Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/30/20 in Posts

  1. 10 points
    Everyday we have quotes posted in our local paper that were overheard in public. Sometimes there just cute things but most of the time they are pretty funny and in this case fitting to the times.
  2. 8 points
    So where I left off with this project I was gluing up the "rails", or the sides of the board. If you remember I added 2 strips the length of the board, staggering them and then connected them with a third and larger strip. So now that the glue ups are finally over, it's on to shaping. And believe me i'm glad the glue ups are over! So for shaping I'll use primarily just a few tools, the RAS doing the bulk reduction, rasp refining the shape, and a sander with an interface pad on to smooth; With the RAS I can get the shape pretty close, here's a pic of a small section of rail where the RAS still has some reduction left to do, but you can see how well it's done on either side of the unreduced area, you can also see the 3 distinct strips and how they are staggered, or stepped; Here we are with the RAS work completed and if you look closely the outline is not perfectly smooth. The rasp work will fix that; Now here are some pics after sanding, you will see 3 different results, first in this pic you can barely tell where the 3 strips begin and end; in this pic you can see the strips but the joint looks tight; In this pic I didn't get the joint closed up as well as I would have liked and you can see a very pronounced glue line; Now I'm not happy about that last pic, but the glassing and epoxy will take care of that. In the boards I've done, I've found it's very hard to close down every joint the whole length of the joint when you are curving and bending long strips into place. You just never seem to have enough clamps. Finally here are a few pics of the final shaped board; What's next is, glassing, adding the fins, vents and handle, then a final coat of epoxy. Oh, and then I need to make a paddle, or paddles rather. Thanks for looking.
  3. 8 points
    Doing good, just finished this up today.
  4. 8 points
    I havent updated this in a while, but much progress has been made due to being shutdown. I am fortunate in the fact that I can work from home, counting my lucky stars on that. With no commute and no where to go, shop time has increased significantly. Leg vise has been fitted, tested and completed Base is complete. Laid out mortise locations for the slabs yesterday and hope to cut those this afternoon.
  5. 8 points
    I've had this build on my to do list for a while and I put it off, and now I remember why, because there are so many glueups. I've already been through two 16 oz bottles of TB III. So @Chip Sawdust is right, this does seem to be going slow. But I have made progress so here's the update. Top deck is done so it was on to the bottom deck. This glue up is a little more tricky since the top deck prevents getting good clamping pressure onto the ribs. So some creative clamping did the trick. Center board is the first to be glued; And working my way out from there; Once I got most of the lower deck glued up I wanted to get the nose boards put on. Started with cleaning up the front of the board. Before cleanup; After cleanup; So now that I have a nice surface to glue to I started with adding my boards. In this pic you can see I was able to tie my clamps into the board frame where I had not yet put my decking on. This worked out great and I don't think I could have done this as effectively if all my decking was in place. Also I left the first boards very proud of the deck. I used this lip to glue on successive boards. So then it was a matter of glue up after glueup, alternating 8 boards. Here's the end result with some rough shaping to get the nose boards flush with the deck; Next a little rough shaping of the nose. Really like as I shape and round the front that the light color paulownia peeks out from the cedar; Now on to the sides. First I need to flush up the deck and the frame and make the top deck even with the bottom deck; Now that I have a nice surface to glue too I start adding strips; In this pic you can see I'm adding a second strip to the first strip. After getting two strips added to the top and bottom I'll "connect" the top to the bottom with 1 last strip, then it will be all closed up. And finally, here's how the tail is shaping up; So I have got a lot done but it does feel like slow going. I can get a couple glue ups done, then I need to wait a few hrs before moving on. So in between glue ups I've been working in my yard. Just redid my garden beds. So I have been productive in more ways then one; Thanks for looking.
  6. 7 points
    I fixed this: Fine woodworking & attention to detail
  7. 7 points
    Got this so it's ready for finish. Vanity for a friend.
  8. 7 points
  9. 6 points
    If you see two images, it's 'cause I pasted one and drag/dropped the other. If you see none, I don't know WHAT is going on. I see it just fine.
  10. 6 points
    I will say.....this whole thing has me reading a heck of a lot more online content, especially Facebook. This came up on my FB feed, and I'm still laughing - Morgan Freeman, narrating....
