Topics

Sign in to follow this  

2 topics in this forum

  1. Storage and backup 1 2

    • 32 replies
    • 954 views
    • 11 replies
    • 767 views
Sign in to follow this  




  • Topics

  • Posts

    • OK here goes... This will be a combination of post because I'm working on several different things that weave together. I will first build a chair out of scrap 2x4. As I said, I hope to make all of my mistakes with it. I'm still working on the G700 setup and I have finished what I will call phase one. Because the shop is in such a state of flux I decided to run a 20' flex pipe. This was purchased from Rocker several years ago and I had never used it. I connected the two sections with a coupler, attached one end to the G700 and the other end has been connected to my DeWalt DW746X tablesaw and my Hammer A3-31 planer/jointer (NOTE I'm only connecting to one machine at any time for now, thus I'm moving the hose from one machine to the other). First I had enclosed the tablesaw, the image of the tablesaw does not show all of the sealing I did. Partly because I'm anal at times (this was one of those times) most likely I went overboard. This took me a few days partly because of health, some days I can work several hours and other days I only last a few minutes. I've completed the sealing except for the tilt opens, yesterday I received some magnetic sheets I had ordered. Hopefully today I will finish. Currently, I do NOT have any collection above the blade and it is needed. When I connect the G700 to the saw it does a super job of collecting MOST of the dust. The only thing I see is what comes from the blade. I'm not sure just when I will tackle this, I have to think about the solution I want to implement and thinking is hard. The A3-31 presented another issue in that the port was not a standard US size and the only solution seemed to be placing an order with Felder (Hammer) for a fitting. This was going to be VERY expensive so I decided to make a custom fitting. I remeasured the port on the A3-31 (4.765"). I went to Lowes and purchased various a section of PVC in different sizes. I purchased several different sizes because I was going to make custom fittings for several different tools. Ops, I don't know how to get the images inline with the text.  I need to glue-up some 2x6's to make a jig. In the image of the jigs, the one on the left was for a custom fitting on my bandsaw, the one on the right was for the A3-31. These were turned on my wood lathe. I tuned a recess in the top of the jig (see the image of both jigs) so I could insert the jaws of my chuck. I was then able to turn the other end to reduce the fitting. NOTE: It may be possible to expand the pipe without a jig "if" is a small amount. I tried but failed, possibly because I did not get the pipe hot enough, later I will experiment more with this. Using a heat gun (I had a dual setting heat gun that I purchased from Ace Hardware several years ago), wearing gloves (a this is going to get HOT), continuously rotate the pipe and apply heat. At some point you will see the PVC starting to constrict, test the flexibility and when it easily flexes turn off the heat gun, push the fitting onto the jig (NOTE I discovered that it is best to securely clamp the jig in a vice) and let it cool. Now it was time for a test fit, looks GOOD! After the pipe cooled (if you remove the fitting before it cools the shape will change as it further cools), I repeated the preceding for the end I needed to reduce. Again let it cool. Now it was time to connect everything. At this time I was happy but did notice that the fitting I made was a bit loose when I put it on the A3-31 port. I disconnected the fitting, reheated the expanded end (this is the end that goes on the A3-31), when it started to constrict and was flexible I pushed it on the A3-31 fitting and let it cool. Now I had a very tight fit, perfect!
    • The centering vise isn't that expensive for the rockler kit it adds ~$60 to the cost. The drill guide is the big cost and the tool that i think is more innovative. For larger items that wouldn't work well on a drill press due to size the guide makes it east to do at a work bench. The other application that stuck me as being awesome is the angle adjustment on it. For drilling holes for seat slats say on a maloof rocker or Windsor chair this jig might make things a lot easier. Unnecessary yes as home made jigs and other methods work but then there is the domino.
    • Drew I have a version of that (much cheaper) that I use at my drill press and it works great for pen tubes anything bigger I use a drill chuck on the lathe. Mine is closer to this https://www.amazon.com/Blank-Centering-Drilling-Center-Blanks/dp/B003VHWKYS
    • Gotcha. As long as you don't need to move anything it would work great. In my shop I do move the bandsaws, J/P, and drum sander on a pretty regular basis which is why I didn't do that side of the shop. FWIW they are pretty thin like 5/16ths, I think and I don't ever recall tripping on them, my own feet yes but not the floor tiles lol.
    • Totally agree!  An RichardA's advice about keeping it simple is spot-on.  Find something that works for you. I can only relay my experience - I started with wet-dry sandpaper on pieces of plate glass  (I seem to recall I went all the way up to 2000 grit, but don't hold me to that).  This is also known as the "scary sharp" method (look it up, there are a lot of videos on this).  This was a good way for me to get going, somewhat inexpensively, and allow me to work with sharp edges and know what it meant to have a sharp tool.  The knock against scary sharp is that long-term the cost of the paper can add up.  True, but like anything it depends on how much work you get to do and how much sharpening you need to do.  Using the sandpaper/glass method let me decide when to get into some waterstones and the associated intricacies of using them - how to store them, how to keep them flat, etc.  But using the SS method let me become accustomed to waterstones on my own terms and timeline.  Now, I use waterstones pretty much exclusively - and if I decide to get new or different stones, I have a baseline of what to expect of what works for me. One recommendation I'll make is to get a decent honing guide (I use the Veritas MKII and I like it, but there are a lot of good options out there).  You'll be able to make use of it with pretty much any sharpening medium you choose. Good luck, and let us know what you decide to use.
  • Popular Contributors