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  2. That means you get some time off from sawing cross ties? Time for you and Spanky to take some road trips.
  3. Today
  4. The green lumber price on 1 com white oak went down Monday to 0.70 bdft. Poplar and Cherry went down to. The flooring yard I sell to, has cut all sawmills off the month of February on white oak lumber.
  5. Cousin Dave with all the rain we are getting I have ran out of logs. So I guess, I will start picking on woodworkers now.
  6. I've used the inkjet method a couple times without issue, I'll definitely use it again.
  7. Yes, that’s normally how riggers operate. They send out a lead guy to analyze and coordinate the move before the equipment arrives.
  8. Injet photo to wood He does it with very simple process.
  9. This may be common knowledge amongst you CNC guru's but I just figured it out today. I don't research cutting profiles and tips often - ok, rarely - and it would probably be in my best interest to do so from time to time. However, assuming this little issue is one you've encountered or not thought of then this little tip will save you a bunch of time and a fair amount of sanding. My normal cutting profile on 1/2" BB (12mm) for Longworth chucks is to cut the slots in a rough pass climb cut leaving 0.007" on the side walls (radial) and 0.020" on the bottom (axial). Then I come back and clean up each slot with a conventional cut at full depth and that has left a very clean slot. Except for the bottom face veneer sitting on the spoilboard. That has splinters/fibers/fuzz and I have to hand sand those. All this is at 175 ipm and 18k rpm. Now this may not be a big deal if you're cutting one Longworth chuck. But on days like today, where we had a 16" going to the UK and three 12" sets for the States, then that adds up to 64 slots! That's way more hand sanding than I want to be doing on these given the low cost we charge and I don't want to increase the cost just because I feel the need to do some sanding to make a better product. However, time is money and as I was cutting the plates today I began to finally think about how I can eliminate the fuzz. It dawned on me before I cut the final of eight plates that I need to cut the full depth in one pass rather than leave 0.020" because what's happening is there's nothing to support the upcut of the compression bit in that final 0.020". So I quickly modified the cutting profile in Fusion 360 and cut the final plate. Turns out my thinking was correct, albeit 7-8 months late (we've cut over 270 Longworth chucks and I've had to sand slots on most of these). So now I can't wait to cut more chucks and NOT sand slots! LOL! In thinking about why this worked I realize it's something that just makes sense and I should have thought about this a long time ago. Leaving 0.020" for final pass - Cutting to full depth in one pass - David
  10. Probably in the 500 lbs range. I was looking between the Laguna LT16HD, SCM 16" saw (Ithink it was a forumla series), Hammer N4400, and the PM1500. I like the Laguna best but it has a 5hp motor and I don't really want to deal with a 40 amp breaker. But 5hp is common in this range with the exception of the PM1500 which is tied on the bottom of the list with the hammer. I can't remember why I didn't care for the hammer but there was something....oh yeah the resaw height is no better than what I have now and the unit is bigger physically than the others with 18" wheels vs 16"
  11. How much do you expect the saw to weigh? A healthy pair of movers can manipulate an astounding mass, using just those strap harness carrier slings. Or even a sturdy hand truck.
  12. The inkjet ink is more likely to cause problems. If it didn't run when you tried shellac, I'd stick with the shellac..Mod Podge is good for gluing the paper to the wood, though.
  13. I'm just not sure how that works going through a finished house. It's not like they have beams or walls they can brace on or use. Sorry for the hijack i'll have to ask more questions if/when i get to buying a large tool like a 16" saw.
  14. Walnut looks good with pretty much anything. I'll cast a vote for cherry, but all you mentioned will work nicely.
  15. Drew, all you should need is the spec sheet for the machine, although some idea what sort of pallet it comes on will help. Stuff I deal with at work involves moving hundreds of tons on occasion. The right rigger will have no trouble making it work.
  16. Is there a way to accomplish the consultation before a machine is purchased. Just curious because I'd LOVE a to have a nice 16" band saw in my shop. I know the saw alone probably make the corner but I just don't know if it'd make the corner with the equipment they need to move it. Stairs with corners are stupid. I don't know why they designed them they way they did....
  17. Part of wood working is the ability to correct or hide mistakes. YOu done good. I like it.
  18. No doubt that a rigger costs money. That’s the downside. On the upside, they generally will send out someone in advance of even a quote to survey the lay of the land. They’ll look into what’s being moved, size of the crate, any chance of being broken down into smaller components and then make a plan. That’s what you’re paying for. And they’re bonded. And you’re standing to the side watching rather than putting yourself in danger. I’m not trying to argue either, but from what I can see of MJC’s situation he should consider the combo J/P and use a rigger if it’s going into a basement, IMO.
  19. Yesterday
  20. I agree with both @Chestnut and @Isaac although my one project with a combination of wood was Walnut with Cherry.
  21. All the furniture labels stuck under finish and look fine for 100 years. Not really sure why a sticker is being talked down. Just because it is photo paper?
  22. I like the contrast of maple and walnut. Have done several pieces with this combination.
  23. I would maybe talk to an art/craft store. You might have better luck printing something with a color laser(take it to Kinko's and make a copy) than inkjet. And inkjet photo paper I think it's coated with wax, so it might give you problems. Only say that because inkjet ink more easily dissolves. I'd say some kind of spray sealer... an acrylic or lacquer or something would be good. Maybe look into mod podge as well. I'm not an expert, I just remember it being used to glue paper and fabric down. My mother used to use it for crafts projects.
  24. Now you guys are making me think I need to open the Incra boxes, but I've got too much other stuff to do. I was expecting it to be right to start with.
  25. Maybe try transferring the image to the wood? https://fixthisbuildthat.com/print-on-wood-5-ways-diy-image-transfer/
  26. So I guess that would be a group project then. Very well done to all involved.
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