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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/20/19 in Posts

  1. 15 points
    Most all of you saw the Final Gift for my Wife when she passed. She and I agreed that I would build her final resting place. It was a painful and joyous experience. Since then I pondered what was next for me, being alone and old with only a house mouse to share my days. After 4 or 5 months of mourning and praying, and crying, I thought I could help other people with the expense of buying a casket. On average, caskets run about $2500.00 and the sky's the limit from there. We have a local sales site, somewhat like Craigslist, but it's just for Middle Tennessee. You can find anything you want on that site, and it's mostly nice local country folk, for the most part. So, I put an ad with a couple of pictures of the casket I built for my wife. It got a ton of hits, but it took a few months before anyone called. We talked, and he drove 30 miles to come talk with me and tell me what he wanted done. His idea was he wanted just a plain Pine box, with the exception that he wanted it made out of Cedar. The reason was he had a source for inexpensive Cedar and a source for drying that Cedar. It was coming from his property, which made it personal. What he wanted from me was the labor to construct it. We talked about my hourly rate, and settled on what amount of time I would have in it and we agreed on a price. He then told me, that he really wanted two done. One each for him and his wife. They're just simple nice church going folks and felt that the trees were his and he didn't want anything fancy. I can do "not" fancy. So he went about getting the trees cut, milled and dried, I took some time, and life has a way of interrupting the flow of things. I had a horrible back surgery, and when I was just about ready to start, he broke some bones in his foot. After we were both healed for the most part, he brought the wood. Nice tight Cedar, 1" thick 6" wide and more or less 8' long. The frustration for me is that there was an enormous amount of sap wood, and I wanted to try and use as little of that as possible. With Cedar, your gonna get sapwood no matter what you try to do. In the process of constructing these I was very choosy with the boards, and as I was putting things together, I invited him down several times to get a feel for the process. Each time he dropped by, he wanted to make a change about design. Since the changes he wanted were in front of what I was already doing, it wasn't a major problem. But I told him finally, "every time you come here you add more time in the construct and your cost is going up each time". He said okay, just add it to my tab. The final construct is large box joints at all four corners, with all the joints pinned with contrasting dowels, a small piece of trim on the side that can hardly be seen. Hand rails that I had to make extra, because in the start of this build I had told him I had some Poplar just the perfect size for the rails. He wanted Cedar. So Cedar he got The insides are finished with one coat of satin poly, the exterior has a base coat of satin poly and two coats of gloss poly. And they are for the most part, plain caskets They are dried and cured and he's coming this week, to pick them up one at a time. He's going to store them in a room in his house that is climate controlled, then he has a friend in the cardboard business that is going to double wrap them and seal them close til they are needed. All this because Cedar "sucks", to work with, sucks moisture and twists and warps like a pole dancer. But here they are. Comments are welcome. Oh, and since he and his wife have been married more than 50 years, I figured they kinda like each other, so I added one single adornment on the lid of each one at no charge.
  2. 12 points
    We have a new addition to the family! I don't know about you guys, but the drive home from the hospital is nerve wracking. I don't think I exhaled for two hours. Gotta say though, SCM knows how to build a car seat! Once we got it home I could breathe a sigh of relief. A 765 lb baby is not easy to handle. 848 lbs in its car seat! They're so cute when they sleep. Whoa! Pulled herself right up! Settling right in! Beautiful baby if I do say so!
  3. 12 points
    I made this for my niece's new baby boy. Just a small box from Wenge and Oak. I was trying to come up with something a little different for a handle on the lid... his name is Noah.
  4. 11 points
    Blades came yesterday so I installed the 1" Lenox CT. Not having had a blade I couldn't square the table up, so I took a few minutes to do that. +1 on the tilt simplicity and stability. I adjusted the blade guides, which are really similar to the ones on my Inca, but with easier adjustments - parallel side roller bearings with micro-adjustment and a perpendicular thrust bearing behind, top and bottom. The micro-adjustments are very easy and hold their settings. Hopefully with a 1" blade they'll never come into play. Same with the thrust bearings. This saw is capable of really high tension, but once you get any flutter out of the blade it tracks great without having to crank the tension. No discernible drift at all. The blade guide post was set perpendicular from bottom to top. The chain and sprocket lift mechanism is a joy. +1! Within the first inch of resawing a ~6" sapele cutoff (covered in hydraulic fluid, but that's a whole other story) I knew it was a keeper. Like butta! The cut was consistent along the length of the piece with a very nice finish. +1 I'll post a more in-depth review of the saw once I have some time on it, but for now, WOW!
