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  1. 8 points
    Finally got it off the lathe and sprayed with varnish.
  2. 7 points
    I have had these sanding blocks for about six months and I have had time to use them on a number of different projects. With ROS sanders and such now a days you don't need sanding blocks as much as in the past but when the occasion arises I am happy I have these. They hold a 1/4 sheet of sanding paper and a nice feature of this particular block is that it will hold multiple pieces, so you can cut the sheet up into fourths stake them up and clamp them all in the block at the same time. When the sand paper is worn you just tear it off and continue on with your work. They come in four colors which makes it possible to use a different color for each grit. The pad is firm so you can work close to the edge of things with out rounding the corners. I find the grip to have a nice feel to it and I think any size hand would find it comfortable. I got these at Tools for Working Wood for $21.95 each. I know you can get them at amazon and other places but I don't know if they give you the opportunity to select different colors or if you are stuck with the luck of the draw. Preppin Weapon Sanding Blocks
  3. 7 points
    The Harlequin side table will have 8 drawers. The drawer case sides and the central drawer blade are panels and run in dados or housings (depending on which side of the pond you live). Positioning of these dados is critical since any misalignment will affect the aesthetic. It goes without saying (but I shall) that the alignment also determines that the side panels will be square ... and drawers need to run against square sides. All this is done here with hand tools. Some of the finer points in getting it precise ... First of all, templates (or story sticks) are created to position the dados. There are two for each side panel: the second is 10mm longer than the first. Scoring each creates an exact 10mm dado. There is a series of templates to position all the dados. This ensures that the upper and the lower dado are position exactly the same distance from the reference wall ... A chisel wall is created for the marked outlines. This wall enables the fence to be lined up using a wide chisel ... The sidewalls are sawn with a azebiki saw. This have two curved sides, one with coarse rip teeth and the other with fine crosscut teeth. I begin with the fine teeth and use them to establish the kerf, and then switch to to the coarse teeth for speedier sawing. With a compass, I check that the kerf is parallel and to the desired width (10mm) ... The sawn side wall is now chopped away close to full depth ... This is done across the dados on one board at a time ... The waste in the centre of each dado is removed with a router plane. The dados are done at the same time to save have to reset the depth of cut (one stroke on dado #1, one on dado #2, and one on dado #3 ... then back to #1 ...) ... Keep an eye on the depth ... Fine tune the dado should theoretically be unnecessary if they were marked accurately. In practice, I find that there is usually some waste in the corners, or a slightly sloped wall. For this reason I run a side rebate plane (here a Veritas), the length of each wall. This is not held vertically, since that with remove some of the width. Instead it is run at an angle away from the side wall, as it it was undercutting the side wall ... The fit is now checked with an offcut from the side panel ... The side rebate plane can take a smidgeon off the sidewall if the fit is too tight. Some will argue that it is preferable to plane the panel instead. In this situation that is not advisable since the panel is to slide along the dado, and a tight point will impede all points of the panel. The carcase is Hard Maple, with Merbau as the secondary wood. Locally, Merbau is used for decking. It is cheap and hard, both qualities valued. But is a really brittle wood, and awful to work with. The number of splinters I have had ... and they are sharp and lodge deeply. Ugh! It can look like this ... ... and then a section breaks away ... At least it will be far inside the carcase and not be seen. A panel is made up for the interior dividers ... The pieces are fitted. Will the careful planning and neurotic execution pay off? I was holding my breath. This is a dry fit .... (sound of breathing again) Then I pulled it apart and glued up the carcase ... More after the coming weekend. Regards from Perth Derek
  4. 5 points
    This stuff showed up at my house yesterday afternoon, don't know why, it just did. I am going to keep it though.
  5. 5 points
    I've been noticing some changes in the pain over the last week or so. It doesn't seem as intense. And trust me, that's a damn good thing. I'll get some observations from my Physical Therapist this week. Being able to sit longer is a good sign. Standing hasn't improved a lot. It's tough going, but you know what they say, In order to be old, ya gotta be a tough SOB.
