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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/16/19 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    Well this is moving along. Was supposed to fish this weekend but the weather was not favorable so I went to the workshop instead. Covering a lot of ground in this post and I do think there are a few important tricks I've learned that I share with you in this post. As an over view I cover sizing and fitting the headrest, shaping and blending headrest into chair, horns, sanding , and final spindle shaping. So lets get started with fitting the headrest. When you watch Marc do this it is very cumbersome and awkward. Once you try it yourself you realize it take 3 or 4 hands to do easily. Now don't get me wrong, Marc's technique works, but I'm going to show a way easier way. First you need your stock. It's 7" wide and approx 22" long. It should be 10/4 thick but my favorite sawyer @Spanky could only get me 9/4. After milling we are sitting slight more than 8/4, and you can see I was not over aggressive with the milling, leaving some spots unmilled because I know I'm going to cut those areas away or sculpt them out; Now to fit the headrest lay your chair on your work bench, putting a 2" wide board under the back legs like such; You then can lay your headrest under the top of the chair so you can record your reference lines and angle of your cuts to fit the headrest; This technique differs from Marc's as he does this with the chair in the upright position and holding the headrest which is very awkward. So from there I go to the chop saw and make my cuts. As with most chairs, my angles were not identical for each side, they varied slightly so don't assume they are the same. So looking good; Now that we have the headrest sized to fit, we can start cutting our curves and sculpting the shape. The first thing to do is cut out the curve of the headrest. Here, since I'm a little thin my pattern overhangs the back a little; It's not short by much but I need to look at my options. First I could glue a piece to the back to beef up the area we are short, but I don't like the idea of it not matching. I could strike the front line and cut that piece off and then glue that piece to the back, this works and I've done it on 2 other rockers, but you can still tell the piece was added. It's not a big deal because It is in the back of the rocker and after sculpting it really turns out to be a small addition, but still I'm not keen on that. So i'm trying a different idea. I'm going to lessen the curve, and I don't think it will have much if any effect on the final outcome. You end up doing so much shaping to this piece. So I struck a few lines and the arrows show you how much I'm off; So I changed the curve; In the end I maintained uniform thickness by adding to the front and the back in proper proportions, it took a few tries but I figured it out; Now I can cut my bottom profile. I like this shape; Next are the spindle holes and THEN the top profile; Now to attach the headrest to the chair with screws. Clamped it up on the bench, stood it on the ground after clamping. Then I drew my guide lines for the screws; Once you are done with that you disassemble and shape the headrest off the chair. Shaping is covered very well by Marc, and it starts with an endgrain template; Not much to show with the shaping, but I will tell you all was completed with just the RAS, rasps and sanders with interface pads of course. Here is the headrest screwed back onto the chair after shaping; So you can see that the back legs don't come close to blending in with the headrest and that's our next job. But first I need to shape the outline for the horns; And a few minutes later using only the RAS; For sculpting I start with the front of the chair and using the RAS, rasps and sander (with interface pad) I get a nice flow to things; Now to the back side. Before shaping; When sculpting the backside, this is one area that I still use the die grinder. In fact it's the first time in this whole project I've used it and I'll use it for the horns. I may use it on the rocker/leg joint, but here and with the horns cutting the coves it is necessary. Also used the RAS, rasps and sander (yes, with the interface pad); Now the above is not finished as nice as the front, that's because I have to add the horns to this part of the shaping; Shaping the horns is tough. I use the die grinder, the rasps, the curved scraper and sandpaper wrapped around a large dowel. This area takes a lot of work and time. And here we are, you can also see I refined the cove all the way down the back leg/headrest joint; All that above is a lot of work, and I'm glad it all went so well. I thought this is a good time to sand everything to 400. I want to do this before I finish the spindles because once they are glued in you have much harder access to certain parts of the chair. I'll sand the spindles separate and I'll need to sand the whole headrest area again after that glue up, but now I'm going to go over the rest of the chair. I start with the small sander (with interface pad) and 180 grit. Then I hand sand 220, 320 then 400. I then burnish with a white 3M pad. This helps ALOT. The pad cleans the surface and small scratches magically become visible. I could not see the scratches below until I went over them with the pad; Those scratches may not seem like a big deal, but they will stand out with finish on the chair. So on to the spindles, with the backrest still screwed on I put the spindles in their bottom holes and can now cut them to length. Then it's on to shaping the tops; The above is done with all rasps and the Veritas tenon cutter. Since I can't try the spindles into the headrest holes while it's screwed to the chair, I take a block and fit them to a 3/8ths hole in the block; So this wraps up this post. Wanted to mention one thing and I don't mean to sound redundant. I rely very heavily on my small sander and the interface pads. I can't stress enough how important I think these are. First my Rotex 90 is small enough to get into tight places and light enough to use with one hand. This makes a BIG difference. Also with this chair, you really have NO FLAT areas. NONE. The interface pad is too soft to make a flat area. So using it it aids in giving you the subtle round overs and the Maloof look. Don't doubt me on this, it helps a ton and it helps speed things along. Talking of that, here is my time; Headrest- 6.5 hrs Sanding chair- 4 hrs Spindle shaping (top half)- 2 hrs Total time spent; 47.5 hrs Thanks for looking.
