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    • It seems to me that Americans have a better experience with shellac than in Europe, so I raised the topic. I am happy with the information I have received from you so far.
    • My goto blade for years was a Systimatic 40T 4ATB+R until the saw shop ground the rakers to oblivion. Needing a blade fast I ended up with a Tenryu of the same geometry. Nothing special there; it will be replaced soon, probably with a Freud if I can't get something better. Forrest maybe -- if I feel rich.
    • Sums up my experience with Japanese saws. Some people love them. Give me a Disston #4.
    • I took a look at some catalog photos and, sure enough, ECE has cheapened up and gone to cross dowels versus the traditional wedge mortise (not right, but my brain is not finding the right word at the moment). This makes me wonder if they have also moved away from tapered blades. That would be a real loss if they have, but tapered blades are harder to make and we are all so eager to get tools cheaper these days. With this plane you really want a tapered blade, with the cross dowel it doesn't matter so much, even a tapered blade will wiggle loose after a while because there is less bearing surface to exert friction on it. A source for tapered blades is: https://redrosereproductions.com/tapered-bench-plane-irons/ It will cost you around $80 if they have one that fits. I suspect the taper is ground on these, old pre-20th century blades would have been forged that way. An alternative is eBay. Search for "tapered plane blade" or "tapered plane iron" and you will find a lot of choices from 100+ years ago. many of these come from discarded planes, mostly in England where they still value these things. Here they just go to the dump. I threatened to explain why you want a tapered blade, nobody asked, so I will do the brain download anyway. If you compare the blade to the wedge that holds it you will see that the tapers are in opposition to each other. When you push on the plane, if the blade shifts at all it won't shift much before it gets locked in place due to the opposing tapers. Contrast that to the Krenov style plane with a flat blade and cross-dowel. There is nothing to increase the pressure if the blade slips; it just goes on slipping. This makes these planes disagreeable to adjust. You have to drive in the wedge a lot harder which puts more stress on the plane. And with the wedge driven in so hard, it's harder to finesse the blade in place to take that paper thin shaving we all crave. No disrespect for Mr. Krenov. He brought back the craft from the dead (with a little help from others) and there were good reasons to design a plane that budding woodworkers could make with little skill and still get satisfactory results.
    • I've tried searching for advice on how to match veneer with solid wood (when finishing) and most of the time (maple, cherry, walnut, etc.) the veneer and the solid that they start with look almost identical.  In my case, the veneer and solid look nothing alike.  I ordered quarter sawn teak veneer online and when I received it, the color looks nothing like the beautiful, solid teak I had.  The image is after applying one coat of teak oil to each. As you can see, the solid is an orangey, golden brown, with a nice range of detail and color just like I have always seen teak.  The veneer is a strange tan looking color with little variation. I sat the veneer outside in the sun for a day and then compared it with a control piece.  Almost no change at all, maybe a shade darker.  I'm sure the veneer was cut from plantation teak, but I really didn't expect the stark difference.  Was hoping to do a wipe-on oil finish with no staining because I love the look of teak, but it seems I won't be able to get away with that. I was told that this was the best place to come for intelligent and experienced advice, I would very appreciate any ideas on how to proceed with trying to match these color-wise.  Thank you so much.
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