  6. 4 points
    Recently we bought some outdoor furniture and as a result now have cushions that need a place to be stored. I thought about the needs for a while and came up with a plan to make some storage cabinets out of redwood so they can go outside if i want them to or if they look good enough be inside. I ended up liking them and because they ended up heavier than I expected i doubt we'll be moving them in and out. The sides are pseudo frame and panel. Basically i made a frame and then to make the panels i glued slats on the backside of the frame. The boards that make the panel are not glued together but instead are a V groove shiplap. The way i glued them on with the shiplap will allow for wood movement and the V groove was added for some visual interest. I was worried about them being to plain and boring. They still are pretty plain and boring but it's not so bad. This was my first time installing a mortise butt hinge. I bought some stainless steel ones off of amazon that were marketed as marine hinges. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P7QDTSF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I figured why not the price isn't bad and they can't be that bad. After getting them i was impressed. They aren't quite to the quality that bruso has but they have very little slop and are nice and smooth. I checked with a magnet to make sure that they were stainless steel and sure enough they weren't magnetic so success! Here are some additional pictures. I made a pair of them to be placed on either side of our siding glass door that goes strait to the deck. All of this is in the background of the pictures. The Finnish i used was Outdoor Oil from General finishes. I don't really recommend it. I like the finish from The real Milk Paint Company called outdoor defense better. It's a tung oil finish that has some other goodies. Outdoor oil cures far faster though at 36 ish hours compared to 7 days. When i finished the project i emptied my DC bin. I got excited to do something hit the on button to my horror i forgot to put the dust try under the filter and the bin under the cyclone. The mess was aweful.
  7. 4 points
    This a nice miter station. I've had a few miter stations over the years and I hate to break it to you, but that chip is the least of your worries. You might want to just take a hammer to it now and get past any future emotional anguish caused by dings. LOL.
  8. 4 points
    I’m not the youngest child in this group and certainly don’t profess to be in the upper 50% of the smartest but, I’ve noticed a trend. At first there were 6 volt tools, then 8v and now, and I didn’t know it until Ross mentioned it, 80v. How long before someone realizes that there is already a 120v available and you don’t even need a battery?
  9. 4 points
    I agree with most here that the look of this chair is a little harsh, but I see more to this that the harsh angles. My eye has already started to soften it. Here's a few altered sketches I developed from the PDF plan. Here is one that was developed by making the arm rest thicker/wider, giving a better sweep to the arm and a pronounced area where your hand rests. Same outline traced from the above sketch; Here's a sketch staying within the confines of the original plan, meaning I don't need to alter the size of the parts the plan calls for, less of a pronounced sweep in the arm and no pronounced area for hand rest; I think both of these alterations of the sides are going to be simple. I like the first alteration better. Also I think rounding over the leg profile is a simple way to soften the look and shouldn't weaken the chair. As for the rest of the chair, I think the seat won't need to be altered but I'd like to soften the back rest. Perhaps for the back rest try to use thicker stock and develop a more pronounced curve. As I stated earlier I plan to post this build. I really intrigued by this construction approach.
  10. 4 points
    In the Guild build of Darell's Fremont Night Stand he shows how to build his drawer clamp. Very clever, IMO. Makes squaring the drawer nearly idiot-proof. In a nutshell, it's a horizontal platform fixed to a base that raises it up and provides clamping on 4 sides. The platform has a vertical riser that's dead-on 90 degrees. One drawer side clamps to that vertical riser, the drawer front is fitted to that, forming an L shape, then the other side is fitted forming a U shape. He then uses wedge inside the second side to push into perfect 90 degree alignment. Allows for horizontal and vertical clamping of the components. My drawer sides were within less than 1/64" front to back using it.
  11. 4 points
    I bought an 8 pound bag of cotton rags from a big box store. I emptied them into the washing machine, and added a light touch of bleach. The lint trap got full, but now I have a drawer full of soft clean white rags that really work for me.
  12. 4 points
    I use old colored t-shirts for finishing and I've never had a run problem. When I say old I mean at the point that my wife refuses to let me sleep in them. They work great and are always more comfortable than the brand new ones.
