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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/10/20 in Posts

  1. 5 points
    I've been there 3 times now and plan to return soon. Doesn't look like there will be any in-person classes this fall semester, so I'll have some time to do a few trips. It's a beautiful drive from here - through Georgia O'Keefe country and southern CO. I got stuck in construction traffic last time I went up. Not a bad place to get stuck. s I ordered a small lathe today, a Rikon 70-220VSR, mainly to make a couple of urns. One for me and one for Alison's son.
  2. 2 points
    Gotcha. As long as you don't need to move anything it would work great. In my shop I do move the bandsaws, J/P, and drum sander on a pretty regular basis which is why I didn't do that side of the shop. FWIW they are pretty thin like 5/16ths, I think and I don't ever recall tripping on them, my own feet yes but not the floor tiles lol.
  3. 2 points
    Mac, I’ve used pocket holes successfully for a while now, mostly for cabinets and they are pretty strong. If this were mine and there are no restrictions as to why you can’t, I would make the front (not where you sit) panel/apron, extend further to the floor to help prevent racking.
  4. 2 points
    More pocket holes wouldn't hurt, but what you really need is another rail in the back down low.
  5. 2 points
    I just found this post and LOVE it! What a beautiful piece of work. BMAC, MUCH thanks for the EXCELLENT post! I'm getting ready to build my first two chairs for two granddaughters. Because I've never built one I was going to first build one from scrap 2x4s and hopefully make all of my mistakes there. I've been watching a video by Scott Morrison and IMHO your post is as good or better. Because the girls are small I've decided to reduce the plans to 75% of the original size. I did this in CorelDraw with a plug-in. I've printed the new plans, taped all the sheets together, pasted them on 1/4" BB plywood, cut them out. I've preped the wood. I'm at the point where I'm ready to mark with the templates.
  6. 2 points
    Mick, Allison, Freedhardwood's wife Vera and My wife, get a prayer sent at least once a day, but in truth, they go up everytime I think of one or the other, and that'a very often... It's not easy being without those you care most about, and I can't say it gets easier. For me it doesn't. But I send word up daily. Hang on young'un. Life finds a way, so I'm told.
  7. 2 points
    Always keeping you in my thoughts and prayers Mick, hang in there, be strong
  8. 2 points
    It was a case of tee many martoonies. And I don't use smell check, that's what Boo does.
  9. 1 point
    So, this happened today... Boy has been begging to go fishing for a while, so I finally took a vacation day, and we went to a quiet lake in the Natchez Trace state park. Caught several red-eared sunfish, one largemouth bass, 3 striped somethings I don't recognize, and one blue catfish. Any day a fish is caught is a good day of fishing. And any day fishing is better than a day at work.
  10. 1 point
    There are a lot of homes being built in my area and most contractors will allow you to pick up wood from their scrap piles. Most often this is 2x4's with lots of nails in them. I carefully remove the nails, I also used a Small Handheld Metal Detector (similar to https://www.amazon.com/BRELLAA-Handheld-Adjustable-Sensitivity-Vibration/dp/B07PV363BJ/ref=sr_1_17_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=metal+wand+dec&qid=1594399463&sr=8-17-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzQ05FWklWM1A1QldGJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzczODI3MzM2NzNXR1dKSDQyQyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDUyNzg3MUVOTUNFNkUxTDVJRiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= the current price is MUCH lower than I paid several years ago) to ensure there was no hidden nails. I then planed the two wide sides and trimmed off the two smaller sides on the tablesaw. Yes I realize that some of the boards are warped and I should have done a better job but it will all work out. I cut what I knew would be more than enough wood. The pieces are about 70" long The next image shows how much dust the tablesaw generated on top of the saw. This should be eliminated when I implement a blade collection. Compared to what I had before enclosing the TS this is almost nothing. I then cut all the boards I needed for the chair. Each piece is a bit longer at this time. I'm using a cut list that I have modified to show the sizes of each piece at 100% and 75%. With a felt pen I marked the ends of all boards, also note that I have marked for the 3 degree cut. Obviously my marking is not the correct angle, I just need to ensure I cut the board on the correct side at the correct angle. Initial glue-up to match the cut list, at this time the width is NOT correct, this will come later. Using my digital angle tool I set the TS blade to 3 degrees. Double check the angle on the seat boards. Here is where I noticed that the boards were NOT wide enough, just a bit off, OH DARN. I cut three boards to length and then ripped 5 one inch pieces and glued them to each seat board. I'm now ready to cut the seat boards with the 3 degree angle. FYI - so how is the G700 doing after all that planing and cutting? First I noticed that the intake port on the G700 was almost 100% blocked. When I cut the narrow edge off of the 2x4 sometimes a VERY thin strip was cut. Sometimes the thin strip broke into short pieces and were sucked down past the blade and were stopped by the safety grid on the G700 intake port. I can remove the grid but this introduces a safety hazard. With the grid removed it would be possible for someone to extend their hand into the port and into the impeller. I've never done this and imagine it would hurt a bunch. Because the G700 is new to me and I'm still trying to decide if it is the correct unit for me, I will NOT remove the grid at this time. When I was making the last cuts I noticed that the pitch of the G700 had changed, this was due to the blockage. When I looked at the front of the G700 (it was still running) I noticed that the bin full light would sometimes come on. If the bin is full the G700 will automatically turn off. I opened the bin and noticed that both bins were almost full. Here is a close-up of the large bin and small bin I was surprised to see the large chips in the small bin. Per the write-up, the large dust should be collected in the large bin and only the fine stuff should be in the small bin (this is my understanding). Now that the glue has dried on the seat pieces I can now cut the 3 degree angle. Later...
