One Time Tools

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  1. DelVe Square

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  2. Miter Master

    • 13 replies
    • 358 views
  3. MFT Shelf Support

    • 11 replies
    • 523 views
  4. Paolini Pocket Rules

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  5. Workholding Kit

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  6. Setup Blocks

    • 6 replies
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  7. Pocket T-Square

    • 5 replies
    • 269 views
  8. Variable Router Jig

    • 4 replies
    • 346 views
  9. Equal Space Divider

    • 4 replies
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    • Got a little more done. The first thing I did was glue the molding on the fronts.  It was a bit of a clamp fest to make sure things didn't move or shift. They came out pretty good I ended up with one tiny gap and I am contemplating how I will deal with that. In the mean time I milled up pieces for the base and then took them to the router to do the box joints. Couple of shots on the end pieces. And then the fronts and backs. I can't explain how it happened and obviously it was my fault, hard to blame anyone else when you are working alone, but three of the end pieces ended up thicker then all the other pieces, maybe a 1/64.  All three came from the same piece of stock.  So to fix it I ran everything through the drum sander for a couple of light passes until everything was the same.  The problem was I didn't want to sent the ends through because they were so small and would probably get flipped by the drum so I blue tape and super glued all of the small pieces to a piece of 1/8 ply and sent them through that way. Then I glued them up. And that is were we are at right now.
    • The best woods to use are the lightest you can get, but you are right in saying you can practically use any wood if you don't care about the weight.  The emerging wood used today is Paulownia. It's light but very strong for it's weight. It's decay resistant and doesn't absorb water, esp saltwater like Balsa. Balsa, along with it's tendency to absorb water, is not nearly as strong as Paulownia. Cedar, Redwood, and even Pine are okay choices for a board, but my research clearly shows Paulownia has the best strength to weight ratios and is the way to go.  I harvested my Paulownia from my property. The trees were planted by me in 2000, right after we finished the house and moved in. I planted 10" seedlings and it is one of the fastest growing hardwood. I never planned to use these trees for boards, but I had a softspot for this tree. My grandparents had this tree next to their farmhouse, and growing up I loved the smell of the flower this tree produces in the spring. My grandfather eventually had to take the tree down and it was then I got a chance to work a little with some of the wood. I never forgot that and had always planned to raise some of these trees on our 10 acre property, just turned out that they were the perfect tree for surfboards. For those intrigued by this wood and it's evolution into these specific uses, look at these links; https://www.tomwegenersurfboards.com/history/hollow-wood-surfboards https://flamasurf.com/content/8-paulownia-wood http://clearwoodpaddleboards.com/why-build-with-paulownia-wood/ https://diysurfboardkits.com.au/benefits-of-paulownia/
    • Just catching up on this. Beautiful work with some well chosen material. Great detail on the mating edges with mitered trim. Love the subtle recessed pull too.
    • A little late on this one. Looks like a fun project with plenty to learn from. As far as timber goes, you'd need lightweight timbers but does it matter what timber? Because it's all coated in fibreglass and resin, I'm guessing it should be waterproof and the durability of the timber wouldn't matter?
    • I don’t have an Incra so I’ll have to rig up something. Thinking about getting one of those digital protractors to set the miter gauge with. I really appreciate you taking the time out of you busy schedule to do this. Looks like everyone is enjoying as much as myself.
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