Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/21/19 in all areas

  1. 12 points
    Just completed this table/bookcase. Made from white oak. Was my first adventure in through tenons. Think they turned out pretty good. Finish was a challenge, tried some tinted shellac, and then bailed out on that. Went with just a oil based stain then some wipe on poly. This will go to the entry way at church to hold bulletins, hand outs and some books.
  2. 12 points
    Last week I got to fulfill something on my bucket list. I was able to spend a week taking a class with Chuck Bender working on a Massachusetts serpentine chest. Last August I was diagnosed with prostate cancer, and when the shock wore off, the only thing that I could think that I would like to do would be to take a woodworking class with a professional. Thankfully surgery went well, and after 2 check ups since, no more cancer. While I was home recuperating I stumbled upon Chucks blog and saw that he had moved back to Jim Thorpe Pa. and was offering classes. The minute I saw the picture of the chest I knew I wanted to take the class. Had to borrow from my 401k to swing it but having just hearing a doctor tell me I had cancer I figured I can't take it with me. Chuck is one of the nicest people I have met. Very patient teacher, great sense of humor. And oh, an amazingly talented woodworker. We weren't able to finish the chest in the 5 days and Chuck graciously offer for us to come back on a weekend in November so that he could help us finish. Thank goodness because I definitely don't have the skills yet to finish the chest on my own. Just kinda wanted to share as I felt like this was a big step forward in woodworking for me and this was the first forum. I ever participated in.
  3. 10 points
    I made this for my niece's new baby boy. Just a small box from Wenge and Oak. I was trying to come up with something a little different for a handle on the lid... his name is Noah.
  4. 10 points
    Some final pictures. The finish I used on these is a coat of garnet shellac that I wiped on, then three light coats of General Finishes High Performance Satin. These are not something that gets "used or handled" so I think light coats will be plenty. It was more a process of getting all the raised grain and dust nips taken care or I probably could have stopped at two coats. The one on the left is my dad's, the one in the back ground and missing the flag is for my sister's husband, I will be taking it a little road trip to deliver it along with an album of the build. And the one on the right is my father in law's. When I did the engraving I did it in the same format and wording that is on each of their military head stones. A few pictures of some of the details.
  5. 10 points
    next was over to the mortise machine to put in 2 1/4 X 1/4 by 5/8” deep mortise and one in the center 1/4” by 1/2” long in the center, over to the router to remove the material in the center (underneath) at 1/2” depth, several passes and depth adjustments got this done, this will allow light to shine thru and also serve as a vent for the heat
  6. 9 points
    My apologies, I haven't been keeping up on this. I am in the finishing stage but according to the journal I am still building so let me get you caught up a little. After I took the bases out of the clamps, I cleaned up all the box joints with a chisel and then sanded them to 150. After that, I cut the top and bottom of the base to final size and added a chamfer all the way around, top and bottom. Next I wanted to glue a block at each end of the top and bottom piece so that when I do the glue up they self center instead slipping around while I get the clamps on. I got the top or bottom piece lined up and then put a little clamp pressure on so that things didn't move if bumped while I glued the blocks in place with CA glue. Final dry fit of the project. And then in the clamps with glue. I needed to come up with a way to have the base high enough so I could get clamps on when gluing the case to the base. I clamped two lengths of 2X4 to the end of my bench. I set the base on this. The other thing I was concerned about was glue squeeze out because with the chamfered edge of the case it could be a chore to clean up. So I laid down a border of blue tape. Then after getting the glue spread I pulled up the tape. I did the same on the bottom of the case. I used a couple of double squares I had set to the distances I wanted the case to be from the side and front edges of the base to line things up quickly and then get the clamps on. All in all it went pretty well.
