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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/08/19 in Posts

  1. 11 points
    Short update, only spent a little time in shop and have a busy weekend, so here's where I'm at. Finished shaping, sculpting all leg to seat joints. Sanded to 180 but I still have a few scratches to work out. also need to put plugs in and work those areas. Front leg area the tougher than the back area. Cannot be shy or hesitant, there is a lot of material to remove in the front leg to seat joint area; You can see here I have a little less width in the leg at the joint than above or below joint, I'll need to work on that; Also started rounding the underside of the front part of seat; Still need to work this area to make it look thinner; Flow to back legs look good, minimal work left here; Here you can see the side "wings" or extensions coming up from the seat and joint, want to make them flow and be mirror images of each other whether its side to side or top to bottom; So now I can glue on the arms and when I get back to this I'll be working this area; Finishing up the front legs took me 2 more hrs so I'm sitting at 27 total hrs. Believe it or not it may seem like I'm moving but there is a lot of work ahead of me still. Thanks for looking.
  2. 6 points
    It finally arrived. Can't start the assembly or mounting quite yet since the "how-to" video won't be ready for a few days but heare it is..... www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Twon+turbo+vise&&view=detail&mid=43C3402A31E80818FFD343C3402A31E80818FFD3&&FORM=VRDGAR I have never seen anything quite so well packaged as this. I will peel back a few layers for you...... This is the plexiglass face plate - The gears will be visible when ti's all assembled. Also the 2 screws. Remove the plate and pull out a couple of styrofoam plugs..... Remove the plastic bags fo parts and the back of the vise is visible. Now to get some maple 8/4 maple for the jaw. This is the smallest of his 3 vises - 16" from screw to screw. I figure that the jaw will be 18" long. Plan to mount it as a front vise. Should look something like this when its done. I may take a few pics along the way but the assembly process will be on line. Will definetly review that ease or dificulties of the build and what I think of the vise. LInk: www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Twon+turbo+vise&&view=detail&mid=43C3402A31E80818FFD343C3402A31E80818FFD3&&FORM=VRDGAR Stand-by.....................
  3. 5 points
    When I built my router table this was one of my goals. I'm going to add handles to the tray of bits to make it removable. I found the little plastic inserts At woodline.com.
  4. 4 points
    Just one more reason not to bother reviewing the reviews.
  5. 4 points
  6. 3 points
    I enjoyed the work. I wish I could have convinced the client not to stain. I would have liked it more.
  7. 2 points
    Hi Jesse, and welcome. The general consensus here is that the current 'rustic' trend is just that, and that it never should have become a trend, and that it will hopefully go away soon. Personally, the rustic look has been poisoned by the innumerable wanna-be youtube 'woodworkers' who, in fact, know next to nothing about woodworking & turn out the worst quality of garbage in the name of getting more views. All that out of the way, I don't think there is anything wrong with using pallet wood or barn board to build shelves for the garage or storage room or garden shed. It gives material that would otherwise be tossed a second life, and it doesn't matter if it is ugly. The current live edge slab trend, which also seems to be waning. has almost ruined the genre. There is some beautiful live edge stuff out there, the work of George Nakashima being a premier example. But again, there is so many bad examples of it being churned out that 'live edge' is coming to be associated with 'yuck'. That's the end of my rant for now.
  8. 2 points
    Great job Bmac! Rounding the under side of the seat took me a long time on my stools. Getting them to match and then matching to the other two stools took me a long time. Now every morning when I walk by I realize nobody even sees them But if they ever look they are very nice
  9. 2 points
    Amen! I will not.
  10. 2 points
    I think by far the most egregious fault in this whole saga is Acme's censoring of the review. Powermatic's issues are due to incompetence or apathy on the part of employees and/or management, but Acme has consciously chosen to falsify their review system. To me that is the same as lying straight to the customer's face. I don't think I'd ever want to do business with them again.
  11. 2 points
    I tried a few other adhesives including ones marketed for plastic with no luck bonding the magnets and limited luck attaching a block of wood for the magnets to be screwed into. But mechanical attachement works. Trick was to replace the rubber pad on the lower jaw of the clamp with a bit of ply and screw through the jaw attaching cup magnets.
