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  1. 13 points
    About a year ago I read Nick Offerman's book. It's a pretty fun read if you have not read it. In that book, he has a picture of a table designed and built by George Nakashima. It's this picture: When I saw that picture I was immediately smitten with this design. To my eye this table is somehow both complex and simple at the same time. I knew when I saw the table I needed it on my todo list. I could not start on the table right away. I had to remodel our kitchen which took an incredible amount of time. I had to build some shelves. I also built a small counter top for our laundry room. All that took many months. Too many months. And all through those months I could not get this table out of my head. And now that we are in the dead of the summer here in Arizona.....where it has been around 117 degrees for a couple of weeks.....I have finally been able to get started. I did some googleing and found some more pictures of the table to emulate. I was also able to find some rough plans: I now have enough enthusiasm and knowledge to be very dangerous. So I went and bought some wood! The 4 boards on the right are 8/4 white oak, these will make up the table top. These are 10 feet long. My table is only 6 feet but they only sell them in full lengths. I will have a lot of big off cuts. White oak is my favorite so I suppose having some extra white oak kicking around is not a bad thing. The board on the far left is 12/4 white oak. I SHOULD be able to get all the pieces needed for the base out of just that one board. We'll see though. Just getting these monster boards out of the truck and into my garage by myself took some mental (and physical) gymnastics but I did it. I am building the base first and I will do the top last. My reasoning is that if I were to glue up the table top, which will be 3'x6' then that top is going to be very heavy. Way too heavy for me to move by myself safely. And at that size the top will probably be in the way in my small shop/garage and would require being moved around a lot. But the individual boards, while still heavy, are much easier to move around. For the base I am starting from the ground up. I'll make the long "runner" that runs along the floor first, then the "feet" that sick out to either side, then angled "legs" and end with the cross pieces at the top of the legs. To make the base I need to turn that large 12/4 board into smaller boards. As you can imagine, this took a bit of time. But I rather enjoyed it. Here is what you are looking at in the above pic. I jointed and planed the long floor runner (I don't really know what to call that thing) and that is what you are seeing on the right, it's just under 5' long. To it's left, that large piece will be the "legs". That piece is just over 5' long, it will be cross cut directly down the middle for the legs. Below the leg piece is the part I will be using for the feet. And below the already milled piece is where I will get the cross supports that will be the top of the legs. I ended up ripping all 10' of that board by hand. I was not as sore as I thought I would be, but I did get more blisters than I thought I would. All of those parts got crosscut and milled. Now for the REALLY fun stuff. The joinery! Starting with the Floor Runner and the Feet. This is the runner. It gets a notch. I cut close to the line then did relief cuts. Chisel out then waste trying hard not to blow out the back side. Establish my marking lines. Not flawless but she's square and my knife lines ended up perfect. Now for the feet. This joint is a little trickier. Need to make this lap on both sides, so mark it, cut it, chisel it. Clean up with the router plane. Then clean up with the chisel. I need to make a notch in the foot that will correlate to the notch in the runner. Same exact steps as the others. Cut. Rough chisel work. Then some fine chisel work. Ready for a dry fit. Fits very snug. I actually had to plane the sides of the runner a little bit to get the joint to seat fully. Here is the bottom which no one will see. Here is the top looking VERY sharp. And both feet done! I have left everything long. I will not cut the runner or the feet to their final width until I have the table top made. That way I will have a much better sense of proportions. Next I will work on the legs. The leg joinery will be very similar to the joinery for the feet but this time the runner will be getting the laps on the sides and the legs will just receive the notch. Anyone know what the name of that joint is? I assume it is some kind of bridle joint. Housed Bridle Joint? Lapped Bridle Joint? Well whatever it's called it was my first time doing it. I spent an embarrassing amount of time trying to figure out how to mark everything. Thanks for taking the time to look. I'll keep updating as I get stuff done, but don't hold your breath, I do not get much opportunity to do much woodworking. I currently have no time for the next 2 weeks. But I'll keep plugging along. If anyone sees any red flags that I am overlooking please shout them out. I still very much consider myself a beginner and could use the help of you veterans.
