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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/09/2018 in all areas

  1. 11 points
    About a year ago Fine Woodworking Mag had an article on a Clark Kellogg piece that stuck in my mind. I owe the LOML a small cabinet for displaying some personal items. I am drawing heavily from Clark's design in FWW and on his site. This is my take. I will be making it out of some tiger maple that I think I shared earlier. It has been waiting around to turn into something. Like Clark, I start with the curved door. Per his recommendation it is easier to adjust the curve of the carcass than to fit the door to a given curve. Makes sense to me, I'm going for it. A curved bottom plane makes quick work of the small door panel. A more-flexible-than-most Veritas card scraper cleans things up nicely. The other side is convex so a No4 sized plane takes care of that. And here's the rough blank for the door. This is just a demo of how something like a known thickness gift card scrap can augment your setup blocks. The extra small increment centered my mortises on my layout lines for the Domino. The dividers in the case are wedge shaped to give me the look I am after. The same bench plane as before takes care of this. The Incra rule is handy for this sort of layout. I must confess that I had questioned the value of a Domino as I have had it for some time but, never found it quite the right tool for the job. It really shows its worth in production style mortising. The layout lines on the dividers are used for the layout on the top and bottom. Part of the layout work with the setup blocks was the reference line for the marked divider to be positioned. I just use the same marks for plunging the mating mortises for these slip tenons. And here's a dry fit. There are a lot of ways to do knife hinges, here's mine. I apologize for being picture heavy. I hope it helps some folks. I use the washer to create an offest from the side where the hinge will mount. I do this to achieve an equal reveal all around the door. These Brusso hinges do not want to give up their washers so . . . I use another piece of gift card; perfect fit. The light blue line you can sort of see is the front curve of the door panel. The hole in the hinge centers on this line. A steel rule will help me square the hinge leaf with the carcass and provide a consistent position. Here's the gift card scrap standing in for the washer. An there's your spot. I use a marking knife to mark the position so I can return after the next step. My fingers show where I will scribe along the front and at the square end. Here I have marked it in pencil to make it easier to see in the pics. I stick the leaves on double stick tape. Trim to fit. Using a knife in the previously made cut as a stop I position the leaf and press it down to stick. Now, with the tape giving me super-human strength, I can mark around the hinge easily. And it's like so. I'm going to hog out (can you way "hog-out" when it is only about a cc of material?) the waste with a Dremel and clean it up with a chisel. I zero the bit and use the leaf to set the final depth of cut. And there you go. When you press these in to check the fit you can use the other leaf to lever it back out. I use the tape trick again for the door half of the hinges. I use something flat to help me set the hinge flush with the door edge. The other axis is set by the edge of the door dividing the hinge pin hole in half. I use a wheel gauge to cut the fibers where the mortise will extend past the face and edge of the door panel for a clean cut. The door is narrow so I add some scrap for support as well as a backer function. And it comes out like so. I use Grandpa's egg beater drill for delicate work like this. Dry fit the case yet again with the carcass side of the knife hinges attached (I just use one screw for now). Place the other half of the hinges on the pins and slide the door on. Again I attach the door with just one screw top and bottom for now. Open Sesame! I will add more as I go. I am only able to hit this project off an on for a while but, I will try not to drag it out too long ;-)
  2. 10 points
    Hey everyone! Back from the dead. Here’s what I’ve been up to for the last three months or so! https://imgur.com/gallery/heMQGGJ It’s a sideboard that will serve as an entertainment center for a client. Solid cherry all over, with cherry veneer plywood for the shelves, back panel, and internal vertical components. The only screws in it are holding the ledger strips in place and fastening the top via figure-8 fasteners. I’m pretty happy with it!