  11. 1 point
    Watching Rockler's video, I was never really impressed with the old still that he shows in the beginning but I can picture some good uses for the Rockler model. It looks like a real quality unit. I might be putting this on the list. If they changed the blue anodized aluminum to red they could double the price.
  12. 1 point
    OK here goes... This will be a combination of post because I'm working on several different things that weave together. I will first build a chair out of scrap 2x4. As I said, I hope to make all of my mistakes with it. I'm still working on the G700 setup and I have finished what I will call phase one. Because the shop is in such a state of flux I decided to run a 20' flex pipe. This was purchased from Rocker several years ago and I had never used it. I connected the two sections with a coupler, attached one end to the G700 and the other end has been connected to my DeWalt DW746X tablesaw and my Hammer A3-31 planer/jointer (NOTE I'm only connecting to one machine at any time for now, thus I'm moving the hose from one machine to the other). First I had enclosed the tablesaw, the image of the tablesaw does not show all of the sealing I did. Partly because I'm anal at times (this was one of those times) most likely I went overboard. This took me a few days partly because of health, some days I can work several hours and other days I only last a few minutes. I've completed the sealing except for the tilt opens, yesterday I received some magnetic sheets I had ordered. Hopefully today I will finish. Currently, I do NOT have any collection above the blade and it is needed. When I connect the G700 to the saw it does a super job of collecting MOST of the dust. The only thing I see is what comes from the blade. I'm not sure just when I will tackle this, I have to think about the solution I want to implement and thinking is hard. The A3-31 presented another issue in that the port was not a standard US size and the only solution seemed to be placing an order with Felder (Hammer) for a fitting. This was going to be VERY expensive so I decided to make a custom fitting. I remeasured the port on the A3-31 (4.765"). I went to Lowes and purchased various a section of PVC in different sizes. I purchased several different sizes because I was going to make custom fittings for several different tools. Ops, I don't know how to get the images inline with the text. I need to glue-up some 2x6's to make a jig. In the image of the jigs, the one on the left was for a custom fitting on my bandsaw, the one on the right was for the A3-31. These were turned on my wood lathe. I tuned a recess in the top of the jig (see the image of both jigs) so I could insert the jaws of my chuck. I was then able to turn the other end to reduce the fitting. NOTE: It may be possible to expand the pipe without a jig "if" is a small amount. I tried but failed, possibly because I did not get the pipe hot enough, later I will experiment more with this. Using a heat gun (I had a dual setting heat gun that I purchased from Ace Hardware several years ago), wearing gloves (a this is going to get HOT), continuously rotate the pipe and apply heat. At some point you will see the PVC starting to constrict, test the flexibility and when it easily flexes turn off the heat gun, push the fitting onto the jig (NOTE I discovered that it is best to securely clamp the jig in a vice) and let it cool. Now it was time for a test fit, looks GOOD! After the pipe cooled (if you remove the fitting before it cools the shape will change as it further cools), I repeated the preceding for the end I needed to reduce. Again let it cool. Now it was time to connect everything. At this time I was happy but did notice that the fitting I made was a bit loose when I put it on the A3-31 port. I disconnected the fitting, reheated the expanded end (this is the end that goes on the A3-31), when it started to constrict and was flexible I pushed it on the A3-31 fitting and let it cool. Now I had a very tight fit, perfect!
  13. 1 point
    The more surface connections and pocket hole screws, the better but, I understand that weight is a consideration.
  14. 1 point
    I typed mine about the same time as @krtwood and didn’t see his response until after I hit send. His suggestion would also be a good consideration, especially if materials is a concern.
