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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/23/19 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Meh.... everyone should just invest their time / money into the tools / technology they want to use and enjoy the fruits of their labors.
  2. 3 points
    SCM S500P (MM20) Bandsaw Review On a warm midsummer day, standing in my shop and sipping a glass of chardonnay, my wife asked me what piece of equipment I wanted next. I did not hesitate nor falter; I did not waiver. “A heavy bandsaw for resawing.” Her response drifted down on the wings of angels, softly, melodically, beautifully. “I don’t know what that is, but you have a birthday coming up, why don’t you get it?” My dream machine happened to be on AWFS show special pricing, so I did. I felt that I had to do due diligence even though I knew my mind was set on the MM16 Minimax bandsaw from SCM. The through-the-years closest-thing-to-a-consensus was that it was THE bandsaw to have for resawing. SCM bandsaws, with the exception of the S45N, are made by Centauro in Italy. I’ve sold lot’s of them and my customers were, to a person, thrilled with them. I also looked hard at the Laguna LT18, Laguna 18BX (great bang for the buck!) and the Felder FB510 and FB610. All great saws, but I’m at the point where everything I buy, I buy for the last time and don’t look back. Disclaimer* - I sold SCMI (SCM), Laguna and Felder equipment early on in my career. Having settled on the MM16 I dug a little deeper online and decided that the 20” model was worth the difference due to the larger wheel diameter = longer blade life on wide resaw blades. Plus, 4” more resaw capacity should I ever need it. I called Sam Blasco of SCM/Minimax to get a quote. Sam is a terrific guy and a very straight shooter. I also checked online and ultimately ordered from Elite Metal Tools. Same price, but freight paid. SCM quotes FOB destination with “white glove” service, meaning that if there’s any damage in transit, SCM assumes full responsibility - at a $750 up-charge. For the difference I was willing to take the risk and the machine arrived in perfect condition, having been drop-shipped directly from SCM in GA in their “ark of the covenant” crating. Arrival Wow, this thing is heavy. By my best calculated guess, the crate had some 1200 - 1500 nails in it. Not exaggerating. The machine was blocked up solidly and wrapped to protect anything from shifting. 10 out of 10 on packaging. It took 3 of us two hours to unload it from the trailer, move it through the garage and into the shop. Unpacking It took an hour to remove the crate and stand it up. No problems. FWIW, it took another 2 hours to break the crate down for reuse and disposal. Assembly Nothing much to assemble. We hoisted it up off the pallet using the beams in my shop and a come-along. I installed the casters/mobility kit and leveling bolts, scooted it off the pallet, cleaned off the packing oil from the table and waited for my blades to arrive. I spent my time waiting for the blades to arrive tweaking little things that many would say shouldn’t have to be done, but that from experience I know still do need to be done. More on that below. Once UPS brought the blades I installed the 1” Lenox carbide tipped resaw blade and used it to adjust the 90 degree stop, set the blade guides, etc. I was surprised, albeit pleasantly surprised to see that the saw has Euro blade guides. Almost all of the info I had read in forums said SCM had switched to Carter guides. In fact, I almost ordered the bandsaw about a year ago and was told that they only shipped with Carter guides, so I held off to look into other saws. Not that Carter guides are poor guides, they’re not, but I prefer Euro style guides. I contacted Sam again. He said they switched back several years ago from Carter to Euro. Ready to Run I’ll break this review down into two main parts. Part 1 is the greatness of the machine and what makes me very glad that I bought it. Part 2 are those little annoyances that I’ve found in most (but not all) equipment I’ve owned that I will soon forget all about. Part 1 The saw is a beast. It’s almost scary in its capacity. It has just under 20” of resaw capacity and carries up to a 1 ¼” blade with a 4.8 Hp motor. With it running and the guides all the way up I just find myself thinking, “Don’t trip. Don’t trip.” The guide post elevation system is the best I’ve come across short of a motorized system. If I set the guides properly all the way at the top I can lower them down the full 20” and they don’t drift front to back or side to side at all once the post is locked. SCM uses a chain and sprocket mechanism that’s independent of the saw body. +1 The wheels are very well balanced and heavy, ½” thick cast iron. They power the blade through anything. Power - Holy crap. The brake is very responsive, all things considered. There’s an interconnect to the starter switch, so when pressed it cuts power to the saw. I don’t know what these wheels weigh, but they’re massive. Stops in 1-2 seconds. The blade guide telescoping cover is great. As mentioned above, the Euro guides are simple to set without tools. I’ve used lots of different guides over the years, but the side bearing Euro guides I’ve always found to be my preference. If it had come with Laguna style ceramic I’d probably be just as happy, though I’ve found those to be a little trickier to set. It feeds at 5000 feet per minute. That’s fast. It would be no problem to put a power feed on this machine. The cut quality with a high quality carbide tipped blade is superb. I would give it one pass through a sander before glueing a veneer down. There is no discernible drift with the 1” blade. SCM touts the industry-only triple-box-beam spine on this saw as being capable of very high blade tension, meaning it cuts straight. For what this saw is designed to do, it does a great job. One thing to keep in mind is that the minimum blade width (as shipped) is ¼”. Anything smaller requires retrofitting guide blocks in place of the Euro guides. Part 2 It seems there are almost always some little annoyances that you notice up front that, over time fade from memory. Here are mine. Mobility kit sucks on anything other than a flat, flat floor. The casters are too small in diameter for this size and weight of a machine. The J-bar is too light for this size machine. It won't fit through a door and weighs over 200 lbs. more than my Sawstop PCS. The casters