Product Reviews

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  1. SawStop T-Square fence

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  2. Guidematic for dremel

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  3. DeWalt Flexvolt

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  4. Milwaukee's OneKey...

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    • I suggest putting the fence about 2" forward of the trailing edge, and attach it with a single screw next to the cut line. Then glue a block to the corner of the sled, behind the fence, a little less than 2" wide. Drill through the block horizontally and run a bolt through from the rear to push against the fence and serve as a fine adjustment screw. I have poor results attempting to make minute adjustments by hand.
    • I think Gary is correct. Clean off any excess stain and let the surface dry, coat it with dewaxed shellac, then gel stain over that. The piece will look almost as if it were painted, but it should even the color out a good bit.
    • Chet, do you have the ottoman in your future plans?  Hell of a job so far.
    • I finished the back rest, for the most part, which was the last major part of the project to take care of.   I didn't follow the guild plans here, I when with wider slats, 3 inches top and bottom and 2 inches wide on the four in the middle, I also went with staight side rails for the backrest to keep the design closer to the older style Morris chairs.   I do need to do a little fit and finish on the slats.  After that I need to chamfer the arms and the back rest parts and then a far amount of sanding before I start the glue up.  
    • Windsor chair seat blanks.  Windsor chairs are painted, so the grain doesn't matter a bit.  It's no trouble finding seat blanks, but we need at least 20 of them, and they typically go for a hundred bucks a piece, already dried.  These trees are large enough to get quarter sawn, one piece seat blanks out of, without the pith, and they need to come down anyway.  We have the years to dry them before I can get to making the chairs anyway.  I have absolutely no use for the wood from these trees for anything else, nor does anyone else involved.
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