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  1. 19 points
    This project was for me. It's a tall desk with a partially sloped top and shelf for computer monitors. Been working on this since before Christmas. I used a story stick for the legs - worked great.
  2. 13 points
    I finally finished with this project. The top is made from a single piece of butternut and the bottom is made from a block of wood that was labelled English walnut, but turned out to be teak. This was the blank I asked about in the Wood section and @phinds was kind enough to evaluate. @Chestnut, I know you particularly wanted to see the figure, but after turning and sculpting there's almost nothing left of the indented grain pattern. There is a little visible in the right hand pillar of the first two photo's.
  3. 12 points
    OK, I love project journals, and now that I've had to close my dental office for the unforseen future, I'd thought I'd contribute to the forum again with a build. This has been a build on my list for a while. Sort of been putting it off since it's a big build, over 11 feet long. Had to build a plywood benchtop to go over my work bench and a lot of prep work needed to get the frame correct. Hopefully when this whole thing is over I'll get a chance to enjoy this build. I'll be using red cedar and paulownia for this build. The frame is made from 1/4" ply. I've had the pattern printed for a while. Started with the frame cut out. Feet were included in the pattern to suport the skeleton until the top deck is glued on. Here's a pick of the frame without the cross pieces, all the vertical lines on the pattern are where the cross pieces will be placed; Cross pieces cut and fitted to the spline; This build should go pretty quickly since I'm sequestered at home and can really focus. Next steps are to cut notches into the corners of the cross members and add strips to the frame for added gluing surface. Thanks for looking.
  4. 10 points
    Everyday we have quotes posted in our local paper that were overheard in public. Sometimes there just cute things but most of the time they are pretty funny and in this case fitting to the times.
  5. 10 points
    Feather-board saved me from a pretty nasty kickback tonight. Was re-sawing a freshly jointed piece of ash, and "wham", the work piece tried to raise up and fly back at me. Luckily, I was using a feather-board (and standing off to the left). No damage done. USE YOUR FEATHER-BOARDS! .
  6. 10 points
    Wishing a very happy 47th anniversary to our friend and one of the most respected and talented people on this forum Ken and his lovely wife Sharon, way to go you two!! And i think a wedding picture or two wouldn't hurt right? remember, pictures or it didn't happen enjoy your day together!
  7. 10 points
    Went to the upholstery shop today and it was a happy day for me. Very pleased with how it came out, but there are a few tweaks I'd likely do, I touch on those at the end. First the good stuff. My upholstery guy loved the chair and really liked the way it sat. He said it was a pleasure to do and is excited to do more work for me. I decided on a textured fabric that was a lighter green, super happy how that looks. I always have thought green goes well with walnut. So here are the pics; Here's the chair with a side table I built to go with it; Here are a few pics of the side table; The side table was also a fun little project I found from a picture in a Danish Modern Furniture book. My wife thinks it looks like a spider. So a recap. First, I too think the chair sits well, but with my wife, the height of the chair and the depth of the seat make it hard for her to touch the ground with her feet. So I think it could actually be shorter in the legs. The seat was only 16.5 inches off the ground but the thick cushioning elevates it considerably. Second, I would like the angle of the seat to the floor to be increased slightly, it's nice now but I'd still increase it and I think it would make it even more comfortable. Thirdly, I'd like the back rest to be about 4 inches higher, doing the 2 things above and keeping the overall height of the chair as is would naturally make a longer back rest, and from there I'd probably need to add another inch or two. So overall I'm happy with it and love the way it turned out, but I would like to tweak the next one. Thanks for looking!
  8. 10 points
    Here's a sign in a liquor store in Red Deer, AB. These guys have the right idea
  9. 9 points
    Honestly, I find myself fighting off a bit of depression. The Illinois Governor issued a Stay at Home order taking effect today. It actually doesn't change things for me and my wife, we were already staying at home, but let's just say it's the thought that counts. I would like to say that I'm getting more shop time, but being retired I was already in the shop as much as I wanted to be. I am working on a project that is taking shape, so there's that. I have plenty of wood for the next idea, too. The wife has gotten somewhat creative, last night she made me eat a pea omelette. It wasn't actually all that bad, but still. And she's decided that we should deep clean the entire house, one room each day. And I checked, she does not consider the workshop one of the "rooms in the house".
