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  1. 18 points
    This was a fun build, and it really shows off Rickey's (aka Spanky) curly ambrosia maple. I was inspired to do this piece after seeing some nice buffet designs and builds on this site. Why would a buffet design inspire this piece, well this piece will match my future buffet table/cabinet! I also plan to build a matching liquor cabinet to match this piece. That liquor cabinet is just getting started and if I can get my act together I wanted to post a journal with that. Now for those that have seen some of my work, you know I lean more toward a Maloof/sculptured design. I had to incorporate some flowing lines in this piece but it's a lot more traditional than Maloof stuff. I still find this look appealing. Spanky's curly ambrosia really looks great with the walnut, and my liquor cabinet will incorporate these two woods also. Fully stocked in this photo; Drawer dovetail were handcut and run on a center guide. Really like the way these woods work together; From the side view you can really appreciate the curves in this piece; Thanks for looking.
  2. 11 points
    Hey everyone! I know I don't post too often, but I figured I'm about halfway through this build and I wanted to share progress and maybe keep myself accountable to finish the darn thing. So a few years ago, when my son was first born, I made a midcentury modern side table. It's shown here: This image has been reduced by 44%. Click to view full size. I am proud of that piece. It was the first time I ever tried to do nothing but best practices in my woodwork. Lots of hand-tooling, lots of hidden and half-blind dovetails, lots of creative crazy joinery. It's holding up quite well, too, and I liked it so much that I decided it needed a friend. Two projects ago, a client wanted a cherry TV stand, so I over-ordered cherry and kept enough back to make myself something. For my next few projects, I want to keep building in this style and filling out my living room. My goal is this: This image has been reduced by 25.3%. Click to view full size. The TV stand, bookshelf, and coffee table are all new, while the other stuff is existing. I know a mission-style white oak Morris chair doesn't exactly go with a bunch of cherry midmod stuff, but I'm keeping it for sentimental reasons. Here's the TV stand that's in progress: This image has been reduced by 25.3%. Click to view full size. This image has been reduced by 31.6%. Click to view full size. On the original side table, I was trying best practices with no regard to how long it took, and that tiny table took about two months as a result. It turned out GREAT, but that's a long time, and I've got commissions to build after this. Gotta make money somehow. So the way I'm looking at this project is that I'm trying to see how quickly and efficiently I can make a piece that I'm proud of without sacrificing too much quality. The project is an exercise in "compromising without compromising," so to speak.Compromises:1. No buying new material. So far so good on this one, I had just the right amount in the shop for the case, doors, and drawer fronts. I did have to use sapwood-heavy boards on the interior, but nobody will ever see that in daily use. I also had to use a board that had a half-inch bug hole through it. It's also on the inside - it'll be the surface that the top drawer rides on top of. I filled the bug damage with epoxy, and nobody will ever be the wiser. Everything on the outside is looking good. I did have to do a few panels with three boards when two wider ones would have been preferable, but I'm working with limited stock here, and I'm keeping it pretty symmetrical, so it's not a major loss. One compromise that I'm somewhat okay with is that the back panel is actually ¼" cherry-veneered MDF panel.2. No overly complicated joinery. On the original side table, the miter joints featured blind mitered dovetails. Those took FOR. EVER. And they look great and were a dream to glue up, because everything came together perfectly, but I'm not sure how much of a payoff there will really be. For this one, I just cut the miters on the table saw with a sled and used biscuits for alignment. On the original, the vertical components were held in place by sliding dovetails in the top and bottom of the case. In the TV stand, they are just held in by a simple tenon in a groove. Simplified joinery, but not to the point it will be weaker.3. Fastening hardware is okay. I'm attaching the base to the top with screws up through the base into the bottom of the cabinet. On the side table I did a crazy sliding dovetail thing - a very cool magic trick for woodworkers to ooh and ahh over, but it actually doesn't really help