<?xml version="1.0"?>
<rss version="2.0"><channel><title>General Woodworking Talk Latest Topics</title><link>https://www.woodtalkonline.com/forum/4-general-woodworking-talk/</link><description>General Woodworking Talk Latest Topics</description><language>en</language><item><title>What came in the mail today?</title><link>https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/31283-what-came-in-the-mail-today/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	I thought I would start a thread where we could record what came today to aid our woodworking. Anything is game here from humble fasteners, through handtools to machine tools and even wood stock whatever. If there are no pictures it didn't happen <img alt=":D" data-emoticon="" height="20" src="https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/emoticons/default_biggrin.png" srcset="https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/emoticons/biggrin@2x.png 2x" title=":D" width="20">
</p>

<p>
	I'll go first.
</p>

<p>
	Over the years I have done a small amount of veneering but never anything that required something like a vacuum bag system. I simply could not justify the cost at the moment. That's not to say never as you don't know what is around the corner.
</p>

<p>
	Anyway recently I was repairing some lifted veneer on the aprons of a table with cauls made from plywood wrapped in packing tape and thought "If I had a veneer hammer I could do this quite easily". In "ye olde dayes" a workshop would always have a few veneer hammers on hand but they seem to be few and far between nowadays. You can make one from some brass strip and a few sticks of wood but I wanted a substantial commercially made one.
</p>

<p>
	So a German made Kunz veneer hammer arrived this morning with a drop forged head. This it the KUN037 with a 90mm (3.1/2") blade on one side and a 22mm (7/8") square lump on the other side for spot pressing. Best used with hot hide or Titebond hide glues it will even work with Titebond cold press as it pushes the mating parts together forming a good seal. It will probably work on any adhesive which exhibits good grab characteristics like Titebond Original.
</p>

<p>
	<a class="ipsAttachLink ipsAttachLink_image" data-fileext="jpg" data-fileid="59994" href="https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_2020_05/IMG_0480.jpg.66f33d458743b3cf41cfe913704e24e6.jpg" rel=""><img alt="IMG_0480.thumb.jpg.c36db85cad3e1b9cdd6dfeb55c597886.jpg" class="ipsImage ipsImage_thumbnailed" data-fileid="59994" data-ratio="45.50" width="800" src="https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_2020_05/IMG_0480.thumb.jpg.c36db85cad3e1b9cdd6dfeb55c597886.jpg"></a>
</p>

<p>
	 
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">31283</guid><pubDate>Tue, 19 May 2020 10:03:37 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Why am i getting raised glue lines on cutting boards?</title><link>https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/5097-why-am-i-getting-raised-glue-lines-on-cutting-boards/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>Every time i make an end grain cutting board i sand it down until it's butter smooth.  i religiously start at 50 grit and then work up through 80, 120, 220.  at the completion of sanding, i can't feel any of the glue lines and it's smooth as silk.  once i wipe on my General Finishes salad bowl finish (diluted to 50% w/ mineral spirits) with a cotton rag, i notice i often get raised glue lines that i can slightly feel once it is dry.  i then have to lightly sand it down with 220 until the raised lines are flat then apply another coat of finish.  i repeat the process until an adequate finish is built and it remains smooth. is this common or am i making an error somewhere?  btw, the wood is dry and acclimated to my shop.</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">5097</guid><pubDate>Sun, 09 Oct 2011 00:43:31 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>veneering scroll work</title><link>https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/44440-veneering-scroll-work/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	hi, new to the forum.  i am an avid clock restorer and have a 1800's pillar and scroll which has damaged scrolls.  replacing the scroll base wood and then need to apply veneer to surface. my question is what is best approach to cutting or forming the curves in veneer.  I am thinking i need to cut the veneer to roughly the right shape, glue it to the base and then trim it to the proper shape.   Joe 
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">44440</guid><pubDate>Tue, 31 Mar 2026 13:24:26 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>New Guy Here</title><link>https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/44442-new-guy-here/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	Allow me to introduce myself.  I'm a 67 year old retired fart and I've been around the block a couple of times.   While in college, back in the 80's, I started out as a framer for LP, rebuilding their plywood plants and got hooked on woodworking.  Went into the military and discovered the wonderful world of the Base Hobby Shop and have never looked back.  Look forward to gleaning knowledge from the group while also contributing my 2 cents.  Cheers from Helotes, Texas.
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">44442</guid><pubDate>Wed, 01 Apr 2026 23:46:46 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Sales and Deals</title><link>https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/32992-sales-and-deals/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	Thought it might be nice to have an ongoing thread where we can share deals or sales on woodworking tools and materials. <br />
	<br />
	To start it off-
</p>