  5. 10 points
    Just a couple of pics of recently completed wall cabinet. 26" x 18" x 7". This is inspired by Mike Pekovich and his latest book. Thank you , Mike. As I got into this one, I was amazed by the amount of work. All the dovetails and through tenons made this project great experience precise layouts and a good opportunity to explore diffferent ways of cutting the joinery. I don't have a mortiser , but I tried combinations of router, drill press, band saw, table saw and chisels. Did not use dovetail jig. Learned quite a bit. All joints are dovetails or through M&T except for the 3 thin shelves which are set into stopped dados. Cabinet is eucalyptus, door and drawer fronts are mahogany. I like the mahogany, I am not crazy about the color of the lyptus now that it is finished. I think that QSWO would have been a better choice. The back is 1/4" lyptus shiplap. It is hung with a french cleat. All pieces were finished with 2 coats of shallec and 2 thin coats of ARS satin before assembly. I will need to make another one to correct the major mistake I made with this one. Did not notice it until my first dry fit of the cabinet. But by that time all the dovetails and mortises were cut and I decided to complete it just for the education. This piece was made specfically for the cast bronze Gargoyle bell that was a wedding present from my Best Man (a sculptor). It's been in our living room wherever we lived since 1972.
  6. 9 points
    I bought this #3 a long time ago put it in a drawer and never did anything with it. Well honestly at the time I bought 2 #3s (i still have the other one), and i took some parts and switched them around to make one more "authentic". This casting came with the stamp "DAMAGED" on it. I found that very interesting. I did some research before i bought it and from the research it sounds like it was a factory second that was sold to a Stanley employee. The handles that came on the casting were some bright orange home made looking things. I swapped them with the rosewood handles from the 2nd #3 I bought. I like to keep the work i do to the planes to a minimum. I don't really like to do the evaporust method as I find that it leaves an odd looking surface. So I cleaned up the sides and sole with some sand paper on my out feed table. It made a big mess. Though it was easy to clean up with some sandpaper on a sander. After the sand paper i further worked the surface with green scotchbrite, finishing with some polishing compound. I did a bit of work to the mating surface of the frog. It was VERY rough. Then i bought a new Hock o1 blade and got it tuned up. It takes a very nice shaving and the size is small but works for me. I'm excited to put it to use on a project. Figured I'd line up all my vintage planes on the aircraft carrier for a picture
  7. 9 points
    I have a few living room tables to make. Most of them are going to be my typical style that runs with the theme of the room but there is going to be one oddball that will be fun to make and i want to try something new. The first table on the list is the easiest. I just need to copy an end table i made a few years back. The main goal was to use up some reclaimed cherry from a bedroom door someone gave me. It was a solid cherry door that they cut some pieces off of so it was no longer usable as a door. Not bad for a reclamied wood project eh? First step was to make the MDF fence for my miter gauge that i've been meaning to make for a while now. After that was done it was as simple as cutting parts to get kinda close to the same size as the other table. I used the domino for the joinery. and also to attach the side slats on. It's the same techniquie I did for the last one. Used the drum sander to sand the slats to fit perfectly in a 6mm mortise. I used the table saw to establish the shoulder on 2 sides and cut the rest back until they fit. Next was to get everything finish prepped. #4 to the rescue! Marc mad a post on social media about rounding corners with a sander. I've never had that problem with a handplane and it's a ton faster to get perfect finish ready. I don't sand much any more after my smoother because it honestly makes the surface look worse. After finish prep it was a pretty painless assembly. Then it was on to making the top. The previous table has an ash top that came from scraps from a build i did a LONG time ago. Luckily i always planned on making 2 and kept the scraps. I ran it through the drum sander after it was glued up to even everything out. Because the grain is kinda crazy and i get a lot of tear out on this wood I took off the drum sander grit marks with a card scraper. Took me maybe 10 min to go from 80 grit to finish ready. Total time was about 10 hours. Just need to apply finish.
  8. 9 points
    Finished at last ! A few thoughts to finish this up. Greene and Greene: probably not, the more I looked at them the more I thought more Stickley or Praire or Mission style but not G&G, the shade maybe but now I want to make a true G&G style(someday) The glass: the sky is the limit here and personal taste of course, I would like to have my glass guy do a scene of some kind. Trees, sky, earth something to show off his talent. Base: I think the box joints came out great but I could have used them on the skirt for the shade as well, not to pleased with the pieces I added on to the bottom of the base on the corners, you can tell they were add-on, should have used thicker wood or not at all, wanted the height for the cloud lift. Fuming and shellac : I will be doing this again I really like the effect on the QSWO, both were new to me, and making garner shellac was the way to go, thanks again for the help @pkinneb, and @Chet Light bulbs: 2 LED, 100 watt equivalent. Finish: 2 coats of ARS satin but it did impart a slight tint, next time water bases for the clear color. Thanks to everyone for the great comments and following along. It’s been a long journey for me and I think I’ll take a day or two off
  9. 8 points