  2. 5 points
    I used to wrap my brush and roller in several layers of plastic wrap and then place them in the freezer over night for use the next day. Frankly, now I pay a guy to clean the paint brushes... Well actually I pay him to put the paint on the brushes, then put the paint on the walls, and then clean the brushes. After that he puts everything in his truck and takes it to his house.
  3. 4 points
    I've got the internal partitions installed, and the drawer slides are in. There's not a lot of extra clearance around the motor, but it fits in there just fine. The existing tools I have for the lathe fit in the smaller top drawer along with the accessories, leaving the bottom drawer for future purchases. I haven't decided if I'll put in the top drawer to the right of the motor or not. It might work just as well to have a door on it. I'm still not sure what's the best idea for the grinder. I came up with a way to have it swing up to working height, but it requires its weight to be suspended upside down on a hinge when not in use. For now I might just defer doing anything beyond the open cubby. Now I just need to figure out how to do a 3" high angled rip cut to make the drawer fronts. This is when I really wish I had a band saw. Right now I'm thinking I'll go as high as I can with the table saw and then finish with a hand saw and plane.
  4. 3 points
    I personally thought essential craftsman did a good video on chainsaws. I was always told that chainsaws were dangerous killing machines. Knowing how kickbacks happen and why has taught me while the are very dangers are not as dangerous as I was lead to believe. I don't think it was helpful to be told how dangerous they were constantly with no instruction, it just made me afraid of them which isn't helpful
  5. 3 points
    Safest way to use a chainsaw is don't. I grew up cutting firewood with Dad, and later worked a brief stint with an arborist. Dad and I both have scars above the left knee to prove it, and are fortunate to be walking. Quick tips from my experience: 1. Like all cutting tools, learn to sharpen it first. 2. Study the owner's manual to understand proper maintenance procedures. The manual also describes the correct way to hold the saw for starting with the pull rope. 3. Use the correct PPE. Kevlar chaps, hearing protection, safety glasses AND face shield, hard hat, steel toe boots. More injuries happen from stuff falling than from saw cuts. 4. Prepare for kickback. If the tip of the bar catches wood, it will try to kick the saw upward. A strong grip and stiff arms can save you, but don't count on it. Keep your body, and other folks, out of the possible kickback path. 5. Be prepared to sacrifice the saw. If things go sideways while felling a tree, drop the tool and run. The only way you can be certain the tree will fall is DOWN. Even that is doubtful in a close forest. Use pull ropes to guide the fall whenever possible. 6. Understand that the felled tree WILL be under tension. Use appropriate measures to ensure you aren't smacked by branches springing back or the log rolling over as you trim it. Good luck.
  6. 3 points
    Well, I went ahead and took a chance on them. I’m sick right now so it’ll be a few days before I can really try them out. Initial inspection found that the tool posts are covered in that nasty goo. Hopefully I’ll be able to wash all that off my hand by the time I get out to the shop to clean them off.
  7. 2 points
    That's good to know, hadn't thought about carvers, but don't mimic everything you see someone else doing.
