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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/15/19 in all areas

  1. 11 points
    My wife requested a side table for the family room. This will be situated between two arm chairs, and replace the small table (which is too high and dominating) ... Not just a side table, but it also needed to house her needlework thingies. In other words, shallow drawers for cotton reels and sewing kit. I played around with several ideas, and eventually came up with a design that borrows a little from a piece I recently made. Lynndy liked the softness of the rounded dovetails and overall dimension of this coffee table I built some months back for a nephew ... The plan (looking down) would be to create a curved front and back, with round, splayed legs to the outside (an alternative is a straight, tapered round leg) ... In contrast to the Jarrah in that piece, the carcase will be built in Hard Maple, dovetailed and mitred at each corner. It will feature 8 drawers. All drawer fronts will curve as well. The reason for "Harlequin" in the title is that the drawers will be a mix of woods, as depicted in the elevation of the drawer section ... A harlequin design is often thought of as a diamond pattern, but does also include a rectangular checkerboard. Anyway, it's just a name, and I like giving my pieces a name At this stage I have chosen for the drawer fronts Black Walnut and Blue Gum. I may also add in Hard Maple. Always interested in your thoughts here. The Blue Gum is lighter than the Black Walnut and is a good foil against the Hard Maple … The legs will taper and curve from the carcase, attached with a loose mortice and tenon ... The sides and top were arranged so that the grain flowed continuously. The carcase is 20mm thick, 800mm long and 350 at the wide, centre point .. The initial dovetail plan was to keep the boards parallel and saw the curves later. It became apparent when joining the first set that this would not work ... .. there would be too much at the sides to mitre, and so I decided to shape the top and bottom panels at this stage rather than later. This was the first opportunity to use the modification I made to my Moxon vise (see article: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/NewMoxonMods.html). It now enables the pin- and tail boards to be clamped together to aid in marking out (see earlier photo). In marking out for mitred corners, the side tails are not sawn out from the front ... ... the board is reversed, and the mitres are marked ... ... and sawn ... The reason I had wanted to retain square carcase sides was that it would make it easier to square the chisel guide for the mitres. I got around this by squaring them to the front of the carcase ... The pin board is seen here ... One of the difficulties in fitting this many tails and pins is that any slight errors are magnified. The fit below illustrates that the left side is too tight ... To deal with this, the tails were given a pencil scribbling ... Fitting the board together left this behind ... This process needed to be done once more, before the fit was satisfactory ... The four sides were dry fitted together, and the front and rear upper and lower panels planed to shape (this was close but not enough) … All is coplanar … Where we are up to at the end of today … One set of mitred corners … … and the other … Next up is building the internal dividers for the drawers. Regards from Perth Derek
  2. 11 points
    Progress! I've applied finish (ARS) and mounted the doors. The doors aren't perfect by any means. I screwed up when gluing up the outer doors. I didn't follow Matt's advice to use the main cabinet as a template for gluing the doors to ensure consistent geometry. I simply forgot to do it in my rush to get them glued up. The end result is that outer doors are slightly out of square relative to the inner doors and main cabinet. Having said that, they hang and swing nicely, so overall I'm happy. As well my drawers are recycled from a previous project, so they don't fit exactly, but are fully functional. I still have to make all the tool holders, but at least it's on the wall now...
