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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/12/19 in Posts

  1. 9 points
    Last week I got to fulfill something on my bucket list. I was able to spend a week taking a class with Chuck Bender working on a Massachusetts serpentine chest. Last August I was diagnosed with prostate cancer, and when the shock wore off, the only thing that I could think that I would like to do would be to take a woodworking class with a professional. Thankfully surgery went well, and after 2 check ups since, no more cancer. While I was home recuperating I stumbled upon Chucks blog and saw that he had moved back to Jim Thorpe Pa. and was offering classes. The minute I saw the picture of the chest I knew I wanted to take the class. Had to borrow from my 401k to swing it but having just hearing a doctor tell me I had cancer I figured I can't take it with me. Chuck is one of the nicest people I have met. Very patient teacher, great sense of humor. And oh, an amazingly talented woodworker. We weren't able to finish the chest in the 5 days and Chuck graciously offer for us to come back on a weekend in November so that he could help us finish. Thank goodness because I definitely don't have the skills yet to finish the chest on my own. Just kinda wanted to share as I felt like this was a big step forward in woodworking for me and this was the first forum. I ever participated in.
  2. 8 points
    Got it finished and in place. I used flood cwf-uv finish because i got it free and why not. Starting to get it filled up.
  3. 8 points
    I'm a big fan of mesquite. Also, the fruit woods, apple, pear, persimmon.
  4. 7 points
    Black walnut bowl about 7” across from a chunk Ricky sent me. Sanded to 320 and Osmo wiped on and buffed. Still needs the backside done.
  5. 7 points
  6. 5 points
    I do love me some mesquite! Mesquite is not the easiest wood to work with, but it's worth the extra effort, IMO. It's high in mineral content which makes it very abrasive to tools. Here's a good write up about the lumber. One thing I will say is that I LOVE the smell in my shop after milling it. Bear in mind that it's roughly twice as hard as red oak, so carbide tooling is very highly recommended. It also has a great deal of color variation, so matching boards can be a challenge. When finished with oil to bring out the figure it's on par with many exotics, and priced accordingly. I'm a west Texas oil trash guy and grew up with it, so I have a real appreciation for finding something beautiful in such an otherwise desolate landscape. When people ask about the projects I've made with it they're shocked, to a person, when I tell them it's mesquite. I get the bulk of mine from Faifer & Co. outside San Antonio, TX. Here are a few of the pieces I've used mesquite in. Floating top table Cutting board with turquoise Medicine cabinet Our kitchen cabinet fronts. Cherry frames. Large charcuterie board for Alison's niece. Black palm feet. Morris chair. Rookhee campaign chair. Just realized I may have a problem...
  7. 5 points
    The owners of the 1850 house, that we put the Cypress Shingle roof on, have had on their to-do list for me to make two pairs of window sash. They are to replace some made in 1982, that don't come close to matching the rest of the originals left in the house. We completely redid all the old ones. For several years, they have asked when I was going to get to it, but other stuff kept coming up. We had taken some of the unused (now that we have new trusses holding the sagging roof back up to a flat plane) brace posts that were in the attic, as part of a poorly designed structure, to get wood out of for the two pairs of sash I need to build. Some of those posts are seen in the first picture. It's all Heart Pine that has been drying in that attic for 169 years. It's not only dry, but Very heavy. I didn't weigh it, but it weighs more than Oak does for pieces the same size. Milling it showed that every piece was also completely stable, and no cut moved the slightest bit. Mike spent his time cleaning them, before I ran them on the jointer to get them ready to go through the table saw for rough sizing. I put an old set of knives in the jointer, because even with Mike's best effort with a wire brush, they had 169 years of dirt on them. I used a set of knives that I had decided to toss anyway, but kept them just for this job. I knew we wouldn't have enough of the Heart Pine, but I had kept some pieces of Heart Cypress from making handrails for this house. I just rough cut the stiles, top and bottom rails, meeting rails, glazing bars, and muntins today. Any sapwood you see on the Cypress parts will be cut off. Everything in the picture is cut oversize. I'll sharpen a new set of knives for that jointer tomorrow, and we'll run them to finish size. Since it's just four of them, I'm going to see how it goes to just run the molding profiles by hand. They're not exactly like any I've seen before, so if we put $1800 in a set of custom router bits, they may never be used again. If I can break even on the cost of the bits, in hand labor, both the owners, and I will be happy. I've made single sash before by hand, but these are large, nine lights, so have a fair number of feet of molding profile, and a lot of tenons to cope. I ended up running a number of extra pieces of the Cypress because I wanted to only use the heart, and cut off any sap wood. We were running close, and the top rails may end up with a small bit of sapwood, but they will be in a protected spot up in the jamb, and the windows will be painted inside, and out with Sherwin-Williams Emerald exterior paint. More pictures, and update the next day we work on them. I'm not sure if that will be tomorrow, or not. They should look just like this one when we get finished. We already have the hand blown cylinder glass cut to the right size 12x14 inch panes.