  2. 8 points
    When I told a good friend of mine that I'd bought a small lathe he said he was sending me a "care package". I wasn't sure what to expect but after a few failed attempts at delivering them I finally was able to pick them up at the post office. As his skills have improved he's replaced all these with Carter & Son tools. Friends are great!
  3. 8 points
    After dark, I answer the door undressed. Scares the hell out of 'em and they never come back.
  4. 8 points
    My tires rotate every time I drive
  5. 7 points
    I finally get to participate. Got me 3 ea. Dubuque 48” clamps and a 1/2” spiral up Whiteside bit.
  6. 6 points
    First up today I knocked out the last three cloth picture frames With these complete the exercise room is done! Just a few items in the bar and bath left... After reading the mastic instructions I decided the quickest and easiest thing to do re the metal bar top mounts was run get a piece of 1/4" drywall and go over them Then I started to tile I ended up getting a 4 1/2" diamond blade for my grinder and with the use of some scrap poplar and 2 clamps I was able to cut what I needed. Again it was the cheapest way to accomplish what I need which was just a few cuts. In a couple days I'll grout it and that will be one more thing of the list.
  7. 6 points
    So, not as exciting as what some others have received, but there’s an interesting back story I thought I’d share. I bought a Sjobergs multi-function bench from Lee Valley a couple of months ago, and wanted a hold-down or two. I ordered one made by Sjobergs, which works great, but it’s pricey at $85. So early last month, I was looking for alternatives, and came across this Kreg self-adjusting bench clamp, which was selling for around $50 on Amazon. One evening, I was doing a more thorough search, and found it on sale at walmart.com for $43.37 – so I ordered one. This is how things unfolded: June 13 – email from walmart.com confirming my order. Estimated arrival, June 18. June 17 – email from walmart.com saying “We're very sorry, but due to high demand, one or more of your items is delayed. We're working hard to fulfill them as fast as we can.” June 18 – checked on-line at walmart.com, and the item is showing “Out of stock.” June 19 – email from walmart.com saying “Thanks for your recent order. We're really sorry, but the items shown below were canceled due to a system error that kept us from processing orders.” June 21 – checked on-line at walmart.com, and the item is back in stock, but the price is now $53.37. I’m in no rush to re-order, because it’s still available for less on Amazon. July 1 – FedEx delivers the clamp. The enclosed Packing Slip indicates it was shipped direct from Kreg and billed to Walmart. There have been no charges posted to my credit card. July 7 – still no charge on my credit card. Called walmart.com Customer Service and explained the whole deal to a guy, and told him I owe them $43.37 plus tax. He said that requires a “manual billing,” and he can’t handle that, but would take down all the notes and “escalate” it to his supervisor. He sent me an email while we were still on the phone, confirming our conversation and indicating that “the process could take up to one week to complete.” July 25 – no further contact from walmart.com, and still no credit card charge. I decided to take the clamp out of its package and give it a try. Self-adjust doesn’t work – I can’t clamp anything thicker than about 3/8”. Poetic justice, maybe? July 27 – called Kreg customer service. Consistent with everything I’ve heard, they’re great. Ben walks me through a couple of procedures to try to free up the self-adjusting mechanism – no joy. He says he’ll get a replacement sent out ASAP. July 30 – replacement clamp arrives. Works great. It’s not as handy as the Sjobergs product, but for a little more than half the price, it’s a good deal. And since I seem to have gotten it for free, it’s an exceptional deal.