  3. 10 points
    I finally decided to build a miter station. Despite not really having room for one, I realized I can't afford to go without the storage it provides. I have so much stuff that it's just impossible to stay organized and clean. I started this a couple of months ago, after my somewhat traditional winter break from the shop (I still have a project in limbo that I started in November as well!) I really couldn't see a way to get a full 8' to the left, but I rarely need to cut anything like that anyway so I went with 6' to the left and 2' to the right. I am using a lot of what Marc did in his miter station guild project, but didn't really follow his cabinet techniques. I also consider this a primer for making my desk and maybe some kitchen cabinets. I got a lot of mistakes out of the way on this project so hopefully future ones will go smoothly. One problem I ran into is that I bought the plywood 2 weeks apart. So they ended up not being the same size. Also I forgot to trim the cabinet stock to consistent size at the table saw after breaking them down with the track saw. As a result, my first cabinet was 1/8" out of square. The next 3 ended up perfect though. You can see the saw that I bought in February and still haven't even plugged in. It gets moved from spot to spot as I work on this project. Bought out the stock of all Home Depots drawer slides, then Lowes as well. I wanted good slides, but not top of the line. I paid around $20 per set. They aren't self close, but that is ok. Not sure it needs to be My tops are 2 doubled up sheets of plywood with a layer of hardboard so it's nice and smooth. Just a preference really, no real reason for it to be that way. Used brad nails to act as clamps (because I just had to use my new California Air Tools compressor that I got that same day - that thing rocks) Drawer stock, not very exciting. Very few of my drawers were the same size. Part of that is just inexperience in making drawers. One cabinet in particular I wanted difference sizes for different kinds of tools though. This is only about 1/2 the drawers, as I just don't have room to build more than 8 drawers at once. Top together without the trim, drawer boxes installed in a couple of cases.You can see the inconsistency in my spacing there. Some of the drawers I ended up moved when I wasn't satisfied with how they looked. Oh and in the background you can see my foam board that I cut the cabinet plywood on. As I was cutting the last piece, the wind caught the foam board and made it explode into four pieces. Almost like it shattered. I guess that foam was end of life anyway. False front stock. I ended up using true Uncle Cletus wood. I bought a couple of 14" wide, 11' long 8/4 walnut boards from a local guy 3 years ago. The plan was to use them for my desk. Unfortunately they were just too warped for any pieces longer than a few feet, so I used them for this. Here is an example of how bad these boards were. In some cases I couldn't even get 3/4" First false front in Learned a lot of valuable lessons here. I'm not confident in my cabinet squareness or my ability to cut the drawer fronts to perfect width. So I went long on every one of them. Figured I'd just trim them magically to be flush. In fact I bought the Festool RO90 to help with this, but truthfully it didn't prove to be incredibly effective on walnut end grain. As a result I built a shooting board and will try that later. I definitely made some alignment mistakes. This one I held it in place and put brads in it, and it had shifted. So I glued a piece on to the short side that clearly doesn't match. It's shop furniture. If it was for my house I'd have found matching grain or pulled the front off and fixed it. It went smoother after that. I tried to replicate what Marc did by putting the fronts on while the cabinets are laying on their back. When I tipped them back up right, the spacing was off on all of them because there is a little bit of travel in the up and down motion of the slides. So I pulled them all off and did it with the cabinet right side up. However, since they were measured, cut and positioned to the laying down orientation, to get the right gaps between drawers I ended up with the fronts being screwy. In some places they were just a hair lower than the drawer box. Also I forgot that my drawers were all different sizes on the other cabinets and didn't change the template to match. So I ended up using wood filler to fix errant drawer pull holes. This is the one I finished up today, it went great. And it was actually an accident that the bottom two drawers are bookmatched, and the top drawer was cut from the exact same board as the 2nd drawer so it has grain continuity. Obviously the top wasn't big enough so I had to glue up another board. I did a horrible job with grain matching. But again - shop furniture. I still have a bit to do, but I'm really really hoping to get these done on this long weekend.
  4. 9 points
    The move is done. Here it is in its new happy home. Now I'm just waiting on my electrician. That'll probably be next week. The movers basically just carried the thing up the stairs one step at a time. And the blurred photos are not to hide their identities, these guys were really fast and efficient. Now to put it together and do some shop re-arranging.
  5. 8 points
    Finally got it off the lathe and sprayed with varnish.
