Jig & Fixtures Latest Topics

Proposed jig question

Mon, 26 Jan 2026 03:00:52 +0000

I've got a part I make where the process is plane, rip and plane again to get 1 1/4" square sticks.

Then put the sticks on my CNC router and have it pocket out holes that I will eventually press in steel dowels.

Then I use a table router to get the cross section of the photo I'm posting. In the photo it is 1/2" radius for the top corners, and the bottom corners are cut out to give a 1/2" wide rib that is just short of 1/2" deep that goes into a matching slot.

After that, I'll cut them on the table saw with a cross-cut sled. I'm using an 80 tooth 10" blade.

I want to be able to smooth the ends, but trying to sand them with an random orbit sander has given me less than flat surfaces with enough of a radiused edge that when I use these parts, the threads tend to get caught between the individual blocks.

I'm thinking a jig out of plastic (I've got a lot of blue nylon I can use to machine a jig) and using a sharp and wide hand chisel to clean up the end might work.

Am I on the right track here, or is there a better option?

Edit: I'm going to be switching to a 9/16" radius router bit for a rounder profile but leaving enough of a flat to make it not such a pain to use the router table.

Most used tool/jig in my shop

Sun, 22 Feb 2026 17:54:29 +0000

For short rips 4 or 5' this is easy.

1.5" particle board. 4 x 6. Very flat. Not attached. Above it is pushed forward and exposes my trestle. better than 2 more hands. When there is a pair of strong hands near and the bench is clear I will have the helper lift one end so I can spray silicone in the friction places. And then the other end...

The trestle slides up and a bolt is screwed into a t-nut.

With the trestle in place means most of the work is me alone.

If I had a bigger space all of this is not needed. A lot of us do struggle with small shops. When my lotto ticket comes in I'm building a bigger shop.

The simple steps for making a decorative peachwood sword

Tue, 14 Oct 2025 08:28:42 +0000

The vise has arrived! I'll install it right away and get started on making a peach-wood sword.
Required tools: Wood (avoid wood that's excessively hard), a handsaw, a utility knife, sandpaper (80-grit, 200-grit, 600-grit), and a pencil (for drawing the sketch).

How I made a Mariner Style Floor Lamp

Thu, 25 Sep 2025 17:41:56 +0000

Some time ago, I posted a video on a taper sled that I used to make the pieces for a Mariner Lamp. Here is a video on how to make the Mariner lamp: https://youtu.be/8rmGR6NpbgI

Taper Sled

Thu, 13 Jun 2024 20:36:03 +0000

Way back in 2009, when I worked for a living, I made two of these Mariner Lamps. All the pieces are tapered to give it the right look. Being in a hurry I didn't think I had time to make a taper sled, so the tapers were cut on bandsaw and cleaned up on jointer. Would have been faster to make a taper sled.

Now I got asked to make another Mariner lamp. Being retired I have more time to stop and think of what new tools or jigs would help me do a project faster/better/safer. So searched around of a taper sled and found some good ideas but no sled that had everything I wanted. One important thing, for SawStop users, is no metal clamps anywhere near the blade - I have made that mistake once already. The tapered pieces for the Mariner lamp are quite thin so toggle clamps as used on most taper sleds, are excluded. Here is the sled design I came up with, and it is working well. https://youtu.be/ZPvOOIRFEQc

Cambered Clamping Cauls

Wed, 17 Sep 2025 22:30:48 +0000

I'm making some cambered clamping cauls for a glue-up where I can't get a clamp into the middle of the piece. I figure I'll keep these around for future glue-ups.

9 out of 10 YouTubers (including Marc) say to just cut a straight sloped line from the center out to either end, using a table saw, jointer, or hand plane. A couple people used a jig to bend the caul slightly and cut a straight line on the bent caul. When the caul is released from the jig, it will be curved, and the curve will become straight when it is clamped and bent again.

It seems to me that the straight line method will only apply pressure at the center and ends. I'm inclined to go with the bending jig method. But maybe I'm just wasting time and effort. 9 out 10 YouTubers can be wrong, but it's just as likely that I am.

