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  2. Knotty pine tung and grove question

    just curious, why bevel, rather than (say) half lap?
  3. Today
  4. What could cause these drops in floor refinish job?

    The above responses were perfect.
  5. Daughter's bookshelf with drawers

    So.... I tried to glue the top dovetails tonight. It was a complete failure. I used Old Brown glue, and I don't think it was hot enough. It gelled up into a sticky mess while I was trying to apply it. I attempted to close the joint anyway, but it wouldn't seat the last 1/32" because of the glue. I ended up knocking it apart and scraping all the glue out of the joint. I think I'll try again in a day or two. That was not fun. Does anyone else use this stuff? I was going to use it because it's supposed to slide better for the sliding dovetails, but right now I'm not sure about it at all.
  6. What could cause these drops in floor refinish job?

    Thanks for the quick reply guys... wow... so what i thought was a problem with the refinishing is actually something ... coveted. Glad i posted here before getting upset with the contractor. To me it just looked like smears in the staining application due to human error or something. I saw a few sander marks here and there and thought this was possibly due to that. Anyway, glad i found this forum... found nothing about this topic on google.
  7. What could cause these drops in floor refinish job?

    If I'm understanding what you're referring to, those markings are ray fleck. It's a characteristic of the wood that shows up in quarter sawn lumber. Oak, particularly white oak is rich in ray fleck, and indeed, that's what makes it so attractive. Your "allegedly oak" floor is most definitely oak, probably red oak, judging by the openness of the pores
  8. What could cause these drops in floor refinish job?

    The grain on those boards is quartersawn. They call that " ray fleck " it's more common in white oak. Sometimes white oak gets mixed in with red oak, especially the bundles they sell to builders. They charge more for wood purposely cut that way.
  9. An adequate sander

    I used Klingspor for many years. Bought in quantity and they shipped it to me. There are different "weight " paper backing discs, I was getting "J weight " I was fairly happy using it with a Bosch ROS. I was wearing out a Bosch in 3-4 years. Then I got a deal on a ETS 150 when a Festool salesman stopped by. Festool discs were pricey but they did a better job and lasted longer. I did a comparison and decided the better results and longer life made the Festool abrasives worth the price. That ETS 150 sander is about 10 years old and still going strong ! Klingspor sanding mop/flap wheels I still use. Klingspor makes the abrasive rolls for SuperMax drum sanders. 3M makes some great abrasives but the difficulty in finding a reliable source at a decent price is a barrier. They basically refuse to discount anything below a full case of one grit.
  10. Hey there. So I just bought a house and had the floors done prior to moving. They looked great when I first got to the house and paid the contractor after his final visit. But the more I look at certain boards the more I’m noticing peculiarities. I can deal with a sander mark here and there, but what on earth are these drop/smear/zebra marks seen in the pics ? (Shown with and without flash to highlight appearance in various lighting). They claim it is due to my Wood’s age, but i think it seem more like a rushed job. It’s only on a few boards scattered randomly... and always isolated to single boards... never bleeds over to a neighboring board...but it seems odd. House was built in 56 if that matters. All wood is allegedly oak. Are certain imperfections expected in refinishing jobs? Thanks for any input!
  11. An adequate sander

    I did purchase from the most "local" woodworking-oriented store for my area, so I assume the disks were intended for wood. But they may well have been from the bottom end of the line.
  12. Yesterday
  13. Minwax oil modified polyurethane vs GF Enduro var

    Thanks Ace. This is for my four year old daughter's room, so I'm assuming it's going to have a bit of a hard life. On the other hand, the other shelves I did have paint topped with polycrylic, and they've been fine. I may wait on Drew's report and buy the Minwax if it seems decent. The Minwax was about 1/3 the price if I buy a gallon, or around 1/2 the price if I buy a quart.
  14. Jet/Powermatic sale in May...