  11. 6 points
    Getting ready to make a TP run to Walmart... JK. Still sanding..... 80 grit is my baseline for final shaping of the piece. I find the pencil scribble to be invaluable for ensuring all the surface is covered. Like you guys didn't already know that. I left one little knot in the pedestal, just for character. Unfortunately, the branch stub had fallen out. How do you like my 'glue and sawdust' recreation? Used both oak and walnut dist to get the effect. Now for the really satisfying part. Chemical coloring of the cherry is so quick and dramatic, it blows my mind. The colorant of choice ... The raw cherry, sanded to 120 grit. And immediately after wiping on the Drano: The color continues to darken as the water in the mix evaporates away. I start this after the 120 grit sanding, for two reasons. 1. The water raises the grain, so I like to start a couple grits below final, and ... 2. Following this process gives me about three applications to ensure even coverage, and soak the color in quite deeply. By the final sanding, no color is removed at all. I am going to try this 'lye' on the next red oak project I make, as my tests on scrap pieces yielded a very pleasing caramel color, almost a root-beer brown. Take appropriate precautions when working with corrosive chemicals. Chemical-appropriate gloves and protective eyewear at minimum. A face shield, and chemical smock or apron and sleeves are a good idea. I have tested the effects on cloth, and a small spill isn't going to make you spontaneously combust, but I wouldn't want this stuff on my skin, and especially not in my eyes. Keep clean water handy for a quick wash if it does splash or spill on you.
  12. 5 points
    Bought a new trim router the Bosch cordless becuase well you can never have to many routers right
  13. 5 points
    I thought about getting a T-shirt that said STFAH, but then I thought that since I'm at home, no one would see it.
  14. 5 points
    I finally finished with this project. The top is made from a single piece of butternut and the bottom is made from a block of wood that was labelled English walnut, but turned out to be teak. This was the blank I asked about in the Wood section and @phinds was kind enough to evaluate. @Chestnut, I know you particularly wanted to see the figure, but after turning and sculpting there's almost nothing left of the indented grain pattern. There is a little visible in the right hand pillar of the first two photo's.
  15. 5 points
    It looks as though we in the UK will be isolating for at least 6 months. They are reviewing the situation every three weeks. We are just starting week 2 of the run. I work from home so am ok for salary and we are getting food delivered by the supermarkets. More importantly we got a big delivery of wine and beer today. So if the food diminishes we can still get our calories from a liquid intake
  16. 4 points
    Just like the Government wants to fill it's strategic oil reserves, I want to stock pile high quality lumber in my strategic reserves.
  17. 4 points
    Still working on the John Deere, when I get some time. It's back together, from the two splits for the reverser clutch system rebuild, and has been for several weeks. In the process of putting it back together, there are some hard hydraulic lines that had to put back together. They had to be disconnected to split the tractor. I found some serious problems caused by idiots working on it in the past. All the flare nuts were distorted from having regular wrenches used on them. After the nut is distorted, it will leak, so then the unknowing mechanic with tighten it some more. Only flare nut wrenches should ever be used on such line nuts, regardless of their size. These require either a 1" wrench, or 1-1/4" wrenches, and flare nut wrenches do come in those sizes, and even much larger. I ordered what I needed off ebay. All the steps of getting to a place where I need more tools adds time in days, as I order stuff, wait for it to get here, and then leave the packages for a couple of days to make sure any virus is dead. Here is the most visible problem I found, and then found that all the nuts, in the whole system were distorted. That's when I stopped, and ordered the large flare nut wrenches. I also printed out a torque chart, and ordered some flare nut crowsfoot sockets to use on a torque wrench. There will be more posts in this thread, but I need to get to work this morning. This has been quite a project. I'll add a couple of extra pictures, as a teaser for the rest of the process-ended up redoing the front axle too. It's been extra slow, since I'm working by myself, without a helper, like I normally do.
  18. 4 points
    My two kids have yet to say that they are more worried about my 401k than me so, that’s a good thing.
  19. 4 points
    Bearing guided core box bit and a circle cutout. That or the circle jig like you mentioned. I'd cut it on the fullsized board before cutting in the profile detail that it shows.
  20. 3 points
    Outdoor movie night. Burned my chair templates. They were taking up too much room.
  21. 3 points
    Watching old F1 recaps on YT while making progress on my Ferrari model
  22. 3 points
    If anyone deserves it, they and first responders do. My wife said she will not go with me Monday morning to Kroger’s senior hour if I wear my whitey tighties as a mask. She will miss the fun!