  7. 9 points
    FINAL PICTURES We are done building the side table. Here are pictures (taken with my iPhone6). The case is Hard Maple from the USA. The drawer fronts are Black Walnut, figured Hard Maple, and pink Jarrah (hence the name, Harlequin). The drawer sides are quartersawn Tasmanian Oak, and the drawer bottoms/slips were made from Tasmanian Blue Gum. Finish was, initially, two coats of dewaxed UBeaut Hard White Shellac (the very faint amber adds a little warmth), followed by three coats of General Finishes water-based poly (this remains clear - does not yellow the maple - and appears to have some UV protection. It is hard wearing, which is necessary for a side table). The build features mitred, rounded dovetails and bow front and back. Eight drawers featuring compound dovetailing to match the bow front. Drawers are traditional half-blind dovetails at the front and through dovetails at the rear, with drawer bottoms into slips. About 2 months to build, mainly on weekends. Here is the rear of the table (which will be seen through the windows, which run floor-to-ceiling along the family room ... The pulls were shaped from what-I-believe-to-be-some-type-of Ebony ... The obligatory dovetails ... Do you think that anyone will notice that the drawer bottoms run sequentially? And this one is for Bill, who was concerned that the chamfers at the end of the drawers (to ease entry into the case) might impair their extension ... A last look ... Thursday morning I haul the table to the Perth Wood Show for the annual furniture competition. Wish me luck. Regards from Perth Derek
  8. 9 points
    Out of the clamps, block plane, ROS to get the angle on the edge of the shade, these get set aside until the bases are done
  9. 8 points
    I have a few living room tables to make. Most of them are going to be my typical style that runs with the theme of the room but there is going to be one oddball that will be fun to make and i want to try something new. The first table on the list is the easiest. I just need to copy an end table i made a few years back. The main goal was to use up some reclaimed cherry from a bedroom door someone gave me. It was a solid cherry door that they cut some pieces off of so it was no longer usable as a door. Not bad for a reclamied wood project eh? First step was to make the MDF fence for my miter gauge that i've been meaning to make for a while now. After that was done it was as simple as cutting parts to get kinda close to the same size as the other table. I used the domino for the joinery. and also to attach the side slats on. It's the same techniquie I did for the last one. Used the drum sander to sand the slats to fit perfectly in a 6mm mortise. I used the table saw to establish the shoulder on 2 sides and cut the rest back until they fit. Next was to get everything finish prepped. #4 to the rescue! Marc mad a post on social media about rounding corners with a sander. I've never had that problem with a handplane and it's a ton faster to get perfect finish ready. I don't sand much any more after my smoother because it honestly makes the surface look worse. After finish prep it was a pretty painless assembly. Then it was on to making the top. The previous table has an ash top that came from scraps from a build i did a LONG time ago. Luckily i always planned on making 2 and kept the scraps. I ran it through the drum sander after it was glued up to even everything out. Because the grain is kinda crazy and i get a lot of tear out on this wood I took off the drum sander grit marks with a card scraper. Took me maybe 10 min to go from 80 grit to finish ready. Total time was about 10 hours. Just need to apply finish.
  10. 8 points
    In July, I posted a router-based method I used to remove the waste from hand cut hand-blind sockets (link). This involved orientating the boards vertically and routing into the end grain. This necessitated a rather clumsy piece of work-holding - which, as I explained at the time, was difficult to avoid as the end grain was not square to the sides, as is usual with drawer front. The bow fronted drawers created ends which were angled.With the usual square drawer fronts, both Bill and Roger on the forum preferred to place their boards flat on the bench and rest the router on the edge. Roger's photos ...However, this method leaves is too much waste remaining at the sides of the socket - as this is angled and the router bit is vertical - which means that there is more work needed to clear ...Bill's objection - that holding the work piece vertically looked too clumsy for easy work - continued to ring in my head. The horizontal method certainly had the advantage of being more stable. So, now that my then-current project, the Harlequin Table, is complete, between pieces I take some time to solve these problems. Which I have, and hopefully in a way that others will find helpful.Just as an aside, my preference is hand tool work, and generally if the wood is willing this is my go-to. The method here is not to replace all hand work, but to make the process easier in particular circumstances. Some of the timbers I work, especially for cases and drawer