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  4. Zinsser Bullseye Shellac is not dewaxed. Zinsser Bullseye SealCoat IS dewaxed. I have heard from multiple sources that aerosol spray shellac is dewaxed, but have not been able to confirm that claim. It makes sense that the wax could cause problems with the spray nozzle, but I still go for the SealCoat when I need it to be dewaxed.
  5. Oh my yeah that's tight fit
  6. I'm not sure what the products you are referring to are. If you are going to apply a shellac, make sure that it's dewaxed. If you use a shellac that isn't dewaxed the wax will not allow the varnish to adhere and it will flake off over time. Dewaxed shellac is labeled , so if it's not stated it's not dewaxed.
  7. I pretty much only get time in the shop in the evening, so some of these rules wouldn't work for me. I do try not to get into a task with my hands anywhere near power tools with cutters if I'm tired. Often if I just want to go in and unwind a bit I'll just use the hand tools (and it's quieter if the kids have just gone to bed). I also generally go with the rule that if I spend more than 5 minutes searching for the tool that was just in my hand, it's time to give up for the evening. I will occasionally have a beer in the shop, but only if I'm sanding, finishing, or doing easy hand work (scraping, hand planing, etc). Like anything else, most of this is common sense.
  8. We are moving now. Here's my progress since last post.... This post I tackle the seat joints, pre-assembly shaping, and the seat glue up. Cut the back notches for the rear leg joints. A few thoughts here, first the size of the notch is only somewhat important. I try to be dead on but as you'll see with assembly there is extra seat here extending out past the rear leg. So if you cut the notch at 2 15/16ths" instead of 3", you'll be fine. The real big deal is the fact that this notch needs to be dead on square, I mean dead on. The front notches are only 1/4" deep, I set up the blade and the fences so the cut is done without needing any adjustments. Also I just leave on my standard blade and nibble away, quicker than setting up the dado stack; Against the Incra stop; Against the tablesaw fence; Cut is a little rough at first; Router plane makes quick work of this and gives me a perfectly flat surface. I would have used the router plane with the dado stack anyway, another reason I just use a standard blade for this notch. Once you have your notches it's time to route the notch to develop the classic Maloof joint outline. I find using the handheld router here a mistake waiting to happen. To me the router table with the starter pin in place gives me much more control; Few minutes later, looking good. With the maple I did get some burning, esp with the end grain. I don't think there is any avoiding this and the joint has a ton of gluing surface anyway; Now before I glue up the seat I'm going to take a minute to do some pre-assembly shaping. This helps a ton developing the contour of the future seat. The outside boards are placed next to the already cut boards they will be glued to. I strike a line for depth and begin shaping. Here you can see my guide lines; One side done; other side done. Take notice how little dust is present on the table. This operation was completed by the Festool Ras and took about 7 minutes per board!!! Is it necessary to do this pre-assembly shaping. No, but it helps. I can hold my RAS at an angle that is not possible when the seat is assembled. If you look at this photo you can see the RAS disc would be digging into the adjacent board. To do this operation once the seat is assembled you need to hold your grinder in a much more awkward and less effective angle; Here's a view of board number 4, I'm pretty aggressive with my reduction. I was aware of my domino placement and we should be fine. Once the seat is completely shaped then I would expect this area to be slightly over 3/4" at it's thinnest; Finally, all glued up, I almost forgot you need to put the seat in this position so glue doesn't drip down into your joints. Positioned wrong at first but caught myself; So you can see from above I'm well on my way to shaping this seat, it's nothing more than blending together the boards now. Also with shaping I think the biggest thing I see people do that I don't think looks good is they scoop out on the perimeter at a harsh slope to their depth then they have a large flat area 1" below the top of the seat. I want my slope to be more gradual and much less "flat" area. This shape tend to cradle the legs and the backside and is much more comfortable. I'll elaborate on this in the next post as shaping the seat is on the agenda then. These operations took just 1 hr, so I'm sitting at 4.5hrs so far. Thanks for looking.
  9. Huh, no one ever wants to hang out in my shop long. I think they are all afraid I'm going to put them to work or something.... My dad put a cup down on cast iron. I explained to him that it could leave a rust ring on the cast iron and he never did it again. He gets a pass on all non-safety shop rules as he had to put up with me messing up all his things for a good 12 years. Now that i have my own shop i get his frustration with me when i was a teenager.
  10. Welcome, i love the wood turnings. I'm trying to stay away from buying a lathe so thanks for not helping with that. They may need to be rotated on your computer/phone before you upload.
  11. I think you could improve the stability in shelving mode if you run a piece of stock under the front edge and rear edge of the bottom shelf - essentially making the "feet" run the entire width of the unit. This would increase the surface area of contact between two units when they're stacked, giving some additional resistance against them shifting. You could take this a bit further, and add another piece of stock under each end of the bottom shelf, inset just enough from the end to capture the top "tab" of the unit below.