  8. 5 points
    So I've found my niche. Dice bowls for gamers. Keep your dice contained in style. I've been getting more and more commissions, and I'm not complaining! This weekend I'll be working with some honey locust, paduk and spalted ambrosia maple. Here are some of my latest.
  9. 5 points
    This is not my business, it's my hobby. I'm in my early 50's and do all this work myself. I really look at it as a form of exercise and satisfying my woodworking addiction. I have no desire to do this as a business, but I hope to continue to build for family and friends (3 kids that are between 18-23). My real addiction is probably not knowing when to say enough is enough. So my hoarding is basically the following; self-induced hard labor that keeps me out of trouble, causing me to sweat profusely in the hot/humid August weather, and feeding the woodworking bug. In the end it's probably better than a gym membership!
  10. 5 points
    Been working on this lately. I'm trying to get it done so i can finally consolidate my firewood storage to one spot. Glued the sides together. This guy is nearly 8' long so it was a tricky job. My parallel clamp extenders have been put to use a LOT since i've made them. The center post wasn't supported very well so i ran a brace to the top back rail. I also did a grid system for the bottom with a couple support blocks. I wanted to keep the bottom support quite open so as much air flow can surround the wood as possible. I figure keeping the moisture out will help prevent the storage rack from rotting out. Used my counter sink drill bit i got from rockler to do some free hand pocket holes. I like this bit a lot and do recomend it. It's not the best but it does the trick for me. https://www.rockler.com/8-pro-tapered-countersink-bit I got the doors mounted and found some nice marine hardware that i used for hinges and latches. I'm goign to leave the dog ear on the pickets that overhang the front edge. I set it up and kind of like the look. Unless someone gives me a good reason why this is foolish. I'll post some links to the hardware later. I'm quite impressed with some of the marine hardware that is available on Amazon. Hinges are tight and seem to be well made. You can get them in 316 stainless so it should hold up outdoors for a long time.
  11. 4 points
    Another stressful step done- laying out and drilling holes for the tuners. Layout would have been easy if I had made a template before rounding the edges of the headstock or if I took a few minutes to draw it in CAD, but what fun would that be? The tuner pegs are 6mm and the bushings are something like 8.7mm. The pegs are not centered on the tuner, and there are left/right tuners so you do have to pay attention drilling and installing. I used a compass for most of the layout. I wanted the tuners to follow the curve of the headstock and be evenly spaced along the length of it. You may be able to see some of my layout lines here. Nothing about this gives the warm and fuzzies. The 6mm drill bit hole was too snug for the pegs, I probably should have used the 6.5mm bit. I used a reamer to open them up a bit. Then used a special reamer bit to counterbore for the bushings. Ended up with a bit of tearout, but most of it will be covered by the bushings. Glad that’s over!
