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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/22/19 in Posts

  1. 9 points
    We are moving now. Here's my progress since last post.... This post I tackle the seat joints, pre-assembly shaping, and the seat glue up. Cut the back notches for the rear leg joints. A few thoughts here, first the size of the notch is only somewhat important. I try to be dead on but as you'll see with assembly there is extra seat here extending out past the rear leg. So if you cut the notch at 2 15/16ths" instead of 3", you'll be fine. The real big deal is the fact that this notch needs to be dead on square, I mean dead on. The front notches are only 1/4" deep, I set up the blade and the fences so the cut is done without needing any adjustments. Also I just leave on my standard blade and nibble away, quicker than setting up the dado stack; Against the Incra stop; Against the tablesaw fence; Cut is a little rough at first; Router plane makes quick work of this and gives me a perfectly flat surface. I would have used the router plane with the dado stack anyway, another reason I just use a standard blade for this notch. Once you have your notches it's time to route the notch to develop the classic Maloof joint outline. I find using the handheld router here a mistake waiting to happen. To me the router table with the starter pin in place gives me much more control; Few minutes later, looking good. With the maple I did get some burning, esp with the end grain. I don't think there is any avoiding this and the joint has a ton of gluing surface anyway; Now before I glue up the seat I'm going to take a minute to do some pre-assembly shaping. This helps a ton developing the contour of the future seat. The outside boards are placed next to the already cut boards they will be glued to. I strike a line for depth and begin shaping. Here you can see my guide lines; One side done; other side done. Take notice how little dust is present on the table. This operation was completed by the Festool Ras and took about 7 minutes per board!!! Is it necessary to do this pre-assembly shaping. No, but it helps. I can hold my RAS at an angle that is not possible when the seat is assembled. If you look at this photo you can see the RAS disc would be digging into the adjacent board. To do this operation once the seat is assembled you need to hold your grinder in a much more awkward and less effective angle; Here's a view of board number 4, I'm pretty aggressive with my reduction. I was aware of my domino placement and we should be fine. Once the seat is completely shaped then I would expect this area to be slightly over 3/4" at it's thinnest; Finally, all glued up, I almost forgot you need to put the seat in this position so glue doesn't drip down into your joints. Positioned wrong at first but caught myself; So you can see from above I'm well on my way to shaping this seat, it's nothing more than blending together the boards now. Also with shaping I think the biggest thing I see people do that I don't think looks good is they scoop out on the perimeter at a harsh slope to their depth then they have a large flat area 1" below the top of the seat. I want my slope to be more gradual and much less "flat" area. This shape tend to cradle the legs and the backside and is much more comfortable. I'll elaborate on this in the next post as shaping the seat is on the agenda then. These operations took just 1 hr, so I'm sitting at 4.5hrs so far. Thanks for looking.
  2. 8 points
    I finished the back rest, for the most part, which was the last major part of the project to take care of. I didn't follow the guild plans here, I when with wider slats, 3 inches top and bottom and 2 inches wide on the four in the middle, I also went with staight side rails for the backrest to keep the design closer to the older style Morris chairs. I do need to do a little fit and finish on the slats. After that I need to chamfer the arms and the back rest parts and then a far amount of sanding before I start the glue up.
  3. 5 points
    With the face on and the 2 adjustable shelves. Other than finishing and a few details, I am starting on the 2 tops. Some very nice 8/4.