  12. 2 points
    Good luck! The OP isn’t around now, but there are many skilled and knowledgeable people here if you have further questions about this project or others. Stick around and post your results!
  13. 2 points
    I did this to my scroll saw base.
  14. 2 points
    If you want to see some serious bending, check out Engles Coach Shop
  15. 2 points
    Bmac, the Houston Boy’s may wear different underwear than the country boy’s.
  16. 2 points
    In fairness to Robert, his machine is the older version and has some history with him. Not sure where his was manufactured but, mine was in Taiwan. Because of his history with this particular saw, this seems like a pretty good deal for somebody.
  17. 1 point
    Finally home from a long work road trip! Had some catching up to do! A few projects to get done that have been piling up! Only the bathroom vanity was done for YouTube.. 1. Table Lazy Susan and a cutting board for 2 different clients.. 2. A thread storage cabinet for my wife's quilting room 3. Bathroom Vanity for a client. 4. And, a floating picture frame for a family member..
  18. 1 point
    In July, I posted a router-based method I used to remove the waste from hand cut hand-blind sockets (link). This involved orientating the boards vertically and routing into the end grain. This necessitated a rather clumsy piece of work-holding - which, as I explained at the time, was difficult to avoid as the end grain was not square to the sides, as is usual with drawer front. The bow fronted drawers created ends which were angled.With the usual square drawer fronts, both Bill and Roger on the forum preferred to place their boards flat on the bench and rest the router on the edge. Roger's photos ...However, this method leaves is too much waste remaining at the sides of the socket - as this is angled and the router bit is vertical - which means that there is more work needed to clear ...Bill's objection - that holding the work piece vertically looked too clumsy for easy work - continued to ring in my head. The horizontal method certainly had the advantage of being more stable. So, now that my then-current project, the Harlequin Table, is complete, between pieces I take some time to solve these problems. Which I have, and hopefully in a way that others will find helpful.Just as an aside, my preference is hand tool work, and generally if the wood is willing this is my go-to. The method here is not to replace all hand work, but to make the process easier in particular circumstances. Some of the timbers I work, especially for cases and drawer fronts, are extremely hard, and it is not viable to chop them out, particularly when there are several to do. It is not simply that this is time consuming - after all, this is just my hobby - but that it is hard on the chisels. I use machines to compliment hand tools. There is a time and place for everything.Let's take it from the beginning:Step 1: saw the pins ...Step 2: deepen the kerfs with (in my case) a kerfing chisel (see my website for more info) ...Now we come to the new jig. I must tell you that this did my head in for a long time. As with everything, there is a simple solution, and in the end it could not have been simpler!The need is (1) quick and easy set up, (2) accurate routing leaving minimal waste, and (3) visibility and dust control (bloody machines!).The jigThis turned out to be nothing more than a block of wood. This one is 16"/440mm long x 4"/100mm high and 2"/50mm wide.I used MicroJig clamps, which slide along a sliding dovetail. This is not necessary; one can just use a couple of F-clamps. However the MicroJig clamps not only make work holding less finicky, but they extend the length of the board one can hold with this particular jig to 500mm. That is easily enough for most case widths.To use, place face down on a flat surface and clamp the drawer front close to centre ...Up end the combination, and place the end of the drawer front into your vise. This could be a face vise or, as here, a Moxon vise. Note that the image is taken from the rear of the vise ...This is what you will see when standing in front of the jig/vise ...Let's talk about the router.This is a Makita RT0700C trim router. Fantastic little router: 1 hp, variable speed, soft start. Together with a Mirka 27mm antistatic dust hose, the dust collection is amazing! The photo shown is after use, and there is no dust to be found (I very much doubt that a small plunge router could remain this clean). That also means that visibility is good, even though it does not have a built-in light. There are other excellent trim routers around for much the same price. This is the one I use.The baseThe base is the other half of the jig. This made from 6mm perspex. This is not the strongest, but does the job. I plan to build another out of polycarbonite (Lexan), which is much tougher.There is just the single handle as the left hand will grip the dust outlet.Below is the rear of the base. Note the adjustable fence/depth stop ...This is the underside ...Plans for anyone looking to make their own ...Setting upStep 1: set the depth of cut - I scribed marks on the fence for two drawer side thickness I use. Mostly I use 6mm (or 1/4"). The other is 10mm, which is used here. I shall make another, deeper fence, so that I can add a few other thicknesses, such as 19mm for case sides.Step 2: set the cut to the boundary line - this is done as close as possible. In the end I want to leave about 1mm to clear with a chisel (this is such an important line that I am not willing to take a risk here). If you move the bit side-to-side, the scratch pattern will show where it is cutting ...The resultThe router bit is 5/32" carbide. It is very controllable, and this makes it possible to freehand close to the side kerfs. The fence/depth stop prevents over-cutting the boundary line. In 15 seconds, this is the result ...Turn the board around to chisel out the waste ..Order of waste removalFirst lever away the sides. The waste here is paper thin and breaks away ...Secondly, place a wide chisel in the scribed boundary line, and chop straight down ...Finally, use a fishtail chisel into the corners to remove this ...A note: removing the waste this cleanly and easily was facilitated by using the kerfing chisel to ensure that there was a release cut at the sides of the socket.Regards from PerthDerek
  19. 1 point
    Strangely enough I only read the negative reviews to see if there is a pattern of a problem that would concern me. Now at least I know if its all good something nefarious is probably going on. I naively never even considered a vendor would alter/remove online reviews.