on it are too close together and the whole thing feels like it will tip over if you turn it more than a few degrees. I bought a Bora PM-3500 mobile base since… The doors have to be open 180 degrees to get anything larger than a ¾” blade on. If you have the saw near a wall that’s a problem. They could easily move the hinges to the left an inch and make the doors an inch wider so that opening at 90 degrees would allow access. Solved by the Bora mobile base. Move the saw out from the wall to change blades. Deafening screech on startup, meaning the motor drive belt/pulley was slipping. I called SCM and was told to give it time to break in. New belt, etc. I did and it didn’t stop. I adjusted the belt tension and problem solved. Table edges were sharp. Took a file to them. Solved. Fence was out of perpendicularity to the table +/- 1/64” over 4”. Filed down the landing on the bottom of the fence. Solved. I’ve read other reviews that find fault with the dust collection. I’m pleasantly surprised that it is as efficient as it is. One complaint I’ve seen more than once is that dust floats down from above like snow. There are two ~2” diameter holes on top of the saw connected by a weldment for lifting the saw. Cover them up. Solved. If you’re in the market for a premium bandsaw that will resaw whatever you throw at it, this will. I’m very happy with this saw. * For those familiar with my background, you can skip this. For those who aren’t, I feel pretty qualified to submit this review, having spent my career in the woodworking machinery business, from supplying upscale hobby shops to multi-million dollar production equipment. I’ve also been an off and on (as life permitted) avid woodworking hobbyist for over 50 years.
  3. 3 points
    Certainly! Its an outlet in auburn washington. I found them because they sell a lot of their dent and ding they recive on craigslist. Mine has a little scuff on the main cast iron where a a throw plate had rubbed during shipping. Good news for me. Tonight i went about setting everything up and getting everything square and parallel. The only thing that took time was that the blade was not parallel to the miter slots. Took about an hour and a rubber mallet, but have it as straight as i think is humanly possible. Just a little wiggle back and forth from my dial indicator. But everything else was so easy to get square and true. Of course i had to do the nickel test which it passed with flying colors.
  4. 2 points
    My wife requested a side table for the family room. This will be situated between two arm chairs, and replace the small table (which is too high and dominating) ... Not just a side table, but it also needed to house her needlework thingies. In other words, shallow drawers for cotton reels and sewing kit. I played around with several ideas, and eventually came up with a design that borrows a little from a piece I recently made. Lynndy liked the softness of the rounded dovetails and overall dimension of this coffee table I built some months back for a nephew ... The plan (looking down) would be to create a curved front and back, with round, splayed legs to the outside (an alternative is a straight, tapered round leg) ... In contrast to the Jarrah in that piece, the carcase will be built in Hard Maple, dovetailed and mitred at each corner. It will feature 8 drawers. All drawer fronts will curve as well. The reason for "Harlequin" in the title is that the drawers will be a mix of woods, as depicted in the elevation of the drawer section ... A harlequin design is often thought of as a diamond pattern, but does also include a rectangular checkerboard. Anyway, it's just a name, and I like giving my pieces a name At this stage I have chosen for the drawer fronts Black Walnut and Blue Gum. I may also add in Hard Maple. Always interested in your thoughts here. The Blue Gum is lighter than the Black Walnut and is a good foil against the Hard Maple … The legs will taper and curve from the carcase, attached with a loose mortice and tenon ... The sides and top were arranged so that the grain flowed continuously. The carcase is 20mm thick, 800mm long and 350 at the wide, centre point .. The initial dovetail plan was to keep the boards parallel and saw the curves later. It became apparent when joining the first set that this would not work ... .. there would be too much at the sides to mitre, and so I decided to shape the top and bottom panels at this stage rather than later. This was the first opportunity to use the modification I made to my Moxon vise (see article: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/NewMoxonMods.html). It now enables the pin- and tail boards to be clamped together to aid in marking out (see earlier photo). In marking out for mitred corners, the side tails are not sawn out from the front ... ... the board is reversed, and the mitres are marked ... ... and sawn ... The reason I had wanted to retain square carcase sides was that it would make it easier to square the chisel guide for the mitres. I got around this by squaring them to the front of the carcase ... The pin board is seen here ... One of the difficulties in fitting this many tails and pins is that any slight errors are magnified. The fit below illustrates that the left side is too tight ... To deal with this, the tails were given a pencil scribbling ... Fitting the board together left this behind ... This process needed to be done once more, before the fit was satisfactory ... The four sides were dry fitted together, and the front and rear upper and lower panels planed to shape (this was close but not enough) … All is coplanar … Where we are up to at the end of today … One set of mitred corners … … and the other … Next up is building the internal dividers for the drawers. Regards from Perth Derek
  5. 2 points
    Thanks John. I came in second. Regards from Perth Derek
  6. 2 points
    Thanks Tom, Mark, and John. I will contact Richmond Woodturners. Today I used @wtnhighlander method of moist heat to loosen both cross members under one of the side chairs. Basically, used old rag towels, moistened, and heated in the microwave in a pyrex glass bowl. I wrapped a hot rag around each of the tenon/joint areas. Took 15-20 minutes for each cross member, but eventually the glue loosened up enough for me to turn the x-member. Front legs came apart enough to remove Sheltie's chew toy. If anyone can date the chairs by logo or pdtn/part/model # 11651910, pic of logo on chair bottom also below.
