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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/10/19 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    Hi everyone! I’m an older member who doesn’t post often, but here’s my latest finished piece:
  2. 5 points
  3. 4 points
    This is my little corner in my shop. All of the machines are out of the shot as I rarely use them. I make less mistakes and can catch them earlier if I do things by hand. I found one of my mistakes is letting my avocation become my vocation. My father told me this years ago. Didn't believe it at the time of doing woodworking for a business, but I understand it now as a hobby.
  4. 3 points
    I actually considered making it even crazier by flipping it, but decided the proportions were a bit off. I may use the idea in a later piece, though.
  5. 3 points
    A professional woodworker who was making drawer using tiger maple used to be criticized for using such expensive wood for them. His point of view was, it may cost 2X the price for the lumber but I managed to get 5X my highly rate because it looks more impressive. My personal issue with the live edge & epoxy river table, is the cost of epoxy. At 100$ / gallon, some of these tables are 100s of $ for epoxy (and most videos on youtube are sponsored by .....), But, they are using most of the time boards that would end up on the firewood pile... in some way it is a good used of a natural resource and creating employment for the resin maker. Going where the market is going, is a sure way to survive. As they teach in business school, you will not find that many saddle/buggy manufacturer anymore, there are some. One is a few hours away (in canada), many of the buggies used for military funeral in the us are theirs. Is there a market for them, yes, but very limited. Locally they interview an auctioneer about what is selling or not(city of 2M+), and most estate furniture do not sell anymore. Their size is an issue. Some condos now are less than 800 sq/ft (but still 300k$ and up), that fancy federal buffer will not make it. After being a weekend woodworker, I have learned to appreciate the work people put in their craft. Doing it for fun, I would not put 100s of resin in a table, but I understand some people may like it. It fits most likely in their overall decor. We personally had to furnish an apartment for a year, 4 hours away, while keeping our house. The plan, buy as little furniture as possible for the apartment, and at the same time, do not spend 100s in vehicle rental to move furniture away and back in a year. We bought cheaply made dresser, which retail for 300$ a piece,but were 2nd for 75$. Our theory, people are not buying heirloom furniture anymore, they want to replace them every few years, to stay with the latest trend (I called this the HGTV effect). Some of these dressers, were particle board cover-up with 'wall paper' for their finished look. The WW for mere moral: posted a video this weekend about what people are looking for in youtube vs what he is doing now. What he was interesting in doing vs what he needed to do on youtube to make a living (this video is being sponsored by XYZ...). This may interest you ... rustic furniture vs 'fine' woodworking vs what you want to do vs what you can do to $$$
  6. 3 points
    You’re one of the Ancient Ones ™ Its really remarkably stable. The legs spread out so that the top only really overhangs the footprint by about 1.5” on each side. No twist or wobble.
  7. 2 points
    That's good to know, hadn't thought about carvers, but don't mimic everything you see someone else doing.
  8. 2 points
    Finally home from a long work road trip! Had some catching up to do! A few projects to get done that have been piling up! Only the bathroom vanity was done for YouTube.. 1. Table Lazy Susan and a cutting board for 2 different clients.. 2. A thread storage cabinet for my wife's quilting room 3. Bathroom Vanity for a client. 4. And, a floating picture frame for a family member..
  9. 2 points
    I now have wheels! I have all the plywood in the picture attached, so the basic structure is there. I bolted through the plywood and stand for anything load bearing, and the rest is screwed through the metal and into wood. The casters are awesome - the lathe moves in any direction, and it's very easy to push around. I'm not sure how to space out the drawers. There's about 44" between the stand uprights. I was going to put the grinder on the right side which needs at least 15", and the motor on the left needs at least 10". I was going to use 3/4" ply for the dividers, so I would be left with a maximum of 17 1/2", so the interior of any drawer would be about 15 1/2" max, likely less. Since the lathe chisels are over 16" long, that doesn't work. I'm contemplating doing one wide drawer at the bottom that would be around 24" inside. That should allow for the current lathe tools and possibly some future ones. But that means I can't go with the simple construction I was thinking.
  10. 2 points
    I was thinking more of bent wood like a drum table, but I like your idea better. I could see dove tail finger joints done on an angle to create a polygon. Then he could plane the whole thing down to round. It would really look like something. I don't know @Denette you'd better get started on this project before we complicate the design any further . Now see what you've been missing .
  11. 2 points
    Circular dovetails would be very, very interesting!
  12. 2 points
    @gee-dub, I think you shoud hire @Tom King to come out there and put up a replica 17th century log barn with split cypress shingles...
  13. 2 points
    Sweet! Interesting twist on the base design.
  14. 2 points
    So, if you're an older member, what does that make me But it's a very nice table. The only (unsolicited) critique I have is that it looks kinda top heavy. How stable is it?
