Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/22/19 in all areas

  1. 11 points
    SCM S500P (MM20) Bandsaw Review On a warm midsummer day, standing in my shop and sipping a glass of chardonnay, my wife asked me what piece of equipment I wanted next. I did not hesitate nor falter; I did not waiver. “A heavy bandsaw for resawing.” Her response drifted down on the wings of angels, softly, melodically, beautifully. “I don’t know what that is, but you have a birthday coming up, why don’t you get it?” My dream machine happened to be on AWFS show special pricing, so I did. I felt that I had to do due diligence even though I knew my mind was set on the MM16 Minimax bandsaw from SCM. The through-the-years closest-thing-to-a-consensus was that it was THE bandsaw to have for resawing. SCM bandsaws, with the exception of the S45N, are made by Centauro in Italy. I’ve sold lot’s of them and my customers were, to a person, thrilled with them. I also looked hard at the Laguna LT18, Laguna 18BX (great bang for the buck!) and the Felder FB510 and FB610. All great saws, but I’m at the point where everything I buy, I buy for the last time and don’t look back. Disclaimer* - I sold SCMI (SCM), Laguna and Felder equipment early on in my career. Having settled on the MM16 I dug a little deeper online and decided that the 20” model was worth the difference due to the larger wheel diameter = longer blade life on wide resaw blades. Plus, 4” more resaw capacity should I ever need it. I called Sam Blasco of SCM/Minimax to get a quote. Sam is a terrific guy and a very straight shooter. I also checked online and ultimately ordered from Elite Metal Tools. Same price, but freight paid. SCM quotes FOB destination with “white glove” service, meaning that if there’s any damage in transit, SCM assumes full responsibility - at a $750 up-charge. For the difference I was willing to take the risk and the machine arrived in perfect condition, having been drop-shipped directly from SCM in GA in their “ark of the covenant” crating. Arrival Wow, this thing is heavy. By my best calculated guess, the crate had some 1200 - 1500 nails in it. Not exaggerating. The machine was blocked up solidly and wrapped to protect anything from shifting. 10 out of 10 on packaging. It took 3 of us two hours to unload it from the trailer, move it through the garage and into the shop. Unpacking It took an hour to remove the crate and stand it up. No problems. FWIW, it took another 2 hours to break the crate down for reuse and disposal. Assembly Nothing much to assemble. We hoisted it up off the pallet using the beams in my shop and a come-along. I installed the casters/mobility kit and leveling bolts, scooted it off the pallet, cleaned off the packing oil from the table and waited for my blades to arrive. I spent my time waiting for the blades to arrive tweaking little things that many would say shouldn’t have to be done, but that from experience I know still do need to be done. More on that below. Once UPS brought the blades I installed the 1” Lenox carbide tipped resaw blade and used it to adjust the 90 degree stop, set the blade guides, etc. I was surprised, albeit pleasantly surprised to see that the saw has Euro blade guides. Almost all of the info I had read in forums said SCM had switched to Carter guides. In fact, I almost ordered the bandsaw about a year ago and was told that they only shipped with Carter guides, so I held off to look into other saws. Not that Carter guides are poor guides, they’re not, but I prefer Euro style guides. I contacted Sam again. He said they switched back several years ago from Carter to Euro. Ready to Run I’ll break this review down into two main parts. Part 1 is the greatness of the machine and what makes me very glad that I bought it. Part 2 are those little annoyances that I’ve found in most (but not all) equipment I’ve owned that I will soon forget all about. Part 1 The saw is a beast. It’s almost scary in its capacity. It has just under 20” of resaw capacity and carries up to a 1 ¼” blade with a 4.8 Hp motor. With it running and the guides all the way up I just find myself thinking, “Don’t trip. Don’t trip.” The guide post elevation system is the best I’ve come across short of a motorized system. If I set the guides properly all the way at the top I can lower them down the full 20” and they don’t drift front to back or side to side at all once the post is locked. SCM uses a chain and sprocket mechanism that’s independent of the saw body. +1 The wheels are very well balanced and heavy, ½” thick cast iron. They power the blade through anything. Power - Holy crap. The brake is very responsive, all things considered. There’s an interconnect to the starter switch, so when pressed it cuts power to the saw. I don’t know what these wheels weigh, but they’re massive. Stops in 1-2 seconds. The blade guide telescoping cover is great. As mentioned above, the Euro guides are simple to set without tools. I’ve used lots of different guides over the years, but the side bearing Euro guides I’ve always found to be my preference. If it had come with Laguna style ceramic I’d probably be just as happy, though I’ve found those to be a little trickier to set. It feeds at 5000 feet per minute. That’s