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  2. Great work, Chestnut. I'm impressed.
  3. Yep many are the same or at least very close you start with the same and trim to fit
  4. Sorry to see the cracks in your good looking boards. I learned aobut colid boarders the hard way, too.
  5. Today
  6. Im not sure it has to be in segments, but if glued all in it should all be the same grain direction, the borders would have to be end grain as well if you could get end grain pieces that big. Be sure the wood is cured well before glueup too, the shrinkage during drying may not be even all across the board.
  7. Nice job explaining this. Ive done quite a few celtic knot pen blanks, pretty much the same way with table saw and band saw. One option is to use multiple layers of colored veneer for the infill, doing contrasting borders on the knot loops look pretty cool. Aluminum and plastic cards are popular for infill borders, recommended to use epoxy for these materials.
  8. Wow the Kumiko looks awesome! Defiantly tedious but the end result is pretty neat. Are each of the lengths unique or are you able to batch some stuff out? Being able to batch out would make it a lot easier. I don't know if I should laugh, be offended, or take this as a compliment .
  9. Whoa! Nut’s defiantly got some competition here! Football or not. I’m with Chet on the repetitiveness.
  10. I actually really didn't give it to much thought until i started batching out the pieces this morning...at which point I went why do you do this to yourself LOL
  11. I'm with Mark I think you can collect a lot of the fine dust when sanding just not much from a chip perspective while turning. I have a 5" hose from my dust collector that I set on the lathe bed when sanding
  12. This is where I would fall by the wayside. I have a hard time with repetitive tasks. Over and over doesn't go over real well. My hat is off to those that can.
  13. Yep the guys above have it correct if you want a border on that type of board it has to be made in segments just like the board (same size segments) or it will blow its self up.
  14. I like the Grex pinners. I have had the 23 ga for years and more recently bought the 18ga for my basement project. Not the cheapest but they work really well.
  15. Nice job! I like his channel as well does some cool stuff.
  16. So I was able to get the panels completed today. I batched all the parts out and after a couple of football games worth of work they were complete First I had to cut about 300 individual parts. Its important to use a guide as you want the pieces square. Here is the stack early on Then I set up the kumiko blocks in my moxon vice and prepared for the fist cuts which are also the most difficult with this pattern. You have to split the angle 1/3 and 2/3rds The main thing is to keep the chisel sharp and tight against the guide blocks You're looking for something like this Rinse and repeat several hundred times (ea panel has 64 pieces with a total of 224 chisel cuts) and you're done. Once they are complete I sand both sides on a piece of sand paper on the bench. After a couple of football games you have this Next up design the box and prep the stock for those. Good thing there is a game tomorrow
  17. Wimayo

    Squeaking table

    I like paraffin but, I find it rather crumbly and it can make a mess if you are not careful. Also, because it is solid, it is difficult to get into tight spaces where you need it. For the last year or so, I have been using the wax from a toilet wax seal. They are cheap at the big box store and the wax is soft enough that it can be brushed into tight spaces with a small acid brush or, likewise, spread onto flat surfaces with the brush.
  18. I've been watching too much Frank Howarth wood turning lately but from it I stumbled upon the Celtic Knot on youtube and it looked both easy and awesome. Much more attainable than some of the things Howarth does. Beings that not many turners post her I figured why not create a dedicated post. I found a tutorial that makes it really easy. You start with a piece of square stock and set your miter gauge to 45 or 60 degrees. Really I'm not sure the angle matters a whole lot the outcome will just look a bit different. Se your blade height so you don't cut all the way through. Leave about 1/8" of material. Have a stop block set or if your fancy like me and have one of these over the top miter gauges use the built in stop. First cut. Then take some wood or something else that you have prepped to your saw kerf width. I'm using birch stock and walnut fill. To glue the filler in get CA glue in the slice as well as coat the sides of the infill piece. I used gloves to prevent myself from having to call for help after gluing myself to my table saw or something. After the in fill piece is in I hit the outside of the piece with some activator and sanded everything flush with my belt sander. Yes i have a belt sander, no I don't use it often, this is the first time in about 2 years. After the first cut rotate the stock 90 degrees spindle style and make a 2nd cut. Same thing with CA glue on the infill and belt sanding. This is what my piece looked like after rotation 90 degrees. You can also see the miter gauge setup and stop block After the infill is glued and flushed. Rotate 90 degrees again spindle fashion, cut, fill, sand. This is what it looks like before the 90 degree rotation. As you can see the saw blade is lined up on the walnut from the previous cut. I was rotation counter clock wise from the picture below's perspective. Make sure to always rotate the same direction either clockwise or counter clock wise (anti-clockwise if your from Europe). After 3rd cut. The other side. As you can see the top face does not have a diagional. My last cut will position that side down. After all 4 sides are cut you should have a top line and bottom line with a diagonal on each side. You would see an X if you use other methods where you cut all the way through but those methods leave you with a more difficult glue up. Once you turn the area down a bit you'll see this. This was just a test. It only took me about 2 hours from first picture to last picture. Gotta love how fast you can make things on the lathe.
  19. Tell him to get that ball rolling 3 months will be up fast. What would he tell you if you destroyed it in an accident? Bet they would replace it. It took me over a month to work into the schedule.
  20. Shot helped some but still not good, Dr. says I have to wait 3 months before he will do surgery, that old Craftsman was my dads, held on to it too long, sentimental reasons I guess but I made a ton of stuff with it.
  21. Years of an old craftsman tablesaw are why I have a sawstop. There were female mistakes in my early years which were thankfully not life effecting as that beatch has been erased from my life. Are the shots doing you any good?
  22. Uh...... It wasn't old then.
  23. what's the problem? all you have to do is not sleep and work three times as fast as anyone on here
  24. by the time you walked down the aisle i had gotten out of the Army and had 2 of the 4 kids and was sawing boards on an old Craftsman table saw
  25. The finish just has to be dry to the touch in my case no way it will be cured
  26. Oh I can't hold a candle to Drew that young man puts me to shame LOL
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