Thanks everyone for the really great advice. It's a good deal, but it's not an epic deal on the chisels. A lot of you are saying I don't necessarily need the number of chisels in this set right now and I agree with that. I'm going to purchase about four high quality chisels for now and use the rest of the money on some planes.
I know there are lots of threads on this already, and I will also search, but could someone chime in with a good high-end chisel manufacture I should look at purchasing?
Thanks everyone, especially for the warm welcome.
wtnhighlander is on to something. You had a preconceived idea of how the floor "should" look. It looks different. If you were walking through a model home and it had this floor would you stop in your tracks and say "dear god, what happened here!?!" or would it just be another flavor of flooring? Enough maple to make a floor is going to result in boards that look different from each other. Maple itself will look different throughout a board. I think you will be happier a year from now if you make lemonade out of this lemon by looking at it with fresh eyes versus the unexpected result of what you were after.
All the above is true. If you REALLY can't stand the appearance, a lot of sanding might get you back to square one. Which leaves you with a choice - leave the maple natural, or take another chance on coloring. Maybe the blotch control products help, maybe not. A possible alternative is chemical coloration, essentially speeding up the natural darkening process, without adding pigments that result in blotch. But that method has its downsides as well. Aside from the potentially toxic chemicals, the process depends on tannins that already exist in the wood, and which vary from tree to tree. Unless you somehow obtained flooring from a single tree, you are likely to still have drastic variations from board to board, even if the color of any given board is smooth and even.
My advise would be to stop now, and get on with the rest of your life.
I have had issues with the roller jamming on my Mk2 guide. I use it for oddball blades, but prefer my L-N side clamping guide for normal sharpening. It is faster and I haven't had any issues with it.
Like OakStBeachBum, i made a set of stops on my sharpening board to set the angle. Very fast and repeatable.
Everything seems to be healing just fine. I've been making limited appearances in the shop every day. I'm using this time to get a PM 100 up and running that I purchased last winter. It is in a whole lot better condition than I thought. I can't find anything wrong. I've just got to finish the electrical tomorrow and fire it up. Thanks to everybody for their thoughts and concerns. We all need to be reminded about safety. My boss to me that I need to be more careful. I told him that I'm always careful however what I forget is not to be stupid.