fronts, are extremely hard, and it is not viable to chop them out, particularly when there are several to do. It is not simply that this is time consuming - after all, this is just my hobby - but that it is hard on the chisels. I use machines to compliment hand tools. There is a time and place for everything.Let's take it from the beginning:Step 1: saw the pins ...Step 2: deepen the kerfs with (in my case) a kerfing chisel (see my website for more info) ...Now we come to the new jig. I must tell you that this did my head in for a long time. As with everything, there is a simple solution, and in the end it could not have been simpler!The need is (1) quick and easy set up, (2) accurate routing leaving minimal waste, and (3) visibility and dust control (bloody machines!).The jigThis turned out to be nothing more than a block of wood. This one is 16"/440mm long x 4"/100mm high and 2"/50mm wide.I used MicroJig clamps, which slide along a sliding dovetail. This is not necessary; one can just use a couple of F-clamps. However the MicroJig clamps not only make work holding less finicky, but they extend the length of the board one can hold with this particular jig to 500mm. That is easily enough for most case widths.To use, place face down on a flat surface and clamp the drawer front close to centre ...Up end the combination, and place the end of the drawer front into your vise. This could be a face vise or, as here, a Moxon vise. Note that the image is taken from the rear of the vise ...This is what you will see when standing in front of the jig/vise ...Let's talk about the router.This is a Makita RT0700C trim router. Fantastic little router: 1 hp, variable speed, soft start. Together with a Mirka 27mm antistatic dust hose, the dust collection is amazing! The photo shown is after use, and there is no dust to be found (I very much doubt that a small plunge router could remain this clean). That also means that visibility is good, even though it does not have a built-in light. There are other excellent trim routers around for much the same price. This is the one I use.The baseThe base is the other half of the jig. This made from 6mm perspex. This is not the strongest, but does the job. I plan to build another out of polycarbonite (Lexan), which is much tougher.There is just the single handle as the left hand will grip the dust outlet.Below is the rear of the base. Note the adjustable fence/depth stop ...This is the underside ...Plans for anyone looking to make their own ...Setting upStep 1: set the depth of cut - I scribed marks on the fence for two drawer side thickness I use. Mostly I use 6mm (or 1/4"). The other is 10mm, which is used here. I shall make another, deeper fence, so that I can add a few other thicknesses, such as 19mm for case sides.Step 2: set the cut to the boundary line - this is done as close as possible. In the end I want to leave about 1mm to clear with a chisel (this is such an important line that I am not willing to take a risk here). If you move the bit side-to-side, the scratch pattern will show where it is cutting ...The resultThe router bit is 5/32" carbide. It is very controllable, and this makes it possible to freehand close to the side kerfs. The fence/depth stop prevents over-cutting the boundary line. In 15 seconds, this is the result ...Turn the board around to chisel out the waste ..Order of waste removalFirst lever away the sides. The waste here is paper thin and breaks away ...Secondly, place a wide chisel in the scribed boundary line, and chop straight down ...Finally, use a fishtail chisel into the corners to remove this ...A note: removing the waste this cleanly and easily was facilitated by using the kerfing chisel to ensure that there was a release cut at the sides of the socket.Regards from PerthDerek
  11. 8 points
    Got it finished and in place. I used flood cwf-uv finish because i got it free and why not. Starting to get it filled up.
  12. 8 points
    I'm a big fan of mesquite. Also, the fruit woods, apple, pear, persimmon.
  13. 8 points
    This has been an interesting project, learning a lot. Today I put the top coat of epoxy on the board. Started by sanding and cleaning everything up from the glassing procedure (applying the fiberglass). Tape off the rails and let the tape drape so excess epoxy doesn't run over to the underside and make drip lines. By draping the tape the excess epoxy simply drips onto the floor, glad I put the paper down because I'm making a mess. Here's the board taped up; On the back of the board I made a small dam out of the tape, trying to build up a little bit of a harder edge here with the epoxy; Next it's brushing on the epoxy. I'm doing the bottom of the board in these pics, I did the top this morning before heading to church. The top did not turn out as smooth as I wanted, I had some bubbles in the mix and they popped after I left it, leaving some small pot marks. This side I waited and did a final once over after most of the bubbles came to the surface. Learning as I go. I'll likely have to put another coat on the top. After the coats dry I need to final sand and clean up, then I might be done! Thanks for looking.