Any thoughts?

Canyon Fire Micro Jig

Mon, 11 Aug 2025 23:45:24 +0000

I saw this in one of Marc's videos and decided to put it on my list to Mrs. Clause last Christmas.

t is easy to mount and operate. One end has a magnet that will attach it to the "T" part of your T-Fence on your table saw. The other end has a slot for a MagSwitch. To make a fine adjustment you just release your lock lever on your fence and turn the MagSwitch to "on" and use the thumb wheel to make your fine adjustment. I didn't know how much I would really use it but having had it for 8 months now I am sold. It sure beats slapping your fence back and forth. If you go to make a big move with your fence and didn't turn the MagSwitch "off" you will know it, your fence will not move...at all.

Can you Fire Micro Adjuster 95 LB. MagSwitch

Printing Full Size Plans

Tue, 08 Feb 2022 21:34:08 +0000

I would like to make some Morley bar stools and wondering if anyone has used the "full Size" or "Large print" pdf's on the Guild site to have full size prints done somewhere. If you have what do I need to do just save the file to a thumb drive? Who can print them Kinko's? Thanks!

Rectangle router template

Sat, 19 Apr 2025 18:13:50 +0000

Anyone have a favorite design for an adjustable rectangle router template? I figure four pieces of wood with four butt joints, that can slide to make any size rectangle. I can't figure out how to make a locking slide that doesn't stick out the top. The router base might be large to span the template when the bit is in the middle of the rectangle, so the top of the template needs to be flat so the router can get to the edges.

Am I making sense?

Bench Dog/Vise alternative

Sat, 15 Mar 2025 01:26:22 +0000

I don’t normally copy/paste videos from EweTube, but this one is so ingenious, and so simple, I have to. I will be making one.

https://www.facebook.com/share/v/15vLyREcfv/

Morse auccijoint box joint jig

Tue, 04 Mar 2025 23:29:39 +0000

I have a Morse accujoint box joint jig, I’ve had it several years, I forgot I even had it. Anyway does anybody have the directions/instructions on how to use and setup?

Matchfit clamp slides in dovetail track

Mon, 29 Apr 2024 20:40:01 +0000

I built a miter saw station with fold-out wings, and I put MatchFit dovetail slots in the wings for stops. But when I clamp a piece of wood to the wing with a MatchFit clamp to act as a stop, I find that it slides in the track no matter how hard I tighten the clamp. There may be some sawdust in the track, but still I wouldn't expect it to slide when it's clamped down. I used a MatchFit router bit to make the slots.

Also, when I use the MatchFit dovetail track nuts I find that they bind up into the dovetail, and in order to move them I need to knock them back down into the track.

All in all, I'm getting kinda frustrated with the MatchFit system, and reconsidering my decision to go with MatchFit instead of T-track.

Any advice, thoughts, comments?

Anyone know where I can get a threaded pin for a circle cutting jig?

Sun, 04 Aug 2024 23:50:30 +0000

Like in the photo below, with 10-32 thread. It's for a circle cutting jig and I lost mine. Or even what they are called so I can search for them - I'm having no luck. TIA.

Jig to hold picture frames

Fri, 02 Aug 2024 15:07:03 +0000

I made several fixtures like this to hold frames while I finished them, I was building a lot of them at the time and needed to get the finished ones out of the shop to continue working, made some long so I could put 3 to 4 frames on one fixture, simple enough, used finish nails drove in and sharpened the points, to use it squeeze one side with your hands or a clamp and tighten the wing nut, do the same thing with the other end , it lets you finish the whole frame and move it to a dust free area to dry

Thingamajig

Sun, 15 Jan 2023 21:44:04 +0000

Figure it out as I go.

Tool Holder and Charging Station

Fri, 16 Feb 2024 01:48:58 +0000

I need to get my battery operated drills and drivers organized along with a battery charging station. Could some of you guys post pics of how you did this? Thanks

Clamping Blocks for Uneven Pairs

Fri, 05 Jan 2024 15:44:04 +0000

For a previous project I made some custom clamping cauls for some irregular shaped legs.