  4. 4 points
    As I've promised I'm going to journal my next Maloof Rocker build. This is one of my favorite all time builds and this will be my 5th rocker in the past 2 years (third rocker of this year). I started building chairs about 4 years ago and it has become an obsession to me. During that time period I've built approx 30 chairs. I've learned a lot along the way. For all those who have been wanting to start this build I'd encourage you to get started, it is a challenging but immensely satisfying build. Since this is a guild project I'll be following basically Marc's instructions and I'll point out where I've deviated from his directions. Marc does a great job with this build and with my first rocker I followed his directions down to the letter. Since then I've built chairs that were from plans supplied by Charles Brock and Scott Morrison. I've picked up a few tricks from these guys and my build will be an amalgamation of what I've learned from all three. The wood will be some gorgeous curly hard maple from @Spanky, I'm excited to use this lumber. I ordered two batches from him and one batch is a little more curly than the other, but I think it will all look great in the end. I know one thing, I'm saving every scrap of this during the build. Finally, in some of my past builds many of you have asked how long it takes me for one of these builds, I'll try my best to record the time I take to complete each step and try to keep a running tally as I go. I originally thought I'd start this around Thanksgiving, but I'm getting an earlier start. This build will be slow though, as it's prime surf fishing season here in the Mid-Atlantic region, and I'll be playing hooky from work and from the shop to wet a line. Started the project by going thru the stock and began milling the parts. The seat is made from 5 pieces, approx 4" wide and 22" long. I had a board that was 11" wide, I was able to get two 22" lengths from this board and then I was able to get two 4.25" wide boards from each length and one 2.5" wide board from each length. I glued these two thinner boards together to make the center board for the seat; Back legs, always good to get these from the same board and I had nice grain to follow at the bottom of the leg, headrest will likely come from the piece above and the adder blocks will come from the waste between the legs; The front legs and the arms; The back slats, you need 7, I'll cut out 8; The plan calls for the width of the back slats is to be 1.5", I like my slats a little skinnier, these will be around 1.25", to me wide back slats look clunky. No matter how wide the main part of the back slat is, it still goes down to a 3/8th" tenon into the headrest, so thinner back slats are not weaker; This is my piece for the rocker laminations, unfortunately I found some bark inclusions as I was prepping. I should have enough usable material and I can work around those inclusions; Once stock selection was completed I moved on to the 5 seat boards. Glued up the 2 skinnier boards, jointed, planed and cut to length. Once that is completed I need to cut the 3 degree bevels for the coopered seat. These bevels will be on both sides of the middle board and on the out side of both boards that join with the middle board. You can see the direction of the bevels marked on the end of the boards in this pic; ****Real quick, a point about the coopered seat, I've done these seats both ways, coopered and just flat. I do like the coopered look a little better, but it's not extreme. The flat seat also looks pretty darn good. The coopered seat is definitely an option you can use or skip.**** Cutting the bevels, table saw set at 3 degrees: Bevels cut and marking out domino placement; This next step is really a little tricky, you need to domino into a beveled surface on some boards. Marc does a nice job of this and cuts all his slots with the 90 degree guide on the domino retracted, and the base of the domino sitting on his workbench. This results in a domino slot positioned toward the bottom of the boards and out of the way for future sculpturing, but is very difficult to do on boards 2 and 4, as the bevel orientation makes it difficult to get a correctly positioned domino slot and have it perpendicular with the face of the board. But his technique works great for the centerboard joints. Below is a pic of the domino cutting the slots into the centerboard, you put the domino on the bench and slightly tilt to the face is perpendicular the the joint, it's hard to see if it's tilted, but it is, the opposing surface for this joint is 90 degrees, so you simply put the domino on the bench and plunge into the 90 degree surface; Now with the other joints, the angle of the bevel prevents you for doing what I did above. So instead I set the angle of the domino to 87 degrees and cut the slot using the fence. To do this you need to put the fence on the bottom of the board as the reference for your plunge cut; Charles Brock handles cutting the dominos a little differently than Marc did, and I do a mix of their techniques. Now that the dominos slots are cut, I assemble and cut the seat to the correct width, you do this by cutting the excess equally for both outside boards. Once the width is correct I draw the outline for sculpting the seat; Pre-sculpting bandsaw reduction is next. I want to cut my reduction with the 90 degree side of boards 2 and 4 on the bandsaw table, in this pic you see which side is which; I then draw a line 1" from the bottom and develop a reduction cut line from that. I take a lot off, I want a deep seat; Here's the board on the bandsaw, 90 degree jointed surface on the table. You can also see from the above pic I've got plenty of stock over my domino slots. The center board is tricky, you have a bevel on both sides; You can mess with your bandsaw table and put it at 3 degrees, or you can just cut from both sides, as the cut angles toward the surface and the end result is just a ridge in the middle of the board where your 2 cuts intersect; Here are my 3 center boards with their pre-sculpting cuts, you can see in the center board I just have a little ridge, toward the front I've cut out an outline for the pommel; Next are the joints that are cut into the outside boards and some pre-sculpting shaping. It's easier to do some gross shaping while the boards are apart. Almost forgot, I'm about 3.5 hours into this.
  5. 4 points
    Don't tell me you made a curly cherry cross tie! That's not right, you can't do that. Isn't there a law or something against that.
  6. 4 points
    Hi everyone. I have been turning for about 3 years. It’s a true love of mine. I recently had a son and so I have not been in the shop much lately. Glad to be on the site.
  7. 3 points
    Finally home from a long work road trip! Had some catching up to do! A few projects to get done that have been piling up! Only the bathroom vanity was done for YouTube.. 1. Table Lazy Susan and a cutting board for 2 different clients.. 2. A thread storage cabinet for my wife's quilting room 3. Bathroom Vanity for a client. 4. And, a floating picture frame for a family member..