<p>
	Harvey Tools is running a sale through the weekend. The Ambassador bandsaw is currently $1,749, which is the lowest I have seen it in a while. Current “list” price is $2,499 though it is not often actually sold at that price. A lot of their other tools are on sale as well, but that’s the most notable. 
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">32992</guid><pubDate>Sat, 30 Apr 2022 15:19:45 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Double Sided Picture Frame</title><link>https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/44212-double-sided-picture-frame/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	A friend of a friend has asked me to build a double sided picture frame for this sheet of un-cut $2 bills. I’ve made many frames before but not sure how to proceed with this. The sheet is approximately 24” x 24”. It will be bordered on both sides with single strength glass. Any ideas? <br />
	<a class="ipsAttachLink ipsAttachLink_image" href="https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_2025_09/IMG_7902.jpeg.f857dc15c6b4fa06d73cb8def71cf63b.jpeg" data-fileid="83055" data-fileext="jpeg" rel=""><img class="ipsImage ipsImage_thumbnailed" data-fileid="83055" data-ratio="133.33" width="600" alt="IMG_7902.thumb.jpeg.16d0d0685f2f2d1fdd272215be51c3ae.jpeg" src="https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_2025_09/IMG_7902.thumb.jpeg.16d0d0685f2f2d1fdd272215be51c3ae.jpeg" /></a>
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">44212</guid><pubDate>Wed, 17 Sep 2025 02:54:26 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Tearout issues on plywood cuts</title><link>https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/44426-tearout-issues-on-plywood-cuts/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	Hey all, been working with plywood recently and keep getting tearout on the edges, especially on cross cuts. i tried different blades but still not getting clean results. is this more about blade type, technique, or something else? what actually works for you guys?
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">44426</guid><pubDate>Fri, 20 Mar 2026 05:36:11 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Dumpster dive</title><link>https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/44415-dumpster-dive/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	<a class="ipsAttachLink ipsAttachLink_image" href="https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_2026_03/IMG_1562.jpeg.0dfc68cab44b598f69f151ad6cfb2661.jpeg" data-fileid="84753" data-fileext="jpeg" rel=""><img class="ipsImage ipsImage_thumbnailed" data-fileid="84753" data-ratio="133.33" width="600" alt="IMG_1562.thumb.jpeg.b351690f67b59a1d086cddb6a4597790.jpeg" src="https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_2026_03/IMG_1562.thumb.jpeg.b351690f67b59a1d086cddb6a4597790.jpeg" /></a>
</p>

<p>
	I found 3 chunks of mahogany. I made one orchid basket from one piece with some left over. Mahogany is the choice for orchids. It lasts the longest and resists the fertilizers well. I will try the dumpster another day. I saw a lot of poplar scraps that I dont want.
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">44415</guid><pubDate>Sun, 08 Mar 2026 21:24:39 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>High contrast engraving</title><link>https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/44414-high-contrast-engraving/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	I remember seeing a video where they engraved an image into a pale wood like maple, covered it with a black wash, then sanded off the black from the surface leaving the engraved parts black and the rest pale white.
</p>

<p>
	I seem to recall that they used India ink.  I wouldn't want to use anything that soaked in too deep or that would be too difficult to sand off.
</p>

<p>
	Does anyone have a pointer to an article or video, or any advice?  I want to make a sign with my house number and beech tree logo.
</p>

<p>
	I'm leaning towards laser engraving or maybe CNC, or I could just print it on paper and engrave it by hand.
</p>

<p>
	I'll put some serious weather and UV protection over the whole thing, maybe spar varnish.
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">44414</guid><pubDate>Sat, 07 Mar 2026 06:29:40 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Greene and Greene Links</title><link>https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/44353-greene-and-greene-links/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	I wasn't sure where to put this so mods feel free to relocate . . . 
</p>