  7. 1 point
    Many of my projects involve bow fronts, which result in compound angle dovetails ... I do enjoy building furniture with dovetailing challenges. Between furniture pieces, I find time to build a new tool. This time it is the Moxon dovetail vise I have been promising myself for a while. My first and only one was built in early 2011, after Chris Schwarz helped put it on the map. I immediately modified this design, and have been making modifications since. (Link: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/MoxonDovetailVise.html). This new Moxon incorporates the best ideas. Ironically, this design is not geared for compound angles. I decided to heed my own advice and keep it as simple as possible, and cater for the 90% of the dovetailing that is likely to be done. The width of the vise is narrower than my previous one, but capable of 450mm (17 3/4")between the screws. Most cases I built are between 350 - 450mm deep. My previous Moxon could do 560mm (22") between the screws. This is unnecessary, and just makes for a very large fixture. Where the old Moxon used wooden screws, which I turned, this uses steel Acme screws and iron wheels ala BenchCrafted ... except that these came via Tom Bussey (thanks Tom), which amounted to a large savings. The wheels are 5" in diameter on a 3/4" screw. The front chop is 5 1/2" high, and the Moxon is built in Jarrah ... what else do you expect! I went a little OTT in this build, but it was fun, and I admit I did become a little carried away Brass inlay ... The chop runs on bronze bearings ... Lining the inside of the vise is rubberised cork. This makes a great non-slip (not my idea - this comes from BenchCrafted, who call it "crubber". Simply search eBay for "cork rubber"). This vise is a good height for sawing ... There are a few innovations. The rear of the vise ... This is a spacer, and it can be locked into the up position ... The spacer has two functions. The first is setting the pin board (10mm) above the chop to prevent scoring the chop when transferring tails to pins with a knife (this is more of a danger with through dovetails). Also, by lifting the work, there will be light behind the pin board, and this makes it easier to align the edges. The crubber makes a great non-slip. The spacer may be dropped out of the way, once the height is set ... The second use of the spacer is that it has a sliding dovetail at the top, and this allows for the use of MicroJig clamps. This would be especially useful for holding wide boards, or tail board which have developed a slight bow ... I have used this on other fixtures, such as a morticing jig. For aligning the tail- and pin boards, I prefer a simple wide square I made from wood ... The spacer needs to be dropped out of the way for this ... Once transfer is made, reverse the board and saw the pins. This is where you will recognise that the cove is not simply decoration, but allows the saw to angle and get closer to the work piece. The lower the work piece in the vise, the less vibration when sawing ... And thats it ... the last moxon dovetail vise ... Regards from Perth Derek
  8. 1 point
    If I had the money, I would have a Saw Stop in my shop! But I don't so I have a Grizzly 5hp that has served me well!
  9. 1 point
    That looks like the one that is part of the guard. Does it have the riving knife that doesn't extend past the top of the blade? It's an important part to have.
  10. 1 point
    Ripples are a common problem when working with epoxy. You can sand it, but you should be in a well-ventilated area and/or wear a mask when you do it. I use a lot of liquidglassepoxyresin.com and I've discovered that if I apply a very thin seal coat on bare wood it helps me to avoid ripples so that I do not have to work so hard at sanding/repairing. I brush on the first coat with a foam brush, let it cure for several hours to get firm, and then I pour the self-leveling flood coat.
  11. 1 point
    Riving knife is black and prominent.
  12. 1 point
    Hard to pass up on a quality saw at that price point, congrats!
  13. 1 point
    Sooo i may have done something.... I was about to go and just pickup a rigid from home depot, when i called the outlet one more time. They have a PM1000 ready to go if i want it. My wife, two kids jump in the car, rent a trailer and drove 3 hours to go get it. So happy to finally have a table saw. Cost of saw, 1350$ not to shabby. Thank you everyone for the comments and direction. The saw stop was just to far out of the budget. Maybe one day.
