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  2. I need to glue a small wood stop to a surface inside a cabinet that already has 2 coats of ARS on it. The stop is 3/4" x 3/4" x 3/4" and will be located in the upper corner of a door opening. It will be fitted with a rare earth magnet to gold the small door closed, What's the best way to prep the area and what glue would you use?
  3. That's because of the extra mass of the larger #7. It has more weight behind it, so it cuts a little easier. Just my .02. Take care
  4. Today
  5. That is my plan, to finish it off with a sanding block. Thank you.
  6. To make it worse, I started this during my daughter’s nap. Once I had it clamped in place for one of the holes, my daughter woke up and I had to run back into the house to meet her, so I had to leave it there unattended for about half an hour!
  7. A rasp or sanding block might offer better control, once the veneer is trimmed fairly close.
  8. Another recent thread about outdoor signs has many suggests that coukd apply here. Unfortunately, there aren't many clear finished that provide good UV protection to prevent the wood from turning gray. If your friend doesn't mind the maintenance, I'd suggest a clear deck sealer of some type. Many advertize UV protection, and the maintenance process is usually to just was and re-apply. But you have to stay on it, if mildew takes hold you will lose some surface material getting it off. If the frame includes a small roof to add shade and reduce rain exposure, it will last much longer.
  9. I am in the middle of veneering a pair of speaker cabinets that I built. They are 40" tall with rounded sides that meet the square front baffle and rear wall at non 90 degree angles. I am planning on trimming the veneer with a flush cutting high tooth count saw. Question, is there a better method? Thanks! Steve
  10. That has to be the most terrifying drill press shot I've ever seen.
  11. Another stressful step done- laying out and drilling holes for the tuners. Layout would have been easy if I had made a template before rounding the edges of the headstock or if I took a few minutes to draw it in CAD, but what fun would that be? The tuner pegs are 6mm and the bushings are something like 8.7mm. The pegs are not centered on the tuner, and there are left/right tuners so you do have to pay attention drilling and installing. I used a compass for most of the layout. I wanted the tuners to follow the curve of the headstock and be evenly spaced along the length of it. You may be able to see some of my layout lines here. Nothing about this gives the warm and fuzzies. The 6mm drill bit hole was too snug for the pegs, I probably should have used the 6.5mm bit. I used a reamer to open them up a bit. Then used a special reamer bit to counterbore for the bushings. Ended up with a bit of tearout, but most of it will be covered by the bushings. Glad that’s over!
  12. How is the frame held together? Plywood will not hold fasteners as well as solid wood
  13. The sides are around 6/4-7/4, seat frame will be around 5/4 and the back rest starts as a 12/4 board but is shaped to around a 6/4 thickness.
  14. I got a friend that want's me to make a wooden head piece for his parents grave out of a 24x18x3" Hawaiian Milo slab. Instead of setting on a slab on cement like a headstone he plans to hang it from frame like a sign so he can easily take it off to maintain the finish. I do some CNC work and know little about finishes but even less about outdoor finishes. Paint is not an option and he is not a woodworker so I want to set him up with a finish than isn't too had for him to maintain but looks beautiful and hope fully protects the Milo color which tends to turn gray in the sun. I don't think he'll have an issue with needing to refinish several times a year but I wondering if he'll need remove the finish before re-apply or is there something that we can add on the existing like I see some woodworkers do with oil finished. Some of the script text and images I'm putting on is thin so I want to make sure the maintenance process with not effect the carvings.
  15. Like most hand planes, except modern makers, the pre-WWII planes were generally good tools. Post WWII, quality gave way to price, as with most things, and most hand tools became cheap imitations of once great tools. I am unaware of any stamped steel frog Craftsman planes, but would like to see any that have been found. I have restored Craftsman planes from the original type 1 Craftsman of 1928, made by Sargent, to 1951 versions featuring the new synthetic material, phenolic plastic. All work well when properly tuned. The type 1 is a top of the line Sargent brass badge plane wearing Craftsman logos. Craftsman planes are generally undervalued and can be a bargain price for a quality plane, if you have some idea of what to look for. Get familiar with the type 1 and type 2 Craftsman trademarks, then find planes wearing those marks. You will have an outstanding and beautiful tool that can run with any maker. The type 1 Craftsman below easily produces shavings 0.001 or less in thickness.
  16. It has been a LONG time since anyone has provided links here. Here are a few of my favorite sources on antique hand planes: Don Wilwol's site on anything Sargent, and many others. Mark Nickel collector of all Size 1 and 2 planes. Very skilled restorer and great writer about the collecting experience. Joshua Farnsworth runs a wood working school. Here you will find extremely helpful information on Stanley planes including an automated type study identifier and a cutting iron trademark data table. Joshua's site also hosts many wood working guides, videos, interviews. Lots to see and do. Best information on Vaughn & Bushnell planes. Outstanding planes in looks and performance. My own site focused on Fulton planes. I restore all types of planes as a hobby and occasionally present a few for sale. If you like antique hand planes that look as good or better than new, check out my style of highly restored antique planes.
  17. @Creative Signs, Don't forget to share a pic of your final solution!
  18. Consider that plywood is made from layers with alternating grain direction. This helps prevent warpage from expansion or contraction with changes in humidity. It also equalizes strength in to directions. But it doing so, it becomes weaker than an equal thickness solid board, at least in the direction of the grain. A benchtop laminated from solid boards, having grain all running parallel, will be considerably stiffer that a similar lamination of standard plywood. A plywood top of laminated strips will be strong enough, but really no stronger than if you saved effort and just layered full sheets. LVL, on the other hand, looks like a plywood lamination, but the grain is all parallel, so it would be super rigid.
  19. So you’re going to laminate 3 pieces of 1/4” ply, 24 times? That’s a bunch of glue and time involved, regardless of how many clamps you have. I bet there’s another source somewhere close for decent 1x’s.
  20. I already received the ones ordered a while back, but I was disappointed with the results, and didn't bother to even contact anyone, or at least, I forgot about it. I think it's the surface finish. To start with, they don't raise as smooth a burr as the Crown awl I've been using for so long. I think I can improve them by buffing with some really fine diamond paste. I have the diamond dust now too, but have just been too busy doing other stuff, that this is the first time I've thought about it since then, only by you reminding me. Still no promises about when I'll get around to working on them. That's why I didn't want anyone sending me any money to start with. It wasn't a sure thing. I've had a couple of other things come up this Summer that put me way behind on everything else I was planning to do.
  21. Thanks Tom and you’re right having never tried fuming I was a little apprehensive but the result is impressive. I wish I could take better pictures they are better in person, it’s been quite a ride for me
  22. So, can I order one now ;-) More seriously, do you care to report on the results?
  23. Worth all the effort, and they will be cherished for generations. No other staining, dyeing, or whatever comes close to what fuming does for White Oak. I'm sure they look even better in person, than in pictures here.
  24. Looking good. I might have to buy this one as well. What’s the final thickness of the timber once it has been milled?
  25. Plywood will be stronger but there is a down side unless you purchase something like cabinet grade ply you are going to have a number of small void throughout you bench top.
  26. Those really look fantastic Dave. You did some real fine work. Looking forward to seeing them in their final location.
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