  23. 3 points
    If the lid is too fragile to handle the suggested processes, why not sculpt the box edges until it matches? A ever-so-slightly curved line where the two meet is far more difficult to notice than a gap.
  24. 3 points
    Felt I had to post this here... https://profootballtalk.nbcsports.com/2020/04/02/patriots-retrieve-more-than-a-million-n95-masks-from-china/ Robert Kraft gets a lot of headlines - both good and bad - but this quote caught my eye...“In today’s world, those of us who are fortunate to make a difference have a significant responsibility to do so with all the assets we have available to us.”
  25. 3 points
  26. 3 points
    I wasn't sure which forum to put it in. Saw is an old 070. You don't need a chain brake anyway, if you're not going to use the front handle.
  27. 3 points
    Coop the next time you come in, I want you to kick my butt for selling RIW a whole log of tiger hard maple.
  28. 3 points
    I just got this email from Nikon. I guess they are taking advantage of people being stuck at home and are opening up their learning courses for free. https://www.nikonevents.com/us/live/nikon-school-online/?&utm_source=MKT&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=FreeNSO-4-1-2020&utm_content=btn&utm_term=startnow&ET_CID=3269339&ET_RID=326549722&SC_ID=0032400000mK7W3AAK Could be useful to many just thought i'd throw it here.
  29. 3 points
    My cousin, who is an advanced ameteur photographer, lent me a Nikon D70 and some other equipment. Here's a picture of the setup and one of my "design studio".
  30. 3 points
    Thank you. I'm a self taught hobbiest who acquired a very nice shop over the last 40 plus years. When I retired I intended to make a little money building furniture and hardwood counter tops but I ended up building furniture at a very consistent loss for my family, friends and church. Oh well, it makes my wife accept some of my shortcomings. I like to build beds and tables but I've built tv consoles, counter tops, cabinets and lots of other stuff except I've never built a chair. My last couple of projects were a copy of The Railroad Barons bed built in walnut, a live edge walnut sofa table and three tables on pipe frames with casters for my church. I'm just starting a river table with glass insert from a cherry slab that is about 24" by 96" by 2 1/4". In my shop I have 54" (?) 5hp Jet cabinet table saw, 20" Powermatic planer, 8"Grizzly jointer, Delta bandsaw, 12" Dewalt compound miter, Jet drill press, 3 1/2 hp router table , 50"Woodmaster sander and 4 vac systems. I've also got a 16" jointer that was built in around 1860 that was originally water or steam powered that I haven't finished refurbishing.The tools are better than the woodworker. I'm slow but I still have all my fingers.
  31. 3 points
    Did a little more on the Ferrari today. Put a little heat in the shop, brushed some sawdust out of the way and prayed some red paint. A friend of mine says you can't spray in the shop because the dust is ionically charged to attract itself to the paint spray. I didn't buy it, and I think the results speak for themselves. I'm not a professional and maybe not that picky in some things, but this is a Ferrari and I am a tifosi from way back so this has to be decent, if not perfect.
  32. 3 points
    Looks too small for a typical "beam compass" type jig, so I vote for @Chestnut's idea of a circle cutout and a guide bushing. Or give me a couple days, I'll rig up something to do it with a tablesaw.....
  33. 3 points
    Visiting my Mother today, at her Assisted Living place. Her 104th Birthday will be April 18th. She was two when she lost family members to the 1918 pandemic. We were after them to stop letting visitors in 3 weeks ago, when we first starting self-isolating ourselves. They did start not allowing visitors for the past couple of weeks. Fortunately, the whole place is on ground level. We kept our distance, and had a nice visit. She's still completely clear headed, and says we just have to do what we need to. She opened her windows, so we could talk through the screen.
  34. 2 points
    So you mean my daughter has actually been coughing all this time???
  35. 2 points
    One of the best systems I use is multiple white dishpans, and cups, to keep up with each assembly's parts. It worked like a charm when I put the tractor back together after the splits. It was a multi-month project, and it helped immensely in figuring out where everything went back. No left over parts, so far. This particular pan was for the forward facing, Mid-PTO, which I never have any need for, but it had to come out to get the Reverse Clutch out. I forget how many of these I used, but it was a fair number.
  36. 2 points
    Thoroughly enjoying the build right now. Hard to get actual work done when I am sitting on the other side of the wall from the bench. I just want to get out there and keep going. So close to the finish line.
