I started this club because someone mentioned a thread about Aprons. I've got a couple but rarely ware them. Still think the subject bears discussion. I'm not sure how these clubs work exactly but anyone is free to start a topic here.
I didn’t take it that way, I just didn’t want it to end up going down that rabbit hole. I know some people have strong opinions about sharpening. My stating that was more to explain why I didn’t otherwise respond to your filing comments. And I specified quality grinder because the cheap ones are not worth their weight in dirt, IMO.
I have so many, in different sizes, that I can't remember where they all came from. From 27' long 4" ones, down to 1" strap flimsy ones. They all seem to work fine, except for the very small ones with solid color, very flexible straps. I know some of mine came from Tractor Supply, and some from the sale rack in Harbor Freight.
I'm always amazed at how many people can't seem to operate them. To loosen, hold the release trigger, and straighten the handle out. Once the handle is straightened out, pull the end of the strap until the strap is completely unwound, and the slot in the ratchet in line with the now straight out handle. I even had to show my Scientist friends how to release them. They used them for tying down equipment in a C141 with a hole in the side of the fuselage for a telescope to be able to see out. It was comical watching them try to release the straps.
The 27' ones are for tying down loads of hay, or straw.
Wasn't my intention apologies. I just meant that you will need to sharpen mid milling session so having files and possibly a guide system is a must imo. Unless you want to have multiple chains and swap out which would be time consuming. I think the grinder is with out a doubt better.
2x12 for reference on every cut, i secure it with 2_3/4" screws. I typically use 3 on the first cut to keep the board from being tippy on the log and then use 2 for the remaining cuts. You'll want some small wedges as well to prop under the board on the log and may need a screw to secure them as well. Think of it like shimming a door frame. The 2x12 will bow in the middle if it's only touching the log on each end. Or it'll bow in the middle if it's only touching the log in the middle.
The 2x12 isn't the best. It's great for strait trees but if the tree isn't remotely strait or there are protuberances this can cause issues. I have an idea to make the 2x12 better notably reinforcing each side with 1.5" angle iron to make the board more rigid and then use blocks at the start and stop. I just haven't gotten around to improving the system yet. If i figure out some neat tricks I'll share them.
I don’t want to get into the age-old debate of file vs grinder, but I’ve chosen to go with a quality grinder for my primary sharpening method.
I was at the stihl dealer today and almost walked out with a new saw.
So you had mentioned that you use your 2x10 (or 2x12?) reference on every cut. Do you secure it to the log on every cut or just on the first?