  14. 8 points
    Welcome to my world this is the Bday card I got from my wife
  15. 7 points
    The molds with the Plumbers epoxy putty came out pretty good. The reason you see the plastic wrap in a mass around it on the old sash, was so I could take those gloves off, and knead it into good contact with my fingers, before it set up. More tuning on the molding plane today, since I now have a good pattern from the mold. Used a couple of round molding planes, and a sharp chisel. More grinding on the iron, sharpened it, and ran a test piece. A couple of small tweaks on the iron, and we'll be ready to run the profile. I thought I got lucky on this first go. We stopped here for the day, at lunch time. I can see where they liked this European Beech for molding planes. I've never worked any wood that would be better suited, or works as easily, and still seems plenty durable. We'll make multiple setups on the table saw to take some of the bulk away first, and this molding plane will just finish up the profiles. We have air conditioning in this old house that I use, but I left the table saw work for another day. Will be cutting grass until dark tonight, starting after the Sun goes down some. More another day on this.
  16. 7 points
    Black walnut bowl about 7” across from a chunk Ricky sent me. Sanded to 320 and Osmo wiped on and buffed. Still needs the backside done.
  17. 7 points
  18. 7 points
    I normally just do laminated bowls but lately have done some candle holders, both turned and non-turned, and some business card holders. Almost everything is still laminate. Here are some of them:
  19. 7 points
    a little more done today, the angle of the sides at the bottom and top caused the top and bottom to not be flat, the solution I came up with was to use a 3/8” rabbiting bit in the router table and climb cut around the bottom of the base taking small cuts of course, the result is a (tenon ?) on the bottom and I plan on routing a mating groove (mortise ?) in the bottom piece that will fit under the base, I plan on making the very bottom piece bigger by about 2” for stability cut the mortises for the shade support arms and made a test piece, I used the base as a guide to set the correct angle for the support arms the top was such a small difference that I decided to put it on the belt sander with the fence set at the proper angle, worked well, I plan on cutting a 4 inch square piece for the top with a shallow rabbit and screwing it on for removal to access the light fixture
  20. 7 points
    I have my hinges mostly fitted to the cabinet. I think the end result looks pretty good. I went with the continuous hinges, but they were pretty industrial looking when they arrived. They had a very inconsistent surface finish, and were covered in sticky grease. I cleaned them off using denatured alcohol and then used a wire wheel on the bench grinder to even out the finish. I followed up by putting a thin layer of paste wax, and they now have a nice satin finish. I had to mortise the hinges into each side a bit over 1/16 to get the gap down to something reasonable. I'm pretty happy with the results. I clamped the cabinet down to the bench and must have stood there playing with the doors for a solid 5 minutes. One thing I discovered is that my doors are square, but my cabinet will rack a bit with the back off. I'm going to need to install it later today with a square in place, so I can make sure it all lines up. Once I have that figured out I think I'm on to finish sanding and breaking edges, then applying a couple of coats of tried and true on it. I want to match my bench as closely as possible.
  21. 6 points
    not as much time in the shop today as I would have liked, I did get the support arms done and installed then on to the baseroutered a groove for the base to sit in, just a shade wider than the 3/8” (tenon) on the bottom next I wanted to put a cloud lift on the bottom piece, a little thinking and the Forrest dado made short work of that, I’m debating if I want to glue or screw this base piece on or maybe both. the oak I had was not thick enough so I added 1/4” square pads to the corners of the base.
  22. 6 points
    I discovered that one lamp was not standing quite vertical last night, I wasn’t much but after much thought and re- cutting the bottom of the base with the router I fixed it. the rest of the shop time went to fitting the mortises for the support arms and screwing them in temporary, but progress is progress I guess, tomorrow I’ll cut the arms to length and add an outboard vertical support to each arm to center the shade and hold it in place
  23. 6 points
    I normally make laminated bowls and haven't post any here for quite a while. Lately I've made a few candle holders. Here are some of the turned one:
  24. 6 points
    Coop, I'd use a hand plane making sure to work in a manner that minimizes blowout. Usually that means from the sides toward the center. I usually work from all sorts of angles until i find the one that reduces the tear out and blowout. For drawers i clamp 2 boards across my bench and hang the drawer off the side. Edit: To add this is one of the reasons why having your legs flush with the side of your bench is quite helpful. It gave the box 3 points of contact and made everything quite sturdy.
