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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/19/20 in Posts

  1. 15 points
    I have had this drawer cabinet under my saw for three years and over time have decided that I wasn't totally happy with how it was working out and it also created a bit of a knuckle scrapper when using the hand wheel to adjust the blade tilt on the saw. So after seeing a blade storage idea that I really liked on another forum I decided it was time to start fresh and replace the old one. The old one had three drawers with ridge foam insulation that had been routed out to hold blades and other fixtures and tools. The new one also has three drawers, with one drawer at this time, with nothing in it so thats a plus. Its also five inches narrower so the knuckles are safe. I still have to get one more knob for the little drawer at the top but I stuck on a scrap of sapele for now so I can get in to it. A peek of the old one in the bottom of the picture. And the NEW - Plenty of room to turn now.
  2. 11 points
    I've been away from the workshop for a month, travelling around a few cities in Austria and Germany, as well as Prague. It was a good trip, but it's great to be home. The current build was on hold. This is the entry hall table my niece asked me to build ... ... and this is where we left off last time - ready to fit the first corner ... Past builds: Part 1: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/EntryHallTableForANiece1.html Part 2: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/EntryHallTableForANiece2.html Today we shall put the complete case together. What I wish to focus on is the dovetailing. Not just any dovetailing, but mitred through dovetailing in unforgiving hardwood (here, Fiddleback Jarrah). Of all the commonly used dovetails, I consider the through dovetail more difficult than the half-blind dovetail. Why ... because two sides are exposed against the single face of the half-blind. In my opinion, by mitering the ends, the level of complexity is tripled .. at least. Not only are there three faces now, but each needs to be dimensioned perfectly, otherwise each is affected in turn. This is more difficult than a secret mitred dovetail, where mistakes may be hidden. I have posted before on building the mitred though dovetail, and it is not my intention to do this again. Instead, what I wish to show are the tuning tricks to get it right. This is the model of the tail- and pin boards … In a wide case, such as this, it is critical that the parts go together ideally off the saw or, at least, require minimal adjustment. The more adjustments one makes, the more the dovetails will look ragged. Tail boards are straightforward. Let’s consider this done. Once the transfer of tails to pins is completed, the vital area is sawing the vertical lines … well, perfectly vertical. I use blue tape in transferring the marks. The first saw cut is flat against the tape. Note that the harder the wood, the less compression there will be, and so the tail-pin fit needs to be spot on. Where you saw offers an opportunity for ensuring a good fit: if you hug the line (edge of the tape), you get a tight fit. If you encroach a smidgeon over the line, you loosen the fit slightly. Saw diagionally, using the vertical line as your target … Only then level the saw and complete the cut … I do not plan to discuss removing the waste. That was demonstrated in Part 2. So, the next important area is the mitre. These are scribed, and then I use a crosscut saw to remove the waste about 1mm above the line on both the tail- and pin boards … Now we are ready to test-fit the boards … Mmmm …. not a great fit … … even though the mitres at the sides are tight … The problem is that the mitres are fat, and the extra thickness is holding the boards apart … Even sawing to the lines here is likely to leave some fat, which is why it is a waste of energy to try and saw to the line in this instance. It needs to be pared away with a chisel, using a 45-degree fixture. As tempting and logical as it seems to pare straight down the guide … … what I experience is that the chisel will skip over the surface of the hard wood rather than digging in and cutting it away. What is more successful is to pare at an angle, and let the corner of the bevel catch the wood … This is what you are aiming for … Okay, we do this. And this is the result … Not bad. But not good enough. There is a slight gap at each side, quite fine, but evident close up. The source is traced to the mitre not being clean enough. It is like sharpening a blade – look for the light on the edge. If it is there, the blade is not sharp. If there is a slight amount of waste on the mitre, the case will not close up. To clear this, instead of a chisel – which is tricky to use for such a small amount – I choose to use a file. This file has the teeth on the sides ground off to create “safe” sides. Try again. The fit is now very good. I will stop there. So, this is the stage of the project: the case is completed. This is a dry fit … One end … The other … The waterfall can be seen, even without being smoothed and finished … Regards from Perth Derek
  3. 9 points
    This is a replacement jig for cutting splines I made, the old one was not the best and I hope this one will serve me better. Just plywood and MDF I had around, T-Track and white oak runners. Adjustable stops left and right. Any comments on improvement or construction are welcome, not crazy about the MDF but it’s what I had around, should have been Baltic birch, thanks for looking
  4. 8 points
    This chair is headed out the door to the upholstery guy this week. All the shaping and sanding is done and the finish has been applied. One new wrinkle I've added to my sanding which has really helped is after sanding to 400 I burnish the surface with a white 3m pad. This has made any grain raising during the finish application practically disappear. Wanted to go over the upholstery side of things, because I was confused about how he wanted things and I incorrectly described what he wanted. We met last week and clarified things. First is the seat. rails 1/2" below the lip were glued and screwed in place, following the contour of the seat rails. He wanted a 1/2" frame to sit inside the opening, with about 1/8-1/4" gap all the way around. He'll use the frame for webbing, he'll put padding on that, put the fabric over that, and then the seat panel will just fit into the opening and a few screws can secure it to the chair. Here's my frame sitting in the seat opening and resting on the rails; For the back he wanted a frame that had about 1/8" clearance all around the back opening. He'll make the back cushion as a panel using webbing again. After the panel is made he'll screw it into the frame and cover the back with fabric. Earlier I was confused about this step, I thought he wanted the frame glued in place. The back frame also needs to follow the contours of the headrest and the lower cross piece. To achieve the look of "2" cushions in the back area, I placed two cross rails. This will allow him to pull and secure the fabric right were the cushions appear to meet. Here's what this frame looks like; And finally, here are a few shots of the chair with the finish applied; This build so far has been super fun. I see more upholstered pieces in my future, totally opening up another dimension in my skill set. I'll post final pics after the upholstery in done. Thanks for looking.