  10. 9 points
    This is a twist on the normal product review. It is a review of plans instead of a finished product. I, for one, would be interested in seeing more of this type of review. There are tons of plans available for purchase or download on the internet. I finally put the finishing touches on my miter saw workstation that I started last year. It is based on the Woodworker's Journal Ultimate Miter Saw Stand plan available from Rockler or the magazine site. Here is a picture of the miter saw stand from the original plan. I made some changes to better suit my needs but before we get to that let's look at what the plan offers. The plan appears to be a pdf of a magazine article published in June 2010 Woodworker's Journal. It's 10 pages and includes a materials list and a cutting diagram for the plywood sheets and the hardwood trim. The plan, as originally drawn includes some shop made storage bins, a shop made fence using Kreg track and stops, and includes some dust collection features. The main idea of the dust collection is to use an ivac switch to turn on a shop vac hidden away in the center section. It's a good idea and would help muffle the noise of the shop vac. The downside is you would dedicate a shop vac to the miter saw. Another feature is the way the saw mounts. It has a center section that can be built to the appropriate height for any saw. If you ever change saws all you have to do is modify or rebuild this piece. The saw mount is also adjustable front to back to align with the fence if you add a zero clearance fence to the saw. The author, Chris Marshall, gives a step by step walk through of cutting and assembling the case pieces. Construction is a combination of dados and butt joints for the case and pocket screws for the face frame. The hardwood edging is attached with biscuits. It's complicated enough that I would not consider it a beginner project. It would certainly be a great skill building project for someone who has built a few projects and wants to practice some new techniques on shop furniture. Anyone who takes their time and follows along will end up with a nice miter saw station. The optional storage bins are put together with dovetails and this is really the only area in the plans that is not well documented. Builders who do not have any experience with a dovetail jig or hand cut dovetails would be stuck. For what it is it would have been better to instruct the builder to use butt joints or some sort of table saw joinery. Overall I would rate the plans highly. The instructions are thorough, except the bins, and you are walked through all the steps in the proper sequence. When I first ran across this plan I knew it was very close to what I had been looking for. The Craftsman saw in the picture is just like mine so it was meant to be. The first thing I did after getting my hands on the plans was to change a couple of things. The spacing for the top section was 6". I wanted to use Harbor Freight storage bins which are just over 6". As a side note, I have a bunch of these bins for my shelves and find them useful for all sorts of things. I drew the plans in sketchup changing the top section to 6 1/2" and adjusted the lower dividers 1/4" closer in each section. Otherwise I built the carcass as shown. I also built the saw mount as shown. The carcass is maple ply from Lowes stained with walnut danish oil. Everything is top coated with satin poly. I deleted the holes and baffle for dust collection. The workstation is on wheels and I planned to just leave it a few inches from the wall with dust collection pipe behind. I also did not plan to dedicate a vac to the saw and left the center section open for a cutoff bin. Instead of open shelves on the side sections I built large drawers. This allows more flexibility with the storage and using full extension slides I can get to stuff in the back. I made frame and panel drawer fronts from walnut and 1/4" maple ply. I changed the wheel arrangement. The plan called for 6 swivel casters. I put fixed casters in the middle making the unit steerable. I thought this would be easier to move around and I think it is. What I didn't consider is with the wheels in the center it swings on both ends which makes it a little harder to snug up to a wall. The final change is a nod to Marc's miter saw station. I ditched the top fence and just embedded track for stop blocks. I have always hated the idea of tying up all that flat surface with a fence. I need as much dual purpose space as possible. I can just slide off the stop blocks and I have two 25" x 35" work tables when needed. This extra space is very handy. Here are a few pictures of the finished product. First the overall workstation. Here is the adjustable saw mount A shot of the smaller drawer fully open and the harbor freight bins. I put a chamfer on the drawer edges. I like simple details. I spend a lot of time in the shop so I like for it to be nice.