  14. 1 point
    I was telling Alison at lunch today about the Felder PCS technology. She was enthralled. This evening I was showing her something I was working on in my shop and she commented that, yea, yea she knows I want a Felder saw now. I mentioned that the one saw that technology was available on is about $35,000. She asked me how many fingers I really need. Love.
  15. 1 point
    So @Bmac Sanding went easier than i expected. I have some 3M sand paper the no slip backer kind labeled sand blaster. It's awesome stuff. The backing is sticky when it gets hot. So my hand sanding is usually done with a 1/4 sheet that is folded in half which i then hit with my heat gun and and then press the adhesive together. This makes it a bit more rigid and easier to use as well as makes it 2 sided. Conviently i have an object that needs 2 opposite sides sanded. I just hold it together with one hand and drag the sand paper back and forth inside and it took me 10 min to sand all of the inside like this. I might go and get some 80 grit to see if that makes it any faster.
  16. 1 point
    Quite a bit different when i have to figure out how to do it in my shop, vs downloading a design off of a website that is making money off of intellectual property theft. I'd say you have an argument but you don't because it's been well established, with the illegal downloading of movies and music, that If someone hosts it and makes money off it through ads, they are still guilty. Open source and copyleft are great if you want to work your entire life and never get a paycheck (I'm exaggerating here). I don't have a problem with that at all and support the open source community as I'm a heavy Linux user. My issue is when you TAKE my design and post it on a platform that makes money giving it away to people. Especially when that VIOLATES my patent/copyright. It's clear that you don't care if people steal your intellectual property but a lot of people do care. Do i like the patent system, no not entirely but i live with it because it's the LAW. Wood waste would be huge and potential for part failure would be high. 3D printing is ugly, no way around that. You weren't woodworking in an efficient manner then. My Waste per board is very low. Board selection and part layout is critical. I cut the part out before i surface it and have little waste as "The fastest way to joint and flatten a board is with a saw". I use a band saw to cut parts where my kerf is 1/32" I don't recall ever seeing a router bit that small that can handle cnc machining. If i have to do all the perp work to get the board on the CNC i might as well just finish it with regular tools faster.
  17. 1 point
    I bought it off Thingverse. But as stated you have a perfect retreat in saying a better 3D printer makes better things. I'm sure it does. As I stated, I purchased the knockoff for a laugh. And "works perfectly" is surely subjective as you claim to lack the ability to purchase the actual tool. Couple things here to address. I absolutely do have an issue with the theft of IP. I don't care if the thing is made from plastic or gold. You can't get one in Europe... I know for a fact that you can. If you haven't put the effort in then you have another loophole for your theft. Are any of us? Really... Taking the tone that you have in this thread shows that you are not willing to have your mind changed on any of this. I was referring to the radius jig. And for the record, these have been around long before Woodpecker started making them of shiny red aluminum.
  18. 1 point
    I'll confess that I didn't read 100% of the posts above but probably enough to get the flow. I built a CNC router about 3 years ago and may have posted the build here (I don't recall, sorry). The main thing I cut with it is Longworth chucks that we sell on Etsy (we've cut almost 200 of them in the last 18 months). But the CNC is just another tool in the shop to me; I turn it on, cut something, turn it off and move on to the next step. What's nice about it is the repeatability and accuracy. If I can cut something on the bandsaw faster than using Fusion 360 for CAD/CAM and then cutting a piece on the CNC then the bandsaw gets used. But if that same part is one that I'll need a dozen more of over the next month then the CNC gets the job - it just depends but in the end it's just another tool in the shop. We don't (yet) have a 3D printer but I have looked at several. A good friend has two 3D printers so I don't need one right now because he'll print anything I need. The acoustic guitar, and related forms/fixtures/jigs I built last year, could have been helped by the CNC but I only used it for a small portion of cutting the bridge. The rest was completely by hand and I do a lot of hand work on a fair number of jobs/projects every week. And actually, the reason I built the CNC is to cut forms, fixtures, jigs, and templates for building acoustic guitars but I have yet to do any of that with the CNC. When I started woodworking about 45 years ago I used a handsaw. When I got a circular saw the handsaw gathered dust unless the circular saw couldn't do the job. When I got a table saw the circular saw got put away. But it is still used to break down Baltic Birch sheets for the Longworth chucks because it's the best tool for that task in our shop (no room to handle a 5x5 sheet on the table saw). Cuts that I would have done on the bandsaw a few years ago might today go to the CNC. They're all just tools and I use what makes sense for the job because I have them and they each handle the job for which they were designed. My $0.02 David
  19. 1 point
    I made some 3/8 shelves today. 3/8 shelves: Top 5/8 and middle 3/8 for comparison.
  20. 1 point
    That's brilliant! I'm surprised the height worked out just right.