  5. 7 points
    @treeslayer it’s as done as it’s gonna get. All the bits and pieces together, for the most part
  6. 7 points
    Not sure how high I'm kicking but I am still moving.Went to the spine doc today to discuss a small problem and how to fix it. But I have finished our dining room table . And now I am working on making the treads and risers for my staircase.
  7. 7 points
    Today I travelled into the vast watelands of West Tennessee, near the Kentucky frontier, in search of a hardwood dealer that deigns to open on Saturday. After almost 2 hours of driving, losing GPS signal at least 4 times, and following "roads" that bore more resemblance to a slug trail, we finally located the place. 65 bf of red oak and 30 bf of cherry are bound to become something I'm calling the 'Toadstool Table'. Project journal coming soon, to a forum thread near you...
  8. 7 points
    I bought 100 bf of 8/4 walnut for $5/bf. I thought it was an ok deal.
  9. 7 points
    Thank you all for your input. I stopped b y Rockler and bought the Freud SD208. I j ust don't use it often enought to justify the more expensive model. It looks kinda scary sitting on the arbor since my old set had many more teeth on the chippers so that it looked more solid. First thing I noticed is that the spacers and shims are steel and that there was a real solid feel when I tighened the arbor bolt and the blades and chippers did not rotate with the wrench. My old set had aluminum and plastic shims that tended to slip as the bolt was tightened. Also the blades and chipppers slid onto the arbor smoothly. The blades and chippers in the old set were hard to get on and harder to get snug against each other. I fired it up for a few seconds and it didn't explode. Checked the bolt and it was fine. Did one test cut and it cut like butter - 13/16 wide and 1/4" deep in hard maple. I'll cut the dados in the sides of my drawers tomorrow. I am going to sleep happy now. Thanks again.
  10. 7 points
    A beautiful driveway line with Live Oaks at Wormsole Historic Site. I never realized how beautiful Live Oaks were until I saw them in person.
  11. 7 points
    Basically just bought a tree and filled up the minivan. Black Walnut!
  12. 7 points
    I've gotten to an exciting point on the chairs. I left off with the legs half finished and some parts rough cut. I cleaned up the other side of the legs. They fit together nicely. I placed the legs in pairs trying to keep all the legs from the same board together so grain and color would match closely. I positioned the unfavorable grain towards the inside. I wanted to start with the backs of the chair and work my way forward. I took the measurement that would space the legs apart and cut the 3 rear pieces, the headrest, the bottom back rest, and the bottom rail. I then milled the material strait and square and cut to length using a miter gauge. After using a miter gauge I find myself unable to go back to the mitersaw for critical work. With the parts cut I was able to start laying out joinery. This will all be floating tenons with the widths dependent on how much space I have available. I marked out 2 legs with the tops and bottoms of the boards and then the center of the joinery. I used this to cut the joinery on the first char (chair A). I then did a dry assembly so i could determine the length of the back rest. I have deviated slightly from my original plans and have added a bottom back rest part. This allows the joinery on the back rest to be strait and square and leaves me free from trying to deal with a nasty angle that may change from chair to chair. Then i grabbed a piece of 6/4 material and cut it in half thickness wise. I was able to plane it out to around 16mm thick. It's a bit thick but I like the stability and it allows substantial joinery. I used a template to mark the rough shape and clean up on the router table. I used the painters tape and superglue trick here as I didn't think the time to make 2 complicated sleds was worth it. I then took the back rest cut to shape and length and marked out some floating tenon joinery and tested it out. Everything worked out great. So i took the 2 legs and used them as a story stick to mark each leg for joinery locations and length. I first cut to length. All 12 legs then had their joinery mortises cut. Following that I took the back rest parts and cut the matching joinery in them. All the mortises are 8mm thick. The momeny I was waiting for was to do a dry assembly of the one back rest I had finished. I'd been waiting years to finally see my idea in the physical form instead of just an idea on paper. I have to say that it was a long wait and I think I'm going to love these chairs when they are done.My goal is to have 3 chairs sweep right like the one above and to have 3 chairs sweep left. This way 2 chairs on the sides of the table will either sweep away or towards each other. This bit was the other aspect that using a flat back rest made easier. If i wanted this to work out this way I'd have had to make 2 complicated routing jigs to accomplish my goal. I have a lot more work left. I still have a lot of back rests to cut out. Then each part needs to be cleaned up sanded rounded over and completely ready before glue up. After it's glued up planing surfaces will be a lot harder to accomplish.