  6. 7 points
    I have had these sanding blocks for about six months and I have had time to use them on a number of different projects. With ROS sanders and such now a days you don't need sanding blocks as much as in the past but when the occasion arises I am happy I have these. They hold a 1/4 sheet of sanding paper and a nice feature of this particular block is that it will hold multiple pieces, so you can cut the sheet up into fourths stake them up and clamp them all in the block at the same time. When the sand paper is worn you just tear it off and continue on with your work. They come in four colors which makes it possible to use a different color for each grit. The pad is firm so you can work close to the edge of things with out rounding the corners. I find the grip to have a nice feel to it and I think any size hand would find it comfortable. I got these at Tools for Working Wood for $21.95 each. I know you can get them at amazon and other places but I don't know if they give you the opportunity to select different colors or if you are stuck with the luck of the draw. Preppin Weapon Sanding Blocks
  7. 7 points
    The Harlequin side table will have 8 drawers. The drawer case sides and the central drawer blade are panels and run in dados or housings (depending on which side of the pond you live). Positioning of these dados is critical since any misalignment will affect the aesthetic. It goes without saying (but I shall) that the alignment also determines that the side panels will be square ... and drawers need to run against square sides. All this is done here with hand tools. Some of the finer points in getting it precise ... First of all, templates (or story sticks) are created to position the dados. There are two for each side panel: the second is 10mm longer than the first. Scoring each creates an exact 10mm dado. There is a series of templates to position all the dados. This ensures that the upper and the lower dado are position exactly the same distance from the reference wall ... A chisel wall is created for the marked outlines. This wall enables the fence to be lined up using a wide chisel ... The sidewalls are sawn with a azebiki saw. This have two curved sides, one with coarse rip teeth and the other with fine crosscut teeth. I begin with the fine teeth and use them to establish the kerf, and then switch to to the coarse teeth for speedier sawing. With a compass, I check that the kerf is parallel and to the desired width (10mm) ... The sawn side wall is now chopped away close to full depth ... This is done across the dados on one board at a time ... The waste in the centre of each dado is removed with a router plane. The dados are done at the same time to save have to reset the depth of cut (one stroke on dado #1, one on dado #2, and one on dado #3 ... then back to #1 ...) ... Keep an eye on the depth ... Fine tune the dado should theoretically be unnecessary if they were marked accurately. In practice, I find that there is usually some waste in the corners, or a slightly sloped wall. For this reason I run a side rebate plane (here a Veritas), the length of each wall. This is not held vertically, since that with remove some of the width. Instead it is run at an angle away from the side wall, as it it was undercutting the side wall ... The fit is now checked with an offcut from the side panel ... The side rebate plane can take a smidgeon off the sidewall if the fit is too tight. Some will argue that it is preferable to plane the panel instead. In this situation that is not advisable since the panel is to slide along the dado, and a tight point will impede all points of the panel. The carcase is Hard Maple, with Merbau as the secondary wood. Locally, Merbau is used for decking. It is cheap and hard, both qualities valued. But is a really brittle wood, and awful to work with. The number of splinters I have had ... and they are sharp and lodge deeply. Ugh! It can look like this ... ... and then a section breaks away ... At least it will be far inside the carcase and not be seen. A panel is made up for the interior dividers ... The pieces are fitted. Will the careful planning and neurotic execution pay off? I was holding my breath. This is a dry fit .... (sound of breathing again) Then I pulled it apart and glued up the carcase ... More after the coming weekend. Regards from Perth Derek
  8. 7 points
    Dave check out this kiln dried 4/4 tiger hard maple lumber. But this pile not for sale.
  9. 7 points
    Had to replace my hard drive which put me way behind on updating this project. I'll get to it soon. In the meantime - I'm really happy that I talked myself into the 16" jointer over the 12". Pretty much at capacity! And the surface finish is really nice - no tearout (cutters are still on the original edge after 1 1/2 years of use) and lots of chatoyance! Love this machine!
  10. 7 points
    Looks like an edge clamp, like the Bessey KT5, used to clamp edging strips with regular bar clamps.
  11. 6 points
    Slowly sanding and finishing my way through this. Other than that, all I have left is to route grooves for the t-tracks and slap on some pulls. I got one completed (only went with 2 coats of finish, I'm just too impatient to do more.) This gap displeases me. It wasn't nearly this bad before finish. The two drawers rub. So I will have to address that issue before I'm truly done.
  12. 6 points
    Built a pull out shelf that I was planning to put my track saw on to get rid of the insanely too big Makita systainer. Of course, it doesn't fit in that space. But with the spindle sander down below I couldn't have done any better. I'll have to figure out what tools to put there. I know at some point I'm going to have to bite the bullet and get rid of Festool systainers, I just don't have room for them it seems. Put trim on the tops. Went pretty well. First time doing mitered trim. Also first time using the new SCMS. I made the trim about 1/4" taller wider than it needed to be in case there were undulations or bowing in my tops because the plywood sucked. There definitely was on the long top. But on the two smaller ones it just left me with tons of extra material. First I tried to use a flush cut bit. It didn't work that well for me. I think my bit is dulling. This walnut is insanely hard too and tears out easily. It's the most difficult walnut I've ever used. So I switched to the painful way. Once those were done I sanded them and put a first coat of finish on. Also put first coat on 4 drawers that were sanded previously. Then opened the garage door and water dripped right on them because it's hurricane season in IL somehow. Whatever. First coat so they'll be sanded.
