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  1. 13 points
    A number of years ago, I built my wife a computer desk of white oak with some storage. But it took up and enormous amount of room. Since she's not around to use it any more, I figured I could simplify the space and still have access to the computer. I use her computer for background music when I doing house things. You know, dishes, vacuum, read and sketch stuff. So I built this little table , that might be called an entry table or sofa table. It's made from "very" soft Maple. It's so soft, it made me think that Pine was a hardwood. This Maple is curly, and has a bunch of Sp[alting and around this part of the country it's also called "wormy" Maple. Which is Ambrosia Maple to woodworkers. I bought this wood air dried from @Spanky more than a year ago, and it was 7' long 4/4 thick and 15" wide. It sat stickered in my shop for about a year. So it was dry an d ready to work. If nothing else, it's an eyecatcher. There's a small strip of Cherry along the bottom of the aprons, that I like.
  2. 9 points
    Seat carving process has started and it is going a LOT faster than I thought it would. I was able to get the first seat done in 4 hours and that wasn't overlapping glue drying time. If I do other operations while glue is drying I could easily get that down further but I won't bother timing it because it doesn't really matter. First step is to select material. I had some nice 10" wide boards from my order of 6/4 Cherry. I figured I'd use 2 pieces to make the seat. In order to do the pre-sculpting though that board gets hacked into parts to be glued back together. Spoiler the grain turned out quite nice despite cutting and gluing back together. I'll be able to spot the glue seams but an average observer probably won't look close enough. In the picture above the center of the board is missing. The pre-sculpting works best of the center of the seat is a board about 4" wide. This sets up the pommel area, as well as the main seat area. To make the 4" center I took 2" off of each board, jointed and glued them together to make a 4" board. To start of the pre sculpting and ensure the chairs end up roughly similar, i made a template with index marks to make sure that the profile is accuraly placed on the center board of each chair. The profile is then cut on the band saw. To set the pomel area I needed to cut an angle. I didn't want to tilt my band saw table to do this as that would be a hassle as I use the glue up time to back out the milling for the next seat. Also this doesn't allow the wood to sit long in a partially milled state which may cause movement I don't want. The angle was achieved by setting my fence at 2_1/8" and using a 1" spacer. After the center board is pre-sculpted, I align all the boards and draw on the outline of the sculpted area with my template (the picture is old and the template needed to be cut yet.) Because of the curve on the backside you have to be careful with the profile of the pre-sculpting. It's possible to cut into an area that should be left. The boards just to the sides of center are the main boards that your legs sit over so they are recessed 1/4" from the pomel and sides of the chair. It's kinda hard to see below. The seat area I think is about 5/8" which leaves around 3/4" under your rear. The outside boards are the most complicated to pre-sculpt. It's not really easy to do it on the band saw as you can't do a through cut so there are some weird compound angles and well it's easier to just do as @Bmac instructs and take the outside pieces to your bench and sculpt them with your sander/grinder. This is a step that Mar doesn't do in his rocker videos and it's immensly helpful as you have more room around the part to maneuver your tool to get the perfect shape. I also use a very high tech measuring device to set an offset from the outside line. This tells me about where I want the curved side to stop. I remove the bulk inside the line and then setting the grinder on the angle blend from my rule of thumb line to the outside line. This has helped prevent me from trying to make the sides too steep which doesn't work very well and isn't very comfortable. The outside part after pre-sculpting, next to it is an untoched piece. After this point the seat is ready to be clued together and shaped. With all the pre-sculpting there isn't a lot to be done. Really it's just even everything up. This is why pre-sculpting seems like the cheat code to do this. After I use the RAS with 24 grit paper I go over the seat with a goose neck scraper. This is where I deviate from others. I know Bmac uses 50 grit and the moves into the RO90, while I don't have the RO90 and every time i went to buy it I had a really hard time pulling the trigger. I did one of my trials with the goose neck scraper and found it was an excellent way to get between 24 grit and 80 grit with an interface pad. It may be hard to see in the picture above but after sculpting there are some high spots and some deeper scratches. Trying to level all this out with sanders left a surface that felt like it undulated a lot to me. When i used the scraper I was able to remove those high spots and the surface felt far more uniform. Both were smooth it's more the difference between laser flat and slightly scalloped. The scraper did not leave a perfectly clean surface though. With the changing grain directions there was some tear out and other issues. Goose neck scrapers and difficult to sharpen and get tuned up well so that doesn't help either. So I started sanding at 80 grit on my 125mm sander with the foam interface pad. This generally goes well. but the sander is VERY under powered so care has to be taken to not stall the RO movement. After 80 grit i jump to 120 grit on my 150mm sander with a foam interface pad. Using the 2 sanders back to back it's very apparent that the 125 ets needs more power. Due to the curved surface the 150 nearly jumped out of my hand numerous times. I ended up turning it down from 6 to 4 as i found it almost unwieldy at full power. After 150 is 180 than 220. Next up is finishing touches and round over to the seats then finishing and mounting. The end is near. My goal is to eat dinner Friday on one of these chairs fully finished. If I don't meet my goal so be it but it's my goal.
