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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/14/19 in Posts

  1. 13 points
    Yeah so I'm supposed to be working on dining chairs. My excuse was I needed to get material before i could progress on the project but in reality I really wanted to make something for my shop. So while i waited for a chance to get a lumber order into my schedule I grabbed a bunch of the 8/4 cherry i got a good deal on.Why cherry? Because everyone does maple and I want to do something different.. ( I also got the cherry for a steal. I didn't want to be wasteful with the lumber and the boards I had were odd widths. Everything was 7-7/8" wide which is frustrating. So i ripped half the boards I needed with 1 extra. I then took the too narrow boards and proceeded to make them wider. This is a bench not a piece of furniture so if some glue seams show up on end grain so be it. Odds are it's not going to be noticeable. The boards I laminated to get the needed thickness were placed towards the center. I also had some boards with heavy wane. I made sure that I coordinated them within the slab and used them as the picture below shows better than I can explain. Yep there is a big void in the center of my bench towards the bottom. Do I care? Heck no! it's going to be buried inside the bench never to be seen what does it matter? One of the boards had some really awesome figure. So I pulled one piece of that board out to make it the front laminate. The 2nd board was used as the show face of the rear slab. The board for the rear slab was a tiny bit thin so there is a piece laminated to the bottom. I tried to grain match it some and get a similar color board. In the end it's hard to tell and I'm happy with it. After lots of milling and emptying this thing twice, I got al the material for the slabs milled and together. I even used cherry dominoes for alignment. I used Marc's hit and miss planing method to somewhat straiten the boards. This worked well and left me a LOT more material than he ended up with. I was able to do my rear slab with 6 pieces instead of 7 and my front is 4 pieces with a random stick of 3/4" thrown in for some extra width. While gluing the slabs together I was worried i was going to induce a bow. These boards were NOT strait at this point. I rotated them to offset as much as possible but in the end the chance that the slabs would be strait is low. SO i stacked the deck in my favor. Bent lamination uses a form to hold a curve the opposite can also be done. So i grabbed the front laminate strip and jointed it perfectly strait. I then rotated it and clamped it along both slabs during glue up and this will ensure that the side is strait and because all the boards are an even thickness everything is parallel. In practice this worked just as well as in theory. My 52" veritas strait edge confirmed that these guys are laser strait. I used some winding sticks and confirmed that they were free of twist. Holy !!!!! These things are heavy! Next up is end cap and the mortise and stuff. I trimed the front slab to length and then cut the tenon. I glued up some walnut that I scored of C_list a while ago for cheap. This stuff was some guys shorts, and were like 18" long and perfect for this. The color ended up being surprisingly beautiful. I cut the mortise in the end cap easy peasy. I extended the mortise and am setting my bench up to be able to come apart. I don't have the BC hardware yet and will probably use this bench for a while before I buy the tail vise. I'll buy the leg vise prior to completing the bench. So I drilled the holes in the end cap and am using some 6" long spax screws to attach it to the front slab. Now the first big OH !@$(%! moment happens. I realized I drilled the internal hole with a 1-3/8" forstner bit instead of a 1-1/2" bit. So taking a breath I grabbed a block of walnut because it's what i had sitting in the scrap bin. I drilled a hole all the way through like 1/16", this is the guide for the forstner bits. I drilled one side with the 1-3/8" bit and the other with the 1-1/2" bit. I used the smaller bit to line up the block on the outside of the bench. I fed it through the inside as seen below. Once i had the block lined up on the outside I used the 1-1/2" bit to drill the rest of the way through the guide block and into the end cap. After I got a good way into the end cap i took everything apart and finished the hole on the drill press to make sure that it was strait. Next is the dog hole strip. After reading the part on this. I decided my time was worth more than the cool factor of square dogs. So I glued up three 3/4" pieces and made the dog hole strip. To get everything lined up I ran dominoes through all 3 laminations and into the bench. The dominoes were 65mm long and this worked flawlessly. So here we sit. As i work through this I'll hit periods where glue needs to dry. I"m going to take that time to work on the templates for the dining chairs and get the bent lamination mold for the back rest started. This walnut color is going to look awesome with finish.
