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  1. 9 points
    I always tell myself this will be the project where I start a journal before the thing is done. I did post some progress shots of this one on the facebook guild group if anyone is following along over there. I decided to make one of these traditional shaker step stools as a challenge and to put some of the walnut wood I purchased to work. I decided to incorporate the both the dark heartwood and some of the sapwood. I know that is not for everyone, but I like how it turned out. First, I started with my dovetails. I challenged myself to using my western style Veritas saw on these, and I may have completely flipped. I thought I was pull saw all the way, but now I'm learning western saw. Tails first for me. Thanks to @derekcohen for the blue tape method (albeit yellow tape in this case). The color contrast made hitting the lines much easier. Three tails on each step. Next time around I may attempt the super skinny pins, but these are fine for now. Next, adding the tails and the back stretcher? Time for a quick test sit. Now, insanely, I forgot to cut the little half circles until after I'd glued it. I kept leaving them off thinking I would get the joinery solved first.... whoops! In the end, not that big of a deal. A 6" hole saw left a very workable edge with minimal blow out, as I clamped the sides between some scrap. And the finished product:
  2. 8 points
    well like many people my shop is my garage and is completely unheated. its cold in there in the middle of the winter but the last few weekends have been warm. this weekend it was up in the 50s. that's downright tropical for Illinois in February. I have been in there trying to get it cleaned up so that I can make something as soon as it is comfortable. in the mean time to keep from going crazy and start chewing on my leg from cabin fever I have been painting again. never painted with water color till this year and haven't painted in years. but boredom and feeling restless made me pick up a brush again. I thought I would post a few of the painting that I have done and hopeful it inspires someone to try something new.
  3. 8 points
    Seat carving process has started and it is going a LOT faster than I thought it would. I was able to get the first seat done in 4 hours and that wasn't overlapping glue drying time. If I do other operations while glue is drying I could easily get that down further but I won't bother timing it because it doesn't really matter. First step is to select material. I had some nice 10" wide boards from my order of 6/4 Cherry. I figured I'd use 2 pieces to make the seat. In order to do the pre-sculpting though that board gets hacked into parts to be glued back together. Spoiler the grain turned out quite nice despite cutting and gluing back together. I'll be able to spot the glue seams but an average observer probably won't look close enough. In the picture above the center of the board is missing. The pre-sculpting works best of the center of the seat is a board about 4" wide. This sets up the pommel area, as well as the main seat area. To make the 4" center I took 2" off of each board, jointed and glued them together to make a 4" board. To start of the pre sculpting and ensure the chairs end up roughly similar, i made a template with index marks to make sure that the profile is accuraly placed on the center board of each chair. The profile is then cut on the band saw. To set the pomel area I needed to cut an angle. I didn't want to tilt my band saw table to do this as that would be a hassle as I use the glue up time to back out the milling for the next seat. Also this doesn't allow the wood to sit long in a partially milled state which may cause movement I don't want. The angle was achieved by setting my fence at 2_1/8" and using a 1" spacer. After the center board is pre-sculpted, I align all the boards and draw on the outline of the sculpted area with my template (the picture is old and the template needed to be cut yet.) Because of the curve on the backside you have to be careful with the profile of the pre-sculpting. It's possible to cut into an area that should be left. The boards just to the sides of center are the main boards that your legs sit over so they are recessed 1/4" from the pomel and sides of the chair. It's kinda hard to see below. The seat area I think is about 5/8" which leaves around 3/4" under your rear. The outside boards are the most complicated to pre-sculpt. It's not really easy to do it on the band saw as you can't do a through cut so there are some weird compound angles and well it's easier to just do as @Bmac instructs and take the outside pieces to your bench and sculpt them with your sander/grinder. This is a step that Mar doesn't do in his rocker videos and it's immensly helpful as you have more room around the part to maneuver your tool to get the perfect shape. I also use a very high tech measuring device to set an offset from the outside line. This tells me about where I want the