  12. 4 points
    Ok, getting back to the Hank after a detour with a surfboard. This post is picture heavy, covering the glue up of the chair sides, pattern routing of sides, 42 degree cuts for the backrest joint, fitting sides to back, cutting out contour of back and putting scallop in backrest. Dominos join the sides, culls cut out of the pieces to help with the clamping of awkward pieces, titebond 3 used; Here's what the weird shaped sides look like after glueup. Next I drew the outline of the pattern on the sides and cut the chair sides close to the line on the bandsaw and routed the pieces using the template. Cleaned up the template then routed; Next it's cutting the 42 degree joint for the backrest. It's a hairy operation putting the front leg against the aux fence on the table saw; To cut the opposite side you need to reposition the aux fence forward and start the cut between the back leg and the backrest, hard to explain so I'll let the picture do the explaining, here's the setup; Final cut joint surfaces, two sides put together to confirm correct angle and symmetry; Sides ready for dominos; Backrests were also cut at a 42 degree cut, much more simple operation and just used the miter gauge on the table saw. Here's one joint dry fit; Next it was back to the bandsaw to cut out the backrest profile; Outline for a scalloped/dished out area at the top of the backrest; Completed this operation using the Festool RAS 115, my favorite gross shaping tool. These two pics are after shaping one of the backrests. There was absolutely no cleanup of dust needed, the vac picked up almost all of it. This is not doctored, literally finished shaping and then took pic. This is why I love this tool, rapid stock removal and minimal dust; There will be dust if you are shaping smaller pieces, but with a large flat area like this dust is negligible. Next job is to glue up the seat frame, I already have those pieces roughed out. Thanks for looking.
  13. 4 points
    Hi guys, I've seen several people put a bar across the casters on each side of a workbench to prevent racking (like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGlmlMjqQUc ). I did that a couple of years ago, but I still found it really tough to raise/lower - I'd essentially have to lift up one side of the bench (with my hands, lifting the top) as I pressed down on the bar. I'm still young and spry, but doing that was never very fun (it was an awkward handhold and a very awkward lift). To make it easier, I just grabbed a 2x6 and threw a couple of Dominos in it, along with some matching mortises on the caster bar. It works like a charm! The pictures show: down.JPG - the workbench in the working/down/stable position lever.JPG - the bar with two sets of Dominos step1.JPG - inserting the Dominos on the end step1_finish.JPG - after levering the bench most of the way up step2.JPG - inserting the Dominos on the face (into the same mortises on the caster bar) step2_finish.JPG - after levering the bench the rest of the way up up.JPG - the bench in the rolling position It's a little bit clunky to use (it'd be ideal to get it to one step instead of two), but it sure saves my back! I hope this helps the next guy! David
  14. 4 points
    Tiger maple does not look good painted!
  15. 4 points
    Today, we ran all the parts to their final size, and I spent a while finding the right molding plane. For running parts like this to final size, I finish two sides on the jointer. The glazing bars and muntins have their last two sides finished at the table saw with an old Forrest Mr. Sawdust blade that never gets used for anything but running small parts to final size. Stiles, and rails, being wider than the 5/8" thick muntins, get finished in a planer. For finishing parts on the jointer, I sharpen up a new set of knives. They don't come as sharp as I like, so I hone them on my sharpening stones as sharp as I can get them. It only takes a few minutes with my installation method-maybe 20 seconds per knife once I have the guard off, and tools needed at hand. For planing to finished surface, I keep a set of super sharp knives in my Grizzly 12" planer/molder. It has rubber feed rollers, and will take off the slightest little thickness with sharp knives. I've been meaning to make a video of my jointer knife installation method, but am always thinking about producing work, so haven't slowed up enough to set up the video equipment. We did take some pictures this morning. We organized the parts in different stacks with tags, to simplify not getting them mixed up, and no worry about remembering what is what. I thought I took a picture after we finished sizing, but the only one I have in my phone is after the two sides were finished on the jointer. After installing the sharp knives, only the slightest bit is run off of any side, just to smooth it up. The picture of the piece of Cypress is light reflecting off of it after running it against the grain, on purpose, just to show the quality of surface. Going with the grain leaves it a little slicker. That's just morning light from the North wall window. I'll post the knife setting method in another thread, but here are the pictures.
  16. 4 points
    I will! I'm just taking inventory now to decide on where to start. I think a full width chisel holder may be the first one I tackle. Here's a good chunk of the collection, although there's a fair number of stragglers in the basement or other drawers. I'm thinking I should have dropped a couple of gallery spots in favor of a taller saw till. My bigger saws will need to live in the doors now.
  17. 3 points
    That has to be the most terrifying drill press shot I've ever seen.
  18. 3 points
    Hello woodworking friends, Quick broad question: what is your favorite Non-typical domestic wood species (no red or white oak, cherry, walnut, Hickory, or maple). I've been using Sycamore in my projects recently, and I have been really impressed with its beauty, workability, and inexpensiveness. I'd like to expand my wood selection even further! Post pics of projects you've done with a unique domestic wood and let me know why you like it!