  20. 1 point
    Shannon's latest Lumber Industry Update podcast talks all about this. Check it out.
  21. 1 point
    I've got fingers crossed for you young'un.
  22. 1 point
    And the journey continues, when is the rep coming to set it up Kev?
  23. 1 point
    The new table saw has arrived.. I only unpacked it this far to check for any shipping damage.. PM's authorized rep can do the rest..
  24. 1 point
    Sold them locally on CL. Thanks!
  25. 1 point
    The pulleys are a special type for the Reeves drive.
  26. 1 point
    Probably the only thing left to do is to get a label maker and put marks on the board to identify some of the bits by for example angle and width as in dovetail, and a few others by their features as a number do not have this info stamped on the shaft.
  27. 1 point
    White Oak outside in Florida is bad. I made a door that mildew would get under the finish. I removed the finish and treated the wood as prescribed. Failed. Did it again. Failed. The cell structure of the wood which is different from other oaks is the problem. And Florida. It took 6 months to see it and 2 years it got so bad you had to do something. I remade the door using sapele. I call it African mahogany. No failure after 3 years.
  28. 1 point
    For the power strip, search amazon (or whatever you prefer) for recessed power strip. There are a lot of styles and options. The vertical post is two pieces of wood glued together. Before gluing them together, a channel was cut down the center to give space for the power cord, then a hole is cut through the face of one of the boards to insert the power strip into. You could also use 4 thinner boards to make a hollow post, but then you either have to make long mitered corners or have the endgrain showing on some of the sides.
  29. 1 point
    1 3/8 x 1 3/8 for the half inch 1 3/8 x 1 for the quarter inch
  30. 1 point
    Niiice! Mind sharing what center to center distance you used?
  31. 1 point
    Believe it or not, they just spread; sometimes through a washer or an escutcheon. I believe Garrett Hack does this for the small drawers inside his small wall-mounted cabinet… Let me see if I can find a link. Subscription required for the video but, here's a snip.
  32. 1 point
    Well it has a lot to do with practice. First time I sculpted something it didn't go as nearly fast! Now do we need to talk about your underwear choices?
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    Jon Peters just did a hall table similar to this. I haven't watched it yet, but I'm sure the joinery is similar.
  35. 1 point
    Good questions, I didn't really cover this when I went over that. The jig I use is limited, will sand at max 3" wide laminates. But it works well enough to not have to go out and get a drum sander. First thing is that the plan calls for 3/16" thick laminates, 6 per rocker. In the past I've used 1/4" with no problem on other rockers. These laminates after sanding measured in slightly below 1/4" and I used 5 laminates per rocker instead of 6, rockers measured out 1 1/8" thick once out of the glueup jig, about what you get with 6 laminates at 3/16". I don't think there is more of a problem going thinner, if anything there will be less chance of breaking if thinner. Breaking would be more a problem the thicker the laminates. The curve on these rockers is not extreme. In other projects where I've done bent lamination where the curve was more extreme I went thinner than this, less than or at 3/16". One thing that I pay a lot of attention to with the laminates is straight grain. Irregular grain or knots are more vulnerable to breaking. I use exclusively air dried lumber, except with this build. This build is KD Maple I got from Spanky. This is one reason I tried to get the laminates below 1/4" because my belief is KD is less forgiving when bending. This lumber worked out great for this, bent very easily and no issues. I don't have as much curly figure in these rockers, picked lumber with less curly figure thinking it would bend better, but that was based on nothing more than an uneducated guess.