  15. 2 points
    Or the 5 star reviews that say “I haven’t used it yet, but I’m sure it will be great!”
  16. 2 points
    Hi Jesse, and welcome. The general consensus here is that the current 'rustic' trend is just that, and that it never should have become a trend, and that it will hopefully go away soon. Personally, the rustic look has been poisoned by the innumerable wanna-be youtube 'woodworkers' who, in fact, know next to nothing about woodworking & turn out the worst quality of garbage in the name of getting more views. All that out of the way, I don't think there is anything wrong with using pallet wood or barn board to build shelves for the garage or storage room or garden shed. It gives material that would otherwise be tossed a second life, and it doesn't matter if it is ugly. The current live edge slab trend, which also seems to be waning. has almost ruined the genre. There is some beautiful live edge stuff out there, the work of George Nakashima being a premier example. But again, there is so many bad examples of it being churned out that 'live edge' is coming to be associated with 'yuck'. That's the end of my rant for now.
  17. 2 points
    I enjoyed the work. I wish I could have convinced the client not to stain. I would have liked it more.
  18. 2 points
    Short update, only spent a little time in shop and have a busy weekend, so here's where I'm at. Finished shaping, sculpting all leg to seat joints. Sanded to 180 but I still have a few scratches to work out. also need to put plugs in and work those areas. Front leg area the tougher than the back area. Cannot be shy or hesitant, there is a lot of material to remove in the front leg to seat joint area; You can see here I have a little less width in the leg at the joint than above or below joint, I'll need to work on that; Also started rounding the underside of the front part of seat; Still need to work this area to make it look thinner; Flow to back legs look good, minimal work left here; Here you can see the side "wings" or extensions coming up from the seat and joint, want to make them flow and be mirror images of each other whether its side to side or top to bottom; So now I can glue on the arms and when I get back to this I'll be working this area; Finishing up the front legs took me 2 more hrs so I'm sitting at 27 total hrs. Believe it or not it may seem like I'm moving but there is a lot of work ahead of me still. Thanks for looking.
  19. 2 points
    Client dropped by and helped me stack the unit. They gave me an order for a matching desk! They must have liked it. The ladies present gave lots of oos and ahhhs. Orders are the equivalent of oxygen for me.
  20. 1 point
    4 file drawers and 2 small on top. Yet to come an 8/4 walnut top.. Then open shelves above...And another 8/4 top above the shelves... Panels are mill run fas walnut book matched. First project with my new Jessem. Very user friendly.And powerful with a 3.25hp porter cable.
  21. 1 point
    I thought that the build might begin with preparing the panels, since there has been some interest in the past shown in the shorter Hammer K3 sliders. Mine has a 49" long slider and a 31" wide table for the rip fence. The build is an entry hall table for a wedding present for a niece. Her choice was this mid century modern piece, which will be the basis for the build. My job is to re-invent it somewhat. She wants Jarrah, and I have managed to find something spectacular ... a subtle fiddleback (curly) set of boards that will make a book match (as they are only about 9" wide each). Most imagine that the value of a slider lies with cross-cutting. It certainly is so. However it is the rip using the slider - rather than the rip fence - which is so amazing. One side of each board was to be ripped on the slider, before being jointed and resawn. Ripping on the slider is such an advantage with life edges. No jigs required. No rip fence to slide against. Just clamp the board on the slider, and run it past the saw blade. The long sliders can complete the rip in one quick pass. It occurred to me that I should take a few photos of ripping to width since the boards are longer than the slider. Here you can see that it comes up short ... In actuality, with the blade raised fully, there is a cut of nearly 54" ... The solution is to use a combination square to register the position of the side of the board at the front, and then slide the board forward and reposition it ... ... and repeat at the rear ... The result is a pretty good edge, one that is cleaned up on the jointer in 1 or 2 passes, and then ready for resawing ... This is the glued panel. It is long enough to make a waterfall two sides and top section (still oversize) ... The following photo shows the lower section at the rear. What I wanted to show is the way boards are stored. Since I shall not get back to this build until next weekend, all boards are stickered and clamped using steel square sections. The steel sections are inexpensive galvanised mild steel. These are covered in vinyl duct tape to prevent any marks on the wood and ease in removing glue ... Done for the day ... Enough for the case (top/bottom and sides), which will be through dovetailed with mitred corners, the stock for 4 legs (yet to be turned), and rails for the legs (the legs will be staked mortice-and-tenon) and attached with a sliding dovetail. Regards from Perth Derek
  22. 1 point
    Starting a thread for those that might be interested in a supermax sander. I figured if someone wanted to post a future sale here as well it might help those that are looking. I was talking to Woodcraft and the salesman dropped a very strong hint that the Supermax 16-32 will be on sale starting Feb 1st 2018 for $999
  23. 1 point
    It finally arrived. Can't start the assembly or mounting quite yet since the "how-to" video won't be ready for a few days but heare it is..... www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Twon+turbo+vise&&view=detail&mid=43C3402A31E80818FFD343C3402A31E80818FFD3&&FORM=VRDGAR I have never seen anything quite so well packaged as this. I will peel back a few layers for you...... This is the plexiglass face plate - The gears will be visible when ti's all assembled. Also the 2 screws. Remove the plate and pull out a couple of styrofoam plugs..... Remove the plastic bags fo parts and the back of the vise is visible. Now to get some maple 8/4 maple for the jaw. This is the smallest of his 3 vises - 16" from screw to screw. I figure that the jaw will be 18" long. Plan to mount it as a front vise. Should look something like this when its done. I may take a few pics along the way but the assembly process will be on line. Will definetly review that ease or dificulties of the build and what I think of the vise. LInk: www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Twon+turbo+vise&&view=detail&mid=43C3402A31E80818FFD343C3402A31E80818FFD3&&FORM=VRDGAR Stand-by.....................