curved side to stop. I remove the bulk inside the line and then setting the grinder on the angle blend from my rule of thumb line to the outside line. This has helped prevent me from trying to make the sides too steep which doesn't work very well and isn't very comfortable. The outside part after pre-sculpting, next to it is an untoched piece. After this point the seat is ready to be clued together and shaped. With all the pre-sculpting there isn't a lot to be done. Really it's just even everything up. This is why pre-sculpting seems like the cheat code to do this. After I use the RAS with 24 grit paper I go over the seat with a goose neck scraper. This is where I deviate from others. I know Bmac uses 50 grit and the moves into the RO90, while I don't have the RO90 and every time i went to buy it I had a really hard time pulling the trigger. I did one of my trials with the goose neck scraper and found it was an excellent way to get between 24 grit and 80 grit with an interface pad. It may be hard to see in the picture above but after sculpting there are some high spots and some deeper scratches. Trying to level all this out with sanders left a surface that felt like it undulated a lot to me. When i used the scraper I was able to remove those high spots and the surface felt far more uniform. Both were smooth it's more the difference between laser flat and slightly scalloped. The scraper did not leave a perfectly clean surface though. With the changing grain directions there was some tear out and other issues. Goose neck scrapers and difficult to sharpen and get tuned up well so that doesn't help either. So I started sanding at 80 grit on my 125mm sander with the foam interface pad. This generally goes well. but the sander is VERY under powered so care has to be taken to not stall the RO movement. After 80 grit i jump to 120 grit on my 150mm sander with a foam interface pad. Using the 2 sanders back to back it's very apparent that the 125 ets needs more power. Due to the curved surface the 150 nearly jumped out of my hand numerous times. I ended up turning it down from 6 to 4 as i found it almost unwieldy at full power. After 150 is 180 than 220. Next up is finishing touches and round over to the seats then finishing and mounting. The end is near. My goal is to eat dinner Friday on one of these chairs fully finished. If I don't meet my goal so be it but it's my goal.
  4. 7 points
    OK, I promised to do a journal on this, after "teasing" it in another thread. I finally got started, and am now proceeding along at my typically glacial pace. First, material acquisition. I tried a new supplier, as they are open Saturdays, which let me avoid missing work. The prices were decent, but there are a couple of drawbacks. The place is NOT a sawmill, but a "Value Added Reseller". They buy wood from guys like @Spanky and do some sort of processing to it. All their stock was S3S. I prefer rough 4/4, because my work pace means the wood has time to move between milling and assembly. If I start with rough, I have more materials to play with in case a second milling becomes necessary. Also, I had to plane it all anyway, because the thickness was not consistent. Ownership of the place in in transition. As a result, no replenishment of stock has been done for a little while. I had to scrape the bottom of the proverbial barrel to find enough cherry with color. At least there was plenty of oak. The design of the table top calls for two layers, the upper of red oak, and the lower of cherry. To account for contrary wood movement, the disks will be attached only with screws in elongated holes. The grain will be aligned so that expansion and contraction occurs in the same direction, which should minimize the seasonal differences in disk size and shape. The cherry disk is slightly larger in diameter to create a contrasting rim for the oak. As experiment, I tried two methods for cutting the disk. On the oak, I used a jigsaw to rough out the circle, following up with spokeshave and block plane to reach the line. (ignore the background clutter. I'm STILL transitioning into the new space!) This went pretty well. But since I just HAD to try a different technique, I went with a trammel-type circle cutting jig an a router on the cherry disk: I think I'll go back to my spokeshave. Aside from being annoyingly loud, and incredibly messy, the router setup was no faster, filled the room with smoke of scorched cherry each time I paused to reposition myself, and had a far greater potential to go sideways if the jig happened to slip. My router has no dust collection port, obviously: Now I have two concentric disks, still a little larger than intended, just in case. If smoothing and edge profiles go without a hitch, I doubt the client will argue about getting an extra inch of diameter. Next step is to smooth the disks and create the support structure underneath.
  5. 7 points
    While the others were pointing their cameras at a rushing stream I found a fork in the road and was pointing my lens at the ground.