  13. 3 points
    To remind me those need sharpening...
  14. 3 points
    I'm going to call this one done. I've mounted most of the the tools that are going to live in this thing. I still have plenty of room for growth, and the front of the outer doors are still very rough. The plan is to carve some panels for those, but given that I've never done a lot of carving, I should learn to to do that first! I've been watching some of Mary May's videos, so over the next few months I'll get to it. Anyway here it is:
  15. 3 points
    Third video (of 4) is up! Tool pull out and corner door.
  16. 3 points
    I decided to take another look at the router plane I've got, before picking up the new tool (tempting as it would be). It's a Millers Falls #67, and the issue I've always had with it is the blade wouldn't stay tightly in place. On top of that, I only ever had the 1/2" spear point blade. Upon looking through the house, I realized that I had already picked up a 1/4" router plane blade from Lee Valley a couple of years ago and misplaced it. I was able to correct the issue with the blade tightness and get it working, after quickly stropping the new blade. It worked really well, so there goes my excuse to get a new tool. In case anyone else has the same issue, the problem I had with the router plane is that the blade clamp could be tightened, but as soon as it was used it came loose again. This resulted in me gouging the work piece the few times I tried it, and putting it in the back of a cabinet. What I realized is that the thumbscrew that holds the blade tight is going into a V shaped notch, but there was no taper on the end of the screw. This meant that it was usually only wedged against a single thread when tightened, and any shift of the components knocked it loose. To fix this, I filed a 45 degree chamfer on the end of the screw so it matched up with the surface it tightens against. It's not perfect, so I still have to tighten it a bit more than I'd like, but it now holds. It gives a much larger bearing surface.
  17. 3 points
    I consider a tape to be just good enough for house framing. When building furniture, I use a tape ONLY to cut rough dimensions. A machinist's rule is always used where accuracy is needed. And the guideline of always using the SAME rule or tape throughout the project minimizes accumulation of errors.
  18. 3 points
    I was out of commission for a week+ due to medical issues. In fact I'm still not supposed to be on my feet til Monday-ish but it was 70 degrees out and I was about to go nuts sitting on the couch. So I started my door. Rails and stiles panel
  19. 3 points
    Yes, the original does have a crystalline look, totally agree. Jory was talking about this piece on the first video of the build series and referred to it's sleek and crisp lines that appeals to him. He also leans heavily toward the Mid-Century Modern style we are starting to really see crop up more and more. I think Jory is more inclined to build this way based on his construction style. He needs straight edges to make his sleds that cut the correct angles for the joints. Now what I've learned from the sculptured furniture I've made is that you often need these straight edges to help make your joints, but by oversizing everything you then can sculpt the piece after it's put together. That's my very simple alteration to this plan. Excited to give it a shot as soon as I finish my current projects.
  20. 3 points
    How timely! I bought a tapering jig from Rockler a while back and needed a place for it. Next to my ts is a drum sander station on casters fashioned after one that Kev made so I mounted the jig on the side of it, in full view. This past weekend marks the second time that I looked for this jig and could not find it so I improvised, only to see it the next day. I guess, at my age, I need to do a filing system the way libraries do and refer to it when I need something.
  21. 2 points
    I started as a cabinet maker at a mid level company about two months ago. Before that, I had been trying to wrap my head around an assembly jig for cabinets. The previous job was high end very custom stuff. This job has a lot of standards, so was easy to come up with this work station.The main ideas of the workstation is to assemble cabinets on their sides, with parts within reach on the main staging area. Building them on the main staging area keeps lifting to a minimum. With a parts cart, parts are sorted by categories and accessible. Here's a video of the action: https://youtu.be/aTZRB6FSYLo
  22. 2 points
    All that time keeping the shop clean with the help of a good DC shot to hell in an instant.
  23. 2 points
    I have a set also and love 'em! They're flat and easy to change paper. Such a huge improvement over the old rubber block pads with the 3 spikes to hold the paper.
  24. 2 points
    (That picture I will never forget) To learn about handplanes check out the book by Chris Schwarz (but first check my spelling).