  13. 6 points
    Following hot on the heels of the last post, where we created the male or tail section of the tapered sliding dovetail, now comes the female or pin socket to house the base for the legs. These are the bases. This post will focus on the socket for the one closest the camera. The base is positioned exactly 3 1/4" from the side. The tapered side is on the inside, with the outside face square to the front and rear of the case ... This process is essentially the same as transferring marks from the tail- to the pin board with drawers. The base tapers towards the toe, that is, the sliding dovetail will tighten up as the base is pushed into the socket. The first step is to register the far end of the base in such a way that the position is repeatable. This is done by placing a long board along the "square" side. The position for the end of the board is marked ... Now the base can be stood up to mark inside the tail with a scratch awl. You can make out the mark aligning the baseline of the tail ... Look carefully for the dots. This is repeated at the other end. The dots are now joined up ... The plan is to saw the socket sides, as if sawing dovetails in a drawer. The angle ratio is 1:6, as it was with the base. Since the socket is blind or stopped, the saw needs to have space in which to begin the cut. An area at the toe is excavated with a router. The depth of the cut is set using a 7.0mm drill bit. I am aware that the actual depth is 7.5mm, but this will be a second pass. I intend to clear the waste with the router - this Jarrah is bloody hard, and I am not a masochist! Using an angled saw guide, the end is chopped to the line .. Now this is space to register the azebiki saw ... I have roughly marked a depth to aim for ... Both sides have been sawn ... The waste is removed with the router, leaving a few mm close to the sides ... This is chopped away with a chisel in two passes, and then cleaned up with a hand router ... The side rebate #79/dovetail plane is used to clean any rough sections .. The power router drops a 0.5mm to 7.5mm and this is cleaned up ... Amazingly, the base slides in and tightens up about 1/4" from the end. It will need a tap to be fully secure. That's it for now. Regards from Perth Derek
  14. 6 points
    As a reminder, we are building a version of this table ... The plan is to attach the legs, which were made near the start of this project. The attachment method is by inserting the legs into compound angle mortices in a base, which will be fixed to the carcase with a tapered sliding and stopped dovetail. We don't mess about here! It will be necessary to do this over two articles, the first being the base for the legs, which will be dovetailed (tails). The second will be the socket (pins) for the base. Before we begin, I want to mention what I did at the end of the last session. I had replaced the central drawer dividers as the grain ran in the wrong direction. The spacers at the ends also did so, and my response was to cut out half the spacer ... Well, I fretted over the end spacers, and just could not leave them this way. Encouraged by the way the halves had come out cleanly, I removed the remainder and replaced the spacers with correctly grained versions ... OK, onto the leg base ... I spent a while playing with angles for the legs, and finally accepted this (mocked up base) ... I have drilled angled mortices with a brace on a number of occasions. This time I decided to used a drill press and some Japanese Star-M augers, which are specially designed for this type of work (no lead screws). I built a 10 degree ramp for the resultant angle. The auger is 30mm ... [ The tenon is straight, but the mortice will receive a slight reaming, and the tenon will be glued and wedged. This is probably overkill since the weight of the case rests on the legs. These are the bases for the legs. The final prototype is at the rear ... Drilling the bases ... The design requires that the legs do not go over the boundary of the case (to avoid tripping over them) ... This is how they should be ... There was a small dilemma: The base at one side measures 3" from the end ... ... and the other side measures 1/4" further ... I could not work out how this occurred. The angles are the same. In fact, I made another set of bases, and the same error showed up again - exactly the same! So what to do? Actually, the decision was obvious after a little think - make the bases the same. What is more likely to be noticed is if the bases are different distances from the sides. No one will notice a 1/4" difference where the legs hit the ground. So be it. This is one of the bases for dovetailing ... First step is to remove a 2mm taper from one side. The taper will be on the inside of the base, with the outside parallel to the side of the case. Taper line drawn ... Easiest way to do this is with a #604 smoother .. This is the one end of the base ... .. and this is the other end ... mmmm .... 0.39 mm oversize. What to do ...? I'm kidding The dovetails will be 7mm deep. A shoulder was planed with a rebate plane ... The squareness of this rebate is important, so check ... The dovetail is now to be created, and the preparatory step is to colour the outer edge of the rebate with a sharpie. This will warn that the planing does not lower the external edge of the rebate. The dovetail is created with a modified Stanley #79 edge plane ... The fence has a 1:6 ratio wedge ... Details of this dovetail plane here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/SlidingDovetailsWithTheStanley79.html The result of planing. That is a 1:6 dovetail marker ... So what are the numbers for the taper? This will give an indication of the accuracy of the joint. One end is 44.12mm ... ... and the other is 46.46mm, which is a difference of 2.34mm. This will work - the pin socket is measured from this (in the same way as dovetails for a drawer. The reason for the 7mm depth? The case is 20mm thick. the dovetail should be about 1/3 of this thickness. I decided to take it to the depth of the rebate for the rear panel ... So, here is one of the completed bases ... And this is where it will be fitted ... Regards from Perth Derek
  15. 6 points
    An alternate retirement hobby than rug hooking for the ladies.
  16. 6 points
    So you want to get wood for your wedding from a guy named Spanky....? I'll just leave it at that...
  17. 6 points
    All the chair backs are done and stacked in a safe place. The nested backs are oddly satisfying to look at so I thought I'd share another picture. The next main hurdle I have is trying to complete the joinery from the back legs to the front legs. I want the seat to taper slightly from the front to the back adding some visual depth to the chair. This means that the joinery for those parts would be on an angle. The angle ends up being around 5 degrees. I have my table saw blade set and won't change the angle untill all the parts are cut. Just in case something gets bumped I cut an angle in to a piece of hardwood. I will also use this piece of hardwood to set the fence on the domino consistently to 5 degrees. Now that I have the angles figured out I needed to figure out floating M&T placement so that the rear legs will join to the side rails in the best way possible. Beings that the main rear rail has a single tenon in the middle I figured I'd do 2 tenons spaced apart. The other trick is setting the fence depth so I get the reveal I want. This just took a bit of fiddling and some measuring. I wrote the values down so I can reference them quickly. Now it's posted here in case my board gets erased. The reveal ends up being around 3mm. The difference in values between the fron and the rear stem from the location of the tenon on the side rail. I now just realized that if my side rails are the same thickness as my trial pine the front leg reveal won't work out. I'll have to remeasure that once I get to it. The picture below shows the center of the floating tenons as well as the subtle setback on the side rails. The floating tenons are red oak and will be around 56mm long. I'll have 2 28mm mortises on each end of each rail. With each floating tenon 1/4" in from the edge of the side rail this should provide a LOT of strength on this joint in the chair. I have Prototype #3 in use for the last month or so and have been balancing on the chair on it's rear legs. So far it hasn't broken, I'm not the heaviest person that will sit in the chair but I'm probably the heaviest person that will put it on 2 legs and balance like that. The joiner on the prototype is not as stout as the joinery on the final chair so it should last the test of time but we'll see. One final material prep step was prep the front legs that I cut out of the rear leg scraps. I figured out how many additional legs I'd need and cut those out of some scrap stock. I call it scrap stock but honestly it was perfect for the job. It was 18" long and was 9" wide. I could get 2 legs from each edge of the stock and the blanks are perfectly rift sawn. I found another board to grab 2 more rift sawn blanks. Then I spent a good 30 min dong some grain matching to get the right 2 legs paired together. I'll be out of town for the weekend so I did the initial milling on the side rails and have the legs and side rails set out to hopefully relieave any stress in the boards and to preferably maintain EMC. Next week will be milling the rest of these parts to final, cutting joinery, then measuring and milling out the front rail. At that point I'll be ready to assemble 6 chairs. At that point I anticipate my shop getting really small feeling.