Custom cauls are great and are often the answer. While preparing for a similar clamping challenge I had a thought . . . I cut some half-circles from some thick scrap on the bandsaw and shellacked them.

I attached some self-stick anti-slip rubber mat.

I will use these for gentle irregularities where opposing surfaces are not parallel.

I doubt they will tolerate severe angles; there are other methods for that. They seem to work well for surfaces that are somewhat out of plane.

Big Sled in Use

Tue, 20 Feb 2024 19:35:43 +0000

I have shown this before during other threads. Just to stir up some conversation and hopefully provide some value I am posting it separately. I don't use this beast often but it hangs on pegs near the tablesaw and is handy now and again.

When you need to cut larger panels the sled comes off the saw quite a bit. To make things less of a juggling act this support tongue is used.

I also have a piece of stock that is the same height as the sled base. A couple of rare earth magnets and some plastic dip smeared on for traction support larger panels that extend beyond the sled.

The whole affair looks like so.

This makes nice, true, larger panel cuts a snap.

I often do these cuts with a guided circ saw but I am doing multiple projects right now. There seems to be stuff everywhere.

At any rate I get the panels I need and can carry on.

It took longer to take the pics than to cut the panels . My thought in posting is that this puts a large sled example in an easily searchable place for future or returning visitors.

Matchfit Sled for Grandpa's Saw

Sat, 19 Dec 2020 20:38:04 +0000

I plan to use this old Craftsman 113. saw (that Grandpa bought new) as a task specific cross-cut and joinery station. I needed something that could hold all sorts of thing all sorts of ways.

I wouldn't have all these things on here at once. This is just for the pic .

The rear fence blocks one of the slots so I routed an easement that lets a clamp drop in at that location.

Here's a tip for any of you who use wood or UHMW runners. For wood, I shellac the runners along with the underside of the sled. Then I run a felt tip mark down both sides of both runners.

Slide the sled back and forth a few times. The ink rubs off where the runners are tight. A card scraper makes quick work of removing a little material in those areas.

I find getting to a smooth, well sliding sled goes pretty quick this way.

Micro-Adjustable Stop Block

Wed, 15 Nov 2023 22:25:29 +0000

I have a few different types of stop blocks and all of them excel in one way or another. My micro-adjustable versions have always used a screw or a bolt in a t-nut and these work most of the time. The times they don't work is when the head of the screw or bolt does not reliably contact my material due to thickness or shape. I am currently watching paint dry between coats so I had some time to percolate a bit. This hang-time is really letting me crush my to-do lists .

Grab a piece of scrap from the butcher block bar top I made for my neighbor's relative a while back. Mill it square and drill a 13/64" through the middle.

Drill two 3/16" holes for guides. This will make more sense in a sec.

Add some MatchFit dovetail slots.

Cut the block in half.

Go to the junk can and grab some hardware. A knob, a nylon lock nut, two washers, a bit of aluminum rod, a t-nut, and a piece of 10-32 threaded rod.

It goes together like so.

You place the stop block in the approximate position you need and clamp the right hand side.

Every half rotation of the knob equals about 1/64".

Once micro-adjusted, clamp the other side of the fixture.

I have needed this for a while. It had become one of those to-do list items that never got done . . . . No More!

Leigh dovetail jig

Fri, 22 Sep 2023 14:26:10 +0000

Didn’t the older D24 come with a template to start?

Craftsman router crafter

Mon, 27 Dec 2021 01:02:33 +0000

Anybody ever combine two of these.

Spring Hinge Feather Board for ReSaw on Bandsaw

Thu, 07 Sep 2023 16:08:17 +0000

Made this "feather board" for re-saw on bandsaw. Works good and handy when re-sawing a long board.

The pressure comes from spring hinges. The hinges maintain uniform pressure over a range of 1 inch which allows for lots of variation in wood thickness. The spring tension on the hinges is adjustable. The hinges are D&D Technologies TruClose® Gate Hinges, Model TCA3S3RC, available from Home Depot, Amazon, and others.