  8. 6 points
    Made some good headway on this in the past week. First up was to mark the curves on the sides assemblies, cut the curves, and then clean up the band saw cut. I'm not sure if I've posted the trick I use for walnut. I start by marking out what i need in pencil, using a bit more pressure to get a heavier line but also put down a heavier mark. After marking the heavy mark with a regular pencil I go over the whole line with a white charcoal pencil. I think Marc talked about options for walnut once but finding the pens he talked about recently was difficult. I find this method works really well. I do the same thing for cut lines if the wood is extra dark as well. I feel it gives me a great balance of precision and visibility and ease of marking. After marked out I cut to the line at the band saw. Visibility at the band saw is important, band saws seem like they are difficult to light well. Cleanup was done with a spoke shave at the bench. For some reason my shave was chattering real bad on this walnut. I stopped half way through and sharpened the shave but that didn't make any difference. I'm not sure if the width of the material has an impact on that or not. In the end i got everything cleaned up and removed the chatter marks with a card scraper. After all the curves were cut and cleaned up on the sides, the sides got assembled. After assembling the sides i started working on the back side of the sideboard. I wanted to make a back but didn't want to have to deal with making panels and dealing with wood movement. So i decided to go for plywood. To mount the plywood i created a rabbet on the back pieces and will fill in the panels with ply at a later time. I wasn't overly concerned with the exact rabbet size but was shooting for 3/16". Any more than that may have caused interference with joinery. To set my fence i cut 2 pieces at 3/16" thick and used them as spacers to set the fence. Then I just router the rabbets in. Skipping where the vertical braces go. And a dry assembled picture for some clarity. After this is done i need to work on assembling some sub assemblies. This is goign to be far too complicated to try and glue together all in 1 go. I should be able to break it into 4-5 sub assemblies that I then glue together. This is going quick. I'm excited to get started on the doors and drawers.
  9. 5 points
    Well I didn't forget about this. Went away this weekend, but did some work on it during the week and today after we got home. Here's my progress so far. The hull of the boat is pretty much done, last step was to glass the outside, after a quick sanding. This went smoothly and all my experience glassing boards really paid off. Here's the glassing laid out; Now with the epoxy; Time to move to the top deck. First forms for the strips were hot glued in place. this was a little bit of a headache, but it worked out; The top of the forms were covered with packing tape; First strip went around the outside. The strips have a bead on one side and a cove on the other. The bead needs to face out, cove facing in, and you want the first strip to slightly overhang the hull. This first strip needed to be glued together with a scarf joint to get one long enough. The curvature is rather extreme, esp from the sitting area to the stern. The first strip was nailed in place onto the forms and once the second strip is glued on it starts to hold it's shape: I ended up with 3 strips of walnut glued together to form the outer perimeter. Then I ripped the cove off two strips, glued them together and they will form the center strip, bead facing out so I have everything lined up in the right direction, bead and cove wise, here you can see the center strip in place; Now it's a matter of filling the space between the outside perimeter and the center strip, using creative license to mix and match different woods; So I hope to get the deck put together this week, then it will be carefully removed from the hull. Right now some nails are holding it in place. I sure hope it comes off in one piece! Thanks for looking.
  10. 5 points
    So today after taking the past week to work on garage organization, I decided to do the final major glue up for the side board. I knew this one was going to be stressful just because of the number of pieces. I needed to mate the 2 sides with the front and back and then have the drawer supports in the middle. To give my self enough time I used epoxy with some filler to stop it from running all over the place. It's a good thing I used epoxy. Mid glue up i found out one of my joints was way off so i had to make a quick adjustment with the domino mid glue. I swore I did a dry assembly of this multiple times.... Can see a bit of the side pannels here. Because epoxy takes so long to cure I used the time to work on some cupcake stands for the wedding in December. These are simple boxes that we'll just stack and put cupcakes on. I'm using tulip poplar to get rid of it. I found i really dislike the smell of tulip poplar so I'll be happy to have it out of my shop. The construction is a simple miter joint that I'm reinforcing with redwood splines for a bit of interest. Because poplar is super boring i'll be giving these a spray of dye before the final top coat. I'm also making 2 sets. The first set is done picture below for what it'll look like.
  11. 5 points
    That green isn't going to 'sneak' anywhere!
  12. 5 points
    They only had green, and black in stock. I didn't want any more black tool cabinets in there. They make the whole building look too dark. I figured I was going to end up with one of each color anyway. Still much organizing to do. These are really decent, for what they cost.
