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  2. If I were you, I'd call Jet. As I recall, they have good customer service as well as a good warranty.
  3. My conveyor belt is working intermittently and mostly not working at all. Sometimes it will start up and then stop after 5 seconds. I read the manual and adjusted the conveyor belt tensioners and that’s not it. Also tightened the sleeve (2 Allen wrench adjustments) between the conveyor motor and the conveyor drive and that’s not it either. In fact, when I loosen the sleeve altogether, and turn the conveyor belt motor on, I can see the motor stop even with zero tension on the conveyor sleeve. Can someone help me with a solution. I miss my drum sander.
  4. The frustrating thing with metric and imperial in Canada is needing to deal with both systems. I actually don't really find one all that much better, although I tend to use Imperial in the shop because that's what the scales on everything are. I'm an engineer in my day job and constantly have to switch back and forth, since we'll try to work in metric and then have conversations where people give you guidelines in Imperial.
  5. Today
  6. I do believe that the maker of a piece is always going to find some flaws in his or her own work. I'm honest with myself about these flaws.... But I'm not doing everybody else's work for them.
  7. It's like you went back in time. First time I called I looked down to see if I'd used a rotary dial phone.
  8. Are you starting to drive on the left side of the road , too?
  9. I've been dealing with metric for decades when it come to speed, weight, highway distances and temperature, but in the shop it's always been imperial. For the last month or so I've been using metric exclusively & it is like my brain has been let out of jail. I spend less time doing math & more time making sawdust.
  10. I wonder how well Plastidip would work in this situation. Seems like it would be great for long term storage like this, and a whole lot less messy to clean up.
  11. Wow! No joke! They were super nice and the guy was quite knowledgeable. He said that Titebond will hold up to most strippers, including acetone. I may do a test joint just for piece of mind, but I feel a lot more confident about it now. Thanks!
  12. I had that happen once with my cyclone. Before i modded the filter pan cleanout, i had a bandclamp let loose and blow off the plastic bag. It is a horrific sight to see. Im also in a basement, which makes i twice as bad. I really like the straight grain on the door/side.
  13. If I can get it to strip off of the surface and down just a little bit, I think I’ll be able to do what I want to do. (A test piece/joint is sound logic and is now in my plan.)
  14. I’m planning to do acrylic pouring (a style of art) on top of the piece. AP is water-based and need not involve the oil. If I can strip the oil off the top, I can likely seal the wood with Titebond, prime it with bonding primer and paint on that. (That’s my tentative plan.)
  15. So it took me a couple of months to actually get around to doing this, but I did it. Sheesh! Finding shop time these days is tricky. The burnisher technique worked really well. Did not close up the gap completely but it looks a LOT better. Thanks for all the tips guys.
  16. This suggestion is messy but effective. If the iron/steel tools are going to be left unattended for a long time grease is the best way to prevent rust. There are other options but I've read enough reviews that really hammer hole that under a long enough time frame they will fail. When i moved and stored i greased the tops and then wrapped in that packing stretch plastic. Removed the grease after with denatured alcohol.
  17. I highlight flaws if i show a way to solve the problem. Between us on here is different than the non-woodworking types. I don't talk about flaws with them any more. I got sick of getting that blank stare and the comment "This is far better than i could have ever done". Boy golly that door panel is purdy!!!!!!!
  18. I never understood this argument. For metric i need a calculator for fractions halving and doubling is easy math. For example 22 5/8 is very easy to halve 11 and 5/16 i can do it without thinking but 574.5mm wold require a calculator.... Fractions with odd numbers are just as easy 23 5/8 is 22 and 13/8 halves to 11 and 13/16. Much faster than trying to find my calculator... speaking of that where is my calculator?
  19. Regardless of hand tools or power, the first thing to do is dress the lumber. If it is not dressed right it may impede your ability to make everything fit.. Make the wood flat and even in thickness. Then the pieces must be square and opposing pieces must be exactly the same before you begin to make the joint...
  20. I linked it earlier in the thread. Lee valley did it as an April fools gag but then people wanted to actually buy it so they now sell it. I'm not sure what the material is but i'd bet that marker would clean off it one way or another.
  21. I think the tool cabinet turned out awesome! It's always good to have room for expansion unless you want to limit the number of tools you have. For some people that might be a good idea. In order to buy a new tool they have to sell one to make room. Naa you probably aren't what you never can see is the mess that is behind the camera. It's pretty easy to keep moving the mess behind the camera for each picture .... giving the illusion of a perfectly clean shop.
  22. Fantastic boards!! I always assumed a 16" machine would cover 98% of everyone's needs. You just squeaked by in this instance. I have a 500mm jointer, and in thicker stock, i think I become the limiting factor. I dont know that i could comfortably muscle a 8/4 board of that width over 7-9'. I wondered this in the guild build too, but what is the advantage of veneering the side panels? Ribboned Sapele isnt exactly rare or expensive. Seems like a hassle to glue up a veneer panel instead of doing it in solid wood,but i saw Darrel do it in his build too. Just to get away with not worrying about a floating panel?
  23. I always found that a good set of butt chisels are great for hand chopping dovetails. Crown makes a pretty decent set. Also take into consideration the size of saw you use, a slightly larger kerf makes the chiseling part go much easier.
  24. One can only hope. Usually cheaper too.
  25. I knew that, if I waited long enough, I could avoid the "fashion-du jour". I have been avoiding "trends" all my life - so much simpler that way.
  26. I haven't tried the router for box joints, but what you say makes sense. I've yet to see a dado stack that leave a perfectly flat bottom. Very important point. Box joints need to be very precise in order to get a gapless joint that you can actually get together in glue up. There are many box joint jigs out there, some being extremely complex. I prefer simplicity, hence my recommendation of William Ng's jig.
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