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  1. 11 points
    Some final pictures now that I got it back from the upholsterer. First off, on the copper pins I used a product called Everbrite to protect from tarnish. I was doing some research on the internet regarding rattle can lacquer as a finish on these and ran across some information on this product. And just in case you need, they have a great customer service called with several questions and you could tell the person helping me new their stuff not just reading of an information sheet. Everbrite is a product that is used to do exactly what I wanted. It is use to protect things like weather vanes, metal cupolas, metal hoods over stoves and even things like copper jewelry. You can wipe it on, brush it on or even dip your item. It is self leveling and no bubbles, I noticed that even when you get a bubble in a few seconds it bursts and then levels, no sign of it. Really a top notch product in my book. Here is a few pictures of the seat cushion construction. I provided the wood frame. First they mounted the zig zag springs on the side of the frame that will be facing up. There is a bow to the springs, you can see that in the piece that is laying on the bench in the upper right corner of the picture. Next they tie the springs to keep them aligned and they also attach some leather tabs to the two outside row of springs to keep the whole spring system stable and not feeling like its swaying from side to side when you sit on it. Turns out these folks are just like us wood workers, sometimes they get so involved in what they are doing that they forget to take photos along the way. But the next thing they do is put some kind of heavy polyester material over the springs so the foam and batten doesn't abrade against the springs. This next picture shows the cushion after they put on the material looking at the bottom side. The only thing missing at this point is the black fabric that they use to seal the bottom side off. And the final fit. Here are some pictures of the final product. I asked them to leave the back rest cushion a couple of inches short of the top of the back rest so that you would see some of the wood of the top slate. The mohair fabric has sort of a chatoyance to it. This next picture give a good image of the color. Here are a couple of pictures of the copper pivot and adjustment pins. I am extremely happy with how the upholstery turned out and over all I am really happy with the whole chair and it was definitely a fun project with a handful of firsts for me. Thanks for following along.
  2. 10 points
    First three out of the spray room, first delivery tomorrow morning at 9am That's a wrap!
  3. 6 points
    I got a Lee Valley gift certificate. Actually, 2 of them. Due to a website glitch, the 1st one I ordered didn't show as complete, so I ordered another, which did. Then 2 of them arrived (both charged to my card). Their is supposed to be a limit of 1 per customer, but here I am with 2. Darn
  4. 5 points
    Bought myself a new broom for the floors. And use it now and then as cheap transportation.
  5. 5 points
    Well, access to the workshop is a little difficult as I have been in Europe for the past week, and have another three more before returning home. Currently in Vienna, and next off to Berlin. In the two weekends before leaving, I did a little more dovetailing, but my focus was largely taken by setting up a new drill press - birthday present for January ... Merry Christmas from Vienna Derek
  6. 4 points
    My list was short and sweet. I received drawing bows (symmetric and asymmetric) from Lee Valley. Been on my want list for awhile but couldn't bring myself to pay for them. Thought it was a good gift idea for me. Now I'm ready to design a dozen chairs.
  7. 4 points
    Thanks. My sister doesn't follow fads or trends much she wanted something nice and timeless. These fads end up just looking dated in short time. They were very excited and happy. The first comment was "this is goign to make the kitchen FAR more useful".
  8. 4 points
    The snowmen were a big hit. My girls informed me that there was a Mr snowman and a Mrs snowman, so here they are. I may have done a few touch ups after their paint job, and they've got shellac over it to seal it in. They've already put in their order for snowman kids for next year.
  9. 3 points
    Been around Coop. Took up another hobby that takes some time, and just generally haven't been in the shop much the past several months. I'm too deep though, even if I disappear for a bit now and again I'll keep coming back.
  10. 3 points
    Bought myself a VSCT fence. I just realized that my Grizzly's guide rails are not standard Bies sizes. I'm not committed to the new fence enough to make new rails...unless I'm missing something and someone has seen a VSCT on a 715, I'm just gonna sell it.
  11. 3 points
    Search William Ng 5 cuts to a perfect crosscut sled on YouTube he does a nice job of explaining how to get it spot on.
  12. 2 points
    Actually about a month ago. But who's counting. There's only one bad thing about the set: You have to remove the collar off the bit before closing. All that and a simple failure to create the appropriate divots.
  13. 2 points
    For years I didn't have these and didn't seem to need them. Then I bought them when I needed the symmetrical one fro a project and now I seem to pull them out all the time for different things. I almost couldn't live with out them now.