  25. 2 points
    @Mark J, I have test pieces that were treated almost 2 years ago, and left without protective finish. The color is a little more brown now, but still dark and even.
  26. 2 points
    Agreed with @wtnhighlander above. I use a folding rule for a lot of the measurements that are over 2' (size of my largest machinist rule) up to 4-5'. For me the tape measure is an approximate measurement that I'd expect to be within 1/8" or so, but I also only really use it at the rough layout stage. That being said, usually only a few things in a project are critical dimensions, and everything else can be relative to the other parts.
  27. 2 points
    OK, I promised a demo of the color change. First, the raw cherry, with white paper for reference: Now for the after photo:
  28. 2 points
    I actually like the built in chain tensioner on the 180 (32cc saw). I wouldn't want it on a larger saw, but that little chain strecthes out so much, when starting using a new one, that it often needs tightening between fill-ups, and the built in system lets me do it without walking back to where I left the oil/gas/file/etc. You do have to crank on the flippy handle, but I don't ever remember it slipping. I keep a 24" bar on the 036 (60cc), but it's just to keep from having to bend over as much. I'd never cut a 24" tree with it. It would do it, but would be kind of slow, and even though it's a pro saw, I don't like to work them hard. The 036 is 20 years old, and the hot rod 066 (90cc) is older than that. They both start, and run like new ones. The 90cc saw is a good size for cutting 2' stuff. The little 180 gets used the most, for grab and go small stuff, and trimming. It's just a homeowner grade saw, whereas the other two are pro saws. Pro saws are built to last running all day, every day, and are easy to work on. The homeowner saws are mostly just use till they quit, and toss. They will do a lot of work though, but I wouldn't expect one to last 20 years.
  29. 2 points
    I have a small stihl gas and I'd bet the battery powered saw is capable. The dewalt is one to stay away from there are numerous reports of the bar bot being attached to the saw well at all. It also leaves me hesitant on ALL of the toolless bar chainsaws. With the dewalt being #2 it leavse me wondering the accuracy of that review and if they even pushed the saws at all. My trouble with the battery powered saws is they are freggin expensive. For something that is going to get little use i have good luck with 2 smoke engines and would be hard pressed to jump into the expensive world of batteries. Getting a cheap $75 saw and draining the gas tank and running it out of gas after every use would leave it lasting a LONG time. Even if it only lasts 4 years money wise your going to be ahead. Batteries need maintenance as well primarily to be kept charged so they don't drop down too far. It's not a huge concern but still is a thing. I'd probably only get a battery saw if it used batteries that already fit into my cordless tools.
  30. 2 points
    No pics, but progress is slowly continuing. Installed drawers with center mount slides, as the skinny drawer boxes left no room for side mounts. They work well enough, but allow the drawer to rock, side to side. I installed hard maple wear strips on either side of each box, now I'm tweaking them with shims to temove the rocking while still letting the drawer work smoothly. Tedious. On a better note, treating the cherry "butcher block" top with sodium hydroxide is bringing the color out wonderfully. Tried a variation in the process. After sanding to 180, I applied the sodium hydroxide / dihydrogen monoxide* solution to begin coloring and raise the grain together. Repeated for 220 and 320, the surface is buttery smooth, and the color penetrates well enough that light scratches don't reveal the salmon pink of raw cherry. I'll post before and after shots when its all done. * a.k.a. Drano & water
  31. 2 points
    I made a couple of projects with eucalyptus, my tool chest and more recently a bedside table. It's on the soft side, very easy to work with power and hand tools, just be careful with the splinters.
  32. 2 points
    It works surprisingly well, at least in my single garage shop. I only use the main garage door and it still gets most of the dust out. I usually vacuum or sweep up the bulk of it, then use the leaf blower (starting from the back, away from the door) and blow the dust off everything and move it in the general direction of the exit. I mostly do it because it's way less work than getting up and cleaning it all up close.
  33. 2 points
    Vacuum the shop? Heck, I even vacuum the vacuum. In which case I literally become a vacuum cleaner.
