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  2. Not to be a troll, but why would you use a router guide bushing in a table? A guide bushing is used most often to route inside a template from above. A router bit with a bearing seems to be the way to go when routing from underneath on a table. Am I missing something?
  3. Yesterday
  4. In 1/4" blades, I have used both the 6 you and the 4 you. I find that on 3/4" and thicker, I prefer the 4 toi. On thinner stock, the 6 works better.
  5. Mineral oil is usually best for that type of finish. Just clean and redo when the wood gets pale.
  6. I have a set of the brass bushings from HF that Mick mentioned. They are actually quite good, but do not come with any sort of insert, so you need one designed to accept the PC style bushings.
  7. ... and don't use a film finish at all. Nothing, or just a simple oil finish that soaks in.
  8. Might want to char the surface a bit, leaves it more resistant to damage.
  9. Hi. I am in the process of making some wooden trivets for sitting hot casseroles on and wondered what I can use so that the heat doesn't peel or crack the finish? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks. johnthomas418
  10. There's nothing about the SS router table itself that would restrict using a guide bushing. The inserts determine if they're compatible. I have a set of Jessem (I believe) inserts and one of them does take PC bushings. FWIW, I saw a similar set to the one shown above at Harbor Freight the other day for $15.
  11. Orientation and fastening schedule matter. It’s the whole compression vs tension. Take bare studs and sheet one side with even the 1/4” drywall and things will stiffen some. Honestly I think the paper is the majority of the strength, but I know gypsum board matters. This county used to approve ply at the corners and blue foam every where else on the exterior. With vinyl siding offering almost nothing, a good deal of shear stress was transferred to drywall as corner sheets only do so much.
  12. Even with drywall? I did not know that. The 1/2" lightweight drywall that's so common today is hardly stronger than cardboard.
  13. Haha! Been there and that's not much of an exageration.
  14. Thanks! I have no idea how my searches didn't come up with this product. I should have figured Woodcraft would carry it. Thanks!
  15. Probably the same people who run around North America babbling about 110 and 220 volts . Fi on them I say. Seriously, I agree with TPT Life. It's the fence side of the cutter that will see the most use and drive the need for sharpening. So the best measure is lineal/linear feet. Unless, of course, the wood is ipe, in which case it would be linear inches, or maybe mm.
  16. Looks like SS offers a set with a special phenolic insert. https://www.woodcraft.com/products/9-pc-brass-precision-template-guide-set?gclid=Cj0KCQiAwf39BRCCARIsALXWETywEM5BZqNQGRYRBJyKZRlLMBtO1ltcMkpAE7x9_ryngvEZDQpNhBcaAiNWEALw_wcB#
  17. Welcome! I can't answer your question but there are a couple folks on here with the SS router table that may be able to. @Mick S comes to mind.
  18. I saw that show last night on my local PBS and thought of you.
  19. I really like the colors...! Great job Chet
  20. Stagger butts if the sheet is any part of the shear calculation. If not, do whatever you want.
  21. It is square feet, clearly. Except when planning thicker material it is more work because of the weight to be handled. But still square feet is the answer. But i never start with a board rough on 2 sides and never a complete board. I start by cutting the required pieces slightly bigger still in rough. Next I true one face on the jointer. Now the wood is ready for the planer. It has a flat surface for the planer bed so when planed it is equal to the jointed side. The more perfect that I can dress the wood the easier it is to complete the project. To me, it is like building a foundation fo
  22. I stagger all butt joints, but with Tom's method, I don't think it would be of any benefit.
  23. Hickory does a number on any balde as well.
  24. Wish there was a better gauge as I can’t afford curly hard maple
  25. Run a board of curly hard maple and that should be a good gauge.... if it has more tearout than you expect it's time to change?
  26. Too much thinking hurts my head, when it stops cutting good I change the blades, but I would like to know how many hours I’ve run it
  27. I do for some reason or another, not sure why? Just seams like the right thing to do. It sure makes for more difficult taping and floating.
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