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    • OMG!! Is that what this little piece of plywood is for?!    The thing was just rattling around in the box my Jet came in.  There was nothing in the instructions other than now I see a vague mention of a "dust block".  No picture.  No description.  Nothing in the parts list.   I figured it was too odd not to be something, but I thought maybe for checking belt tension. Imagine how my dust collection will improve now with this installed, and if I remember to turn the DC on.
    • That allows the bottom wheel to be lower which means a longer blade. Longer blades run cooler. Here’s a pic with the lower door open so you can see why they do the dust collection  the way they do. The wooden shoe scrapes the excess off the blade at an angle so that gravity aids in the collection. 
    • It’s not much cooler here.
    • I think that covers everything I'll keep those notes as I move forward. I'm going to make this in parallel with other projects so it may go a bit slower than my typical pace. Megan really wants to start wrapping up rooms of the house and that means i have to finish the furniture for those rooms. The next BIG item on the list is dining room chairs, I admit I've been dragging my feet on them a bit as it's a daunting project.
    • Hey Drew, that's great. It's a fun project, and I'm pretty happy overall. There were a couple of minor things that I wish I'd known ahead of time. The biggest complaint I had was discovering that my back saws wouldn't fit in the height for the saw till. The Veritas tenon saw is over an inch too big, and another Disston saw was about the same. I also found the gallery was bigger than necessary, so I would have had the left side of the cabinet go down to the shelf above the drawers for the 6 inches or so of the till (dropping two cubbies). Actual hand saws require almost the full height of the cabinet, so I'm OK with putting the one I have in the door. The plane cubbies aren't very deep, so they end up being useless for anything bigger than a #4. As it is, I had to plan what was in the doors so it left a gap where the bottom of the plane castings are. If you wanted to make it more useful, adding 1/2" to 1" to the carcass depth would make a big difference. I'm limited on space since it's over my bench, so I'm happy as is. In the shorter plane till, if you follow the plans it's just barely big enough to squeeze in a #5, but I wanted to plan for possibly having a low angle Jack later. This was an easy fix, just requiring a wider piece of plywood and a shallower angle. I think I ended up at 14 degrees instead of 16. I didn't bother making it full width since I don't have that many planes, but I can later if necessary. Both plane tills hold the planes, but they're not in there all that firmly at that angle. I will be adding some magnets behind the plywood. I'd still build it the same next time. The piano hinges worked fine, but I bought the heaviest ones I could. I wouldn't want anything lighter duty on it. The butt hinges would have worked too, if I'd been willing to spend the extra on them. I ended up deciding the card scraper tray was way overkill for the 7 scrapers I have, which is why they went into a cubby. This depends on your tools. As I said, I'm replacing it with a drawer. With the carcass, I built the carcass, then built the doors. This wasn't a great idea, since I ended up having a discrepancy in size of between 1/32 and 1/16, which I then had to plane and sand away. Clamping the doors to the carcass worked to a point, although one door warped a bit after I put everything up. Hope this helps. Let me know if I can answer anything else.
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