  15. 1 point
    Coop and others probably have much more insight into this stuff, but if you were to add a back panel to the bottom cabinet I think the rigidity would increase tremendously and your pocket hole count would be fine. However if the design and aesthetics are locked in then like the others said definitely get some sort apron(s) pretty close to the bottom to help keep it together. Pocket holes have worked great for the projects I've used them. Especially paired with good ole Titebond II.
  16. 1 point
    My father and I were recently able to pick up a couple rolls of rubber gym flooring from a school surplus auction that we put down in his garage shop which has concrete floors. It appears to help him work quite a bit longer in the shop w/o getting fatigued or having issues with his feet. I've taken a couple squares and set them in front of my bench (unfortunately have to share the garage with the fiancé's car, real shame I know) and its worked out pretty well. Clean up of dust and chips is pretty easy with the shop vac.
  17. 1 point
    Thanks for the kind words. Doing these rockers are a real pleasure, hope you experience that in your build. Would love to see pics of your project too. Project journals are my favorite part of this forum and I've become a better woodworker by posting my work!
  18. 1 point
    My floor is epoxy coated and a large portion also has the same rubber tiles @Chet linked above. The epoxy makes sweeping up a breeze and the rubber tiles allow me to work out there for extended periods with out getting a sore back especially at the benches. FWIW the tiles actually sweep up better than I would have thought too.
  19. 1 point
    You could try storing your hand tools in a box or closed cabinet and putting a vapor emitter rust preventative in there with them. https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/workshop/tool-maintenance/59367-anti-corrosion-emitters
  20. 1 point
    I have had these 8mm strong rubber tile down for over a year and wish I had done it years ago. I can work in the shop all day and not feel wore out. You can get it in locking tiles or custom cut rolls.
  21. 1 point
    My workspace was formerly in my garage, with a concrete floor. It is a KILLER on the lower back. I suggest you look at the "horse stall" mats sold at Tractor Supply Co. Firm enough that most caster-mounted machines can still roll without bogging, they offer a thick, tough surface that is pleasant to stand on for hours on end. Dropped tools are well protected, too. About $1.95 per square foot. There are companies that offer a similar product with interlocking edges, but the price rises accordingly.
  22. 1 point
    @jgt1942, please post pics! We love see one another's work in progress. A project journal for those chairs would be wonderful.
  23. 1 point
    Thanks for this. I will let my dad know. It is good to know that may be normal. This park is like no other. It is far from home, but I will consider it any time I am close in the future.
  24. 1 point
    Put a price on it and list it in the marketplace section.
  25. 1 point
    Hello Fellow Woodworkers! My name is Luke, I’m 28 and about a year ago my father got me hooked on this amazing little hobby. Since then I’ve built a few picture frames, some boxes, and a living room set consisting of a TV stand, end table, and coffee table. The most recent project under my belt was refinishing the hardwood floors in my new home. I know this forum is going to be inspirational and easily the first place I’ll be heading to for advice in my future woodworking adventures. So thank you in advance for all your knowledge and advice! Cheers! Luke
  26. 1 point
    I'm in South Carolina and before I was able to have a minisplit in the shop I ran a dehumidifier. A small dehumidifier unit can lower the humidity enough to make a big difference for your tools and comfort in the humid months. The only issues I have ever had involve trapped moisture. Green wood, sawdust, or shavings left on surfaces will begin to rust in less than an hour. Dry materials, not just wood, may trap moisture or condensation. This is what works for me. 1. Clean ferrous tools and surfaces and don't leave anything on surfaces. Wipe down after use. 2. Apply a protectant. Paste wax, boshield, etc. 3. Check often for any sign of rust forming.
  27. 1 point
    if you do not find it an inconvenience by storing them in your basement i think that would be your best option. depending on how much you use your tools you might want to consider building a hand tool cabinet or tool box to store them in with moisture absorbents. this is really a personal preference and since it is only temporary you should not need to worry about deep rust and pitting in the cast iron of the planes.
  28. 1 point
    Welcome Luke. I’m from Iowa also and don’t have much of a problem, I do keep a good coat of wax on all steel surfaces but other than that no problem
  29. 1 point
    I should have warned you @tomy josif, That everyone has their own way to get to the sharpness that they use and need. You'll get a dozen or more ways to sharpen your tools. What it boils down to, is simple. Start with one set of stones any brand you want. get a guide and practice, practice and then practice. If after doing all that you're not satisfied, try adding a stone or a different guide. There is no one way to reach sharp. There are many. You can get sharp on a concrete block, but you'll be much older when you get it sharp. Listen to all the choices posed here then settle on one and work at it. You'll find what works for you. And I agree with @wtnhighlander, , a strop is probably the best way once you reach sharp, to add that little touch that takes it over the top., That to takes practice. Go to Peter Sellers youtube sites and he'll head you in the right direction. he's a frehander, but you don't have to be, you can use a guide.