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    • The name escapes me, but someone used to make a chisel plane that is perfect for that application. An all carbide blade, flat against the work as @Mark J suggests, but had a wood grip on top, shaped like a blick plane. Was called a scraper, but worked like a chisel.
    • Spitballing ideas related to horses... Hitching posts / rails with some fancy joinery for the decorative element. Embellish with carvings? Saddle stands. Tack trunks. Oversize blanket ladders for drying the the saddle blankets. Moveable steps for smaller folks to mount large horses. Think Shaker step stool. Practical alternative is an up-scaled '1-2-3' block. Make a rectangular box 8" x 16" x 24", one side open, with hand-holds cut in each end. Can be a tray / tote for feed, etc... or as 3 different height steps. Ranch brand / logo signs to hang over the driveway or on the corral gates. Folding A-frame sign boards (chalk or white) for places that offer lessons & boarding service.   
    • 1. Air-drying a slab so thick will take a loooong time. 2. Slabs cut from either side of the pith will have quarterd grain, about as stable as it gets. 3. 1" over may not be enough from a truly green slab. 4. Before selecting the lumber, watch these:   I have met Jay in person, and I asked about these benches. He told me the pine is his favorite, by far. The hickory is so hard / rigid that it causes rebound when whacking a chisel. Red oak is probably too porous and splintery, white oak might be ok. For hardwoods, maple and cherry are two good options, being not too hard, and uniform in grain. My choice was to use spruce, and consider it a wear item. I often find it convenient to screw a workpiece or fixture to the bench, and the screw holes disappear from the soft spruce. It is also easy to resurface with a hand plane. My use is not heavy, and my bench is perfectly servicable after a decade, but I'm about ready to make a new one with different features. There is my $0.02 worth.
    • I would be concerned that a groove loose enough to avoid glass breakage from wood movement would leak like a sieve. And using such a groove also means you'll have to pre-finish before assembly, or have to clean a lot of finish off the glass. I suggest you remind your client that the reasons WHY glass panels should be fit with rabbets and trim were discovered long, long ago, and the physics hasn't changed.
    • Drill a tiny hole through the epoxy at each end of the fault. Then use a vacuum at one hole and a syringe of epoxy at the other suck epoxy into the void. When cured, sand and buff out the surface.
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