  6. 7 points
    Following hot on the heels of the last post, where we created the male or tail section of the tapered sliding dovetail, now comes the female or pin socket to house the base for the legs. These are the bases. This post will focus on the socket for the one closest the camera. The base is positioned exactly 3 1/4" from the side. The tapered side is on the inside, with the outside face square to the front and rear of the case ... This process is essentially the same as transferring marks from the tail- to the pin board with drawers. The base tapers towards the toe, that is, the sliding dovetail will tighten up as the base is pushed into the socket. The first step is to register the far end of the base in such a way that the position is repeatable. This is done by placing a long board along the "square" side. The position for the end of the board is marked ... Now the base can be stood up to mark inside the tail with a scratch awl. You can make out the mark aligning the baseline of the tail ... Look carefully for the dots. This is repeated at the other end. The dots are now joined up ... The plan is to saw the socket sides, as if sawing dovetails in a drawer. The angle ratio is 1:6, as it was with the base. Since the socket is blind or stopped, the saw needs to have space in which to begin the cut. An area at the toe is excavated with a router. The depth of the cut is set using a 7.0mm drill bit. I am aware that the actual depth is 7.5mm, but this will be a second pass. I intend to clear the waste with the router - this Jarrah is bloody hard, and I am not a masochist! Using an angled saw guide, the end is chopped to the line .. Now this is space to register the azebiki saw ... I have roughly marked a depth to aim for ... Both sides have been sawn ... The waste is removed with the router, leaving a few mm close to the sides ... This is chopped away with a chisel in two passes, and then cleaned up with a hand router ... The side rebate #79/dovetail plane is used to clean any rough sections .. The power router drops a 0.5mm to 7.5mm and this is cleaned up ... Amazingly, the base slides in and tightens up about 1/4" from the end. It will need a tap to be fully secure. That's it for now. Regards from Perth Derek
  7. 5 points
    I shoot various guns at my local club. (I hunt with a bow. More challenging) I’ve recently got into pistol shooting, and it’s not uncommon to go through 100 rounds in a visit. I’ve been shooting reloads made by a friend I shoot with. These come in a variety of old 50 round boxes or plastic bins. I thought I'd build something a little more classy to hold 100 rounds for a day’s shooting. This first one was made with reclaimed scrap mahogany from a messed up re-saw job from a project a couple months ago. I built a sled to put them through the planer and ended up with 3/16” boards. From there, dimensions were built around the ammo, 9MM Luger rounds. Consequently, when all was done there’s a lot of odd sizes. If I build more, I’ll tune it up to easier dimensions. A couple people on the FB group expressed interest in building the same, so I reverse engineered it and made a CAD drawing which I was happy to share.
  8. 5 points
    The legs are on. I must admit to mixed feelings at this stage. This is not my style of leg, but it is what my niece wants. Perhaps I will feel differently with a finish on the wood. The tenons were kerfed for a wedge ... Installed in the bases ... And glued into the socket. Note that only the first third is glued. The rear is free to move ... The bases have been shaped to reduce their impact ... The legs were evened up .. Side view from underneath (one does not see the base otherwise) ... Regards from Perth Derek
  9. 5 points
    I finally got around to loading some trap shells for the Beretta, which is the first time I’ve loaded shotgun shells in ages! But the dovetail/wedge idea worked like a champ once I mounted my little Mec600 on it. So far I’ve only loaded 200 of the 5-600 hulls I've had laying around forever, but that’s enough to go shooting this weekend - finally. A little illustration of the setup... I’m using components I bought over 10 years ago so to me it seems like free stuff That jug of Red Dot has a price on it of about $46 of that gives you any indication of its era. The wads and lead are as old. The primers are pretty new, bought sometime during the Obama administration
  10. 5 points
    An hour of that I used to shower and eat. Another hour when to getting trapped in some youtube videos. Luckily today is a new day and I left work after only 10 hours of slaving behind my computer. I was able to get the remaining chairs together tonight. It didn't take more than 45 min or so to hit the last 2 chairs worth of parts with my #4 sanders and then glue the chairs together. I brought them up stairs and positioned them around the table to get an idea of what they will look like. I think I'm gonna like these chairs quite a lot. Getting finish on them is going to bring out a word of character. I also inherited 4 dining chairs from my grandmother. She asked me a while back If i wanted the chairs and not knowing much about them said yes. I knew I was only going to make 6 chairs for a table that potentially could seat 10. I didn't really know what to expect but was presently surprised when I picked them up. She told me that they were her grandmothers and estimated their age around 100 years but that was a guess. There are no makers mark on the chairs so they could have been locally made but who knows. The thing that i really like about the chairs is how delicate they look. The legs are very thin and have some nice subtle details. The downside is they were stripped and refinished, not a bad thing, but when doing so they glue let loose. When the refinisher put them back together they were not very careful removing squeeze out around some of the joints. They stayed on the safe side of just not removing it at all....
