Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/16/2018 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    I dream about a lot of highly figured things and none of them are made of wood, you are a true woodworker nut
  2. 8 points
    Made from Santos mahogany, which is hard, heavy, and criminally underrated as a furniture wood.
  3. 8 points
    Next up was cutting out the front and rear leg blanks. I do recommend having a third front leg as a test piece to dial in the fit, I found this really useful. Rear leg blanks after using the template on the router table. The joinery was cut in all four legs and dry assembled.
  4. 7 points
    i didn't want you guys to think i'm not doing anything, Mahogany with walnut splines, mitered pieces for the lid. i'm not sold on Mahogany, i don't know it just doesn't impress me much, not much grain and if i make another its going to be out of cherry i think. as usual comments or criticism are welcome, we're all friends here, thanks.
  5. 6 points
    60 board feet of Mahogany for my office remodel. 2008 Dodge Caliber. It it can be done. Loading The pile The room
  6. 6 points
    Try to get your weight evenly spread and as much as you can get the heavy stuff over the wheels. To much weight in either the front or back will give you fits while driving. It has been known to flip the trailer along with the car or truck. This is from an old trucker.
  7. 6 points
    I do some imprecise projects. Then I precisely set them on fire or throw them into the trash.
  8. 5 points
    That’s like asking “ is my wife ugly”! Post some pics for an educated opinion! Edit: pics of your glueup, not your wife
  9. 5 points
    3HP. I have a 1.75hp saw and honestly don't really see the need for 3hp. I do all my rough rips on the band saw and only rip clean jointed lumber on the table saw with a 20 tooth blade. I've cut 3" thick hickory no issues. If you are forcing lumber through a saw 5hp vs 3hp could help but a different approach could be just as helpful. I think a good blade that is designed for the work your doing is as if not more important than the power of the saw after a point. a 50T combo blade is not meant to rip wood thicker than 1" no matter the power of the saw.
  10. 5 points
    Results from the glue up are promising. I was able to move the case around and have leaned on it with more force than it should ever get in use and it was very sturdy and i didn't hear any cracking or other issues. Tonight i spent WAY more time than i wanted to applying stain to the entier piece and my shop STINKS. I wanted to use the same stain as the other furniture in the bedroom so Minwax provincial is what i used despite never wanting to use oil based stain again... I've started construction for the other shelf unit as well and should have that one finished in the next couple weeks.
  11. 5 points
    I started sculpting the chair using the holey galahad fine wheel, I found this to be a bit slow so I purchased the course wheel. This worked really well and was quite enjoyable to do. The 1/2” holes for the back slats were drilled. The rotex sanding helped ALOT. It removed the grinding marks from the grinder very well. It’s starting to look like a chair! As you can see under the rocker, at this stage I already started roughing out the back slats. I found that did this quite a bit, jumping from one part of the build to the other.
  12. 5 points
  13. 5 points
    So I just finished my first project. Media console Baltic birch plywood case and walnut top. Made lots of mistakes, least of which was dropping the cabinet when I was getting into the house. This thing is pretty massive/heavy, pictures don’t do it justice. It is 7ft longx22inchs deep. But good news is it held together except for one of the doors cracked along the rails/stile. I tried to fix with some super glue for now until it fully cracks and I will make a new door. I just wanted to thank everyone here for the posts and I have learned a lot and look forward to learning and doing more.
  14. 5 points
    Finally on the last steps of this job. Got the left bookcase installed after shaving both plywood sides by 1/8th . The walls in the house varied and when we installed the center mantle section I kinda painted myself into a corner. Trim , raised panel doors , drawer fronts and the Right side cases are primed at the shop. Now I have a disgusting amount of sanding to do. Abranet 1000 grit leaves a beautiful surface for the finish coats.
  15. 5 points
    I think I'd rather give up woodworking...
  16. 5 points
    Now that storage isn't an issue, it's time for that panel sled that I've been wanting to add for a while! Pretty quick and simple build but, a lot of benefit!
