MarketPlace


745 topics in this forum

  1. Powermatic 209 Knives

    • 0 replies
    • 1k views
  2. FS: Hand tools

    • 7 replies
    • 1.9k views
  3. Unisaw FS

    • 11 replies
    • 1.4k views
    • 0 replies
    • 1.4k views
    • 0 replies
    • 1.3k views
    • 14 replies
    • 1.4k views
    • 5 replies
    • 1.3k views
    • 6 replies
    • 1.3k views
    • 1 reply
    • 1.5k views
    • 1 reply
    • 1k views
  4. 15% off Supermax

    • 24 replies
    • 2.7k views
    • 11 replies
    • 1.7k views
    • 3 replies
    • 1.4k views
    • 0 replies
    • 1.3k views
  5. Festool LS130

    • 5 replies
    • 1.5k views
  6. Kreg Clamp Track

    • 7 replies
    • 1.4k views
  7. saw filing vise-Disston

    • 3 replies
    • 1.3k views
    • 8 replies
    • 1.6k views
    • 5 replies
    • 6.2k views
    • 4 replies
    • 1.4k views
    • 3 replies
    • 1.3k views
    • 2 replies
    • 987 views
    • 1 reply
    • 982 views
    • 10 replies
    • 1.7k views
    • 2 replies
    • 1.3k views


  • Topics

  • Posts

    • 1) Too many hobbies, not enough time.    2) Too many hobbies, not enough budget.    3) Wrong style of house to build most of what I desire to build. 
    • Thanks Tom! I was looking at the Y34. Looks like the supply houses around here only carry the 2-5’ bury depths. My grading guy already cut the trenches since he had his equipment out here. At the hydrant end it is about 2’ deep, so I’m thinking I’ll just pick up a Y34-2 and dig a bit by hand if needed.  I’ll do brass or stainless for the fittings.  I was originally thinking I would just run 3/4” all the way, but it’s probably better to go ahead and do 1” to the hydrant.  Is PVC better than the flexible tubing from my the well head to my house? Or Pex? I saw that Pex B can be direct buried and it sure would be nice to just roll out a coil of tubing and not have any joints to do. Not that PVC would take very long. There is a spigot on top of my well head (there’s a tee straight out of the well cap, one connects to the line heading to my house and the spigot is on the other. I might just tie my line into that (either using the spigot as a shut-off or replacing the spigot with a valve) rather than splicing into the main line heading to the house. We never use the spigot, we have one on the house relatively close to the well head.  Thoughts?
    • I checked a similar Chapin (not part of this Fountainhead group) and their warranty considers the pump to be a wear part and it is not covered at all. Warranties almost always carry conditions, it’s rare to find a company whose policy is as simple as it looks on the packaging.  I’m more annoyed with companies that insist on replacing a whole item instead of the one part that is broken, than ones that have terms or limits around their warranty policy. 
    • Pretty sweet design, Dave!
    • Thinking about this more, I might side with the company.  If anyone buys a sprayer and lets dirt get in it, or leaves something that will coagulate if left for any amount of time, like Sevin in it, it will clog, or doesn't keep the pump clean while it's out and going back in, any sprayer, even a multi-hundred dollar B&G is going to stop working. I've already found out they'll replace a broken part quickly and for no charge when it could be a manufacturing defect.  If someone just wants a new sprayer simply because one stopped working in the warranty period for any reason, I can see where they can just pull one out of inventory for not really any noticeable cost to them, but wouldn't want to pay the shipping.  Almost always it's going to be something simple that is just normal, day to day operating of any pump sprayer. The cheap ones aren't built to last though, so it could be they're simply made too cheaply or the warranty is too long for the cheap ones.
  • Popular Contributors