    I absolutely love making small boxes and it had been a while since I last made one. As you guys know, boxes are awesome because you get to practice joinery and do experiments on something small scale so if you screw up a part you will only be wasting a small piece instead of something large like the entire leg of a trestle table. I'm getting close to being done on what I have titled The Up-Side Down Right-Side Up Placebo Box. (The "Up-Side Down Right-Side Up" part I will explain later.) The box will be used to house some essential oils which I like to tease my wife and call them placebo oils. It is beyond the scope of this journal to get into whether essential oils actually work because of the placebo effect, or if they work because of like....science or whatever. Many of them do seem to work for me, though there is a really good chance they are only working because of the placebo effect, but as long as they work I don't care why they are working. I'm not done with this box yet but here are a couple of pictures to start off with of the dry assembly with not handle on the lid. Gives you a sense of the over-all look. I was shooting for a Japanese-ish style look. I think I pulled that off. This design started off with bad drawings. I used the technique that Mike Pekovich wrote about in his book that many of you have recommended. (I recommend it also.) The one where you make lots of small drawings and do them fast with very little detail. That way you can crank out lots of different designs in a small amount of time. Doing this I quickly identified what I did and did not like. Once I had a design concept figured out I measured some placebo bottles to figure out the overall inside dimensions. This concludes the planning part of this project, I'm more of a fly by the seat of your pants kind of guy. And with that, it was time to make saw dust. Here is the board I am making this box out of. This is teak that is approximately 3/4" thick. I did not buy this board because as most of you folks know teak prices are kind of on the high side. I got this board from a local guitar maker. He had come to me because he needed a wrap done on a guitar for some event (for my day job I own a sign company so wrapping vehicles and other things is a big part of what we do) and he needed it in a hurry. Once we were done with the wrap he asked what he owed me, well if you know any guitar makers then you know all of them have a collection wood that they "will make something out of some day", so I told him that he had to pay me in wood. He gave me this piece of teak (which has some kind of oil finish on it in the picture) a smaller highly figured piece of teak and some canary wood. It pays to be friends with guitar makers. I started by just milling up the box sides. I did all this by hand except I used my planer for thicknessing. To get the ends true for the dovetails I needed to use a shooting board. Which was a problem because I don't have a shooting board. I have been meaning to make one for like a year or so, I just had not gotten around to doing it. No time like the present I guess. It went pretty well too. I was very surprised that I was able to get it square of the very first try. Have a look! There is zero light leaking through. Feels good man. Dovetail time. I'm a dirty cheater and am using the Katz-Moses jig. This is only the second time attempting dovetails and I just don't have the hours to dedicate to properly learning hand cut dovetails. So stop judging me jerks! The above is my dovetail gear. What you don't see is any chisels. That is because I don't have dovetail chisels, I know you don't NEED dovetail chisels, but I wanted some, so I made some. I posted this in another thread but for those of you who did not see that post I'm going to post it here as well. I had just read The Joiner and the Cabinet Maker (which I can't recommend enough by the way) and in that book Christopher Schwarz explains how to make dovetail chisels. According to Schwarz you can just get some cheap chisels and file the side bevels to a point. Schwarz also says that you can use a grinder or a belt sander instead of a file as long as you don't let the metal get so hot it looses it's temper. So, equipped with some extremely high quality Harbor Freight chisels I got to grinding with a belt sander. The chisel on the left is the before and the two on the right are the after. Took me maybe 10 minutes tops. Honing and sharpening took longer. They are not pretty, not by a long shot. But they work like a charm! It was hot that day by the way. I had a swamp cooler running in my garage that is why the humidity is so high. Yes, here in Arizona, 30% humidity is high. The coping saw (or maybe that is a fret saw, I always get the two confused) was from Harbor Freight as well. I assumed that it would be worthless and frustrating, but the thing cut like a champ. This teak is extremely easy to work this so I don't know how the saw would have performed in something less forgiving like oak, but I am happy with how well it did. Dry fit of the sides. I did not plan to make these proud dovetails, I wanted the dovetails to be just a tiny bit proud so that I could just plane them flush. I added 1/16" which was way too much. But I love it. So I'm keeping it. With the sides of the box done it's time to make the bottom and the top. These are pretty simple in that both of them are just rectangles with a bevel, but I was having trouble wrapping my head around how to do the bevel. Then I remembered something I heard in a Youtube video at some point. I can't remember who said it (I think it was either the Highland Woodworker or maybe William Ng) but it has stuck with me for years. I'm not going to quote it but it was something to the effect of: If you break woodworking down to it's simplest form, woodworking is just marking a line, and cutting to the line. No matter if you are using a chisel or a table saw or sand paper or a plane, you are just marking a line, and cutting to the line. So that's what I did. I marked the line.... And started cutting. At first I was using just a block plane but that was pretty slow so I switched to the scrub plane and things started really moving fast. I would get close with the scrub plane.... Then finished off with the block plane. Not only did this work very well, it was pretty fun too. It went surprisingly fast. The scrub plane even worked really well on the end grain. Sides, top and bottom are done, all that is left is the internals and the lid handle. I used some of my kids construction paper to mock up some lid handles and finally landed on this one: This is where the "Up-Side Down Right-Side Up" part of the name come in. At some point while figuring out the lid hand I had set the box down up-side down. I stared at this up-side down box for a really really long time. I was stuck, I had no idea which look I preferred. I like both looks so much. In the end I decided to keep this thing the original way I had designed it. I figured that since this was such a simple build it would be no problem for me to build an up-side down version in the future. Dowels were used to attache the lid. We are pretty much caught up to the present. All that's left is to put finish on. My finishing schedule is two coats of boiled linseed oil followed by Danish Oil and finished off with paste wax. I have used this finish before and it is by far my favorite. The only down side is that it takes a really long time. Even in the desert heat I have to wait multiple days between coats. After the finish is all cured and done I'll get some glamour photos and report back. Thanks for sticking with me.