  8. 2 points
    As hobbyists, aren't we doing this for our own gratification, anyway?
  9. 2 points
    Good tips above. Chainsaws are not tools you want to just pick up and figure out as you go, so good for you for doing the research first. Stihl put out a series of videos regarding safety and use. I haven’t watched these specific videos but have seen other training clips they have produced in the past and they were decent. I used to work for a Stihl dealer and did their mechanic training courses, part of which was on saw safety and operations to teach new buyers. https://m.stihlusa.com/information/videos/chainsaw-safety-operations-maintenance-videos/
  10. 2 points
    No experience with Cutech, but the basic design appears very similar to the Delta bench top jointer I own. Frankly, its not that useful for anything over 3 ft long, the beds are just too short. If that works for you, then it seems like a good deal, and the spiral cutter heads should last longer and be quieter that straight knives. Just ...
  11. 2 points
    This is a better picture taken by the clients new iPhone . The camera is much improved. Here are the pulls provided by the client. I will try to get some pics when delivered and in place. In my eye, the stain makes it look like a non stained piece 20 years old. But my guess is the 20year non stained piece will look better. The continuing grain on the drawer faces is almost a non event due to staining. The keys are the same for each drawer.
  12. 2 points
    Client dropped by and helped me stack the unit. They gave me an order for a matching desk! They must have liked it. The ladies present gave lots of oos and ahhhs. Orders are the equivalent of oxygen for me.
  13. 1 point
    4 file drawers and 2 small on top. Yet to come an 8/4 walnut top.. Then open shelves above...And another 8/4 top above the shelves... Panels are mill run fas walnut book matched. First project with my new Jessem. Very user friendly.And powerful with a 3.25hp porter cable.
  14. 1 point
    I thought that the build might begin with preparing the panels, since there has been some interest in the past shown in the shorter Hammer K3 sliders. Mine has a 49" long slider and a 31" wide table for the rip fence. The build is an entry hall table for a wedding present for a niece. Her choice was this mid century modern piece, which will be the basis for the build. My job is to re-invent it somewhat. She wants Jarrah, and I have managed to find something spectacular ... a subtle fiddleback (curly) set of boards that will make a book match (as they are only about 9" wide each). Most imagine that the value of a slider lies with cross-cutting. It certainly is so. However it is the rip using the slider - rather than the rip fence - which is so amazing. One side of each board was to be ripped on the slider, before being jointed and resawn. Ripping on the slider is such an advantage with life edges. No jigs required. No rip fence to slide against. Just clamp the board on the slider, and run it past the saw blade. The long sliders can complete the rip in one quick pass. It occurred to me that I should take a few photos of ripping to width since the boards are longer than the slider. Here you can see that it comes up short ... In actuality, with the blade raised fully, there is a cut of nearly 54" ... The solution is to use a combination square to register the position of the side of the board at the front, and then slide the board forward and reposition it ... ... and repeat at the rear ... The result is a pretty good edge, one that is cleaned up on the jointer in 1 or 2 passes, and then ready for resawing ... This is the glued panel. It is long enough to make a waterfall two sides and top section (still oversize) ... The following photo shows the lower section at the rear. What I wanted to show is the way boards are stored. Since I shall not get back to this build until next weekend, all boards are stickered and clamped using steel square sections. The steel sections are inexpensive galvanised mild steel. These are covered in vinyl duct tape to prevent any marks on the wood and ease in removing glue ... Done for the day ... Enough for the case (top/bottom and sides), which will be through dovetailed with mitred corners, the stock for 4 legs (yet to be turned), and rails for the legs (the legs will be staked mortice-and-tenon) and attached with a sliding dovetail. Regards from Perth Derek
  15. 1 point
    Starting a thread for those that might be interested in a supermax sander. I figured if someone wanted to post a future sale here as well it might help those that are looking. I was talking to Woodcraft and the salesman dropped a very strong hint that the Supermax 16-32 will be on sale starting Feb 1st 2018 for $999
  16. 1 point
    I'd pull the pin.. You'd have to do that to change the blade anyway and I'm guessing they're going to have you do that in the trouble shooting process. Probably better to know before the call.