  12. What I would do is remove the middle bulge from both of the legs. Create an even curve that goes in from top to bottom on each side of each leg. I'd do the same on the stretcher underneath. I like the curly maple wedge idea and the painted base with wood top as well. Another option is a diluted paint. I've done this before on pine where i mixed paint 50/50 with water and it ended up looking like an old fashioned whitewash. (I chose white but i suppose any color would work) The wood grain still showed through but it still had a feel of paint. Kind of the best of both worlds. Shou Sugi Ban is all the rage right now. Could be a consideration as well, though it's not without it's major risks.
  13. +1 This is a very very important thing!
  14. LED lights are awesome. There are some I get from the box store that are like $15 each and they work awesome. I don't know if you follow Mattias Wandel but his advice about placing lights at random angles is money. It really helps prevent shadowing as the lights aren't placed parallel to benches or objects. If you want i can probably dig out the video where he explains it well. My dad had a dust collector like that too. For some reason he always complained about it talking back to him....
  15. I would use a spray bottle to raise the grain on the whole chair and then sand back smooth. After you wet the grain and sand smooth the wood shouldn't raise again. If you want to play it safe you could try wetting the surface again to see what happens. You could use alcohol with the dye, the fumes will be pretty strong. I wouldn't use lacquer thinner, it will probably work but the fumes would be deadly. Even coloring is going to be achieved by an even coat of a well dispersed dye. The dye mixes well in water and alcohol and not so well in oil solvents aka mineral spirits. If you want a perfect application I highly suggest to apply the dye via HVLP. Maple blotches in a not so attractive way sometimes so that is something that doesn't suit the best to wiping but isn't an issue spraying. I don't think you'd need something like a Fuji, a conversion gun would probably work great but I'd practice. Best part is you can practice with water and raise the grain at the same time. Also applying dye with the shellac is possible but it can be tricky as well. If you get a dry edge and overlap you could get dark lines etc. Drips while applying on the chair may be very hard to manage. That said Dave did a bang up job above.
  16. Hello, I want to emphasize the beauty of oak wood by applying 1-2 layers of shellac. Then 1x grund under the varnish, then 2x ultra varnish. Anyone has experience in applying shellac to the floorboard and then varnish? Smoked floor board 16x300x3000mm
  17. There's never been any alcohol in our house but we do drink water and coffee. Except for me and my coffee, for which I have a specific place to set my cup and to stand and take a sip, nobody brings liquids into the shop. No exceptions ever. Even though my tools are all heavy and industrial I don't allow anyone to lean on tools. My philosophy is that if you can't stand without leaning on something then take a quick walk through the shop and go sit in the house. I work in the shop all day every day and I don't lean on anything. Besides, as has been said I don't want your hands on my cast iron surfaces. And just as important, don't walk in and begin picking up pieces of wood or moving fences and such. Fences might have been set for a particular cut when you got here and I'll make the cut when you leave, so don't move anything. I welcome visitors and many from our Woodworking Club come by but all get the 'rules briefing' before entering the shop. David
  18. I applaud your restraint ;-)
  19. Making a step up on a tool is always inspiring. Sounds like your new saw puts a smile on your face. I started with a used contractor saw and went through the steps that a lot of folks do. I can say that even at the humble beginning, taking the time to setup my machines to their best potential paid big dividends and extended their useful life. There is some discussion here about aligning your saw on two planes. Aligning at 90 degrees and setting up your rip scale is great. Addressing alignment at other angles becomes important as soon as you want a bevel cut to match up to something else . . . or not burn or bind. There are a lot of great folks on here who will go the distance to help others. Lots of good historical threads on a lot of topics as well. It looks like you have a good start on your journey and woodworking forums are a good resource to use along the way. I am particularly enjoying your progress as I am trapped between shops right now for the first time in many years. From here: to here: I'm currently living vicariously through others
  20. The only thing missing for me is any alignment or retention mechanism. My caution probably comes from being born and raised where the earth moves but, a stack of say, five of those, could get bumped from the side and topple easily. They certainly wouldn't be child proof if required. Dowel pins, a reversing-mating profile on the end caps or at least 'something' would make me more comfortable. There is also a narrow footprint once you get to a certain height. Maybe a broader sort of base that the bottom unit would rest in?
  21. What's that? I like the stacking aspect of it. Looks like it would work well. Is it meant to stack front front to back as well? I'd think will some glue and clamps, it would bring it all together and have plenty of strength.
  22. I thought about doing the table in a dark, dark stain. The benches I make will have the dark top and painted base. Not sure how that would look.
  23. Now if I could just figure out why my pictures are sideways? Haha glad to be here!
  24. Mick, I'm pretty sure I would have marched her glass directly to the kitchen sink after the first infraction! You showed incredible restraint.
  25. I guess I'm missing a little detail - are these meant to simple nestle together, or lock together so they act as a single unit?
  26. Glad to have you here, and thanks for sharing such beautiful work!
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