  19. 3 points
    Spent the morning today reorganizing my drying lumber stock. Taking assessment of it I've come to realize I have a problem. I hear the first step in confronting one's addiction you need to first realize you have a problem. I guess there are worse problems to have, and I realize the wood should not go bad as long as I store it correctly, but still it's becoming an issue. Managing all this wood takes time and effort. Here's an few pictures so you can see how bad the addiction has become; My "drying shed" (now a storage shed) is now almost full of lumber that is 2 plus years old stock. From the left I have 2 stacks of hickory (some pecan on the bottom), then a stack of red oak, cherry, white oak, poplar and more cherry. I'm in the process of filling this up from other piles. Some of the cherry stock is pretty marginal (second small pile from the right) as I harvested some marginal logs a few years back, but I will salvage some wood from those boards. All this was milled via chainsaw; Here's a small pile I've been picking at that needs to be moved into the "drying shed", 1 cherry log and 1 walnut, milled again with a chainsaw; This pile is all norway maple, milled again the hard way; And my new location for drying piles, 3 piles, the first in the foreground all walnut, the second walnut, white oak and some cherry, and the last all white oak. The first pile was milled via chainsaw, the second is a mix of chainsaw milled and bandsaw milled, and the last is all bandsaw milled, this wood needs another year of drying; I've been moving stock that is soon to be used, approx 3 years drying time, into my garage. Here's a mix of chainsaw milled wood; Finally, I move stock into my shop, where I run a dehumidifier and have some climate control. This wood is rotated and I try to let it sit here at least a few months, getting it down to about 9%. That's the best I can do without a kiln but it works fine for me at that moisture content. If I bought kiln dried wood and stored it here it would go up to 8-9% anyway, unless I had a completely climate controlled shop. This wood is a mix of chainsaw milled and about 150 bf of figured stock I purchased from @Spanky, On another wall I have paulownia and tucked away in the attic space above this I have some norway maple, white pine, yellow pine and 4/4 cherry. The cherry stock up in the attic is about 300 bf and is 15 plus years old that I pick away at when I need 4/4 stock. Most of my stock is 8/4-9/4; So I'm in the process of working through this addiction and any advice will help. But I really don't know if there is a cure as I've got 5 walnut logs sitting on my property now that I will mill up with the chainsaw this winter. I'm beginning to think I'm a lost soul.
  20. 3 points
    It’s better to have wood in times of no money than money in times of no wood, I don’t see a problem except that maybe you need to build a large dedicated wood shed to store it all in one place, just make it big enough
  21. 3 points
    Thanks to @Chip Sawdust and @Tom King for their contribution to the thread. I added their suggested books, Chip recommended some that fell outside the scope of this thread and called to attention that i should start a thread that covers construction techniques so sometime in the future I'll tackle that as well in the same format as this one. I also have some PDFs of books, old books that might be public domain. PM for more details. REFERENCE POST
  22. 3 points
    Since I didn't do a great job of explaining, here's a close up of the spots for the chisels. The rabbet in the block makes it much easier to remove them while not affecting how secure they are. The small hole is 7/8" and the larger started at 1 1/8", although after the router bit it's closer to 1 1/4", just with the rounded cove for the handle to sit in. I'm very happy with the result, although if I made it again I might add 1/8" to the wood at the back to make it a little stronger. It's fine in place but a bit flimsy until screwed to the cabinet.
  23. 3 points
    Hey Ken. I’ve been very busy with my new job and haven’t had any time to look at any forums. Very little shop time this year too. I made a coffee table early February and last night I finished a walnut 6 string electric guitar.
  24. 3 points
    Buy a bunch of pieces of foam like gymnasts use to practice tumbling into and fill the sta well up with them. Postion the saw at the top of the stairs and tip it onto the foam. Then remove the foam piece by piece from the bottom of the pile and and watch the saw slowly lower itself into the basement.
  25. 3 points
    Jigs, jigs, jigs. Now that I've created a perfectly sealed and airtight box, it's time to cut a bunch of holes in it. This is an adjustable jig for routing the pallet slots in the lower table.