  2. 10 points
  3. 7 points
    Took all of your suggestions plus my wife’s and “equally” weighted them. Real photos to come, but this project is a wrap!
  4. 6 points
    Can't help it. I got end cap cut to length. Laid out the dovetails on the front laminate, cut on the band saw and transferred to the end cap. I routed out the first 1/4" and did all the chiseling. I know people in the past have talked about how cutting these tails causes a bit of a pucker factor. So i dug out my short mortising bit. It's only 1/4" cutting length so it made the routing a lot easier of a process. I still had to switch to a longer bit for the final cuts but getting a good 3/4" out of the way with the smaller bit helped. It probably also helped that I was using walnut. This stuff cuts like a hot knife through butter. The fit isn't perfect but it holds the front laminate in place and looks good. There are a few gaps but i'll try and take care of those with sanding.
  5. 5 points
    Looks great, but I'm not sure how you pass this off as part of a dinning room chair. By the way, that was a clever solution on the Forstner fumble.
  6. 4 points
    I cut the mortises on the chair arms, thru mortises for the front legs. Once I had this done I was able to cut the curve on the top of the top rail. I roughed it out on the bandsaw and cleaned it up with the router and a pattern I made of the underside curve on the arm piece. I am real happy with the way it all came out if I do say so myself. After this I built the form and started on the slats for the back rest. First one out of the clamps and cleaned up some. After I got the slat glue ups going I was working on some detail work on the stool legs and managed to get my head pretty far up my back side and screwed up the last leg beyond repair, a pretty disheartening moment. So I quietly and calmly hung up my apron and walked out of the shop for a few days. I figure redoing one leg is is going to take some effort to get it sized and all the mortises lined up and cut to match the other three, so clearing to ol' noodle was in order. During my "time off" I have been wondering if it would just be best to redo all 4, we'll see. Also I ordered this piece of copper, I think that copper pivot and adjustment pins will look nice against the sapele.
  7. 4 points
    Been working as a Christmas Elf for the past few weeks, trying to think up some simple gifts. Made some candleholders, a few bigger pieces of furniture, some boxes based on @gee-dub continuous grain boxes, great link here... But @Gary Beasley got me thinking when he was begging for slabs from @Spanky to make some bowls. Well I'm not much of a bowl turner, but with the development of my sculpting skills I thought this might be a great gift idea. Went out to my drying piles where slabs hold down the roofing, lean against the back of a drying shed, and a few extra ones are lying around waiting to be chainsawed into fire wood. I grabbed a walnut and cherry slab along with a hunk of paulownia. After knocking off all the bark I cut the slabs into chunks and jointed/planed to thickness. The thickness was dependent on the usable wood in the hunk. Then I drew random bowl shapes onto the hunks, avoiding cracks and defects. Once again the wood dictated the shape I drew. Now it was outside my shop where I completed aggressive wood removal with the angle grinder. After a few days and some sanding, scraping and anything I had to smooth the bowl, I had 10 great looking organic shaped bowls. All the slabs were a few years old and dry, hoping no cracks develop but we'll soon find out. Here are what I saved from the fireplace; Second batch; Not bad for a few days of grinding and shaping. Thanks for looking.
  8. 3 points
    Check out this Ambrosia Maple bowl that Gary turned.