  13. 5 points
    I drove from Calgary to our campsite in Radium, BC. My trusty V6 Accord got 5.5L/100kM, or almost 43 miles/US gallon. Mountain driving. Pretty good for a car that will do 0-60 in 5.5 seconds.
  14. 5 points
    I did get my sheet sandpaper from klingspor but will refrain from posting pictures so as to not create any sanding envy.
  15. 5 points
    Watched some pipe go in the ground. Feels wrong getting paid to watch people work but some one has to do it.
  16. 5 points
    Let's keep this thing moving forward. Important steps today, did the filleting and glassing of the inside of the hull. It takes 4 steps pretty much in succession. I mixed a lot of epoxy. No mess of fish yet @Chip Sawdust! So I started with removing all the wires and fitting some blocks to the stern area. These will be imbedding in epoxy. You can just do and end pour after the construction and fill this area with epoxy, adding rigidity and allowing for a hole to be drilled thru the stern for a rope handle. I'm accomplishing this with these blocks, it does save some weight; Next it the filleting of the seams. This is pronounce fill-it, and basically that's what you are doing to the seams. You mix epoxy to peanut butter consistency by adding wood flour and load it into a bag and squirt it along the seams like a baker puts icing on a cake. Seems like a lot of food references doesn't it. Well you have to work fast on this step because the mass of epoxy will start to heat up and kick into hardening mode. Spreading it out allows for the heat to dissapate and it doesn't set as fast once you get it into the seams. So no pics of the process, just the finished product, you want just enough to fill the seams, any more doesn't add strength, just extra weight; Once the fillets start to set you move on to glassing the seams, Here is the glass prior to wetting with epoxy; The smoother your fillets the better you glassing looks. After you place the glass you wet it with epoxy and coat the inside of the boat with epoxy; Soon after this step you move on to glassing a sheet of glass in the floor of the hull where you sit. This just adds some rigidity and strength to this area. Here it is with the glass in place and wetted with epoxy, it's hard to see but if you look close you'll see the glassing; Oh, and here's a pic of the stern where the blocks are imbedded in epoxy and wood flour; So one more step today, I need to fill the weave of the glass in the seating area of the hull, this is done with a coat of epoxy. A lot of steps but it went fast, this project is much easier than I thought it would be so far. My experince glassing surf boards really helps here. On tap this week is to flip the boat over, sand and shape the exterior surface of the hull. Not a lot of sanding and shaping, rounding over sharp angles and sanding epoxy drips. Once the hull is sanded it's on to glassing the outside of the hull. Thanks for looking!
  17. 4 points
    Haven't made much headway with it being hot and humid the last couple of weeks. I did solve one minor problem: the cord on my DC blower was too short to get to the outlet from the new position - by about a foot. I suppose I should have replaced it, but I forgot about it until it was up and fastened I place. It's too heavy for me to lift down, so I made an extension cord for it: At least the breaker didn't blow when I tested it
  18. 4 points
    Got my hinges finally. They were supposed to be here Thursday. These as really nice no play and really smooth feeling. They provide double the screws you need in both steel and bronze. I also got knobs of the same finish.
  19. 4 points
    I solved that problem by screwing and glueing a 2" thick piece of harwood below the holes, then drilled through them to give me a 4 1/2 hole that safely takes my Gramercy hold fasts without a problem.
