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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/20/2018 in all areas

  1. 14 points
    I wasn't certain where to post this so mods please move if needed. I took a ton of photos during this build but I certainly won't bore you with all those and I have a few videos but none in presentation form. The build is well documented and I may do a video compilation one day if I have time. I've mentioned this many times over the last couple of years and it's finally to a point where I can post photos. Over the last 30 years or so I have replaced tops, backs, done fret jobs, inlay, glued braces and lining, refinished, made bridges, saddles, and nuts, replaced tuners, and all kinds of repairs, etc. but this is the first guitar I've built from scratch. I cut all the wood for this including resawing the back/sides/top, cutting the binding and bracing from lumber or billets, etc. Along the way I've designed and built my own modular cantilever side bending fixture that will accommodate sizes from Jumbo down to 0, possibly smaller like a Ukulele. I'll post photos of the side bending fixture later and also built all the forms, fixtures, templates, and jigs for the build. I started the build a couple of years ago just working an hour in the evening, sometimes two, and some on weekends, but I put it aside and didn't touch it for about 8 months. I'll tell you ahead of time that it sounds good, is bright, has great sustain, and plays very easily with good action. But it may be a while before I make a video of it being played. Back and sides - Honduras Mahogany Top and bracing - Sitka Spruce Neck - African Mahogany with Maple and Honduras Mahogany center pieces Headstock, rosette, arm bevel, heel cap, and tail wedge - Walnut burl Headstock inlay - Zebrawood Fingerboard, bridge - East Indian Rosewood Binding, purfling - Zebrawood and Maple Sound port lining - Macassar Ebony Solid lining - Honduras Mahogany Side braces - Honduras Mahogany Finish - Shellac (French polish), measured just over 1 mil at the bridge The neck is bolted on and I devised a way for it to be completely removable. It can go from tuned to pitch to neck off in about 5 minutes. In the week that the guitar has been tuned to pitch it is holding its tuning as good as my other guitars. The intonation still needs some minor tweaking but I'll play it a while before working on it again. Assuming I like it enough to play in church I'll install a K&K Pure Mini pickup. If I decide to just play it at home and with friends I'll save the pickup for a future guitar. In the meantime, here are a few photos of the build and some of the finished guitar. Back bracing with Padauk glue strip - Top bracing - Gluing the back in place - Finished guitar. I didn't want a super high gloss finish but rather decided to do an old world vintage patina. Nothing against the super high gloss finishes but I have 5 guitars with high gloss finish and wanted this one to be different. Now that I've done it this way I like it even better than I thought I would. So feel free to comment, ask questions, critique. I have about 1,500 photos of the build and good documentation but these few photos tell the story just fine, I think, so I'll spare you the copious extras. Enjoy! David
  2. 13 points
    My new apprentice began today. First thing I taught him was the Mike Pekovich blue tape trick for laying out mortises (which works great by the way). Not sure if Mike will appreciate my grandson’s interpretation, but he’s in the shop. He says it’s an airplane. Fine by me. He seems to really enjoy making things and I’m going to encourage that every time I get the opportunity. At the bench, working out some design issues. He’s just like grandpa, has a running conversation with himself in the shop. After three coats of Summer allergies snot, it’s ready to go. Pass your love of craft on. The next Krenov may be lurking at your bench.
  3. 10 points
    He is happy and his employees like it better than the MDF garbage off the shelf.
  4. 10 points
    Arrived home home about 1am this morning, had an amazing time at Marc Adams and Mike was an awesome instructor! It was a lot of long days (11-12 hrs per day) for the week but after 54 hours in 5 days we went from this: to this Still have a bit to do like finish shaping the legs and stand parts, final fit of door, finish, and glue up, but what a great week if you ever get the chance to take a class from Mike I highly recommend it. The school is amazing as well. The facilities are top notch with an amazing amount of tools, machines, and space. I will definitely be heading back next year. Over the next couple of days I will go through the pics I took and post some up. To be honest we were so busy most of the week I didn't take a ton of pics but I'll post what I have.
  5. 8 points
    Here a couple pics of curly cherry lumber. Look at the outside of the boards in the first pic, thats what a curly tree will look like.
  6. 8 points
    Was that a pun? If so, I am going to file that away as a little abrasive. But I suppose you could use puns to take the edge off. Sorry everyone but as a dad it is in my blood to make dad jokes. I can't help it.