  11. 5 points
    That came out real nice Isaac. What a cutie in the test sit picture. By the way I hate to be the one to inform you, but that saw in the forth picture isn't a Veritas Western Style Saw. But hey if you cut those dovetails with that saw who am I to criticize.
  12. 5 points
    On the sidewalk in front of a local redneck bar...
  13. 5 points
    Last weekend i had a fishing outing with some friends. This past week was completely occupied by wedding planning and meetings with people that want a lot of my money no new band saw this year well maybe . Megan has probably gotten sick of me saying "Bah! I'm never going to get those chairs done." So she let me have all weekend in the shop Starting Saturday. The last two days have meant a good amount of progress on the chairs. I started off getting all the side rails cut to length. The side rails have a 5 degree angle cut on them which gives the seat a taper from 17" at the front to 14" at the rear. This really helps the look of the chair but makes planning the side rails a bit more difficult. After I had them all cut to length I cut joinery in the side rails. Above the side rails aren't ripped to final width. I didn't bother getting the exact width as I knew i'd have to route out the shape on my side rail routing sled. This is the same method that I used for the back legs so I didn't bother taking pictures of it. It's as simple as rough cutting at the band saw and then clamping the piece in place and running it across a template bit. The joiner has space in the center for a reason. I wanted the back rail joinery to squeeze between the joinery for the side rails. The joint of the side rails to both the front and rear leg are the most important to get right on a chair. These are the joints that get stressed the most when a person puts the chair on 2 legs. Now i'm one of those awful people so i have to design these chairs to at least withstand me. This picture shows some of that joiner interference. The floating tenons that are going into the front and rear legs from the sides are 1.25" wide and 2" long. This is a smaller tenon than what I used in my prototype #3 and I've been balancing that thing on it's rear legs every day for the last month. I really want to see how well the joinery is going to last. In the last month we've also had some cold snaps that have fluctuated the relative humidity in the house 15% so I'm pretty confidant this joinery will last. If it doesn't my shop isn't far away. After cutting joinery on the side rails and the rear legs it is time to mill the front legs and get joinery cut in them. While doing this i managed to $#)@ up one of the legs multiple times. Not once or twice, THREE times I put the mortise in the wrong location.... Luckily it was all in a position where the side rail would cover it up so I just filled the mortise with some floating tenon stock and tried again. The integrity of the joint should be good enough. I'm not really too concerned about this location on the front leg. After getting the side joinery cut it was time to dry fit the sides and measure for the front rail. I wasn't sure how well I built the chairs so I made sure to dry assemble each chair to check the front rail spacing. Turns out I was pretty dang good. 4 Chairs were 14_7/8" 1 chair was 14_3/4" the final chair was 15". With the complexity of the back I'm glad i built the chair from the back forward opposed to from the front back like Marc did in the guild series. I also have ZERO idea why he used screws on the head rest... it was very easy to assemble the chair in this manner and avoid using screws and plugs. After I got the front rails milled and cut to length it was time to template route them. This was done the same was as all the other template routing operations. Rough cut band saw and then router table. With the front rails done I'm officially done with template routing on this project!!!! Making the sleds with the toggle clamps was the best thing I ever did. The template routing went FAST and easy. There was a lot of alternating grain which lead to a few tricky situations. The sleds gave me the confidence to do a LOT of climb cutting. I'd say 50% of my time at the router table I was doing a climb cut so I didn't blow out grain. Some may think that it's dangerous and I was doing it wrong but I never once had an issue with it. I also had zero grain blow out. Here is a picture of all my template sleds. Ok so front rail joinery is going to be difficult. I don't want the side rail joinery to interfere with the front rail joinery. This leaves me little space so To make the joint hopefully strong enough