  20. 4 points
  21. 4 points
    My garage is a mess always has been. I don't use it for much more than parking cars in so I never really give it much attention. This past week the junk sitting all over has finally bothered me enough to do something about it. I still had some plywood left over from the shed build so I figured I'd get 2 birds stoned and free up some shed space and build a couple storage cabinets. First was just an open shelf. It's ugly I messed up the measurements and the shelves are all different depths. I used glue and screws, took maybe 2 hours. I only used my track saw and a drill to make it. It works, maybe some day I'll paint it. Next was a "base" cabinet that would co underneath that shelf. I made the carcass all with the track saw and used the table saw to make the drawers. I probably had 2 hours into the carcass and 3 hours into the drawers and mounting. I need to put everything away yet but the bulk of the work is done. Drawers are 3" tall with an inch spacer between them that acts as a runner. I glued and nailed the drawers together and they are quite strong. This drawer probably has 75 lbs in it. Even thouge it's a hardwood runner and plywood drawer bottom it still slides extremely easily for the weight. Ad a shot of the whole messy area. The bikes get a lot of use so i had to make sure they were still accessible. Megan and I go for a 4 mile ride nearly every night. We started August of 2019 and our average speed was 8.4 mph. Last night we did the exact same route and averaged 13.9 mph and it felt like less work than the first time. This picture is for @Coop. Tomatoes are almost ripe. Side note do you see any problem with letting the plants get as tall as they want? If they get much taller I'm going to need 8 foot stakes.
  22. 4 points
    A few days ago the sky was vivid orange yellow. A storm was rolling through. Not great pictures but interesting. These are not modified this is honestly what it looked like.
  23. 4 points
    See Drew? That degree was worth something, after all!
  24. 4 points
    Woodcraft is running a sale the month of Aug on the Shinto 9" rasp $10 off $29.99 normally now 19.99. I really like this tool and $20 bucks is a great price.
  25. 4 points
    You might do it with a router, using a long straigh bit, and an angled base. But you also could have cut the whole thing with hand tools in the time it took to collect these answers...
  26. 4 points
    Mt Washington yes Borah Peak no and probably not Yes the glacier was almost gone in 2012 when I was there, sad. All that was left... You can't even tell I had been puking for almost 2 days straight when I got to the top LOL It was a tough climb for different reasons, lots of dust, and the food well lets just say it didn't go well for me LOL. Having said that its really nice having porters and not having to carry 75lb pack for days on end, took a little getting used to though. Not really a huge animal guy but the safari I took was simply amazing I plan to take my wife back for a safari. Totally do it the safari was amazing! The first pic was actually from the climb the rest were from the 2 day safari I took Brings back memories I cant believe it was 8 years ago time flies.
  27. 3 points
    This doesn't exactly fit this thread, since these are more research about Timber Framing, than style references for furniture, so if there is a better place to put this, feel free. I'm planning to build a timber framed boathouse. There are no plans yet, other than simply that I want it to be fancy, have Cypress shingle roof, and have vertical posts fairly easily replaceable without major jacking required of the whole assembly. I've done some timber framing over the years, and am not worried about any part of the building, but I wanted books to get ideas. I have some that I bought back in the '70's, so I went looking for some that I didn't have. I ordered 3 from Lee Valley. The first on the recommended list is: Master's Guide to Timber Framing by James Mitchell It's superb for a how-to. There are many pages of the type of drawings like you used to see in Fine Woodworking magazine, that make construction details visually apparent how they work. There is some history, enough structural engineering to get by with, and some nice pictures. If you want to do some timber framing, but don't know much about it, or like me, have done some, but want to know more about it, buy this book. The second most recommended, by me, is this one: Advanced Timber Framing by Steve Chappell That's the same Chappell family that makes the nice, stainless steel framing squares. This book is SUPERB!!!! It's printed in best quality materials, and methods, and is a Fine coffee table book, if nothing else. There are many pages of high quality color pictures, printed with High quality printing. It also has lots of useful information on the craft. Even if you won't ever do any Timber Framing, this one is worth it to have. I've bought any other, older printings of timber framing books, as I could find on ebay, but none come close to offering what these two books do. There is another good one, that I consider worth having. It's the third one I ordered from Lee Valley. It does have some information in it that the other two don't have, but not necessary to know beyond the first two on this list, so use your own judgement about adding this one. A Timber Framer's Workshop by Steve Chappell I'm very glad that I ordered all three.
  28. 3 points
    Summer Greetings from Tokyo Japan Japanese rainy season: Tsuyu of this year was record long. Every day was rainy in July. It is really rare. And also, COVID-19 is coming back powerfully. In these situations, please look at my works below. Thank you Yoshii New one: Just before: Popular: All of mine: https://www.youtube.com/user/myoshiiky
  29. 3 points
    We call those Dodges here in the States.