  24. 1 point
    I'd pull the pin.. You'd have to do that to change the blade anyway and I'm guessing they're going to have you do that in the trouble shooting process. Probably better to know before the call.
  25. 1 point
    The flowing lines are amazing!
  26. 1 point
    Since the piece is sitting in your garage, you might consider aiming a fan at it, possibly with a door or window open.
  27. 1 point
    True, it is a minor detail and quite frankly in my past chairs I've left more of an end grain edge there than most people do. But my concern here is that the way the rocker sits, slightly tilted back, that edge is more visible and I'm concerned the dye may make this area darker. Even with that said i still will likely leave somewhat of an end grain edge and test the dye on a piece before I put it on the chair. Don't like the knife edge you see some people develop. Thanks as always for your kind words.
  28. 1 point
    We do a lot of slab tables for retaurants and there offices. There is a a lot of money on the purchase end as well as the selling end.....
  29. 1 point
    Another thought on routers. Think ahead to a track system. The track systems, such as Festool's, are most commonly used with track saws, which are themselves a wonderful invention. A router that can also ride the same track is very usefull for a long straight router run. So I would give some consideration to what track saw and track system I'd want to be in. Triton and Makita have track saws, but I'm not sure of Bosch and DeWalt.
  30. 1 point
    NIcwly done, I like it.
  31. 1 point
    A circular carcass on top of that base might look very modern. Be a lot harder to do, though.
  32. 1 point
    https://www.lowes.com/pd/Triton-Tools-2-25-HP-Variable-Speed-Plunge-Corded-Router/1000758334?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-tol-_-google-_-pla-_-129-_-sosatg-powertools-_-1000758334-_-0&cm_mmc=src-_-c-_-prd-_-tol-_-google-_-tools-_-PLA_TOL_Tools_High+Priority-_--_-0-_-0&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=CjwKCAiA5JnuBRA-EiwA-0ggPTqwZQMot1k-7hgQE71lSvrdmHYJMW0dMzK9q0gzR2hTq1DjYkakNRoCO38QAvD_BwE This is a little more but an exceptional tool.
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    I like the waterfall of grain that goes from the top to the sides. And nice dovetails
  35. 1 point
    Not to high Jack but to only take advantage of the situation, who is the oldest member on here? I’ll go first at 70 yo.
  36. 1 point
    Damn, if drzaius is ancient, then me and several others must be fossilized.
  37. 1 point
    I'll bite. Having dipped my toe into the 'online woodworker' as a possible income source, I wish you better luck. As for producing an e-book, my personal experience at building with 'slab' material could have been greatly improved with some valid information about ensuring thick stock is really dry, and planning for wood movement in a realistic manner. Thick slab stock exerts an amazing amount of force as it shrinks or swells. After my unpleasant experience, I learned that ancient stonecutters used dry wooden stakes driven into holes in the rock, then added water to split the stone. It is that powerful. I later noticed 2 features of many Nakashima designs that made sense with that knowledge. He used much thinner 'slabs' than we tend to see today, and most of his bookmatched slab table tops, although joined with butterfly keys, have an intentional gap down the middle. It is obvious to me now, that he realized the force of expanding wood.
  38. 1 point
    Hi and thanks for the comment. I hear you. Fortunately, I previously worked in a custom woodshop building doors, cabinets and architectural millwork for several years where we actually thought about wood movement and the like. I currently work in a rustic woodshop where not much thought goes into construction other than to add more screws or bolts. And I'm certainly had enough of the epoxy resin. I have had similar thoughts as you. There is even fake barnwood stuff at walmart and pine slabs at Lowes. But I do enjoy the aesthetic of live edge and barnwood. I agree with you about Nakashima, too. One thought I had with my e-book idea was how to properly build with slabs while accommodating for wood movement. Thanks again for the response Jesse
  39. 1 point
    When I built my router table this was one of my goals. I'm going to add handles to the tray of bits to make it removable. I found the little plastic inserts At woodline.com.
