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  2. It’s not frequency, that’s a rate. It’s pressure. Noise cancellation negates pressure variation. Hearing loss is caused when cillia become overstimulated rapidly, and the body cannot adjust fast enough. Your ear can handle a variety of pressures. Evening out the variation should not ever cause damage.
  3. Today
  4. I read something a while ago about that here: https://toolguyd.com/noise-cancellation-headphones-vs-hearing-protection-earmuffs/ I haven't done any research into the Comply tips but it seems like they're supposed to protect against sound. I'm not sure if there's any ratings on them to prove that though.
  5. I ended up filling in the gaps with spray foam and haven't had any issues. I think TpT life was right that it was left intentionally to reduce noise transmission.
  6. I am picking up a Job Site saw stop, i wish they would make one for their job site saw too
  7. I have thought about this, but I am not 100% sure if noise canceling actually protects ears? Does anyone know for sure? normal noise protection works by blocking out outside noise through not letting into your ear channel, but NC headphones the noise will get in but they will send a silent frequency to counter that noise so it's heavily reduced, so it does work great but in terms of actually protecting your ears I would be curious if it is the same as normal hearing protection.
  8. Thanks for sharing @gee-dub
  9. Thanks for the advice in this thread. There is a similar problem in my house now I don’t know how to solve it myself.
  10. And from your first pic, it makes the floating top even that much more suspenseful, no pun intended.
  11. Good catch Coop yes there is, not much of one I used a 1/4” shank panel raising bit I had to put a small bevel on it, the top is just shy of 7/8” to start and I thought the bevel would lighten up the look a bit
  12. I’ve gotta ask. So you did give Goodwill a working saw as opposed to a non working one, right?
  13. Dave, is there any bevel on the tabletop?
  14. Beautiful piece, Dave! The front grain flow is a really nice touch. I've used that cut-out method before, and it works well. If the missing kerf will stand out against very distinct grain (oak, anyone?), then a 7.25" circular saw blade in the TS can reduce the kerf to nearly 1/16".
  15. Yesterday
  16. Thanks to Redbaran and all other contributors: I also have this saw and it has seen occasional use since buying it around 2012. I also had the lights/laser, but no spinning blade issue and had it ready to go to Goodwill, but thought, I'll see if I can get it to work one last time. I disassembled the clam shell, tested continuity, and had decided the motor must be seized.... Then I found this post and after "flicking" trigger and applying lateral pressure to it, she started right up with gusto. Much obliged!
  17. The desires of the client often get in the way of aesthetics. Very nicley done and very attractive. BTW, when I use bottom drawer glides and use 2 per drawer - makes the drawers very stable.
  18. Thanks @Coopand @Chet I like it but most of all the wife likes it I started with a piece of walnut almost 1 3/4” thick Coop and it finished to 1 1/2” square legs, I wish it would have been a little thicker piece but it’s what I had on hand, I also thought the apron/ drawers could have been less than what they are but I wanted the drawers to be big enough to hold my wife’s stuff
  19. That is some real impressive work Dave. Perfect proportions if you ask me and Yea, that cross beam looks like a good place to rest your muddy boots.
  20. Absolutely beautiful, Dave. I too like the proportions as well as that little bit of sap wood across the bottom front and the continuous grain. How wide are your legs?
  21. thanks Drew, the whole front apron/drawers were one piece of wood that had that nice grain in it, marked the board in several spots vertical so i would be sure to match them up correctly then ripped the top and bottom rails, top is 1" and bottom was 1 1/2", cut the center divider out its 1 1/2" wide, then used stops to cut out the drawers and end pieces, its close enough for a town this big, used the TS for the cuts so there is an 1/8" missing but not enough to notice, i will take your advice and try under mount next time, never done them before and it would have looked better if i had used them on this project and yeah that cross beam is a great spot to rest your feet and adds a good bit of strength to the piece, I've had friends that slowed down and it didn't turn out well for them so i think i'll just take a day off before starting the next project
  22. Comments: The front gran match is well executed and looks great. A non-woodworker may not be able to pointedly pick it out but will subconsciously appreciate the aesthetics achieved. I think the proportions are nice and really like the cross beam at the back. I utilize features like that as a foot rest and it increases comfort when sitting at a desk. Question: How did you manage to get the drawer front and aprons to grain match so effectively? Did you cut the drawers out? Is the front all 1 piece or did you rip the center out and glue the top and bottom back on? Criticism: Why hasn't this been delivered to my house already? Also slow down turbo your threatening my reputation.... . Jokes aside have you considered using under mount slides? The drawer material looks beautiful and the joinery is executed well it seems a shame to put side mount guides on. Your work is excellent i think it'd be worth the minimal cost increase.
  23. This table will end up in a spare bedroom to hold the desktop computer and printer, the top is 20 X 40 and it stands 32 high, all M&T joints pegged with walnut dowels, the top "floats" 3/8" up from the legs, zebra wood pulls that are screwed on and the heads covered with 3/8" square walnut pegs and the whole thing finished with 2 coats of shellac then 3 coats of ARS satin, i am particularly pleased with the grain match across the front apron/drawers, i think that came out real nice although non woodworkers would not notice, should have done a journal on this one but things in the shop are moving pretty fast and i had to knock this one out quick to get on to other projects. thanks for looking and as usual comments, questions and criticism are always welcome.
  24. A quick pass with a block plane is what I usually do. By the time finish sanding is done, it's slightly softened. I like the look of a very slight chamfer.
  25. Last week
  26. I have an old Dewalt 12" sliding miter saw and have been looking for a good replacement. Pretty fair deal here. Home Depot:
  27. Just catching up on this. Those are some really nice looking boxes. This came just in time. I am remaking a music box for my brother and his wife. The movement is what is important to them, the box will be completely new. I want to use stop hinges for the lid but the only ones I had ever seen were the ones from Brusso. I have used those a couple of times and like them but they would be to chunky for this project. The ones you used here will be perfect.
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