  25. 6 points
    Well this build is a wrap. Only thing left to do is get this in the ocean, and that should happen next week. I'll try to get a few photos of that. I really liked this build, it was a new technique of construction and that is always fun. There was a lot of resawing, a ton of gluing operations, and a lot of shaping. I've never worked with epoxy as a finish before and the glassing of the board totally put me out of my comfort level. So this checked off a lot of boxes and hopefully improved my skills. Finally, I have a super stoked son who can't wait to ride this thing. Here's hoping for some offshore tropical systems to put big waves on the Mid-Atlantic coast! I sanded the last epoxy coat up to the 1500. I did not polish or buff it, but rather left it as a slightly matte surface. Wax will be added to the deck area for traction. The epoxy finish ended up pretty nice, esp since it was my first time. I did have some issues with bubbles, and I think those came from the pumps I used to get the epoxy measured. Would love to hear any tips on how to avoid bubbles in epoxy finishes. Well again, thanks for looking!
  26. 6 points
    A little progress today, final fit of the top and glued it in place, put walnut splines in the corners, a little strength but mostly looks cool, and glued the shades to the skirt. the skirt won’t be cut for the stained glass until I’m closer to the end, bases start tomorrow
  27. 6 points
    I am in the process of completing the Harlequin Table. I will post the finished piece in a couple of days. Here are a few pictures of making the drawer bottoms for the slips, which may interest a few. Bill was not enamoured with the slips as they has this ruddy great groove down one side. That was a too-wide quirk from the beading blade. Not to worry Bill, I cut that section away, leaving just the bead. Here are the slips being glued in ... The drawer slips and bottoms are Tasmanian Blue Gum. The drawer sides are Tasmanian Oak. Both are 1/4" thick. The groove in the slip is 1/8" (3mm). The slip requires a matching 1/8" rebate. This was planed with a skew rebate plane on a sticking board ... Although the plane has a nicker, I always scribe the line as well ... It is worth the effort to set up the rebate plane for a precise cut ... Once the one side is done, slide the tongue into the groove of the slip, and mark off the width of the drawer bottom ... Then saw to width ... Any fine tuning is done with a shoulder plane ... The drawer fronts are all curved, and the drawer bottom must be scribed to match this ... Here is the fit behind the front of the drawer, and the match with the beaded slips ... The rear of the drawer, with the added bearing surface from the slips ... The profile of the drawer sides ... Until the final pics ... Regards from Perth Derek
  28. 5 points
    The owners of the 1850 house, that we put the Cypress Shingle roof on, have had on their to-do list for me to make two pairs of window sash. They are to replace some made in 1982, that don't come close to matching the rest of the originals left in the house. We completely redid all the old ones. For several years, they have asked when I was going to get to it, but other stuff kept coming up. We had taken some of the unused (now that we have new trusses holding the sagging roof back up to a flat plane) brace posts that were in the attic, as part of a poorly designed structure, to get wood out of for the two pairs of sash I need to build. Some of those posts are seen in the first picture. It's all Heart Pine that has been drying in that attic for 169 years. It's not only dry, but Very heavy. I didn't weigh it, but it weighs more than Oak does for pieces the same size. Milling it showed that every piece was also completely stable, and no cut moved the slightest bit. Mike spent his time cleaning them, before I ran them on the jointer to get them ready to go through the table saw for rough sizing. I put an old set of knives in the jointer, because even with Mike's best effort with a wire brush, they had 169 years of dirt on them. I used a set of knives that I had decided to toss anyway, but kept them just for this job. I knew we wouldn't have enough of the Heart Pine, but I had kept some pieces of Heart Cypress from making handrails for this house. I just rough cut the stiles, top and bottom rails, meeting rails, glazing bars, and muntins today. Any sapwood you see on the Cypress parts will be cut off. Everything in the picture is cut oversize. I'll sharpen a new set of knives for that jointer tomorrow, and we'll run them to finish size. Since it's just four of them, I'm going to see how it goes to just run the molding profiles by hand. They're not exactly like any I've seen before, so if we put $1800 in a set of custom router bits, they may never be used again. If I can break even on the cost of the bits, in hand labor, both the owners, and I will be happy. I've made single sash before by hand, but these are large, nine lights, so have a fair number of feet of molding profile, and a lot of tenons to cope. I ended up running a number of extra pieces of the Cypress because I wanted to only use the heart, and cut off any sap wood. We were running close, and the top rails may end up with a small bit of sapwood, but they will be in a protected spot up in the jamb, and the windows will be painted inside, and out with Sherwin-Williams Emerald exterior paint. More pictures, and update the next day we work on them. I'm not sure if that will be tomorrow, or not. They should look just like this one when we get finished. We already have the hand blown cylinder glass cut to the right size 12x14 inch panes.