fast. It would be no problem to put a power feed on this machine. The cut quality with a high quality carbide tipped blade is superb. I would give it one pass through a sander before glueing a veneer down. There is no discernible drift with the 1” blade. SCM touts the industry-only triple-box-beam spine on this saw as being capable of very high blade tension, meaning it cuts straight. For what this saw is designed to do, it does a great job. One thing to keep in mind is that the minimum blade width (as shipped) is ¼”. Anything smaller requires retrofitting guide blocks in place of the Euro guides. Part 2 It seems there are almost always some little annoyances that you notice up front that, over time fade from memory. Here are mine. Mobility kit sucks on anything other than a flat, flat floor. The casters are too small in diameter for this size and weight of a machine. The J-bar is too light for this size machine. It won't fit through a door and weighs over 200 lbs. more than my Sawstop PCS. The casters on it are too close together and the whole thing feels like it will tip over if you turn it more than a few degrees. I bought a Bora PM-3500 mobile base since… The doors have to be open 180 degrees to get anything larger than a ¾” blade on. If you have the saw near a wall that’s a problem. They could easily move the hinges to the left an inch and make the doors an inch wider so that opening at 90 degrees would allow access. Solved by the Bora mobile base. Move the saw out from the wall to change blades. Deafening screech on startup, meaning the motor drive belt/pulley was slipping. I called SCM and was told to give it time to break in. New belt, etc. I did and it didn’t stop. I adjusted the belt tension and problem solved. Table edges were sharp. Took a file to them. Solved. Fence was out of perpendicularity to the table +/- 1/64” over 4”. Filed down the landing on the bottom of the fence. Solved. I’ve read other reviews that find fault with the dust collection. I’m pleasantly surprised that it is as efficient as it is. One complaint I’ve seen more than once is that dust floats down from above like snow. There are two ~2” diameter holes on top of the saw connected by a weldment for lifting the saw. Cover them up. Solved. If you’re in the market for a premium bandsaw that will resaw whatever you throw at it, this will. I’m very happy with this saw. * For those familiar with my background, you can skip this. For those who aren’t, I feel pretty qualified to submit this review, having spent my career in the woodworking machinery business, from supplying upscale hobby shops to multi-million dollar production equipment. I’ve also been an off and on (as life permitted) avid woodworking hobbyist for over 50 years.
  2. 6 points
    Meh.... everyone should just invest their time / money into the tools / technology they want to use and enjoy the fruits of their labors.
  3. 3 points
    Many of my projects involve bow fronts, which result in compound angle dovetails ... I do enjoy building furniture with dovetailing challenges. Between furniture pieces, I find time to build a new tool. This time it is the Moxon dovetail vise I have been promising myself for a while. My first and only one was built in early 2011, after Chris Schwarz helped put it on the map. I immediately modified this design, and have been making modifications since. (Link: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/MoxonDovetailVise.html). This new Moxon incorporates the best ideas. Ironically, this design is not geared for compound angles. I decided to heed my own advice and keep it as simple as possible, and cater for the 90% of the dovetailing that is likely to be done. The width of the vise is narrower than my previous one, but capable of 450mm (17 3/4")between the screws. Most cases I built are between 350 - 450mm deep. My previous Moxon could do 560mm (22") between the screws. This is unnecessary, and just makes for a very large fixture. Where the old Moxon used wooden screws, which I turned, this uses steel Acme screws and iron wheels ala BenchCrafted ... except that these came via Tom Bussey (thanks Tom), which amounted to a large savings. The wheels are 5" in diameter on a 3/4" screw. The front chop is 5 1/2" high, and the Moxon is built in Jarrah ... what else do you expect! I went a little OTT in this build, but it was fun, and I admit I did become a little carried away Brass inlay ... The chop runs on bronze bearings ... Lining the inside of the vise is rubberised cork. This makes a great non-slip (not my idea - this comes from BenchCrafted, who call it "crubber". Simply search eBay for "cork rubber"). This vise is a good height for sawing ... There are a few innovations. The rear of the vise ... This is a spacer, and it can be locked into the up position ... The spacer has two functions. The first is setting the pin board (10mm) above the chop to prevent scoring the chop when transferring tails to pins with a knife (this is more of a danger with through dovetails). Also, by lifting the work, there will be light behind the pin board, and this makes it easier to align the edges. The crubber makes a great non-slip. The spacer may be dropped out of the way, once the height is set ... The second use of the spacer is that it has a sliding dovetail at the top, and this allows for the use of MicroJig clamps. This would be especially useful for holding wide boards, or tail board which have developed a slight bow ... I have used this on other fixtures, such as a morticing jig. For aligning the tail- and pin boards, I prefer a simple wide square I made from wood ... The spacer needs to be dropped out of the way for this ... Once transfer is made, reverse the board and saw the pins. This is where you will recognise that the cove is not simply decoration, but allows the saw to angle and get closer to the work piece. The lower the work piece in the vise, the less vibration when sawing ... And thats it ... the last moxon dovetail vise ... Regards from Perth Derek