  3. 9 points
    I have begun the build, but was planning on a little more work before posting, since is just prep at this stage. This is the design chosen by my nephew .. There shall be a few interesting challenges along the way since I am using solid wood all the way. The joinery will be rounded corners shaped from through dovetails, mitred at each side. The challenge is to have accurately cut and fitted dovetails in hard Jarrah (no compression) as the outside will be removed in the rounding process. The other challenge is the splayed and angled legs which, for added strength, will be fitted to a traditional stretcher design, that is, the legs and rails will be mortice-and-tenon joinery. The legs will splay from the corners. Lastly, the drawer will extend the full width, and be opened from either end. No handles.Beginning the prep by resawing some really nice Fiddleback Jarrah, which will be the top and sides. The length of the coffee table is 1000mm ... I was watching the boards come out of the blade, keeping an eye on the kerf for movement. This even kerf told me that the boards were going to be well-mannered and stable ...Here's an example of the figure. These boards will be bookmatched to create a width of 500mm ...The lower side of the coffee table will be made of more "common" narrower Jarrah boards (still extremely nice!). I picked up a length 4m long, and then joined three together to get the width ...The boards were stickered for a week ..Some may have liked to have accentuated the centre figure this way when book-matching ...Too busy for my liking.I preferred this ...And this is where I left the boards at the end of last weekend ...I'll get back to the build this weekend, although Saturday morning I am picking up a new lathe (Nova Saturn DVR). I think that this will do a better job turning the legs than my current Jet mini Regards from PerthDerek
  4. 9 points
    I know I'm wasting my time on this... But, almost everything... The problem with woodworking is your needs are the same as a pro... At the end of the day you still need precise joinery, which comes with working with flat material. Please feel free to disagree and shout "elitist", but you can't change the basics. What is complicated to understand is how someone asks a question and gets honest feedback related to all aspects of that situation. Then decides to complain that the feedback they are receiving isn't in line with their own research. It is by far the most disheartening aspect of being a member of any forum.
  5. 8 points
    I have read this thread, I don't know maybe 50 times. I guess I read it for all the comments you guys have put on here, but the reality is I read it to confirm what I don't want to believe. The singular most influential and beautiful human I've ever known is now lost to me in life. And I don't know or understand, why her? She was gentile, loving, never met an enemy, shined her light on many people around here that thought the world of her. 21 years ago, she literally saved my life. If she hadn't jumped across a couch and landed in my lap and whispered to me, I would have left the planet 2 days later. The how and why is unimportant, but, this angel without knowing it caused me to try life again. And I've never regretted a single moment. She was joy personified. She was gifted when it came to me. She had me wrapped around every finger on both hands, and I love her for that. I know where she is, I know she doesn't hurt. I know she is making those around her smile. I hope the change she made in me, will help me one day to be with her again. If not, all my life before her takes me elsewhere. To a place I no doubt deserve. You guys have, in your own small ways have helped me get through til now without her. I can't thank everyone of you enough for all your assistance. I still cry 1 to 100 times a day, I still reach for her in bed. I find things of hers that rip my heart out over and over. But, I have been the luckiest of men, I loved and was loved by an angel. No one can ask for more. Thank you, everyone. from my heart, thank you. Rick
  6. 7 points
    Picked up a copy of this book and spent last evening perusing it. Great book. It covers history & style and options I'd not seen previously. There are lots of techniques provided for joints, doors, etc. Before the projects is a section on sub-components. Drawers, doors, etc., get a good treatment. The projects in the book are not the "crafty" looking projects that are in so many books. They're quality designs. Put it on your Christmas list. It's a very useful reference and project book.
  7. 7 points
    Wow, I've been slacking. No tip since June!?! I imagine we've all been working on something where a bit of "handling damage" occurs in the worst spot. I knocked this little corner off and of course it would be right where two parts butt up to each other in what should be a tight seam. If you are lucky enough to find the wandering bit of material, use a length of clear scotch tape to pick it up. Use a nice long piece, tape doesn't cost much and this gives you adequate "handles" to hang on to. You can see through the tape so that you land the repair right on target. You can see that I actually missed a bit in this demo shot. The tape makes it easy to practice your landing. Add a drop of CA, zero in and land the piece, use the tape to hold it still and in a few moments you have your nice crisp corner back. I did touch up a little CA squeeze/stain with some very fine sandpaper.
  8. 7 points
    I added a couple more braces from front to back. They should stiffen it a bit, and they give me a spot to attach the plywood bottom that will keep dust out of the drawer. I attached my tools and took it for a test spin. Seems to work well. The balance is really good, so it doesn't take much effort to flip. I bolted through with t nuts, which should be secure without protruding too far on the opposite side.
