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  2. Those marks strike a very strong resemblance to some stains I had on my hardwood oak floors that I just refinished. I was able to get pretty good results by using hydrogen peroxide (ie. essentially bleaching like Wimayo suggested). After applying very light coats I watched it for a few hours and checked back to make sure everything was ok. Finished the floors with a waterborne finish and except for the darkest spots you would never know the stains were there to begin with.
  3. Today
  4. I'll take 1 at $40. They are good routers. I don't need 2 as this would now be my 3rd palm router.... and 6th overall. I took your advise and got some cheap ones and it's nice having a couple bits mounted and ready. Doing it while it's 90 and humid doesn't help but i just have been taking things slow. I have a 6' x 10 foot utility trailer I've loaded that up about 4 feet tall 4 times now in brush removed from my property. It feels like i haven't even made a dent. Yes ... and no. It really depends. Part of my half acre lot is beach sand part is clay and the other part is silty sand. Sand is great, and i quite lake clay as well. Silt can take a leap that stuff is AWEFUL. I could get really in the weeds geology wise but our soils are mixed dramatically because glaciers.
  5. You've got a good point. But I still think veneer. By carefully using sequential pieces the joints can disappear pretty easily. Not nearly as easy to do with solid wood. Finding out whether or not it is will be important to the refinishing process, so doing as @Wimayo suggests is a good idea.
  6. I have yet to find a waterborne finish that stands up well to grease & oil.
  7. Yesterday
  8. RichardA

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    So, she got half a song? I hope it wasn't In godda da vida.
  9. Tpt life

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    Old neighbor of mine bought an RV for a song, as the divorce decree mandated the man share any profit with his ex.
  10. I like the Bosch Colts. My only bitch about them is the damn cord. It's not soft enough to fall out of the way, and It kinks frequently.
  11. Fooled me. I was guessing a really fancy branding / stamping tool.
  12. I'm with Drew on this one. Dado shims are a pain in the neck. If I had the space, I would love to have a dedicated dado saw.
  13. I’d be interested in one too, unless @Chestnut wants them both.
  14. I didn't watch both videos, but in your comment, you indicated these tests were with mortise and tenon joints, which are a cross-grain glue application. In the seat blank for the chair, it is a long-grain glue-up, which is supposed to be stronger that the wood itself, and has shown to be so in my limited experience. In that situation, I fail to understand the advantage of using dominoes, dowels, biscuits, or any other device. Just curious what I might be missing.
  15. Check into the Osmo line of finishes. Very durable and easy to apply/repair.
  16. OH BTW, the dominos really help with alignment assuming you don't goof. If you use anything be careful that when sculpting the seat you don't take off too much wood and expose the extra support.
  17. This sounds like a case where it is better to use an easily renewable finish, rather than attempting to make it damage-proof. I would consider a finish designed for butcher blocks. It won't offer much protection for scratches, dings, and scorching, but is easy to repair when damage does occur. Pour-over epoxy is pretty durable, but salt is abrasive enough to scratch it, and may react chemically like the poly seems to have. Heat is problematic with almost any finish, but the butcher-block finishes essentially push the heat limit to the wood itself. Hot pans can certainly scorch the wood, but probably at higher temps that the poly or epoxy can take. Maple can endure temps over 220 F for extended periods before color change is noticed. There are high-temperature epoxies that withstand more, but most are not clear.
  18. In some forums I've read that a rep from Titebond speaking at a club meeting stated that the dowels or Dominos don't add any strength to the glue-up in the seat. I search YouTube but most of the test I saw IMHO were not valid. the best two were by Dowellmax (did not include just glueing) and Wood.Work.LIFE. (little on the weak side). Ref the test by Wood.Work.LIFE ( Test bt Diwekknax > . his handcut Mortise & Tenon broke at 118 lbs and the domino with two broke at 238. I could argue that the dominio was stronger based on this test. Thus I suggest that the domino is stronger than just glue but the real question is do you need the strength. If you have a DF500 IMHO there is no question as to if you should (yes you should). You are going to spend a LOT for the wood and invest 60+ hours, why take the gamble.
  19. Frank, I see three cathedrals across the width. This seems to indicate a panel of glued boards, or possibly still a veneer. What am I missing that made you say it looks like one board?
  20. @Chestnut, is the soil particularly sandy up there, or just looking light-colored in those photos? Nice work on the clearing. Like Dave said, its a lot more work that folks realize.
  21. I was thinking $40 a piece but i'm open to offers too
  22. That’s a lot more work than most people realize Drew but it’s looking great already
  23. How much are you listing them for? I might know someone interested....... . I've been missing shop time. I have a lot of landscaping work that I want to get done so I've been spending time on that. I've been moving sprinkler heads in preparation for some stone edging. I also have about 0.1 acres of "woods" that I've been clearing the buck thorn out of and don't some selective thinning on the trees. I forgot to take beginning pictures but if you look at the picture below. My property looked like my neighbors, so dense underbrush. The underbrush is almost all buck thorn a very nasty invasive species. Luckily it is very easily uprooted so most of the small plans i pull by hand. The larger plants I use a tool call a Root Talon. Looking the other direction I still have a good long ways to go.
  24. Can the edge trim be removed? If so, you will be able to see the veneer edge if there is one. Also, take a close look at the bottom. Sand it to bare wood if necessary. Does the wood grain and color look the same? It is common for veneered work to have veneer on both sides. However, the bottom may be of a different species or, may be a totally different grain pattern of the same species. If this is the case, you probably have veneer on the top. You might also use a small sharp chisel to "lift" a small sample on the bottom to check for veneer. If there is veneer on the bottom, there is veneer on the top.
  25. Yes, still in Texas. Moving down toward San Antonio.
  26. I found a woman just like that, quite a babe she was. I ended up buying overpriced tools I didn't need. And no, she was not interested.
  27. We used a big old slab of bowling alley to top our island and I like it just fine except that we poly coated it and repeat exposure to salt (I'm a chef) and heavy use has left the finish kind of sticky and impossible to really clean. We're going to strip it, but I want to coat it in something that can handle high heat and excessive amounts of salt (and butter, and flour and the like). We've considered a pour over epoxy, but I'm hearing it can get permanently sticky if exposed to heat. Once I dig into specific products, it gets verrry confusing. Any thoughts?
  28. Thanks. Without drilling into it or continuing to sand I cannot first hand confirm solid/veneer however I am in contact with someone who refinished the same table and says it's solid wood. Though maple was a guess. He's not sure on species. I know the company also worked in walnut.
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