  11. 9 points
    Last February I build my wife a new sewing table. I took me about 3 weeks to build. It was made from pre-finished Birch plywood. all of the edges where banded with iron on birch edge banding except the top. the top was not banded so the edge could be round over an sanded to 800 grit to prevent them from snagging on the fabric. the biggest challenge was building it so it can be taken apart to get it in to the room and out again when we move.. Some of the features. on casters for easy movement 3 position sewing machine lift A/C & USB power on the top 15" full length flip up top extension on the out feed side of the top slide out tread organizer 18" X 18" front extension wing 4 storage drawer storage for the front extension wing and and her acrylic Steady Sew extension table. This weekend I built her an new cabinet for her serger to match he sewing table. This one is also pre-finished birch plywood but his time I mad 1/4 solid birch edge molding. Some of the features: Machine lift - This one is actually a mixer lift for ta kitchen cabinet. 2 -16" flip up side wings. 2 adjustable shelves. Both haves of the cabinet are the same size so I drilled shelf pin location and pilot holes for the lift in both side in case she ever want to switch it around.
  12. 9 points
    Went to the Lost Trades Fair today. It’s a collection of lost trades. Some really interesting stuff going on. I bought a piece of Gidgee for a knife handle that I’m working on. It’s like a piece of steel. Some Windsor chair demos, blacksmiths, leather workers and more.
  13. 9 points
    Got new 1000, 4000, 8000 and 16,000 Shapton glass stones and a LN honing guide. I put fresh bevels and honed edges on all my LN chisels, plane irons and a spokeshave. I had my 60 ½ at school last week and one of my students had one there just like, but his was freshly honed to 30,000. He looked at mine (sorely needing sharpening) and said he was taking it home and would bring it back next class. What a pleasure to use. I just couldn't justify the price of a 30,000 grit stone. Also did a quick V Carve inlay for a small box I'm making for the CNC class. And another one of these for one of the electricians who so graciously felt sorry for the old man trying to unload and set the bandsaw I got last summer and gave me a hand.
  14. 8 points
    I fixed this: Fine woodworking & attention to detail
  15. 8 points
    So where I left off with this project I was gluing up the "rails", or the sides of the board. If you remember I added 2 strips the length of the board, staggering them and then connected them with a third and larger strip. So now that the glue ups are finally over, it's on to shaping. And believe me i'm glad the glue ups are over! So for shaping I'll use primarily just a few tools, the RAS doing the bulk reduction, rasp refining the shape, and a sander with an interface pad on to smooth; With the RAS I can get the shape pretty close, here's a pic of a small section of rail where the RAS still has some reduction left to do, but you can see how well it's done on either side of the unreduced area, you can also see the 3 distinct strips and how they are staggered, or stepped; Here we are with the RAS work completed and if you look closely the outline is not perfectly smooth. The rasp work will fix that; Now here are some pics after sanding, you will see 3 different results, first in this pic you can barely tell where the 3 strips begin and end; in this pic you can see the strips but the joint looks tight; In this pic I didn't get the joint closed up as well as I would have liked and you can see a very pronounced glue line; Now I'm not happy about that last pic, but the glassing and epoxy will take care of that. In the boards I've done, I've found it's very hard to close down every joint the whole length of the joint when you are curving and bending long strips into place. You just never seem to have enough clamps. Finally here are a few pics of the final shaped board; What's next is, glassing, adding the fins, vents and handle, then a final coat of epoxy. Oh, and then I need to make a paddle, or paddles rather. Thanks for looking.
  16. 8 points
    Doing good, just finished this up today.
  17. 8 points
    I havent updated this in a while, but much progress has been made due to being shutdown. I am fortunate in the fact that I can work from home, counting my lucky stars on that. With no commute and no where to go, shop time has increased significantly. Leg vise has been fitted, tested and completed Base is complete. Laid out mortise locations for the slabs yesterday and hope to cut those this afternoon.