  9. 7 points
    Based on information gained here I found the product stop loss bags. A way to preserve finishes. The package comes with 4 bags. I opted for the funnel and the xtra caps. A great idea. But I had a defect in one of the bags. I was successful with 3 bags. I thought it may be the cap. It was the bag. I called woodcraft and they are sending me a 4 pack of bags and a quart of general armRseal, That was their offer. Couldn't be more fair than that. I end up better than whole. I like this company.
  10. 7 points
    Wife wanted these for some artwork. A little different but, certainly not difficult.
  11. 6 points
    Sawstop Inline Router Table My wonderful wife asked me what I wanted for my birthday next week so I obliged with a list. She recognized the Sawstop name and ordered the 27” x 16” inline router table and dust box to replace my shop built router table I’ve been using for years. It arrived yesterday, so you know where I’ve been today. I’ll bore you with a little of my background. I’m retired from 30+ years in the woodworking machinery business, starting with the types of tools all of us here are familiar with - upscale hobbyist to small production shop woodworking stuff. From there I moved on to heavy industrial production machinery and finally to specializing in industrial CNC equipment before retiring a few years ago. I’ve also been a lifelong hobbyist. With that out of the way… Impressions I’ve said it here and other places, but I’ll say it again. I’ve never, ever seen a company do a better job of making it as easy as possible for a consumer to understand and assemble their product than Sawstop. Any machine, any level, and I’ve probably assembled many hundreds. From packaging to manuals, they do it right. Here’s an example. Four of the five boxes inside the large (very heavy duty) shipping box contained a note indicating that the manual was in a separate box. The manual was in the fifth box with the cast iron router table.The manual is 62 pages of photos with detailed explanations of what hardware to use where. Each bag was labelled with the assembly it went to. When I unpacked the router table itself I noticed what looked like a scratch in the cast iron. Sure enough, it was. Then I noticed that there was an identical scratch on the opposite edge - for lining up the fence to the center of the bit. Devil in the details. This thing is really, really solid, really well built, end to end. The surface is flat using a Starrett 36” straightedge. I could not see light below the edge. The fence body is a very heavy anodized extrusion with integral dust port, side to side adjustment and T-slots for accessories. They include (hard to describe) T-slot spacer shims that let you use the fence like a jointer by offsetting the right and left fence faces. The fence itself is perfect for a table saw installation. On and off takes seconds, 90 degrees square to the table with a Starrett combination square. The extrusion looks almost identical to the JessEm Mast-R-Fence II extrusion other than the anodizing color. It differs in the way the fence faces slide side to side in T-tracks on the Sawstop vs in slots in the extrusion itself on the JessEm. It also mounts directly to the table rather to the side tracks on the JessEm. The router mount plate has 10 (10!) leveling bolts with lock nuts for precisely adjusting it to the table surface. The legs seem significantly beefier than the legs that came with the saw. The leg mounting brackets definitely are. It includes a paddle switch that the router plugs into, as well as holders for the tools like insert ring wrenches, height adjustment tool, etc. Installation It took more time to remove the old router table than to install the new one. It took about 2 hours to assemble and install the new table. That included disconnecting the outfeed table, cleanup, etc. I installed the Sawstop router table (SSRT) on the right end of my Sawstop PCS, 36”. I did not install it in any of the 3 suggested ways covered in the manual. The 3 ways listed in the manual are to the left of the blade, to the right of the blade with an optional 10” cast iron insert or with a shop made spacer insert like the laminate covered one shipped with the saw. I chose to instead mount it directly to the right extension wing with no insert. I did it because the SSRT is just long enough (16”) to still support the fence at its full 36” width, AND it lets me avoid the dust pipe that drops at that exact 36” width (see photo) for the big majority of the work I do with the router table. I’m going to give this a shot and if I don’t like it I’ll add the insert back in. I got my saw before Sawstop took on the router table line, so the rails were never intended to support them. Because of this, Sawstop offers new rails that are drilled and countersunk for the SSRT and notched for the miter slots in the SSRT. My rails don’t line up. In the photos you can see that I notched my rails for my old table and that’s what I plan to do for the new one. I don’t see the need to buy new rails, especially if I keep the setup as it is. The only disappointment I have is really with myself for not thinking to ensure the dust box was big enough for my router. I chose to keep using my 3 ¼ Hp Triton router. It has an integral lift micro adjustment and has been great. The router is way too big for the box. I can barely get my hands inside and have to pull it out to adjust it. That said, the dust box is well worth the money with the right router/lift mechanism. It has dual sized ports for the fence dust collection and from the box, adjustable draft vent and a magnetic door latch, as well as a split port for running the router power cable to the switch. Well thought out and well executed! Oh well, now I know what to ask for for Christmas! The SSRT fits standard router table inserts like the Kreg phenolic I’ve used for years. Summary I wouldn't hesitate to recommend this table to my best friend!