  7. 8 points
    My kids have gotten into board games a lot over the past few months. The kitchen table doesn't work all the time for playing because if games run into supper time there's a lot of drama with getting the table cleaned off. The floor is uncomfortable for playing so I wanted a big coffee table that could handle a good sized board game. I'm already done with this so I'll post the finished version first. Its made mostly out of maple I found for cheap ($1.50 bf) at habitat for humanity. The panels and top ended up being maple plywood. I'm not great at taking progress pics so forgive the huge gaps in progress. I only rough sketched the design before I got started which will probably seem obvious in the end. Here's the material I started with after a rough cutting some of it down. Trying to get a sense of scale to figure out how tall and wide it should be Laying out a drawer front. Drawers and sides were put together with tongue and groove. The side panels are mortise and tenon into the legs. Side panel glue up: This was my first time working with maple and first time doing a breadboard top. The maple is really unforgiving for showing gaps in any of the joinery because it is so light. I intended to peg the breadboards only through the bottom but messed up and ended up drilling one hole all the way through the breadboard. So I tried to patch it with a plug but my plug cutters are crap and they don't even match what size they are supposed to be. So then I ended up routing out for a dutchman patch, but even at my best I couldn't get the lines around the patch to be as small as I wanted. Damn maple, why you gotta be like that! I thought maybe after some finish went on it would look better but it looked worse. Finally I gave up on it and made a second top with a walnut border around it to hide any deficiencies in the joint between the top and border. I'll repurpose this patched top for an outdoor table or something (after painting it). Here's a view of how the interior went together. A piece of 1/4 ply and a 2x4 were added to mount the drawer slides on Heres a picture of what could have been. I think this top's design is much better than what I ended up with. It fits the look of the rest of it better and the thickness is a better proportion than the final version too. Oh well. Live and learn. Final version
  8. 7 points
    OK, I think we can officially declare me totally nuts or at best a monomaniac with OCD. I've now gotten to 50,000 unique pics of woods on the wood ID site. About half these are ones I took and the rest lifted off of the Internet. This doesn't even count the 1000+ complex images and graphics I did for the glossary and the 4,000 pics I took for the anatomy pages or any of the ones done for the various articles on the site. http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/
  9. 7 points
    Time for some drawers! Edge banded BB ply for the most part
  10. 7 points
    Hey, I didn’t want it to get out on here, that Rick and me was buddies. LOL..... Rick’s a good guy and a good woodworker. I have been getting on here for a few months and looking around. I’ m not a woodworker, I like to cut the logs up into lumber. I like the quarter sawn lumber .
  11. 6 points
    I built this for a friend, in trade for some wood for my next project. The table is figured Cherry. I forgot to get a shot of the top, it's got an inch wide sap wood on both long edges and a ton of figure.
  12. 6 points
    I know I have a lot to learn and I am working to fill in the gaps of my Woodworking Knowledge and Education. I just finished a Bow Front Table Class in NH with Tom McLaughlin and I brought this home with me..... The table is made out of Cherry. Tom is a great teacher and a very nice guy! John
  13. 6 points
    All finished up ... learned quite a bit on this one. Pretty happy overall but still chugging along.
  14. 6 points
    By definition it does quite the opposite. The sentimental value of something is due to the emotional associations, Not the material worth. The dollar value has Nothing to do with sentiment. One of my favorite tools is an old Craftsman corrugated sole #5 I have modified as my go to "scrub plane" although it is not one. I remember using this thing 25 years ago in my grandfather's shop building a bird house. I'll lose a hand before I willingly hand that to someone because it isn't worth enough. I'm really surprised and disappointed at a lot of the responses here to just leave them because it's a decent amount of trouble. (Wanna guess how much trouble it is itemizing your material possessios in case of your death) Maybe I'm closer to my friends than most but if a friend thought of me in life and wanted me to have something important of theirs after their death, I would never even think of telling the family , No thanks, not worth it to me.
  15. 5 points
    Finishing up the drawer fronts and prototyping the shoe drawer..
  16. 5 points
    And in the customers home.
  17. 5 points
    Thank you!! Honduras Mahogany veneered in Walnut burl - Cutting a new line for the bevel and trying a test piece of Walnut burl - Arm bevel profile - Fitting the Zebrawood binding to the Walnut burl - David
  18. 5 points
    Built this while you were camping.....couldn’t resist! Good to see you back on the build
  19. 5 points
    Over the years I have tried many push blocks for the TS, jointer, router most have fallen short and until last week my favorite was the gripper from micro jig. At Marc Adams last week they had these shop made push blocks and they were simply awesome So I started asking questions and was advised they used rubber from a tile float. I was determined to make a couple of these, so yesterday I went to work. First I found some cheap floats at Menards $4.99 each Then I pealed the pad off slowly using a putty knife Next up I made a quick template from hardboard and cut some handle blanks from some scrap 1" thick white oak I had For the base I used BB ply and dadoed a slot for the handle Then I took a router with a cove bit and routed some finger groves in the handles. After using a trim router to break the edges I glued the handles to the bases Then I used contact cement to glue the rubber to the handle assembly And used my vise to clamp them together and for about the same price as one gripper and some misc supplies from around the shop I had replicated what is now my favorite push block. I made four, two for the table saw and two for the jointer/ router which in my shop are real close.
