Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/01/20 in all areas

  1. 11 points
    Finished! The bed is based on the Greene and Greene bed in the Gamble house. The house and the furniture were designed a built by the brothers. I did a modification to the foot board, because I'm 6' tall and tall foot boards are bothersome. Finished with shellac and wax. African Mahogany, Gaboon veneered center panel, and Danizia pegs and splines. I used the plans by Martin McClendon from FWW Jan/Feb 2013. I really liked that he used six spindles on each side for the queen sized bed, four just don't look right to me. Happy 4th! Sorry not a full project journal.
  2. 11 points
    My daughter is in town. We went up to the nearest DQ for my now 13-year-old pup's birthday. Maggie got her own burger and her own ice cream cone! Then we headed home for ribs and margaritas. The weather was perfect.
  3. 9 points
    I had a request for a mountain scene cutting board, laser engraved with names and wedding date. I've done a few of these and they come out looking nice but I doubt one ever gets used for anything exception kitchen art! I drew the original design in CorelDraw where I exported it as an svg to bring into Fusion 360. From there I did the CAD/CAM work to cut the Maple, Walnut, and Cherry. These pieces are about 3/8" thick and the backer board is about 7/8" thick. Everything is glued with TB III and the feet are silicone with SS screws and washers, so everything is FDA approved. After cutting the mountain scene and gluing it to the backer board it goes to the table saw for trimming to size and then to the router table for rounding the edge. I do the names and date in CorelDraw and take that file to the laser shop for engraving. That way they don't have to do anything except load the file and start the laser machine. It's finished in mineral oil with Beeswax (our own mix), even though it'll probably just be eye candy for the kitchen. Sky, mountain, foreground blanks; I picked Walnut with some sapwood to look like snowcapped and some in the foreground - Blanks glued - Blanks glued to backer board - Engraving in the laser - Finished cutting board - Enjoy! David
  4. 8 points
    Finally received a saw I ordered in April from Japan, covid slowed its delivery Also received some Brusso hardware I purchased off a Woodwhisper FB member , $130 for over $300 in product. I look forward to using a couple new pieces but most were things I use often.
  5. 8 points
    I made an attachment for my Starrett combination square heads and my LN side rabbet planes, here's a short video: For those of you who haven't seen my tool chest build, here's a link:
  6. 8 points
  7. 7 points
    I was out clipping the pastures until dark last night, and this Sunset was pretty spectacular. I wish I'd had a good camera with me, but this is a phone picture. I guess I need to upgrade my phone. The house is in that grove of trees on the other side of the barn.
  8. 7 points
    LOL that's funny we smoked some ribs and had DQ as well One of our huskys, Meeka sporting her patriotic eye wear
  9. 7 points
    Moving day! Yesterday was packing and loading from 8a-8p and then driving the truck 8:30p-2a. Up again at 6:30 to get out the essentials for the kids. We’ll relax today and then unload everything tomorrow.
  10. 7 points
    There are four parts to the drawer build: the drawer size and design, the drawer case, fitting the drawer case, and the drawer. Part 1 described the drawer size and design, and the apron of the drawer case. Part 2 describes the rest. We ended Part 1 here. That is the apron and opening to the drawer case .. This is where the build ended ... The drawer case and its fitting I scratched my head for a week how to do this. How to get the case to support drawer blades. I did not want a heavy, complicated arrangement, one which ran the danger of protruding below the table and might be seen at a distance. It needed to be lean and mean. To be elegant. A design to be appreciated by myself and you. This is what I came up with .. The case sides were grooved 3mm (1/8") ... .. and matched with a rebated section which would form the 6mm (~1/4") thick drawer blade ... The thickness of each blade is the same as the depth of the lip on the drawer front (which doubles as a drawer pull). This depth is significant. The reason for the rebate arrangement is to get the blade as low as possible on the case side. Recall that the front of the blade acts as a drawer stop as well, and must be coplanar with the lower edge of the drawer lip. The side/blades are fitted to the rear of the apron with a mortice-and-tenon joint ... This was definitely a tricky joint to do and it needed to be precisely positioned so that the entry lined up with the sides ... precisely! Here is what it would look like with the drawer front inserted ... To aid with alignment, I made a MDF pattern ... Here's the fun bit - aligning the case with the front and rear aprons, to mark out the rear mortices ... The pattern is inserted and a straight edge is attached to the front apron to prevent flexing ... A lot of repeat measurements are taken on the rear apron before I am satisfied it is square and equal front-and-back. This is the result ... By-the-way, note the biscuit joiner-made slots for attaching the table top. The drawer The drawer build was fairly straight forward. The usual half-blind fronts and through dovetail rears. Transferring tails to pins on the Moxon ... The sides were grooved rather than using slips. This was to save the extra 3mm height needed for the slips (saving as much height as possible for inside the drawer). 3mm grooves .. Matching groove in the drawer front ... Below is the stage of glueing up the drawer carcase. You know that it is all coplanar and square (essential for a piston fit) when the dovetail at each end just drop neatly into the matching sockets ... The 6mm thick drawer bottom receives a 3mm rebate. This was made with a moving fillester, and then fine-tuned with a shoulder plane ... The drawer fits well and needs minimal tuning. Got to use the newly-made drawer-planing fixture ... Two items added: a very fine chamfer to the top of the drawer front, to prevent binding when the drawer is closed. And a stretcher across the tops of the drawer sides, prevent the drawer tipping ... This aids in achieving near-full extension ... The end Regards from Perth Derek