  4. 2 points
    My wife requested a side table for the family room. This will be situated between two arm chairs, and replace the small table (which is too high and dominating) ... Not just a side table, but it also needed to house her needlework thingies. In other words, shallow drawers for cotton reels and sewing kit. I played around with several ideas, and eventually came up with a design that borrows a little from a piece I recently made. Lynndy liked the softness of the rounded dovetails and overall dimension of this coffee table I built some months back for a nephew ... The plan (looking down) would be to create a curved front and back, with round, splayed legs to the outside (an alternative is a straight, tapered round leg) ... In contrast to the Jarrah in that piece, the carcase will be built in Hard Maple, dovetailed and mitred at each corner. It will feature 8 drawers. All drawer fronts will curve as well. The reason for "Harlequin" in the title is that the drawers will be a mix of woods, as depicted in the elevation of the drawer section ... A harlequin design is often thought of as a diamond pattern, but does also include a rectangular checkerboard. Anyway, it's just a name, and I like giving my pieces a name At this stage I have chosen for the drawer fronts Black Walnut and Blue Gum. I may also add in Hard Maple. Always interested in your thoughts here. The Blue Gum is lighter than the Black Walnut and is a good foil against the Hard Maple … The legs will taper and curve from the carcase, attached with a loose mortice and tenon ... The sides and top were arranged so that the grain flowed continuously. The carcase is 20mm thick, 800mm long and 350 at the wide, centre point .. The initial dovetail plan was to keep the boards parallel and saw the curves later. It became apparent when joining the first set that this would not work ... .. there would be too much at the sides to mitre, and so I decided to shape the top and bottom panels at this stage rather than later. This was the first opportunity to use the modification I made to my Moxon vise (see article: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/NewMoxonMods.html). It now enables the pin- and tail boards to be clamped together to aid in marking out (see earlier photo). In marking out for mitred corners, the side tails are not sawn out from the front ... ... the board is reversed, and the mitres are marked ... ... and sawn ... The reason I had wanted to retain square carcase sides was that it would make it easier to square the chisel guide for the mitres. I got around this by squaring them to the front of the carcase ... The pin board is seen here ... One of the difficulties in fitting this many tails and pins is that any slight errors are magnified. The fit below illustrates that the left side is too tight ... To deal with this, the tails were given a pencil scribbling ... Fitting the board together left this behind ... This process needed to be done once more, before the fit was satisfactory ... The four sides were dry fitted together, and the front and rear upper and lower panels planed to shape (this was close but not enough) … All is coplanar … Where we are up to at the end of today … One set of mitred corners … … and the other … Next up is building the internal dividers for the drawers. Regards from Perth Derek
  5. 2 points
    This isn't a review of a specific product but more of a review of a product idea. I bought some of these magnetic shelve things off amazon to use as storage on machines. Most of our machines are steel and magnets stick well to them. I always loose pencils tape measure ect, and always have the Allen wrenches and other accessories that you need to adjust things. Before i used the parts treys which work but they made the Allen wrenches rulers and other steel parts magnetic which became slightly annoying. The shelf is a much better idea as it allows me to also hold non-magnetic objects close at hand. I have one on the front of my table saw that holds the adjustment tool for the incra miter gauge my table saw nut wrench and some allen wrenches for various jigs ect. I also have one on my bandsaw that is more centrally located that has a ruler in it (it's below the edge) a bunch more allen wrenches. and has more tape measures that are in plain sight. They have a weight limit and won't be able to hold a TON of weight but some hand tools rulers and a couple tape measures aren't half of what they can hold.