  9. 2 points
    Hello all. I’m new on these pages although I’ve been reading you folk for quite some time. I’m a pro. For the last forty odd years I’ve been primarily a builder, homes for the most part, also a cabinetmaker, stair maker , and maker of fine furniture when time allows. For all of my working life I have supported myself working with wood. No claim to fame or that of being a master anything, just a guy who really knows his way around a job site or a shop and is comfortable in either or both, a bit old school in my ways and thinking. so to the meat of this thread. New table saw for the shop. This won’t be my first saw by any means, I’m hopeful it will be my last. I want a well built heavy saw with a nice flat table a good fence and a lot of power. That is really what a good table saw is, nothing more nothing less. All the technology, bells and whistles add nothing to a saw without the first three thing’s mentioned. After a lot of soul searching, no brand loyalty, and a healthy budget, I zeroed in on a Grizzly G1023rlwx 5 HP. It is being delivered tomorrow. The only thing I might not be completely satisfied with might be the fence, no micro adjustment for one thing. I have indeed worked over one of these machines and was impressed. Hope I made a wise choice.
  10. 2 points
    That Northfield makes my g1023 a woosie.
  11. 2 points
    Very fine work Chet and coming along nicely. It’s a shame about the stool leg but we all have made mistakes from time to time, you did what I would have done, walk away take a breath and start again. It will be long forgotten when you’re relaxing in that fine chair
  12. 2 points
    Dave, we are going to Fall Creek Falls State Park today. If Coop gets his wife on the swinging bridge and she puts a goose egg on his head I will get you a pic.
  13. 2 points
    Dave, I picked up a new buddy today. He came with a pair of work gloves and they were not new gloves. But, I didn’t get a pic of him.
  14. 2 points
    Thanks all for the kind words. @treeslayer I love the idea of sliders but since I curved the bottom of the top rail it makes it hard or impossible. I didn't think it out very well! Also I don't know if anyone noticed by I had like 7 statues when I first started this project. Now I have 19. And 6 more on order. I might have a problem.
  15. 2 points
    My wife requested a side table for the family room. This will be situated between two arm chairs, and replace the small table (which is too high and dominating) ... Not just a side table, but it also needed to house her needlework thingies. In other words, shallow drawers for cotton reels and sewing kit. I played around with several ideas, and eventually came up with a design that borrows a little from a piece I recently made. Lynndy liked the softness of the rounded dovetails and overall dimension of this coffee table I built some months back for a nephew ... The plan (looking down) would be to create a curved front and back, with round, splayed legs to the outside (an alternative is a straight, tapered round leg) ... In contrast to the Jarrah in that piece, the carcase will be built in Hard Maple, dovetailed and mitred at each corner. It will feature 8 drawers. All drawer fronts will curve as well. The reason for "Harlequin" in the title is that the drawers will be a mix of woods, as depicted in the elevation of the drawer section ... A harlequin design is often thought of as a diamond pattern, but does also include a rectangular checkerboard. Anyway, it's just a name, and I like giving my pieces a name At this stage I have chosen for the drawer fronts Black Walnut and Blue Gum. I may also add in Hard Maple. Always interested in your thoughts here. The Blue Gum is lighter than the Black Walnut and is a good foil against the Hard Maple … The legs will taper and curve from the carcase, attached with a loose mortice and tenon ... The sides and top were arranged so that the grain flowed continuously. The carcase is 20mm thick, 800mm long and 350 at the wide, centre point .. The initial dovetail plan was to keep the boards parallel and saw the curves later. It became apparent when joining the first set that this would not work ... .. there would be too much at the sides to mitre, and so I decided to shape the top and bottom panels at this stage rather than later. This was the first opportunity to use the modification I made to my Moxon vise (see article: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/NewMoxonMods.html). It now enables the pin- and tail boards to be clamped together to aid in marking out (see earlier photo). In marking out for mitred corners, the side tails are not sawn out from the front ... ... the board is reversed, and the mitres are marked ... ... and sawn ... The reason I had wanted to retain square carcase sides was that it would make it easier to square the chisel guide for the mitres. I got around this by squaring them to the front of the carcase ... The pin board is seen here ... One of the difficulties in fitting this many tails and pins is that any slight errors are magnified. The fit below illustrates that the left side is too tight ... To deal with this, the tails were given a pencil scribbling ... Fitting the board together left this behind ... This process needed to be done once more, before the fit was satisfactory ... The four sides were dry fitted together, and the front and rear upper and lower panels planed to shape (this was close but not enough) … All is coplanar … Where we are up to at the end of today … One set of mitred corners … … and the other … Next up is building the internal dividers for the drawers. Regards from Perth Derek