  11. 7 points
    Gosh this page is just pure tool porn. I can't look any more! I haven't bought much lately in woodworking tools but did get this nice chronograph for measuring bullet speed.
  12. 7 points
    The drawer - part 1 It was my intention from the outset to hide the drawer as best as possible. This required that the drawer not have a pull or handle visible on the outside. To achieve this end, the drawer would need to be opened from the underside. Issue: Opening from the underside meant that the drawer would need to rest in a case which was open from below. Without a case bottom (i.e. drawer blades) on which the drawer could rest, the common method for a drawer would be a form of side hang. There are two methods for a side hung drawer that I know of, and I dislike both of them intensely! Partly because they require thick drawer sides, which lack aesthetic appeal for me. The first is a wooden slide (ugh!) which requires grooving the outside of the drawer sides ... The second method involves a metal slide (double ugh!!), which is ugly and belongs in a kitchen ... In the end I decided that I could build a drawer case with drawer blades open at the front. I have not seen anything like this before, but I live a sheltered life. I doubt this is original ... just re-inventing the wheel. There are four parts to the drawer build: the drawer size and design, the drawer case, fitting the drawer case, and the drawer. The drawer size and design The drawer is 230mm (9") wide and 280mm (11") deep. The width represents one third of the length of the apron. This works well since the depth of the drawer needs to be greater than the width to avoid racking. Racking would not be an issue if there were side slides (ugh!), but we are avoiding those thingies. Note the lip on the underside of the drawer front ... See the drawer lining up with the apron ... going ... going .. ... gone ... That lip is the drawer pull, and it doubles as the drawer stop. The drawer case Let's make the face of the drawer case. The original aprons were 100mm high. The new apron was to be 65mm, which was the height I calculated (with a life size drawing on a MDF sheet). The 65mm height included the drawer front, which would be 45mm high. That would leave a 20mm rail above the drawer. The first step here is to rip away 45mm from the original apron ... These two sections are jointed so that they may be perfectly flush once glued back together, and no join evident. The jointing was done on my large shooting board ... The drawer front is marked off - with a knife, not a pencil - from the centre of the 45mm wide board ... And then the drawer front is crosscut on the table saw. The cut area is covered in blue tape to minimise spelching ... We are now left with four sections - the wide top, the two lower side sections, and the middle drawer front. The sections are glued back (taking care not to glue the drawer front back!) ... Once the glue has dried, plane the board flat ... Did you see it before? Now the board is ripped down to 65mm, leaving a 20mm rail above the drawer front. Here you can see the front and rear aprons. They have also been cut to length, given a tenon at each end. The apron tenons are angled 3 degrees for the splayed legs ... Part 2 will complete the drawer. Regards from Perth Derek
  13. 6 points
    I started a new project/adventure yesterday. Of the four, my 10 year old grand daughter is the grand kid that has always shown the desire to learn woodworking, she is also the youngest. The intelligent questions that come out of her mouth can stun a college professor. So I decided to ask her what she would like to build, you know bird house, napkin holder, those kind of things. Nope, that wasn't going to work, she said with no hesitation I want to build a coffee table for my mom and dad. So that is the project. We spent some time looking at pictures of coffee tables on the internet, after we got some ideas we drew up a design and I showed her how to make a cut list. Then off to the lumber yard. Yesterday in the shop we rough cut all the pieces, jointed and planned them and then stickered them for a couple of days. She is a quick learner and understands the process of being safe so when I took each of these pictures I had her turn the tool off so I could take the picture with out worrying about her safety at the same time. When she was putting pieces through the planer, my wife took the pictures because I was catching for her. The only thing my grand daughter didn't want to do was running the pieces through the jointer so I did that for her and I was glad that she was willing to make a decision like that instead of thinking she "had to" do everything. Laying out parts with a her tape measure and caulk. Rough cut to length with the jig saw. Ripping to rough width at the band saw. Running things through the planer. And Stickering.