  12. 6 points
    Not sure how many linear feet of sharp edges I have eased with this little Miller Falls plane. I resaw a slice off a blank that will become the top and or bottom. I'll use that slice later on for spline material. I cut a curve on the front of the top/bottom of the drawer carcass to match the planned arc at the front of the cabinet. I give the faired curve a profile with a shave. I cut out and shape the remainder of the drawer carcass parts. I use that resawn piece for splines. The grain runs across the short dimension just as when you use this for reinforcing miters or what not. I add an 1/8" x 1/8" dado at the joints that will be splined. I think you can see where I am going with this. I want the top and bottom a bit thinner. I thought the profile would lighten the appearance enough but, I'm not satisfied yet. To be continued . . .
  13. 6 points
    In this project I design and build a bench incorporating Japanese style architecture, as well as in lay some bow ties/butterflies along a crack I carve as a decorative feature. Depending on how you argue the semantics of what joinery is, their are 5 or 6 different types of joinery in this project. Used a dado blade to cut the bridle joints on the tablesaw I tried to find piece of walnut that had grain flowing in the direction of the decorative arch Hollow mortiser left the walls of the mortise rough so I cleaned them up with a chisel Angled tenons to match the taper on the legs. cut with a combination of dado blade and a Japanese handsaw Hand chopped with chisel and mallet planed flush
  14. 6 points
    Wife’s uncle from Louisiana let me cut down a walnut from his property 4 years ago and I brought it back to have it milled and he’s seen the slabs stickered since then. He was in town 3 weeks ago and rode with me to Rockler and saw the walnut slabs there for $450 and up. I had to buy their dinner the whole time they were in town.
  15. 6 points
    How about sharing with us the things you plan to make? In reality, that will dictate the best choice of tools, more than budget. And let me clarify one point. I advised against spending money on inexpensive benchtop tools, because that is exactly what I did, and have regreted every penny spent that way. Yes, it is possible to build things with cheap tools, but to build things WELL with cheap, inconsistent tools requires a lot of patience, and a decent understanding of how those cheap tools are affecting your work. The fact that you mentioned a surface planer tells me that you expect to work with larger material. That influenced my suggestion to buy the DW735. I suggested that you stay away from sub-$500 benchtop bandsaws, because I had a couple different such machines. One, a Craftsman 3-wheeler, was a completely worthless piece of junk. The other, a steel-frame Craftsman 10" saw, was a perfectly good saw for small, scroll-type work, but its size limited it to handling almost nothing more than a jigsaw can do. I also own a benchtop jointer. Although the fence is a bear to keep straight and square, it will joint small boards well enough. But all too often, I find myself doing stuff like this: Which is really, really stupid. Save youself some headaches, and listen to the advice you asked for. It is worth a good deal more than you paid for it.
  16. 6 points
    Nick may have stopped listening at this point but, to say that "no one has any decent input" is inaccurate when you have very good input from the first four responses. The folks here are not hoity-toity and recommending high-end, top-dollar tools like some forums do. They are also not going to tell you what you want to hear if this is going to steer you wrong. I re-started my journey with a 113. Craftsman/Emerson saw and 12" Craftsman bandsaw that cost me $180 for the pair. I did have to throw another few hundred dollars at them to get them working safely and reliably but, I was still money ahead. Once I realized that I was going to stick with it, this is where you seem to be now, I started squirreling away money while I diligently crawled the forums looking for those "best bang for the buck" tools that are out there. It helps to have a long-game. I used a planer sled for 18 months while I saved up for the jointer I wanted. That let me make items that bought me a planer and bandsaw upgrade . . . and so it goes. A bandsaw will take you farther, faster than almost anything this side of a good router combo. I would spend my dough there and set my sights on what's next. If none of this sets well I'm sure there's someone on some forum that will tell you how great the new Harbor Freight jointer is but, that would absolutely not be "decent input".
