Layout and Measurement

Discuss Layout and Measurement tools (non-OTT) here.

15 topics in this forum

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  1. Woodworkers Edge Rule

    • 16 replies
  2. 6" Carpenters Square

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  3. Rule Stop 1 & 2

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  4. Story Stick Pro

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  5. Precision Triangles

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  6. T-Squares

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  7. Mini Square

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    • At this point I've got all the joints to the seat and arm sculpted. Still have refining and sanding, but I'm close in these areas. Rockers are glued up and transition blocks glued on. Waiting here to finish the headrest so I can balance the rockers and start to fit the legs to the rockers. So I'm left with the headrest and the spindles, started refining the spindles now and headrest is on deck. So to tackle the spindles, which have already been cut out to rough shape, I start by shaping the bottom half of the spindles. The front side of the spindles have a slight crown on the surface and the back of the spindles have a heavy round over. With the mid line marked and the line on the side of the spindle guide me for my first surface, the light crowning of the front side; I handle this just with cabinet rasps; The back side before starting heavy round over; Roughed out with the RAS; Both sides of center line roughed out with RAS; Then rasps to clean up and even out the round over; Next is the round tenon at the bottom of the spindle, need this to be 1/2"; A Veritas tenon cutter makes quick work of this; Now on to the the small sander with interface pad. Front of spindle presanding; The unevenness is quickly smoothed with 120 grit; Now the backside presanding; Again, sander with interface pad makes for a nice rounded surface; The spindles need to look uniform and the spindle shoulder height needs to be uniform. Here is a line using the two outside spindles and a mark up on the outer edge of each spindle from the seat at 3 1/4 "; I level the spindle shoulders to that line. This is all rasp work; I am only half way done with the spindles. Headrest is next before I can tackle the top half of the spindles. Oh this took awhile, 4 1/2 hrs to put my total time at 35 hrs. Thanks for looking.  
    • I"m tempted to buy this one, and I don't even need one.
    • Thanks!  It's my counter, so 70 degrees is the best I can do with heat (especially since we are experiencing the extreme cold now!)  I'm using #0000 steel wool every day to polish/remove the dull cured tung oil.  The weeping is slowing so I'm hoping this will end soon.  Unfortunately, I feel like the finish is blotchy now.  Once the weeping is completely finished how would you recommend dealing with the blotchiness?  A complete repolish with #0000?    
    • dszaius, and all others, What drill press do you like on a minimum basis. I am not looking for the best. For wood mostly. Something reliable. A good depth stop is important. 3/4 hp is minimum and I will not mind 1hp. 15" or larger. I would consider a beefed up bench model. Thanks
    • Pretty soon, there will be good sales on them.  I don't believe that which brand you choose makes a whole lot of difference.  My first cordless drill was a Makita, bought in 1983.  I'm still using that one, but it doesn't get used much-dedicated to only drilling out rivets on sailboats. My advice is to choose the brand that you like, and your local retailer seems to push over the other brands.  My Home Depot has a big Makita following, and it works out well for me, since often there are returned items that go cheap, in the Makita system.
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