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  2. I have an alternate suggestion. This is from an uninformed perspective. In viewing images of queen Anne pieces the tops appear to be solid wood with the profile cut into the edge. The top appears to be veneered giving the look of a mitered frame but not actually enclosing the top in a frame. I see your molding appears to go above the top surface. A rabbet may work and apply the frame like you would a breadboard end with pegged tenons? This could leave the sides able to expand and contract within the frame. Or make the top a frame and panel and cut a tongue that would interface with a groove on the frame. The tongue would be the upper portion of the top such that a gap is not produced. The other observation is to do a captured panel. providing a small gap surrounding the panel for expansion and contraction. Part of me thinks they didn't do anything to consider wood movement based on the comments on this piece. https://www.invaluable.com/auction-lot/queen-anne-cherrywood-tea-table-new-england-lat-8754abb90f
  3. The wood shrinkage calculator at WoodWeb says that species should shrink or expand by 1/16" with a 6% change in MC. I think "Old-Timers" would have simply nailed the molding on, and trusted the flexibility of the nailed joint to keep the panel from doing any real damage. And nails can be replaced as needed.
  4. Today
  5. Framing solid wood is always a cautionary tale. As the panel gets wider the concern increases. It looks like you are going for a dish effect (outer edge taller than the table surface). Is the 26" the long grain direction? I avoid framing solid panels but, even in my breadboards I use something like your option #2. I attach the front to keep that look constant throughout the seasons and allow the rear to move. Minnesota has actual seasons so I imagine you get decent humidity swings. Using option #2 you could see gaps of up to 1/8" at the rear miter joint. If this will pass muster I would go that way. For more peace of mind I would go with your #3 or simply profile the edge. Both make a significant change to the look of the piece. JMHO ;-)
  6. Coop

    Mahogany movment

    I think the #3 option has an interesting look and would be a problem solver.
  7. I am bout to glue up the top for a 26" x 12" table. I am using African Mahogany purchase from cabinet shop (good stuff) The end grain on a board laid flat on the workbench is straight upa nd down (quarter sawn or may be even rift cut. I was planing to border the top with a shaped moulding similar to what one would see around the edges of a Queen Anne tes table. (mitered at the corners) Then it occured to me that I could have movement problems witht he mouldings at the ends of the table. I think I have 3 options. 1. Just build it and and hope that 12" of rift cut mahogany won't move enough to noticably cause problem at the miters. It is my understanding that this Species is quite stable to begin with and rift cut is even better. 2. Glue the front 3" of the moulding on the ends and pin nail near the back corners to allow movement and let the back miters move. 3. Design the moulding so that there is an intentional 1" or so gap in the moulding in the middle of the 12" long moulding on each end of the table. See sketch. How would you do it?
  8. I did a sashay this morning and it happened to be my jointer. Caused me to laugh and think about this. I am sure that a very high percentage of woodshops are not big enough. And most know the dance steps required. And wish for more space. Me included. But I am grateful to have my shop. It does my heart good to see on occasion someone worthy have a killer shop that dancing is not required but aloud.
  9. So recipie, this is close to what we used but we made a much larger batch. Our batch used 10 lbs of russet potatoes. Russet potatoes (6 medium), 1/4 cup butter, 1/4 cup milk, 1 tsp salt, 1 tsp sugar, 2 2/3 to 3 cups flour, extra flour for rolling, butter, sugar (white or brown) Potatoes are boiled until fork tender (the fork pieces the potato but they are still somewhat firm). Potatoes are riced, butter milk sugar salt are mixed and the mixture is cooled overnight. Following day mix flour by hand, chill again for an hour. Make 2" diameter balls, and flatten to hockey puck size. The smoother the edges of the puck the nicer the lefse will roll out. The uneven edges are from cracks. Lefse is rolled cold with a grooved or textured rolling pin on a pastry cloth. Both the cloth and the pin should have flour worked into the surface to prevent sticking. Refresh flour on the pin and pastry cloth after each piece rolled out. If using a pastry cloth you should be able to almost read the lettering through the lefse. So very thin. I didn't get pictures of this because i was the griddle operator and was busy. To move the lefse you slide the point of the turner under the center so the point extends out the other side and lift strait up. The griddle is 500F and it's best to not start making if the griddle is cooler than 450F. To place the lefse you set one of the hanging edges down and roll the turner laying the lefse flat. This is not like making pancakes. It only takes 30-90 seconds per side so don't get distracted. Once you see uniform bubbles your getting close to being done. I lift an edge with the turner to check for color. Keep a cotton towel on hand to wipe excess flour off the griddle after each piece. The cloth can also be used to move the lefse around on the griddle if you didn't hit the center as well as you hoped. We stack the cooked lefse on cloth to cool to room temperature before folding and packaging. Shelf life is a few days in the refridgerator, so if you want it to keep longer freeze it. Should be good 6 months-1year frozen.
  10. Yeah i thought about doing it that way. I was really unsure how long the electrical and everything would take. I didn't want to end the evening with 4 6" holes into the attic dumping cold air into the house. I opted for messy and quick, hindsight i could have done a cleaner job. I don't mind cleaning so much, it'll be good to get everything wiped down anyway.