  26. 3 points
    I finally have finish on the cabinet, and it's mounted on the wall. I used Tried and True varnish oil, with 2-3 coats depending on whether it was a wear surface or not. This gave a very nice finish, close to the wood, but it brought out the figure. I did find it went much better onto the maple than the other side of the plywood, since it was less porous. I took everything up to 320 grit. These are the outer doors open - this will probably be for less used tools. It doesn't look nearly as good as the maple, but it's fine for storage. Finally, here's the inside view of the cabinet. You can see the lag screws I used to put it up - there's 6 in the cleat and 3 through the cabinet back. I just used 2 1/2" because I didn't want to go too far into the studs behind. It's very solid. Obviously I also had to remount the doors, and I've added all the screws to the hinges. I haven't made any holders yet, but I really wanted to get this part up on the wall to get my space back. I'll pick away at them over the next little while and get my stuff moved in. I am trying to figure out if I should put magnets in the door to help keep them closed, since they don't stay right now. I'm trying to figure out if I'll stick with the layout in the plans, since I realized not all my saws will fit in the space allocated for them.
  27. 2 points
    In July, I posted a router-based method I used to remove the waste from hand cut hand-blind sockets (link). This involved orientating the boards vertically and routing into the end grain. This necessitated a rather clumsy piece of work-holding - which, as I explained at the time, was difficult to avoid as the end grain was not square to the sides, as is usual with drawer front. The bow fronted drawers created ends which were angled.With the usual square drawer fronts, both Bill and Roger on the forum preferred to place their boards flat on the bench and rest the router on the edge. Roger's photos ...However, this method leaves is too much waste remaining at the sides of the socket - as this is angled and the router bit is vertical - which means that there is more work needed to clear ...Bill's objection - that holding the work piece vertically looked too clumsy for easy work - continued to ring in my head. The horizontal method certainly had the advantage of being more stable. So, now that my then-current project, the Harlequin Table, is complete, between pieces I take some time to solve these problems. Which I have, and hopefully in a way that others will find helpful.Just as an aside, my preference is hand tool work, and generally if the wood is willing this is my go-to. The method here is not to replace all hand work, but to make the process easier in particular circumstances. Some of the timbers I work, especially for cases and drawer fronts, are extremely hard, and it is not viable to chop them out, particularly when there are several to do. It is not simply that this is time consuming - after all, this is just my hobby - but that it is hard on the chisels. I use machines to compliment hand tools. There is a time and place for everything.Let's take it from the beginning:Step 1: saw the pins ...Step 2: deepen the kerfs with (in my case) a kerfing chisel (see my website for more info) ...Now we come to the new jig. I must tell you that this did my head in for a long time. As with everything, there is a simple solution, and in the end it could not have been simpler!The need is (1) quick and easy set up, (2) accurate routing leaving minimal waste, and (3) visibility and dust control (bloody machines!).The jigThis turned out to be nothing more than a block of wood. This one is 16"/440mm long x 4"/100mm high and 2"/50mm wide.I used MicroJig clamps, which slide along a sliding dovetail. This is not necessary; one can just use a couple of F-clamps. However the MicroJig clamps not only make work holding less finicky, but they extend the length of the board one can hold with this particular jig to 500mm. That is easily enough for most case widths.To use, place face down on a flat surface and clamp the drawer front close to centre ...Up end the combination, and place the end of the drawer front into your vise. This could be a face vise or, as here, a Moxon vise. Note that the image is taken from the rear of the vise ...This is what you will see when standing in front of the jig/vise ...Let's talk about the router.This is a Makita RT0700C trim router. Fantastic little router: 1 hp, variable speed, soft start. Together with a Mirka 27mm antistatic dust hose, the dust collection is amazing! The photo shown is after use, and there is no dust to be found (I very much doubt that a small plunge router could remain this clean). That also means that visibility is good, even though it does not have a built-in light. There are other excellent trim routers around for much the same price. This is the one I use.The baseThe base is the other half of the jig. This made from 6mm perspex. This is not the strongest, but does the job. I plan to build another out of polycarbonite (Lexan), which is much tougher.There is just the single handle as the left hand will grip the dust outlet.Below is the rear of the base. Note the adjustable fence/depth stop ...This is the underside ...Plans for anyone looking to make their own ...Setting upStep 1: set the depth of cut - I scribed marks on the fence for two drawer side thickness I use. Mostly I use 6mm (or 1/4"). The other is 10mm, which is used here. I shall make another, deeper fence, so that I can add a few other thicknesses, such as 19mm for case sides.Step 2: set the cut to the boundary line - this is done as close as possible. In the end I want to leave about 1mm to clear with a chisel (this is such an important line that I am not willing to take a risk here). If you move the bit side-to-side, the scratch pattern will show where it is cutting ...The resultThe router bit is 5/32" carbide. It is very controllable, and this makes it possible to freehand close to the side kerfs. The fence/depth stop prevents over-cutting the boundary line. In 15 seconds, this is the result ...Turn the board around to chisel out the waste ..Order of waste removalFirst lever away the sides. The waste here is paper thin and breaks away ...Secondly, place a wide chisel in the scribed boundary line, and chop straight down ...Finally, use a fishtail chisel into the corners to remove this ...A note: removing the waste this cleanly and easily was facilitated by using the kerfing chisel to ensure that there was a release cut at the sides of the socket.Regards from PerthDerek
  28. 2 points
    Here are a few, including proof that it's indeed Texas mesquite!