  8. 3 points
    Here's my final review on the PM2000B - This video isn't public yet but, thought I'd give you guys the first look. https://youtu.be/qARex9vM_Lo
  9. 3 points
    Mineral spirits and a comb works. For paint & finish waste, I mix it with wood shavings and let it dry, then bag it for the trash. Our local landfill will accept most any type of finish as long as it has cured.
  10. 3 points
    Sharpening discussions are filled with answers, all (or none) of which may be right for you. I used to sharpen with oil stones, but recently purchased a double-sided diamond plate, 400 and 1200 grit. That, and a stick of mdf with polishing compound, are all I use, and my edges are quite satisfactory. I think the key is to get sharp, and STAY sharp. Don't let the edge dull so much that coarse grinding is necessary.
  11. 3 points
    Sometimes you just have to pause for moment so you don't commit murder.
  12. 3 points
    I made a desk for our office a couple of years back. Alison had a friend over who enjoyed wine very, very much. She wanted to see what I was working on (the desk) so we went out to the shop. She walked over to the desk and set her wineglass down on it - ½ an hour after I'd put the final coat of Arm-R-Seal on it. I moved faster than I knew I was capable of. No harm to the finish. I handed it back to her and she turned around and set it on my tablesaw. We moved back into the house.
  13. 3 points
    All the slats for the back rest are glued up. There was more spring back in these then the arms but I new that was going to be the case going in because Marc talked about it in the videos. So just to keep that to a minimum I left each on in the clamp-up over night. I got the leg that I buggered up re-done and then cut the pyramids on the top of each. Then I did the same on the front chair legs with the thru mortise and tenon. Left arm. Right arm Next up I have to make the jig for cutting the tenons on the back slats. Getting close to a glue up or two.
  14. 2 points
    Bmac I know my wood pile not as big as your wood pile, but it’s bigger than Cousin Dave’s wood pile.
  15. 2 points
    Cousin Dave, check out this curly cherry cross tie I cut today.
  16. 2 points
    Search William Ng 5 cuts to a perfect crosscut sled on YouTube he does a nice job of explaining how to get it spot on.
  17. 2 points
    Such is one of the challenges when using veneer. I suggest spraying very dilute dye in successive coats until things match up. On scraps of course. I've had success with tinting shellac & brushing it on to match colors also.
  18. 2 points
    I use old paint thinner by using it for the initial wash, then a wash with fresh thinner, then I work in a big blob of dish soap, rinsing well. It actually seems to get the last finish residue better than just using paint thinner alone. I collect the spent mineral spirits in an old thinner container. When it gets full, I take it to a recycling facility.
  19. 2 points
    "Grund" -dispersion primer "In contrast to conventional paints, the feel and appearance continue to be reminiscent of a raw, finely ground wood. The best result is achieved with a previous primer by Bona White. Enjoy the feeling of natural wood."
  20. 2 points
    If you do some of the shaping like Bmac points out before you glue the seat up it really speeds things up. I was able to get the seat carved more accurately more quickly using his method.
  21. 2 points
    HAHAHAHAHA this one does also. I picked up 4 more LEDs today. Those kind ain't cheap either.
  22. 2 points
    +1 This is a very very important thing!
  23. 2 points
    I’ve used trans tint mixed it with dewaxed shellac but I have only used it on small table tops and small tables applied with a foam brush and I don’t know if that’s the best way or not but I did have great results
  24. 2 points
    LED lights are sweet. For sure gonna add a few more.
  25. 1 point
    Apologies for being late back to this thread.. The chair is looking awesome Chet! Your attention to detail is very evident! Question.. How will the upholstery be done? Apologies if you covered it earlier..
  26. 1 point
    Chet, do you have the ottoman in your future plans? Hell of a job so far.
  27. 1 point
    That is really too bad especially for a guy who travels, when you're home you need the tools to work!
  28. 1 point
    I'd love to have a PM jointer or drum sander in my shop, but for the price premium I'd expect SawStop like quality & service. I've just read too many horror stories about PM in the last couple of years to risk it. My only experience with them was when I was shopping for a table saw. A call with questions to customer service was met with borderline rudeness and a lack of product knowledge. I bought a SawStop.
  29. 1 point
    Check out this guy's channel. He goes into great detail on how he fixes stuff in old furniture. I seem to recall he did a piece that had a messed up keyhole.