Details and demo starting at 1m43s in this video https://youtu.be/S3L-7cU1kAo

Bevel Sled Rebuild

Thu, 24 Aug 2023 00:52:50 +0000

This is a rambling tale so feel free to skip ahead. I got lazy and left the HVAC weep drain termination point (small outdoor French drain) stay on the "To-Do" list too long. Result? Weeds grew around the end of the pipe, dirt collected around the weeds courtesy of the wind and the end of the pipe got buried. The drain tube filled up and the inside unit dripped inside . . . right on the bevel sled that was hanging from the cleat peg rack. I knew I shouldn't have run cleats under the unit but I wanted the space . Fixed/finished the drain but the sled was trashed.

I needed a bevel sled the other day and I am still waiting for finish to cure on a current project. Our bout of weird weather really altered my usual finishing protocol timeline.

I told you it would be a rambling tale . . .

Be that as it may; I dug an old small scale sled of dad's out of one of the outbuildings to see if I could recover it. With the current cost of BB ply I am more prone to up-cycle discarded items lately.

The sled was scaled for dad's old Zip Code saw so the runners and deck would need some love. Once I pulled the front and rear fences I was left with two panels that were just a smidge shy of what I wanted. I added some strips of ply and then glued everything up just like any other panel glue up.

I epoxied strips of scrap into the kerfs in the dummy-block . . .

. . . and the front fence.

Dad's version did not have replaceable inserts. There was some discussion in another thread about making jigs do multiple jobs. Replaceable ZCI's in sleds lets this happen. I don't have room to store half a dozen one-trick-ponies. I use a router and a dado jig to cut the 3" wide recess for the ZCI.

I then temporarily place the fence and layout the dado for the fence.

I have to cut a 90 degree position to allow me to use the 5-cut method to align the fence. I do this without the inserts in place.

I found that the fence would not adjust enough to get me well aligned. I turned the 3/8" holes into 3/8" slots at the drill press. I use the original hole to line up the bit position and place the fence and a stop.

The I slip a couple of 3/16" setup bars between the sled base and the fence to reposition the material.

The result is a slightly overlapping set of holes. BTW, dad had t-track on his sled so I kept that.

I chisel the holes into a slot. Now I have plenty of room to get things well aligned. Once I am happy with the fence position I install the inserts and make a 45 degree cut. 45 degree bevels will be the bulk of this sleds job. Other inserts can be swapped in and out for other angles.
I rip a piece of scrap ply to test the alignment at 45 degrees. I put on a couple of flip stops at random lengths, clamp down the scrap and cut my first bevel.

I cut a couple of short pieces . . .

. . . and a couple of long ones.

Like so.

OK, the miters are tight and consistent along all edges . .. success!

When it is not in use it hangs from one of the new batch of cleat pegs (on a wall that does not have an indoor unit on it ).

Cleat Pegs

Tue, 01 Aug 2023 15:42:58 +0000

I get asked about these now and again and apparently never posted a build on these. They were made in the garage while I was between shops.

Dimensions are nominal.

When I make these sorts of things I make a batch (should have made more).

I use a strip of old gift card to make a consistent space to allow free sliding movement.

Tilt the drill press and drill the peg hole with a Forstner. I drill an 1/8" shy of the back and use glue and a screw to hold the peg.

The peg passes through most of two layers of 3/4" ply so the screw is just a retainer, not a strength fastener. As you can see I make these out of any properly sized plywood scrap I happen to have around.

Here is one on a cleat.

Just demonstrating the sliding feature.

Despite making more than I thought I would ever need . . .

It turns out I need some more.

These have to be slid all the way to the end of the cleat to remove them. I chose this method rather than making them removable-in-place and using some sort of retaining pin like I do on more task specific cleat fixtures. I keep a couple of unused cleats on each rail for flexible use.

There are a couple of places where I have heavy objects hanging from the fixtures near the end of the cleat. I put a small washer at the end of the cleat as an emergency stop. Probably unnecessary but I am a belt-and-suspenders kinda guy. I'm not a pessimist. I just live where the ground tends to do the Watusi on a monthly basis