<p>
	I have been pinged on the forum and via PM's about G&amp;G and the influence it has had on my woodworking journey, as stumbling and bumbling as it may be.  I fell in love with G&amp;G over half a century ago.  The exaggerated joinery, the multiple elevations, the sliver wire inlays, the ebony spline, pegs and details . . .  There are folks who love Queen Anne and more power to them; not so much for me.
</p>

<p>
	A recent inquiry as to my G&amp;G studies and how I got around to making this stuff prompted me to take a trip into the past.  I dug out a few links that folks may enjoy.  Many are familiar with the Pasadena, CA bungalows (like the Gamble House famous from a few movies) but the Thorsen House north of Berkeley, the Darling Residence in Claremont, CA (just south of route 66 and about a 9-iron from where I grew up) are also grand examples (some restored and some maintained) of the early 1900s Craftsman style pushed to its zenith by the Greenes and the Halls.
</p>

<p>
	At any rate . . . have fun . . . 
</p>

<p>
	<a href="https://youtu.be/3yu1V6F1nLs" rel="external nofollow">https://youtu.be/3yu1V6F1nLs</a>
</p>

<p>
	<a href="https://youtu.be/GbcfMksFHhs" rel="external nofollow">https://youtu.be/GbcfMksFHhs</a>
</p>

<p>
	<a href="https://youtu.be/Ft8fTc6HabE" rel="external nofollow">https://youtu.be/Ft8fTc6HabE</a>
</p>

<p>
	<a href="https://youtu.be/Q7ikfqjGtdM" rel="external nofollow">https://youtu.be/Q7ikfqjGtdM</a>
</p>

<p>
	<a href="https://youtu.be/42oILp1bHlM" rel="external nofollow">https://youtu.be/42oILp1bHlM</a>
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">44353</guid><pubDate>Wed, 14 Jan 2026 21:39:34 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Wood species</title><link>https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/44413-wood-species/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	Is there anyone online that is good at identifying wood species?  We are bidding restoration of a barn and an architect is telling us the siding is white oak.   We are fairly certain it is not.   I dont have any end grain pics, just face pics.  
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">44413</guid><pubDate>Fri, 06 Mar 2026 03:01:05 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Poker table</title><link>https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/33326-poker-table/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	Got an itch…
</p>

<p style="color:#333333;font-size:14px;">
	Guess<span> </span>after all the down time, the only thing I had an interest in was building another poker table. We will<span> </span>see how this one turns out.
</p>

<p style="color:#333333;font-size:14px;">
	<a class="ipsAttachLink ipsAttachLink_image" href="https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_2022_10/image.jpeg.b7579b972514853dcb787ee3b8a16c90.jpeg" data-fileid="72357" data-fileext="jpeg" rel=""><img class="ipsImage ipsImage_thumbnailed" data-fileid="72357" data-ratio="75.00" width="800" alt="image.thumb.jpeg.177d58c11dc0dfb730a8b4fb201c92af.jpeg" src="https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_2022_10/image.thumb.jpeg.177d58c11dc0dfb730a8b4fb201c92af.jpeg" /></a>
</p>

<p style="color:#333333;font-size:14px;">
	 
</p>

<p style="color:#333333;font-size:14px;">
	 
</p>

<p style="color:#333333;font-size:14px;">
	<a href="https://thepatriotwoodworker.com/uploads/monthly_2022_09/20200827_162141_1598563477598.jpg.b600b601d24a383a4da1b80a1b5a318a.jpg" style="background-color:transparent;" rel="external nofollow"><img alt="20200827_162141_1598563477598.jpg" data-fileid="106213" data-ratio="75" style="border-style:none;vertical-align:middle;height:0px;" width="1200" src="https://thepatriotwoodworker.com/uploads/monthly_2022_09/20200827_162141_1598563477598.jpg.b600b601d24a383a4da1b80a1b5a318a.jpg" /></a>
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">33326</guid><pubDate>Tue, 25 Oct 2022 17:56:04 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Question About Filling Small Defects in Wood</title><link>https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/44392-question-about-filling-small-defects-in-wood/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	I was recently watching a YouTube video where the cabinet maker was making a beautiful piece that was covered in veneer. He used some sort of clear wood grain filler mixed with sawdust to fill small cracks in the veneer. In the past I've used PVA mixed with sawdust but was never satisfied with the results. I was very impressed with his results and would like to know if anybody can recommend alternatives to PVA....? 
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">44392</guid><pubDate>Fri, 20 Feb 2026 21:56:42 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Sliding Dovetails</title><link>https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/44393-sliding-dovetails/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	Would there be any issues with using sliding dovetails to join aprons to legs on coffee tables, end tables, night stands, etc., instead of mortise and tenon?
</p>