  34. 2 points
    Mark J said it, the pith is the problem. Not only is the pith very unstable, you often get radial cracking, very similar to what you are showing. As the wood dries it shrinks, as it shrinks the circumference shrinks more than the radius and cracks can form because of the stress this induces. Another way to look at it is the crack decreases the stress of the shrinking circumference, you could say the crack shortens the circumference to deal with the stress. This is why cookies/discs of wood crack. You can avoid alot of these problems with piths if you cut in quarters or halves the log you are milling.
  35. 2 points
    Each piece that you have there contains the pith, i.e. the very center of the tree. This part of the tree experiences the greatest (or is it the least?) dimensional change with drying. This results in a big stress and hence the big cracks.
  36. 2 points
    Dang, I could have sworn I type EDGE grain....
  37. 2 points
    I've used colored cotton cloth and never had the color run. If the t-shirts they are coming from are well used the excess dye should be well washed out. If it's new t-shirt material that hasn't been washed that may be a different story.
  38. 2 points
    Progress! I've applied finish (ARS) and mounted the doors. The doors aren't perfect by any means. I screwed up when gluing up the outer doors. I didn't follow Matt's advice to use the main cabinet as a template for gluing the doors to ensure consistent geometry. I simply forgot to do it in my rush to get them glued up. The end result is that outer doors are slightly out of square relative to the inner doors and main cabinet. Having said that, they hang and swing nicely, so overall I'm happy. As well my drawers are recycled from a previous project, so they don't fit exactly, but are fully functional. I still have to make all the tool holders, but at least it's on the wall now...
  39. 1 point
    That's the great thing about woodworking, you can build a custom piece like for a unique purpose. Perfect for the location you put it at and perfect for the specialized purpose. You could have never bought a piece that could do what you wanted, would fit that corner so well, or looks so nice.
  40. 1 point
    That’s what I have already just need a supporting surface
  41. 1 point
    My last car was a hybrid. I loved it. The first time I bought a sheet of Foamular I had the 4x8 sheet tied to my roof. It's only a couple of miles to the BORG and I drove home on the side sreets very slowly. If you go to HD they may be able to cut it down for you, though now I think they are charging a buck. How will you get your plywood home? Just thinking about it out loud, I don't see any reason why you couldn't have four 2' x 4' sections of foam board that you would use in various combinations to support your plywood. Of course I'm talking on the floor. Divided foam board is not going to work on saw horses.
  42. 1 point
    Definitely agree. This is the first I'd considered doing it by hand, and honestly, I'm excited to try it!
  43. 1 point
    I agree with leaving it alone. You can, of course, fill the cracks with epoxy, but that would ruin any value the piece has an an antique or as art. And be a real mess to clean up.
  44. 1 point
    I have small veratis I got it for cleaning up small hinge mortises. It works great just don’t to much material or the blade twist. The depth stop is sold separately just a reminder(I didn’t read carefully enough)
  45. 1 point
    Marc did a video using baking soda and water on cherry to darken it. This solution is a bit safer to use and easier to come by. I found 100% pure lye in a home center near the drain cleaner but i'm sure it can be had easily enough from the typical online sources.
  46. 1 point
    We don’t see @vinnyjojo on here as much as we use to, unfortunately. Fine fellow he is!
  47. 1 point
    Smart ass. No, I can't. They're just now feeling good, especially with the holes.
  48. 1 point
    Just can't bring yourself to giving up your old Harley Tee shirts, can you?
  49. 1 point
    Forgot to come back and thank you for the replies. I ended up picking up the 52” Incra LS fence and will set it all up this week. I don’t see myself ripping wide widths with the table saw, in fact I rarely do anything wider than around 20” as I use my track saw. I do however use the fence as a reference for crosscutting legs, aprons etc so hopefully when I get it all setup it’ll allow me just enough capacity for that purpose. Cheers
  50. 1 point
    I checked, my moderator magic seems unable to do so, although I could apparently move it to a different sub-forum. Maybe Kev's admin mojo can do what you ask.