  16. 1 point
    I started this Morris Chair project about 3 weeks back. I wasn't really planning on doing a detailed journal, but I have been taking photos along the way and thought I would share them here. I am making this out of Sapele. When I first started thinking about this project 3 or 4 years back I was planning on doing it in Quarter Sawn White Oak but for some reason the lumber yards around here aren't carrying much 8/4 inventory. They are nice enough to offer to order what I need but this does give me an opportunity to select my pieces. I have done some other projects in Sapele and have really enjoyed it and I think this will end up looking good. Once I got the initial dimensions down I haven't used the guild plans much, I did how ever watch the videos a few times so I guess it all the same. I am going with a little more traditional thinking in what I do so I am not tapering the legs or doing the curved feature on the bottom side of ht topside rails or the top of the bottom rails and at this time I am planning of going with the straight side pieces for the back rest. This picture below was the inspiration for my design. I saw these in Crater Lake Lodge in Oregon a few years ago They have about 15 of these that were made in the early 1900's These first picture are after a lot of the basic stuff was done. The parts are littered with my chalk and blue tape notations. I used a veneer to cover the glue line on the legs it's just a fuzz of 1/16 inch thick. This picture was before anything was sanded. After this I took it apart and numbered things in inconspicuously located spots like inside the mortise and on the tenons. Then I worked on a detail for the bottom of the bottom rails, I kind of stole or borrowed this design from Mick's chair. I also did a cut out detail in some of the slats. At this point I sanded everything to 150, I will do 180 once I am done "banging" things up and before the glue up. Everything sanded and stacked on the cart. Before I started sanding the other things I got my first arm glued up and in the bending form. I was hoping to stay away from urea and formaldehyde in the glue I used for this so I was looking around at information on the internet, then while listening to one of Phillip Morley's podcast, he mentioned that he used Unibond One for veneer work and he was real happy with it and it doesn't contain anything that makes you worry. Well now I am telling you I am REAL happy with Unibond One. It did a great job, I had just a strong 1/16 worth of spring back and my glue lines are non existent, I am just real pleased with how they came out. I was prepared to do an edge veneer on the arms to hide glue lines if I had to but no need now. Close up of the arm sitting arch up on my saw table. Both arms all cleaned up and cut to size.
  17. 1 point
    I was suggesting the OP build a complete torsion box of engineered material and then attach the top to that, for "show."
  18. 1 point
    Looks great Drew!! BTW it looks to be furniture quality to me It's ok 3 years later I still love looking at my bench, I have no problem with furniture in the shop LOL
  19. 1 point
    Sure, I get that, but in the end it's still a bench. If it doesn't look beat up and used in 10 years you are not really doing work on it. Dog holes round or square? I went with round and am perfectly satisfied.
  20. 1 point
    I generally check it every 2-3. After awhile the lever gets worn down...
  21. 1 point
    Looking good, and I like the fact that you understand this is a workbench, not a piece of fine furniture! What are you using for the legs, Cherry? By the way, you can't put off those chairs forever.
  22. 1 point
    Welcome to the forums. Are your layers solid oak or oak ply? How big is this going to be? Not sure I'd want to use solid wood for a torsion box because of wood movement. As for the grid, ply or MDF work just fine. I built 2 using MDF and then surrounded with a hardwood trim.
  23. 1 point
    That is shaping up to be one beauty of a bench!
  24. 1 point
    Looking good so far Drew! I figured with the planer purchase this might be happening soon.
  25. 1 point
    Ahhh time for case #2? It doesn't look like you have much space left.
  26. 1 point
    Great job, Cliff. As others have said, learning to repair/recover from mistakes is a big part of woodworking. We all make them. Almost is if it had been planned, fully half the students in the class I'm teaching this semester spent the last class repairing mistakes - dominos that din't align, making a frame a ½" short because he wrote the length down wrong, hinges that didn't line up, etc. We all make them and coming back from 6 80 hour weeks doesn't make it any easier! Nice recovery and beautiful project. That's some gorgeous walnut!