  13. 6 points
    My nephew and I went to the sellers today, disconected the power and took everything off the saw but the center cast iron top. Tomorrow is moving day and we'll probably take the center off then. On the way home we stopped to rent the Power Mate. We wanted an opportunity to try it out and I had an old drill press I wanted out of the basement to facilitate selling. The aluminum model Power Mate with 650 lbs capacity is itself a hefty machine. You can pick it up, but you're not going to want to. We loaded it into the primadona pickup by having it climb in as in the videos. I'm sorry I don't have any photos of the stair climb--we were a little busy. The drill press was an old Craftsman bench model on a wood pedestal and mobile base. We moved the whole thing, including the mobile base as one. I brought the tongue under the base at the motor end and strapped the drill to the dolly. It was quite unwieldy. Not as heavy as the saw, but the center of gravity was very far forward. Negotiating the 6 stairs to my cinder block landing was a bit of a challenge. In part that was my inexperience with the machine, but it takes a lot of effort and attention to keep the load balanced. You have to keep ahead of the load. But it worked and we got the drill to the garage (wanna buy it?). Tomorrow we're planning to tackle the saw.
  14. 5 points
    Started a new project for organizing my lathe area in the new shop. Will have tool storage that's accessible from the lathe as well as lots of other storage for the other items that go with the lathe. I'll be using the top for all the shop sharpening stuff. The plans aren't finished yet as I'm still working through some details.
  15. 5 points
    This stuff showed up at my house yesterday afternoon, don't know why, it just did. I am going to keep it though.
  16. 5 points
    I've been noticing some changes in the pain over the last week or so. It doesn't seem as intense. And trust me, that's a damn good thing. I'll get some observations from my Physical Therapist this week. Being able to sit longer is a good sign. Standing hasn't improved a lot. It's tough going, but you know what they say, In order to be old, ya gotta be a tough SOB.
  17. 5 points
    The Tiger is starting to show.
  18. 5 points
    Problem solved! I took off the bar to check if it was bent. It’s not. But, there was a spring laying inside the area where the bar clamps in. I figured that was probably an important piece. I looked at an exploded diagram for the saw and sure enough it goes there ostensibly to hold the bar tight. So I reassembled the bar with the spring resting on the tightening screw. I screwed everything back down and it lined up just right!
  19. 5 points
    So life got in the way of shop time for a few days. I have the case pieces milled and cut to final size. I haven’t been practicing dovetails like I had hoped, and I’m not very good at putting full effort into practice. So with all of that, I decided to... just go ahead and cut the tails. I still have some waste to remove and cleanup to do, but they are started. I will sit down and sharpen my chisels before proceeding with the cleanup and then cutting the pins.
  20. 5 points
  21. 5 points
    I've drifted this direction as well. I also have a small jointer. Trying to square up a huge (long) board theoretically will maximize your material, but long boards can be heavy and difficult to join, and if the board is bowed or curved you just loose too much material thickness, which tends to be a more critical dimension than length (if you plan accordingly). I rough cut to length (typically about 6 inches long, to leave plenty of room for snipe and minor end splitting). Join two parallel edges, plane, and then table saw rip for a four square board that is glue ready. bigger picture, one of the most important things is to try and do all your stock on the planer at one time, because you generally want all of your 3/4" material to be exactly the same amount of deviation from true 3/4". If it is all 2% thick or thin, it won't matter, but it will matter if you plane some now, and plane some later, and wind up with a mixture of boards that are slightly thinner or thicker.