  30. 1 point
    I took a look at some catalog photos and, sure enough, ECE has cheapened up and gone to cross dowels versus the traditional wedge mortise (not right, but my brain is not finding the right word at the moment). This makes me wonder if they have also moved away from tapered blades. That would be a real loss if they have, but tapered blades are harder to make and we are all so eager to get tools cheaper these days. With this plane you really want a tapered blade, with the cross dowel it doesn't matter so much, even a tapered blade will wiggle loose after a while because there is less bearing surface to exert friction on it. A source for tapered blades is: https://redrosereproductions.com/tapered-bench-plane-irons/ It will cost you around $80 if they have one that fits. I suspect the taper is ground on these, old pre-20th century blades would have been forged that way. An alternative is eBay. Search for "tapered plane blade" or "tapered plane iron" and you will find a lot of choices from 100+ years ago. many of these come from discarded planes, mostly in England where they still value these things. Here they just go to the dump. I threatened to explain why you want a tapered blade, nobody asked, so I will do the brain download anyway. If you compare the blade to the wedge that holds it you will see that the tapers are in opposition to each other. When you push on the plane, if the blade shifts at all it won't shift much before it gets locked in place due to the opposing tapers. Contrast that to the Krenov style plane with a flat blade and cross-dowel. There is nothing to increase the pressure if the blade slips; it just goes on slipping. This makes these planes disagreeable to adjust. You have to drive in the wedge a lot harder which puts more stress on the plane. And with the wedge driven in so hard, it's harder to finesse the blade in place to take that paper thin shaving we all crave. No disrespect for Mr. Krenov. He brought back the craft from the dead (with a little help from others) and there were good reasons to design a plane that budding woodworkers could make with little skill and still get satisfactory results.
  31. 1 point
    Honestly since I bought the lathe all the other woodwork has pretty much stopped. It’s so addicting. It’s nice to just create versus measuring 3 times and cutting a piece only to be 1/32 off and it looks like crap. Haha
  32. 1 point
    To explain my method a little more, I don't care if the whole bevel is honed, or not. As an example, if I want a 25 degree edge, the iron, or chisel is ground a degree, or two sharper to start with, but only visits the grinder if the edge gets damaged. That way, the honing only is done on the cutting edge. It gradually might take over the whole bevel with each sharpening. It doesn't seem to take any more time regardless of how much of the bevel it takes over. With a progression of waterstones, it still only takes 5 or 6 strokes per stone. If I'm in the middle of a planing session, typically the starting stone is the 6k. I might hand plane all the siding on a house, and typically any exposed surface in the old houses I work on. We also use Really sharp chisels for a lot of things other than regular woodworking-anything from trimming caulking, to reshaping a molding plane profile. I came up with this system because my helpers (at the time I had two, now down to one) were hopeless at sharpening anything by hand. These allow any jig to exactly repeat a given edge angle. Anyone can get a sharp edge with my method. It turned out so well, that it's rare I use any other method, unless I'm out of the shop.
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    Great info Bmac! I really like that you used the router table vs hand held. When I did my bar stools it was very difficult to keep the router flat. So will you do 100% of the power shaping with the RAS? I really liked mine but still used a grinder to start, might have to try all RAS on my rocker.
  35. 1 point
    Lovin' the ride-a-long. thanks for the many pics and descriptions of your methods.
  36. 1 point
    Huh, no one ever wants to hang out in my shop long. I think they are all afraid I'm going to put them to work or something.... My dad put a cup down on cast iron. I explained to him that it could leave a rust ring on the cast iron and he never did it again. He gets a pass on all non-safety shop rules as he had to put up with me messing up all his things for a good 12 years. Now that i have my own shop i get his frustration with me when i was a teenager.
  37. 1 point
    I would use a spray bottle to raise the grain on the whole chair and then sand back smooth. After you wet the grain and sand smooth the wood shouldn't raise again. If you want to play it safe you could try wetting the surface again to see what happens. You could use alcohol with the dye, the fumes will be pretty strong. I wouldn't use lacquer thinner, it will probably work but the fumes would be deadly. Even coloring is going to be achieved by an even coat of a well dispersed dye. The dye mixes well in water and alcohol and not so well in oil solvents aka mineral spirits. If you want a perfect application I highly suggest to apply the dye via HVLP. Maple blotches in a not so attractive way sometimes so that is something that doesn't suit the best to wiping but isn't an issue spraying. I don't think you'd need something like a Fuji, a conversion gun would probably work great but I'd practice. Best part is you can practice with water and raise the grain at the same time. Also applying dye with the shellac is possible but it can be tricky as well. If you get a dry edge and overlap you could get dark lines etc. Drips while applying on the chair may be very hard to manage. That said Dave did a bang up job above.