  6. 2 points
  7. 2 points
    Thanks Tom, Mark, and John. I will contact Richmond Woodturners. Today I used @wtnhighlander method of moist heat to loosen both cross members under one of the side chairs. Basically, used old rag towels, moistened, and heated in the microwave in a pyrex glass bowl. I wrapped a hot rag around each of the tenon/joint areas. Took 15-20 minutes for each cross member, but eventually the glue loosened up enough for me to turn the x-member. Front legs came apart enough to remove Sheltie's chew toy. If anyone can date the chairs by logo or pdtn/part/model # 11651910, pic of logo on chair bottom also below.
  8. 1 point
    Good choice! I found out about those top holes the hard way too. I added another dust port in the lower hinge corner of the lower door, on my old 600, and it helped dust collection a lot. Even though machines this size are still bandsaws, they put resawing several leagues ahead of the typical hobbyist bandsaw, and seem like a whole new category of woodworking machinery when you first run one.
  9. 1 point
    I just can't get over the size of that thing.
  10. 1 point
    I am not absolutely positive, it has been a while, but I think both drawer front and sides should be the same thickness when using the Leigh jig for half-blind dovetails. I glanced at the manual and it didn't specify, but I would call Leigh customer service before you do the veneer, and then cut the dovetails.
  11. 1 point
    Maybe try flipping the stretcher end for end? Start simple.
  12. 1 point
    Happy with my Hammer A3/31 J/P combo although I still lust after a Felder like @Llama ...after this basement maybe
  13. 1 point
    Brushes would be my first guess, since they sometimes shift on the commutator if the bearings have any play. Electrical connection in the switch (or electronics if it has a speed control) would be my second.
  14. 1 point
    So @Bmac Sanding went easier than i expected. I have some 3M sand paper the no slip backer kind labeled sand blaster. It's awesome stuff. The backing is sticky when it gets hot. So my hand sanding is usually done with a 1/4 sheet that is folded in half which i then hit with my heat gun and and then press the adhesive together. This makes it a bit more rigid and easier to use as well as makes it 2 sided. Conviently i have an object that needs 2 opposite sides sanded. I just hold it together with one hand and drag the sand paper back and forth inside and it took me 10 min to sand all of the inside like this. I might go and get some 80 grit to see if that makes it any faster.
  15. 1 point
    So i still have that idea itching in the back of my mind for the last table. I really want to make it delicate looking and nail the process. So I ran another test and think i got every thing figured out. First the test so you can see what I didn't like but also what I liked. The center "post" was just WAY to beefy. Further on I went too thin and have since decided the perfect thickness is 3/8". This also showed me that trying to perfectly measure and mark out the kerf width of the band saw blade is an exercise in futility. I determined that it's MUCH easier to make the cuts and measure as i go along. The problem i had with this test is the main bending pieces are not the same thickness and as a result bend slightly different. It's not that noticeable in the picture but the tops toe in towards the center a bit. Starting out my final test piece is going to mimic the size the real piece will be. I calculated that I'll need a 1_1/2" wide piece, 14_1/2" long, and preferably 1/2" thick. The piece below is 1_3/8" and that leaves the center piece a bit thin to my liking. I'm showing this to illustrate how LITTLE wood this takes. Which is sort of dumbfounding to me. I marked center and offset the center 1/8". I marked up 1" from each end and and that represents the line to stop cutting. This is important because uneven stopping points will result in a poor look. I was only marking one side of the board. I used the marks to set the fence and then flip the board over to cut the opposite side. This kept things symetrical and worked a bit faster. It's also critical to work from the center out. Working from the out side towards the center means that you have kerf cuts in your board pressing the board against the fence will close the kerf cuts causing a taper and a cut that isn't parallel. I used white lines to illustrate where the 2 cuts will be. You make the first cut and then flip the board side to side so the same end is getting cut. Or at least for my design i want it this way. Playing with the orientation of the cuts can give different designs and different effects. If you try this experiment it's kind of fun to try out. Below you can see my first 2 cuts. Now we will focus on the end closes to us in the picture above. I measured over from the outside edge of the kerf the thickness i want my bent "slats" to be. For this i chose 1/8". I've found thicker than this doesn't bend very nicely and thinner is too fragile (in my very limited testing). The key for the next cut is to make sure to align the OUTSIDE of the band saw blade with your mark. If you center or use the inside of the blade it will remove material from your slat making it too thin. (I guess it doesn't matter what side of the line you choose as long as you always choose the same side of the line from here on out). The white line above is a bit thick but it shows the idea. Here I'm taking the line as the right side