  10. 8 points
    OMG!! Is that what this little piece of plywood is for?! The thing was just rattling around in the box my Jet came in. There was nothing in the instructions other than now I see a vague mention of a "dust block". No picture. No description. Nothing in the parts list. I figured it was too odd not to be something, but I thought maybe for checking belt tension. Imagine how my dust collection will improve now with this installed, and if I remember to turn the DC on.
  11. 8 points
    Sorry moderators. I couldn't resisit.
  12. 8 points
  13. 8 points
    I decided to make use of some of the crating material for use as a sturdier place to hang jigs, fixtures and blades since I had to cut it up for disposal anyway.
  14. 8 points
    So that part where I forgot to cut grooves into the legs for the back.. gave me an opportunity to buy a rabbiting bit. I'll still need to do some chisel work with this to get the plywood in. I sanded the main case up and put 4 coats of ARS on it. I went and picked up maple plywood, which I have rough cut to size. I also ordered the glass sides. Came to 9 5/8 wide by 57 1/2" tall. Started on the shelves. I had to resaw 10/4 or 12/4 walnut. Can't remember exact thickness. It broke my bandsaw blade so I had to buy a resaw king. I skip planed because they were pretty flat to start with. This is where I learned that even though I had put a new helical head in my 735, it did not have what it takes to plane 12" wide 3" thick walnut. This has got me looking at maybe picking up a 15" grizzly soon. Some looks at the boards with mineral spirits Bottom shelf was cut first. Mostly to length. I got half inch pieces of glass coming so I'll wait until I get those in to make my final cuts. I'm also waiting on getting them in to figure out how to put the shelves in because I ... just have no idea. I'll take recommendations. I did leave the bottom shelf protruding up from the rails. I like it like this. Today I glued the top
  15. 7 points
    I sure hope, the Houston Boy comes in with his big check book or two Houston Hats. Curly White Oak.
  16. 7 points
    Ultimately the depth of cut has several limiting factors, motor power being just one of them. You also have to take into consideration the material characteristics such as density, propensity to chip, propensity to burn, etc, bit diameter, bit condition (is it sharp?), rotation speed, how fast you're feeding it (to avoid burning), how well the part is secured, how well your guide system (router fence, straightedge, jig or template) is secured, quality of cut and more. An easy answer to your question is yes, the router has plenty of power to take a 1/2" x 3/8" cut in a single pass. And set up properly, the tool you selected will take a cut at least twice that deep all day long faster than you can move the router. A handheld router's power (torque) is directly correlated to its rotation speed. Faster rotation = more torque. Faster rotation is NOT always the best setting. The chip load directly affects the quality of cut. Chip load is the thickness of each chip being removed; too thin and you get burning and greatly reduced tool life, too thick and you get chatter, tearout and possibly bit breakage. So chip load is a function of rotation speed, feedrate and the number of flutes. A router set to 16,000 rpm using a 2 flute bit and cutting 3/8" deep may cut beautifully at a forward rate of say, 200 inches per minute, but will fry the material (and the bit) at 20 inches per minute. Or it may snap the bit at 500 inches per minute. There's a sweet spot. Anyone who's used a router more than once has seen burn marks show up when they slow down or stop to reposition, move the cord, slow down in a corner, etc. The bit is rubbing, not cutting, so heat builds immediately. The number one cause of poor quality router results is using too high of a rotation speed for the feed speed and number of flutes. That's a long way around getting to the point - we're using hand held routers. The bit you chose was designed for use in an industrial CNC router moving WAY faster than you can or should be moving a hand held router. To get the same results that an industrial CNC user would get using the same bit you have to slow down the rotation speed. That means you'll have less torque than the router is ultimately capable of. That's why you get a 3 1/4 Hp router. It has the reserve power to get the job done properly at the correct rotation speed. A 1 Hp router using the same bit would need to spin faster to develop the same torque.
  17. 7 points
    Your tie downs look good but, I like to go to the lowest point when I secure my loads Congrats on the new saw, 20" re-saw capacity that's impressive!