  21. 1 point
    I got the saw till made and installed today. I wanted to minimize how much I had to lift the saw to get it out, since the cabinet's up pretty high. I found that a large dowel in the handle worked, since the two saws that fit here are open handled. I used a rare species of ash, the reclaimed snow shovel handle variety that has dark grain lines. That's what was left over after I scraped off the varnish. The left side of the dowel is threaded onto a piece of all thread that is installed in the cabinet side. I used the thread taps and 1/4-20 all thread. The right side is a support that I wasted about 2 hours carving. Totally unnecessary, but it was fun. The top block is sized to allow the saws to sit with the guards on the blades. I prefer to store them that way. With this in, I realized that I could slip the tenon saw in behind the plane till. Fits perfectly, and I still have room for some miscellaneous stuff. I was looking, and my list of tools without a home is getting much shorter. I need to organize my squares and rulers, and put in the rest of my saws. At that point I should only have a few things left. Although I've almost fallen in the trap of going and buying tools I've been thinking about, so I can fit them in now... A nice set of screwdrivers, some gouges, maybe a shiny new square or two...
  22. 1 point
    There - I've protected myself against future clumsiness. That was actually really simple to do, once I thought about it, and it still works just as well.
  23. 1 point
    I snuck in a few minutes to knock out a marking gauge rack today. It made sense to me to also put my marking knife, and then I added my most used awl. I like it for the most part, but I'm debating how I feel about the marking knife blade being out like that. When I went to grab the gauge beside it, my instinct was to grab from underneath near the blade. If it's possible to stab myself on this thing I'll find a way. That's why you'll see most of my tools have blade covers.
  24. 1 point
    I have my hinges mostly fitted to the cabinet. I think the end result looks pretty good. I went with the continuous hinges, but they were pretty industrial looking when they arrived. They had a very inconsistent surface finish, and were covered in sticky grease. I cleaned them off using denatured alcohol and then used a wire wheel on the bench grinder to even out the finish. I followed up by putting a thin layer of paste wax, and they now have a nice satin finish. I had to mortise the hinges into each side a bit over 1/16 to get the gap down to something reasonable. I'm pretty happy with the results. I clamped the cabinet down to the bench and must have stood there playing with the doors for a solid 5 minutes. One thing I discovered is that my doors are square, but my cabinet will rack a bit with the back off. I'm going to need to install it later today with a square in place, so I can make sure it all lines up. Once I have that figured out I think I'm on to finish sanding and breaking edges, then applying a couple of coats of tried and true on it. I want to match my bench as closely as possible.
  25. 1 point
    Beautiful work and good use of the contrasting butternut and walnut. Shows you have a good sense of humidor.
  26. 1 point
    i am rich, i just don't have any money
  27. 1 point
    Thanks Drew and Bmac , happy to show a side shot @Bmac
  28. 1 point
    Pretty quick and simple to make. There's quite a few videos out there on making them, this is just my take..
  29. 1 point
    Derek awesome craftsmanship as always!! Great piece! Man is that going to pop with some finish on it.
  30. 1 point
    I recently had a friend request to have a media console made. He moved in to a hip condo downtown that was a remodeled space in some factory or warehouse. I asked him what style he wanted he sent me a picture we decided on dimensions and i started building. I got to pick the wood. Beings that i didn't really care to do oak and stain and light wasn't what he desired cherry was the obvious choice. I didn't take many pictures of the construction because it was very similar to the drawer system i made for my closer but I thought the end result would be appreciated. In the following picture you can see the completed case. I used 1/2" Cherry procore ply. It had a center core of fir surrounded by 2 mdf cores that had the cherry veneer on top. I picked up the ply off craig's list for a mere $35 a sheet. I used some home sawn edge banding to make the front edges. The top corners were mitered. It was my first time doing a long miter like that and i'm quite happy with the result. It was the biggest source of stress for the project. For ease of construction the back was 3 pieces and i glued everything together starting from 1 side to the other. Planning everything was tricky and fun. The holes on the bottom are for fans to cool the central cabinet. He didn't want any shelves. The dimensions of the sides are 20" x 20" x 12.5" deep. The only other thing that my friend insisted on was that the front had to have continuous grain. He originally thought plywood but my first thought jumped to how I would edge plywood and make that look good. My 2nd thought was where i'd get 3/4" ply beings that the one yard that i knew carried it had closed. I found another yard but learned that it would be cheaper to do solid wood. Luckily i knew of some 10.5" wide cherry boards that were just what the doctor ordered. I found some nifty brushed aluminum and to maintain the clean lines mortised them into the door. Here is a shot that shows the side and the top highlighting the most important miter. This is the first thing you'll see walking into the condo from the front door. Because of the lenght i wasn't able to do a waterfall edge :(. He wanted it to be 7' long and 20" tall so ..... that was a missed opertunity. And i was holding what i think is the best for last. The continuous grain front. To make sure that i maintained the continuous grain but also didn't short my self on material i made the center doors as 1 unit and cut the whole thing an inch long. I dind't know how the kerf was going to shake out and didn't want to take risks. Luckily i noticed that there was some strain grain between doors 3 and 4 if you number left to right that would allow me to loose at least an inch if needed with out being noticeable. So i did just that. Other wise the other doors are separated by a kerf width. I don't think the picture does it justice so if it seems life it falls short it may just be the crappy camera phone picture. I'll someday get a better one with the TV in place for scale. I also added in some cable management as well as a permanently mounted power strip that is wired in place. I don't really like making money off my friends but this one made me a good chunk. I priced fair but scored some cheep material.