  17. 1 point
    What wtnhighlander said. Also be aware that if you're turning much more than one knob you are going to be sharpening frequently--going back and forth to the grinder and the lathe. The grinder will be in your way for lathe work (you need right arm elbow room even for small projects), so the grinder is going to have to go up and down frequently. Grinding tools creates a great deal of dust which is a mix of high speed steel and aluminum oxide. Of course you don't want this grit around the lathe or your work. The shield you are envisioning will help, but only some. You will not be able to use any of the sharpening jigs (Tormek, Wolverine-Varigrind) with your set up. But lots of people (not me) free hand grind. Why not go with the simpler set up first (lift out grinder). Then after you see how you're using the grinder and the mess, etc., you can decide if the phase 2 construction is worth it.
  18. 1 point
    I expect that if I went ahead, I'd have latches of some kind to secure it to the stand in the stored position. Ideally I'd also have an eye hook to transfer the weight to under the bed, but that won't be reachable because the stand is closed in for dust reasons. I can add some more weight to the bottom if it's unsteady at all, although with the splayed legs it seems pretty solid.
  19. 1 point
    Approriately sized hinges should work fine. I would include a means to lock the grinder in its stored position, and maybe add some counter weight to the rear of the stand to ensure the center of gravity is under the bed, not offset. An accidental split of spinning material could tip the machine forward as it becomes unbalanced, with the grinder's weight somewhat high in the stand and slightly forward, as shown.
  20. 1 point
    To reduce the cost I opted for a non sliding CMS. It won't cut wide stock, but that isn't as much of a drawback as might be imagined.
  21. 1 point
    Looks good! Continuous grain is a big thing to woodworkers, but most non-woodworkers don’t really care. You can point it out to them and they will feign interest (“oh, neat.”), but will then revert their attention to whatever they were looking at before. You’ll find one here or there that do appreciate it, but they probably won’t want the piece stained either.
  22. 1 point
    I have no desire to turn my hobby into a business....
  23. 1 point
    If you are going to create an LLC and claim business expenses for your hobby, you need to be sure you’ll turn a profit within a few years. (It will need to become a job and not just a hobby) Claiming losses over several years is a surefire way to get yourself audited. Even if you win you’ll be spending dozens, if not hundreds, of hours providing documents and info to the IRS (they’ll even make you provide your past tax returns, even though they already have them) Or you can shell out thousands of dollars for a tax lawyer in hopes of reducing that time. It sounds nice to be able to deduct hobby expenses, but just know what you’re signing up for before you do it.
  24. 1 point
    Of course, now that you've seen all the mixer lift designs it's time to engineer and build your own grinder lift ! Looking at your photo, consider building an open top drawer or pull out shelf for the grinder, then placing the grinder on 3/4" board/tray with stout handles. This way you pull out the grinder to clear the bench and it's easier to lift and carry it to another location. If you don't have a handy "another location" I have and can recommend both/either the Kreg and Portamate folding workbenches. I just don't think knealing down and using the grinder is going to work for you very well, even if you were to raise it up a foot from its current position.
  25. 1 point
    Thanks Kev. Someone had suggested it before so I looked into it a bit. The space I have under the lathe (about 13 1/2" high and 12" deep) is too small for any of the mixer lifts I looked up. Most of them seem to want a depth of 18", which makes sense since that matches up with the mixers. I think I looked at 3 different ones and they were all similar specs.
  26. 1 point
    Looking sharp! Look into "Kitchen Aid" lift for the grinder. They're used to store Kitchen Aid mixers in a kitchen cabinet. I used one in my OF table for my spindle sander and it works great to get the sander up to a working height. I can hunt a link if you need it... I bought mine at Lowes.
  27. 1 point
    I've made my own shims out of various thicknesses of plastic from lids or other packaging. You can check the thickness with your calipers and be close enough. The plastic is soft enough that if they do get into the arbor threads, they won't do any harm or have any effect on your cut.