  40. 1 point
    Honestly there are FAR too many variables to say Xhp will work. With a well setup efficient system a 1.5hp DC could be enough for a 1 man shop. 2hp would make things a lot easier. 3hp is enough to run 2 4" machines at once. 5hp is big enough to run 2 6" machines at once. 4" and 6" are the dust port size. If you minimize flex hose and move from tool to tool I don't doubt that collector would capture as much dust as a 4" port could collect.The 570 CFM is with 2" WC pressure drop on the hose so that assumes probably 10 feet of flex.Less flex hose is less pressure which is more suction. I have a 3hp gorilla pro their hepa filters are good and efficient.
  41. 1 point
    How many times have I heard that? Kev, you have as much space in front of your Kapex as I have in my shop.
  42. 1 point
    That's what I said, but my wife's not buying it.
  43. 1 point
    I have a punch list to work on now. Then the finish work...
  44. 1 point
    Mineral spirits and a comb works. For paint & finish waste, I mix it with wood shavings and let it dry, then bag it for the trash. Our local landfill will accept most any type of finish as long as it has cured.
  45. 1 point
    With the face on and the 2 adjustable shelves. Other than finishing and a few details, I am starting on the 2 tops. Some very nice 8/4.
  46. 1 point
    I'm going to avoid the cnc topic as that's something that's been talked about many times. As far as 3d printers go, up until very recently I was in the camp that had absolutely no interest. I couldn't see any need for it and figured they were too slow to bother with. I like to do power carving and like the Arbortech Turboplane. Anyone who has used one of these things knows they make an awful mess if you use them indoors. Arbortech is supposed to be coming out with dust collection for it, but they've opted to make their own grinder and the dust collection attachment only fits that grinder and you have to buy the whole kit. It's not going to be available in the US until sometime next year, which means at least part of the winter with weather that prevents doing anything outside. There's no official US pricing, but based on what I've seen in other countries it's going to be $250. I already have a nice Metabo grinder to use with it that I really like. So I did the math and decided that a $180 3d printer would pay for itself just by making a dust collection attachment for the grinder I already have. Plus I get a new tool in bargain. So for the past week I've been playing around with designing this attachment starting from getting a ring to fit the keyed slots in the mount for the guard on the grinder on up to a functioning item. The CAD part of it was frustrating at first, as I was dealing with trying to do things I've never done before in a program I'm not familiar with. But I enjoy the problem solving side of things. Getting to try something out and then be able to remake the whole part just by tweaking the design and hitting a button is really nice. I'm willing to try things out where I would have long since run out of time and patience with the whole thing if I had to fabricate it myself. At this point I have something that kinda works but I think it could be much better. I'm at a back to the drawing board point to try something completely different and that would never happen without the 3d printer to do all the actual fabricating. It does take a very long time to print the whole attachment, around 18 hours. But to be able to tweak the design in an hour or so and then press a button and the next day I just have the thing ready to try out is very nice. Making this thing isn't my goal. The goal is to use it to do the thing I actually want to do more easily. I have a cnc machine, but I don't use it to replace my power carving. The 3d printer isn't going to replace making anything out of wood. The computerized stuff just does some of things I don't want to do or am not able to do. Oh and as far as Marc goes, he already has 3d models of the furniture he makes. He could use a 3d printer to make dollhouse sized version of the things he builds for Ava with next to zero effort.
  47. 1 point
    Gee-dub, Thanks for the idea. Next time I have work that gets me working on the floor I will make some knock down tables first. Knock down puts me over the top. I have no room for fixtures that do not knock down. Making some progress...Shelves and 2 tops to make. The base unit is far more than half the work. And bench work agrees with me compared to on the floor with the drawers.
  48. 1 point
    I liked Marc's breadbox build very much. Alison liked most of it. We compromised and below is the result. Air-dried walnut with ambrosia maple door and drawer, with ebony pulls.
  49. 1 point
    So I was going through the Snodgrass routine and got to thinking more about that blade guard. Although it seemed intentionally loose, there is a spring that holds the blade guard to one side, there just didn't seem to be any purpose to making it that way. Spent some time looking at the mechanism more closely and found two recessed screws in the back. Sure enough they were loose and sure enough they were 4mm allen. I guess that the factory had neither files nor 4mm allen wrenches the day they made this unit. Anyway tightening the two screws solved the problem. Took out the shim.
  50. 1 point
    I would also recommend the Woodslicer, but I also have the Laguna Resaw King and it is an awesome blade for resawing.