of the white line was my keep side (I used a pencil line to set the fence and added the white line latter for illustration). Make the first cut flip side to side so the end you are first cutting stays the same. Stop at your marked stop line. For the next cuts, which happen to be my final cuts, I measured again from the outside edge of the kerf cut on the opposite end of the board. I measured over 1/8" and extended the line to the end. I then used that line to set my band saw fence. I really should have set my fence to the low position. Next time I'll remember that, well probably not. As you can see the wood is loosing a lot of it's stability accross the face. This is exactly what we want but also illustrates how important it is to work from the inside out. After the cuts are done you have a small piece that looks like some one really messed up on. I'm working on the rail design. Right now I'm leaning to cutting a groove in the top of the bottom rail and the bottom of the top rail. I'll set the side in the groove and glue in spaces that will hold the position of the side in the design that i choose. There is a LOT of flexibility with this. Right now I'm going for something symmetrical but will experiment more in the future. With spaces installed. The small spacers are 1" and the larger spacers are 2 of the smaller spacers so 2". When it comes to actually placing the side the top spacers will need to be a hair longer than 1" as the top has 4 kerf cuts and the bottom has 2 so the top will need to make up that additional material lost. I then had the idea to cut the center piece out because i thought it might look better. Ignore the rough bottom, If i did this method I'd make it just a thin kerf cut instead of a wide one. I don't think this will be my end product. If i widen the center divider by 1/8" it will help separate the 2 sides and will look like 2 arches. Ideally if i was doing a wider table I'd have 3 arches as i prefer sets of 3 but this table is going to be far to narrow to pull that off. What do you think? Pointer, if your band saw has a brake stop the blade before pulling the piece out of the incomplete cut. The sides of the band saw blade can cut the wood a little bit leaving a rougher side and a more jagged looking slat. If you don't have a brake this process might take longer as I advise to let the blade stop. So Mel if you read this proof that a band saw brake has value . I was going to post some pointers for making something like this at the end but I'm tired and forgot what I was going to post. Also my fingers are tired.... this was a lot of typing. Also too long to proofread, I'll probably fill in my pointers tomorrow when i proofread.
  16. 1 point
    I'd like to toss a bucket of cold water onto the idea that 3D prints or CNC routing jobs a 'set and forget' operations after the design is finalized. By my estimate, at least 20% of such jobs I have personally witnessed, or seen discussed by other makers on the interwebs, fail before completion. Tangled filiment, clogged nozzles, broken bits, all result in extensive waste and lost time if your don't monitor the job continuously. Murphy's law is fully enforced - if you aren't watching, anything that CAN go wrong probably will. Counterpoint, if I screw up a cut or break a tool, I can recover right away, because I am never going to be leaving my saw or chisel to work on their own.
  17. 1 point
    That's brilliant! I'm surprised the height worked out just right.
  18. 1 point
    I got the saw till made and installed today. I wanted to minimize how much I had to lift the saw to get it out, since the cabinet's up pretty high. I found that a large dowel in the handle worked, since the two saws that fit here are open handled. I used a rare species of ash, the reclaimed snow shovel handle variety that has dark grain lines. That's what was left over after I scraped off the varnish. The left side of the dowel is threaded onto a piece of all thread that is installed in the cabinet side. I used the thread taps and 1/4-20 all thread. The right side is a support that I wasted about 2 hours carving. Totally unnecessary, but it was fun. The top block is sized to allow the saws to sit with the guards on the blades. I prefer to store them that way. With this in, I realized that I could slip the tenon saw in behind the plane till. Fits perfectly, and I still have room for some miscellaneous stuff. I was looking, and my list of tools without a home is getting much shorter. I need to organize my squares and rulers, and put in the rest of my saws. At that point I should only have a few things left. Although I've almost fallen in the trap of going and buying tools I've been thinking about, so I can fit them in now... A nice set of screwdrivers, some gouges, maybe a shiny new square or two...
  19. 1 point
    I would not attempt to repair the damaged rungs with filler or putty. The results are very unlikely to be satisfactory. Moist heat can sometimes soften wood glue enough to allow disassembly. Or, the rungs might be cut off close to the joint, and the remainder of the round tenon drilled out of the hole. A decent turner should be able to replicate the pattern easily enough. As for the table, a better photo would help. If you know anything about what sort of finish is on it, that information will help someone here provide better advice about correcting the haze. Are these things valuable antiques, or just sentimental keepsakes because your grandparents owned them?