  38. 1 point
    Making a step up on a tool is always inspiring. Sounds like your new saw puts a smile on your face. I started with a used contractor saw and went through the steps that a lot of folks do. I can say that even at the humble beginning, taking the time to setup my machines to their best potential paid big dividends and extended their useful life. There is some discussion here about aligning your saw on two planes. Aligning at 90 degrees and setting up your rip scale is great. Addressing alignment at other angles becomes important as soon as you want a bevel cut to match up to something else . . . or not burn or bind. There are a lot of great folks on here who will go the distance to help others. Lots of good historical threads on a lot of topics as well. It looks like you have a good start on your journey and woodworking forums are a good resource to use along the way. I am particularly enjoying your progress as I am trapped between shops right now for the first time in many years. From here: to here: I'm currently living vicariously through others
  39. 1 point
    I see you got a new dust collector, as well!
  40. 1 point
    I just spoke to the Customer Service Department at Kreg Tool. They were wonderful...! They admitted the problem with my router motors could indeed be the "slop" in the vertical adjustment mechanism, even though they had not had any previous complaints of similar problems. They are shipping out a new router lift today.
  41. 1 point
    I am partners with Shelby Stanga from the TV Show AX Men.
  42. 1 point
    I spent 32 years OTR. I know how tough it is to have a hobby, especially when home time is not only rare but way short.
  43. 1 point
    Gee-dub, Thanks for the idea. Next time I have work that gets me working on the floor I will make some knock down tables first. Knock down puts me over the top. I have no room for fixtures that do not knock down. Making some progress...Shelves and 2 tops to make. The base unit is far more than half the work. And bench work agrees with me compared to on the floor with the drawers.
  44. 1 point
    Beautiful shop Mick, I love your total setup. There is however one thing I don't feel good about. It makes me look like a slob.
  45. 1 point
    The pyramids for the stool were cut on the table saw with the blade set at 15 degrees and then sanded in the direction of the grain on all four surfaces using my good ol' prepin weapon sanding blocks, went 120, 150, 180 then with just a small piece of 320 to finish it off. For the chair arms I milled up a piece of stock about 8 inches long. The 8 inches was just to give me enough to work with when cutting it and then holding it in the vise to sand and in case I messed up on my first try. I ran it through the drum sander until I had the perfect fit in the arm mortise. Then I cut a pyramid on each end and sanded it that same way as before. I cut a 1/4 inch of the top of the existing tenon on the front legs. Then I cut the pyramid at a length that would fit down onto the top of the leg tenon. I sanded the bottom of the pyramids until I had an exposure that I was happy with. I will glue the pyramids in after the chair is all assembled.
  46. 1 point
    Not a huge update here. I've mostly been playing with patterns and trying to figure out some of the tricky aspects this build is going to present. I did a second sculpting of a seat and it turned out better than the first. Talking with Bmac I determined that I was trying to create too steep of a slope on the back edge of the seat and it was causing me to dig in a bit too much. I also approached the power carving a bit differently. All in all things worked out much better but i need to do more testing so i can get each seat more uniform. One of the key things stressed by Bmac is to do pre-carving. In the image above you can see the outline for the seat. This goes to the band saw and gets cut out. The pommel area also gets shaped at the band saw cutting on an angle. The boards just right of center get traced and cut after the center. The outside boards I shaped free hand with the band saw but after talking to Bmac he mentioned power carving them before gluing the seat up. I can see how this would be a big benefit and I'm going to try that on my next seat and cover this in more detail. I got the cherry for this project last week and have it acclimated and stacked in the shop. While I've been working on the Roubo I've also been cutting out and shaping the templates for the chairs. I printed details from my cad drawing to scale at work. I had to stitch together 11x17 sheets to get the sizes i need. After i got them all stitched together I secured them to some 1/4" ply with spray adhesive. I won't be using these for template routing, well maybe. I might make some template sleds, or I might just use them to trace lines, cut to the line on the band saw and shape with hand tools. Not sure. With some of the sharper curves I'm probably goign to have to do the template routing method. These will for sure help me determine grain layout on project parts.
  47. 1 point
    I liked Marc's breadbox build very much. Alison liked most of it. We compromised and below is the result. Air-dried walnut with ambrosia maple door and drawer, with ebony pulls.
  48. 1 point
    Be careful what you 'almost' wish for. I certainly did not have long to wait.
  49. 1 point
    Pretty quick and simple to make. There's quite a few videos out there on making them, this is just my take..
  50. 1 point
    Had another request for these so, decided to do something a little different with them!