  29. 2 points
    A 1/2" chisel and use it like a scraper use the piece that going to be used sitting in its exact location mark around it with a sharp pencil then scrape away. Tite Bond glue, a small dab set the piece in place squeeze the piece in its location take it back off if there are dry spots add another dab and repeat when your satisfied wiggle the piece in place then hold it with pressure until it grabs maybe a minute or two what is referred to as a rub joint.
  30. 2 points
    Thanks Tom and you’re right having never tried fuming I was a little apprehensive but the result is impressive. I wish I could take better pictures they are better in person, it’s been quite a ride for me
  31. 2 points
    In the pictures one looks a little darker than the other, it’s mostly the light in the shop but one is slightly darker, and I found a couple of small spots I missed with the shellac but that can be dealt with easy enough I think, just thought I would throw in this shot of them together
  32. 2 points
    Bmac I’m not sure but I think I have two board feet more than you.
  33. 2 points
    I was going to vote cherry it's a good medium color and pairs very well grain and texture wise with walnut. The are a match made like lamb and tunafish.
  34. 2 points
    For safety, ceiling-height cases should definitely be fixed in place. I made a utility-grade set in similar fashion, and used a french cleat to fix the top to the wall, while still allowing it to rest on the floor. I suggest framing the bottom so you can included leveling feet, then use a base molding to hide them. The molding can be scribed and cut to follow any irregularities of the floor. If the crown is not touching the ceiling, it can be aligned with the case and look good. If it joins the case and ceiling, extra care will be necessary to get a good fit without visible gaps or misaligned edges. Ceilings & floors are never truly flat or square. For a case that tall, I'd prefer to use solid panels for the sides, with shelves dadoed or dovetailed into them. Grain orientation is all the same, so all parts should grow/shrink together. I'd also use a face frame to add rigidity. If appropriate ply is avalable and looks good to you, it would be simpler to use for the case and shelves, and the face frame will cover the edges.
  35. 2 points
    If you plan to paint, you can use most any suitable lumber. The paint will protect the wood. PT stuff from home centers is awful stuff to work with, is usually far from dry, and doesn't hold paint well until it IS dry. I'd suggest pine or poplar. Beware that pine knots hold a lot of pitch, and require extra care to paint well. Use a good quality outdoor primer and paint, take steps to form the parts so that water drains away, and that no unpainted wood is exposed. Consider that before the advent of aluminum and vinyl siding products, wooden siding for homes was quite common, and very often simply painted pine boards. Of course, if you can obtain a weather resistant species like cedar, cypress, or white oak, your pieces will last even longer. Something I've heard, poplar sap wood is supposed to be more rot resistant than the heart, so it may be a good choice for painted projects. The main natural entrance to Mammoth Cave still contains water piping made from bored out poplar logs, used for a gunpowder producing operation during the civil war, if I recall correctly.