  28. 1 point
    Don't mean to Threadjack. When I align my saws my first step is to make the room for my hand as large as is workable. That is, I have the top as far to the right as I can (on a left tilt saw) and then align. I also find that reaching for the nut with my left hand (on a left tilt saw) is easier than using my right although I am right handed. We now return you to your regularly scheduled program.
  29. 1 point
    Bosch Daredevil. They're very aggressive, the tip is a screw that pulls the bit in. No way I can use a regular drill with them as they pull in hard until they stall and then you break your wrist, but since they have a hex shank they work great in the impact driver.
  30. 1 point
    Brass, always by hand. And that follows pre-tapping with a steel screw. Unlike most of life's lessons, I only had to learn that one once.
  31. 1 point
    At this point I've got all the joints to the seat and arm sculpted. Still have refining and sanding, but I'm close in these areas. Rockers are glued up and transition blocks glued on. Waiting here to finish the headrest so I can balance the rockers and start to fit the legs to the rockers. So I'm left with the headrest and the spindles, started refining the spindles now and headrest is on deck. So to tackle the spindles, which have already been cut out to rough shape, I start by shaping the bottom half of the spindles. The front side of the spindles have a slight crown on the surface and the back of the spindles have a heavy round over. With the mid line marked and the line on the side of the spindle guide me for my first surface, the light crowning of the front side; I handle this just with cabinet rasps; The back side before starting heavy round over; Roughed out with the RAS; Both sides of center line roughed out with RAS; Then rasps to clean up and even out the round over; Next is the round tenon at the bottom of the spindle, need this to be 1/2"; A Veritas tenon cutter makes quick work of this; Now on to the the small sander with interface pad. Front of spindle presanding; The unevenness is quickly smoothed with 120 grit; Now the backside presanding; Again, sander with interface pad makes for a nice rounded surface; The spindles need to look uniform and the spindle shoulder height needs to be uniform. Here is a line using the two outside spindles and a mark up on the outer edge of each spindle from the seat at 3 1/4 "; I level the spindle shoulders to that line. This is all rasp work; I am only half way done with the spindles. Headrest is next before I can tackle the top half of the spindles. Oh this took awhile, 4 1/2 hrs to put my total time at 35 hrs. Thanks for looking.
  32. 1 point
    You definitely did a nice job and built a good looking piece. This was my thought. But the customer is always right.
  33. 1 point
    Wow, there's no accounting for taste. But does walnut not lighten with age? I've seen antique walnut furniture that is darn near blonde.
  34. 1 point
    I think you should look hard at the Grizzly 1023. 3 hp, very good fence and will be a lifetime saw. I've had mine for over 3 years, and find it will cut through anything you can bring to it, with the right blades.
  35. 1 point
    Fair question.. I also know you have a little wiggle room. If you have 220 power, I would have to seriously consider the Grizzly 1023. 3HP saw, good fence, and no need for upgrades. From there, I would go with the Grizz that you're looking at and lastly, the Rigid.
  36. 1 point
    Hi everyone! I’m an older member who doesn’t post often, but here’s my latest finished piece:
  37. 1 point
    I think I can save it. I’m gonna make some moulding and lay it across the HOLE in the top of the board. Not part of the plan, but the plan is out the window in this are anyway. I just don’t want to replace the board when it’s a waterfall grain effect I was going for. But yeah, it’s still sitting there. I don’t throw things in the shop, but I “dropped” my hearing protection and safety glasses on the bench, went in, fires up the PS4 and killed some monsters Oh and later I had a drink. So there.
  38. 1 point
    Finally home from a long work road trip! Had some catching up to do! A few projects to get done that have been piling up! Only the bathroom vanity was done for YouTube.. 1. Table Lazy Susan and a cutting board for 2 different clients.. 2. A thread storage cabinet for my wife's quilting room 3. Bathroom Vanity for a client. 4. And, a floating picture frame for a family member..
  39. 1 point
    I enjoyed the work. I wish I could have convinced the client not to stain. I would have liked it more.
