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    • "Grund" -dispersion primer  "In contrast to conventional paints, the feel and appearance continue to be reminiscent of a raw, finely ground wood.  The best result is achieved with a previous primer by Bona White.  Enjoy the feeling of natural wood."
    • It seems to me that Americans have a better experience with shellac than in Europe, so I raised the topic. I am happy with the information I have received from you so far.
    • My goto blade for years was a Systimatic 40T 4ATB+R until the saw shop ground the rakers to oblivion. Needing a blade fast I ended up with a Tenryu of the same geometry. Nothing special there; it will be replaced soon, probably with a Freud if I can't get something better. Forrest maybe -- if I feel rich.
    • Sums up my experience with Japanese saws. Some people love them. Give me a Disston #4.
    • I took a look at some catalog photos and, sure enough, ECE has cheapened up and gone to cross dowels versus the traditional wedge mortise (not right, but my brain is not finding the right word at the moment). This makes me wonder if they have also moved away from tapered blades. That would be a real loss if they have, but tapered blades are harder to make and we are all so eager to get tools cheaper these days. With this plane you really want a tapered blade, with the cross dowel it doesn't matter so much, even a tapered blade will wiggle loose after a while because there is less bearing surface to exert friction on it. A source for tapered blades is: https://redrosereproductions.com/tapered-bench-plane-irons/ It will cost you around $80 if they have one that fits. I suspect the taper is ground on these, old pre-20th century blades would have been forged that way. An alternative is eBay. Search for "tapered plane blade" or "tapered plane iron" and you will find a lot of choices from 100+ years ago. many of these come from discarded planes, mostly in England where they still value these things. Here they just go to the dump. I threatened to explain why you want a tapered blade, nobody asked, so I will do the brain download anyway. If you compare the blade to the wedge that holds it you will see that the tapers are in opposition to each other. When you push on the plane, if the blade shifts at all it won't shift much before it gets locked in place due to the opposing tapers. Contrast that to the Krenov style plane with a flat blade and cross-dowel. There is nothing to increase the pressure if the blade slips; it just goes on slipping. This makes these planes disagreeable to adjust. You have to drive in the wedge a lot harder which puts more stress on the plane. And with the wedge driven in so hard, it's harder to finesse the blade in place to take that paper thin shaving we all crave. No disrespect for Mr. Krenov. He brought back the craft from the dead (with a little help from others) and there were good reasons to design a plane that budding woodworkers could make with little skill and still get satisfactory results.
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