  20. 1 point
    I snuck in a few minutes to knock out a marking gauge rack today. It made sense to me to also put my marking knife, and then I added my most used awl. I like it for the most part, but I'm debating how I feel about the marking knife blade being out like that. When I went to grab the gauge beside it, my instinct was to grab from underneath near the blade. If it's possible to stab myself on this thing I'll find a way. That's why you'll see most of my tools have blade covers.
  21. 1 point
    I have my hinges mostly fitted to the cabinet. I think the end result looks pretty good. I went with the continuous hinges, but they were pretty industrial looking when they arrived. They had a very inconsistent surface finish, and were covered in sticky grease. I cleaned them off using denatured alcohol and then used a wire wheel on the bench grinder to even out the finish. I followed up by putting a thin layer of paste wax, and they now have a nice satin finish. I had to mortise the hinges into each side a bit over 1/16 to get the gap down to something reasonable. I'm pretty happy with the results. I clamped the cabinet down to the bench and must have stood there playing with the doors for a solid 5 minutes. One thing I discovered is that my doors are square, but my cabinet will rack a bit with the back off. I'm going to need to install it later today with a square in place, so I can make sure it all lines up. Once I have that figured out I think I'm on to finish sanding and breaking edges, then applying a couple of coats of tried and true on it. I want to match my bench as closely as possible.
  22. 1 point
    Beautiful work and good use of the contrasting butternut and walnut. Shows you have a good sense of humidor.
  23. 1 point
    i am rich, i just don't have any money
  24. 1 point
    not real common Drew, but there are those of us who appreciate a fine stogie at the end of a long day, I'm curious to see how it does at the silent auction, not for everyone but if you get a couple of guys that want it who knows what they will pay
  25. 1 point
    Derek awesome craftsmanship as always!! Great piece! Man is that going to pop with some finish on it.
  26. 1 point
    I finished gluing all the doors over the last few days. It mostly went well, although my parts seem to have had some minor sizing discrepancies. As a result, I'll need to plane or sand them to eliminate it. Not a big deal, just annoying. I was happy with how the dovetails cleaned up though. I needed a break from the main case, so I've started on the drawers. I glued up a pile of my maple scraps to get the backs and sides, then planed them down. I also got my drawer fronts cut to size. I'm really happy I found this board for it. Next up is getting back to dovetails for the drawers. I'm debating whether to bother with half blinds, or just do another set of through dovetails.
  27. 1 point
    I recently had a friend request to have a media console made. He moved in to a hip condo downtown that was a remodeled space in some factory or warehouse. I asked him what style he wanted he sent me a picture we decided on dimensions and i started building. I got to pick the wood. Beings that i didn't really care to do oak and stain and light wasn't what he desired cherry was the obvious choice. I didn't take many pictures of the construction because it was very similar to the drawer system i made for my closer but I thought the end result would be appreciated. In the following picture you can see the completed case. I used 1/2" Cherry procore ply. It had a center core of fir surrounded by 2 mdf cores that had the cherry veneer on top. I picked up the ply off craig's list for a mere $35 a sheet. I used some home sawn edge banding to make the front edges. The top corners were mitered. It was my first time doing a long miter like that and i'm quite happy with the result. It was the biggest source of stress for the project. For ease of construction the back was 3 pieces and i glued everything together starting from 1 side to the other. Planning everything was tricky and fun. The holes on the bottom are for fans to cool the central cabinet. He didn't want any shelves. The dimensions of the sides are 20" x 20" x 12.5" deep. The only other thing that my friend insisted on was that the front had to have continuous grain. He originally thought plywood but my first thought jumped to how I would edge plywood and make that look good. My 2nd thought was where i'd get 3/4" ply beings that the one yard that i knew carried it had closed. I found another yard but learned that it would be cheaper to do solid wood. Luckily i knew of some 10.5" wide cherry boards that were just what the doctor ordered. I found some nifty brushed aluminum and to maintain the clean lines mortised them into the door. Here is a shot that shows the side and the top highlighting the most important miter. This is the first thing you'll see walking into the condo from the front door. Because of the lenght i wasn't able to do a waterfall edge :(. He wanted it to be 7' long and 20" tall so ..... that was a missed opertunity. And i was holding what i think is the best for last. The continuous grain front. To make sure that i maintained the continuous grain but also didn't short my self on material i made the center doors as 1 unit and cut the whole thing an inch long. I dind't know how the kerf was going to shake out and didn't want to take risks. Luckily i noticed that there was some strain grain between doors 3 and 4 if you number left to right that would allow me to loose at least an inch if needed with out being noticeable. So i did just that. Other wise the other doors are separated by a kerf width. I don't think the picture does it justice so if it seems life it falls short it may just be the crappy camera phone picture. I'll someday get a better one with the TV in place for scale. I also added in some cable management as well as a permanently mounted power strip that is wired in place. I don't really like making money off my friends but this one made me a good chunk. I priced fair but scored some cheep material.