  18. 6 points
    Hello again from Ohio - I have made substantial (to me) progress on my shop build. My pace has hastened as my wife is now pregnant with twins and it is my understanding that the likelihood of my having and enjoying shop is zilch if said shop is not completed before the babies are born. Thus I have been burning the candle at both ends between work, baby prep, remodeling a rental, and of course...the shop. Last time I posted I'd had my detached garage air sealed with closed-cell foam and had my electrical panel installed. Some additional demo and electrical updates were then required. I killed power to the original circuits and cut out all the old wiring (ancient Romex stapled to the rafters) and properly terminated the old circuits. I also had to rewire a three-way switch to a flood light attached to the building that's also controllable from the house. Next came the unpleasant task of filling the stud and rafter bays with cheap fiberglass insulation. This was made far less enjoyable by the fact that I couldn't empty the building to give myself room to work. I had to contort myself around bins and tools and my cache of lumber to cut and install every batt. The job took ten times as long as it might have otherwise given all the obstructions, and it's definitely uglier than it ought to be, but it's finished. Now I'm working on the walls and ceilings, which is far more fun. The garage is detached so I am less worried about fire barriers etc. than I would be if it were attached. I've chosen 15/32 4-ply rated sheathing for the walls, and I am undecided as to whether I will also use that on the ceiling or use 7/16 OSB instead. Cost is a major factor in my decision so it'll probably be OSB, but the rafters are on 24" centers. I may have to go the ply route if OSB sags when run perpendicular to the them. The sagging batts are suboptimal but I have them strapped in places, and the ceiling sheeting will compress them in place. This building will not be winning any energy consciousness awards. I've also worked out my wiring plan. I'll run EMT and metal boxes, leaving room in both for future circuits. Paranoid, I dreamt up multiple likely tool layouts (including some with provisions for parking my wife's vehicle per an earlier ill-conceived promise) to ensure my receptacle layout would be flexible enough. This was probably overthinking on my part because the space is 18'x25' and I'm placing plenty of outlets. However, as I worked through my permutations joy of joys struck me when I realized the mom-mobile we recently purchased won't fit in the space with room to open the door! This was doubly good news because I think it unlikely I will be able to build the tool shed in the backyard I'd previously planned due to family expansion budgetary concerns, and the lawn mower etc. still need an accessible place to live. Another bonus to losing the car-parking requirement is that I could conceivably remove the old roll-up door, build insulated carriage doors, and achieve significantly better climate control. Speaking of layout, I think I have settled on a reasonable initial arrangement for my existing tools and benches. Originally I'd planned to just use my 1.5hp Laguna dust collector with a run of flex hose, but now I think I'm going to build a relatively-inexpensive single run of 6" SDR35 pvc with a few blast gates instead. It's great to finally feel close to having a shop again after two years wanting, dreaming, and waiting for it. More to come!
  19. 6 points
    Quick update, I've been out of town for a dental mission trip. Finally getting over my jet lag and into the swing of things. Before I left i glued the back supports to the frame. This lets me move on to the arms. My design was slightly off as my 10/4 stock for the arms did not match up as well from the front leg to the arm stem on the back rest. Really needed my front leg .5" higher and I would have been dead on. So I made a new "longer" template for future reference and I glued .5" pieces to the front part of the arm stock. Arms were perfect then and fit the stock to the chair and shaped my arms. Now we are moving forward; At this point arms are just screwed on, need to do glueup here and then final shaping. Upholstery guy stopped by and need to tweak my back frame and make a frame that sits in the seat opening. Once that's done it's final sanding and finishing before it's off to the upholstery guy. Thanks for looking.
  20. 6 points
    Picked up the last supplies needed for the theater construction. Poplar for the remaining cloth frames and Linacoustic RC for the screen wall. Now I just need the black fabric (ordered Monday) for the screen wall and I will be in business.
  21. 6 points
    This came in the mail. And no, as a matter of fact I can't offer any explanation as to why I bought it.
  22. 6 points
    Finally got the joinery cut for all the back rest parts. After batching out the joinery I used the smoothing planes to clean up all the parts. There was a bit of hand sanding required on the curved profiles but nothing major. All the little details on the back rest are quite tedious and i probably had 20 hours just in smoothing the legs, and other parts. I also made a LARGE pile of plane shavings. Glueup went smoothly for all of the chair backs. The last one gave me the most troubles but it wasn't anything major. I have 3 sweeping left and 3 sweeping right. I figure this will tie the asymetrical chairbacks together well when they are set around the table. I must have done a decent job at making the parts uniform. They next together quite well. Next up I have to figure out the joinery for the angled side rails and then figure out a good way to streamline the joinery for the side rails front legs, and front rail. I also need to decide if i want to do a lower rail between the front and rear legs or not.
