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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/07/20 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    This morning, I was able to get the new bushings in the front axle body. It weighs every bit of 200 pounds, so I had to go carefully slow, working by myself in this isolation. I was able to roll it around on a moving dolly. I had cut up some leftover scraps of 4x6 into cribbing, figuring I could jump up each of the three "corners", one at the time, by myself. That actually worked great. I could not have done this job, by myself, safely without the cribbing. It was actually kind of fun having to figure it out, and being able to take what time I needed. Some of the cribbing blocks allowed me to get it into position at the shop press, to press in the largest bushing. I had tried to tap it in without the press, but was having an impossible time keeping it straight, and once it got crooked, there was no straightening it back out. I'd have to knock it out with a dead blow hammer, and try again. Once I got it set up on the press, the bearing went right in. The small diameter bushing on the front pivots inside another bushing in the tractor frame. The front of that axle casting was too long to get in the press, but being a small diameter, it was much easier to get lined up so I could pound it in with the 2 pound stone hammer, and some press dies. I stood it against the press, with the back end on the floor, and that went right in too. I got lucky on the big bushing in the frame, and first lick with the dead blow hammer sent it straight enough to finish with a couple of press dies, and the 2 pound hammer. Then I rolled the axle into position under the front of the tractor, installed the bell crank, and started stacking the cribbing, and jumping up each corner. It took me three hours to do all these steps, but I went back to the house to each lunch, and the main axle casting was in the tractor. I had to get Pam to come help me get the axle ends on. I could have done it by myself if I had taken the wheels off, but I called her away from what she was working on, and in fifteen minutes, we had some bolts in each side holding the axle ends on. I spent another couple of hours hooking up the new tie rod ends, and aligning the front tires. This is the first time, since I've owned this tractor, that there is no slop in the front end. The mixed up, for the second time, order of new hydraulic lines is supposed to be here Wednesday, so I might actually get to see if it all works this week.
  2. 3 points
    I recently found these while helping my daughter move from on apartment to another. They come in 1/4” as well. It’s like a typical toggle bolt but the wing nut stays in place and the bolt can be removed and re-inserted. I’ll never use a plain toggle bolt again.
  3. 3 points
    The green stain on the lower part of this piece strongly suggests that it is tulip poplar / Liriodendron tulipifera
  4. 3 points
    Hey everyone this is Dave Darr, owner of Walrus Oil, just noticed the conversation and wanted to offer some insight. All of our Furniture Finishes are curing finishes. The "Furniture Finish" is most similar to your typical Danish Oil. Our "Furniture Butter" and "Furniture Wax" are made of both drying oils and hard waxes. We also offer a Tung-Oil based product called "Cabin Walls and Hardwood Floors" which is probably the fastest drying product we make. None of our finishes have added dryers or synthetics, so they can sometimes take slightly longer to dry than some finishes that have accelerators in the ingredients. In regards to our non-drying finishes, that would be our Cutting Board Oil and Wood Wax for Cutting Boards. When using our Furniture Finishes with stains, we always recommend only using them with oil-based stains that are fully cured. And just to be safe, test it on a small area first or scrap piece of wood to make sure the results meet your expectations. You guys are awesome, thanks for the support, and stay safe out there during this weird time!
  5. 2 points
    They think these are weapons.
  6. 2 points
    There’s a lot about FB that is stupid.
  7. 2 points
    Yeah that's a really good point that I hadn't even thought about Ross, but you know that will happen LOL. It will be dyed black so if I paint a couple screws and inset them into the wood they will blend in. The most important thing is that it stays on the wall Hmm food for thought Thanks Chet!!
  8. 2 points
    This is slope-dependent, but I have had success rolling crates and pallets with >500lbs of whatever in/on them on black iron pipes. I took them off my pipe clamps in one situation and rolled a tool in its shipping box from its drop point outside my old building, into the building, down a hallway with a concrete floor, into the elevator, and then down the hallway to my old shop space on the seventh floor. I had to use wedges (like door stops) to keep the thing from rolling as I rearranged the pipes but 45 minutes later I had the box in place.
  9. 1 point
    Uh, they are to some wood.!
  10. 1 point
    Have room for a french cleat? I've hung a couple 100 lb mirrors in the last week with them.
  11. 1 point
    Could this be a Tiger Hard Maple?
  12. 1 point
    Mine is old, and too large since I will have the roubo. It’s also not really flat anymore.
  13. 1 point
    I think that was cool. I agree, thanks Dave for giving us your professional advice. I will check out your website and your products.