    Wow. And I just bought my Jet Bandsaw. I used a 20% off HD certificate so I guess I did OK. Would be cool if it was 15% off plus 20% off.
  15. Drawing up and marking out

    I am a "make a drawing complete with dimensions" kind of guy. Tape the drawing to the wall and keep a red pencil handy for when the actual dimensions change as the proejct progresses. I use a cadd program and find that I can expolore various options quickly.
  16. Minwax oil modified polyurethane vs GF Enduro var

    If the bookcase is more of a "display" and not receiving a lot of use such as dragging books in and out. I would say to look at a water based lacquer from General Finishes, however it has no amber. If this piece is going to get heavy use, suck it up and rock on with the Enduro-Var, it's tough stuff and takes a beating. Not sure what the price of the MW Mod is or its durability? If the piece is going to get light use -- I say try the MW Mod. -Ace-
  17. Shop Storage Shed

    I expect the AC2 stuff that i bought will last 20-30 years just long enough for me to retire to tear the shed down and rebuild it I took last Friday off of work with the hopes to get some work done on the shed. There was still too much snow and the ground was frozen so i did as much prep work as i could with out potentially hurting myself. It started with a lot of standing around and enjoying the first really nice day of spring. I needed to trim back a fir tree that was encroaching on the space i wanted the shed to sit. I didn't want to damage the tree too much so I cut back branches only as far as i needed them to go. I'm not an arborist so i don't know if leaving half a branch with some needles(leaves?) is a good thing or not. As i was standing there my neighbor stepped outside his shop, we got to talking about the leaning tree above. Both of us noted that if I had to take it down after the shed was built it would be difficult and probably costly. So he walked into his shop grabbed a chain saw and have it down and chopped up in about an hour. Tuns out it was a box elder tree so i had him save some 2-3' segments of the trunk that i might do something with some day. It had a crotch that had some staining on it from some damage so there could be something cool inside. I moved on to cutting the timbers for the base. I am making the shed a perfect 12x16 so that it's easy to sheet the outside to minimize plywood cutting or so i hope at least. I cut half laps in the timbers so i can glue and nail them together after i get the base dug and rock placed. This reminded me how useful circular saws are. I was shoveling some of the snow on the driveway to accelerate the melting. I'm glad i did the front yard has no piles and is snow free now. Next for some reason I'm telling my self was necessary, i precut all the studs i needed to build the walls and a couple extra just in case. Did this with my fancy new TSC 55 with the boards all laid out. Made quick work of cutting 50 studs to length. I'm really impressed with the battery powered saw. It seemed that it cut through material better than my corded porter cable saw, that's not even considering that the PC saw blade had fewer teeth and was thinner kerf. Also the dust collection bag works exceptionally almost to a point of fault. After cutting about 20 boards I'd have to empty the bag because it was full I needed to cut a notch in 22 of the studs. I'm putting ceiling joists at 8' to give the attic storage a bit more space. Instead of building an 18" stubby wall above it i decided to do balloon framing with a ribbon ledger set in a notch. Again TSC 55 impressed me here. I cut 50 studs to length and notched out 22 studs and the batteries still had half a charge left. Here every other pass I'd have to empty the bag. Also in the picture blow i had JUST finished a cut so you can see how much dust the saw without a vac left behind.
  18. Chest of Drawers

    As always, a very nice presentation. And as always, your efforts at producing these videos is very much appreciated.
  19. Vacupress for veneer

    I decided to bite the bullet and bought a vacuum pump and bag from Vacupress. I chose the smaller (1.3 CFM pump) and their 49" sq 30 mil vinyl bag. Came in 2 boxes along with the hose and all the necessary fittings. Instructions for use and setup are well written. Their system requires a grooved platten to ensure the air is evacuated because the hose attaches to the bottom of the bag through a hole in the platten. While I was at it I made a large platten (38 x 48) which is quite heavy and a 24 x 36 platten whicih will be fine for smaller projects - both out of 3/4" melamine. Pump has both continuous and auto cyle modes ( Use auto cycle with the vacuum bag). In the pics, I was only using about half the volume of the bag and it took about a minute to come up to pressure. The pump pressure and auto cylcle pressure setting are adjustable. Mine cycles, right now, between 22" and 24" Hg. BTW, I almost missed it. The bag comes with a small patch kit just in case and copule fo extra fittings so you can have more than platten ready to go. There are cheaper ways to go but this system works great and I am happy with it. I have attached a few pics of my first glue-up. Did both sides at the same time.
  20. Panel glue up without clamps