  23. 6 points
    We ended the last session with the drawer dividers installed ... Everything was nice and square, but the more I thought about what I had done, the unhappier I became. Such an elementary oversight. I cannot believe I did it, and also that no one pulled me up for it. What was it? Two items: The first was that the grain for the drawer dividers runs the wrong way. Although the boards are as close to quarter grain as possible, which adds to stability, they will expand vertically. That could cause them to buckle, and then the drawers will not run nicely. The second is that I could have built in a way to close up the drawer dividers against the back of the (to-be-built) side lipped drawer fronts ... this is to be used as a drawer stop ... at this stage it would be necessary to add a filler. Not good. So I re-did the drawer dividers. Here is the rear of the case. The drawers are left long on purpose ... Provision is made for the dividers to be adjustable in length (to close up with the back of the drawer front). They are given rebates to slide further forward ... it will be necessary that they move around 15mm forward (to within 5-6mm of the opening). The rebate is 2mm deep (the depth of the dados), and largely created with a cutting gauge. The blade slices away end grain, and the resulting splitting away makes it easy to chop the remainder. Here are the dividers, further forward than before, and capable of moving a little more still ... The plan was to glue up the case. However, before this is done, it is wise to fit the drawer fronts across the width (the height will be done at a later date). This is the board for the three drawers. Removing one end, the board is set on the case ... It is now apparent that the front of the bevel, where it meets the drawers, is not straight. It is possible to see a small amount of flat ... This is especially noticeable in this corner .. This is fairly easy to remedy ... mark with a pencil, and then plane away the pencil marks ... Perfect now ... The other end needs no more than a smidgeon removed .. The upper side is now treated the same way. Interestingly, this needs no work at all. Time to saw the drawer fronts to size. First step is to mark the middle point of each divider (since the lips will share the divider). The mark can be seen in the rebate ... The drawer board across the front ... Transfer the mark, and then saw the drawer front ... This process is repeated. Here are the three sequential drawer fronts. You can just make out the breaks ... I am happy with this. And so, finally, the case is glued up (Titebond Liquid Hide Glue - reversibility and long open time). Looking like a trussed up fowl .... Regards from Perth Derek
  24. 6 points
    Seats, LCR speakers, and subs are all in, the screen is made and hung, just need to do some wiring in the morning and the Superbowl will be showing in the evening
  25. 6 points
    Went to a funeral today, this is Sacred Heart Cathedral in Davenport Iowa built in 1891, the roof supports are called Hammer Beams, I love these old buildings, the craftsmen who built these types of structures were certainly at the top of their game.
  26. 6 points
    Kev, Thanks for the insight. I ended up getting a SawStop today. I went with the PCS31230 - TGP236 and got the ICS mobile base. Now it’s time to read over the assembly manual and stat putting it together. I guess I solved my dust port issue on the dewalt saw. Time to sell that and redo the bench top.
  27. 6 points
    I’m in Budapest the capital city of Hungary..... in the hotel bar.
  28. 5 points
    Last weekend i had a fishing outing with some friends. This past week was completely occupied by wedding planning and meetings with people that want a lot of my money no new band saw this year well maybe . Megan has probably gotten sick of me saying "Bah! I'm never going to get those chairs done." So she let me have all weekend in the shop Starting Saturday. The last two days have meant a good amount of progress on the chairs. I started off getting all the side rails cut to length. The side rails have a 5 degree angle cut on them which gives the seat a taper from 17" at the front to 14" at the rear. This really helps the look of the chair but makes planning the side rails a bit more difficult. After I had them all cut to length I cut joinery in the side rails. Above the side rails aren't ripped to final width. I didn't bother getting the exact width as I knew i'd have to route out the shape on my side rail routing sled. This is the same method that I used for the back legs so I didn't bother taking pictures of it. It's as simple as rough cutting at the band saw and then clamping the piece in place and running it across a template bit. The joiner has space in the center for a reason. I wanted the back rail joinery to squeeze between the joinery for the side rails. The joint of the side rails to both the front and rear leg are the most important to get right on a chair. These are the joints that get stressed the most when a person puts the chair on 2 legs. Now i'm one of those awful people so i have to design these chairs to at least withstand me. This picture shows some of that joiner interference. The floating tenons that are going into the front and rear legs from the sides are 1.25" wide and 2" long. This is a smaller tenon than what I used in my prototype #3 and I've been balancing that thing on it's rear legs every day for the last month. I really want to see how well the joinery is going to last. In the last month we've also had some cold snaps that have fluctuated the relative humidity in the house 15% so I'm pretty confidant this joinery will last. If it doesn't my shop isn't far away. After cutting joinery on the side rails and the rear legs it is time to mill the front legs and get joinery cut in them. While doing this i managed to $#)@ up one of the legs multiple times. Not once or twice, THREE times I put the mortise in the wrong location.... Luckily it was all in a position where the side rail would cover it up so I just filled the mortise with some floating tenon stock and tried again. The integrity of the joint should be good enough. I'm not really too concerned about this location on the front leg. After getting the side joinery cut it was time to dry fit the sides and measure for the front rail. I wasn't sure how well I built the chairs so I made sure to dry assemble each chair to check the front rail spacing. Turns out I was pretty dang good. 4 Chairs were 14_7/8" 1 chair was 14_3/4" the final chair was 15". With the complexity of the back I'm glad i built the chair from the back forward opposed to from the front back like Marc did in the guild series. I also have ZERO idea why he used screws on the head rest... it was very easy to assemble the chair in this manner and avoid using screws and plugs. After I got the front rails milled and cut to length it was time to template route them. This was done the same was as all the other template routing operations. Rough cut band saw and then router table. With the front rails done I'm officially done with template routing on this project!!!! Making the sleds with the toggle clamps was the best thing I ever did. The template routing went FAST and easy. There was a lot of alternating grain which lead to a few tricky situations. The sleds gave me the confidence to do a LOT of climb cutting. I'd say 50% of my time at the router table I was doing a climb cut so I didn't blow out grain. Some may think that it's dangerous and I was doing it wrong but I never once had an issue with it. I also had zero grain blow out. Here is a picture of all my template sleds. Ok so front rail joinery is going to be difficult. I don't want the side rail joinery to interfere with the front rail joinery. This leaves me little space so To make the joint hopefully strong enough I opted to go for a wide floating tenon. The tenon is about 2.5" wide but only 10mm deep. I think a picture will help this make the most sense. Here is the side rail joinery. The floating tenons for the side will go in first and then the front tenon will go in next. Yep i use metric and imperial on the same project many times. All of my rails are inset 3mm. I could give a leap what the unit is I just use what is in front of me and honestly despite what everyone argues both systems work and have their place though I MUCH prefer fractions as half of 7/13 is really easy to compute (I'm using prime numbers to give a good example as 7/13 is not an even decimal but 7/26 is exactly half and is fast and easy to compute). Also rulers with 64's are easy to read but half decimals of mm doesn't really make sense and they are hard to read. Even MM get hard to read on a ruler as the ticks are kinda small but it's difficult to differentiate between 2 and 3 as well as 7 and 8 mm, well at least it is for me. Ok now that I've lost everyone, I've got the joinery all figured out. So now it's just to throw a round over on all the parts. I did the 1/16" that I did on the rear legs. After the round over was complete I took out my sanding blocks. We've gout #4 (50 degree) and #4 (45 degree). I typically only use the 45 degree grit but sometimes there is a nasty bit here and there and the 50 degree git cleans things up a bit nicer. It's easier to have 2 smoothing plains .... eerrrr sanding blocks, than adjusting the depth of cut on one. The extra 5 degrees on the LN frog does help a LOT. Running the 2 side by side it's painfully obvious. So having 2 i set the Stanley to a bit heavier of a cut to make things go a bit faster and then follow behind it with the LN. It's 2 swipes to finish ready maybe 3. Also BD planes are far superior in every way to BU planes (this is just trolling). I got the first chair in the clamps. Glue up took a bit longer than I wanted it to but was uneventful.