  27. 1 point
    Sanding and cleanup left for the base. And a back. Finishing later. Flush drawers always add time. The color variation will be minimized in the finishing. Next I will build the shelving that will be above the base. I think the furniture type of the 2 pieces is hutch.
  28. 1 point
    Popped in the glass sides. Lights. Rigged up the power. Nothing fancy. Plugged into a wemo outlet so I can turn it on and off with my phone. A look at he empty shelves Final finished shots. I think I'm skipping doors on this. I think it will only detract from the statues. Also, I'm not pointing out anymore flaws. Though there were plenty :D Thanks all for taking a look at my first true furniture build.
  29. 1 point
    I never understood why other people talk so poorly about the middle of nowhere. It's such a great place, no people and more freedom to do what ever you want.
  30. 1 point
    I knew there was at least one reason I like living in the middle of nowhere!
  31. 1 point
    At this point I’m not really considering any latch. If the doors end up trying to wander open, I’d just put a small magnet in the divider above the drawers to hold them shut.
  32. 1 point
    I liked Marc's breadbox build very much. Alison liked most of it. We compromised and below is the result. Air-dried walnut with ambrosia maple door and drawer, with ebony pulls.
  33. 1 point
    Almost done! I made a couple poplar prototype pulls for the doors. I had planned on making ones that were inspired by @gee-dub’s example on page 2 of this thread. Once I moved to the cherry and added the curve to the front, I ended up with almost an exact copy, sorry and thanks gee-dub. I thought about simply drilling a hole in the drawers as a pull, but it just didn’t seem quite right for this piece. I grabbed a piece of MDF and sketched out more of a V notch and then rounded it out. Ended up with this And then I used blue tape and CA glue to use the MDF template and a pattern bit to cut the drawer fronts. One coat of finish on the pulls and drawers.
  34. 1 point
    As mentioned, there many books out there that are worth buying. One that I've found helpful is New Woodworker Handbook by Tom Hintz, https://www.amazon.com/New-Woodworker-Handbook-Spending-Working/dp/1565232976/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=tom+hintz&qid=1570302356&sr=8-2
  35. 1 point
    Welcome! My advice is pick an entry level project or even a difficult one and start researching what you need to learn in order to complete it. FWIW this is my advice on tools as well pick the project and buy the tools as you need them. As things come up ask questions here there is a lot of knowledge on this site and folks are very willing to share.
  36. 1 point
    Then he'd have to re-paint it red, with flames.
  37. 1 point
    Of course the real test will be Antiques Road Show.
  38. 1 point
    Drill a hole for finger pull.
  39. 1 point
    Drawer dovetails are cut. Need to rout the groove for the drawer bottom and glue them up, then sand and finish. I’m thinking I’ll cut out section of the front as a place to pull the drawer out, but I’m not completely set on that.
  40. 1 point
    Yeah, when he disappeared for a while, I called his shop to make sure something bad hadn't happened. He's still kicking, just busy.
  41. 1 point
    I had emailed him a few months back and he was really busy with his business and a personal matter that he didn't share.
  42. 1 point
    I made some 3/8 shelves today. 3/8 shelves: Top 5/8 and middle 3/8 for comparison.
  43. 1 point
    Had some short pieces of butternut and needed a piece for the church auction, box joints, butternut and walnut, Spanish Cedar interior with a lift out tray, Vertex 90 degree stop hinges, 3 coats ARS satin, thanks for looking and comments and questions are welcome as usual
  44. 1 point
    Beautiful work and good use of the contrasting butternut and walnut. Shows you have a good sense of humidor.