the piece in use, and it took forever. Screws where they will work better faster and never be seen? I'm in.Non-Compromises:1. The joinery will still be solid. It'll hold up to everyday use. And it will look good doing it.2. The wood will still be as-well-selected as possible in spite of trying to avoid buying new material for this project. It's all pretty decent cherry aside from the defects deep inside the case, which will be invisible during ordinary use.3. The hardware is going to be niiiiice. I bought the stainless steel knife hinges from Lee Valley and installed them in the case prior to glue-up. I just ordered ball catches from Brusso (via Amazon) and will use those to lock the doors shut. I've already got my handle hardware - it's as close as I could find to the hardware from the original side table, and I think it'll look great.So here's my progress so far: This image has been reduced by 44%. Click to view full size. The legs and stretchers went together without a hitch. Simple enough, just vertically-oriented sliding dovetails into the tops of the legs. This is the fourth or fifth time I've used this technique for attaching legs, and it's become one of my favorite techniques. It's just so solid. This photo was prior to final glue-up, but it looks essentially identical right now. This image has been reduced by 44%. Click to view full size. Testing the miters with the biscuits. It went pretty well for the most part. There was a little trouble during the glue-up, but that may be a different post. Definitely easier overall than the blind mitered dovetails, but the glue-up sucked a lot more, haha. This image has been reduced by 44%. Click to view full size. And here's the case put together! This was another pre-glue photo, so what you can't see here (and I'll have to get a picture of later) is the slight bevel on the outer edges of the case. Here's a close-up of it in my sketch up model:That little bit of detailing is really making this piece feel pretty great.So yeah, that's about where it's at at the moment. This image has been reduced by 44%. Click to view full size. (pre-glue, those gaps are all gone now)So, here's where I'm at from here. I've got the door panels glued up and I've got the drawer-fronts selected and rough-cut to size. I am going to take a walk in the danger zone and make my doors be solid wood panels. I figure that the worst that could happen is they get stuck, and I have to trim them - or they warp into potato chips and I have to scrap them and make new doors. Honestly, that wouldn't be so bad. I mean, I'm a woodworker. I've never done solid-wood doors, and this cherry seems quite stable, so I'm giving it a go. I think it'll look good with the modern style. For the interior of the drawers, I'm waffling back and fort between ash and maple - mostly because I have a bit of ash on hand already, but I'm not sure if it will be enough to make what I need, so it may just come down to whether I have enough ash on hand. If I don't, I'll probably buy maple just because it would look better with the cherry.More updates will follow.Keep getting splinters, fellow termites.
  3. 9 points
    So today i made a big push on getting the backrest designed and finished. I had no idea what i was going to do with this when i woke up. I nailed down the design and plunged a lot of mortises for dominoes and got everything together for both back rests. It's starting to look like a chair. I need to get some shorter SS screws to attach the back rest to the chair. To tie the seat in I'll be plugging the screw holes with Ipe. I like how the back of the back rest turned out. Everything steps in. The one down side is the back rest is heavy so the chair sits at a fair natural tilt. In the pictures i used a block as a kickstand. The good part about the extra weight is that when sitting in the chair it sits better in the reclined position. I need to route a more comfortable chamfer or something for where your head touches the headrest and then finish sand everything. So it's close to being done. It might i still have quite a few to make so I'll give it a shot. I've been working on the back rest today cause i wanted to see how everything was going to turn out.
  4. 9 points
    Things went excellent. Came out dead flat and sanded up nicely. Removing the veneer tape was fun but also nerve racking i didn't want to sand through the veneer. I don't know what this link will do but the origional image is 10 meg and has a bit more resoulition. If you go to the full size version you can maybe see some of the gaps but i'm really happy with how hard they are to find. Thank you @Ronn W i hope i did well. Now to glue the other one down and then make the box to go around all of this.