  18. 8 points
    I've had this build on my to do list for a while and I put it off, and now I remember why, because there are so many glueups. I've already been through two 16 oz bottles of TB III. So @Chip Sawdust is right, this does seem to be going slow. But I have made progress so here's the update. Top deck is done so it was on to the bottom deck. This glue up is a little more tricky since the top deck prevents getting good clamping pressure onto the ribs. So some creative clamping did the trick. Center board is the first to be glued; And working my way out from there; Once I got most of the lower deck glued up I wanted to get the nose boards put on. Started with cleaning up the front of the board. Before cleanup; After cleanup; So now that I have a nice surface to glue to I started with adding my boards. In this pic you can see I was able to tie my clamps into the board frame where I had not yet put my decking on. This worked out great and I don't think I could have done this as effectively if all my decking was in place. Also I left the first boards very proud of the deck. I used this lip to glue on successive boards. So then it was a matter of glue up after glueup, alternating 8 boards. Here's the end result with some rough shaping to get the nose boards flush with the deck; Next a little rough shaping of the nose. Really like as I shape and round the front that the light color paulownia peeks out from the cedar; Now on to the sides. First I need to flush up the deck and the frame and make the top deck even with the bottom deck; Now that I have a nice surface to glue too I start adding strips; In this pic you can see I'm adding a second strip to the first strip. After getting two strips added to the top and bottom I'll "connect" the top to the bottom with 1 last strip, then it will be all closed up. And finally, here's how the tail is shaping up; So I have got a lot done but it does feel like slow going. I can get a couple glue ups done, then I need to wait a few hrs before moving on. So in between glue ups I've been working in my yard. Just redid my garden beds. So I have been productive in more ways then one; Thanks for looking.
  19. 8 points
    Visiting my Mother today, at her Assisted Living place. Her 104th Birthday will be April 18th. She was two when she lost family members to the 1918 pandemic. We were after them to stop letting visitors in 3 weeks ago, when we first starting self-isolating ourselves. They did start not allowing visitors for the past couple of weeks. Fortunately, the whole place is on ground level. We kept our distance, and had a nice visit. She's still completely clear headed, and says we just have to do what we need to. She opened her windows, so we could talk through the screen.
  20. 8 points
    Quick update on the SUP. Last post of progress was on Tues, and I haven't moved as fast as I was hoping. Partly because we've had some nice weather and work on my garden/yard/house pulled me out of the shop. But that's ok, I'm still moving forward and the amount of glueups has been tedious. After finishing the top decking I began prep for adding the lower decking and for "closing" up the board. I have a few things that need to be done internally before adding the bottom deck. First is added glue strips to the plywood framework, a real long process. Here are my strips prior to sizing, and in the end I used all these; Gluing up to the plywood framework, glue to the center and to the cross pieces; Next I need to make sure that all the chambers of the board are connected for even air pressure. Some simply holes placed in the center support; And some notches in the cross pieces. These notches allow not only air flow but also can act as drain knotches in case water gets in the board, not that I plan that to happen; And here's the board woth the ribs glued on and all ready for the deck; Couple other things to point out. Blocking for leash cup and air vent. I'll be using an combination device fitted with a goretex membrane. This membrane prevents water for coming in but allows air to escape. The hole in the block will be centered at the bottom of the larger hole I'll drill into the top of the board to insert the leash cup/vent; Next, I prepped the back and front of the board for blocking the will form the nose and tail. Here's the tail; Here's the nose; Finally, got the fin finallized, First cut out; Next mark the midline; Then shaped/feathered both edges down to that line, this is called the foil for the fin; So the next steps will be leveling the supports, alittle work on blocks for the nose, and the adding the bottom deck. Thanks for looking!
  21. 8 points
    New tool acquisition day: Lumber runs have never been sweeter!
  22. 8 points
    OK, photo overload time! This is how I make leveling feet: With the base disk assembled, I tested out the "ballast" retention bolt: One more dry fit, just to be certain.... Now comes the most nervous moment of the project, preparing for glue! Whew! It went together OK. Lots of clear packing tape involved, keeping the staves together. Hhhmmm....pretty sure I didn't starve any joints! While that dried, I worked on edge-profiling the disks for the table top. The upper disk (oak), gets an edge like this: Which I made on the tablesaw, using my Spin-a-ma-jig (c) and the outer plates of my dado stack (for rigidity). The cherry disk gets a bull-nose profile. My router bit has no bearing, and using an edge guide won't work, since the bit cuts away the entire surface of the edge, which would lead to a never-ending spiral toward the center of the circle. This is why the Spin-a-ma-jig was conceived, since even a standard router circle jig is problematic to use when the bit can't be plunged across the edge. For these large disks, I added some temporary bracing to stiffen the jig a bit: And finally, the completed profile will look something like this: I had some issues with splintering on the cherry, which required me to cut another pass. Good thing I started with it over-sized! Anyway, now I need to reduce the diameter of the oak disk a bit, but I ran out of time. Stay tuned, more is soon to come!