  29. 5 points
    Starting to pick up some speed on this project. Glued up the seat frames and cleaned up some templates. Here are the seat templates, you see the frame and the template for the 1/2" plywood that will turn into the cushion. There is about an 1/8th" gap all the way around the seat cushion template. In theory that space will be taken up by the leather covering. The cushion will simply fit in via friction; The seat frame glued up, culls were cut out in one area to achieve a better clamping direction of pressure. The excess on the inside of the frame will receive a rabbet up to the pattern line and the remaining lip will support the cushion. Here's a close up of the back joint in the seat frame. Two stacked 6mm dominos are the support for this joint. Both angles were cut at 42 degrees to match the same 42 degree angle the side and backrest were cut at. Pleased with the joint; The front joint makes up for the combined 42 degree cuts in the back. The side is cut at 6 degrees to match a square front rail, stacked 6mm dominos here also; Here's what's on tap next; Cut off excess on the outside of the seat frame via the band saw. Pattern route the outside of the seat. Rabbet the inside of the seat. Fit the seat frame to the sides of the chair and attach using 8mm dominos. Cut out and fit the plywood cushion base and upholster the seat. Glue up chair. Continue to shape, sand and personalize the look of the chair. Thanks for looking
  30. 5 points
    I do love me some mesquite! Mesquite is not the easiest wood to work with, but it's worth the extra effort, IMO. It's high in mineral content which makes it very abrasive to tools. Here's a good write up about the lumber. One thing I will say is that I LOVE the smell in my shop after milling it. Bear in mind that it's roughly twice as hard as red oak, so carbide tooling is very highly recommended. It also has a great deal of color variation, so matching boards can be a challenge. When finished with oil to bring out the figure it's on par with many exotics, and priced accordingly. I'm a west Texas oil trash guy and grew up with it, so I have a real appreciation for finding something beautiful in such an otherwise desolate landscape. When people ask about the projects I've made with it they're shocked, to a person, when I tell them it's mesquite. I get the bulk of mine from Faifer & Co. outside San Antonio, TX. Here are a few of the pieces I've used mesquite in. Floating top table Cutting board with turquoise Medicine cabinet Our kitchen cabinet fronts. Cherry frames. Large charcuterie board for Alison's niece. Black palm feet. Morris chair. Rookhee campaign chair. Just realized I may have a problem...
  31. 5 points
    Another stressful step done- laying out and drilling holes for the tuners. Layout would have been easy if I had made a template before rounding the edges of the headstock or if I took a few minutes to draw it in CAD, but what fun would that be? The tuner pegs are 6mm and the bushings are something like 8.7mm. The pegs are not centered on the tuner, and there are left/right tuners so you do have to pay attention drilling and installing. I used a compass for most of the layout. I wanted the tuners to follow the curve of the headstock and be evenly spaced along the length of it. You may be able to see some of my layout lines here. Nothing about this gives the warm and fuzzies. The 6mm drill bit hole was too snug for the pegs, I probably should have used the 6.5mm bit. I used a reamer to open them up a bit. Then used a special reamer bit to counterbore for the bushings. Ended up with a bit of tearout, but most of it will be covered by the bushings. Glad that’s over!
  32. 5 points
    So I've found my niche. Dice bowls for gamers. Keep your dice contained in style. I've been getting more and more commissions, and I'm not complaining! This weekend I'll be working with some honey locust, paduk and spalted ambrosia maple. Here are some of my latest.
