lacquer on the dovetails and through tenons to prevent glue stick during the assembly/glue up 2 coats crystallac grain/pore filler a light coat of tung oil 2 coats of zinsser bullseye lacquer arm-r-seal - so far two coats of gloss (planning on finishing with a coat of satin). I originally thought the lig
  21. That has to be devastating.
  22. We helped our son make burial arrangements for his bride of two months, 37 yo beautiful lady. That’s a rough row to hoe. Don’t mean to be a downer, but just saying.
  23. If length allows, you will loose some with the length of the tenons, I would recommend using mortise and tenons in lieu of dowels. With all due respect, I would not consider the lag bolts. For fine or finer Woodworking, you need to start some where and this could be the start. If you need advise on mortise and tenons, just ask here. We all have opinions.
  24. Good for Derek! His work deserves the exposure, for sure.
  25. @Meatwad, I have successfully taken full length, whispy-thin shavings from red oak, using a $9 'Windsor 33' plane from Harbor Freight. It just takes some experimentation to get your setup and your technique adjusted. If the plane blade can shave your arm, it should shave wood. So, look closely at the plane bodies with the cutters removed. Are the 'frogs' ground flat and adjusted to correctly support the cutting edge from beneath? Are they square to the mouth of the plane? Are the soles flat? I like to run the blade forward so it is clearly visible when sighting down the sole. Use t
  26. That's awesome congrats Derek!!
  27. It appears to me that the blade is not sharp. Have you flattened the back of that blade? I'd suggest watching a couple YouTube video's on sharpening I learned from Rob Cosman on you tube. Here are a couple of pics I just took planing red oak with a blade that's been sharpened but is not right off the stones either. The plane you have will do the same thing so don't give up
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