  23. 8 points
    My niece is getting married at the end of March, the entry hall table she asked for is completed, and in a couple of days it will head off to Sydney. This is the model for the table she wanted me to build, but to build it in Jarrah ... I needed to make a few modifications. The most notable were, firstly, that there are three drawers, where the model has two. With a little research, it became evident that the model was a "flat pack" build from a store in the UK, and it used slides and poppers for the drawers. Without slides, wide drawers will rack since the depth-to-width ratio is all wrong. Three drawers change this ratio and make it workable. Secondly, building a drawer to ride wood-on-wood, one cannot use poppers - and so drawer handles are necessary. My niece was keen that drawer handles would not be seen, and I have done my best to make them unobtrusive. Together with the desire to avoid drawer handles, there was also the request to make the drawers appear to be a single piece, rather than drawers separated by drawer dividers. The fact is, we had to have drawer dividers. So, to hide them, drawer fronts were given lips, with a lip covering half the width of a divider. In this way, the dividers could double as drawer stops. Making lipped, half-blind dovetails was a first for me. In the end, they were not too bad. The case of the original table is mitred, and this is likely butt jointed and supported with either dowels, biscuits or dominos. My choice was to use mitred through dovetails, both for their strength and also for aesthetics. Although I have done a number of similar cases in recent years, this joint is one where you hold your breath until it all comes together. Then you wonder what the fuss was about A fifth change was the attachment of the legs. The model likely used a metal screw per leg, which was common with Mid Century furniture. I wanted something stronger and durable so, in place of this, my decision was to stake the legs into a thicker base, which was firmly attached to the underside of the case with tapered, stopped sliding dovetails. A bit more work, but I will sleep better at night. At the end of the day, it resembles a box, and only a woodworker will recognise that it is a very complex box. Okay, here it is. It is photographed in my entrance hall .... The wood is fiddleback (curly) Jarrah. A close up the waterfall on one side ... ... and on the other ... The obligatory dovetail shot ... Those drawers! The lipped drawer fronts are 20mm, with the drawer sides 1/4". The back is 15mm thick. The thin sides necessitated drawer slips. These were beaded to create a transition from slip to drawer bottom. The drawer bottoms are 1/4". The wood used here is Tasmanian Oak. Since the case and internals are build from hard Jarrah, the underside of the slips was given a Jarrah slide to improve ware properties. As mentioned earlier, the aim was to present a single board at the front ... Here may be seen how the lips share the drawer divider and use it as a drawer stop. The spacers at the side of the case are half the width of the dividers as they do not share two drawers. Now those drawer handles ... I tried to keep the design as simple as possible, and used the same wood as the drawer fronts so they would blend in. The upper drawer shows the finger grip on underside of the handle ... Drawer extension is good - about 80-85 percent ... The internal bevels around the case ... ... maintained a straight edge to the drawer line. Plus the gap between the drawers (about 0.5mm) ... Near-to-last, the case back: this is made from the same Jarrah - one never knows if the piece will end up against a wall or out in the open. Someone will ask if the brass screws were clocked ... of course they were! And a final photo to provide some scale. This is taken with a chair I built a few years ago ... Thanks for coming along for the ride. Regards from Perth Derek
  24. 8 points
    The build is nearing the conclusion. The drawers, case back, and finish to do. Here, the drawers are continued. The focus of this article is on fitting the drawer (with lipped sides), and the fixtures that are used in the course of this process. We ended the last build session with the drawer parts made ... ... and the lipped drawer fronts completed ... First task today was to plane the groove for the drawer fronts .. The drawer sides and drawer back were dovetailed ... simple through dovetails. The notable feature here is that space is left for the drawer slip (which replaces the drawer groove as the drawer sides are 1/4" thick). Of interest may be the bench hook I use. I suspect that some may look at this and wonder why I am butchering it by chopping on its top .. Well, it is just scrap, and took about 5 minutes to make. So far this one has lasted about 3 months. I should get a few more out of it. Not only is it used for chopping, but also sawing ... ... and even shooting ... One of the issues with a lipped front is that it cannot be planed to fit after glue up. So, there are lots of dry fitting, and the sides are planed individually. This planing stop is invaluable for thin boards ... There is non-slip in the form of Crubber on the face of the stop ... When fitted together, any raised pins need to be pared level. Here, the drawer is captured in a fixture (essentially, two pieces of ply, each with a cut out). The pins are pared with the newly-released Veritas flushing chisels ... I've had a pre-production set for a couple of years. This is what a prototype handle looks like ... Veritas now supply this in a nice wooden handle. The one I am using is a design of my own, ala a Japanese slick .. Fitting the drawers also required positioning and glueing the drawer dividers. These also act as drawer stops ... This is the drawer divider in position ... It is slid back ... The first third of the dado receives glue ... The drawer is replaced and positioned .. And then the drawer divider is slid up against the rear of the lip .. The drawer case is fine-tuned with the LN Rabbet Block Plane ... This is used to smooth over any irregularities in the side walls and, where necessary, to plane away any fat ... The drawers are in the process of being glued up. Drawer #3 cannot be glued up until a brass plate is recessed into one side. T Marked out, the waste routed, and then chiselled along the circumference ... The drawer fronts are planed ... Another dry assembly and check for fit ... If there is any resistance to the drawer being pushed in-and-out, I test fit it from the rear. This shows whether the drawer or case needs some planing. Looking good here, as it goes right in ... There is good drawer extension (about 80%) ... The drawers are now glued up. Lastly, for the day, the slips are attached. These began like this, grooved and beaded ... A Jarrah runner is added below. The upper section of the slip is, as with the drawer sides and drawer bottoms, made from Tasmanian Oak. This is similar to US White Oak in hardness and wear. Since the drawers run on Jarrah, the wear properties are improved with the Jarrah wear section ... Tomorrow should see the conclusion of the build. Regards from Perth Derek
  25. 7 points
    In the UK all the bars, theatres, cinemas, gyms, music venues, restaurants, schools, colleges and universities amongst many other establishments have been told to close. The government is supporting people by paying up to 80% of lost earnings, salaries etc which is good, for those people unable to work due to their businesses being forced to close. We are practicing what is called “ social distancing” a phrase that was unknown to us until last week. Essentially keeping a distance of 6 to 8 feet away from others when passing them in the street. My parents are self isolating as they are in their 80s and in a high risk group. Airports are scaling back and our local airport at Manchester has closed 2 of its three terminals due to vast reduction in air travel. My wife and I are ok but she has had lots of her activities curtailed, art class cancelled, amateur theatre cancelled, singing group cancelled, bookclub cancelled, swimming cancelled, People are panic buying and supermarkets are struggling keeping up stocking the shelves despite there being plenty of food in the system. From speaking to colleagues who work in other countries it appears to be also happening there too. I have a dodgy knee and two dodgy hips so am struggling to do any woodworking but am finishing off a coffee table piece for my friends 60th birthday. I also work from home and have done for years so am still able to buy lumber and tools . The selfish attitude of a few younger people in this country seems to be “it doesn’t affect my age group and I am invulnerable”. How wrong that is as everybody can get it and become a carrier to infect older people (like their grandparents) who are more likely to succumb to the virus. Stay safe everybody in these unusual and unprecedented times.
  26. 7 points
    Got this so it's ready for finish. Vanity for a friend.
  27. 7 points
  28. 7 points
  29. 7 points
    Sigh..........if only it was curly QSWO. How you been Spanky?
  30. 7 points
    Proud to see the company I retired from pitching in. For some reason the link would not import, so here's a screenshot.
  31. 7 points
    That's called the 'farmer blow' and I use the technique while running. Sometimes with less than satisfactory results. It can be a dangerous tactic. My wife does NOT approve of it when I'm using the treadmill.
  32. 7 points
    Yes, I purchased a plan from WoodSurfboardPlans.com. They send you a link to print out the patterns and the instructions. I've made other surf boards from this site, so I've learned a lot through that process. This build is much easier because of those other builds. Here are the pics of the other boards I did; Long Board; Short Fish with deep swallow tail;
  33. 7 points
    Chugging along. My last post I outlined I needed to level the frame and ribs. Well I started doing that with some selective rasping and then made a sanding board. Simply a piece of poplar with 120 adhesive paper adde to it; That did the trick fairly quickly. Next I started adding the top deck. As I told @Coop in another post, since the SUP is 11' long, I don't have stock that long. So where I need to join two pieces I did a simple butt joint with a reinforcing piece glued to the underside; After multiple tedious glueups I could finally see some progress. Herre's one of my glue ups, looks like a clamp party; While I was waiting for glue to dry, I glued up a panel for my fin; And after what seemed like endless glueups here's the top deck; Still need to clean up the sides, but I'll likely do that after the bottom deck is added; I'll clean up the top and then flip it over and start my bottom deck glueup. Things are going well and so far so good. Thanks for looking!