  29. 5 points
    And I just got another one done, this time out of sycamore.
  30. 5 points
    So I found a woodworkers club in my area and I didn’t even know anything like this was out there. I am not trying to advertise so I hope this doesn’t create any issues but I was curious if there are clubs like this in other areas as well? If so do any of you belong to these types of clubs? I have decided I am going to join for several reasons but mainly because they have several courses they offer to help you learn different things and for me it will help me learn more about everything I am using and how to use it properly.
  31. 5 points
    Picture is not from today, as this thread asks about, but from day before yesterday. My clients that own this house have several years worth of work on my waiting list. They want a Cypress Shingle roof, as it had originally. I didn't put this roof on it, but have needed to fix it several times. The edge of these steel shingles were blown up in a previous, moderately strong storm. Knowing that a much more severe storm was on the way, there was little to do but include this in several days of preparation. Not having time to set up scaffolding, I rented this lift. I want one. Park it, turn a key, get in the cage, push some buttons, and you're up where you need to work. The clients are talking about buying one now. It only took me a couple of hours to fix this problem, so I took it down on our point, and did some limbing with my little Makita battery powered chainsaw. I could probably make a living with nothing more than the lift, and little chainsaw. New, these are about 32k. Rental is $210 a day, but I have to drive 45 minutes, one way, to get it. Platform height is supposed to be up to 45 feet. I think that's with the feet on tiptoes, and the extension of the arm out. You can see the shiny metal where that part is telescoped out a little in the picture. These soffits are 27 feet off the ground. We had some wind damage on our place from the extreme winds, but the two pieces of tin blown off the mechanic shop were blown off after the rain had gone through, so no real damage to anything inside. I have the new tin ready to go back on tomorrow, after the wind calms down some. Mike took the photo, and as you can see, he makes no claim to be a photographer.
  32. 5 points
    It worked! It looks so much better! There aren't the huge black splotches that I had before. I probably should have waited to have better light to do it in but here is one coat. Thanks so much for all of your advice and support. I was ready to throw in the towel after redoing it twice already and each time it was getting worse! It's not perfect, but way better than my last attempt.
  33. 5 points
    We've been gone all day down to Natchitoches to tour a shop and a couple of galleries as part of our Woodworking Club we started a little over a year ago. Saw some really cool shop designed and built equipment, too - old iron! Anyway, now that we're back home I headed out to the shop to do a more complex inlay with my newly discovered technique. This is a treble clef about 7" tall and a lot going on for an inlay. I cut the treble clef and promptly broke it in one place so ignore that. I figured it would suffice for my test. I cut the pocket just like I did on the earlier simple test - 2D Pocket to clear followed by 3D Contour with two passes around the sidewall. It was snug but fit, so I did another pass on the sidewall with Stock to Leave set at -0.001" and now it fits just fine. Since I don't want to break it again I didn't press it into place fully but it does fit with enough room for glue. I'll do some others later. David
  34. 5 points
    The basic case complete ... My niece's expressed wish is to have a table front looking as if it was faced by a single board. The original model for this project has two drawers. I did not see this working here since, as their width would be greater than their depth, two drawers would likely rack. Consequently, I decided to build three drawers of equal width (I considered a narrow drawer in the centre, but decided this would be too busy). In order that the figure of the drawer fronts would not be interrupted by the drawer dividers, the drawers are to have half-blind dovetailed side lips, such as these ... The drawers will each have a side lip of 6mm. This requires a 6mm wide side panel on each side of the case, and two 12mm wide drawer dividers. This will allow three drawers to run adjacent to one another, and the three fronts to be cut from a single board. The drawer fronts will come from this board ... Below are the panels for fitting ... It occurred to me later (of course!) that the 6mm end panels could have been made to run with the grain direction of the case. Being the same Jarrah, this would have counted for any expansion/contraction, and there would not be any danger of movement being intrusive. Too late. It's glued. So I did the next best thing, and planed 2mm off the upper and lower edges. This will permit enough movement, if any (it is a small and thin panel). There will not be any gaps seen as the front edges will later receive edging, which will be used as a depth stop. Frankly, the hardest part of this section of the project was accurate marking out of the two central drawer dividers. These need to be both perfectly parallel, and also aligned vertically (the lower panel with the upper panel). There is a second area that needed to checked, which is important for drawers to work well, and this that the lower panel is flat - that is, does not have any hills. I learned my lesson the hard way about this. All good. The way I go about marking the dados for the dividers is to make templates for their position. These are used on both the lower panel, as below, and then the upper panel ... The process is self-explanatory ... The dados are knifed deeply ... Chisel walls cut ... .. and then the waste is removed with a router plane ... The dados are just 2mm deep. That is deep enough to prevent any movement. This process is quick and relaxing (compared to setting up and using a power router). Once done, the process is repeated on the upper panel ... All ready for a dry fit. The rear of the case ... ... and the front ... Happily, all is square ... Tomorrow I shall glue it up. Regards from Perth Derek
  35. 5 points
    Update on the progress here. Sold the saw and workbench for $600 on craigslist. The buyer sent me a text and said he wanted it and never even tried to haggle on the price. I listed it for $600 and that is what I got.