  14. 2 points
    I received the trim stop for my Domino and a Veritas flat spoke shave.
  15. 2 points
    I got: Preppin' weapon sanding block Lee Valley Router Plane (stolen off porch, to be reordered) Nakashima's Soul of a Tree Krenov's Impractical Cabinetmaker Woodpeckers mini square magnetic base adjustable LED light I'll probably use part of my year-end bonus or distribution to buy myself something else, but I haven't decided what yet. Was thinking about a bigger bandsaw, but we will be moving out of state in about 6 months so I'll probably wait until we move to buy any more machinery.
  16. 2 points
    Well I think I want to try the 3rd Maloof chair, but I wanted to talk with the guy that is going to handle the upholstery with some design questions I had. I also have a few projects I’m wrapping up now so as soon as they are off my workbench I’ll start sketching out my plans. I’ve also been researching designs off and on since my last post and I will likely tackle a chair like the Morley design as well, may do the Maloof and Morley at the same time.
  17. 2 points
    I think with the vanda orchid flower and the cutting board, I'll get past the front door.
  18. 2 points
    Ahh if I had a dollar for every time I heard that LOL
  19. 2 points
    Thanks for the info, but my local cabinet parts supplier delivers good quality 22" side mounts for $54/box. They won't sell low quality slides and that's why I was looking for cheap under mounts. I think I'm just going to buy Blum under mounts from the local cabinet shop I install for. They buy a pallet of them from our local supplier at discount and I can buy them for just 3 or 4 dollars a pair more than the cheapest I've seen anywhere else. I guess I didn't realize how good of a price I was getting close to home.
  20. 2 points
    Well Christmas is here and I missed the deadline. But I presented it to my wife anyway, with where it’s at, and she loves it. Now she wants it done and that makes two of us.
  21. 2 points
    I'll make sure my door is unlocked. Just come right in. There should be hot pancakes and eggs.
  22. 2 points
    Ok I was starting to get concerned about 4 o'clock but ultimately I am now construction complete on all 6 boxes and have started finishing the 2 I need to deliver on xmas eve. This all happened over the last 2 1/2 days sorry for the data dump but I was tired last night In this pic I have sealed the beveled edges with a 50/50 mixture of water & glue. This helps keep the glue from sucking into the end grain during glue up ultimately providing a stronger joint...so they say. After letting that dry for about 3 hours I started gluing up the boxes. Once dry I removed the tape and cleaned them up a bit Then I had to whip up a quick key jig as I never did find the one I had. My guess is it was for the old PM66 and most of those jigs went with the saw when I sold it since they didn't fit the SS. Then I cut up about 80 keys Made a test fit Then started cutting the boxes. I used stop blocks for each location and also wrote on the jig which side the top should be on. Next up was to glue in the keys. These little glue bottles work great but you need to clean them as soon as your done or they will be a one use tool, ask me how I know. They come with covers but they don't work long term so I use hot water to clean them up quick. Rinse and repeat Then I headed to the belt sander to make quick work of the clean up Next up was to cut the tops off ...well almost. I left about a 1/32nd so that I didn't have to worry about the blade catching Then use a knife to cut them apart ...and clean up the little bit left with a plane and sanding block. You can see in this pic not much there The last thing to do was make and fit the liners. First I resawed some stock. this is right of the saw with a $40 Woodslicer blade . just over 1/8" thick It was time to make another jig. I needed a 45 degree jig to make the liners. Pretty straight forward then I mounted it in the vice and started working I find this kind of work very satisfying and some final shots (sans finish) Thanks for following along and I hope you all have an awesome Christmas!! I will post some final pics after the finish is dry to the touch For now I'm off to bed and then back to the basement...