  31. 1 point
    Really cool look, I like it, very unique. So if I follow correctly, you cut your 8 degree taper before turning, then you turned, shaped and glued. Didn't see the flat glue surface in the pictures you took of the turned legs but I assume they are there. Very nice and I'm really enjoying the build.
  32. 1 point
    Well written and documented. Thank you.
  33. 1 point
    Well, that explains your ability to explain the details of your woodwork in a way that most of us can understand!
  34. 1 point
    Still liking what you are doing.
  35. 1 point
    I’m in on this one as well Derek, wishing someday I will get to your level of skill, beautiful work sir!
  36. 1 point
    You always make my day when you post a project. A question: do you plan to leave the dovetails proud? That might be an interesting look.
  37. 1 point
    Beautiful work! I would be very nervous the deeper and more invested I got into the project. And the demand of incredible precision would be hard on my well being. I will watch and appreciate your exotic skills. Thanks for sharing!
  38. 1 point
    Some really nice work once again.
  39. 1 point
    Another great journal going here Derek! Thanks for taking us along I always pick up tips from your postings. This looks to be a really neat piece with some interesting challenges.
  40. 1 point
    Had another request for these so, decided to do something a little different with them!
  41. 1 point
    This was a tough project for me, and a small tribute in my way to Krenov. Rickey's (aka Spanky) curly ambrosia maple is the star of this show and makes me look better than I am. I've said before casework is not my favorite, I've leaned more and more to the sculptured stuff the past few years. But I'd have to say this project was not only a joy to make but a real challenge. Along with the above comments, I really wanted this to be a project journal. I've come to believe when you show your work as you are doing it, you become better from the experience. I also love following project journals and I'm bummed there have been fewer and fewer on here. I didn't want to be part of the problem. And no, I'm not a facebook guy and I'm not moving over to that format, won't do it. Ok, so here goes. I did a wine cabinet a month ago, it turned out well and I had planned to use the basis of that design to make a new liquor cabinet and buffet table. The old ones I have now were made by me 20 years ago and have held up well, but are blocky and unrefined. These will be great to pass on to the kids as they move out. But I wanted to update and get more refined pieces now that my skill level has started to progress. This cabinet has the same flow and leg contours as the wine cabinet had. It's 4' high and about 30" wide. It's made out of walnut I harvested and milled my self and some beautiful curly ambrosia maple that I got from Rickey. Here are a few pictures in production stage. I took these when I thought I could still get this in a project journal. This is a pic of a side of the cabinet, the 2 legs are attached to a panel with dados via loose tenons (aka Dominos). A view of dry asembly, the second pic shows I put 3 cross supports dovetailed intro the side panels. For the drawers I used a center guide rail, I like the simplicity of this and the predictability of this; Pic with the underside of the drawer; The doors were a challenge, and I'm not the best at them. I posted on these in regards to what hinge to use. I settled on a simple solution, but I do wish I attempted a offset knife hinge. My opening wasn't perfectly square. When I put the doors in with just dry assembly, here's what I got; The gap between the doors closes when the top hinges are placed. So I used hide glue for the longer set time and for my ability to manipulate the joint; I put blue tape in the opening to prevent an "issue". Here's a pic with the top hinges in place, presto no gap left; I let these doors sit in place until the hide glue cured. Then I hand planed the hinge side of the door to develop a uniform opening from top to bottom. Since I used a no mortise hinge I needed a slight gap for the hinges. Here's the final assembly, notice the matching figure of the 2 drawers fronts; The back is shiplapped sassafras, love the smell. Did not put a finish on this. Here's a pic of the door tenon/mortise joint, a little tearout on the tenon but still a nice fit; Custom pulls that turned out great; Grain match was ok, but wasn't a knockout; The cabinet in place; Handcut dovetails in the drawers; Fully stocked! Thanks for looking!