  14. 6 points
    I married up too. I think it's the only way to go (if you can manage it). My wife is so much better at so many things than I am that it is a humbling experience and lessons learned every day. She's away for a few days, camping with her son and g-daughter, and it's all I can do to hold the place together until she gets back and takes care of me again.
  15. 6 points
    Who do you think I am, Tom King?
  16. 6 points
    Tried my hand at spraying with my Wagner HVLP. This little computer desk is for my Dad's home office. Sorry the lighting is terrible. Anyway, it was a learning experience. Rustoleum Industrial enamel, dries slowly enough to self-level pretty well. The sprayer worked well, but I need more practice to get it smoother. Dad gave me a sketch with dimensions, and said "Just throw something together with 2x4 and plywood. I hope he appreciates that I tried to do more than 'throw' it together, although it IS just 2x4 and plywood. This side of the front panel is a surprise: I hope he likes having his signature / logo there! Dad is a painter and illustrator, lately an author. Officially retired but working about as much as ever. Hope I'm still going that strong in my 80s. If you would like to see his work, he has a gallery at www.joemccormickcountry.com. Thanks for looking.
  17. 6 points
    Thanks Dave, celebrating our nations birth like everyone and the day I met this girl in 1969
  18. 6 points
    Her Mom, my oldest used to hang out with me in the shop with me, although at that time the "shop" wasn't nearly what it is now. We built some nice projects together. I would say that she listened to what I was saying back then because when she was in college part of her major required her to take a shop class were they learned how to make theater sets. We heard through the grape vine from the college that on a couple of occasions our daughter informed the instructor that "there was a safer way to do that".
  19. 6 points
    I re-upped today for another tour of duty. Plan was that tomorrow was to be my last day at work. I hashed out a deal with the new owner that I will work 3 days a week for two weeks a month instead of for 3 weeks a month. 11 days off, 3 at work, 11 days off, etc. . Instead of full retirement, I kinda did it for my wife’s sanity as well as my own!
  20. 6 points
    Not a lot to show for the day but she learned how to do some different things. First she ripped the top pieces to width for glue up. Then did some layout for dominos to help with the glue up. Then she practiced using the domino machine on some scraps. Then on to the real thing. Applying glue... ...and into the clamps. After this she practiced cutting curves on the band saw and cleaning them up, first with the spindle sander. and then using a spoke shave. After that and some lunch, we took the top out of the clamps and cleaned up some squeeze out and then ran it through the drum sander, I didn't get any pictures of that. She learned how to do an epoxy fill on some small knots in the top. And she learned that everyday, at the end of the day the shop gets cleaned up.
  21. 6 points
    Got another part of my Father's Day gift from my son today. These little drop shipments are like Christmas over and over again. Veritas from Lee Valley. Seems like it will work ok. Won't win any style points, but will mark lines 
  22. 5 points
    I think you're misunderstanding that "Snapped up" remark. I think she saw how trainable you were and took control without you even realizing it.
  23. 5 points
    For me a personal milestone today, as I did a dry fit of parts, then measured the drawer cavity - and the dimensions 100% matched the Sketchup drawing I did. I've never managed that level of accuracy. I'm super pumped.
  24. 5 points
    I wouldn't worry about making it any flatter. I would worry about contaminating my wood projects with oil or bits of metal left my the mechanic work. I suggest cutting a 'slip cover' of 1/8" hardboard to use for one activity and remove for the other. Use it for mechanic mode, I think is best.