  23. 1 point
    Sawstop Inline Router Table My wonderful wife asked me what I wanted for my birthday next week so I obliged with a list. She recognized the Sawstop name and ordered the 27” x 16” inline router table and dust box to replace my shop built router table I’ve been using for years. It arrived yesterday, so you know where I’ve been today. I’ll bore you with a little of my background. I’m retired from 30+ years in the woodworking machinery business, starting with the types of tools all of us here are familiar with - upscale hobbyist to small production shop woodworking stuff. From there I moved on to heavy industrial production machinery and finally to specializing in industrial CNC equipment before retiring a few years ago. I’ve also been a lifelong hobbyist. With that out of the way… Impressions I’ve said it here and other places, but I’ll say it again. I’ve never, ever seen a company do a better job of making it as easy as possible for a consumer to understand and assemble their product than Sawstop. Any machine, any level, and I’ve probably assembled many hundreds. From packaging to manuals, they do it right. Here’s an example. Four of the five boxes inside the large (very heavy duty) shipping box contained a note indicating that the manual was in a separate box. The manual was in the fifth box with the cast iron router table.The manual is 62 pages of photos with detailed explanations of what hardware to use where. Each bag was labelled with the assembly it went to. When I unpacked the router table itself I noticed what looked like a scratch in the cast iron. Sure enough, it was. Then I noticed that there was an identical scratch on the opposite edge - for lining up the fence to the center of the bit. Devil in the details. This thing is really, really solid, really well built, end to end. The surface is flat using a Starrett 36” straightedge. I could not see light below the edge. The fence body is a very heavy anodized extrusion with integral dust port, side to side adjustment and T-slots for accessories. They include (hard to describe) T-slot spacer shims that let you use the fence like a jointer by offsetting the right and left fence faces. The fence itself is perfect for a table saw installation. On and off takes seconds, 90 degrees square to the table with a Starrett combination square. The extrusion looks almost identical to the JessEm Mast-R-Fence II extrusion other than the anodizing color. It differs in the way the fence faces slide side to side in T-tracks on the Sawstop vs in slots in the extrusion itself on the JessEm. It also mounts directly to the table rather to the side tracks on the JessEm. The router mount plate has 10 (10!) leveling bolts with lock nuts for precisely adjusting it to the table surface. The legs seem significantly beefier than the legs that came with the saw. The leg mounting brackets definitely are. It includes a paddle switch that the router plugs into, as well as holders for the tools like insert ring wrenches, height adjustment tool, etc. Installation It took more time to remove the old router table than to install the new one. It took about 2 hours to assemble and install the new table. That included disconnecting the outfeed table, cleanup, etc. I installed the Sawstop router table (SSRT) on the right end of my Sawstop PCS, 36”. I did not install it in any of the 3 suggested ways covered in the manual. The 3 ways listed in the manual are to the left of the blade, to the right of the blade with an optional 10” cast iron insert or with a shop made spacer insert like the laminate covered one shipped with the saw. I chose to instead mount it directly to the right extension wing with no insert. I did it because the SSRT is just long enough (16”) to still support the fence at its full 36” width, AND it lets me avoid the dust pipe that drops at that exact 36” width (see photo) for the big majority of the work I do with the router table. I’m going to give this a shot and if I don’t like it I’ll add the insert back in. I got my saw before Sawstop took on the router table line, so the rails were never intended to support them. Because of this, Sawstop offers new rails that are drilled and countersunk for the SSRT and notched for the miter slots in the SSRT. My rails don’t line up. In the photos you can see that I notched my rails for my old table and that’s what I plan to do for the new one. I don’t see the need to buy new rails, especially if I keep the setup as it is. The only disappointment I have is really with myself for not thinking to ensure the dust box was big enough for my router. I chose to keep using my 3 ¼ Hp Triton router. It has an integral lift micro adjustment and has been great. The router is way too big for the box. I can barely get my hands inside and have to pull it out to adjust it. That said, the dust box is well worth the money with the right router/lift mechanism. It has dual sized ports for the fence dust collection and from the box, adjustable draft vent and a magnetic door latch, as well as a split port for running the router power cable to the switch. Well thought out and well executed! Oh well, now I know what to ask for for Christmas! The SSRT fits standard router table inserts like the Kreg phenolic I’ve used for years. Summary I wouldn't hesitate to recommend this table to my best friend!