  18. 7 points
    I had time yesterday afternoon to put together a quick-attach fence for resawing for the new MM20. It's based on the Fine Woodworking article on a universal fence (hanging on the wall to the right of the DP with the drill on it) for the table saw that I use a lot, using toggle clamps for a friction attachment to the existing saw fence. The face is attached using ¼"/20 screws into threaded inserts on the backer. That way I can have a couple of different height resaw fences, a short (lower height) rip fence along the lines of the Laguna, Powermatic and others. I'm really growing attached to the new addition to the family! 9" widths
  19. 7 points
    Our client had a very large family, entertained guests often and had just built a substantial sized home for himself… so he wanted a custom made dining table that was 16 feet long by 48” wide. He wanted it made from oak and be well aged in appearance. I had built a number of large trestle tables before but nothing of this size. I had to calculate the table top’s weight to see how difficult it would be to manipulate in our shop. At 2” thick it was already approaching 900 lbs which would stop my son & I from even turning the table top over (safely). So… I designed it such that the outside edge boards and the bread board ends would be over 2” thick and the great majority of it’s center area would be only 1.25” thick. This would make the top alone weigh aprox. 600 lbs, which made it do-able, if not easy to handle. I found a company in Maine that specialized in creating very large table pedestals. I only wanted to use two (not three) pedestals in case his floor was not perfectly flat (and it looked better that way). Once I had the outside edge machined to 2.25” thick and the inside to 1.25”, we aligned them all and dry clamped to see what we had. The bread board ends are boards that cap each end of the long table top. They run 90 degrees to all the other boards, hide the end grain there and help keep the surface flat. They are attached by means of a tongue (left protruding from the long boards) and a groove cut into the bread board in which the tongue will insert….. and they are kept in place by dowel pins. The two holes at the end of each tongue are elongated so that all the long, center boards can expand and contract along their width (from changes in humidity) without being held ridged by the dowel pins. You’ll notice that I made the ‘tongue and groove’ hidden by stopping it short of both ends by an inch or so. We fastened the pedestals to the table’s bottom with a bolt that is half wood thread (place in the table top’s bottom) and half machine thread (for wings nuts and washers) to go through an enlarged hole in the pedestals support spreader. We found the best positions for the legs by placing the top on the pedestals (somewhere between a quarter and a third of the way in from each end) until the top was dead straight (no sag). Now we were ready for the finishing process. They had selected an aged look from samples that we made. The table top and legs were gouged, filed and torched …before they were stained and top coated. It was very hard to get a picture of the finished table in their home that showed the entire table AND what the final color looked like… so I have two shots here. Russell Hudson / Hudson Cabinetmaking, Inc.
  20. 7 points
    This one's a wrap. Very pleased how it turned out and the alterations I made to the Hank chair I think worked well. So let me take a few minutes reviewing the project and giving you my thoughts if you are thinking of purchasing it. The instruction videos were solid, not as detailed as Marc's videos, but still they were good. Jory has an easy way about him and it's amazing how he will go with the flow. He is not really strict about measurements, but he does develop systems that create consistency. He relies on dominos for his joinery and this makes the construction rather straight forward. This lends itself well to alterations to the plan. His template system is neat and really worth learning, I see incorporating this in future projects. I could easily seeing someone take this project and developing other pieces of furniture very easily. I'm already considering a love seat or couch. You could use the same sides or slight variations and just make a longer seat. Another aspect of this build that was very simple, but a new technique for me was the leather seat cushion. I was amazed at how easy this was and I will definitely use this on future chairs. I will say I thought the straight forward joinery with the domino system was not very challenging, and if you follow as it's presented, there really is minimal handtool utilization. Also, Jory uses a router for a lot of stuff, and it is not my favorite tool. I incorporated some handtools in this build, mainly rasp work for some shaping. So those are my thoughts, and now some pics of the final product; This looks like a perfect setting to have a glass of scotch and a nice cigar as two friends debate politics, religion, or sports. Thanks for looking and thanks for following along.
  21. 7 points
    I made a couple of floating shelves for the flag cases I recently completed. I was going to use some brakets that Kev had recommended but saw the article in the recent Fine Woodworking Magazine (issue 277) about making a floating shelf and thought I would try it. I spent $16 dollars on four "L" brackets and $6 dollars on rattle can paint. The wood was 1/4 birch ply and poplar from previous projects.
  22. 6 points
    I managed to wrestle the thing into a Bora PM-3500 mobile base. The mobility kit that came with the saw doesn't allow enough clearance for my uneven floors. Thankfully there's an overhead beam directly above the saw that I could use to hoist it up high enough to slide the Bora unit under it. Still, kinda nerve wracking. The Bora unit works great!
  23. 6 points
    Glad I saved the Sawstop extension and legs i had left over when I installed the SS router table extension on my PCS. I knew they'd come in handy. Clamps under the table, easy on, easy off.
  24. 6 points
    If they would do away with slot head screws, I would chunk all of those drivers. They’re like black and white tv’s.
  25. 6 points
    Follow up. I'm going to try rearranging the pipe to make it more efficient for the new bandsaw. Big advantage of using quick lock pipe. 1. Move the pink branch down to the other end of the 6" joint 2. Raise the yellow branch up to the bottom of the 45 3. Move the short 4" green joint to the other end of the straight section of the yellow branch in #2 4. Attach the flex hose to #3 going to the bandsaw - 4' resulting flex hose 5. Add a 4' x 4" joint to the 45 coming off the yellow branch going to the drum sander Apologies for the lousy annotation, but hey, I'm retired. I don't have to worry about that stuff anymore.