  36. 1 point
    Still have plenty of work left. I need to make the deadman, create the gap stop, ease the edges, figure out a temporary bottom shelf, and apply some sort of finish. The gap between the slabs is larger than Marc's and my plan is to make the gapstop large enough in a way that tools can be stored there but that they will sit below the bench surface.
  37. 1 point
    FWW has some really good articles & plans on workbenches, many of them not Roubo (horrors! I can already feel the flames).
  38. 1 point
    The cedar will last a long time but not forever. Use ipe. It will go longer than cedar. But if you are real old the cedar may be forever.
  39. 1 point
    I like your caster idea. Here's a couple of thoughts for your consideration. If you have the space, position the lathe so you can work from the backside (poor man's reverse), or at least get access to the back for cleaning, so you don't have to move it as often. I would make my drawers so that they are easily removed (just pull out). No matter how well they close they will gather up dust and chips, so might as well make it easy to empty and clean.
  40. 1 point
    Is the motor reversible? (I had another cup of coffee).
  41. 1 point
    I don't have any specific experience with Delta lathes, so no idea if the price is good. But a couple of comments; most you probably know. It's a Reeves drive which is not necessarily bad (Powermatic uses it on its drill press), but you need to check it out. What is the speed range? I didn't see a banjo or tool rest in the pictures, but you want to make sure they're included. What size post on the tool rest? You can get various sizes, but one inch is kinda standard. MT sizes? MT2 is kinda standard. This model has a rotating headstock. This is a valuable feature, but also introduces some possible errors. Check that the headstock is secure when locked and that it is perfectly aligned with the tailstock. Then rotate the headstock out, check the security, return to neutral and re-check alignment with head stock. Check all the other clamp and lock mechanisms, etc. Bed flat and straight? That's what I can think of with one cup of coffee.
  42. 1 point
    I have a Grizzly one that collects dust because I tend to use the shop made one more often.
  43. 1 point
    I’d say it’s at least a few grand...
  44. 1 point
    How many times have I heard that? Kev, you have as much space in front of your Kapex as I have in my shop.
  45. 1 point
    That's an interesting question. I think when sculpting I don't look at the joint or the grain, I just try to see the curve or silhouette. Look at the silhouette and feel it with your hand, that helps a lot.
  46. 1 point
    I picked up a couple of sheets of plywood yesterday to get started on this, a 1/2 and 3/4 of Baltic birch. As usual, I wrestled the incredibly awkward sheets and got them cut down. I sized the lower shelf and rough cut some of the other pieces, then decided to sand and prefinish them. I'm using Enduro var, since that's what I've got around. I think I've basically got it figured out. There's room for 4 drawers, or 3 if I make one deeper. I'm going with the workbench style casters, and it should be possible to mount them underneath so they won't stick out. I may have also ordered a pen mandrel today, and I'm planning to pick up a couple of kits this week. I need something to look forward to making after I get this done.
  47. 1 point
    You are right to be concerned about the weight factor when it comes to books though. A lot of folks don't realize how heavy a 3 foot shelf lined with books actually is. Even 3 feet of paperbacks can weigh over 35 pounds; hardcovers more, of course. Box or finger joinery is quite strong. You are probably not using plywood but, this wall hanging tool box has served me well in a couple of locations. Doors still swing well and close/align correctly despite being loaded with tools.
  48. 1 point
    Here's my final review on the PM2000B - This video isn't public yet but, thought I'd give you guys the first look. https://youtu.be/qARex9vM_Lo
  49. 1 point
    Be careful what you 'almost' wish for. I certainly did not have long to wait.
  50. 0 points
    My wife’s really bad about digging up stuff from the past . Must be a lady thing! No offense meant ma’am!