  24. 1 point
    Hey all, This will be sort of quick project journal on two recent bed projects I've completed. The first is a house bed I made for 1 year old daughter. We already had the extra queen mattress, so that determined the size, and my wife wanted something close to the ground so my daughter could climb into it right from the start. Over the summer I posted about salvaging a large number of cedar boards from an old deck. I planed the boards down, tossed the excessively deteriorated ones, and dried the others in my garage for about 4 months, which was sufficient for the approximately 1 inch thick boards to dry out. Sorry, I didn't capture many shots of the construction, but it involved making two rectangular sub frames which are bolted together and in turn have the two end A-Frames bolted to them. Initially I planned to construct everything with strategic bolted connections, to allow for disassembly, and I mostly carried that through to the end. However, as I got further into the project, I realized the cedar material really was quite soft, and this probably won't be a hand me down type bed, but should be fun for my daughter none the less. This also helped me decide on the antique white paint, which matches a couple other items in her room. This also reduced the need to do as much sanding, as I was truly in a hurry as she was rapidly outgrowing her crib! This was the original version: However, after putting it to use, my wife complained that the horizontal bar made it awkward to enter and exit the bed. She was right. Taking that horizontal bar out completely wasn't really an option, as it provided stability to the rest of the bed frame, so I came up with this modification (bonus points for spotting my cats tail!): The second bed was needed for guests. I looked into buying a simple metal frame, but online review scared me away from that option and decided to come up with something simple. I settled on this platform design to keep the bed relatively low to the ground and eliminate the need for a box spring. I selected cherry for its universal appeal. I didn't have any 16/4 Cherry for the legs, so they are made of four 4/4 plies laminated together, to a final thickness of about 3 1/2 inches. I decided to use floating tenon joints on the end frames. I was able to use a dowel jig on the ends of the long rail pieces, which was less awkward than trying to do them by hand or by router. For the mortises on the legs, I used hand tools. Gluing up the eccentric rail to leg connections proved to be more challenging than anticipated. I do not have any bar clamps that can cover the required 6+ feet, so I had to use strap clamps. However, the straps do not apply their force solely down the length of the rail, as a result, the legs wanted to rotate. I solved this problem by using cutting 2x4 filler boards to balance the load. I cut the 2x4 a tiny amount longer than the rail, which ensured a closed joint on the show, outside face. Next step was assembling the frame, and gluing on pine laminations for the inner slat support. I decided to finish the bed with 3 coats of gloss Enduro Var and 1 coat of Satin Next moving the bed to its final location: Close ups of some details: I chamfered all the edges with a block plane and used non-mortising hardware, which I already had on hand. They are very strong. Chamfered Corners: And the final shot: Overall I'm happy with how both beds turned out. I was able to complete them in a timely manner, minimized waste (all salvaged A LOT of material for my daughters bed), and now my daughter and visiting parents have a place to sleep! Thanks for taking a look!
  25. 1 point
    I started this Morris Chair project about 3 weeks back. I wasn't really planning on doing a detailed journal, but I have been taking photos along the way and thought I would share them here. I am making this out of Sapele. When I first started thinking about this project 3 or 4 years back I was planning on doing it in Quarter Sawn White Oak but for some reason the lumber yards around here aren't carrying much 8/4 inventory. They are nice enough to offer to order what I need but this does give me an opportunity to select my pieces. I have done some other projects in Sapele and have really enjoyed it and I think this will end up looking good. Once I got the initial dimensions down I haven't used the guild plans much, I did how ever watch the videos a few times so I guess it all the same. I am going with a little more traditional thinking in what I do so I am not tapering the legs or doing the curved feature on the bottom side of ht topside rails or the top of the bottom rails and at this time I am planning of going with the straight side pieces for the back rest. This picture below was the inspiration for my design. I saw these in Crater Lake Lodge in Oregon a few years ago They have about 15 of these that were made in the early 1900's These first picture are after a lot of the basic stuff was done. The parts are littered with my chalk and blue tape notations. I used a veneer to cover the glue line on the legs it's just a fuzz of 1/16 inch thick. This picture was before anything was sanded. After this I took it apart and numbered things in inconspicuously located spots like inside the mortise and on the tenons. Then I worked on a detail for the bottom of the bottom rails, I kind of stole or borrowed this design from Mick's chair. I also did a cut out detail in some of the slats. At this point I sanded everything to 150, I will do 180 once I am done "banging" things up and before the glue up. Everything sanded and stacked on the cart. Before I started sanding the other things I got my first arm glued up and in the bending form. I was hoping to stay away from urea and formaldehyde in the glue I used for this so I was looking around at information on the internet, then while listening to one of Phillip Morley's podcast, he mentioned that he used Unibond One for veneer work and he was real happy with it and it doesn't contain anything that makes you worry. Well now I am telling you I am REAL happy with Unibond One. It did a great job, I had just a strong 1/16 worth of spring back and my glue lines are non existent, I am just real pleased with how they came out. I was prepared to do an edge veneer on the arms to hide glue lines if I had to but no need now. Close up of the arm sitting arch up on my saw table. Both arms all cleaned up and cut to size.