  26. 6 points
    Et voilà! Thé finished product. Last shop pic and then with Mama’s treatment in situ. I started this mid-July and it’s done today. Good thing I don’t do this for a living!
  27. 6 points
    Started finishing the Top and bottom shelf. Still haven't finalized how I'm attaching the other 2 shelves so I won't cut to absolute final size until I do. Siliconed the glass into the sides. I used these points to hold it in place while the silicone sets. I intend to remove them and put in some sort of walnut trim or something. Depends on how it looks. Cut the back. Unfortunately, in my haste a couple of weeks ago to get the plywood in the garage with impending rain - I cut it to 57 inches, which it is - on the edges. But the curve screws that up pretty well, so this is the result- It's VERY small, somewhere just a hair over 1/16th. So I cut a piece And finally found a use for my bandy clamps I bought 2 years ago.
  28. 6 points
    So to keep things clear I'm making 4 Living Room tables total. All are going to be the same height which is roughly 23" #1 is done and is roughly 20"x20" #2 In Progress 42" x 10" #3 Selected material 24"x30" it's going to go over the sub woofer in the corner. #4 This is the one where I'm going to try implement the concept i posted earlier. 8"x 30" I messed up a leg and put a mortise for a domino in the wrong spot. I didn't want to fix it so I scrapped the leg and made a new one. Then i proceeded to figure out the slats for the sides. I got widths figured out cut some slices at the bandsaw and then ran them through the drum sander to the proper thickness, 8mm. The center slat is too narrow to use my typical mortise with the domino so i have to create that mortise the old school way. I decided upon a drill bit and chisel. It turns out I don't need to turn in my woodworker card as my test mortise fir perfect the first time. So i chopped out all 4 mortises i needed. By the 4th mortise i was getting the muscle memory back and managed it pretty quick. Because i wasn't confidant that i could get a perfectly strait mortise i ran a shoulder around all 4 sides of the slat. There is probably only about 1/64" on the front and back but it's enough to do the job. I created the shoulders for the slats on the table saw and used a chisel to fine tune the fit. Then i needed to plow the mortises for the bottom shelf. It's getting difficult to find a good spot on my test block so i may have to find a new test block. I use one of these on every project to make sure that the reveal is exactly what i want. I feel something like this is mandatory when working with a domino at least for me. Even using it i still mess things up from time to time. I had 2 mistakes of mortise in the wrong spot on this project luckily only 1 required a redo. Final step was to get everything glued up. I did both sides in one go and then attached the sides with 2 rails and glued 2 boards together to make the top. The long rails were a bit too tall so i put an arch in them to try and make it feel less bulky and heavy. I like the effect. It might be hard to see with the clamps in the way. I'll post a picture once i get finish on.
  29. 6 points
    Got some Osmo on this last night, and now I'm done with this chair. Love the fact that I can get a finish like this in 1 coat and I can add another coat at anytime. With the finish on you can see the sculptured features better. In this first pic you can see the original scallop at the top of the backrest and you can see the bevel I made where the backrest and sides meet. I took the bevel almost halfway down the inside of the arm and to me this really softens that part of the chair. You just need to be aware of where you domino is when you do this bevel. In this pic you get a good feel for how that 42 degree angle in the backrest and sides creates an open and inviting chair. I also think the bevel at the top of the backrest gives the illusion there is a slight curve to the top. Just another pic where you can visualize the shaping. Like I said the finish makes it much clearer. And my favorite pic. this really shows off the chair nicely. It still has some of the angular features you see in the original but the curved arms really soften the look. I was on a mission this weekend to get this first chair finished while I had some spare time. Now the second chair will be easier. I think I will definitely use the contours and sculpting details from the first chair. I'll get final pics of both chairs when I'm done and do a critical recap of the chair and the design changes.
  30. 6 points
    Dave, here’s the coffee table.
  31. 6 points
    Took a break from the uke to work on this again. I could only delay the veneering part for so long... This is my first time using veneer and first time with hide glue. I don’t have a vacuum setup so I gave hammer veneering a go. I read on Shannon Rogers site and found that 11:6 ratio is good for hammer veneering so I mixed it up and went for it. First piece went on alright. I ended up with some pockets of glue under, either I used too much glue or my technique is not good. Subsequent pieces went better, but there is clearly a learning curve to this. Maybe I should have done a practice piece I veneered both sides of the plywood. It’s all oversized so next I’ll cut it down to final size.