  28. 1 point
    Sign in a Ford dealer in 1971- Shop Rates- $25 per hour $50 per hour if you watch $100 per hour if you help
  29. 1 point
    Well written and documented. Thank you.
  30. 1 point
    Derek you do some simply stunning work!! ...and how about that rebate plane shaving in pic #5 ....nice!
  31. 1 point
    So Dr Derek how many times a day can I feel like you did on the screw up and still be sane? Seriously I know the feeling. And I hate that momentary thought. And immediately feel better when I realize all is well. The thought of the screw up reminds me to be thorough and dry fit. Thanks Derek. I am enjoying this build, the same as all your work.
  32. 1 point
    Getting better by the minute!
  33. 1 point
    Nicely done and documented. I like it.
  34. 1 point
    Still liking what you are doing.
  35. 1 point
    I’m in on this one as well Derek, wishing someday I will get to your level of skill, beautiful work sir!
  36. 1 point
    Not a problem Derek. I did a round over on dovetails on a bench, I really liked the look.
  37. 1 point
    You always make my day when you post a project. A question: do you plan to leave the dovetails proud? That might be an interesting look.
  38. 1 point
    Beautiful work! I would be very nervous the deeper and more invested I got into the project. And the demand of incredible precision would be hard on my well being. I will watch and appreciate your exotic skills. Thanks for sharing!
  39. 1 point
    Another great journal going here Derek! Thanks for taking us along I always pick up tips from your postings. This looks to be a really neat piece with some interesting challenges.
  40. 1 point
    Another lovely design, Derek! I appreciate the amount of construction detail you provide, too.
  41. 1 point
    I saw these on an old episode of Woodsmith Shop and decided to make 4 to use when breaking down my stock with the jig saw. They raise up your stock to allow you to cut over the bench instead of having to have you cut hang off the edge and needing to hold the off cut with one hand to keep it from breaking away and splintering. For storage I put an eye screw in he end of each to hang from hooks over head when I done with them.
  42. 1 point
    Had another request for these so, decided to do something a little different with them!
  43. 1 point
    Thanks all. Bench was a hit. The birthday boy has been ‘flushing the LEGO men down the toilet’ (i.e, putting them in the dog holes’.) ...still better than video games. Closeup of the bench crafted hi-vise turned mini-leg vise. Can’t say a bad thing about the product. Wow it’s well made. About the finish. While the chop is wipe on poly, I wrapped up the actual bench the day before, so I just wiped on walnut oil from the grocery store. The pine soaked it up and it dried overnight. No fumes. No smell. A great finish in a pinch to take the ‘raw’ look out of the lumber. Included a quick vid of me using the #8 to flatten the top. That, and traversing with my jack plane It made quick work of it.