  34. 7 points
    I'm waiting for: Keep Calm and Carry Out. Terry, now that the UK has joined so many others, folks may find this useful:
  35. 7 points
  36. 7 points
    So for the second installment of this build I've done a ton of prep work and glue ups. I'm preparing the frame for the glue up of the deck, or "skin". Things needed to be completed were first notching the corners of the cross pieces. The notch is 3/8" x3/8" and a rib will be glued into this notch. Also I'm gluing small paulownia strips to the plywood frame to help with the glue up of the ribs and the skin. Here's what those 2 steps look like; Next I placed some blocking pieces to support the handle. Again, using paulownia; Once those steps were done, I milled some 3/8 x 3/8 paulownia strips to use for the ribs. Glue up took 2 rounds, 1 round per side. Now things are starting to take shape; Since this board is 11' long, I did not have stock that long, so i joined 2 strips at a place were the rib is fairly straight; Also, some small kerf cuts were placed in the rib to help with bending. Paulownia bends very nicely and is remarkably strong. I could have made this bend with out the kerfs, but without the kerfs there was a lot of torque and pressure on the frame. The frame becomes much more stable once the ribs are glued on so the kerfs help the unstable frame maintain it's proper shape; While the glue was drying, i started milling up my paulownia. This wood was milled from trees on my property and air dried by me. It looks pretty ugly in rough form; But cleans up nicely; So what's on tap today is to sand and level the frame. You can see in this pic that not everything is perfectly flush. Some sanding/rasping/ and shaping will fix this; So once the frame and all it's pieces are flush I'll start adding the skin. I'll be using paulownia and red cedar, milled to 5/16" thick. Also, because I'm sure you may be wondering, I'm using TB III for the glue up. Thanks for looking.
  37. 7 points
    Hey friends....since the baby was born, I have been chipping away bit by bit. Finally got the base together. I originally planned on the knockdown, but once I got through the directions and it told me I had to remake the front rail, I abandoned that course and went with the pegs. Here’s where we are today:
  38. 7 points
    Got a chuckle watching this...
  39. 7 points
    This guy is hoarding a whole truck load of TP
  40. 7 points
    Entry way bench and matching cubby for above it. Some walnut from an estate sale. Took a shortcut with the bench and just did pocket hole assembly. I did some hand work smoothing the top and edges with the 62 & 060 1/2.
  41. 7 points
    " I would rather have ammo in times of no toilet paper instead of toilet paper in times of no ammo"
  42. 7 points
    I bought a thing. Then something fell over. Not sure how this happened....
  43. 6 points
    Outdoor movie night. Burned my chair templates. They were taking up too much room.
  44. 6 points
    If you see two images, it's 'cause I pasted one and drag/dropped the other. If you see none, I don't know WHAT is going on. I see it just fine.
  45. 6 points
    Some people over here are saying "It's Mother Nature's way of sending all humans to their rooms to seriously think about what they have done to the planet"
  46. 6 points
    Hey all, Been lurking here for some time now and have to say, this community is really awesome and has helped me immensely on my projects. Figured with being stuck at home for the foreseeable future, now is as good a time as ever to introduce myself. I was born and raised in Arizona and despite moving away a few times, seem to always find my way back home. My dad was a woodworker, so I’ve been exposed to it my entire life. I learned quite a bit just watching him as a kid. Then college and life happened, and I didn’t pick up a board for many years. When he passed away, I put his tools in storage with the idea that I’d pick it up when I had the space and time. About two years ago we finally bought a house and I set up his old craftsman contractor saw, Rockwell drill press, craftsman RAS, Makita jointer/planer, etc. in the garage... As I’m sure many can relate, I was hooked from day 1 and haven’t looked back. I pretty much spend all my free time in the shop; not as much since my daughter was born but I still make it work. I’ve done a few guild projects so far, the latest being a modified version of the miter saw station (minus the miter saw, which still lives on my garage floor), and right now I’m close to finishing up a split top roubo. I’ve been getting more and more interested in chair building recently and am gearing up to do Marc’s dining chair build (probably in conjunction with some iteration of Phil Morley’s table) and afterwards, hopefully, a sculpted rocker. Really have learned a ton from following the bmac, chestnut, etc chair and rocker builds... awesome stuff. Always look forward to logging on and seeing ya’lls progress on projects and general banter, and looking forward to what the future brings.