  26. 1 point
    Stunning piece, Chet! The copper pins were a true inspiration. Really sets them off.
  27. 1 point
    Not exactly woodworking related, but sort of. And not intended as a Christmas gift to myself, but the timing just worked out. I had ordered a small vinyl sign cutting setup, to put professional looking labels on my toolboxes, and anywhere else that needed a sign, and it came Christmas Eve.
  28. 1 point
    That's the park you knocked it out of. Drop dead beautiful.
  29. 1 point
    Looks awesome, Chet! The mohair cushions are an excellent choice.
  30. 1 point
    That is one nice chair! Well done sir!!
  31. 1 point
    Beautiful! Not much else needs to be said. Those copper pins remind me I have A lathe and Morris chair pins that were never finished....
  32. 1 point
    Absolutely beautiful Chet, instant heirloom, and will be treasured by many generations, well done sir!
  33. 1 point
    That means a lot to me, coming from you the chair master himself.
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    There's also a good chance that there's just a piece missing from the apron where the drawer is. I have a coffee table built like that (bought as unfinished furniture that I stained/varnished before getting into building). It holds up ok, but it is weaker than the construction the other guys showed - I'd go with those methods.
  37. 1 point
    I have that set, but in a different container. I bought it new around 40 years ago. Several of the drill bits have been replaced over that time, but it still gets used. Mine sits open in a wooden stand that it came with, rather than a closed box, and it didn't come with any plug cutters.
  38. 1 point
    My guess is that there is a pair of narrow rails hidden behind the drawer fronts, that provide the function of an apron, and the visible apron pieces attach to them. Similar to how the typical Shaker side table is made for the drawer, but with false fronts that hide the actual rails. With the lower rail mortised into the legs, and the upper rail dovetailed, they provide almost tge same strength and rigitity as a single wide apron, especially if the false apron fronts are them glued to the rails.
  39. 1 point
    I agree with the above electrical wisdom, although it is possible to run a cord from a wall outlet across the ceiling to a piece of equipment in the middle of the room. Make sure lighting has it's own circuit. You can't have too many 240V circuits, but they can be in the wrong places. Be sure your circuit box has room to grow. Oh, yeah, you need a lathe .
  40. 1 point
    Very well done Paul! Even the pics are professional looking!
  41. 1 point
    I remember driving to Chicago from Berrien Springs in January and it being the scariest driving experience I've been in. It wasn;t the smartest idea driving at night and it felt like a blizzard outside. We just sat behind a bunch of trucks and hoped for the best. Walking around Chicago was the coldest I've ever felt. Beaniue, gloves, thermals, merino wool jumper, down vest, down jacket and a wool overcoat and I still felt cold. Maybe Spring would be a good option. @RichardA Will do. We didn't get enough time out your way last time. @K Cooper Sounds like a plan. The pads were cut from a tile of 8mm thick rubber with the square pattern you see on the leg. I can't find the exact product online but this was similar https://www.bunnings.com.au/moroday-400-x-500-x-6mm-adhesive-rubber-mat_p4000015. The one I bought was quite firm but still cut easily with scissors to the size I needed. Bunnings is our version of Home Depot.
  42. 1 point
    Shops are about flow. Materials go In and projects come out. What is A and what is B and so on....
  43. 1 point
    THANK YOU all!! Sorry I haven't responded sooner, but I've been focused on getting the house packed up for the move. I really appreciate all this information - I was familiar with Timber Hardwoods in Mesa - when I would visit in years past, I always enjoyed going through Timber and seeing what they had, both in lumber and machinery. Hey, if it takes a 3 hr round trip to get what I need, so be it, and if it's a little more expensive, that's the price of being warm and dry year around! Even now in Pennsylvania, I travel 2 hrs round trip to my lumber supplier. I did go through King Mesquite the last time I was in Tucson - I was really impressed. Being an AZ native, I always wanted to work with mesquite, so this will be my opportunity. I would have thought up north, out of Flagstaff or Payson there might be a mill or lumber source. Even though it's a drive, it maybe worth it to pick up a good sized amount for future use. Thank you all for your kind help - I'll be back with you when we get there and I get set up - shop is going to be a "1/2 garage" (240 sf) shop instead of 1,000 sf in my basement, so I have a lot of work ahead to get that set up. Rockshox, I'll PM you when I get there and get set up and maybe we can get together and talk woodworking!