  32. 6 points
    Coop, I agree, the softer look is appealing to me too. I got more done, and the going has been slower than I expected. This construction technique is somewhat new to me and some of the domino placements are challenging. Also since I've changed the shape, I've had to adapt some of the steps which has turned out ok but has resulted in me scratching my head as to how to get a few steps done. I don't mind this part of the build though because it is breaking new ground for me and opening me up to new solutions I can utilize later. So here's were I'm at; I spend the first hr in the shop with the router, did not enjoy it. I pattern routed the seat frame, the cushion boards, and routed the rabbit for the cushion in the seat frame; After routing I rounded the edges of the seat frame with a rasp, mainly because I was just done with the router. I also took an hour to clean up the shop after the routing. Next is fitting the seat frame to the chair. To do this you clamp the chair together with the back rest in place. Than mark were you want the seat, Jory has some estimates. I then clamped two 1" strips on that line and Jory uses a neat technique to make a template to get your cut lines for the seat frame. He takes 2 pieces of 1/4" ply, puts them on the line for the seat and in the correct position one the chair frame and where the plywood overlaps he secures them. I used tape but he used an air nailer. So here's the template in place; I then took that and laid it over the seat frame to mark my cut lines. I used a circular saw for this cut, I think I should get a track saw, would have been easier; After the cut I put the frame in place and found out my slenderizing and shaping of the back leg caused a slight problem; So I was able to reposition the seat frame a little more forward, but it will be a problem with the dominos. Jory puts 2 in the back leg and 1 in the front. I will put 1 in the back, because I'm concerned with the width. I will increase the size of the domino though from 8mm to 10mm. Here's the chair clamped up, sat in this carefully and it felt great; While clamped I took the 1" strips out and marked the underside of the seat frame for domino placement, then unclamped; Here's the domino setup for domino slot; Turned out fine, just took a steady hand, Jory uses a template for this as a guide, my design change made that more difficult so I freehanded it;; Next I needed to find out where that position sits with the seat frame. Put the seat frame in place and marked the center of the domino on the frame; This worked, as I eyeballed the mortise into the seat frame. Came out very much dead on, even though I didn't need to be dead on, just needed to be close. What I really needed to be was consistent. Next it was a dry run; Took a seat for a few minutes relieved I worked my way through those last few steps. Then I marked some areas I need to shape; Took things apart and grabbed the rasp; One interesting problem was my workbench was not quite wide enough to sit the chair on. So I made it bigger with my vise and a 1" strip; Next is dry run with the second chair, sand all the parts and glueup. Moving toward the end. Thanks for looking.
  33. 6 points
    You might conseder showing that article to you client. If your wife is the client I take no responsibility.
  34. 6 points
    Starting to pick up some speed on this project. Glued up the seat frames and cleaned up some templates. Here are the seat templates, you see the frame and the template for the 1/2" plywood that will turn into the cushion. There is about an 1/8th" gap all the way around the seat cushion template. In theory that space will be taken up by the leather covering. The cushion will simply fit in via friction; The seat frame glued up, culls were cut out in one area to achieve a better clamping direction of pressure. The excess on the inside of the frame will receive a rabbet up to the pattern line and the remaining lip will support the cushion. Here's a close up of the back joint in the seat frame. Two stacked 6mm dominos are the support for this joint. Both angles were cut at 42 degrees to match the same 42 degree angle the side and backrest were cut at. Pleased with the joint; The front joint makes up for the combined 42 degree cuts in the back. The side is cut at 6 degrees to match a square front rail, stacked 6mm dominos here also; Here's what's on tap next; Cut off excess on the outside of the seat frame via the band saw. Pattern route the outside of the seat. Rabbet the inside of the seat. Fit the seat frame to the sides of the chair and attach using 8mm dominos. Cut out and fit the plywood cushion base and upholster the seat. Glue up chair. Continue to shape, sand and personalize the look of the chair. Thanks for looking
  35. 6 points
    The molds with the Plumbers epoxy putty came out pretty good. The reason you see the plastic wrap in a mass around it on the old sash, was so I could take those gloves off, and knead it into good contact with my fingers, before it set up. More tuning on the molding plane today, since I now have a good pattern from the mold. Used a couple of round molding planes, and a sharp chisel. More grinding on the iron, sharpened it, and ran a test piece. A couple of small tweaks on the iron, and we'll be ready to run the profile. I thought I got lucky on this first go. We stopped here for the day, at lunch time. I can see where they liked this European Beech for molding planes. I've never worked any wood that would be better suited, or works as easily, and still seems plenty durable. We'll make multiple setups on the table saw to take some of the bulk away first, and this molding plane will just finish up the profiles. We have air conditioning in this old house that I use, but I left the table saw work for another day. Will be cutting grass until dark tonight, starting after the Sun goes down some. More another day on this.
  36. 5 points
    That is a bold man. It's glue that I did not notice before I finished it. You can only see it if your eyes are open though. My blind friend is none the wiser about it.
  37. 5 points
    I finally got a chance to take some glamour shots. What do you think.
  38. 5 points
    Chris, your responses here on the Forum this past week or so leave a lot to be desired. They really offer nothing to the conversation and are pretty rude to the person that started the thead. I had sent you a PM when I deleted you post in the CNC section but you never read it. So this time I am going to be more public and tell you that this forum has a no jerk policy and if you can follow that you time here will probably be short lived. You comment above does not help her at all so you do you say something like this? Especially to a new member, you don't make her feel welcome with a comment like this one.
