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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/25/2018 in all areas

  1. 13 points
    Thougt I would share this veneer project. The hanging is 26" diameter made with Robbon sapele and Tamo Ash veneer. Assmebling peices. Blue tap used to pull pieces together and hold unitl veneer tape can be put on the show side of the piece. After Veneer taping and gluing in vacuum bag. Notice that glue was suckked thru the sapele. Scraped of easily - no big deal. Unfinished pics. Finishes pics - 7 coats on minwax clear gloss poly.
  2. 9 points
    Only thing left is prepping for the upholstery and final finish coats once it comes back from them. And making the pins. I apologize for not doing a better job of journaling. I find myself taking plenty of photos but not doing anything with them. I'll try to put together a retro journal of this build. I started this back in October, but got waylaid by the wife's health issues and the CNC class in the spring. Mesquite, turquoise, ebony plugs with Osmo PolyX Hard Wax Oil Finish.
  3. 9 points
    My wife is on the board of a local charity and I was asked if I would make something for the silent auction at their annual gala. This is what I came up with. Walnut and brass serving set. Figured walnut serving tray with brass pins. Walnut cheese board with brass inlay. Set of four walnut and brass inlay coasters. The serving tray below is version 3. The first one looked nice but the sides were a little thin and I wasn't confident in its strength. Also, the compound angle joints were less than perfect. For version 2, I beefed up the sides and the joinery was really tight, but the sides were a bit too beefy and I wasn't happy with the shape. For version 3, I landed on a happy medium between versions 1 and 2 for the side thickness and I made a little curve along the long sides, which I think gives it a better shape. The finish for the serving tray and cheese board is Odie's oil. I wanted something a little more protective for the costers, since they likely will be getting wet, so for them I went with Salad Bowl Finish.
  4. 8 points
    Hello! It's been a while. My shop has been on mothballs for a couple of years. I'm finally starting to get setup again. Just gonna center it around hand tools and a couple machines. This is not really a full journal, but I didn't see where else to put it. Let me know if it should be moved to a different category. To get going again I made a G&G influenced TV table, thingy. It holds the coffee cup, a book, sometimes a computer and the occasional plate of food. It's made from reclaimed mahogany (i think). All hand tools, except a few cuts on the bandsaw. I like how it turned out.
  5. 8 points
    This has been in the works since February, but finally got it over the finish line today. Ton of shop time between February and today, but most of it was on commissions. Pretty happy with the continual grain on the drawer fronts along with the tight fit. The swing open doors could be better done. Mostly just imperfect hinge installation. You really need to be dead on to keep the door perfectly square once it’s installed. I was off probably 1/16” over the width of the door. Interior case and drawer sides are mahogany, ebony drawer pulls, and the rest is walnut. The drawer fronts and door panels were resawn out of the same 12-16/4 walnut crotch.
  6. 8 points
    Time to make buttons. It would have been so much easier to make them from the edge of the board, but it would have created a cross grain. And not the strongest of the two. And if these are buttons, these must be button holes? These were cut just a tad below the top of the apron, giving me a snug fit , aporon to top.
  7. 7 points
    The bench out of Cherry was picked up yesterday afternoon and he was going to put it at the foot of his bed. When he brought it into the house, his wife changed his mind about where he was going to put it. It now sits in their living room and here is it's final resting place. She said she wanted her friends to see it.
  8. 6 points
    The walls need to be taller. You could throw thicker material at it but you'll get more strength faster by making the walls taller. You can see how the sides are around 3" if yours are around that try going to 4 or even 5 inches. You might need to remake the sled wider to make the whole router handles and all fit inside. To guide the base if you need it to be wider use some scraps glued to the bottom. Think of this like an I beam the taller the web is the stronger the beam. You don't need the web or the flanges to be very thick as long as the web is tall. Or like how a 2x10 can span longer than a 2x6. the height is where the strength is not the thickness.