  22. 5 points
    Nope, I’m woodworking because golf, bowling, tennis only take one ball
  23. 5 points
    I haven't had a lot of time lately, but I finally managed to finish fitting the dovetail joints. I had the single tails for the small doors: And the double tails on the bigger ones: They're not seating fully yet since I still need to clean up the baselines with the trim router. I think I've got a pretty good system that I used to quickly knock out these dovetails - not exactly conventional, but it sure worked well. I kind of felt like I was cheating, but I can't complain about the results. After I've confirmed my test fit of all the doors I can get the panels cut to size and glue them up.
  24. 5 points
    I hired a moving company today. I found a local outfit much cheaper than 2 Men and a Truck. I should have it out this Friday. As an added benefit I think they will set the thing down in the mobile base at my shop so I won't have to figure out how to lift it in. Don't get me wrong. There's nothing wrong with the suggestions, but there's a difference to what I will do in my house or a buddies house and what I can do at a stranger's house.
  25. 5 points
    The Curly Cherry logs made it to my house. It killed me and my wife unloading it. 3 or 4 pcs of 4/4 the rest 9/4. My brother doesn’t know it but he is going to come over next Sunday and help unload the Tiger Maple log.
  26. 5 points
    I enjoyed looking over their website. I especially like this quote: We don't know what style our furniture is, but we believe it has some.
  27. 5 points
    Yesterday I was using the space allowed by the side door. The garage door was closed. And then the wind shut the side door. One second later one of the led's powered on. It works! All I need for that.
  28. 4 points
    Recently we bought some outdoor furniture and as a result now have cushions that need a place to be stored. I thought about the needs for a while and came up with a plan to make some storage cabinets out of redwood so they can go outside if i want them to or if they look good enough be inside. I ended up liking them and because they ended up heavier than I expected i doubt we'll be moving them in and out. The sides are pseudo frame and panel. Basically i made a frame and then to make the panels i glued slats on the backside of the frame. The boards that make the panel are not glued together but instead are a V groove shiplap. The way i glued them on with the shiplap will allow for wood movement and the V groove was added for some visual interest. I was worried about them being to plain and boring. They still are pretty plain and boring but it's not so bad. This was my first time installing a mortise butt hinge. I bought some stainless steel ones off of amazon that were marketed as marine hinges. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P7QDTSF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I figured why not the price isn't bad and they can't be that bad. After getting them i was impressed. They aren't quite to the quality that bruso has but they have very little slop and are nice and smooth. I checked with a magnet to make sure that they were stainless steel and sure enough they weren't magnetic so success! Here are some additional pictures. I made a pair of them to be placed on either side of our siding glass door that goes strait to the deck. All of this is in the background of the pictures. The Finnish i used was Outdoor Oil from General finishes. I don't really recommend it. I like the finish from The real Milk Paint Company called outdoor defense better. It's a tung oil finish that has some other goodies. Outdoor oil cures far faster though at 36 ish hours compared to 7 days. When i finished the project i emptied my DC bin. I got excited to do something hit the on button to my horror i forgot to put the dust try under the filter and the bin under the cyclone. The mess was aweful.
  29. 4 points
    This a nice miter station. I've had a few miter stations over the years and I hate to break it to you, but that chip is the least of your worries. You might want to just take a hammer to it now and get past any future emotional anguish caused by dings. LOL.
  30. 4 points
    I’m not the youngest child in this group and certainly don’t profess to be in the upper 50% of the smartest but, I’ve noticed a trend. At first there were 6 volt tools, then 8v and now, and I didn’t know it until Ross mentioned it, 80v. How long before someone realizes that there is already a 120v available and you don’t even need a battery?
  31. 4 points
    I agree with most here that the look of this chair is a little harsh, but I see more to this that the harsh angles. My eye has already started to soften it. Here's a few altered sketches I developed from the PDF plan. Here is one that was developed by making the arm rest thicker/wider, giving a better sweep to the arm and a pronounced area where your hand rests. Same outline traced from the above sketch; Here's a sketch staying within the confines of the original plan, meaning I don't need to alter the size of the parts the plan calls for, less of a pronounced sweep in the arm and no pronounced area for hand rest; I think both of these alterations of the sides are going to be simple. I like the first alteration better. Also I think rounding over the leg profile is a simple way to soften the look and shouldn't weaken the chair. As for the rest of the chair, I think the seat won't need to be altered but I'd like to soften the back rest. Perhaps for the back rest try to use thicker stock and develop a more pronounced curve. As I stated earlier I plan to post this build. I really intrigued by this construction approach.