  5. 7 points
    So I've been searching for some decent squares that don't break the bank but are also a bit nicer than your average machinist square. I ended up finding a brand Kinex on amazon that looked interesting. The biggest complaint i have for machinist squares is the blade is so thin that sometimes reference things with rounded edges doesn't work like your track saw track. I found 2 in a larger size that would fit the bill. I wanted something stainless steel so i wouldn't have to worry about it rusting with the rust throwing off the accuracy. I couldn't find them so i figured I'd just wax them up good and keep them on the schedule with all my other rusting tools. Points to anyone that gets the Brandon Sanderson reference. The one on the top is a similar design to the woodpeckers square that they love to charge way to much for IMO. It's slightly smaller than is available from wood peckers so they still have a leg up there but I'm always told it's not the size of the tool but how you use it.... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079R8BVYW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The bottom one is more of a regular machinist square except the blade is much thicker. The image below shows the difference the blade is 3mm or a hair over 1/8" compared to the 1/16" that my other square are. This is helpful when i need to reference the square with material that has a corner knoced off or with the track saw track. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073YMTLCN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I'm just throwing this up for any one that is unhappy with Woodpeckers prices and wants a good square for a fair price. If you disagree with me and thing that WP is worth it i won't argue i think they do make an awesome product but i drop things and one knock of aluminum against concrete in the wrong spot is an expensive mistake. I am in no way affiliated with amazon or Kinex in any way shape or form. I don't get any money if you click on those links and it's probably best for your wallet if you don't If you zoomed into read this small text I'm sorry there is nothing of value down here i just wanted to troll. Any and all claims that I'm lying will be met with a stern look of disapproval. I'm not even sure if that is the proper spelling for lying, I'm talking about the word that is defined as speaking an untruth despite knowing better. Not lying as in Hey what's that Lying over there. That's not a Lion that's a giraffe.
  6. 7 points
    I just finish putting a new floor surface down in my shop. Its still early, just a couple of days, but so far I am truly impressed. I purchased this from https://www.rubberflooringinc.com I got the 8mm thick strong rubber tiles, Black with gray flecks. The tiles are 23 inches square and interlock. They come in corner pieces, edge pieces and center pieces. The pattern for my shop took 36 tiles, 9 corners, 4 centers and 23 edge. The interlock edges are cut so well that when you get them together it is near impossible to see unless you are standing and looking directly down on them. I had been looking at this flooring system off and on for 18 months but just never made the final decision. Then I had this broken ankle thing and I needed to do some physical therapy after it healed. The facility that I was going to, in the area were they had all there exercise equipment they had this really nice rubber floor that had this supportive and comfortable feel under my feet, it wasn't soft but you could feel some give to it. I asked my therapist, also the owner, were he bought it and turns out it was from the same place I had been looking. Well that kind of sealed the deal for me, to get to walk on it before I purchased made the decision easy. It took me about 3 hours to put the floor down, this included making some cuts on some pieces to go around equipment. It cuts fairly easily with a sharp utility knife and straight edge. The first few tiles I was pressing the interlocks together with my fingers but switched to using my dead blow mallet and that worked a lot better. I think if I had stuck with my original method my hands would have been pretty sore the next day. The tiles weigh 6.7 pounds each and were delivered in 4 boxes. The price including delivery worked out to $3.27 per square foot, and guild members get a discount. First impressing are great, I like walking on it and I threw some sawdust down to see how it swept up and there was no problems there, but this may be different if its dust on the floor and you walk over it during the day and then you sweep it up. I will let you know how this goes. As far as rolling equipment around on the flooring, the only experience I have at this point is that I had to roll my band saw out of the way to ge that section down and then roll it back in place. Coming up over the edge of the tile took a little extra pull but once it was moving it went well and roll fairly easily in the rubber floor itself. I also had to move my jointer out of the way and then move it back and in this case half the wheels were on eh rubber tiles and half off and this was still easy to manipulate. Boxes the tiles came in. Two stacks of edge pieces, one of the corners and the centers are to the right mostly out of the picture. There is a right side up to the tiles and they make this easy on you by having some white numbers and notations on the bottom. The section between my drum sander and miter station on the right and planer and outfeed/assembly table on the left and looking toward the bandsaw. Around the bandsaw. Between the jointer and table saw, ending at the router table. I still need t take a minute and get the jointer moved closer to the edge of the floor. I had a couple of happy accidents, one the bottom drawer in this picture, I ended up with a little under 3/32 inch of clearance over the floor and the chop on the leg vice in the next picture had about an 1/8 inch. Between the router table and work bench. This is the type of shop stool I have and there is no problem with the way this rolls on the floor while sitting on it.
  7. 7 points
    I've cleaned up this thread. We have a "no jerk" policy here and it's there for a reason. I'll unlock this thread but, expect it to stay in the spirit that these forums are known for.