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    I play pool or, did until all this Corona virus started. I played about three times a week played league one night a week and, played in a couple tournaments, you need a pocket full of quarters to feed the tables. A friend gave me this quarter dispenser ( a plastic cylinder with a spring inside it) It was exactly like this one it fell off a table and broke the catch lip off the top. I saved the spring and, being bored I decided to make one on my lathe so I turned a 1 1/4" cylinder now I needed a 1" all the way through well centered because there was only 1/8" of meat on the edges and needed to be a smooth shaft so the quarter didn't hang up all I have is a drill press I wanted to drill halfway from one end and halfway through the other end. After much cussing and many test runs on scrap wood I came on the solution. I drilled a 1" hole halfway through some scrap 3/4 ply than drilled a small hole the thickness of a 8d nail I drilled the same hole in a square blank of wood the drilled hole worked for alignment on my lathe. I turned a 1" dowel to fit in the 1" hole in the 3/4 ply I cut a 8d nail so it went through the ply and would stick through a sliced piece of the 1" dowel that sat proud of the ply about 1/2", I put the nail in my hand drill and spun it against my grinder making a sharp point in the end now I have a piece of 3/4 ply with a dowel sticking out 1/2" and, a sharpened nail centered through all this. I put my 1" forstner bit in my drill press lowered and locked the quill till it was just slightly above the sharpened nail I moved the plywood around until the sharpened nail and the point of the bit lined up and clamped the ply down to the table. My 1 1/4" cylinder has the center holes already established so I set one end on the sharpened nail bring the forstner bit into the other center hole drill through halfway then I flip the cylinder around and set it over the 1" dowel then drill through the other half and you get as smooth a shaft as you can get with a forstner bit. Anyway I could of bought another dispenser for less than $10.00 but this kept me busy for almost 2 days most of this was coming up with this drill press trick the turning and glue up I would have been done by lunch if I already had the drilling jig figured out.
  16. 1 point
    I think I would tend to do something like Ross mentions. I would want it pretty well secured just in case. It sounds like you want the option of removing it from the wall down the road. What about a horizontal sliding dovetail or even two. If you had the dovetail stand away from the wall you could end up with the appearance of the rack floating in the air.
  17. 1 point
    Nice solution! I enjoy hearing how other folks solve problems with what they have on hand. Always a new trick to learn.
  18. 1 point
    Thanks, Dave! Its great to have the guy who REALLY knows the answer to chime in!
  19. 1 point
    Are you talking about keyholes in the wood itself, or steel keyhole plates? I feel like the weight may be a touch high for just two keyhole in the wood. I realize that most of the force will be down, not out, but if someone grabs a stick without paying attention, and pulls it against the retainer, it could come off the wall. I would feel better with a fastening that can be tightened in place.
  20. 1 point
    I bought this brush on a lark, thinking it was interesting, but no big deal. When I got it, I was surprised at the quality of the brush. It has 3" long natural boar bristles that are just the right amount of stiffness - Stiff enough for general cleaning, but soft enough for delicate stuff too. I couldn't figure out where to keep it, so I drilled a small counterbore on the back and super glued an ND magnet in it. Now I can just stick it to the overarm dust collector on my saw and it is in easy reach. This brush has turned out to be really handy.
  21. 1 point
    Wait, you have twins arriving and you think you're getting into the shop anytime in the next 18 years?!
  22. 1 point
    Ha. It's just escalated in a new direction. I'm almost finished wiring the garage. It looks like I will have the shop in functional shape before the twins arrive...good thing, as I don't want to wait 18 years to have a shop available to me.
  23. 1 point
    When I go my bandsaw the driver was pretty much a jerk an left it at the curb and the pallet was in horrible shape so I had to unpack everything right were it was. Fortunately I have a pretty strong son in law that lives right next door. When I had my Powermatic Jointer delivered the driver was a real gem. He hopped out of the cab, asked me we're I wanted it, I pointed out the spot in the shop and he dropped it right on the money. I tried to give him $40 for his effort and he wouldn't take it. Same freight company both times.
  24. 1 point
    If it's going to be on a mobile base, just leap frog plywood, and roll it where it needs to go. Have them sit in on the first sheet, and the first sheet overlaps a little onto the second sheet. They don't even need to be full width sheets, depending on the width of the machine. I've built many temporary ramps for steps. The last time I moved a 15" planer like this (where the loader would have torn up the yard), I used a Maasdam rope puller to pull it up the steps, and got it in the house by myself.
  25. 1 point
    You can rent a pallet jack. Here is a video Unemployed redneck showing how he did his Grizzly planer.