  32. 4 points
    In the Guild build of Darell's Fremont Night Stand he shows how to build his drawer clamp. Very clever, IMO. Makes squaring the drawer nearly idiot-proof. In a nutshell, it's a horizontal platform fixed to a base that raises it up and provides clamping on 4 sides. The platform has a vertical riser that's dead-on 90 degrees. One drawer side clamps to that vertical riser, the drawer front is fitted to that, forming an L shape, then the other side is fitted forming a U shape. He then uses wedge inside the second side to push into perfect 90 degree alignment. Allows for horizontal and vertical clamping of the components. My drawer sides were within less than 1/64" front to back using it.
  33. 4 points
    I bought an 8 pound bag of cotton rags from a big box store. I emptied them into the washing machine, and added a light touch of bleach. The lint trap got full, but now I have a drawer full of soft clean white rags that really work for me.
  34. 4 points
    I use old colored t-shirts for finishing and I've never had a run problem. When I say old I mean at the point that my wife refuses to let me sleep in them. They work great and are always more comfortable than the brand new ones.
  35. 4 points
    Hey folks. We need to do some maintenance on the forum including a server migration. On Monday morning, the forum will go offline and will not be accessible for most of the day. The timeline for the migration is highly variable so we can't make any specific promises about exactly when we'll be up and running again. Thanks for your understanding. Marc
  36. 4 points
    PLEASE, Please, tell me it ain't so!!! You could have bought a Delta or Grizzly and been just as happy with the vertical surfaces and saved money. I think you need to check the manual, I don't think you are using it correctly. You are really going to like the SawStop when you learn to use it properly.
  37. 4 points
    With the carcase completed, it is time to turn to the internal dividers for the drawers. I took the time first to plane the rebate for the rear panel. Knowing my spatial weakness of getting parts back-to-front and upside-down, I marked these when the carcase was a dry fit (and later briefly thought I had screwed this up!) ... One of the benefits of mitred corners is that the rebate can be planed across without fear of it showing ... The rebate is 6mm deep as the rear panel will be 5mm thick to bend it around the curved rear. The carcase is 20mm thick, and the rebate extends halfway into this. I was curious to see how rebating on a curve would turn out. No problem ... Here is the rear of the carcase with the rebate ... Moving to the stopped dados/housings ... the centre panel is solid rather than a frame. I decided that this would be less work, plus there will be a series of stopped dados to be made. The panel is 10mm thick. This was made first, that is, the dados were sized to fit the panel thickness. I made up a couple of templates. One was the height of the dado, and the other was the height of the dado plus the width of the dado. The inside of the carcase is marked on both sides using the same templates to ensure that they are exactly the same height from the base. The lines are deepened with a knife, and then a chisel wall is created to register a saw cut ... The end of the stopped dado is defined ... A Japanese azebiki was used along a guide to ensure it cut on the vertical ... Now that the sides are defined by the kerf, this could be deepened with a chisel (this is my favourite chisel - a 1" Kiyohisa. Sublime!) .. The waste is removed with a router plane ... Check that the side walls are square ... Completed side panels ... I was so confident that the dados were perfect that I dry fitted the carcase once more ... and then found that one dado was a smidgeon too tight for the test piece. It turned out that a small section of a side wall was not as square as I thought (probably the saw did not cut deeply enough at that spot). The best too to clear this is a side rebate plane. Set for a very light cut to clear the waste, not the dado width ... Perfect fit this time ... Time to fit the centre panel. This has been shaped to size, but will need a little fine tuning at a later time. Note that the rear section is secondary wood (Merbau) ... I had just enough time to slide the panel in. Nice tight fit. Not enough time to saw the rebates for the stopped dados. This will be done next time ... Regards from Perth Derek
  38. 4 points
    haha the planes are on their way to me, I didn't take many pictures during class.
  39. 4 points
    Now wait a minute, you say you made two planes, but I don't see any pictures of any planes.