  17. 4 points
    This is something I came up with a while back and have made a few but I thought I'd post a few photos of this one. It's a marriage, wedding, or anniversary sign (plaque?) in Walnut with a Maple cross. This can be hung on a wall or set on the easel I also designed. It's got one coat of Nitrocellulose sanding sealer and one coat of gloss. Enjoy! David
  18. 4 points
    I have been lurking here for a few months, and I am working on my first "fine" woodworking project. A pair of mission end tables. This project started earlier this summer with a call from a friend. He had someone contact him with some white oak to give away. It was either grab it or it was headed to the dumpster. We went and took a look and decided that we would save it. It's all rough sawn, and cut to 4' lengths as that was what this guy could store. But hey, free wood is free wood, right? Not having ever milled rough lumber before, I took a bunch over to my friend's place to get to rough size. We worked on the pile for a few weeks (off and on), and I got home with all of the parts I needed, jointed and planed to thickness. I will say that there was a pile of waste with these. the 4' length didn't help either, as only so many parts could come out of a board. I'm learning, and trying to make a silk purse from a sow's ear at this point. I then ripped the top and shelf panel boards to width and proceeded to glue up the panels. (Note the Unisaw I restored this summer as well. I'll never go back to a contractor's saw after using a tuned cabinet saw). I need more clamps as well. From here I started working on the legs. There are through mortises on the legs as well as mortises in the insides to hold the "cross" rails. Since I don't have a mortiser, I decided to try to hog out the waste with a forstner bit and chisel to clean up. This was on a piece of scrap so I wouldn't ruin the good parts. It worked OK, but a pile of labor, and I wasn't the happiest with the end result. So, that lead me to build a jig for my trim router. (I don't own a plunge router yet, and I was taking shallow cuts.) This worked far better than the forstner technique. I squared up the holes with chisels. Tenons on the table saw for the side rails I changed the saw setup for the side cuts and tried a test fit. I little gap, but I am pretty happy with my first M&T joint. So I moved on to mortising the side rails and making the spindles. Since these mortises were hidden, I went a hair too long with the router for easier chisel work. I then dry-fit part of the assembly. I'm pretty happy with how these are coming out. The spindles are a hair short, so I may open up the lower thru mortises to move the bottom rails up a hair. If I do that, I am thinking about doing wedges in the tenons to close up the gap at the top and bottom of the mortise. This is as far as I am as of today. I am hoping to get some more done this week, but I do have limited time to work on this stuff. Thanks for taking a look!
  19. 4 points
    Chair is now in it's new home and the finish turned out great. Very pleased with the result even though I think I'll tweak the prototype some. Chair is very comfortable and looks elegant to my eye. I like the combination of the cherry with the maple and I think as it ages it will look even nicer. Grain matching also turned out nice with this piece. Right off the bat, a few changes would be a deeper joint for the front leg. I cut the initial dado at 1/4" and I think to blend the leg in more with the seat I would cut it at 1/2". I did end up cutting an inch off each back leg to give the chair a little more front to back angle and in turn make it more comfortable, so that is a change. The backrest turned out nice but I do think I would increase the size slightly. Also, and probably more important than the size of the backrest, I'd like to build in some lumbar support. This was on my initial "want" list, but because I bookmatched the pieces on the backrest for grain match, I didn't have enough thickness to cut in some lumbar support. Also, if I stay with a solid wood backrest, making the backrest thick enough to give lumbar support might make it top heavy. So I'd love feedback, this is a prototype and I would love to refine it even more. Here's the chair in it's new home in our foyer. Matches the oval table next to it very well. Love the grain match in the back rest, esp the little figure/knot in the top outer corners. Side shot, you can really see how much I scooped out this seat. Also pleased with the grain match on the seat; On this shot you can see I added some detail to the back of the backrest and I also added maple blocks into the joints of the back legs to give it a more rounded/beefy look. Couple pics of the joints; Final shot with the matching table next to it; Thanks for following this journey with me as I looked into designing and building my own chair. This could become addicting. I think I'll make more of these over the winter, but right now I've got myself knee deep into my second Maloof Rocker build, and I'm loving it.