  37. 2 points
    The Bosch Palm router, should be here in a week or two. I will let you know how I like it but like you mentioned I think it will be nice for edge routing tasks. https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boschtools-ocs/12v-max-routers-37949-c/
  38. 2 points
    Anyone here watch Zoboomafoo as a kid or with your kids?
  39. 2 points
    Progress is slow, not much time in the shop. I filled the grain (just on the top) with plaster of paris. For those unfamiliar, this is an old technique used by piano makers. Moisten a rolled cotton rag (t-shirt) with water, dip it into the PoP powder, then rub in in like waxing a car. After it dries, clean the surface with the same or next higher grit. Red oak has enormous pores, so a single application isn't glassy smooth, but adequate in this case. The plaster left in the pores becomes rather translucent with oil-based clear finish, or will absorb pigment to enhance the grain contrast when stained.
  40. 2 points
    That must mean that you need two new lathes!
  41. 2 points
    Meat calculator says that one link of venison sausage will serve two people for one meal. I’m sure glad my wife likes oatmeal better than venison.
  42. 2 points
    Your best bet would be a plywood carcass. You can get plywood with any hardwood exterior you would like, Oak, Cherry, even walnut, then use solid wood for your face and doors. In this case, it's not about saving money, it's about construction. Solid wood will move no matter what you do to prevent it. Plywood is 10 or more times stable, and as far as appearance goes, just how much of the carcass in reality will be seen? Going all out with solid wood will eventually give you a small pile of expensive firewood.
  43. 2 points
    As I've been telling people I work with, this is a dynamic situation and subject to change from week to week. We don't know what we don't know, and that's a lot, it seems. Meanwhile, I discovered this little humorous take on it from the BRCC folks (no I'm not affiliated, just thought it was funny):
  44. 2 points
    I'm just taking a guess here, but isn't that better than almost dead or even dead?
  45. 2 points
    It was supposed to be a droplet of water, but now I tell people it's honey (higher viscosity ). I didn't get the contours of the droplet quite the way I intended--it's only my second finial, so I'm cutting myself some slack. I also was a little off on the outer curve of the base component, and the droplet isn't dropped as far as I would have liked. Here are a couple of 3D drawings showing the goal, but if you excuse the pun, with a lathe things don't always turn out the way you were planning.
  46. 2 points
    Geez I thought you'd already be done! Looking dang good Bmac.
  47. 2 points
  48. 2 points
    I was thinking the same thing. I just did something similar for a shop project. Cutting it on a full sized board is something I didn't think for your project but it would be a good idea.
  49. 2 points
    Quick update on the SUP. Last post of progress was on Tues, and I haven't moved as fast as I was hoping. Partly because we've had some nice weather and work on my garden/yard/house pulled me out of the shop. But that's ok, I'm still moving forward and the amount of glueups has been tedious. After finishing the top decking I began prep for adding the lower decking and for "closing" up the board. I have a few things that need to be done internally before adding the bottom deck. First is added glue strips to the plywood framework, a real long process. Here are my strips prior to sizing, and in the end I used all these; Gluing up to the plywood framework, glue to the center and to the cross pieces; Next I need to make sure that all the chambers of the board are connected for even air pressure. Some simply holes placed in the center support; And some notches in the cross pieces. These notches allow not only air flow but also can act as drain knotches in case water gets in the board, not that I plan that to happen; And here's the board woth the ribs glued on and all ready for the deck; Couple other things to point out. Blocking for leash cup and air vent. I'll be using an combination device fitted with a goretex membrane. This membrane prevents water for coming in but allows air to escape. The hole in the block will be centered at the bottom of the larger hole I'll drill into the top of the board to insert the leash cup/vent; Next, I prepped the back and front of the board for blocking the will form the nose and tail. Here's the tail; Here's the nose; Finally, got the fin finallized, First cut out; Next mark the midline; Then shaped/feathered both edges down to that line, this is called the foil for the fin; So the next steps will be leveling the supports, alittle work on blocks for the nose, and the adding the bottom deck. Thanks for looking!
  50. 2 points
    Just to be clear guys, I'm not saying that a phone is just a notch below a DSLR. But in so many situations, a good phone camera is definitely good enough. It is astounding how good they have gotten. This is just the kind of thing where a good phone camera will do a great job. As they say, the very best camera is the one you have with you.