  3. 9 points
    I always tell myself this will be the project where I start a journal before the thing is done. I did post some progress shots of this one on the facebook guild group if anyone is following along over there. I decided to make one of these traditional shaker step stools as a challenge and to put some of the walnut wood I purchased to work. I decided to incorporate the both the dark heartwood and some of the sapwood. I know that is not for everyone, but I like how it turned out. First, I started with my dovetails. I challenged myself to using my western style Veritas saw on these, and I may have completely flipped. I thought I was pull saw all the way, but now I'm learning western saw. Tails first for me. Thanks to @derekcohen for the blue tape method (albeit yellow tape in this case). The color contrast made hitting the lines much easier. Three tails on each step. Next time around I may attempt the super skinny pins, but these are fine for now. Next, adding the tails and the back stretcher? Time for a quick test sit. Now, insanely, I forgot to cut the little half circles until after I'd glued it. I kept leaving them off thinking I would get the joinery solved first.... whoops! In the end, not that big of a deal. A 6" hole saw left a very workable edge with minimal blow out, as I clamped the sides between some scrap. And the finished product:
  4. 9 points
    This is a replacement jig for cutting splines I made, the old one was not the best and I hope this one will serve me better. Just plywood and MDF I had around, T-Track and white oak runners. Adjustable stops left and right. Any comments on improvement or construction are welcome, not crazy about the MDF but it’s what I had around, should have been Baltic birch, thanks for looking
  5. 8 points
    well like many people my shop is my garage and is completely unheated. its cold in there in the middle of the winter but the last few weekends have been warm. this weekend it was up in the 50s. that's downright tropical for Illinois in February. I have been in there trying to get it cleaned up so that I can make something as soon as it is comfortable. in the mean time to keep from going crazy and start chewing on my leg from cabin fever I have been painting again. never painted with water color till this year and haven't painted in years. but boredom and feeling restless made me pick up a brush again. I thought I would post a few of the painting that I have done and hopeful it inspires someone to try something new.
  6. 8 points
    This chair is headed out the door to the upholstery guy this week. All the shaping and sanding is done and the finish has been applied. One new wrinkle I've added to my sanding which has really helped is after sanding to 400 I burnish the surface with a white 3m pad. This has made any grain raising during the finish application practically disappear. Wanted to go over the upholstery side of things, because I was confused about how he wanted things and I incorrectly described what he wanted. We met last week and clarified things. First is the seat. rails 1/2" below the lip were glued and screwed in place, following the contour of the seat rails. He wanted a 1/2" frame to sit inside the opening, with about 1/8-1/4" gap all the way around. He'll use the frame for webbing, he'll put padding on that, put the fabric over that, and then the seat panel will just fit into the opening and a few screws can secure it to the chair. Here's my frame sitting in the seat opening and resting on the rails; For the back he wanted a frame that had about 1/8" clearance all around the back opening. He'll make the back cushion as a panel using webbing again. After the panel is made he'll screw it into the frame and cover the back with fabric. Earlier I was confused about this step, I thought he wanted the frame glued in place. The back frame also needs to follow the contours of the headrest and the lower cross piece. To achieve the look of "2" cushions in the back area, I placed two cross rails. This will allow him to pull and secure the fabric right were the cushions appear to meet. Here's what this frame looks like; And finally, here are a few shots of the chair with the finish applied; This build so far has been super fun. I see more upholstered pieces in my future, totally opening up another dimension in my skill set. I'll post final pics after the upholstery in done. Thanks for looking.