  30. 3 points
    You've never duct taped stupid to a basketball pole just to be rid of them. It works pretty well. 2nd best way, it only works in winter, is to tell them said pole tastes like maple syrup.
  31. 3 points
    My highest climb in the last 30 years is a barstool.
  32. 3 points
    Only if you're insured with Farmers. https://www.ispot.tv/ad/Am19/farmers-insurance-hall-of-claims-billy-goat-ruffians
  33. 3 points
    How well I know. I have been going to WWA meetings on Monday night for almost 10 years now.
  34. 3 points
    Was not for me but a resident on one of our projects made our company this bowl. It's boxelder. Deceptively light.
  35. 3 points
    I loved truck driving. Great money, and a lot of freedom, from unnecessary people and problems, and there is a beautiful country to see and visit, especially if you own your truck.
  36. 3 points
    It's to bad but probably true. Anytime you try and shove everyone through the same hole you most assuredly are not getting the best out of everyone's abilities. I loved college (went as an adult) but it isn't for everyone that's for sure. I crack up every year I do my SIL's taxes and see his 6 figure income on a high school diploma and a CDL. I know a lot of college graduates that would love to make that kind of money and honestly be as happy as he is in is profession.
  37. 3 points
    Woodturners Worldwide is hosting an on line symposium Sept 24 through 26 of 2020. Registration fee is $79 until midnight July 31, then goes to $99. https://www.woodturnersworldwide.com/
  38. 3 points
    I have a woodworking related delivery tomorrow also but it's sandpaper so the excitement is rather nonexistent.
  39. 3 points
    New tool came today. Not for woodworking. It's to break the nuts loose holding blades on a big rotary cutter. Typically, you need an Oxy/Acetylene torch to remove them, but I've had to get in too big of a hurry putting fires out doing that. There's always some detritus on top of the stump jumper, and the gearboxes always leak some grease down onto those too. The big one is what came today. It's a 1" drive breaker bar. Next to it are a 1/2" breaker bar, and a 1/2" wrench for size comparison. It weighs about 15 pounds. I bought some 1" drive sockets, and extensions for working on the tractor, but the only drivers I have with 1" drive are torque wrenches. The big torque wrench, that maxes at 1500 ft.lb. got up to 1200, without breaking a nut loose, and I didn't want to push it any farther. I don't know the bolt size, but it takes a 1-7/8" socket to fit the nut. As big as this thing is, it will still have two pipes on the handle to break the locking nuts loose, and that's after heating past the point to break loose the Locktite.
  40. 3 points
    Look it's drawer parts! Due to some unfortunate circumstances involving a featherboard covering up my routing and the gap in the fence not representing the bit like I thought it was, I plowed right through all 10 of the drawer fronts on the side. So I spent today repairing them Once I sand and finish, I think they'l be fine. And man do I regret not getting either maple or walnut plywood for drawer bottoms. Tomorrow I'll be doing nothing but milling and resawing.
  41. 3 points
    I just bought some of these vents from Amazon, but haven't had a chance to swap them yet. These do have a little cap you can lose, but I'm pretty good at keeping up with stuff, and the caps look like tire valve caps. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZT3GPKR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I bought one other type, off ebay, several years ago, but never got around to trying it. edited to add: can't find it-might not be available any more. It was similar to the ones in the Amazon link. All the plastic, snap in vents leak, and they get so they're harder than they should be to snap them closed. I'll see if I can find a link to the vent I bought off ebay. When drilling the plastic cans, a brad point bit works a lot better than a twist drill, for making a pretty hole, without distortion. Still haven't painted this tractor, but it's done a lot of work since I took these pictures. Still using the offroad diesel from this fillup at $1.44 a gallon. Replaced the aggravating alligator clips for the 12v pump with nice SAE plugs mounted to the machine screw posts on the new marine batteries in the tractor-work first time, every time.
  42. 3 points
    @Gary Beasley I want a small bowl out of this curly piece. Curly White oak. Bmac not getting this piece!