  33. 5 points
    This is not my business, it's my hobby. I'm in my early 50's and do all this work myself. I really look at it as a form of exercise and satisfying my woodworking addiction. I have no desire to do this as a business, but I hope to continue to build for family and friends (3 kids that are between 18-23). My real addiction is probably not knowing when to say enough is enough. So my hoarding is basically the following; self-induced hard labor that keeps me out of trouble, causing me to sweat profusely in the hot/humid August weather, and feeding the woodworking bug. In the end it's probably better than a gym membership!
  34. 5 points
    Tiger maple does not look good painted!
  35. 5 points
    Been working on this lately. I'm trying to get it done so i can finally consolidate my firewood storage to one spot. Glued the sides together. This guy is nearly 8' long so it was a tricky job. My parallel clamp extenders have been put to use a LOT since i've made them. The center post wasn't supported very well so i ran a brace to the top back rail. I also did a grid system for the bottom with a couple support blocks. I wanted to keep the bottom support quite open so as much air flow can surround the wood as possible. I figure keeping the moisture out will help prevent the storage rack from rotting out. Used my counter sink drill bit i got from rockler to do some free hand pocket holes. I like this bit a lot and do recomend it. It's not the best but it does the trick for me. https://www.rockler.com/8-pro-tapered-countersink-bit I got the doors mounted and found some nice marine hardware that i used for hinges and latches. I'm goign to leave the dog ear on the pickets that overhang the front edge. I set it up and kind of like the look. Unless someone gives me a good reason why this is foolish. I'll post some links to the hardware later. I'm quite impressed with some of the marine hardware that is available on Amazon. Hinges are tight and seem to be well made. You can get them in 316 stainless so it should hold up outdoors for a long time.
  36. 5 points
    Thanks for the tips. I managed to joint one face and then take it to the bandsaw with success. There are a few end cracks that I'll and stabilise with epoxy (or cut off) before turning it. The square was more of a guide to show where I could get my blank from. As the water shows, there's some pretty colours in there. The mallet was the same timber that I turned up a few years ago.
  37. 5 points
    Testament to this pumps holding power.
  38. 5 points
    The brain of any pipe organ is called the wind chest and that is the next component on the list. This is the beginning of a "slider chest". Yes, I'm using MDF and masonite. Some of the worst organ builders in the trade make their chests out of such stuff. (Some of the greats use it, too.) As I said above, this is a homely first step to get some techniques down before I make my next instruments with the good quality Baltic Birch. For all that, though, it's stable, smooth, dead flat, readily available, and it takes glue beautifully. And now I remember why I can't stand having MDF in my shop. As I said, learning experiences.
  39. 5 points
    Mmmmmm. I just love the way oil makes the grain pop! 2nd coat of oil on the body.
  40. 5 points
    Just got this today and Used it to square up a piece of stock. It's flawless, as my experience has consistently been with LN products. Right out of the box, the blade is sharp enough for whispey thin shavings, but I will definitely be doing some additional honing and introducing a very slight camber as the straight blade leaves tracks. The blade advance wheel has the least amount of slop of any plane I've ever seen. The chipbreaker is sharper than the blade of some manufactures planes and the overall fit and finish is outstanding. The locking screws for the frog are accessible from behind, which is nice because you don't have to remove the blade and breaker to adjust the frog. LN bills it as the heaviest of their jack planes and they ain't lying. This thing is VERY stout. Personally I find the 5-1/2 jack to be the perfect plane - immediately able to do any task. I used to square up a piece of Maple and it made short work of it. I also used it to shoot the end grain and again it performed very well. My ONLY gripe, and it's a very small one, is that there isn't much space between the blade and handle for the lateral adjustment lever. This is my first BD Lie Nielsen plane, so maybe they're all that way. Hardly a big deal but thought I'd mention it. It's not an inexpensive plane but in my opinion, they back up the larger price tag with quality that's above and beyond. I have a skewed block plane arriving tomorrow. Will post a review of that as well.
  41. 5 points
    Cut a guide block of wood the right angle to hold beside a drill bit. There are many ways to do it very precisely, but that should be good enough for a handrail. I've built many.