  45. 1 point
    Thanks Drew and Bmac , happy to show a side shot @Bmac
  46. 1 point
    not real common Drew, but there are those of us who appreciate a fine stogie at the end of a long day, I'm curious to see how it does at the silent auction, not for everyone but if you get a couple of guys that want it who knows what they will pay
  47. 1 point
    I've been a lurker here for years reading posts and soaking up knowledge, but I rarely post. I recently took on a project that I felt was well above my skill level, and I learned a lot form it. This post is meant primarily to encourage those who feel they don't have the "right tools" or the skills to go ahead and give it a shot anyway. You'll surprise yourself with what you can do. A bit about me, I am by no means a pro. During college I worked as a framer for about 6 months before my fear of heights got the better of me. I then got a job via classified ad (that'll date me) for a finish carpenter. When I called the number on the ad, the guy asked me only a few questions; 1.) Do you own reliable transportation? 2.) Do you own the following tools: table saw, compound mitre saw, jig saw, router, palm sander, air compressor, nail guns...the list goes on and on. 3.) Can you start tomorrow? I did own a vehicle (that couldn't fit all the tools needed) , I could start the next day, but I didn't own any tools other than framing hand tools (but I said I had them). I went out that night and convinced my young bride that dropping a load of money on these tools for the job was a good idea. So I did. I showed up the next day with a car load of new tools (not the nicest) I'd never used and proceeded to get an education. I had no idea what I was doing, but I made some money and loved the job. I did finish work for about 3 years to put me through school, and that is the extent of my woodworking experience. Fastforward 11 years since I left woodworking to park my butt in the cockpit of a jet for a living, and my wife called upon me to jump into the way-back machine, dust off my tools and build her a new kitchen. I foolishly said okay. This project included gutting our existing kitchen, removing walls and ceiling, rewiring and new pluming, so It was more than just a new cabinet build. Apologies for the mess in the foreground/background. I have kids...and they are messy. Kitchen before: Kitchen after: Loos smaller than before, but the wall to the left includes the pantry with didn't exist before. All in all we gained a lot more usable cabinet space than we previously had. The peninsula with the oven (far left of kitchen) used to have a floor to ceiling wall behind it that blocked the dinning room (where my ladder is sitting), so we lost the upper cabinets there. We doubled the width of the island and added storage on the back and also added 3 feet to the length. Various Details - Vent Hood Back of Island Pantry wall with faux beams Dovetail maple drawers Anyway, that's the gist of it. If I can do it, anyone can. So go ahead and jump in and start something. Reading blogs and watching videos online is great and motivating, but nothing beats making sawdust (and mistakes) in the shop. I may post construction pictures and techniques if there is interest. This was a fun and occasionally frustrating project that took about 6 months from beginning of demolition to finished product.
  48. 1 point
    I’ve always had an interest in building, fixing and DIY. Our family would spend 3 months a year in a very remote fishing village in SE Alaska, so maintaining/building/fixing seems to run in the family DNA. In 2009, we bought our first home – right off a busy street, but super close to my work. It had been a rental for 30+ years before we bought, so there were LOTS of projects… I made cabinet doors, cased windows (so many windows...), remodeled our wood stair case with new pine treads and risers, built a deck, built a bed for one of the kids, and many other projects. Projects need tools, which then allow you to build more projects. I also built tall mirror frames, and other finish pieces for the family. I discovered a passion for woodworking during that time – it relaxes me, and lets me use my hands to create. We also had 2 kids, and about 2 years ago, we decided to sell and move a little way out of the city so the kids could play outside and we wouldn’t have to hear traffic. In early 2016, we bought a new house situated on a little over an acre. Part of the move was to give space for a shop, so I could continue to tinker, create and build, and allowing the Wife to park in the garage for the first time in our 9 year marriage (sorry Babe, just a few more weeks). Once the transaction closed on the new property, we started getting quotes and figuring out what needed to happen to enable to the shop to be built. I had some ideas about what I wanted: 24x36’, 864 sqft. Big enough to park in if necessary, and still have a mostly functioning shop space. Pole building (for cost) Tall