  40. 1 point
    Honestly there are FAR too many variables to say Xhp will work. With a well setup efficient system a 1.5hp DC could be enough for a 1 man shop. 2hp would make things a lot easier. 3hp is enough to run 2 4" machines at once. 5hp is big enough to run 2 6" machines at once. 4" and 6" are the dust port size. If you minimize flex hose and move from tool to tool I don't doubt that collector would capture as much dust as a 4" port could collect.The 570 CFM is with 2" WC pressure drop on the hose so that assumes probably 10 feet of flex.Less flex hose is less pressure which is more suction. I have a 3hp gorilla pro their hepa filters are good and efficient.
  41. 1 point
    That's what I said, but my wife's not buying it.
  42. 1 point
    I have a punch list to work on now. Then the finish work...
  43. 1 point
    I use old paint thinner by using it for the initial wash, then a wash with fresh thinner, then I work in a big blob of dish soap, rinsing well. It actually seems to get the last finish residue better than just using paint thinner alone. I collect the spent mineral spirits in an old thinner container. When it gets full, I take it to a recycling facility.
  44. 1 point
    Mineral spirits and a comb works. For paint & finish waste, I mix it with wood shavings and let it dry, then bag it for the trash. Our local landfill will accept most any type of finish as long as it has cured.
  45. 1 point
    With the face on and the 2 adjustable shelves. Other than finishing and a few details, I am starting on the 2 tops. Some very nice 8/4.
  46. 1 point
    I'm going to avoid the cnc topic as that's something that's been talked about many times. As far as 3d printers go, up until very recently I was in the camp that had absolutely no interest. I couldn't see any need for it and figured they were too slow to bother with. I like to do power carving and like the Arbortech Turboplane. Anyone who has used one of these things knows they make an awful mess if you use them indoors. Arbortech is supposed to be coming out with dust collection for it, but they've opted to make their own grinder and the dust collection attachment only fits that grinder and you have to buy the whole kit. It's not going to be available in the US until sometime next year, which means at least part of the winter with weather that prevents doing anything outside. There's no official US pricing, but based on what I've seen in other countries it's going to be $250. I already have a nice Metabo grinder to use with it that I really like. So I did the math and decided that a $180 3d printer would pay for itself just by making a dust collection attachment for the grinder I already have. Plus I get a new tool in bargain. So for the past week I've been playing around with designing this attachment starting from getting a ring to fit the keyed slots in the mount for the guard on the grinder on up to a functioning item. The CAD part of it was frustrating at first, as I was dealing with trying to do things I've never done before in a program I'm not familiar with. But I enjoy the problem solving side of things. Getting to try something out and then be able to remake the whole part just by tweaking the design and hitting a button is really nice. I'm willing to try things out where I would have long since run out of time and patience with the whole thing if I had to fabricate it myself. At this point I have something that kinda works but I think it could be much better. I'm at a back to the drawing board point to try something completely different and that would never happen without the 3d printer to do all the actual fabricating. It does take a very long time to print the whole attachment, around 18 hours. But to be able to tweak the design in an hour or so and then press a button and the next day I just have the thing ready to try out is very nice. Making this thing isn't my goal. The goal is to use it to do the thing I actually want to do more easily. I have a cnc machine, but I don't use it to replace my power carving. The 3d printer isn't going to replace making anything out of wood. The computerized stuff just does some of things I don't want to do or am not able to do. Oh and as far as Marc goes, he already has 3d models of the furniture he makes. He could use a 3d printer to make dollhouse sized version of the things he builds for Ava with next to zero effort.
  47. 1 point
    I liked Marc's breadbox build very much. Alison liked most of it. We compromised and below is the result. Air-dried walnut with ambrosia maple door and drawer, with ebony pulls.
  48. 1 point
    And his website is worth the time to read!
  49. 1 point
    So I was going through the Snodgrass routine and got to thinking more about that blade guard. Although it seemed intentionally loose, there is a spring that holds the blade guard to one side, there just didn't seem to be any purpose to making it that way. Spent some time looking at the mechanism more closely and found two recessed screws in the back. Sure enough they were loose and sure enough they were 4mm allen. I guess that the factory had neither files nor 4mm allen wrenches the day they made this unit. Anyway tightening the two screws solved the problem. Took out the shim.
  50. 1 point
    I would also recommend the Woodslicer, but I also have the Laguna Resaw King and it is an awesome blade for resawing.