  8. 6 points
    So now that I've finished my bench, I'm getting to a project I've wanted/needed for a couple of years - a wall hanging tool cabinet. As with SawDustB I also considered the one from FWW, and even bought a set of plans from Lee Valley, but finally decided to get the Guild project. Having watched the all the videos so far has been instructive, but I will be deviating from Matt's plan a fair bit, which I think is expected with this type of project. The dimensions will be different to fit my space, and the internal storage areas of the main cabinet will be quite different. I don't have a huge plane collection (yet...), and I wanted some room for some books, so although the idea is similar, the final product should be quite different. I don't think I will be doing the mitered through dovetails. It will be just plain old dovetails all around. As well, at this point I don't think I'll be making the outer doors, mainly because I really don't have that many tools, and I figure that it will be open most of the time, so outer doors don't seem critical to me. In the future it will be easy enough to add outer doors for when I really need them. The main wood will be cherry. I've had a bunch of really crappy cherry hanging around for a while that I'm hoping to use up, but when I started measuring, I realized I could really only get the doors done. These particular boards had a lot of knots, sapwood, etc that precluded long clean stretches. The scraps from these pieces should be useable for the internal stuff. I ended up getting a pretty good deal on some really nice 5/4 cherry, 10' long, 11' wide and very clean. This will be used for the main cabinet. I didn't even really attempt to grain match as all of these boards are likely from different trees... All I've done so far is rough cut to length, with the help of my able assistant:
  9. 6 points
    This is the stump/burl from a walnut I dropped a few years ago.3 main trees came from it. Finally got the machines in to help get it out. Took a lot of work to get it here, and will be a lot more work to process now. The very center was a bit rotted out so we are chain saw chunking as many big blocks as we can, specifically trying to incorporate what will be the best grain.
  10. 6 points
    The Ipe top plug is only a bit darker. This picture makes it look a bit more than it really is. I like it because instead of trying to hid the plug it calls it out but not in a hugely contrasted way.
  11. 6 points
    Check out the color on this black walnut.
  12. 6 points
    Check out this bowl Gary turned for me.
  13. 6 points
    Well I made a big step today. I got the 2 board pieces finished and have them all veneer tapped up. I cut off a piece of BB ply for the substrate and started at things for a good 15 min nervous to proceed. So i broke out the glue and glue roller. I"m not sure if regular woodworking glue is the best for this but it's what I'm going to use. I think i remember Ron mentioning at one point that less glue is sometime more with veneer so i may be dead in the water before i started with this one. I fear i applied too much glue and I'm going to be dealing with that. I used some towel to act as flexible cauls to distribute the pressure around. I figured if i can get 500 lbs of force from these clamps which is half of their marketed rating i should be around 25 psi which is more pressure than a veneer bag. We'll see how it goes. This glue dries fast so i may post an update in a couple hours. This is where i sit.
  14. 6 points
    After this many years of marriage ( 46 this Sat. ) , we’re pretty honest with each other. She doesn’t call me a genius and I don’t tell her she looks good in tight pants !
  15. 6 points
    I found a few pieces on the rack with normal qs walnut. 10-12" wide. I sat on them until the right project appeared. Used one for the doors here.
  16. 5 points
    Sorry, I didn’t mean to click on the sewing forum. Table looks great Kev.
  17. 5 points
    The best colors in walnut will come from walnut trees that are cut on a cattle farm or cut in the mtns with alot of limestone rocks. Limestone rocks can make the trees have a mineral stain in the tree just like mineral salt. I have air dried walnut and kiln dried walnut if it has the colors going in the kiln it will have them when you take it out of the kiln. But if you are steaming walnut you will lose alot of the color.
  18. 5 points
    Not a huge update, but I finally got some shop time today. I got everything milled down to final dimension and started on case joinery. The original plan was to use a Leigh jig that I got on clearance, but by the time I found all the parts, read the manual again and realized I would have to mill my parts thinner, I said the hell with it and just went with hand cut dovetails. I also decided to try the mitered dovetails as per the plan. Anyway, this is where I finished today:
  19. 5 points
    Many years ago I bought aluminum ZCI with replaceable inserts made of 1/4" Baltic birch. At one time it was easier and cheaper to just buy a bundle of the inserts then the supply of them dried up. The 1/4" Birch ply had to be ripped to a very exact width then a dovetail bevel routed on the edges. Once I am set up I cut an entire 5x5 sheet and make enough to last for many years. If you use thin kerf blades a ZCI can be reused for standard 1/8" kerf blades. Then you can reuse it yet again for dado cuts.