  44. 1 point
    This was a tough project for me, and a small tribute in my way to Krenov. Rickey's (aka Spanky) curly ambrosia maple is the star of this show and makes me look better than I am. I've said before casework is not my favorite, I've leaned more and more to the sculptured stuff the past few years. But I'd have to say this project was not only a joy to make but a real challenge. Along with the above comments, I really wanted this to be a project journal. I've come to believe when you show your work as you are doing it, you become better from the experience. I also love following project journals and I'm bummed there have been fewer and fewer on here. I didn't want to be part of the problem. And no, I'm not a facebook guy and I'm not moving over to that format, won't do it. Ok, so here goes. I did a wine cabinet a month ago, it turned out well and I had planned to use the basis of that design to make a new liquor cabinet and buffet table. The old ones I have now were made by me 20 years ago and have held up well, but are blocky and unrefined. These will be great to pass on to the kids as they move out. But I wanted to update and get more refined pieces now that my skill level has started to progress. This cabinet has the same flow and leg contours as the wine cabinet had. It's 4' high and about 30" wide. It's made out of walnut I harvested and milled my self and some beautiful curly ambrosia maple that I got from Rickey. Here are a few pictures in production stage. I took these when I thought I could still get this in a project journal. This is a pic of a side of the cabinet, the 2 legs are attached to a panel with dados via loose tenons (aka Dominos). A view of dry asembly, the second pic shows I put 3 cross supports dovetailed intro the side panels. For the drawers I used a center guide rail, I like the simplicity of this and the predictability of this; Pic with the underside of the drawer; The doors were a challenge, and I'm not the best at them. I posted on these in regards to what hinge to use. I settled on a simple solution, but I do wish I attempted a offset knife hinge. My opening wasn't perfectly square. When I put the doors in with just dry assembly, here's what I got; The gap between the doors closes when the top hinges are placed. So I used hide glue for the longer set time and for my ability to manipulate the joint; I put blue tape in the opening to prevent an "issue". Here's a pic with the top hinges in place, presto no gap left; I let these doors sit in place until the hide glue cured. Then I hand planed the hinge side of the door to develop a uniform opening from top to bottom. Since I used a no mortise hinge I needed a slight gap for the hinges. Here's the final assembly, notice the matching figure of the 2 drawers fronts; The back is shiplapped sassafras, love the smell. Did not put a finish on this. Here's a pic of the door tenon/mortise joint, a little tearout on the tenon but still a nice fit; Custom pulls that turned out great; Grain match was ok, but wasn't a knockout; The cabinet in place; Handcut dovetails in the drawers; Fully stocked! Thanks for looking!
  45. 1 point
    Complete and ready to go (this is much nicer than my bench)
  46. 1 point
    Bench is now finished! I acutually finished the construction about 1 month ago, and have already finished another project using the bench. The only part that I still needed to finish was the chop, because I had some decoration to do on it. Final dimensions are 79 1/2" long x 25 1/4" wide by 35" tall. I didn't make a sliding deadman as I don't do projects that really require it, but I did route in the groove in the front slab in case I decide to make one in the future, so it will be easy to add if needed. As a present for finally finishing, I bought myself a Veritas BU Smoothing Plane to finish the chop. It is very satisfying to use. I also bought the front knob and tote to convert my LABP into a little smoother. This is a great upgrade Here are some details of the chop. I went with a gothic theme, and bonus points to whomever can identify the symbol (it's not religious or political or anything like that...): Anyway, that it. This was a fun build, and again I'd like to thank everyone else on here who posted their builds as it made mine much easier. Art
  47. 1 point
    I'm sure the mitre joints would be fun, but I had enough trouble getting good results on normal through dovetails. With where I am, building this at all should be skill building. I used the router to clean up the pins and it was amazing. So much easier and faster than chiseling everything, although I felt like I was cheating. The joints came together pretty well. By the end of the evening, I had a dry assembled case. Next up is the lower support, which gets a mortise and tenon into the sides.
  48. 1 point
    I'd tear the whole garage down, build it adjoining the house, make the ridge the same height as the other end, and same roof slope, with a matching hip. You could make it as wide as you wanted to. Draw 24', and see what it looks like.
  49. 1 point
    Made a fair bit of progress the last two days. First, I’m thrilled to say that my client is happy with an undercoat of boiled linseed oil and a top coat of polyurethane. That’s my favorite finish, so count that as a victory in the “influencing clients to choose a good finish” chart! I’m pumped. I now have all the walnut joinery finished. I assembled it all and used a little tape to help mock up the final look: The birch plywood panels will be up against a wall, so no worries there, btw. The client told me to not waste good materials on that side. The only trouble I’m having is that I made a rookie mistake and made the top rails all mortise-and-tenon rather than bridle or dovetail joints. I’m getting blowout on the end grain on most of the mortises because there's only about 3/16" of shoulder: Truth be told, I’m not that worried. It’ll be basically as strong as a bridle joint once there’s glue in it, and then it’ll be covered with a countertop for the rest of human history - not to mention that this vanity will be screwed to wall studs and never moved again. It’s already way overbuilt, even with the blowout. Next up is the plywood, I gues!
  50. 1 point
    Well, there is is, all complete! Sander is up and running and just waiting for the new DC piping! Huge "THANKS" @Llama for getting some measurements to me early enough to have the stand ready to go! Hope some people got a few things here that they can use in their shops!