  17. 6 points
    But then I'm still paying $99/year in US $$$. That's about $4000 in Canadian.
  18. 5 points
    Got the case all painted. Fitting the doors an hopefully finishing it up this weekend.
  19. 5 points
    Alright, it is done. A3-31 it is.
  20. 5 points
    To each their own and there's no wrong answer. Both are very good saws. For me, it will be the PM. I just want nothing to do with fiddling around with the technology. Yes, I realize that it can save digits. So can good table saw practices.
  21. 5 points
    I finished this last week, but didn't get to take any pictures until this weekend. This is my second Three Sided Bowl design and I am really taken with this form, so there will be more. I showed the first one back in the spring. This one has a thinner and more delicate bottom section and the bottom curve of the basin echos the curve of the oval window. It's hard maple and I used a gel varnish for the finish instead of my usual go to of mineral oil and wax. I don't personally care for a very glossy finish, but the wax was always a bit dull and I like this satin sheen. Over all size is 6 x 6 x 4.
  22. 4 points
    The design was inspired by the work of the Greenes with some additional inspiration from some of Darrell Peart’s creations. I combined the elements of various pieces to get a look that I like. Like every project I learned a lot in the process. I found some techniques that I did and didn’t like. I spent a good amount of time building jigs with the thought that I might eventually try to sell one. One of the jigs allowed me to make the ebony plugs on the router table which helped speed things up a lot. In spite of a few mistakes, I am thrilled with the results. My biggest area of improvement is finishing. I won’t be build another piece this size without an HVLP. The desk is made from African Mahogany with the exception of the plugs that are made from Ebony. The finish is General Finishes water based dye stain with an Arm-R-Seal topcoat. Andy
  23. 4 points
    For those that don't know, I've started construction on a new shop. I was hoping to film it all but, work got in the way so, you'll have to settle for some time lapse (mostly) of the building going up. Will be 30 x 60 and the wife will get about 25 feet of it. Heating/AC will be via mini splits unless they won't keep up with Montana cold and then I'll drop in another pellet stove. Brand new 200 amp service and all the big machines will have power outlets in the floor. There's just no way that I can remember and write all the details here so, will catch them as you guys toss them out.
  24. 4 points
    For Christmas my dad mentioned that he would like a way to store fishing rods at his house. He does most of the fishing at his cabin so he just needed something small for a few rods. A while ago he mentioned that he liked the look of of the Russian olive slabs he helped me move. I made a mental not to save them specifically for a project for him. Russian olive is an invasive species that was introduced into the Midwest during the 1930s as a means to prevent soil erosion. It's a tree that survives dry conditions well and can handle the harsh winters that are often typical for northern states. The tree like many other introduced species ended up becoming a plague. Because of it's robust nature it started spreading and quickly became a plague of the natural grasslands. Many efforts have been taken to remove the trees and they have been mostly successful. While called olive, it is not related to true olive woods. I got a few small slabs of it from a guy in ND. I went with a simple design that i created after looking at the google image search for fishing rod holder. A lot of them were 2 sided so i made one except made it one sided to go against a wall. I cut the slab up into 1" thick boards milled everything down. To make the rod holder parts i too a board that was the same width as the sides and drilled 5 holes spaced 4" apart. Then i cut the board down the middle leaving half circles. Joinery is dominoes. Finish is wiping poly.
  25. 4 points
    I respectfully disagree about the deadman, for me, it provides support for larger pieces, whether it is a panel or single piece of wood. Working by myself I need all the help I can get. Using shop made "bench pups", from an article in FWW, creates all kinds of creative work holding ideas. I made my bench 30" wide for that reason, and I can clamp a full sheet of ply to it and cut it with my track saw. Oh and don't forget the paper roll for glue ups and finishing.