  25. 5 points
    We started of today by cutting the legs and aprons to final length. First she trued up one end of all the legs using the cross cut sled. Set up a stop block to cut them to final length. Here she was learning how to check the setup of the stop block for correct length before cutting the long aprons to final size. And making the cuts. Next we did all the joinery for the legs and aprons. For this we used Dominos. I forgot to take pictures of this because I was enjoying watching how well she has adapted to using this machine in such a short period of time. If anyone is interested in how we decided to use dominos for this instead of a more traditional mortise and tenon joint for her first project, let me know and I will be happy to share it with you. This is the first dry fit of the project. This brought a real smile to my face to see her work on her first project come together this well. The table looks chunky right now but we still have to add some curves to the aprons and legs and a chamfer to the underside of the top among other things.
  26. 5 points
    Just arrived. This is the brushless version of the 150/3 that I already own. I have some nerve damage in my arm so a lighter tool is always welcomed.
  27. 4 points
    Just got this and used it for the first time. I don't have a lot of experience with hvlp systems, but here's my review. COMPONENTS All are very well made. I'm very impressed with the quality of the gun. All steel construction, except for the grip. POWER SOURCE It's a 3 stage (3 turbine) unit. Produces 5.5 CFM. It's about as loud as a medium sized shop vac. Two nice things here are the filters are very easy to access and clean, and there's a hook to dock the sprayer that slides out of the way when you don't need it. HOSE IVE never been this excited over a hose but this thing is really well made. It's 25' long and sturdy enough that you can stand on it (probably best not to though) but still very flexible for maneuvering. The quick release coupling for the gun is well designed and works flawlessly. GUN Very easy to operate and manipulate the spray pattern. The cap can be turned to the fan go vertical or horizontal. There are two knobs. One controls the size of the fan from a dot to a wide fan. The other controls the volume of material being put out. One other cool feature, and maybe this is standard in these style guns, is the straw that goes into the cup is bent. This means you can rotate it to hit the front on the cup if you're angling the gun down, or the back of the cup if you're angling the gun up. The gun is very easy to disassemble for cleaning. IN USE I put a final coat of poly on a bench and the results are very pleasing. Very even and professional looking -at least for me. Two things: I did experience some drops falling off the cup. I don't know if I didn't have it seated perfectly or what. But I did have to pull out a brush to deal with a few drops when spraying from above. The cup locks onto the gun with a cam assembly and this seems like it could be better, as there's a lever to activate the cam action and you can only move the lever about half way until it's locked. It seems like it should lock after moving the lever the entire range of it's path and not halfway through. I think this contributed to the drops I mentioned. Very pleased with this unit, albeit after only one use. There was no orange peel or spitting at all. YMMV.
  28. 4 points
    I'm either crazy or stupid. It's 90 degrees and 50%humidity (70 degree dew point) and I'm running my chain saw mill.
  29. 4 points
    That reminds me of a 1949 ford coupe I once had.
  30. 4 points
    Well, not exactly new, being a 2004 with 275,000 miles, but new for this use. Pam found a car she liked, and with this one not being worth much, we decided to make it a farm vehicle. It works good for this. The horses got out yesterday morning. Someone came through, and left a gate open. I drove this all down through the trails looking for them, but when I came back to the house, they were grazing in the yard. Hatchback AWD, and plenty of power, will work good.
  31. 4 points
    She got a 2019 Impreza hatchback, with leather, and every option available, with 3900 miles. It was bought as the loaner car for the dealership. They order one with everything, in hopes that people using it will want to upgrade. With 2020 models available for 0%, and moving like hotcakes, they were motivated to sell this 2019 one for cash. She promised them not to tell what she got it for, but it was significantly less than a base model 2020 with nothing added. She wanted a white one, with leather, and this was the only one. She called me to ask about all the extra electronic stuff on it. I told her that we didn't want that, because it would just be trouble down the road. They threw in bumper to bumper warranty for 72 months, and roadside assistance, so she drove it home.