I opted to go for a wide floating tenon. The tenon is about 2.5" wide but only 10mm deep. I think a picture will help this make the most sense. Here is the side rail joinery. The floating tenons for the side will go in first and then the front tenon will go in next. Yep i use metric and imperial on the same project many times. All of my rails are inset 3mm. I could give a leap what the unit is I just use what is in front of me and honestly despite what everyone argues both systems work and have their place though I MUCH prefer fractions as half of 7/13 is really easy to compute (I'm using prime numbers to give a good example as 7/13 is not an even decimal but 7/26 is exactly half and is fast and easy to compute). Also rulers with 64's are easy to read but half decimals of mm doesn't really make sense and they are hard to read. Even MM get hard to read on a ruler as the ticks are kinda small but it's difficult to differentiate between 2 and 3 as well as 7 and 8 mm, well at least it is for me. Ok now that I've lost everyone, I've got the joinery all figured out. So now it's just to throw a round over on all the parts. I did the 1/16" that I did on the rear legs. After the round over was complete I took out my sanding blocks. We've gout #4 (50 degree) and #4 (45 degree). I typically only use the 45 degree grit but sometimes there is a nasty bit here and there and the 50 degree git cleans things up a bit nicer. It's easier to have 2 smoothing plains .... eerrrr sanding blocks, than adjusting the depth of cut on one. The extra 5 degrees on the LN frog does help a LOT. Running the 2 side by side it's painfully obvious. So having 2 i set the Stanley to a bit heavier of a cut to make things go a bit faster and then follow behind it with the LN. It's 2 swipes to finish ready maybe 3. Also BD planes are far superior in every way to BU planes (this is just trolling). I got the first chair in the clamps. Glue up took a bit longer than I wanted it to but was uneventful.
  14. 4 points
    It's time for the drawers. Once again there is a challenge. The design calls for drawer fronts that stretch across the front without being broken by drawer dividers. In other words, "lipped drawers". There are two ways to do this. The easy way is to used "planted fronts", that is, attached fronts to the front of a box ... The hard way is to make the drawer front a single piece. This requires rebating the drawer front and forming a half blind dovetail in the side of the rebate. Courtesy of Christian Becksvoort ... I've chosen the high road (sigh). Today I spent my time preparing for three drawers. Why three and not two, as in the original design? Simply because I can build them narrower, and this will make them less likely to rack. They'll end up somewhere around 280mm wide and 290mm deep. I anticipated that 375mm wide and 290mm deep would be a disaster waiting to happen. The only way drawers that dimension could work is on runners, which I do not do. The wood for the drawer front is more Fiddleback Jarrah (by request), while the remainder of the drawer is quarter sawn Tasmanian Oak (which is actually a Eucalyptus, and is quite unstable unless quarter sawn. I keep a stock for drawers). It is a lot like US White Oak in appearance and hardness. I have a bunch of narrower boards, which I re-sawed to make 7mm thick drawer sides, and glued together two to get the height needed ... No clamps, just blue painter's tape, which is stretched across. It pulls the edges together. This is enough for 4 drawer sides (one spare) ... The drawer bottoms will be 1/4" (6.35mm) thick ..... I cannot go metric here as my plough blade is imperial .... this is re-sawn from a wide board, which saves some effort as only two boards are needed for the bottoms (the grain runs across the drawer) ... Same trick with the blue tape, and cauls are also added to keep it flat. This will be sawn up at the time it is needed, and the panel will remain in the cauls until thn. The narrow drawer sides necessitate using drawer slips, which is a strip added to the sides with a groove for the drawer bottom. This also adds extra width as a runner. The slips are made with a plough plane. In this case, I used both a Veritas Small Plow (to plough the groove) and the Veritas Combination Plow (to plough a bead - the bead lies at the join of the slip and drawer bottom). Setting up both save time switching set ups back and forth, and once begun, making these slips was a quick process ... First plough the bead ... A tip on how to avoid over-planing the bead. This comes from David Charlesworth. Scribble pencil along the top of the bead, and when it is