Product Reviews

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  1. Bessey Uni-Clamp

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  2. iOptiCut app review

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  3. Fractional Calculator

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  4. Iwasaki wood files

    • 4 replies
    • 1485 views
  5. Veritas jointer fence

    • 4 replies
    • 1854 views
  6. Sorbothane mallet

    • 4 replies
    • 1406 views
  7. Mc Feely's

    • 4 replies
    • 1420 views
  8. Beading tools

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  9. DeWalt Flexvolt

    • 4 replies
    • 2956 views




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    • This is roughly the process I use with Arm R Seal and have always had good results.  I finished my desk top (roughly 7’x3’) with ARS Satin. I think I added a bit of mineral spirits to the ARS (in a separate cup) and applied 4 thin coats. Coming up on 2 years and it doesn’t show any signs of wear. Plates, cups, mugs, etc have been left on it and slid around on it. My toddler loves to flip my keyboard around, and plays with all sorts of toys on it.  
    • Thanks so much for the replies! @drzaius I already purchased and cut the wood so I must go down the birch path, but thanks for the suggestion. Its going to be a pretty large corner desk with 3 pieces, the wings are 6'x2.5' and the middle is 3'x2.5'. should I cut the Arm-R-Seal with mineral spirits to get a little more working time, or should it be fine without it? I'm very new to this so any sanding suggestions would be appreciated.
    • A finish that we used at the cabinet shop was Emmet’s “Good Stuff”. It's a urethane based product, that is wiped on. The company that we bought BB tops from highly  recommended it. 
    • +1 to @drzaius. Wipe-on poly is almost idiot-proof, and provides a durable finish. I've used General Finishes Arm-R-Seal, as well as Minwax Wipe-On Polyurathane. The appearance and durability is pretty much the same, although I found the Arm-R-Seal a little more difficult to apply. The directions for Arm-R-Seal suggest flooding on a heavy coat and wiping away the excess, but even at a room temp of 75 degrees (F), I found that it 'tacked up' to quickly to self-level when doing this with a rag. I had better luck applying it with a foam brush, laying it on heavy, then lightly going back with just the tip of the brush.  For Miwax Wipe-On, I use a rag moistened with mineral spirits. I wipe it on in circles to fill in the grain pores, then lightly wipe with the grain to level it out. Makes a thin coat, so I repeat until the desired build is achieved. Minwax seems to tack up more slowly, but is dry enough to scuff-sand and re-coat more quickly. I said all that to support this: Experiment on something besides your shiny new desk top before you apply a finish you aren't experienced with!
    • im in the process of either upgrading or the very least rearranging my system. after talking to the people at Oneida, they told that the HP involved with DC units is misleading the way that it has nothing to do with how much suction you're going to get. It is that The larger the propeller inside the motor requires more HP to spin. So yes that will mean, larger fans = more airflow = better suction. but if you're in a small shop with just a few tools, you don't need a huge fan moving air through 6" - 8" pipes. 
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