  36. 5 points
    I've been slowly figuring out the details that I want to include on this build as I go. The main thing that needed figuring out was how to ease the edges of the work pieces and what to do with the tops of the legs. I ended up taking one of my french curves and finding a layout I liked. I then made a template and drew on some reference lines. This allows me to strike a line on 2 faces of the end of each leg to make the top of the leg detail. I cut it free hand on the band saw and then clean up with some sand paper. This goes quick and it's not worth trying to figure out a router template. Some hand sanding is done to soften edges. The next big hurdle i was dealing with is how much to round over parts. Some of the parts like the top of the crest rail and the sides of the back rests I wanted to have a bit more of a round over. This will allow the thicker material to look thinner as well as softening the edges more of a part that a person will interact with more regularly. I was searching through bits online to find what I was looking for and couldn't find anything. I wanted a thumbnail type profile but smaller. I ended up finding the profile I wanted in my router bit drawer. I bought a picture frame bit a while back and the top by the bearing is exactly what I was looking for. The profile put the curve on the top of the top rail and the sides of the back rests perfectly. The rest of the edges are rounded over with a 1/16" radius round over bit. It's very slight but softens the edge perfectly. In between these steps surface prep needs to be done on the back rest parts to prep for assembly. After the back is assembled getting my #4 in there to clean up surfaces would be hard. Notable the surface of the legs was not perfectly smooth off the routing template. Dust would some times cause the edge to have a slit ridge or other imperfections. This is quickly solved with a hand plane. The surfaces that receive joinery are left as is to maintain squareness. My work bench is a pile of parts, hand planes, and sanding supplies working on getting all the parts prepped for assembly. I'm quite glad I built my workbench before starting this project. It has been an invaluable tool. To this point I've glued together 2 chair backs. They are sanded rounded and ready for the final joinery and assembly to be done.
  37. 5 points
    Went to Rickey’s today and got my cross tie lumber. I really didn’t need it but its a little curly. Only 125 bdft ..
  38. 5 points
    Having completed the dovetailing of the case, the next step is to bevel the front face, and rebate the rear for a back panel. I had been considering a cove in place of a bevel, however when I mocked this up it came across as appearing too busy. So, back to the bevel. The angle for the bevel was finalised at 55 degrees. This enabled a 6mm (1/4") flat edge and a bevel that ran to roughly 4mm of the first dovetail. A 45 degree bevel would run into the dovetail. The lines for the bevel were marked and then roughed out on the table saw ... The table saw is a slider, and the rip fence was used to position spacers, before clamping a panel for cutting the bevel. The bevel was then finished with a hand plane ... This Jarrah is particularly interlocked but planes well with both a high cutting angle (the little HNT Gordon palm smoother) and a close set chipbreaker (the Veritas Custom #4). Once the bevels were completed, the rear rebate was ploughed ... Now the panels could be assembled into a case once again, and the work examined for tuning. Three of the bevels needed tuning. This ranged from a smidgeon here ... ... to a largish amount ... The case was dissembled and the bevelled edged planed down, re-assembled, checked, pulled apart again, planed ... The rebates at the rear turned out to not require any tuning, with the exception of one corner ... ... where I had obviously forgotten to plane! :\ That was easily rectified ( ... but the case had to be dissembled again). Finally, this is the rear of the case and the completed rebates ... This is a rebated corner ... Here are the front bevelled corners ... This illustrates by the mitres on the corners of the dovetailed case needed to be perfect. Any undercutting would show here. Next, the drawer dividers need to be done. I'll mention here - since I would appreciate the thoughts of others - that this area has been my biggest headache. The reason is that my niece would like the drawers to have the appearance of a single board. However, to achieve this, because of the bevels, is quite complicated. First of all, the table cannot have just two drawers. The width of the drawers will be greater than their depth, and this would likely lead to racking. Consequently, I plan to build three drawers, which will be more favourable for the width vs depth ratio.. Secondly, if the drawers have dividers between them, which they need (since I do not do runners), then there will be a gap between the drawer fronts (which will not flow uninterrupted). As I see it, there are two choices: the first is to build the drawers with planted fronts. This is not a method I like (but it may be expedient). The second option is to set the dovetailed drawers sides back (recess them) to account for the internal drawer dividers. Thoughts? Regards from Perth Derek
  39. 5 points
    Our church had a men's Beast Feast tonight where they served rabbit, deer, duck, alligator, white perch, elk, and pig. I didn't go but from the looks of the cars my guess is there were 60-70 men in attendance. So I figured some Walnut trivets would be good door prizes and I made three plus a US flag. The trivets are finished with mineral oil and the flag is sprayed with Nitrocellulose lacquer. I used gloss but probably should have used semi-gloss. The flag is about 5" x 10" and the trivets range from about 6" to 7" x 10" to 12". Enjoy! David
  40. 5 points
    So it took about 4 hours to get this far. I have probably less than 45 minutes of assembly left to do but I just cannot make it happen tonight. Overall this was a breeze to put together and there is nothing about it that requires 2 people. I posted a picture next to the drill press for size comparison.
  41. 5 points
    A trip around Budapest parliament building revealed lots of woodwork and gilding decorations. They have a staff of 600 looking after the building including a team of woodworkers. The spectacular late 19th century building. And below inside the house of commons where the MPs debate.
  42. 5 points
    I had two wolves, and two leather sofa's. They loved the taste of leather. and I bought stock in Duct tape.