  32. 4 points
    This thread makes my day Chet, that’s one talented and smart girl right there, she’s fortunate to have such a great teacher, wouldn’t be surprised to see her being a woodworker her whole life thanks to you
  33. 4 points
    Robby, if you are like me, and maybe I’m more sentimental, but anything a family member (or anyone) gives me as a gift, I acknowledge the gift when I receive it and think of the person that gave it to me when I use it. Even if it is a gift card, I let them know what they gave me, always! Marking knives are cool and very useful.
  34. 3 points
    Happy Independence Day everyone! I hope you're all having a wonderful, healthy, and fulfilling weekend with family, friends, etc. ...enjoying the best of whatever it is you're doing.
  35. 3 points
    Not quite 4 weeks ago, a good friend, Rita, brought along an entrance hall table she wanted me to fit a drawer into ... (Note that these photos were taken in my entrance hall, not Rita's). It was really a boring ... okay, ugly table. I thought that the proportions were completely ugh, and the legs reminded me of detention in a classroom. The table had been a kerbside salvage by her late husband, a close friend of mine, and a very good woodworker in his own right. It had been used as a work table. Rita had just moved into a new home, and the table was used because the width of the top fitted an alcove in the entrance hall. I said to Rita that I would re-build the table. "But I must have a drawer", Rita emphasised. The wood was good Jarrah. The first step was to pull it apart. This was not so easy as simply unscrewing the clips for the top ... Some evil tablemaker had used a nail gun to attach the corner blocks. Pulling them out left holes in the legs. The legs were attached with dowels. I would never have guessed as the construction was very strong. Pulling them away caused some of the wood to tear along with it. No way to remove them other than saw the ends away. Deconstructed ... Let's begin again .. I thought that I would do something different with this write-up. Turn it around and start with the finished piece. That's right ... the table rebuild is complete. This will provide a picture of the end result, and we can then look at how certain parts were built. This way around might create a better understanding of where the build was going, and how it got there. In particular, the drawer. The drawer is a little beauty. I did scratch my head over the construction. No doubt it has been done before, but I could not find any pictures of another like it. I am sure there will be interest in the design. I am chuffed with the efficiency of it. More on this in the next article. For now, here is the completed table. The legs have been brought inward, tapered, and a 3 degree splay added to the sides. The top retained its width (I was threatened with death, or worse, if it was shortened) but was made shallower. A slight camber was added front-and-back to soften the outline ... The apron was also made shallower. The original was 100mm (4") high. It is now 65mm (2 1/2") high. Oy .. where's the drawer gone?! I could have sworn it was there yesterday. Aah ... there it is ... This is the drawer case ... With drawer inserted - you need to get close up to see the joins .. It opens with a pull under the drawer .. The drawer is shallow, of course, it is just for house keys and the odd remote control. It is just 45mm (1 3/4") high on the outside and 26mm (1") deep inside. The full dimensions are 230mm (9") wide and 280mm (11") deep ... The sides are 7mm thick. The drawer front is 18mm (roughly 3/4"). To maximise the internal height, the drawer bottom was attached with a groove into the drawer sides rather than using slips. Slips would have used a precious extra 3mm (1/8"). So they 6mm (1/4") drawer bottom has a 3mm rebate, fitting a 3mm groove. The sides and bottom are quartersawn Tasmanian Oak, which is very stable and tough. One screw at the rear, with an expansion slot, to hold it firmly. A nice, tight drawer ... It slides in-and-out smoothly. I love that it disappears and is hidden. More on the construction next time, but feel free to ask questions. Regards from Perth Derek
  36. 3 points
    Hi, a french youtuber had a tour of the Auriou shop: it will give you a chance to practice your french !
  37. 3 points
    A low quality photo, but a good moment.
  38. 3 points
    Don't use olive oil. It is NOT a drying oil for furniture finish. Danish oils is a blend of solvent, drying oil, and varnish. Just be sure to wipe away any excess, and let the remainder cure for a couple of days. If there are tacky spots, but no 'puddles', use rag dampened with mineral spirits to remove the tacky material. Let it dry to the touch, and evaluate. If it seems blotchy or uneven, I find that wetting the surface with more danish oil, and sanding it thoroughly with 400 grit while wet, is pretty good for blending it into a smooth layer. Remember to wipe away the excess before it starts to tack up.
  39. 3 points
    If I was Maggie I think I would hold out for the Ribs and a Margarita
  40. 3 points
    The Wart Hog is my favorite! Great pics.