  44. 1 point
    That is a really cute design for your daughter's bed. The guest bed looks like it should serve it's purpose for quite a while.
  45. 1 point
    I have been waiting for my turn to arrive at the upholsters and finally took it in last Thursday and should have it back in the next 2 or 3 days. In the mean time my son in law was able to get the pivot and adjustment pins done for me. Even this took a while because his company was moving to a new location and putting some new machines in. So as it happened they used my pins to test the set up of a couple of machines. I am still deciding whether to go with the present finish or do a brushed finish. I am leaning toward brushed, I am wondering if the present finish would look to flashy. What is your opinions? Here are a few pictures and the final results of the pins.
  46. 1 point
    I've used a couple of the "skylight" panels that are 1'x4'. They diffuse the light much better than the other fixtures, and they're only about 3/4" thick. These are intended to be surface mounted, so they actually have trim around the edge. The negatives are that they're more expensive, and they're hard wired. If I was starting my lighting over, I'd probably just use a few more of those for the even light through the shop. That's one on the ceiling over my work bench.
  47. 1 point
    So a little work done this morning. Some of the dividers (partitions) and a few more minor adjustments to the plan that I didn’t think out fully. Not a big deal, most folks won’t think about it (I hope). But progress nonetheless and I’m having fun this morning.
  48. 1 point
    I realized i never posed the final pictures with finish applied. I guess I was hoping I'd get the tail vise and twin turbo vise installed but that isn't going to happen for a while. The poor empty end cap for the tail vise. Hopefully someday soon i'll fill this with hardware but it's not a priority. The gap stop had some awesome pitch pockets in it that left an awesome effect. I'll never get seen wedged between the 2 slabs but i guess it's comforting to know it's there. The back face of the bench had some nice figure in the grain. It makes a nice effect walking by the bench. I made sure to put the 2 flashy faces to the front and back as i have access to all 4 sides of the bench. The 2 stars of the show. The leg vise and the sliding deadman. I went with the live edge theme for the deadman which i give credit to @bleedinblue for giving me the idea. Thanks I like it. For the live edge of the walnut deadman I did an edge treatment that I first saw Matt Cremona do on JR's bed. I really liked the effect because it reminded me of bocotte. Last touches are holes in the deadman, which I'll drill as needed. and hold fast holes in the top. Also will drill as needed. Since taking these pictures i have drilled 2 holes in the top for my pane stop from my previous bench. So not 100% done year but for all intents and purposes this is substantially complete. I've been using the leg vise on the Dining Table build for my sister and i have to say it's a real luxury. It's no better than my budget twin screw but it's a lot faster and easier to use. Ok maybe it does hold a bit better but only because i can get more leverage and i never managed to get the budget twin screw jaws to stay parallel.
  49. 1 point
    I want to take some better pictures with proper lighting and after the upholstery is finished but I thought I would post a handful of pictures of the chair with finish and still in the shop. the lighting isn't great but hope you get the idea. The arms are actually book matched but you can't really tell because the way the ribbon grain in the sapele moves and the chatoyance in the wood. I have my place in line with the upholsterers to take it in on the 6th of December anti will take them a week. I didn't know this but they're industry has its own busy season and it turns out it is now. I guess everybody gets there furniture all gussied up for their guest over the holidays. I want to thank Mick S I was bugging him with several questions during this project.
  50. 1 point
    I made a pair of sideboards based on a piece in Good, Better, Best , Masterpiece by Albert Sacks. They are mahogany, with holly, ebony, lacewood and poplar. The finish is about 15 coats of super blonde shellac, which were rubbed out with pumice and rottenstone, and then obviously waxed. I am sorry to have to watermark the pictures, but photos of mine that have been on this forum have been used by someone who claimed my work as his own. Pictures when I am in the shots have no watermark, and I hope that the other pictures are not obstructing the view of the work. The hardbound book that I made of the project has 104 pages showing all the aspects of construction. I choose more pages to show then may be appropriate for this forum. If this is too much for the site I hope the webmaster would politely ask me to remove whatever needs to be trimmed off the post. I hope there is a way for anyone of you folks to feel that the information will assist you in your work. Any questions will be responded too, and if pictures make the explanation easier, I will post those upon request.