  20. 5 points
    About wide drawers & slides remember to check the installation instructions closely. Most slides will have a recommended maximum width for use of a particular slide. I wouldn't consider it cast in stone and often push the limits a little. But as you approach or exceed that width you need to pay closer attention to the drawer & case being perfectly parallel and installed very accurately. As soon as a drawer is wider than it is deep they don't behave well. Most slides come in heavy duty versions although they do cost more and might not be stocked locally. KV 8500 or KV 8505 slides are built for lateral filing cabinets. I know they make heavy duty concealed slides too but the brands and numbers seem to change every time I need some. Self closing slides are sensitive to imperfect installation. If the case is slightly out of square the slides need to be shimmed to be perfectly parallel. Exactly 90 degrees to the front face and both sides of the case and drawer members mounted very accurately. Lots of slides have a specific set back from the front edge. Get this wrong and the drawer will either close inconsistently or crookedly. Concealed slides need the mounting holes , locking devices and knotches to be in very exact locations. Cheaper slides are usually much harder to install & adjust. KV and Blum slides are well worth the prices they demand, but shop around, some sources charge retail and better trade prices aren't that hard to locate. Odd lengths may come with case quantity requirements to get a decent price. No dealer wants to have a partial box of an odd length sit on the shelf for years, if you only need a few they will cost more. Building a test/prototype drawer & case to practice installing slides you aren't familiar with is a good idea. I've learned that installing slides in an existing cabinet should always be priced by the hour. One may go quickly and the next take 5-10 times longer. I use plastic laminate (Formica) sample chips to shim slide installation . Ask for old out of date sample chains, dealers, decorators, architects and cabinet shops are good places to ask for them. They already have a hole in them and cut with tin snips easily. I learned most of this the hard way , just trying to save you a lot of frustration.
  21. 5 points
    Did you use 5000K bulbs? Were they CFL or LED? What was the lumen rating? Kidding, of course. That's a good trick.
  22. 5 points
    Here’s a few pics of a boxelder that came off a river bank.
  23. 5 points
    We are getting close. The drawers are done. There is still the base to be built, but the I feel that the hard yards are won. The following was completed this weekend ... One of the joys with hand tools is simply planing. Nothing special, just planing wood and creating wonderful shavings. This was the final dimensioning of the drawer sides prior to glue up ... More planing - this time the panels for the drawer bottoms. These are 6mm thick. With drawers this small and narrow (100mm wide and 100mm high), one probably could run a drawer bottom along the length. I decided to plan for expansion along the length, so the grain runs side-to-side. The panels are Tasmanian Oak ... The panels are ripped on the table saw, and one endt is shaped to the drawer front using the template for that row ... Here is a glued up drawer ready for the drawer bottom ... Extra long at this stage ... ... and trimmed to size (the extra "tongue" is to aid in removal, if needed) ... There is some expansion that can take place into the drawer front, as the groove there is deep enough (5mm at the front and 3mm at the sides). Some expansion can also take place to the rear. What I have done is drill an over size screw hole ... The screw needs to sit flush with the underside, as will become apparent in a while ... I am very happy with the drawers. They are tight and crisp, and all slide in-and-out their recess smoothly. I am also very pleased with an idea I came up with for the drawer stops. Drawer stops are very important in this chest as the drawers are inset by 3mm, and a stop at the front, behind the drawer front, will enable this gap to be maintained through the year. These stops are a little different. I searched the Internet to see if anything like these have been made, sold or used before. Nada, zip. I am amazed. The concept is so simple, and so easy to install. Please make and use them. I think that you will like the idea. Adjustable drawer stops ... I planed down some scrap Black Walnut. These strips ended up 20mm wide ... 40mm lengths were marked off, and the piece attached to my router-morticing jig ... Here's the complete set up. It was used to rout out 10mm long mortices ... Sawing away two strips, you are left with this. It was planed to a thickness of 3mm ... These were cut up and the fronts rounded. The reason for the round section is that it will butt up against the rear of the drawer front, which is curved ... These are screwed into the drawer recess. They can be fine-adjusted with the screw. All pretty obvious, really. The low profile allows the drawer to slide in without obstruction. With the drawers done, the knobs were attached. These are cast iron and small (just 22mm across). Yet they seen ginormous after looking at bare drawer fronts for so long. I was thinking of blacking the cast iron, but I now quite like the grey. I think that it adds to the modern feel of this chest. Your thoughts? The boards have been cut for the back board and the base. Next time. Regards from Perth Derek
  24. 4 points
    As requested by a number of people, I have clocked the screws at the rear of cabinet. Gad, some are so OCD! One coat of oil so far .. Regards from Perth Derek
  25. 4 points
    Completed all the handwork on the stand tonight. First up was the slope detail on the top of the legs after arranging the legs per my triangles I added an arrow to mark the slope direction Next I planed a 45 on all four edges down about 1/8." I used a square to measure so that I could get all four legs close to the same. I also chamferd the bottom of each leg in this same, way without the slope of course. Once that was complete I rounded them over with a hand plane Than took a little 220 on the sanding block to finish them off. ...and in a few minutes they were done Next I used a sanding block to chamfer the ends of all the tenons since they will all sit proud and look like this Then I made a quick story stick for the legs. They get a taper on each inside face and a slight cove detail on each outside face You probably can't tell from this picture but the left leg is still square and the right has been planed as stated above. The cove/tapers give the leg a bit of a curved look to the outside. At least in person at they do LOL Then I dry assembled the base I'm really proud of my joinery on this piece so here's a couple more shots Tomorrow the base will be fumed and the ready for shellac and glue up before moving back to the finishing touches on the case.