gone, the bead is complete ... Now flip the board around to plane the groove ... The first line is where the groove begins, which is 3mm below the bead. There will follow a 1/4" groove, and there will be 4mm below this to support the groove/drawer bottom. This makes the slip a smidgeon over 12mm high. It is 10mm deep, which allows for a 5mm deep groove. As mentioned, once set up, no further marking is necessary. Just plane ... ... and then rip off the slip on the table saw. This is a mock up: the bead at the top and the groove on the side ... I have a strategy to fit the drawer fronts, so that the edges align with each other. It is all about accurate marking out. This will hinge on getting the opening exact, and transferring the respective measurements to their drawer fronts. First order of the day was to fit (what will become) drawer backs to the front between the drawer dividers. This is what the result looked like ... The table saw can cross cut really close, but only a shooting board will get the final dimension ... On to the all-important drawer fronts! I was heartened that all the verticals were indeed vertical still ... well, except for one (if you look carefully, you will see light in the top half) ... This meant a slight adjustment of that side .. again a job for the shooting board. Set one, mark the angle with a small sliding bevel ... ... transfer this to the side of the board, and head for the shooting board. As the side is no longer square, a shim is used to create the needed angle ... A good result ... This is the join I need to manage ... These are the fronts fitted in sequence ... And here were are now, waiting for the next build day ... Regards from Perth Derek
  15. 4 points
    I’ll pull the quilt off of my wife for some!
  16. 4 points
    One of my better shots from the Sunday shoot with my large format crew
  17. 4 points
    Mark, you recall that this table will be a wedding present? Well, the groom’s father is a woodworker as keen as you and I, and very knowledgeable . No doubt he and I will at some stage be discussing the build in some detail. Regards from Perth Derek
  18. 4 points
    Hi Coop That is a straight edge/guide I made for sawing sliding dovetails. It is made from Jarrah, with one square and one angled (1:6) side ... The underside has non-slip made from 240 grit sandpaper ... These photos were taken before I inserted a series of rare earth magnets along each side, which will pull a saw blade against the side. In addition to chopping at 1:6 (9.5 degrees) .. ... sawing sliding dovetails or dados ... ... it can be used on the square side to plane through dados with a HNT Gordon dado plane ... ... or at an angle to plane the female socket of a sliding dovetail (with a plane I made for this task) ... The two planes here ... It's a useful item. Regards from Perth Derek
  19. 4 points
    Finally made the drawer fronts. Need to cut the sides; I think I can use the resaw leftovers for the drawer backs. It’s not perfectly square but the next one will be better The right side has no drawer or door as she wants it that way. Simpler for me
  20. 4 points
    Dang, Duck - that is a splendid idea! Let's all nag Drew until he does the inlay, I'd really love to see it! Maybe a dragonfly on the cattail for head of the table? A different 'easter egg' on each chair would be awesome, but I doubt Drew needs anything else to slow him down right now!
  21. 3 points
    Confucious say: Lessons of experience are always learned just after you needed them.
  22. 3 points
    The patch came out alright, could have been worse. Ended up with a slight gap along the curve on the near side. Flushed up Wiped with MS
  23. 3 points
    I love that Browing although I’ve never shot one. The Beretta was very kind to me today for the five trap rounds and i found I hadn’t really lost the skill too badly after holding off for so many years. I hit a lot more than I missed, and importantly, with that gun I nailed the very first one so ahhh... satisfying!
  24. 3 points
    Update to the cordless drill rack. Here’s how it turned out; reminds me of the Atlantic coast submarine pens on the west coast of France.......
  25. 3 points
    Spanky, I finally finished up my staircase. You might notice a little curl in that first QSWO tread.
  26. 3 points
    We had a bit of ice on the side of the road to play with too. Day was warming up fast and ice was crashing down as we shot.
  27. 3 points
    Derek, I've made tapered sliding dovetails before, but mine were through-cut. Fitting stopped sockets so that the tail tightens just as you approach the stopped end seems like sorcery!