  7. 7 points
    OK, I promised to do a journal on this, after "teasing" it in another thread. I finally got started, and am now proceeding along at my typically glacial pace. First, material acquisition. I tried a new supplier, as they are open Saturdays, which let me avoid missing work. The prices were decent, but there are a couple of drawbacks. The place is NOT a sawmill, but a "Value Added Reseller". They buy wood from guys like @Spanky and do some sort of processing to it. All their stock was S3S. I prefer rough 4/4, because my work pace means the wood has time to move between milling and assembly. If I start with rough, I have more materials to play with in case a second milling becomes necessary. Also, I had to plane it all anyway, because the thickness was not consistent. Ownership of the place in in transition. As a result, no replenishment of stock has been done for a little while. I had to scrape the bottom of the proverbial barrel to find enough cherry with color. At least there was plenty of oak. The design of the table top calls for two layers, the upper of red oak, and the lower of cherry. To account for contrary wood movement, the disks will be attached only with screws in elongated holes. The grain will be aligned so that expansion and contraction occurs in the same direction, which should minimize the seasonal differences in disk size and shape. The cherry disk is slightly larger in diameter to create a contrasting rim for the oak. As experiment, I tried two methods for cutting the disk. On the oak, I used a jigsaw to rough out the circle, following up with spokeshave and block plane to reach the line. (ignore the background clutter. I'm STILL transitioning into the new space!) This went pretty well. But since I just HAD to try a different technique, I went with a trammel-type circle cutting jig an a router on the cherry disk: I think I'll go back to my spokeshave. Aside from being annoyingly loud, and incredibly messy, the router setup was no faster, filled the room with smoke of scorched cherry each time I paused to reposition myself, and had a far greater potential to go sideways if the jig happened to slip. My router has no dust collection port, obviously: Now I have two concentric disks, still a little larger than intended, just in case. If smoothing and edge profiles go without a hitch, I doubt the client will argue about getting an extra inch of diameter. Next step is to smooth the disks and create the support structure underneath.
  8. 7 points
    While the others were pointing their cameras at a rushing stream I found a fork in the road and was pointing my lens at the ground.
  9. 7 points
    Following hot on the heels of the last post, where we created the male or tail section of the tapered sliding dovetail, now comes the female or pin socket to house the base for the legs. These are the bases. This post will focus on the socket for the one closest the camera. The base is positioned exactly 3 1/4" from the side. The tapered side is on the inside, with the outside face square to the front and rear of the case ... This process is essentially the same as transferring marks from the tail- to the pin board with drawers. The base tapers towards the toe, that is, the sliding dovetail will tighten up as the base is pushed into the socket. The first step is to register the far end of the base in such a way that the position is repeatable. This is done by placing a long board along the "square" side. The position for the end of the board is marked ... Now the base can be stood up to mark inside the tail with a scratch awl. You can make out the mark aligning the baseline of the tail ... Look carefully for the dots. This is repeated at the other end. The dots are now joined up ... The plan is to saw the socket sides, as if sawing dovetails in a drawer. The angle ratio is 1:6, as it was with the base. Since the socket is blind or stopped, the saw needs to have space in which to begin the cut. An area at the toe is excavated with a router. The depth of the cut is set using a 7.0mm drill bit. I am aware that the actual depth is 7.5mm, but this will be a second pass. I intend to clear the waste with the router - this Jarrah is bloody hard, and I am not a masochist! Using an angled saw guide, the end is chopped to the line .. Now this is space to register the azebiki saw ... I have roughly marked a depth to aim for ... Both sides have been sawn ... The waste is removed with the router, leaving a few mm close to the sides ... This is chopped away with a chisel in two passes, and then cleaned up with a hand router ... The side rebate #79/dovetail plane is used to clean any rough sections .. The power router drops a 0.5mm to 7.5mm and this is cleaned up ... Amazingly, the base slides in and tightens up about 1/4" from the end. It will need a tap to be fully secure. That's it for now. Regards from Perth Derek
  10. 7 points
    @treeslayer it’s as done as it’s gonna get. All the bits and pieces together, for the most part
  11. 7 points
    Not sure how high I'm kicking but I am still moving.Went to the spine doc today to discuss a small problem and how to fix it. But I have finished our dining room table . And now I am working on making the treads and risers for my staircase.
  12. 7 points
    An alternate retirement hobby than rug hooking for the ladies.
  13. 7 points
    Today I travelled into the vast watelands of West Tennessee, near the Kentucky frontier, in search of a hardwood dealer that deigns to open on Saturday. After almost 2 hours of driving, losing GPS signal at least 4 times, and following "roads" that bore more resemblance to a slug trail, we finally located the place. 65 bf of red oak and 30 bf of cherry are bound to become something I'm calling the 'Toadstool Table'. Project journal coming soon, to a forum thread near you...