  42. 1 point
    Bench is now finished! I acutually finished the construction about 1 month ago, and have already finished another project using the bench. The only part that I still needed to finish was the chop, because I had some decoration to do on it. Final dimensions are 79 1/2" long x 25 1/4" wide by 35" tall. I didn't make a sliding deadman as I don't do projects that really require it, but I did route in the groove in the front slab in case I decide to make one in the future, so it will be easy to add if needed. As a present for finally finishing, I bought myself a Veritas BU Smoothing Plane to finish the chop. It is very satisfying to use. I also bought the front knob and tote to convert my LABP into a little smoother. This is a great upgrade Here are some details of the chop. I went with a gothic theme, and bonus points to whomever can identify the symbol (it's not religious or political or anything like that...): Anyway, that it. This was a fun build, and again I'd like to thank everyone else on here who posted their builds as it made mine much easier. Art
  43. 1 point
    I built this shelf out of off the rack red oak a few years ago. I saw all this curl in the back of the pile and bought the whole board. Used Marc’s recipe for popping the grain. I think it turned out well. I have no beef with red oak.
  44. 1 point
    I'd tear the whole garage down, build it adjoining the house, make the ridge the same height as the other end, and same roof slope, with a matching hip. You could make it as wide as you wanted to. Draw 24', and see what it looks like.
  45. 1 point
    I've been a lurker here for years reading posts and soaking up knowledge, but I rarely post. I recently took on a project that I felt was well above my skill level, and I learned a lot form it. This post is meant primarily to encourage those who feel they don't have the "right tools" or the skills to go ahead and give it a shot anyway. You'll surprise yourself with what you can do. A bit about me, I am by no means a pro. During college I worked as a framer for about 6 months before my fear of heights got the better of me. I then got a job via classified ad (that'll date me) for a finish carpenter. When I called the number on the ad, the guy asked me only a few questions; 1.) Do you own reliable transportation? 2.) Do you own the following tools: table saw, compound mitre saw, jig saw, router, palm sander, air compressor, nail guns...the list goes on and on. 3.) Can you start tomorrow? I did own a vehicle (that couldn't fit all the tools needed) , I could start the next day, but I didn't own any tools other than framing hand tools (but I said I had them). I went out that night and convinced my young bride that dropping a load of money on these tools for the job was a good idea. So I did. I showed up the next day with a car load of new tools (not the nicest) I'd never used and proceeded to get an education. I had no idea what I was doing, but I made some money and loved the job. I did finish work for about 3 years to put me through school, and that is the extent of my woodworking experience. Fastforward 11 years since I left woodworking to park my butt in the cockpit of a jet for a living, and my wife called upon me to jump into the way-back machine, dust off my tools and build her a new kitchen. I foolishly said okay. This project included gutting our existing kitchen, removing walls and ceiling, rewiring and new pluming, so It was more than just a new cabinet build. Apologies for the mess in the foreground/background. I have kids...and they are messy. Kitchen before: Kitchen after: Loos smaller than before, but the wall to the left includes the pantry with didn't exist before. All in all we gained a lot more usable cabinet space than we previously had. The peninsula with the oven (far left of kitchen) used to have a floor to ceiling wall behind it that blocked the dinning room (where my ladder is sitting), so we lost the upper cabinets there. We doubled the width of the island and added storage on the back and also added 3 feet to the length. Various Details - Vent Hood Back of Island Pantry wall with faux beams Dovetail maple drawers Anyway, that's the gist of it. If I can do it, anyone can. So go ahead and jump in and start something. Reading blogs and watching videos online is great and motivating, but nothing beats making sawdust (and mistakes) in the shop. I may post construction pictures and techniques if there is interest. This was a fun and occasionally frustrating project that took about 6 months from beginning of demolition to finished product.
  46. 1 point
    Made a fair bit of progress the last two days. First, I’m thrilled to say that my client is happy with an undercoat of boiled linseed oil and a top coat of polyurethane. That’s my favorite finish, so count that as a victory in the “influencing clients to choose a good finish” chart! I’m pumped. I now have all the walnut joinery finished. I assembled it all and used a little tape to help mock up the final look: The birch plywood panels will be up against a wall, so no worries there, btw. The client told me to not waste good materials on that side. The only trouble I’m having is that I made a rookie mistake and made the top rails all mortise-and-tenon rather than bridle or dovetail joints. I’m getting blowout on the end grain on most of the mortises because there's only about 3/16" of shoulder: Truth be told, I’m not that worried. It’ll be basically as strong as a bridle joint once there’s glue in it, and then it’ll be covered with a countertop for the rest of human history - not to mention that this vanity will be screwed to wall studs and never moved again. It’s already way overbuilt, even with the blowout. Next up is the plywood, I gues!