  39. 5 points
    Jim, good work on the HF chisels. I was inspired to do this about 10 years ago when I recognised that the Blue Spruce chisels were made this way. I have had a BS set for about 15 years, for paring dovetails, and they were among a very few who produced chisels with minimal lands. The chisels I chose to grind were vintage Stanley #750s (purchased individually over some years, mostly without handles). Unlike the LN chisels they were modelled after, the Stanleys had rather chunky sides, and were useless for dovetailing. I also was not a fan of the stubby Stanley 750 handles, and wanted something longer. This is what the Stanley now look like. Incidentally, the 1/8" chisel started out as a 1/4", as did the 3/16" chisel - these are two sizes I use a lot with dovetails. I did write an article on a jig I made to do this: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Soyouwanttomakeadovetailchisel.html Later, I simply managed it freehand. The smaller chisel sizes are a little tricky Regards from Perth Derek
  40. 5 points
    I don't spend a lot of time on bigger more complicated projects without drawings, templates or a lot of beer.If its complicated and time consuming a little more time for templates, drawing will save time later....
  41. 5 points
    Oh no offense taken i went through probably 250 BF of cherry in the last year. I'd only object if you called me king of pallet wood or something. Though pallets do make awesome fires.
  42. 5 points
    I got the whole thing in my basement and set up. It was way more of a pain to get setup than i thought it was going to be. Starting off my old planer sat on the table i made a while back for my drum sander. I made it in a few parts with the foresight that I'd get a stationary planer eventually. I just had to trim some ply and remove some nails and the extra portion came off. I had a big pile of scraps here that i meant to make into domino stock so i got that out of the way to reduce some clutter. I have long strips that i need to finesse the fit a bit more on and then cut to lengths for use. Once i got it set up and the table modified I realized there was going to be a conflict with my existing table and drum sander. So i made a 6" tall platform for the planer to sit on. There is no way that this will be the final place for the planer. For now it works but i foresee issues with how tall it is and it's location. I'll probably at some point put it back on the floor and modify how and where the drum sander sits. I may even mount the drum sander above the planer with those fancy planer brackets that Marc and Andy designed (though i may make my own).
  43. 5 points
    In the book "The Joiner and the Cabinet Maker" (incredible book by the way) Christopher Schwarz explains how to make some dovetail chisels. He says you just need to get a cheap chisel and file the side bevel until the it comes to a point. Chris also says that you can do this with a belt grinder as long as you don't let the steel get too hot and loose it's temper. As someone who has drank the Christopher Schwarz cool-aid I gave it a try. I had some Harbor Freight chisels that were collecting dust and I took them to the belt grinder. If I screwed up or this didn't work then it is no great loss. The one on the left is the before pic, the two on the right are the ones I "made". The 1/4" did not even have a side bevel too it at all, it was pretty much a mortise chisel. Schwarz also said to cut the handle down to make the chisel shorter. That way you will not feel like you are chiseling with a broom handle. I did not need to do this because these chisels are already pretty short. They are not pretty and the small one was hard to sharpen. But they work like charm.
  44. 5 points
    I've been a pallbearer more times than I even remember, and I don't remember a single one of the caskets, because they didn't really matter. I would always remember this one, because it does matter.
  45. 5 points
    Quick, easy project to build a vertical lumber storage rack..
  46. 5 points
    Glued up the first chair yesterday. Chose epoxy for it's working time and the fact I was working alone and it was a tricky glue up. Considered hide glue but still thought that might be tough timing wise. The glue up went faster than I expected, the dominos slipped in real easy with epoxy. Wanted to shape this first chair to see how I could make it look. I can do the second char differently since they are not going to live together. Really wasn't sure how the shaping would turn out. Started with the top of the back rest. From the dry run you can see it's pointy in the back; I took the high spots on the backrest down to the chair side and then drew some guide lines as to where I wanted to reduce; I'm looking for a rounding and beveling shape toward the inside of the chair. The plan calls for an outside sharp bevel. that seemed backward to me. So here's where I'm headed with my inside reduction; You can see it slopes in toward the seat; I'm liking that and further refinement is ahead. I then went to the bottom of the back rest. Here there is some excess material. I'm going to try and reduce the excess and make a curved lower line on the back rest; And I really like this, but it's only visible from the back of the chair; Roughed out I took another pic, any thoughts? Thanks for looking.
  47. 5 points
    I put the screws in, and couldn't resist seeing it populated. I definitely still need to add a few magnets, and a clip for the router plane (it's a bit precariously balanced in the picture). Looks like I need more planes...
  48. 5 points
    Cliff, I know mistakes can be discouraging, but perserverance is what its all about. You are doing great!
  49. 5 points
    Coop, check out this box a guy made for me. The guy has some good tiger hard maple.
  50. 5 points
    Bmac, check out this white oak table top that I cut today.