  43. 3 points
    I did Mt Whitney (highest in lower 48) and Half Dome in Yosemite a couple of times. I just did Mt Lassen for the second time last week, its only 10,467 but at 68 yrs of age I am starting to think those days are behind me.
  44. 3 points
    Installed the sink and faucet prior to doing the epoxy so that all I have to do is add silicone and mount everything. The sink is held with silicone as well as 6 threaded inserts screwed/epoxied into the underside of the counter. I will use those to attach the brackets too., FWIW doing this inside was a royal PITA, I would highly recommend doing it in the garage where you have access to all sides unless you have no choice. I had the walls and upper bar masked off with plastic as well but missed getting pics. basically if you don't want it to get wrecked you have to tape it off. Then you have to pull the tape after a couple hours so the epoxy does not dry and have tape lines. You can use a heat gun to soften it up if necessary but watch out for the plastic, don'task me how I know LOL
  45. 3 points
    For today I now have what looks like a kayak. On tap was to finish stitching, working and getting alighment of the panels correct, and tacking the panels together with epoxy. Here's the kayak after stitching; Checking out to make sure there is no twist in the kayak; It's amazing how simple it was to get to this stage. There is a lot of stress on the wires in some areas, but it still is not too hard to coax the panels together. Here is the tacking of the joints with epoxy. I was told to mix it with wood flour until it was the consistency of ketchup. It seems like they use a lot of condiment references in the manual; Then the bow and stern will filled in with a peanut butter consistency of wood flour and epoxy; After 24 hrs I'll take out the wires and do my fillets. This will be the glue mixture that "holds the kayak together. If this seems wierd or you think I just like making food refernces, you'll have to look at my next post to see what I'm talking about. Thanks for looking.
  46. 2 points
    And I bet it isn't doing a lick of good.
  47. 2 points
    I've put a lot of thought into the mechanism for raising and lowering the infeed table. Matthias used a parallelogram while John used an inclined plane. Both used a hand wheel for raising and lowering the table and an infinitely adjustable table seems to be the standard. I don't think that's necessarily the best solution though. It's very easy to adjust the table on my jointer but I rarely do. If I set it to a heavy cut and then forgot to set it back when I finish then surprise! next time I use it. There's a little tiny red pointer and a scale but the pointer barely moves from a light cut to a heavy cut and it's just not obvious that it's set to something different. So I had the realization that I really have no need to adjust the infeed table precisely to a certain value. I just want to be able to set it quickly to a few depths of cut and have it be really obvious which one it's set to. I figured the easiest way to have that was to have the table sitting on cams. I made a crude mock up of this: Absent are the four locking knobs that would go through the sides of the jointer into the table and constrain the horizontal movement of the table. The levers are spring loaded so they lock back into the notches after moving them. The advantage of using cams is that the shape of the cam controls how much lift you get for a given rotation so the mechanism can be compact but still have the indicator of the setting move a large amount. The big problem with this, besides the annoyance of having to release and tighten 4 knobs every time, is that if you lower the end by the cutterhead first then you're angling the table into the cutterhead. I could link the two levers together but that doesn't solve the issue because the table could still get hung up from the friction with the jointer sides and come down at an angle anyway. So I would have to allow extra clearance between the cutterhead and table. Thinking about it more, if I do a parallelogram but extend the links I can get the end of the link to move through a large enough arc to do the same thing. With that approach I have the option of controlling it from there or to add in the conventional hand wheel. And there's no need for the locking knobs. Probably headed to the lumberyard in the morning to pick up two sheets of baltic birch
  48. 2 points
    There’s a joke here somewhere...
  49. 2 points
    Been a long time since I have seen someone cut a 12/4 white oak board lengthwise no less, scratch that i've never seen it! That must have been some workout. Having said that if your saw is as sharp as the chisels you were using probably not that bad lol. That was some beautiful pairing with the chisel. The table is gonna look spectacular!
  50. 2 points
    Coat it with fiberglass & resin, like a boat.