  28. 3 points
    im loving the cat tail cut outs feel like there needs to be one easter egg on one of the chairs of a frog climbing up a leg inlayed into the wood. but that's just me like doing inlays
  29. 3 points
    As a reminder, we are building a version of this table ... The plan is to attach the legs, which were made near the start of this project. The attachment method is by inserting the legs into compound angle mortices in a base, which will be fixed to the carcase with a tapered sliding and stopped dovetail. We don't mess about here! It will be necessary to do this over two articles, the first being the base for the legs, which will be dovetailed (tails). The second will be the socket (pins) for the base. Before we begin, I want to mention what I did at the end of the last session. I had replaced the central drawer dividers as the grain ran in the wrong direction. The spacers at the ends also did so, and my response was to cut out half the spacer ... Well, I fretted over the end spacers, and just could not leave them this way. Encouraged by the way the halves had come out cleanly, I removed the remainder and replaced the spacers with correctly grained versions ... OK, onto the leg base ... I spent a while playing with angles for the legs, and finally accepted this (mocked up base) ... I have drilled angled mortices with a brace on a number of occasions. This time I decided to used a drill press and some Japanese Star-M augers, which are specially designed for this type of work (no lead screws). I built a 10 degree ramp for the resultant angle. The auger is 30mm ... [ The tenon is straight, but the mortice will receive a slight reaming, and the tenon will be glued and wedged. This is probably overkill since the weight of the case rests on the legs. These are the bases for the legs. The final prototype is at the rear ... Drilling the bases ... The design requires that the legs do not go over the boundary of the case (to avoid tripping over them) ... This is how they should be ... There was a small dilemma: The base at one side measures 3" from the end ... ... and the other side measures 1/4" further ... I could not work out how this occurred. The angles are the same. In fact, I made another set of bases, and the same error showed up again - exactly the same! So what to do? Actually, the decision was obvious after a little think - make the bases the same. What is more likely to be noticed is if the bases are different distances from the sides. No one will notice a 1/4" difference where the legs hit the ground. So be it. This is one of the bases for dovetailing ... First step is to remove a 2mm taper from one side. The taper will be on the inside of the base, with the outside parallel to the side of the case. Taper line drawn ... Easiest way to do this is with a #604 smoother .. This is the one end of the base ... .. and this is the other end ... mmmm .... 0.39 mm oversize. What to do ...? I'm kidding The dovetails will be 7mm deep. A shoulder was planed with a rebate plane ... The squareness of this rebate is important, so check ... The dovetail is now to be created, and the preparatory step is to colour the outer edge of the rebate with a sharpie. This will warn that the planing does not lower the external edge of the rebate. The dovetail is created with a modified Stanley #79 edge plane ... The fence has a 1:6 ratio wedge ... Details of this dovetail plane here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/SlidingDovetailsWithTheStanley79.html The result of planing. That is a 1:6 dovetail marker ... So what are the numbers for the taper? This will give an indication of the accuracy of the joint. One end is 44.12mm ... ... and the other is 46.46mm, which is a difference of 2.34mm. This will work - the pin socket is measured from this (in the same way as dovetails for a drawer. The reason for the 7mm depth? The case is 20mm thick. the dovetail should be about 1/3 of this thickness. I decided to take it to the depth of the rebate for the rear panel ... So, here is one of the completed bases ... And this is where it will be fitted ... Regards from Perth Derek
  30. 2 points
    Thats usually when I have my best ideas also.
  31. 2 points
    Got this done Friday/ sayer day and running great only complaint is not enough holes to bolt it to my lid
  32. 2 points
    After sulking around the house for a while, I decided to try making a patch. I’d already cut dados in the case and milled and fitted shelves (5) and done some other work on it, so I wasn’t ready to throw it in the burn pile. We’ll see how it comes out.I left it a bit oversized so I can flush it up with my #4, or maybe my new (to me) Stanley #3. I didn’t get too far into the rabbet before realizing my mistake... Patch shaped and fitted. Glued and clamped.