  9. 6 points
    I can't believe it's been 7 weeks since my last full day in the shop and since I posted to this build, that's ridiculous! First up was to route the stopped grove for the drawer bottoms at the router table Next up I cut the bottoms out of 1/8" BB plywood Then glued them up Then with a light touch I flushed them up on the belt sander Finally I fit the runners and glued them in Next up I will final fit them to the case and start work on the drawer fronts.
  10. 5 points
    The wife and I were rearranging, tossing out, and giving away things in one section of the basement. I ran across a service tray that I made in junior high. It is a piece of laminate and a frame of unknown wood. We cut the parts, tun the side through the table saw for the kerf to accept the laminate. Cup holders were done with a hole saw. Some sanding and an unknown finish. Nothing spectacular but wanted to share a bit of the past. Light not the best, as you see. It's a shame that so many schools are dropping their craft classes. My uncle helped in a WWing class in high school. Dad always said the should have been a cabinet maker or furniture maker.
  11. 5 points
    I've been reorganizing my shop needed to cut some round tennons (store bought dowels didn't fit tight in standard holes) so I decided to turn then on my lathe using the old open end wrench for a gauge trick, time consuming required two hands pain in the butt I needed a more efficient way as I had a lot to do. Here is the trick I went to my junk drawer found an old wrench cleaned it up a bit, ground one leg of the open end wrench to a sharp edge more of a scraping angle than a cutting angle I cut the tennon on my lathe about a 1/8" short of the tennon thickness than used the wrench as a turning scraper and was able to make perfect tennons rapidly able to use both hands on the wrench I was done in no time I'm going to find some more old wrenches and, make a set of these for standard hole sizes.
  12. 5 points
    One trumpet... ...Two trumpets... ...I love to count the trumpets. Ha Ha Ha
  13. 5 points
    Nabbed a piece of particle board. Painted it white and drew some pretty lines thereupon. Started chopping, drilling, and turning. Yay, Monday.
  14. 5 points
    Time to get going on the headboard.. Apologies for the audio.. My mic was going out and I didn't realize it until I was editing. New mic is on order.
  15. 5 points
    JMO but $200 is not a good price for any table saw, even used. You get what you pay for, and an unsafe one at that.
  16. 5 points
    Trap league was canceled due to weather so I got a couple hours in the shop... Glued up the case... Then I fit the drawer runners/drawers to the case finally I trimmed the drawer fronts for glue up I'll glue them to the drawers tomorrow then I need to cut the pulls out. Then I need to make the curved side doors and this one will be ready for finish.
  17. 5 points
    I spent my free 20 minutes this morning running a proof of concept for my pivot pins. I have no lathe and using plain dowel stock was a last resort. So, I bought some 1" walnut dowel rod and some 5/8" dowel rod. I drilled a 1" hole in a scrap of 8/4 stock to brace the 1" dowel so I could drill through the center. I drilled a 5/8" hole through the center of the dowel. I cut the 1" dowel with the hole to size, as well as the 5/8" dowel, and voila. Super simple and adds a little something above straight dowel stock. I'll chamfer or roundover the handle end, sand it up to 220 and call it done.
  18. 5 points
    Completed the leg mortises and tenons on the top of the legs, getting hot in the shop so calling it quits for now!
  19. 5 points
    There is plenty of "quiet cunning" involved before any machine is ever turned on. If you have to tell someone that some part of the process is all hand done, it doesn't matter to anyone, beyond the maker, whether it is or not. I tell people, all the time, that I can do anything that I do, on an old house, the way it was done originally, with the same hand tools, or I can do it for about 1/5 of that cost only doing the part that you see by hand, and saving time and money with modern tools. So far, I have not had the first client willing to pay 5 times the price to have the whole process done by hand.