  47. 1 point
    I’ve always had an interest in building, fixing and DIY. Our family would spend 3 months a year in a very remote fishing village in SE Alaska, so maintaining/building/fixing seems to run in the family DNA. In 2009, we bought our first home – right off a busy street, but super close to my work. It had been a rental for 30+ years before we bought, so there were LOTS of projects… I made cabinet doors, cased windows (so many windows...), remodeled our wood stair case with new pine treads and risers, built a deck, built a bed for one of the kids, and many other projects. Projects need tools, which then allow you to build more projects. I also built tall mirror frames, and other finish pieces for the family. I discovered a passion for woodworking during that time – it relaxes me, and lets me use my hands to create. We also had 2 kids, and about 2 years ago, we decided to sell and move a little way out of the city so the kids could play outside and we wouldn’t have to hear traffic. In early 2016, we bought a new house situated on a little over an acre. Part of the move was to give space for a shop, so I could continue to tinker, create and build, and allowing the Wife to park in the garage for the first time in our 9 year marriage (sorry Babe, just a few more weeks). Once the transaction closed on the new property, we started getting quotes and figuring out what needed to happen to enable to the shop to be built. I had some ideas about what I wanted: 24x36’, 864 sqft. Big enough to park in if necessary, and still have a mostly functioning shop space. Pole building (for cost) Tall interior ceiling height with limited interior roof framing to cast shadows and interfere with work. We’ve elected to go with a shed style roof with glu-lams/LVL's so there’s minimal interior roof structure hanging down to cast shadows and interfere with tall work. The low side will be about 9’ on the inside, while the tall side will be around 15’. Single garage door, I didn’t to lose wall space, and I am not planning to park inside it anyway. I’m also concerned about preventing theft, so minimizing the number of potential entry points was high on my list. My design ideas were influenced by Frank Howarth’s shop, ideas from BubbaEstes’ build, as well as other shops I’ve seen on here and other places, along with our own needs and desires for how the shop should sit on our property, and what we want to do in it. Getting ready to build has taken a year, and we signed our building contract back in June. We had to take care of some septic requirements, namely getting a reserve drainfield identified, having test holes dug, and inspected (“yep, those are holes”). We also had to get some electrical work done, like replacing the panel, setting up for a generator and the shop sub-panel. We were warned to expect the permit process to last for 4-5 months: it was completed in less than 3 weeks. Everyone from the inspectors to the builder were shocked by the speed. In the middle of November, our site prep was completed. One of our main concerns was maintaining the forested nature of our lot: we didn’t want to remove many trees. We took down a couple of tall, thin trees which I'm pretty sure were cherry, a fir, a cedar, and a decent sized maple… the maple will become a Roubo bench someday, and I’ve got a small pile of cherry logs waiting for me to chainsaw mill them down to size. The guy with the excavator did a phenomenal job – the site is cleared and graded for drainage, and he laid down a layer of crushed asphalt as a building pad. I've been pleasantly surprised at how well the asphalt compacts down - it's REALLY solid under foot. We called the builder on 4 December to let them know our site prep was complete, and they told me to expect materials deliveries beginning on Monday 11 December. That same evening (one week early), a guy pulled up in our driveway and dropped off our steel entry door for the shop… Then on Thursday at 6:45 am while at work, I got a phone call from a truck driver, asking where I wanted him to leave the metal panels. By end of the day Thursday, most of the building materials were organized strategically about the site, 3 days early. Construction starts the week of 18 December. I'll keep posting updates and pictures of the build over the next few weeks. Here we go… J
  48. 1 point
    I thought about the webcam, but the Christmas prep, the last minute log move and life in general just got in the way... I didn't have time to do the research and make it happen. I'm off work all next week, and I'll be able to post pictures more frequently. Thanks for the tip on curling the bucket - I tried that, but between the log being pear shaped, and my general lack of excavator skill, I found it easier to strap the dang thing to the bucket with the 15000 lb tow straps. I slabbed up the knuckle where the branches splay out on the bandsaw on Saturday - I'm hoping the rest of the log is as awesome as this part is.
  49. 1 point
    Well, there is is, all complete! Sander is up and running and just waiting for the new DC piping! Huge "THANKS" @Llama for getting some measurements to me early enough to have the stand ready to go! Hope some people got a few things here that they can use in their shops!
  50. 1 point
    I got around to mounting the grinder on a plywood base along with the Veritas grinder stand that I had previously on another wet grinder. The Epihanes still hadn't dried hard, so you may notice that the nuts to hold the grinder down aren't tightened down yet. I took some pictures. It's unbelievably smooth. With it running, I placed a machine screw on top of the motor on the flat head. Then I thought that was too easy so turned the screw on the other end. I found a hand forged nail nearby, and placed it on its head while the motor was still running. Looking for something else, I found a nickel in my pocket. You may be able to tell in those pictures that the wheel is spinning, so the motor is running. Yes, that's a round top on the motor. It's probably at least 50 times faster than a Tormek, doesn't need water (cuts so fast that it doesn't put heat in the steel), and the wheel will always stay the same diameter. The Stuart Batty gauge in the picture does a perfect job of showing you how to set the stand to grind common cutter angles the first time on an 8" diameter wheel. http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2084638/38159/stuart-batty-tools-angle-gauge-one.aspx Since the wheel will always be an 8" diameter, it was worth its cost for this rig. At this point, I don't know that I need to spend another $175 for the coarse wheel for the right side of this grinder, but have left enough room for a stand on that side of the base in case I decide to get it. The Veritas stands are easily adjustable, but still completely rigid. It does exactly what I hoped it would.