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  2. Coop what’s the word on the Martin Bird House’s? Did you build them a big motel or a tiny house?
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  4. The zero on the vernier scale should line up exactly with the zero on the miter scale. I agree aligning to the miter slot is better than to the blade, but squaring to the blade is just easier to do and if the blade has been made parallel to the miter slot than it doesn't matter. I recently spent a day tuning up this saw, so I think I'm good. Ultimately when I get everything set I'll probably do a "five cut" test.
  5. Yep haven’t used it yet but I have one. And now I doubt I will because I will just add it to the table saw. I think I will do the right side as well that way IF I ever decided I wanted to add the cross cut feature i could do so without having a router there.
  6. Which one are you saying is off the 0? I just want to say I did mine this way but I also noticed when doing this you have to be careful not to get the square on the carbide tip of blade on the front or back side and then off on the other because you won’t be square. Not sure what anyone else thinks but it seems more logical to me to use the miter slot in the table. There is a video explaining all this on you tube which is how I came across this.
  7. I believe that scale is adjustable. I swear I had to adjust mine. Make sure you calibrate the squareness to your table saw blade. Mine was way out there.
  8. For a router table, I suggest the Milwaukee 5625-20 3 1/4 HP router. I have had the Porter Cable and like the Milwaukee better. To start with, it you don't want to by a router lift, you can remove the baseplate and mount it to the router table. You can adjust the 4625-20 from above the table with a supplied wrench, or you can remove it from the base and out it in a lift. I like the speed control better, (it is continuous, not stepped), and Milwaukee reliability is legendary. If I could afford it, I would get a cast iron router table top and out it on my own base. My router table is the left extension table on my tablesaw and the extra space is nice for both uses.
  9. I actually went back in your other thread to see if there was a router table in the background, with the idea of making that exact suggestion. It's a real space saver for me. I prefer having on the right end because I rarely have work wide enough to necessitate moving the fence all the way out there. On the left, it pretty much requires taking the fence off and lowering the cutter to use the saw. Yes, I leave the miter gauge on the left. If I'm cutting miters for boxes I use a sled on the right side.
  10. @MJC, I've set up the miter guage, now. I still have to tackle the Miter Express, but that will be another day. To answer your question, the fence seems fine. It extends and retracts its full length. The junction where the extension fence meets the primary isn't NASA flush, but certainly good for this application. The shop stop can be readily moved from side to side, but I find it's best for the set screws to be extra loose before repositioning. What I have noticed is that the anodized finish seems poor. It looks like the aluminum surface has tiny pits. Dissapointing, but cosmetic. One of the 4 screws fastening the fence mount to the miter guage was rattling around in the box. You have to loosen those four screws anyway, so not a big deal, just odd. A little more concerning to me, the vernier scale does not line up. That is set at zero, but reads 1/10 th to the right. I can't say as I will ever need this level of accuracy, but it was the reason to go with the HD over the SE model.
  11. I wish I would have found this website before I bought all the stuff I had in the last 2 months. I haven’t even used the Kreg precision router stand/table yet and now that I have the sawstop table saw I was to add this to it. I guess I could use the lift and the porter cable router and just drop them right in. I wonder what the advantages are to having it to the right end of the table vs the left? i notice your miter gauge is setup to the left of your blade. Do you always run it like that?
  12. Photo paper, off my printer. Figure shellac dries fast. Did a test run, no ink running
  13. Well I haven’t used it yet still waiting on my electrician who is usually Johnny on the spot. I guess I will have to decide when disable the safety features of the saw. Kind of seems silly to even think you would have to do that.
  14. Two thoughts... 1) you still aren’t sharp enough, or 2) there is short grain in that end grain, and the uplift of the lower cutting angle is pulling that grain out. Solutions? More sharp, or introduce a high angle secondary face on that low angle blade. Also, you might try a lighter cut. Too aggressive a set can create a lot of uplift.
  15. I just went on a sharpening binge for all my hand planes. Flattened the backs with diamond stones, moved to waterstones and then moved to the Tormek to set the bevel at ~25-27 degrees and got to a mirror finish with the leather strop on both sides of the edge. The results make me silly happy, I'm able to slice through paper with just the weight of the blade. Just for kicks, I pushed one of the blades directly through some end grain and got a waxy smooth finish, something I've never seen before! I was amazed until I popped it in the low angle plane and -- with the same blade -- got a rough finish - it felt like 400 grit sandpaper. I tried this with 3 different low angle planes - Stanley 9 1/2, Stanley low angle jack plane and the Veritas DX60 and got pretty much the same results across the board. So I'm wondering: - Is there a way to get that same waxy finish with a low-angle plane that's cutting at a higher angle (~38 degrees vs. 27 degrees)? Do I need to cut my bevels down to 23 degrees? - If that's not realistic, has anyone tried burnishing end grain to get it to a waxy finish? I'm planning to build walnut shelves soon with visible end grain and I'd love to have it be a hand finished / non-sandpapered waxy finish.
  16. Well I haven’t used it yet still waiting on my electrician who is usually Johnny on the spot. I guess I will have to decide when disable the safety features of the saw. Kind of seems silly to even think you would have to do that.
  17. I don't know that it's that terrible, just make sure you are limiting your exposure to the dust or wearing a dust mask / respirator. Guys work with the stuff on construction sites all day long after all so I doubt it's goign to make you drop dead tomorrow. Also keep in mind with the saw stop the moisture in treated wood may trip the brake. Make sure that you account for that etc.
  18. I emailed Incra once and the VP of sales responded well outside of working hours. I think they’ll stand behind it.
  19. Mark, just curious but can you look at the extension piece on the fence and see what yours looks like. Mine is not even the same color and not even close to matching up. It’s even hard to slide the shop stop piece over it due to the ridge that is there.
  20. Yes sir I am putting a small plastic pal inside and will use a liner. Then will toss in the little baggies we use to pick up her “stuff”. Trash day you take out the liner like you would your kitchen trash.
  21. Ok is that because of the chemicals used to treat the wood? I never gave this any thought but makes sense. I guess that’s the end of the deck board
  22. I think you found a great solution to your lid fitment issue. Would you put a bag inside so you don't have to dig the stinky packages out of the bottom of it?
  23. I moved this topic to the Hand Tool forum.
  24. Your builds are giving me some great ideas. I'm going to be starting on some modernish style furniture in the near future and will be reference your build frequently. I Just want to say thanks ahead of time.
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