  20. 5 points
    Still not to the doors or drawers yet, but here’s where we are at!
  21. 5 points
    One of the projects to do after the dresser was a closet remodel. Some how i came up with the bright idea to make a unit that had 8 drawers in it with closet rod above and below.... I HATE making drawers. Before. Just had a single rod that was about 6' up with a shelf on top. The shelf was wasted space it just catches junk and wasn't very useful. The shelf and rod were removed but this illustrates it well enough. I scored some cherry MDF a while ago for $25 a sheet. Decided to use some of that to make this. I used birch ply for the rest to keep weight down and offer a bit more strength than MDF. I started by edge banding everything with thin strips of cherry. I clamped it on with green tape and was able to get 4 8 foot sections done in short order. I flush trimmed the banding with my router. This method works really well and quite quick. It's easy to adjust the banding if it's not strait, which mine wasn't even close to being strait. After i had everthing edged i joined the top and back together with a single domino to keep them in line. This way i could clamp a guide on both the top and the back and cut mortises for loose tenons at the same time. While i was working the domino would hold things in place so i wouldn't have to worry about bumping the piece and causing a misalignment. Vertical dividers got a dado for the middle shelf. The bottom shelves were attached with dominoes in to the sides of each vertical divider. I didn't want to just glue the bottom on to the dividers because the bottom would hold the weight of the clothing hanging and the weight of what ever is inside the bottom drawers. I figured having just the glue contention wasn't as strong as having to sheer a domino off and break the glue connection. This might be more visible in follow pictures. Case was glued up with epoxy, even with 45 min of time i was running on the ragged edge. I ran out of epoxy and had to use yellow glue for the back. In hindsight I'm glad i ran out because I'd not have had near enough and i'd have probably just tried to go thin with the epoxy and strength would have suffered. I used a couple clamps and probably should have used a couple more. I wanted to hang the closet rod from under the drawer unit but in a way where the hangers would slide with out interference from one end to another. So i devised a hook that would support the closet rod with out interference to the hangers. I made them from scrap so they don't really match but you don't see them ever. I did some strength tests on them to see if the grain direction would be problematic. I almost had to put my entire weight on 1 bracket to break it. So i figured 7 brackets should be strong enough. Drawers are all birch ply. I did cherry veneer for the faces just like for the walnut dresser i just completed. I had a 4' board so the outside 2 drawers are continuous grain that book match over the center. I then book matched the top to the bottom so it's a 4 way match. It looks real good but the closet isn't big enough to see the detail so forever only i will ever know what it looks like..... Oh yeah i used some curly cherry as well. It was one of my not so curly pieces the pictures make it look better than it really is. Mostly finished and loaded up. Some how i hit the drawer depth perfectly. I didn't need to put stops at the back. This never happens and if anything i call it a mistake because i usually try and make them a bit short so i have to install stops. The only other issue is because each drawer is in it's own tight box there is a heavy piston action. Pushing the drawers in and out is difficult on a few of them so I'll have to find a fix for that.
  22. 5 points
  23. 5 points
    Buy some door skin. Cheap plywood an eighth inch thick. Rip it up 3" rips. Bring the rips along with a hot glue gun to the job site. Bring a block plane too. And a tin snip. Scribe each piece to the wall. Then glue a lap joint in the corner. Then a piece or 2 diagonally. Now you have a template to duplicate. Cut each mitre big by an eighth. Then set up a router with a straight edge to clean up the joint. Do the biscuits or dominoes. You can glue on clamp blocks to bring the joint tight. A ledger board fastened to the wall either temporary or permanent will be easier to make the template. Or 2 more hands...
  24. 5 points
    Most torque specs state "Tighten until you strip the threads and then back off 1/4 turn."
  25. 5 points
    This is a fun and simple project to make. It consists of 12 pieces that are all the same size. The pieces are glued together to make 3 assemblies. Getting it apart or putting it together is the challenge. As always, there is a trick. Build Instructions: https://www.instructables.com/id/Hexagon-Puzzle/ Top Level CAD This is the only dimensioned part. You will need 12 of these. Glue two of the pieces together. Make 6 of these. Glue two of the previous pieces to make 3 of these assemblies. Complete pieces Assembled I'm sure a better woodworker could make tighter gaps but I gave it my best :). Thanks for viewing!