  42. 5 points
    There was a time when Yellow Pine was good enough to build cabinets from. These are in the last house that I was able to. It was 1991, and the last such good building supplier/sawmill went out of business the next year. The panels in these doors were built from 1/2" thick boards that came out of their stacks, not flattened, and planed down to size. I doubt many of you have ever worked with any. Back then, it was stable, and no more stress in it than anything else. They air dried it for a year on stickers, and then kiln dried it. These days, they saw it, and kiln dry it that night. The top rails aren't really darker than the rest of it. It's just something funny about the lighting. I know some of you don't like Pine anyway, but it was cheap, and there was always a buyer without having to wait very long for one to come along. We were working on this house today because it had taken a direct hit by a small tornado, and we had some reassembly to do, but that's another story. edited to add: I think the microwave, and range are from 1991 too.
  43. 5 points
    Those were pretty quick. A cove bit down each side of the blank, cut to length, cove the ends and arc the fronts. Short vertical ones for doors. Longer horizontal ones for drawers.
  44. 5 points
    Got some more done on the surfboard, between some short out of town trips and work. Here's where I'm at now; Board is sanded to 220, rails shaped as good as I could shape them; Next it was moving on to the glassing of the board. I'm putting a 6 oz layer of fiberglass on the top and bottom for strength. Opted to do one layer on the top, was planning 2, but for further research says I should be able to get away with one layer since this is a wooden board. Before I started glassing I needed to build glassing and sealcoating stands. Real simple and it's about 40" high; Had to move into my garage for this step and placed paper on the floor for the mess I will create. First step is to lay the fiberglass sheet out and trim to size; Next I mixed the epoxy and poured it down the middle of the board; Then using a rubber squeegee/spreader, I worked the epoxy into the fiberglass cloth and spread it out as evenly as possible. Then I sgueegeed the excess cloth over the rails to the under side. Here's what it looked like the next morning; I sanded off the excess cloth on the underside and added another layer to that side. Sanded it again after both sides were coated and now I'm on to the fin. I glassed this on, first using quick setting epoxy for initial placement then using fiberglass cloth and epoxy for the glassing, The sheets of fiberglass cover the fin and extend down on to the board about 2-3"; I'll trim that up and sand it once it sets, then on to the vent and leash plugs, followed by the final epoxy sealcoat and final sanding. I can see the end in sight! Thanks for looking.
  45. 5 points
    next I put the skirts in the frame clamp to check the fit, looks good to me. The part of the skirt that is not on the same plane as the lamp shade will be hand planed to match the angle of the shade. the plan is to add 2 splines, maybe walnut to the mitered corners of the skirt and after its all glued up cut the skirt in half (horizontal) and add in a band of 1/8” stained glass all around
  46. 5 points
    Beautiful work and good use of the contrasting butternut and walnut. Shows you have a good sense of humidor.
  47. 5 points
    I have a neighbor, bless his heart, a retired single 60 something guy that has way too much time on his hands. A 3 yo $30k bay boat with less than 40 hours, a fortune in black powder guns, the elite in golf clubs and hours and hours of study on all of the above. Unfortunately the guy couldn’t catch the first fish, hit a target at 50 yards or break 100 if his life depended on it. Point is, regardless of you library, if not applied, it does you no good.
  48. 5 points
    I did/have messed up, I’m just not telling anybody
  49. 4 points
    My threshold? Well a piece of wood is garbage if it can fit in my pocket and be confused for small change. I don't make anything like the amount of scrap that you guys do, nor do I have anything like the wood stash that you guys do. So on the one hand I can afford to keep ridiculous fragments (I always chuckle when I think of you guys while I'm rummaging through or adding to my scrap bin). On the other hand I don't have other wood I can just cut a little piece off of. I pulled a little piece out the day before, cut into three and two of those pieces were the perfect solution to mounting a sharpening jig. The third piece? Well, hey, that went back in the scrap bin.
  50. 4 points
    So I’ve always been fascinated by the fan inlays, shells, ovals and such of Federal furniture. Here’s my first attempt after buying a cast iron skillet (very small) a single burner and some craft sand. First you get the sand very hot (just turn the darned burner on high), then test it with wood you don’t care about (scrap of something). I used maple but went to holly for the actual piece, my first attempt. It singed OK, so I laid out the 5-segment pattern for a corner fan - start simple I say...