<p>
	Sure don't see it used much, but with a little glue, I would think it would be at LEAST as strong.
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">44393</guid><pubDate>Sun, 22 Feb 2026 12:46:38 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Solid wood rocking horse ornament</title><link>https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/44404-solid-wood-rocking-horse-ornament/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	My name is Barron Chen, and I'm from China. This is a wooden rocking horse figurine that I carved during the Chinese New Year this year. 2026 is the Year of the Horse in China. Wishing everyone a prosperous and lucky New Year!
</p>

<p>
	<img alt="1772266941828-015ef789-9f2e-43ad-a2be-21" class="ipsImage" data-ratio="133.33" height="600" width="450" src="https://image2url.com/r2/default/images/1772266941828-015ef789-9f2e-43ad-a2be-2155c07b580c.png" />
</p>

<p>
	<img alt="1772266969087-7ddbc67e-34ab-498a-a0e8-1d" class="ipsImage" data-ratio="133.33" height="600" width="450" src="https://image2url.com/r2/default/images/1772266969087-7ddbc67e-34ab-498a-a0e8-1d4becc758bd.png" />
</p>

<p>
	<img alt="1772266991817-3f6dcd73-c553-4e74-bb6e-dc" class="ipsImage" data-ratio="133.33" height="600" width="450" src="https://image2url.com/r2/default/images/1772266991817-3f6dcd73-c553-4e74-bb6e-dc3ec25c4f41.png" />
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">44404</guid><pubDate>Sat, 28 Feb 2026 08:23:46 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Garage cabinet</title><link>https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/44390-garage-cabinet/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	<a class="ipsAttachLink ipsAttachLink_image" href="https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_2026_02/IMG_1527.jpeg.24c4f99a8226659b764b6ecac7208771.jpeg" data-fileid="84632" data-fileext="jpeg" rel=""><img class="ipsImage ipsImage_thumbnailed" data-fileid="84632" data-ratio="75.00" width="800" alt="IMG_1527.thumb.jpeg.e98f312f863cc6a9dc03a8d6cbc7a191.jpeg" src="https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_2026_02/IMG_1527.thumb.jpeg.e98f312f863cc6a9dc03a8d6cbc7a191.jpeg" /></a>
</p>

<p>
	Neighbor emptied his years of junk accumulation and wants cabinets. His design. To be painted white by neighbor. The back is screwed on for ease of painting. 6 adjustable shelves. 2 extra shelves. Soft close blum hinges. So easy to adjust.
</p>

<p>
	<a class="ipsAttachLink ipsAttachLink_image" href="https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_2026_02/IMG_1529.jpeg.4844b6812813f20c9a25d5063ed9ac2a.jpeg" data-fileid="84630" data-fileext="jpeg" rel=""><img class="ipsImage ipsImage_thumbnailed" data-fileid="84630" data-ratio="133.33" width="600" alt="IMG_1529.thumb.jpeg.8991de2c98532d79669192ff8107d786.jpeg" src="https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_2026_02/IMG_1529.thumb.jpeg.8991de2c98532d79669192ff8107d786.jpeg" /></a><a class="ipsAttachLink ipsAttachLink_image" href="https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_2026_02/IMG_1528.jpeg.755f01bb3e3291e7b3b96cb8ba8a47a2.jpeg" data-fileid="84631" data-fileext="jpeg" rel=""><img class="ipsImage ipsImage_thumbnailed" data-fileid="84631" data-ratio="75.00" width="800" alt="IMG_1528.thumb.jpeg.fe287b7c7e3097c24e8e256193aecc80.jpeg" src="https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_2026_02/IMG_1528.thumb.jpeg.fe287b7c7e3097c24e8e256193aecc80.jpeg" /></a>
</p>