    Interesting i just did this for the first time yesterday. I am making a bird feeder and the panels were thin and small. It worked so well I'll try it on larger panels going forward. I also like the blue tape method to do miters for picture frames. I usually supplement with clamps but the blue tape keeps things in place until i can get the band clamp secured and tightened. Dare i say though that blue tap costs can add up over time and eventually might cost more than clamps we're talking like 50 year investment here .
  21. Jet/Powermatic sale in May...

    Ain't nothin wrong with that, I'm the same way. A lot of this stuff holds it's value reasonably well espically if you take care of it. Holding it's value doesn't mean much if you never sell it but it makes it easier to stomach buying.
  22. Jet/Powermatic sale in May...

    Yeah. And I'm kind of OCD with my equipment. I prefer to buy new and know how it's been treated. Unless I can get a really good deal.
  23. Panel glue up without clamps

    I have used this technique before but on panels that were smaller then yours appear to be. Well jointed edges is the trick.
  24. I have Bessey parallel clamps, however I prefer to rely on blue tape when glueing up panels. It is clear to me that one does not need clamps applying great pressure to create flat panels with tight joints. I am in the process of building an apothecary chest. This one is a little different in that it will have a curved front with curved drawer fronts. There are 24 drawers in all, and these are arranged in 4 vertical rows (by 6 horizontal rows). The chest requires three vertical dividers. The carcase and drawer fronts are Black Walnut. The dividers are made predominantly from Merbau, a hardwood, and faced with Black Walnut. The Merbau is secondary wood and will not be seen with the drawers inserted. The boards were thicknessed and jointed with machines. They are slightly oversize and will be taken to final dimension with hand planes. This is a panel-to-be ... Stretch blue tape across one side to pull the boards tightly together ... Run blue tape along the joins ... we do not want glue escaping ... Flip the panel over and insert glue into an open join ... Do this with all the joins, and then pull the lot together with tape. Wipe the excess glue off with a wet rag ... Add a caul .. ... and leave to dry ... The result is very flat panels, ready for planing before being cut down and inserted into dados ... Regards from Perth Derek
  25. Minwax oil modified polyurethane vs GF Enduro var

    No problem, just figured I'd clarify. The geography can be both good and bad - if there is going to be a store in the area, it's usually within a half hour drive. If it's further away, then it's probably in Quebec or Ontario. Yes, I heard about it, although I didn't see it. Predictably, our local news and politicians are all worked up over it. The historical aspect of the explosion is interesting (and terrible, as you noted), since it shaped how the city developed, with so many buildings being destroyed.
  26. Minwax oil modified polyurethane vs GF Enduro var

    My apologies, i remembered you saying a few times that you have limited stores and shops near you, i jumped to a conclusion that you lived in a more rural area. I just watched super troopers 2 and did research on the halifax explosion, random comment but i can understand how people aren't happy with rob lowe over that whole skit on Jimmy Kimmel he seemed a bit tactless. I don't know if you heard about that. The 1917 explosion is an interesting, and terrible event.
  27. Minwax oil modified polyurethane vs GF Enduro var

    I'm not in a rural area, exactly - I'm right in Halifax, which is roughly 400,000 people, but there's nothing else of comparable size until you get into Quebec, about 1000 km (600 miles) away. When I was shopping for tools, there are some stores that aren't here and don't bother because there aren't many people in the region. Some of the other Canadians in the forum live in Ontario or Alberta, where there's considerably more choice. I'm also nowhere near the border (5 hours to Maine) so that's not a great option either. That would be great, thanks. I doubt I'll be finishing for another two weeks or so, since I still need to glue up the project and build the drawers. I'll be interested to hear how it sprays compared to the General Finishes products you've used.
  28. Knotty pine tung and grove question

    Thanks for the input fellows! Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
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