  41. 3 points
    Under the pattern at Davis-Monthan. My favorites are not my best, just favorites.
  42. 3 points
    Made this one out of Red Gum for the granddaughter, hidden behind the drawer is a musical movement that starts and stops when the drawer is opened, the movement is from http://www.themusichouse.com , if you haven't had a chance to make a music box these are the best people to deal with, awesome folks and a wide selection of movements. not continuous grain all around just 3 corners, the wood is a little thick for my taste but this stuff warps pretty easy and i was getting some bad chip out on the planer so i quit while i was ahead. the drawer box is Sapele, finish is ARS, 3 coats, as always thanks for looking folks, comments-questions are welcome, a special thanks to @Coop for setting me straight on the hinges, these look much better than what i had been doing, just messing with you coop but thanks, i re-learned how to cut mortices with a chisel
  43. 3 points
    The legs I had meant to mention the way I dealt with the dowels, which were the original joinery for the legs, but there was not the opportunity. Here are the legs, and you can see the ugly dowels. What I did was to turn them upside down, and remove the dowelled section in the taper cut ... First, the legs were morticed .. I built a simple fixture for my sliding table saw ... The nail holes were filled with coloured epoxy, which disappeared after the finish was applied ... And then smoothed ... I was asked (when I posted this photo elsewhere) why I planed into the grain. The answer is ‘because I can with a closed chipbreaker’ No, the real answer is because it was easier to keep track of the mark demarcating the flat section. Regards from Perth Derek
  44. 3 points
    Hopefully I have better luck with this one.
  45. 3 points
    We go for walks every day when the weather is decent. Sometimes we see a rabbit in the neighborhood. Today there were two, and our little dog went ape! She wants to be friends, and doesn't understand why they run from her. Most of them outweigh her, and they're certainly faster than her even if she was off the leash. Here she is on her wedding day.... All 8 pounds of her.
  46. 3 points
    Me too, I see a great future for that little lady, she will put us all shame in a few years, I wonder if Chet has thought of his future bills for tools for her, at least she will be easy to buy Christmas gifts for
  47. 3 points
    I reduce the size of blanks before milling whenever possible for all the obvious reasons. This is a blank for a long, thick, painted piece of trim in a saloon so, it is just a bit bigger than the final dimensions. I totally get the reason for the question and for the sake of sharing I should probably not use phrases like "all the obvious reasons" if I am trying to add some value in a forum environment . The "obvious reasons" for breaking down stock before milling may include: Shorter lengths and narrower widths minimize defects such as crook, bow, cup and twist. A four foot board with a 1/4" bow can take a lot of milling to square up. An 18" section of that board with only 3/32" of deviation takes less. Parts broken down and left to re-acclimate can be more stable once final milling is performed. I'm getting old and smaller parts are lighter Some reasons for milling large blanks that are not for large parts might include: Face and edge jointing to prepare a large blank for re-sawing planks or veneers. Economy of effort if you are making a large number of duplicate parts; a series of 6" lengths of a given dimensional blank. The end dimensions of the parts are too small for safe milling operations. Examples might be shaped profiles that are ripped off to make trim, short, fat or just plain awkward shapes that are better cut off of a larger "handler" blank.
  48. 3 points
    Finishes ... Somehow this area was forgotten, and of course it is important. All surfaces were hand planed, and then finished in de-waxed Ubeaut Hard Shellac. This concentrated and thinned with denatured alcohol/methylated spirits. This finish allows the figure to come through and, unlike an oil, does not darken the already dark Jarrah (which is what I wanted to avoid). The top was, in addition, sanded with a ROS to 400 grit. Jarrah is an open-grain timber and the sanded Shellac doubled as a grain-filler, leaving a smoothed surface. The next step was to rub in (and off) a water-based poly, from General Finishes, which does not darken or yellow with age. I rub thin coats on with microfibre cloths and then denib with 400 grit grey mesh ... The final step is to wax (the top) with Howards Wax-N-Feed, which is a mix of beeswax and carnauba wax. This produces a very soft, warm and natural finish. Regards from Perth Derek
  49. 3 points
    I am really happy with them. It makes breaking down so much easier, you don't have to figure out how to position work so you have it hanging over the edge for a cut.
  50. 3 points
    I see a lot of spoons in that elm log....