interior ceiling height with limited interior roof framing to cast shadows and interfere with work. We’ve elected to go with a shed style roof with glu-lams/LVL's so there’s minimal interior roof structure hanging down to cast shadows and interfere with tall work. The low side will be about 9’ on the inside, while the tall side will be around 15’. Single garage door, I didn’t to lose wall space, and I am not planning to park inside it anyway. I’m also concerned about preventing theft, so minimizing the number of potential entry points was high on my list. My design ideas were influenced by Frank Howarth’s shop, ideas from BubbaEstes’ build, as well as other shops I’ve seen on here and other places, along with our own needs and desires for how the shop should sit on our property, and what we want to do in it. Getting ready to build has taken a year, and we signed our building contract back in June. We had to take care of some septic requirements, namely getting a reserve drainfield identified, having test holes dug, and inspected (“yep, those are holes”). We also had to get some electrical work done, like replacing the panel, setting up for a generator and the shop sub-panel. We were warned to expect the permit process to last for 4-5 months: it was completed in less than 3 weeks. Everyone from the inspectors to the builder were shocked by the speed. In the middle of November, our site prep was completed. One of our main concerns was maintaining the forested nature of our lot: we didn’t want to remove many trees. We took down a couple of tall, thin trees which I'm pretty sure were cherry, a fir, a cedar, and a decent sized maple… the maple will become a Roubo bench someday, and I’ve got a small pile of cherry logs waiting for me to chainsaw mill them down to size. The guy with the excavator did a phenomenal job – the site is cleared and graded for drainage, and he laid down a layer of crushed asphalt as a building pad. I've been pleasantly surprised at how well the asphalt compacts down - it's REALLY solid under foot. We called the builder on 4 December to let them know our site prep was complete, and they told me to expect materials deliveries beginning on Monday 11 December. That same evening (one week early), a guy pulled up in our driveway and dropped off our steel entry door for the shop… Then on Thursday at 6:45 am while at work, I got a phone call from a truck driver, asking where I wanted him to leave the metal panels. By end of the day Thursday, most of the building materials were organized strategically about the site, 3 days early. Construction starts the week of 18 December. I'll keep posting updates and pictures of the build over the next few weeks. Here we go… J
  49. 1 point
    I thought about the webcam, but the Christmas prep, the last minute log move and life in general just got in the way... I didn't have time to do the research and make it happen. I'm off work all next week, and I'll be able to post pictures more frequently. Thanks for the tip on curling the bucket - I tried that, but between the log being pear shaped, and my general lack of excavator skill, I found it easier to strap the dang thing to the bucket with the 15000 lb tow straps. I slabbed up the knuckle where the branches splay out on the bandsaw on Saturday - I'm hoping the rest of the log is as awesome as this part is.
  50. 1 point
    I got around to mounting the grinder on a plywood base along with the Veritas grinder stand that I had previously on another wet grinder. The Epihanes still hadn't dried hard, so you may notice that the nuts to hold the grinder down aren't tightened down yet. I took some pictures. It's unbelievably smooth. With it running, I placed a machine screw on top of the motor on the flat head. Then I thought that was too easy so turned the screw on the other end. I found a hand forged nail nearby, and placed it on its head while the motor was still running. Looking for something else, I found a nickel in my pocket. You may be able to tell in those pictures that the wheel is spinning, so the motor is running. Yes, that's a round top on the motor. It's probably at least 50 times faster than a Tormek, doesn't need water (cuts so fast that it doesn't put heat in the steel), and the wheel will always stay the same diameter. The Stuart Batty gauge in the picture does a perfect job of showing you how to set the stand to grind common cutter angles the first time on an 8" diameter wheel. http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2084638/38159/stuart-batty-tools-angle-gauge-one.aspx Since the wheel will always be an 8" diameter, it was worth its cost for this rig. At this point, I don't know that I need to spend another $175 for the coarse wheel for the right side of this grinder, but have left enough room for a stand on that side of the base in case I decide to get it. The Veritas stands are easily adjustable, but still completely rigid. It does exactly what I hoped it would.