  20. 4 points
    Been working on the top (after taking most of the summer off). I ended up using 5 pieces of 8/4 cherry with biscuits for alignment. I wanted to challenge myself and try breadboard ends, so I routed about 1/3 of the thickness from the top and bottom at each end. Then, I cut away portions of the ends to make 3 tenons. I also use the table saw to cut a slot in the breadboard ends to match the tenon. I used a drill press and chisels to remove material corresponding to the 3 tenons (in each breadboard end). I was a little too aggressive in the offset when I drilling holes for drawboring the 3/8 dowels as 2-3 of them sounded like they snapped when I hammered them into position. I glued the center tenon only but did add glue at the end of the dowels. The outer two holes in the tenons are slotted. Seems to be ok so far. After drying and trimming/planing/sanding the dowels.
  21. 4 points
    Finished the shaping and sanding on the chair, As I was hoping, the more I shaped the better the harmony looked between the backrest and the rest of the chair. I was a little aggressive in shaping, but I like how it turned out. I still think I will make the backrest larger in future chairs like this. Here are some photos; Shaping the legs and blending them in with the seat created a much lighter look to the chair. Also aggressively removing stock from the underside gave the seat a upswept look that makes it look thinner. On the backside of the chair I put in a few details, one purposefully and one accidentally. First, I inserted maple pieces into the backlegs where the leg dados came out. I did this to preserve stock and for strength in this critical area. This addition will show up much better with the finish on the chair. Secondly I added a nice scooped out detail to the back of the backrest. This was out of necessity since I exposed a domino here during shaping. I think that mistake resulted in a nice ending. Also, you can really see in this photo how much was taken off from the underside of the seat. Finally a boring shot from above, but you can really appreciate all the shaping that was done on the legs from this shot. I'll start with the finish this weekend and wrap this up after I show off the photos of the finished chair. Thanks for looking.
  22. 4 points
    I am thankful everyday for the things that I have and for the friends that have what I don’t.
  23. 4 points
    I won't elaborate on the problems (self made and otherwise) that I had with these, but they are done and the sound is great. Both boxes are veneered inside and out. The liners are solid walnut the bottoms are 1/8" baltic birch with walnut veneer. Finish is many coats of clear shellac and then waxed. It was worth the headaches.
  24. 4 points
    Chestnut, I think your little red wagon full!
  25. 4 points
    I hauled lumber in my 2013 WRX hatch all the time. Can get 8 foot material in there easily but not a ton. If you need ply buy a battery powered track saw and have your cut list and break sheets down in the parking lot. Did that to haul in my WRX a few times while i was between pickups. A trailer is the best non-pickup option though. Doens't mess up you interior and they haul a lot. I'd go smaller utility trailer i have a 4x6 that serves me wonderfully. Smaller trailers are lighter and instead of having to back up to them to hook them up you can just move them to the hitch. Also get outside the notion that all of your materials need to fit inside the trailer/vehicle. I don't know how far you have to haul stuff by my home center isn't that far so if i have to i take residential streets and stay off the major roads. Ford ranger from early 2000s with the 4cyl and manual trans. Learn how to drive manual you'll get high 20s for gas mileage and the vehicle shouldn't cost over 2-3k. Park it where you'd park your 10' utility trailer and your now free from having to hook up the trailer and have a 2nd vehicle when you need one in a pinch. A pickup will only cost as much as you want it to. I know that year ranger really well and there isn't much to break on them. Otherwise i bought a new GMC canyon, you can get them brand new for low 20k if you don't care about bells and whistles that are just going to break in time any way. I spent more than i needed to but i get upper 20s low 30s for mileage with the 4 cyl. I'd get better if i drove nicer but i DGAF about fuel mileage the difference between 20mpg and 25 mpg over 100k miles is under 3k. The difference between 25 and 30 mpg is less than 2k. To me it's all about the smiles per gallon and all of my cars provide that in spades. Pictures to prove my insanity. My red ranger got me 26 mpg reliably on the highway over 30 if i drove under 60. That's 16 foot treated timbers in a 6 foot bed.