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  2. That board doesn't look like oak to me but it's hard to tell. The fastest method is smell. When cutting the wood there is a very obvious difference between them. Good clean end grain pictures are the most accurate. As far as value it all depends on if you can find the right buyer. Also how clean you can get the boards would be a big factor as well. If they are caked in dirt and full of nails not many people will want to buy.
  3. Yea, you want to sand the end grain to at least 150 grit maybe 180 then take as cost as you can picture but still have it in good clear focus.
  4. Today
  5. Thank you both - I'll try to get some better pics. I know it's not pine...and it's fairly heavy and very dense. I took down another piece, from the actually flooring in the 2nd floor of the barn - 17' long, that was fun! lol - and I'm going to clean it up a bit and see if I can get some pics of that too. So - I should take that piece I have and sand the end down? That won't make it harder to identify? Like I said, I have tons of the stuff so I'm game - just want to make sure I'm doing it right!
  6. i will be laminating the ply wood or 1x4 together to make a poor man's bridle joint
  7. That looks like it came from the same assembly line as my Rigid 24241 saw. Very nice machine for the price, even without your upgrades.
  8. Polyurathane construction adhesive (not the foaming stuff) sticks to finished wood quite well, and bonds dissimilar materials, in my experience.
  9. I hope you get it finished and I hope and pray that your recovery continues in a positive direction.
  10. I'm no expert at identifying species from samples like that, but it looks waaaaay different from any oak I've seen. If you can take a close-up shot of finely sanded end grain, @phinds or one of the others might give you a positive ID.
  11. Let's raise a flag for @Mick S, he's posted more mesquite projects than anyone else here, I think.
  12. I have some bottles of"stick fast" and "kwik bond" ca glue that i purchased from a hobby store over 5 years ago. I keep them in the fridge and they are both going strong. One is a medium and the other is a thin.
  13. Last week I got to fulfill something on my bucket list. I was able to spend a week taking a class with Chuck Bender working on a Massachusetts serpentine chest. Last August I was diagnosed with prostate cancer, and when the shock wore off, the only thing that I could think that I would like to do would be to take a woodworking class with a professional. Thankfully surgery went well, and after 2 check ups since, no more cancer. While I was home recuperating I stumbled upon Chucks blog and saw that he had moved back to Jim Thorpe Pa. and was offering classes. The minute I saw the picture of the chest I knew I wanted to take the class. Had to borrow from my 401k to swing it but having just hearing a doctor tell me I had cancer I figured I can't take it with me. Chuck is one of the nicest people I have met. Very patient teacher, great sense of humor. And oh, an amazingly talented woodworker. We weren't able to finish the chest in the 5 days and Chuck graciously offer for us to come back on a weekend in November so that he could help us finish. Thank goodness because I definitely don't have the skills yet to finish the chest on my own. Just kinda wanted to share as I felt like this was a big step forward in woodworking for me and this was the first forum. I ever participated in.
  14. Mike71

    Texas mesquite

    Hi higtron. Thanks for your time. I was born in Everett. And yes, the really old trees have beautiful patterning. Thanks again and look forward to posting in future.
  15. I would check with local hardwood dealers in your area, see if they sell the stuff, if so maybe they would buy it off you. If they don't sell it, they might be able to give you some insight to its worth. something like this is going to have real variences in price based on what part of the country you live in. If you end up selling it yourself, you'll probably looking at craigslist to do so.
  16. You’re’s 3.25 hp. Hope I saved the receipt..!!
  17. I don’t see a 3.5hp router on their website but the 3.25hp router motor has a 1 year warranty. I’d contact Bora.
  18. If you can lay it flat I would use a veneer saw - less chance of splitting the veneer. Then sandpaper on a hard, straight sanding block
  19. I’m checking on that now.....I figure that I won’t be that lucky
  20. Does it have any kind of manufacturer warrenty? 6 months is a bit short useage especially for that much horsepower (unless the rating is all hype).
  21. About 6 months ago I purchased a 3.5 hp PortAmate router motor for my router table. It has the gradual start function and also shuts down if I get too aggressive when hogging out material. Last week I was cutting a 1/2” groove in a piece of oak and after shutting down momentarily 2 or 3 times it quit and won’t run anymore (no reset button to be found). It gave off an odor so I’m confident that I cooked it. Does anyone know if it’s worth getting it repaired...?
  22. Hey Everyone! A couple of years ago I bought a small farmhouse - circa 1840 - in Maine. A buddy came up and while he was exploring the barn he said there could be serious money in them there boards! I know there's a lot of reclaimed wood for sale and the prices are all over the place (most selling unfinished/raw word for about $7-8 bd ft. - but most of that that I've seen is only 4-8" wide) pretty sure this is oak - not sure what subspecies it is. The upper floor of the barn had two layers - many are around 12" wide, 1" thick and various lengths but almost all 8'+ with quite a few in the 16' range. The top of the top layer of wood is caked in about 100 years of dust and crud. There's a lot of wood up there! Just wondering what you wood folks think of it - is it worth selling and just replacing the floors, that haven't been used in 140 years, with some sheets of plywood? Is it best to rip it all out and try to sell it in one shot? I'm just not sure how to proceed - or the best way to proceed - and hoping you'all might have some solid suggestions?! Below is a picture of an 8" piece I cut from a loose piece that was in the rafters. I cleaned it up a bit and sanded a small section. Thanks for any help! Rob
  23. higtron

    Texas mesquite

    I'm not familiar with Mesquite I live in Washington State, I would just try it if it works great if it doesn't now you know. In Washington suckers happen a lot in Broad Leaf Maple trees I've never tried to do anything with them. I wish I had some Mesquite around here it looks like very beautiful wood.
  24. I don't know if you can get a clamp on this or not, but consider DAP Rapid Fuse. My guess is that it will adhere to the polyurethane film, but a call to DAP should confirm. Once applied you will have to hold the stop in place for 30 sec. After that you can still break the bond for a couple of minutes if you need to reposition. If you are going with Titebond consider II and Quick & Thick, they both set up faster. Q&T dries clear, II dries orange.
  25. You just need to scrape back to bare wood no finish for Tite Bond, the dowel trick might work but, I would think with as small of a block and a magnet embedded in it, it would leave very little room for dowels. I would use TB original or TB 2, TB 3 has more open time so not as good for a rub joint you need it to grab fairly quickly practice on some scrap it's great technique for small pieces in tight places where clamping is difficult I wouldn't use it on a large glue up.
  26. Thanks all, I forgot to mention that there is a coat of shellac under the poly - does that change things? and , Would Epoxy glue give me some added piece of mind that it will hold?
  27. @joe mendel Hi Joe, thank you for sharing this spectacular work. I do have one question for you sir, You mention using about 15 coats of shellac. How did you arrive at that number? Was there a characteristic you were looking for and it took that many coats to get there? Thanks
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