  20. 5 points
    This weekend I spent time preparing to build the drawers for the apothecary chest. There are 24 drawers, which makes 48 drawer sides, plus 24 drawer fronts and 24 drawer backs. And then there are 24 drawer bottoms. And slips for the drawers. All this before building the drawers can begin. I wonder how long this would take if I did it all with hand tools? I've been reading the posts by Chris Schwarz about the forthcoming publication of John Brown's “Welsh Stick Chairs”. This was a seminal book in the same manner as James Krenov's "A Cabinetmaker's Notebook". I've not read John Brown's book, and I am looking forward to doing so. I have read Jim Krenov many times. It seems to me that they are similar in the way that they value the craft that is woodworking, and the importance of hand tools. However, they differ in the way they view machines. Krenov used his to prepare the way for hand tools. Brown would have nothing to do with them. It seemed he feared that craft would be lost if machines were used ... "The hand too maker needs the best bench he can make – or afford! You must know your tools, what they are made of, fine adjustments and sharpening angles. Everything must be clean and sharp. Tools talk to the craftsman, and will let you know when they are right. What the machine does by noisy, brute force, you will be able to do with quiet cunning" "I would not go so far as to say that there are no skills necessary to working machines. It is important to be able to read and interpret complicated instructions. What you end up with is engineering skills – precision engineering in wood". Link: http://tonykonovaloff.com/?page_id=54 What has this to do with the work I did this weekend? Well, I could relate to the role of engineer. Preparing the wood for the drawers with my machines was the work of a machinist. Would I have rather spent the time doing this by hand? Well, I have done this in the past - I worked almost exclusively with handtools and a few hand power tools for over 25 years before purchasing a tablesaw, jointer, thicknesser/planer, and bandsaw. I began upgrading these over the past 7 years. I would not go back. Machines do not replace handwork. The question is whether this compromises the work I do? The drawers have Tasmanian Oak sides and back. The drawer front will be Black Walnut to match the carcase. The oak has become harder to come by in Perth. I prize it because it is all quarter sawn, which is ideal for drawer sides as it is stable. It is light in colour and a good contrast to dark timbers. But I have so little now. Much of it is narrow boards - I grabbed everything that my local Bunnings store had a few years ago when I heard they were no longer going to sell it. These boards would be resawn and book-matched to become the drawer sides ... Where my jointer-thicknesser/planer excels is that I can cut the boards to short lengths, and still process them. Shorter boards will not lose much waste when flattening ... This was at the end of Saturday. Drawer sides taken to 1/4" and stickered. I have had good fortune with this method in the past. The wood is stable and cleaned up with a cabinet scraper. If there is any slight movement, it will be taken out when dovetailed. The black walnut is rough sawn. This board is 1" thick and will make all the drawer fronts. The tablesaw is new. The slider is magic to rip as well as crosscut. Here is a Frans and Fritz jig used to quickly rip the short lengths into two sections (= two rows of drawer fronts) ... This is just raw material. It does not replace the handwork in building the drawers. I have begun fitting the drawer sides to the drawer blades ... There is so much more still to do ... and I have not even made the drawer bottoms or slips. Regards from Perth Derek
  21. 5 points
    Bunkbed update. Thanks for the help everyone. This sucker is rock solid. Main beam connections are joined using basically big Loose tenons. Mitered boxes are reinforced with 6mm dominos and were made from decent quality orange box store poplar ply. The larger partitions are framed inside with 2x lumber. Railing/stairs made from some CVG Doug Fir. Stairs are def not comfy to use, as noted above,,,but my wife liked the look of these stairs better and was worried about my daughter stair climbing comfort Finally, painted with Target Coatings EM6500 White. HVLPd. Its not really fine WW but I couldn't help but treat it that way.
  22. 5 points
    The top was a full 6/4 maybe just a tad more. I had to plane an 1/8th off the cathedral area in the center of the board, It had to be done by hand plane, a thickness planner would have pressed the board so that the whole board would have been planed, instead of just the higher area. The feet and shoulders were a full 7/4. I know, an odd size, but that's what felt right. The stretcher was a full 5/4+, that way I could get a full 1" for the through tenon. And the upright part of the legs was a full 5/4. The bench was 42" wide, 14" deep and 18" tall I hope that helps.