  43. 5 points
    Finally got some time in the shop and I'm navigating new territory right now. I've got the bottom or "base of the chair glued up. I've also got the back of the chair glued up. Just need to glue these together then start on the arms; I've lengthened the back supports and it looks much better to my eye. Everything is fitting together great and before i move to the next step I need some approval from the upholstery guy. I've got the seat supports squared away for the seat cushion and they are glued in place. The supports for the back cushion are a little tricky. My guy want supports attached to the frame but with some space between the supports and the frame. Here's what I've mocked up waiting for his approval, nothing is glued yet with the supports so I can change them it he wants. I'm using hickory for the supports, thought there wasn't a tougher wood out there; I've got about 1/4" space all the way around and I'll glue it to the frame using small 1" blocks, the blocks in the picture are larger than what I plan to use; I've also cut the cushion supports to match the curve and sweep in the back; A couple pics with the back clamped to the base; Also been working on the sanding and shaping and I'm really happy how it's turning out. Once I'm done this chair I will have learned so much in doing chairs with upholstery and I'm very excited to add this to my skill set. After this chair I'll be dreaming of all the new possibilities for future chairs! Thanks for looking.
  44. 5 points
    I live a few miles from Whiteman AFB which operates the B2 Bomber aka Stealth Bomber. They do exercises just about daily so seeing these beauties fly over is almost a daily occurrence.
  45. 5 points
    Here are some photos of the moon I took with a Nikon P900. This camera is phenomenal for its zoom and to think you can get pictures like this for a camera that cost as much as this one does is amazing. I have a Fujifilm that cost 3x as much and it cannot capture a photo like this.
  46. 4 points
    Finally made the drawer fronts. Need to cut the sides; I think I can use the resaw leftovers for the drawer backs. It’s not perfectly square but the next one will be better The right side has no drawer or door as she wants it that way. Simpler for me
  47. 4 points
    The case was glued up yesterday, with everything tight and square as one could wish, but I did not sleep well. I was haunted by the thought that there was a problem that would come to a head some time in the future. If you look at the grain direction of the two centre drawer dividers, you notice that the grain is vertical. That is the way it should be. Wood moves, expands and contracts. It does this in reaction to moisture in the air. When it moves, it does so across the grain. That is why solid wood drawer bottoms have grain across the width - allowing the drawer bottom to move towards the back of the drawer, rather than towards the sides (where it will be blocked and then buckle). These drawer dividers will be butted up against the rear of the drawer lips and act as drawer stops. The front third of the divider will be glued in the dado, forcing any expansion towards the rear of the case. All good. The two spacers at the inside ends of the case have the grain running horizontally. I glued this in before I realised that I had cut them this way. I had done the same with the internal dividers, but re-cut them, as shown in the previous article. The end spacers will expand vertically, and to allow for this, I provided a 2mm gap below and above the panels. That is what kept me awake. The end spacers are 6mm thick. The case, to which they are glued, is 20mm thick and about 40mm wider. Initially I was concerned that the spacer would be overwhelmed by the case moving, and buckle. Having thought some more about this, I am no longer concerned that this will occur. Why? Because movement in the case would instead "stretch" the spacer length-wise. I started to breath again. In the end, I decided to reduce the height of the spacers by half. This would allow them plenty of space to expand, when necessary, as well as reducing their impact inside the case. Here is one side ... Taped for visibility and protection ... The saw is a 16" Wenzloff & Sons tenon saw (10 tpi) ... Three kerfs ... Deepened with a Japanese Azebiki ... ... and split out with a firmer chisel ... A Bahco carbide scraper cleans up ... The result ... Final cleanup was aided by the only shoulder plane that fitted inside the space ... Regards from Perth Derek
  48. 4 points
    I have been using resin in turnings for a little over a year now. You will need a few things. (surprise) A pressure pot is necessary to remove the bubbles, you tube has a bunch of videos on making one from a paint pressure pot. I bought the pot and fittings at Harbor Freight for about $80, you will also need a compressor. . Next you will need the resin, and there are a ton of choices. To limit my confusion, I bought Alumilite clear, which seems to be very popular among turners and is easy to use. I bought the stuff that has a 7 minute open time, my next batch will be the 12 minute, being a newbie with the stuff I don't like being rushed. You will need a scale, again I bought mine a HF. The last need, is tints and Pearlex powder. I bought the tints from Alumilite and found the Pearlex at Michaels. You can buy the molds or just make your own. They make a "special" release agent to spray the molds, but I just use some Teflon dry lube that I have for my table saw. I use whatever plastic jar or PVC I have laying around, cut it to fit the pressure pot and go. I use carbide tools for the most part, but you can work the resin with any sharp tools. It is easy to turn. Turning does make a mess! I have my DC setup with a scoop attached to the banjo of my lathe, the resin is light enough that a lot of the chips get sucked right in, but it is a lathe so expect a mess. Sanding can get involved, and of course there is a lot of expensive, and depending on who you listen to, mandatory, products to polish the resin. But again I make my own, and bought an inexpensive polish at the auto parts store and I am pleased with the results. As @Mark J said the resin is pricey but depending on the sized of the project it does go along way. If you use "filler" wood, that will be turned away it reduces the amount of resin needed. Last year my wife asked me to make some buttons for one of her projects, I made some from scrap wood, but she wanted color. So I went into our yard picked up some pinecones and with the resin made some buttons. That was a mistake! She showed them to her quilting group and the orders immediately poured in. I ended up making arraignments with a local quilt store and put them up for consignment. At $5 apiece I made all of my initial investment back in less than two weeks, and now I can't keep up with the demand.
  49. 4 points
    I’m often amazed and impressed at the Woodworking and non-woodworking knowledge the members on here have. And just as often have no clue as to what they are saying on most subjects but sounds cool anyway!
  50. 4 points
    I am not likely to win any prizes, but I enjoy the pursuit.