  40. 4 points
    Used the jack plane to improve the gap. And, somehow, managed to chip the drawer face above and to the right of the pull. Not cool. Routed the grooves for the t-track. The one side pictured went poorly. Track slipped. But I think I can repair it by putting walnut strips in there. It won't look perfect though. Also despite my best attempts, I hit brad nails. I picked this thing up yesterday. I absolutely love it. I have a lot of issues with my arms. Tendenitis, nerve pain and tennis elbow, so the much heavier dewalt impact driver (18v, non brushless) is a real pain in the butt. This little m12 is amazing. I'm definitely moving into Milwaukee hardcore.
  41. 4 points
    This is what I ended up with - I bought this case, although now the pictures on amazon have changed slightly so I'm not sure what's going on with product quality...looks the same but who knows. I checked the case with American Airlines and had zero issues, made it thru three flights (one connecting). The foam in this case is already segmented into squares so it was a bit tough to fit the curved objects but everything made it without a scratch. Overall I'm happy with the case but would be willing to spend the extra money for a pelican case, I can't explain why but I would spend the extra money. I used some cheap non-TSA locks for two reasons: 1) TSA locks offer very little security 2) Most expensive locks can be cut just as easily...plus I figured once a potential thief saw that it's not a camera or lenses they would lose interest. I never really considered shipping, I think it would be more expensive but actually have no idea. I paid $30 to check the case from Vegas to PA, and then $30 again from NY to Vegas - $60 total. I never even weighed the case but it's less than 50 lbs. Thanks for all the suggestions!
  42. 4 points
    I had an opportunity to turn the blank a bit this weekend. I was pleasantly surprised at how well it turned. I thought the glue would make it hard, but it was as smooth as a solid block would have been. It's pretty unbalanced, but eventually I'll make some bowl or something out of this. I was encouraged to see how well the glue joints held. I thought I might get some fragmenting, but that only happened a couple of places where I had obvious gaps and hadn't tried to fix. So all in all I don't expect anything wonderful to come out of this blank, but I think the technique is promising enough to maybe, possibly, give another try, later.
  43. 4 points
    On my wood ID resources page, here: Wood ID Resources I have totally upgraded the section on books. In addition to adding clickable links for all the books to the Amazon page where you can buy the book, I've also expanded the descriptions of most of them. I have also finally added Eric Meier's Wood! with both the Amazon link and a link to my full review of it. I've done a few other cleanups here and there including dropping a couple of dead links.
  44. 4 points
    I’m going to respond to this without reading any of the responses posted. I was once a glue and screw type of guy. When I decided to build a “real” piece of furniture, I had to change my way of woodworking. I studied all of the more advanced joint techniques, asked a million on this form and lord and behold the mortise and tenon joint came into my life. After just a hand full of projects, I personally can never go back to glue and screw for even a short life project. I don’t woodwork for money, so anything I build I build for a life time. I’m not knocking any other lesser jointing techniques, I just can’t do it that way anymore.
  45. 4 points
    I finally got to clean up my pins tonight with the trim router. I really love that method. Everything was ready for a test fit. A few minor gaps here and there, but overall pretty good. I do have one door with a minor twist, but I think the plywood panel should take care of it. The right side: And the left: It seems bigger than I expected now that it's assembled, but I'm sure it'll be fine up on the wall. I still need to figure out my hinges. I did order some on eBay that might work, but I'm trying to decide if they're beefy enough. Plan B might be stainless marine style hinges or a thicker piano hinge.
  46. 4 points
    https://garyweeks.com/company/our-shop/custom-machines/ I've recently been fascinated by shop-made machinery. Specifically I would like to build a stroke sander one day. Philip Morely has a cool one in his small shop, and various FWW authors throughout the years have had the odd gem. Gary Weeks' shop has some seriously cool shop-made machines though! I thought folks would enjoy seeing them if they hadn't already. His "straight line machine" (edge jointer using a shaper spindle) is also interesting.
  47. 4 points
  48. 4 points
    Had another request for these so, decided to do something a little different with them!
  49. 4 points
    You know Birdie, that’s exactly what Brock and Marc had to say and I heard but didn’t listen! Thanks bud! So from here on out, mine will a Coop Coopered Low Back Chair, an original!
  50. 4 points
    I think a lot of people put too much stock in how good a surface a planer leaves, but that surface isn't ready for finish anyway. It still needs sanding/scraping/planing.