  23. 4 points
    Hello, everyone! It's been a good long while since I posted. Being a full-time teacher and first-time dad will do that to you. From January to March I worked on a white oak entertainment center, which can be seen in the images below. It was a pretty straightforward project with relatively few firsts for me. One fun first was that I got to do solid wood raised panels. I actually had to go to a friend's shop because my router wasn't big enough for the panel raising bit. Another thing I tried to do, but ultimately decided against, was a solid-wood adjustable shelf system. It's the image below of the zigzag-cut square dowels with a square dowel between them - you'll know it when you see it. The idea is that you can have adjustable shelves without metal, which is always appealing to me. Unfortunately, since this was for a client, I had to abandon the idea. Still though, very cool! I picked up the idea in an antique shop that had an extremely old french cabinet that used the system.Also, there's a picture of my son in a cabinet because he is adorable and I just can't get enough of my little apprentice. imgur.com/gallery/yRfZIu1 <blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/yRfZIu1"><a href="//imgur.com/yRfZIu1">White Oak Entertainment Center</a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
  24. 4 points
    I must assume that the ability to do that must come from having a much better brain than mine.
  25. 4 points
    Part eight - I think that this is the 7th weekend of the build. The plan is to start building the drawers, or at least have a plan for the drawers. There is not as much time available this weekend as I would have liked. First, I needed to complete the drawer sides. About one half of the sides prepared were glued from two sections. The joins needed to be smoothed to leave each side appearing seamless. I started out using a scraper .. .. and ended using a smoother, which was quicker. The smoother was set to take extremely fine shavings - which came off like fine hair - as I did not want to remove any more of the 1/4" thickness than absolutely necessary (the boards began a smidgeon over 1/4", and so ended up close to dammit) .. The sides were jointed square on two sides ... ... and then fitted to the cabinet ... It took most of Saturday, but finally ... Sunday afternoon arrived and I was back in the workshop. The goal here was to see if my devilish plan for dovetailing curved drawer fronts would work. The following is a test, so let me know what you think and whether you can come up with an easier strategy. Each row of drawers with be made from a single black walnut board, and so the figure will flow without interruption. Actually, the boards used made two rows each, and all the drawer fronts will come from the same original board. For now I am using a scrap to test the method. Briefly, the drawer front will remain flat until the sides are dovetailed on, and the curve will be added later. The first task is to fit the drawer front into the drawer opening, and this requires that the sides are mitred. This was done on the table saw ... This is the fit into the drawer opening ... The curve can be added by sliding out the drawer front and tracing along the drawer blade ... That will be shaped later. For now the challenge is two-fold: firstly, the mitres complicate how the dovetails will join the two parts. In the photo below, what will happen if the walnut receives sockets (as in half-blind dovetails), the tails will extend over the drawer front and into the drawer. The solution I came up with was to mitre one side of the drawer front, and rebate the other side ... I concentrated on the mitred side today as this is the more difficult of the two. The first step was to mark the width of the drawer side ... The second was to use edge planes (these are by LN) to add a mitre that was square with the angled side ... The second challenge would be to secure and transfer the tails to the pin board, then to saw and chisel the sockets. Here is the first challenge ... Trying to hold the tail board at an angle, and steady so that it did not move while the tails could be traced to the pin board ... well, I needed another set of hands! I finally came up with a solution, recalling Alan Peters/Rob Cosman's rabbet trick. In this case, I added two layers of blue tape to create a fence ... This made it possible to stabilise the parts ... Using blue tape to transfer the markings ... Sawn ... Kerfs deepened at the baseline end with a kerfing chisel ... Clearly my chisels were not sharp enough as the walnut was crumbling ... It cleaned up enough to pound the drawer side on .. What was reassuring was the tight corners. The "drawer" was slid into the drawer opening ... A bit more practicing, and I will be ready for the real thing. Any thoughts how else this could be done? Regards from Perth Derek