  36. 2 points
    I wish i had easy access to a bunch of QS sycamore. I've always thought it was a pretty wood but haven't found a source for it and it doesn't grow locally. My favorites are below. Chestnut, but i haven't made anything from it because i only have 3 boards and well.... it's not like the tree is really around any more.... Redwood Birch is another favorite for both secondary wood and using figured stuff for primary wood. I also have some Chokecherry that is pretty interesting to work with.
  37. 2 points
    set up a tall auxiliary fence and set the depth real close to coming thru, finished with a hand sawi‘ve made better cuts like this but not too bad, a little sanding got them right. I routed a groove in both the top and bottom of the skirt, this is for the silicone that will hold the 1/8” X 3/4” stained glass strip in the skirt and hold the top and bottom of the skirt together, next is make a tent to fume them, if the weather would just cooperate
  38. 2 points
    This frame and panel shelves is working well...
  39. 2 points
    I'll believe it right after I see your Roubo .
  40. 2 points
    If you do solid wood, movement becomes something you should worry about with the shelves. The best way would e a sliding dovetail or a breadboard style connection to the side panel. The bookcases i made a year ago were solid wood and have a very open feel to them. They have held up very well over a full year of humidity changes. 1 thing i consider is that good quality plywood doesn't necessarily save money over hardwood but it's easier to use for some situations.
  41. 2 points
    It took a lot longer than it should have, but I made my chisel holder. I made about half of one out of pine to prototype it, then made this from sapele. By the time I was done I think I removed 75% of the wood I started with. Still needs finish, but it's secure and fits all but a couple of specialty chisels. I drilled two Forstner bit holes, then used a small cove bit too make it fit the handle and cut the notches. Finally I had to use the router table to add the step back to make them easier to remove. I like having the guards on there, so it complicated life a bit. I also fit the plywood for the tall plane till and cut the little strips up for fitting those. It looks like my number 6 and 7 will just fit in their (width wise, there's lots of height). The sapele drawer front there is the start of my card scraper holder, but I'm still thinking that through. I want a more finished look than Matt had in the project for that.
  42. 2 points
    I can't remember where i posted them. I should probably make a dedicated post.
  43. 2 points
    Here's where those Heart Pine 3x's came from. They were "supports" for 20 foot long 3x3 rafters. The supports were sitting vertically under the rafters, but the rafters weren't lined up above the floor joists, so they set the posts on top of old 1x used flooring boards spanning between the joists. That's the reason we were building the trusses up there to wedge the noodle rafters back into a flat plane. It was nice for them to leave us some good, straight grained 3x3's though. There was a 12 x 14" access door into the attic, but fortunately it lined up nicely with the outside steps so we could pull those 2x12x16's up there with the back doors to the house open.
  44. 2 points
    Slow but steady progress, made the cap for the top of the base that will hold the light fixture, it will be just screwed on to allow removal of the fixture if ever needed. here's the link to the fixture http://www.globalindustries.com the product# is B515704, they have all kinds of stuff for lamps and about exerting else, only $18.00 for the fixture. now i wait for a decent day to fume and wait for the shellac flakes to arrive and do some tests before the real deal.
  45. 2 points
    Glad to see some specks of dust and detritus on the floor Kev. It looks fantastic - a great space. It looks like you are in a dark sky site judging by the views out of the windows? Another hobby of mine is astronomy and I've recently got into deep space astrophotography. I sure wish my urban location had darker skies. We have it spoilt by LED streetlights
  46. 2 points
    Not always, depends on the eyes looking at it. I made a step stool for my daughter that “looked right” but flips over if she stands on the edge. Agreed, definitely want the legs to be offset inward, probably not even in the same plane as the table edge. the Illustrated Cabinetmaking book recommends 14-18” knee room to allow seating on the ends. This book has a lot of good info on ergonomics for a variety of furniture.
  47. 2 points
    Sites like this one can provide a good deal of useful information to guide your designs.
  48. 2 points
  49. 1 point
    For Bill Hylton: Illustrated Cabinet Making I will add that this book contains much more info than just cabinet making. It includes information on many types of furniture- kitchen cabinets, tables, bookcases, desks, beds, etc. It gives designs, dimensions, exploded drawings, and assembly info. It also includes ergonomic standards for the variety of furniture it covers, which is one of the main reasons I bought the book.
  50. 1 point
    Marc's "Barrister Bookcase" was a lot of fun as well as challenging.