<p>
	<a class="ipsAttachLink ipsAttachLink_image" href="https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_2026_02/IMG_1530.jpeg.e0ed9f92e0390f54446fb85b272777b8.jpeg" data-fileid="84633" data-fileext="jpeg" rel=""><img class="ipsImage ipsImage_thumbnailed" data-fileid="84633" data-ratio="133.33" width="600" alt="IMG_1530.thumb.jpeg.d22aff340a90d26f3f92e7704cffa561.jpeg" src="https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/monthly_2026_02/IMG_1530.thumb.jpeg.d22aff340a90d26f3f92e7704cffa561.jpeg" /></a>
</p>

<p>
	above is a shot of the back of a door. The 1/4" plywood is not 1/4". It is 7/32nd. Which leaves a gap . So here is what I will try. First make some shims to force the panel tight on the face. Then shoot in 1/2" brads. Then caulk the gap. Any thoughts on this trick?
</p>

<p>
	First project in a long time. I still enjoy building. I have had a couple of stints in the hospital in the last 2 years. Including defeating prostate cancer. Before that I had covid with Ecoli. That caused rabdomyolysis. Damn near killed me. Defeated that to find out I had cancer.
</p>

<p>
	All better now!!
</p>

<p>
	Neighbor now wants a desk in the garage.
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">44390</guid><pubDate>Thu, 19 Feb 2026 12:32:58 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Clearing Out the Shop</title><link>https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/44385-clearing-out-the-shop/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	No, not mine but I am in the process of straightening things up a notch. <br />
	My younger brother just found out that he is in early stages of late onset Alzheimer’s and is being proactive while he still can. He has a three car garage that has never seen rubber tires for his woodworking shop and needs to vacate from floor to ceiling. He nor I have any serious woodworking friends and I have most of the tools that he has. <br />
	I’m sure he would just as soon give everything away as opposed to advertising on some national platform and having to box up and shipping things so would rather try and sell locally. <br />
	Anyone have any suggestions. He nor I have any Facebook experience but could study up on it if directed in that direction. Thanks in advance. 
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">44385</guid><pubDate>Thu, 12 Feb 2026 01:44:33 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Question About Grounding A Dust Collection System</title><link>https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/44382-question-about-grounding-a-dust-collection-system/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	I'm currently adding an addition to my workshop and I'm installing the dust collection lines under the (cement) floor. I'll be using 4" PVC for the lines and making every effort to avoid sharp corners in order to reduce air turbulence. A friend asked me how I intend to ground the collection lines, and I must admit that I never gave that a thought. Does anyone have any suggestions about how I should ground plastic pipe...?
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">44382</guid><pubDate>Sat, 07 Feb 2026 13:54:17 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Looking for ideas for a counter chair</title><link>https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/44369-looking-for-ideas-for-a-counter-chair/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	Hello. For a few days now, I've been thinking that I'd like to make (at some point) a counter chair for my friend's bar/restaurant: my own personal chair. I've been looking at the latest posts from Wood by Wright on Lost Art Press, where they're making Welsh-style chairs, and I really like them. I'm looking for ideas to achieve a similar backrest design (open fan-shaped slats/rods on a curved top with a low backrest), with a solid but elegant and light, slightly trapezoidal lower structure. I want to achieve something halfway between a classic Windsor style (too ornate) and modern (sometimes too simple). I'm debating between octagonal (I love octagons) or round legs and lower structure (I don't have a lathe, but I can do it by hand planing). I'm also torn between a flat seat or one shaped for the butt (sorry, I'm sure there's a more technical name for this, but I don't know it). My wood options for making it are red or white oak, perhaps accompanied by some beech accents. Perhaps oak for the legs and the rods that join them made of beech. I will make the curved piece of the backrest where the rods are inserted by gluing laminations together. The central lamination can be beech and the outer ones oak.
</p>

<p>
	I am completely ignorant when it comes to chairs and chair styles. Can you tell me what types of styles you like? Even something Asian/Japanese could be an option for me. As with many things, I want to dive in head first and present my restaurant owner friend with something I made myself. He knows that I am just starting out in traditional carpentry.
</p>

