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  1. Today
  2. I've had the HF dust collector for many years and finally got tired of seeing fine dust on everything in the shop. I bought a cartridge filter from Wynn (Wynn filters for HF). They make several that are sized specifically for the unit. The one that I got is a MERV 15 and was about $200. I also added an Oneida Super Dust Deputy and between the two of them, it makes a world of difference.
  3. Has anyone upgraded the harbor freight 2hp dust collector with a canister filter? What brand did you use and do you recommend it?
  4. I have a neighbor, bless his heart, a retired single 60 something guy that has way too much time on his hands. A 3 yo $30k bay boat with less than 40 hours, a fortune in black powder guns, the elite in golf clubs and hours and hours of study on all of the above. Unfortunately the guy couldn’t catch the first fish, hit a target at 50 yards or break 100 if his life depended on it. Point is, regardless of you library, if not applied, it does you no good.
  5. The handle drops to about 45 degrees pointing to the floor and can not go any further due to bottoming out in the frame. And i have adjusted the screws it all the way as well. I think a return to lowes is in my future.
  6. I’m amazed at times how a joint is just baby butt smooth prior to adding a finish, then later feeling just the slightest unevenness.
  7. You mentioned in another thread that you’re not good at journals. I think you’re doing a jam up job on both the project and the process description!
  8. Fortunately, OSHA is suspended in MY shop.
  9. Heavy camber is typically reserved for "scrub" planes. These are made for the intial coarse flatenning of rough lumber. IMO, most other planes should have a straight edge, with only the corners eased to reduce tracks. Some like a bit of camber on their smoothing plane, to make the surface look more 'hand planed'. I just think it looks unfinished. But, to each his own.
  10. That kind of drought is rare for us, too. But several years ago, we had a summer with zero rainfall for more than 90 days. The ground dried and cracked so bad it left huge gaps all through the asphault of my driveway.
  11. Oh man - books! I’ll have to write down my list of favorites and post here Chestnut, thanks for the topic I have a small library but the only one I can think of the name of off the top of my head is Pevovich’s and that’s already been listed. Pearl and Lang for G&G stuff, but I also have Encyclopedia of Furniture (kind of boring but interesting at the same time) and a bunch of others. Stand by while I process.... (could be a. While, I’m slow)
  12. Nice design feature, venting the top that way!
  13. I'm 76 years old, and I always pulled a RAS, I never had a problem, Pushing seems like a mistake.
  14. When my Bessy fence is locked, the locking handle is down below horizontal. I assume yours should be the same way. If not, I wonder if your adjusting screws are way too tight not allowing the cam to rotate all the way to locking position. Also, mine has a "finger" that drops down between the rail and the cam. If yours has the same, maybe there are some issues with that.
  15. Yesterday
  16. Thanks Mick, lots of set up and too much thinking for my weak mind, the nice part is I’ll be able to have a nice fire with the test pieces to cook some brats and dogs!
  17. Really liking this build, Dave!
  18. Somewhere in this thread I remember someone saying that no one would climb cut with a circular saw. I remembered a set of housed stringers I made sometime in the 1970's, and that I had some pictures in a stack of 35mm pictures. Here is a picture of one of the stringers. Both stringers, and two beams were saw out of a 12 x 12 Heart Pine beam with a 16-5/16" Makita circular saw. The stringers were planed in a 16" green with white racing stripes Powermatic planer. This picture shows how I had to space the housings so a bad place in the beam would be hidden. I don't have any other pictures of these stringers, or stairs. The ledger is to hold the treads, which were hinged to offer extra storage (reason the treads weren't housed). The treads seen in the picture were just temporary. The bottom of that staircase was closed in with tongue and groove Pine boards. It was in a house I built, and sold sometime back then. The house was a really nice little house, sitting on a really nice lake lot. Sometime in the early 2000's, the third or fourth owner burned it down to build a giant McMansion on the nice lot. I used a Rockwell 8-1/4" Speedmatic circular saw. That particular saw didn't have any shoe on the right side of the blade, so there was a clear view of that whole side of the blade. That was during the time when Rockwell had bought out Porter Cable, and what would be a Porter Cable saw had the Rockwell name on them. I wanted to get those stringers up that day, didn't have a shop then, and the only blade I had for that saw did not leave a clean cut edge with a push cut. Long story short, every edge of every riser housing was cut by climb cutting with that saw. The housings needed to stop barely short of coming out the top of the stringer, because those surfaces would show. Anyone who says that pull cutting is uncontrollable, and leaves a rough cut because of it, doesn't know what the hell they're talking about. I'm not saying that it doesn't require skill, but it's not an absolute statement.
  19. Been down that road a time or twelve. Some times I need a lumber yard thats open 24 hours a day.
  20. Hello. I just upgraded the fence on my Craftsman 113 table saw to the Delta T3. I managed to get it installed and aligned properly however I am having an issue with the fence itself not staying clamped. I have tried it with the adjusting screws loosened and tightened. It almost seems like the handle is not allowing the cam to swing down far enough. When I try to clamp the fence in place it holds for a couple seconds and then the handles slowly starts release until pops up. Anyone familiar with this issue?
  21. Drought (rare) kills roads here. Many of our local soil types require some moisture for cohesion and stability. Too dry and the roads settle through the substrate.
  22. I did/have messed up, I’m just not telling anybody
  23. Thank you for the explanation. I was just trying to figure out why you would use the table saw over the router bit. I understand not wanting to buy more tools for something you'll rarely use. At least with the Incra miter gauge it's easy to accurately adjust. This build is really crazy. With all the angles I'm pretty sure I'd mess something up!
  24. next was over to the mortise machine to put in 2 1/4 X 1/4 by 5/8” deep mortise and one in the center 1/4” by 1/2” long in the center, over to the router to remove the material in the center (underneath) at 1/2” depth, several passes and depth adjustments got this done, this will allow light to shine thru and also serve as a vent for the heat
  25. I started with a 4” square piece 3/4 thick, used the dado to put a 1/4” by 5/8” deep groove a 1/4” down from the top then over to the TS and put a 30 degree bevel on the bottom. I started a little big and snuck up on it to get a good fit, works well because I was not taking off any material from the very top and could reference it against the fence
  26. got back in the lamps today after a weekend of working on other woodworking projects. I removed the clamps on the shades and put a rabbit on the inside for the glass and glued the 4 sides together, next was dealing with the top in the center top of the shade, you can see they are at a 30 degree angle
  27. You read my mind, they do make a 22 1/2 degree but that I think would work I just haven’t gotten around to buying one yet, great idea
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