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  2. My first woodworking project. I've completed a large puzzle, dimensions ~ 62" x 42", and I'm interested in creating a "frameless" frame to mount it on the wall. The entire process can be seen here. The video uses pine DAR but I can't seem to find any locally. I've seen that furring strip is cheap and comes cut in dimensions I can easily work with. 1. Is furring strip "structurally" sturdy enough for me to use in this application? 2. Is there a specific name for the "x brace" pattern being used here?
  3. Today
  4. Pretty cool, almost looks like it would make a good wine rack.
  5. Isnt it the tannins that darken with age?
  6. So in my style search I stumbled upon Seth Rolland and was instantly drawn by some of the work that he created. I don't think I'm going to go quite as far as he did but something along these lines. I'm not even sure if the piece will fit but it's going to be the one oddball piece in the room so i figure why not try something new. If i don't like it i can always put it somewhere else or maybe try and sell it.
  7. High Performance is good. I've also had awesome luck with Varathane brand WB poly. Minwax WB polys I've had poorer results with. Dry time is a benefit i can have 3 light coats done in an hour. I sprayed 2 coats on some cornhole boards and was playing on them 45 min after i turned the sprayer on.... For stuff you want some slight warming effect Endurovar is by far the best but again it has a warming effect / leaves a yellow cast.
  8. I use General Finishes High Performance (satin) which is waterborne. I spray it with a 1.3 needle and cap. On a warm day with low humidity I can get at least two coats on, sometimes three.
  9. Well done Drew, you can’t go wrong with cherry and the ash top will look great on there, care to share what the odd one is going to be or are you going to make us wait, at the speed you make things it won’t be much of a wait
  10. I seem to recall that @phinds said he sands the end grain up to 600 grit to get those micro-photographs.
  11. I don't think that's quite right. Fuming darkens the tannin in the wood, it doesn't age it. That's a different process that involves exposure to light & oxygen. The surest way is to expose it to sunlight before finishing, I think.
  12. I have made 2 -1/4" ply x 2" x 8'for a story pole.. Bring them to the job. Spread them apart until both walls touch. put 3 clamps on in the middle. I can add all kinds of info to that piece.
  13. Any brand of poly you can recommend for spraying. Never sprayed poly, any pitfalls beside drying time? Thanks!
  14. Thanks for the feedback @JohnG.
  15. Chet

    Staining Cherry?

    This is the real thing you need to worry about. Any stain matching now will end up being darker down the road. You have no real idea what the original cherry lumber looked like in terms of light or dark lumber and was the original piece stained and with what? Your could end up really chasing you tail. I think you safest bet would be to put it in the sun for a couple of days, do a light sanding and then put you top coat on. Let nature do the rest.
  16. If you are spraying, any waterborne poly will help keep the white. So far the oak I've applied some WB poly over 6 years ago is still as white as the day i applied it. Well as white as it can be for a wood product.
  17. If it's naturally darkened I'd do some experiments to make sure that it can be close. I hate to say if but if it went naturally to a dark color why not just let the new project go naturally to the same point. Could accelerate it with some time in the sun outside prior to finishing. I'd be concerned with it looking similar now but 5 years later start going in a different direction. Or Baking soda. https://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/aging-wood-with-baking-soda/ Or Lye like @wtnhighlander has done.
  18. I have a few living room tables to make. Most of them are going to be my typical style that runs with the theme of the room but there is going to be one oddball that will be fun to make and i want to try something new. The first table on the list is the easiest. I just need to copy an end table i made a few years back. The main goal was to use up some reclaimed cherry from a bedroom door someone gave me. It was a solid cherry door that they cut some pieces off of so it was no longer usable as a door. Not bad for a reclamied wood project eh? First step was to make the MDF fence for my miter gauge that i've been meaning to make for a while now. After that was done it was as simple as cutting parts to get kinda close to the same size as the other table. I used the domino for the joinery. and also to attach the side slats on. It's the same techniquie I did for the last one. Used the drum sander to sand the slats to fit perfectly in a 6mm mortise. I used the table saw to establish the shoulder on 2 sides and cut the rest back until they fit. Next was to get everything finish prepped. #4 to the rescue! Marc mad a post on social media about rounding corners with a sander. I've never had that problem with a handplane and it's a ton faster to get perfect finish ready. I don't sand much any more after my smoother because it honestly makes the surface look worse. After finish prep it was a pretty painless assembly. Then it was on to making the top. The previous table has an ash top that came from scraps from a build i did a LONG time ago. Luckily i always planned on making 2 and kept the scraps. I ran it through the drum sander after it was glued up to even everything out. Because the grain is kinda crazy and i get a lot of tear out on this wood I took off the drum sander grit marks with a card scraper. Took me maybe 10 min to go from 80 grit to finish ready. Total time was about 10 hours. Just need to apply finish.
  19. It’s a scam with many low quality, incomplete, and/or stolen plans.
  20. I’ve used Watco cherry on cherry wood to darken it to match a piece for a client, wait till it’s cured to dry before any top coat
  21. You could possibly darken the cherry before finishing by fuming it with ammonia. This artificially ages the wood so if you get a color match with the older wood it should stay fairly close as it ages.
  22. I often use both on pieces I may only make one of. Templates and piece-specific "setup" boards or sticks assure accuracy. As Chestnut says, for ganged parts or mating joinery you can mark directly on the pieces. Where to mark in the first place is where the value of the templates come in.
  23. I have been spraying Lenmar precatalyzed lacquer and been very happy with the results, until I have used it on an Italian White Rift Oak veneer, where it is really adding quite a yellow tint to the finish (see picture of raw versus sprayed veneer). Can someone recommend what I could add or switch to another product to eliminate the yellowish tint? Thanks for the help! Steve
  24. This piece looks amazing! Truly a show room look. Kudos to the maker!
  25. I hate to think of it and hate to ask. But I've been asked to build a piece to match an existing piece. The older piece naturally has darkened. I'm thinking the stained piece eventually be darker than the older piece. Anybody with experience with this kind of challenge? What stain did you use? Thanks
  26. Tried it didn't see the point..... putting marks on project parts and setting them together ensures there are no mistakes. I also use stop blocks and plan my cuts out.
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