  33. 2 points
    Maybe you should read up on building a wooden view camera, could be a fun project.
  34. 2 points
    My usable bit collection doesn't exceed my router motor collection by much, so storage isn't that big of a problem!
  35. 2 points
    I like that! Makes for an organized day of shooting, and looks cool as well!
  36. 2 points
    I get doing that chip done it before for years never liked using it that way. Always felt uncomfortable cutting like that want to try this other way seems like I would be more comfortable. And that’s what matters is if you feel comfortable.
  37. 2 points
    A couple of the guys I was with setting up a Linhof Technika field camera.
  38. 2 points
    I live 20 minutes north of Rickey, and we're getting snow. My shop from a warm area.
  39. 2 points
    For comparisons sake, I just did 8 mortises with a plunge router using a straight 1/2" bit, 1.5" long and about .75" deep in pine and I think it took me at least 90 minutes, maybe 2 hours. Then I still had to make the tenons, round them off and finesse them to fit. It was my first time doing mortises and I already understand the appeal of a domino.
  40. 2 points
    What, you couldn't do the glue-up in the remaining 9 hours of "free time"????
  41. 2 points
    I know this is several years after your post but thought I would reply anyway. Your plane is named after the company founder John Easterly born 1822. He had a contract using prisoners at the Auburn prison in New York. (by the way under the E&R in Easterly are the initials N.Y. - I could barely see them but if you wet a cloth and rub it the initials should pop out) Johnonly made planes at Auburn from 1866 to Dec 1867. Howland then took over. Easterly name was thought to be used later by the Auburn Tool Co or Easterly shipped to Auburn under its own name. Nice find. I have a very special Easterly that I need a cutter for. The plane is unique to say the least. Good luck. Ken
  42. 2 points
    Yeah she’s the smile on my face my wife doesn’t understand
  43. 2 points
    I do have small pieces of exotics in a couple of drawers in my tablesaw outfeed table. General cutoffs go in the sort of stair-stepped cubby do-funny that you see in the right hand background of this pic. That is not going to be much of an inspiration for a portable method ;-)
  44. 2 points
    I have a 24" x 24" cart that is on wheels that I roll around my shop. Floor to top is about 29" but that is less important. I'd set the height so it can roll under your table saw extension wig or something. I have drawers on my cart and store random stuff in there but you could easily just do cubbies for shorts wood storage. If you want a bit longer storage either orient the storage vertically or make the cart bigger. I used to have my planer on it but I have since changed that. Now it's just a material cart, I put project parts on top of it when I move from machine to machine. It's a lot easier to stack 30 different pieces in an organized fashion than trying to carry them and maybe drop a few.
  45. 2 points
    believe there is a old video on the woodwisperer main page on how to do inlays
  46. 2 points
    Not in The city of Chicago. There the only way to know if the lightçs red is the flash from the red light camera in your mirror.
  47. 2 points
    Clearly there are no teenagers in your household.
  48. 2 points
    My son recently got his own apartment and did not have a kitchen table. When my wife and I went over and I looked at the space in his kitchen I “saw” this table in my head. This is the first time I have built a pedestal table and is based off others that I have seen and liked. the wood for the base is from the Water Department, they were doing a project behind where I work, and when finished they had a stack of timbers that were 10’ long and about 9” wide and 5” thick. I asked the project foreman what type of wood they were and he didn’t know but said that they were not pressure treated and I could have a few. the top was a butcher block table top used in a commercial bakery that was closing. The stretcher is a piece of Ash that was given to me a few years ago and has just been sitting against the wall in my shop. i used M & T to attach the base and table supports and used my son’s grandfather’s copper nails instead of dowels. The wedges are walnut. The table is 40” in height because my son wants to use bar stools instead of chairs for seating. i inlaid a 12” x 24” tile in the center of the table so hopefully he will put any hot pans or dishes there instead of on the butcher block so as not to burn the wood top.
  49. 2 points
    Haunched tenons come to mind on the jointery . I sure like the chair back design!
  50. 2 points
    I really like roads and driveways like that. One of the reasons we bought this house is this; Half of our driveway in the spring and the fall.