<p>
	Here are some images that I have seen and liked so far, and which I am using as a starting point.<br />
	<br />
	<img alt="No hay ninguna descripción de la foto disponible." data-ratio="100.00" width="1440" src="https://scontent.fmad6-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t51.82787-15/623409017_18557720857026063_1013601885182955119_n.jpg?stp=dst-jpegr_tt6&amp;_nc_cat=109&amp;ccb=1-7&amp;_nc_sid=127cfc&amp;_nc_ohc=36hYpKzgwJMQ7kNvwGH-EXF&amp;_nc_oc=Adn7UCvLLzyrG1hT9YFfxRt7xUZuZyWTXfD4w7gb_mvLEvgiC6lxpTnAfPioxKnpGcc&amp;_nc_zt=23&amp;se=-1&amp;_nc_ht=scontent.fmad6-1.fna&amp;_nc_gid=hgQZCU-d65kMBQ4HvPevxw&amp;oh=00_AfohQdnDPXnIIWncqJN8PsCmYfGWsnbDdKRs1tdbz197Og&amp;oe=69815FFB" /><br />
	<br />
	<img alt="Bar Stool - The Windsor Workshop" data-ratio="100.00" width="600" src="https://thewindsorworkshop.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/bar-stool-6x6-1.jpg" /><br />
	I really like this backrest.
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">44369</guid><pubDate>Thu, 29 Jan 2026 18:55:55 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>What did you get for Christmas???</title><link>https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/44329-what-did-you-get-for-christmas/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	OK, Paul started it in <em>What came in the mail today</em>, but what did everyone get for Christmas?
</p>

<p>
	I got a couple of little things from the kids. A new dowel plate, a new pencil sharpener and a Jessem height gauge knockoff. 
</p>

<p>
	I also bought myself a Bambu Labs P1S (with AMS) on Black Friday, so the wife said that it was going to be for Christmas as well. I've learned not to argue the small stuff. <img alt=":D" data-emoticon="" height="20" src="https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/emoticons/default_biggrin.png" srcset="https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/emoticons/biggrin@2x.png 2x" title=":D" width="20" />
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">44329</guid><pubDate>Sat, 27 Dec 2025 22:02:37 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Klingspor Flat Rate Shipping @ $3.50</title><link>https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/44350-klingspor-flat-rate-shipping-350/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	I just wanted to share.  Available till an unannounced date.  I thought we had a sub-forum for "Deals and Discounts" but, my marbles continue to flow out <img alt=":D" data-emoticon="" height="20" src="https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/emoticons/default_biggrin.png" srcset="https://www.woodtalkonline.com/uploads/emoticons/biggrin@2x.png 2x" title=":D" width="20" />.  At any rate the flat rate shipping and the fact that i just pulled my last sheet of 800 grit wet/dry out of the drawer gave me pause.  A quick inventory of my abrasives showed a few items that were running short for power sanding.  At any rate I loaded up a small cart and cashed in on the shipping discount.  I think their regular flat rate is $8.50 which often stops me from using them.  Love the products so when the special is on, I tend to notice.
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">44350</guid><pubDate>Tue, 13 Jan 2026 16:49:06 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Thin Kerf vs Full Kerf</title><link>https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/44349-thin-kerf-vs-full-kerf/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	I have a Jet 1 3/4 hp table saw which I am completely happy with. Because of the limited hp, I use a Freud thin kerf 30t, glue line 10” blade for most of my cuts. I just ordered another of the same as the carbide teeth are about flush with the blade. It started me wondering, why would anyone use a full kerf blade? Due to the stability of the thickness? I don’t baby my rip cuts, just even flow with less wood removed. I’m sure I’m missing something? 
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">44349</guid><pubDate>Tue, 13 Jan 2026 02:37:56 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Strengthen leg joint after glue up</title><link>https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/44348-strengthen-leg-joint-after-glue-up/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	<span style="background-color:#ffffff;color:#191500;font-size:14px;">I am working on a table and my leg assembly (pictured) is 4 legs joined to a central hub. Each leg is attached with 6, 1/2 inch dowels. (see pre assembly photo) The assembly is strong. But, the table top is very heavy.<span> </span></span><br style="color:#191500;font-size:14px;" />
	<br style="color:#191500;font-size:14px;" />
	<span style="background-color:#ffffff;color:#191500;font-size:14px;">I was considering drilling a long 1/2 inch hole through the legs and into the assembly at an angle. Then i would glue in a solid walnut 1/2 inch dowel. See the red line in the attached photo for where dowel would go.<span> </span></span><br style="color:#191500;font-size:14px;" />
	<br style="color:#191500;font-size:14px;" />
	<span style="background-color:#ffffff;color:#191500;font-size:14px;">My thinking is that the dowel at a different angle than the others i used to assemble it would help with compression force on the joint. Is this a good idea, or will it not help add any strength?</span>
</p>