  11. I go to great lengths not to make a mess. I hate cleaning up. I would have cut slowly with a sheetrock saw, using a Shop Vac held close to the source. A Shop Vac with a yellow bag does fine with sheetrock dust. https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Tools-ProTouch-Drywall-2014100/dp/B000B3CSM4/ref=asc_df_B000B3CSM4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242034450866&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9453228145833632797&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9009786&hvtargid=pla-679848676720&psc=1
  12. Nice job Drew. Lots of light and it looks great.
  13. On mine the inside clip is spring loaded to take up slack as the paper heats up or settles in or whatever that design is for. I have also used your method and then just held the inside-end paper at the clip area and cycled the clip to tighten the grip. This definitely seem to be one of the remaining problems with this design that could use some refinement.
  14. I went with retrofit cans. I climbed into the attic yesterday after work with a shovel and moved all the insulation away from the area. Once I had a good picture of the attic in the area doing retrofit cans just seemed obvious. So I ran to the store bought what I needed. I bought one of the recessed light hole saws and was going to use Tom's method. The hole saw was too small. Apparently the retrofit kits are not the same size as the new construction ones and there is no way the can would mount in the hole. So i grabbed my drywall rotozip thing, and used the templates that came with the cans. This meant that I ended up making a massive mess. This was only after cutting 1 hole so it got worse from there. Started at 6pm, had the 4 cans installed by 7pm. I got super lucky in that the ceiling hadn't been painted and whom ever hung the florescent fixture didn't damage the ceiling. You can't even tell there was a fixture there. Cans were wired and lights were in by 8pm. Cleaning was suspended at 9pm, because it was taking too long and Megan wanted to finish our show. Cleaning is easily going to take longer than all the other tasks put together.... On the bright side I can finally mount the cabinet door to the right in the picture above. This all got started because the door hit the old light fixture. 4 cans is about 0.5 cans too many. It's bright in the room and it's awesome.
  15. What you had is my current giddy. I see your magnificent shop and I am glad you rang the bell and achieved your goal. Most if not all are envious. And hard to find a more deserving person. Congratulation! Like the frame on this thread I will enjoy seeing your future creations. Europe, a boat, or a vacation home all cost money. Your shop will make money. Having fun doing it!
  16. Thank all. I spent many years in barely adequate shops. I did all those things we do to fit more stuff in a small space and it was great. The wife and I have had a goal for nearly 20 years and the new shop was part of that. With no intention of boasting or feeling full of myself I have to say that EVERY time I can walk from one area in the shop to another without sashaying around a jutting jointer table or performing some sort of choreographed maneuver to avoid barking my shins on a tool stand leg . . . I do feel giddy, I do want to pinch myself, and it really is a dream come true . Some folks retire and tour Europe, buy a boat, a vacation home, or a pair of Harley's . . . I bought a shop .
  17. I have done build-up stock and then mitered and this is a good method. For this material I was using a different finishing method for each material so gluing them up separately, finishing and then assembling made sense. I just tape off the area on the inner frame that becomes the glue surface for the inner to outer frame join.
  18. The maple looks right with all 3 outer frames. Great idea. Gee-dub, now that you are working in your shop, not on it, do you feel giddy? Do you pinch yourself? Your spot looks like a dream come true! You done good.
  19. I have started doing the inside first and winding the paper to the outside. It is a lot easier to deal with the outside clip last.
  20. Are the panels/mat boards glued to a recessed area of the back of the frame? Have you ever attached them to the frame prior to cutting and mitering them?
  21. Yesterday
  22. I like that peruvian walnut!
  23. I really wish they would come up with a better design for the clip at that end. I was hoping that was something Supermax had come up with when I first heard about them. As your third picture shows, it's almost impossible to get the paper tight enough so that it sits flat as it goes into the clip and thus that part wears out in no time and starts burning the wood. Using a piece of wood to push it down helps a little. I just avoid the last inch of the drum altogether, and the wear on your paper seems to indicate you do the same. But mine's only the 10" Jet so losing an inch really hurts.
  24. Darn, I loved my porter cable router, I guess I'll just have to find a new favorite. I dropped my PC router off my bench it still works but it doesn't sound good anymore I've had this one for at least 10yrs. Thanks for the info guys!
  25. PC had a lot of reasonable tools. I sold the hinge plate setup. Came in a nice metal box. The cheaper small routers were the 7310. There okay.. The good compact router is the pc310. They used them in Castle poket hole machines among side the 0c690.
  26. I have a whole bunch of 690's dedicated to special operations. I don't even know how many. One is a D-handled Rockwell, bought in the early to mid '70's. They're all still running. Since they're dedicated to a particular use, none get used a whole lot. For a while, they were giving away a small router when you bought a 690, so I loaded up then, and have a couple of tool boxes of palm routers with dedicated bits. Four 690's are dedicated for hanging house doors. One for the door template. One for the jamb template. One for the lock strike, and one for the lock plunger mortise in the door. When I change a bit in a router, the ones I reach for are mid sized Milwaukee. I don't remember the model number, but they're nice routers.
  27. Their 690 routers were cheap. This is why cabinet shops ordered them. Why they sold so many. If I wanted a better router at the time Bosch was just more money. A lot of the cabinet making equipment in 80-90's either had PC or Bosch in them. Whoever got the the contact. The only reason OC got even further was the sale of a staple gun and compressor for $119 I think it was. Porter cable nails work in Senco guns. PC had a good run. Now?
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