  47. 6 points
    So, the last component I needed to make is a trim ring that slips over the pedestal, sliding to the bottom to cover any gap at uneven floor. It is made of cherry to add another splash of color. I started by cutting some segments and making rings. The same angle-finding process from making he pedestal works for this as well, and I cut the pieces using an angled stop on my TS sled. Hoops in the works: Once the glue was dry on the rings, I stacked them together to form a taller "bricked" ring: A wide drum sander would be useful for this. The individual rings were not perfectly flat, which resulted in a couple of cracked joints when I clamped the sandwich together. Since the glue between the rings holds everything solidly, I left the cracks to be filled with sawdust and glue later. Time to warm up the 'Spin-a-ma-jig' again! The cross bar is attacked to the bottom of the ring so the screw holes won't show. Then to position it on the saw... Approach angle to the blade determines how much profile is given to the cut edge. For this piece, I wanted a bit of flare at the bottom, so the ring was located so that the side against the table met the blade just behind where the teeth plunge below the throat plate with the blade fully raised. Moving the work more toward the center of the blade makes a straighter cut, pulling back makes more flare. Voila! A flared circle cut on the tablesaw. The more observant among you might notice the obvious glue lines between my "bricks" . Apparently, the small drafting square I use to check the perpendicularity of blade to table isn't large enough to properly register past the throat plate and onto the table. My plate had some dust under it, giving me a false positive check. Fortunately, this ring goes on the floor, under a table. I doubt anyone will ever notice, especially after I give it the dark red color treatment, so I'm not going to do it over. Next, I need to round out the inside of the ring, but I ran out of time this morning. Stay tuned for the exciting conclusion!
  48. 6 points
    I’ve realized my lifestyle has a name; self quarantine.
  49. 6 points
    I hear you can get good deals on cruises right now. Buy 1 week cruise get 2 weeks for free
  50. 6 points
    This is the last part of the build - completing of the drawer bottoms and pulls. A panel was prepared some weeks ago. 1/4" thick Tasmanian Oak. This was made up of two, book matched boards. Blue tape was used to pull the jointed edges together. Clamps are unnecessary for this task ... Measure off the full width of the drawer bottom from inside the slips ... Of possible interest is the work holding for the drawer bottom ... The bench dogs on each side were made from sections of unhardened O1 steel, and filed into teeth. Another heads-up is the arm for this cutting guard. Some while back, Veritas brought out a gauge with a fine adjuster. They now sell the arms to upgrade existing gauges, which is what I have done here to a wheel gauge I made ... Here the tongue is marked (about 4mm). This will fit into the groove in the slip. The thickness of the tongue is marked (3mm). The tongue is planed ... The fit is tested with a spare slip ... The bottom was about 1mm too wide to fit. A LN edge was perfect to re-joint one side ... Re-establish the tongue with a shoulder plane ... Slide the bottom in. At this time it is just a dry fit. The front, which remains 1/4" thick to fit to 1/4" groove at the rear of the drawer front, is not yet pushed home. The front groove will hold the one end firmly, allowing movement towards the rear of the drawer. The drawers require pulls. The aim is to make the pulls "vanish" as much as possible. To do this, the shape is kept simple, and the wood is a section from the drawer fronts. Here it is being planed to 1/4" thickness. Set up to make the pulls ... A 10mm wide rebate is planed on both sides. This will be completed on the reverse side as well, to create a tenon 3mm thick. Four sections are marked off for the pulls (only three are needed) .. A router is used to create dimples for a finger grip on the underside of the pull (three were needed and were good here; one could be tossed) ... The outlines are cut out ... The router is again used, this time to create a 3mm x 50mm mortice in the drawer fronts for the pulls ... The final section of the build is the drawer back. I decided to use Jarrah to match the rest - one never knows whether the hall table will become a room divider. The newly-purchased JessEm Clear-Cut TS Stock Guides make a clean, accurate rip that much easier ... The next post will show the completed hall table. Regards from Perth Derek