<p>
	 
</p>

<p>
	<a href="https://www.lumberjocks.com/threads/adding-strength-to-a-joint-after-glue-up.364454/?post_id=2549388&amp;nested_view=1#post-2549388" rel="external nofollow">Photos</a>
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">44348</guid><pubDate>Mon, 12 Jan 2026 00:25:35 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>how to &#x201C;raise&#x201D; over and unevenly sanded solid oak antique table leaves so now they are 1/8" below table frame and uneven</title><link>https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/44338-how-to-%E2%80%9Craise%E2%80%9D-over-and-unevenly-sanded-solid-oak-antique-table-leaves-so-now-they-are-18-below-table-frame-and-uneven/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>
	I used a belt sander for the first time and took off way!!! too much wood from 2 white oak table leaves.  They still fit in the table frame but are unevenly sanded and 1/8” below the frame!  Since the original leaves are wide (36”) with hand-made tongues and groves that fit into the table frame, I do NOT want to replace them.  I would like to raise and level the surface with a product that will allow the natural wood to be seen.  I‘d like recommendations for a polyurethane or other product that’s easy to work with and will do the job.  It can take a few days to dry as I have a protected area where they can dry.  
</p>

<p>
	I’d also like recommendations on the best way to protect the tongues and grooves (both on the leaves and on the table frame, so whatever product doesn’t gum or guck them up.
</p>

<p>
	Thank you and Happy New Year blessings!
</p>

<p>
	JJ
</p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">44338</guid><pubDate>Wed, 07 Jan 2026 14:45:38 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[3D printer filament for shop tools & jigs?]]></title><link>https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/44199-3d-printer-filament-for-shop-tools-jigs/</link><description><![CDATA[<div>
	<p>
		I'm about to buy a 3D printer (Bambu P1S).  I don't have any printer experience and thought i'd check if anyone here has one.  I'm particularly curious which filament types fellow woodworkers may recommend for various shop tools/jigs.
	</p>

	<p>
		Some examples i intend on printing are:
	</p>

	<ul>
		<li>
			<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3772671" rel="external nofollow">No-Twist Pads for F clamps</a>
		</li>
		<li>
			<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3813582" rel="external nofollow">Soft vice jaws</a>
		</li>
		<li>
			<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4848299" rel="external nofollow">Dado kerf width jig</a>
		</li>
		<li>
			<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5276449" rel="external nofollow">Corner radius templates</a>
		</li>
		<li>
			<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5200208" rel="external nofollow">Table &amp; miter saw zero clearance inserts</a>
		</li>
		<li>
			<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3292865" rel="external nofollow">Featherboards</a>
		</li>
		<li>
			<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5316578" rel="external nofollow">Blast gates</a>
		</li>
		<li>
			<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3183403" rel="external nofollow">T Track hold down</a>
		</li>
		<li>
			<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2952364" rel="external nofollow">round stock center finder</a>
		</li>
		<li>
			<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4902994" rel="external nofollow">Band clamp corners</a>
		</li>
		<li>
			<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4647467" rel="external nofollow">Drawer for table saw rail</a>
		</li>
		<li>
			<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5206838" rel="external nofollow">various sanding block sizes</a>
		</li>
		<li>
			<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:736275" rel="external nofollow">HF shop press handle holder</a>
		</li>
	</ul>
</div>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">44199</guid><pubDate>Fri, 12 Sep 2025 03:48:11 +0000</pubDate></item></channel></rss>