  14. 7 points
    I bought 100 bf of 8/4 walnut for $5/bf. I thought it was an ok deal.
  15. 7 points
    Thank you all for your input. I stopped b y Rockler and bought the Freud SD208. I j ust don't use it often enought to justify the more expensive model. It looks kinda scary sitting on the arbor since my old set had many more teeth on the chippers so that it looked more solid. First thing I noticed is that the spacers and shims are steel and that there was a real solid feel when I tighened the arbor bolt and the blades and chippers did not rotate with the wrench. My old set had aluminum and plastic shims that tended to slip as the bolt was tightened. Also the blades and chipppers slid onto the arbor smoothly. The blades and chippers in the old set were hard to get on and harder to get snug against each other. I fired it up for a few seconds and it didn't explode. Checked the bolt and it was fine. Did one test cut and it cut like butter - 13/16 wide and 1/4" deep in hard maple. I'll cut the dados in the sides of my drawers tomorrow. I am going to sleep happy now. Thanks again.
  16. 7 points
    A beautiful driveway line with Live Oaks at Wormsole Historic Site. I never realized how beautiful Live Oaks were until I saw them in person.
  17. 7 points
    Basically just bought a tree and filled up the minivan. Black Walnut!
  18. 6 points
    Here is my current project
  19. 6 points
    I love those bit holders. I did 2" oc staggered. These are the trays I made for my router table cabinet:
  20. 6 points
    As a reminder, we are building a version of this table ... The plan is to attach the legs, which were made near the start of this project. The attachment method is by inserting the legs into compound angle mortices in a base, which will be fixed to the carcase with a tapered sliding and stopped dovetail. We don't mess about here! It will be necessary to do this over two articles, the first being the base for the legs, which will be dovetailed (tails). The second will be the socket (pins) for the base. Before we begin, I want to mention what I did at the end of the last session. I had replaced the central drawer dividers as the grain ran in the wrong direction. The spacers at the ends also did so, and my response was to cut out half the spacer ... Well, I fretted over the end spacers, and just could not leave them this way. Encouraged by the way the halves had come out cleanly, I removed the remainder and replaced the spacers with correctly grained versions ... OK, onto the leg base ... I spent a while playing with angles for the legs, and finally accepted this (mocked up base) ... I have drilled angled mortices with a brace on a number of occasions. This time I decided to used a drill press and some Japanese Star-M augers, which are specially designed for this type of work (no lead screws). I built a 10 degree ramp for the resultant angle. The auger is 30mm ... [ The tenon is straight, but the mortice will receive a slight reaming, and the tenon will be glued and wedged. This is probably overkill since the weight of the case rests on the legs. These are the bases for the legs. The final prototype is at the rear ... Drilling the bases ... The design requires that the legs do not go over the boundary of the case (to avoid tripping over them) ... This is how they should be ... There was a small dilemma: The base at one side measures 3" from the end ... ... and the other side measures 1/4" further ... I could not work out how this occurred. The angles are the same. In fact, I made another set of bases, and the same error showed up again - exactly the same! So what to do? Actually, the decision was obvious after a little think - make the bases the same. What is more likely to be noticed is if the bases are different distances from the sides. No one will notice a 1/4" difference where the legs hit the ground. So be it. This is one of the bases for dovetailing ... First step is to remove a 2mm taper from one side. The taper will be on the inside of the base, with the outside parallel to the side of the case. Taper line drawn ... Easiest way to do this is with a #604 smoother .. This is the one end of the base ... .. and this is the other end ... mmmm .... 0.39 mm oversize. What to do ...? I'm kidding The dovetails will be 7mm deep. A shoulder was planed with a rebate plane ... The squareness of this rebate is important, so check ... The dovetail is now to be created, and the preparatory step is to colour the outer edge of the rebate with a sharpie. This will warn that the planing does not lower the external edge of the rebate. The dovetail is created with a modified Stanley #79 edge plane ... The fence has a 1:6 ratio wedge ... Details of this dovetail plane here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/SlidingDovetailsWithTheStanley79.html The result of planing. That is a 1:6 dovetail marker ... So what are the numbers for the taper? This will give an indication of the accuracy of the joint. One end is 44.12mm ... ... and the other is 46.46mm, which is a difference of 2.34mm. This will work - the pin socket is measured from this (in the same way as dovetails for a drawer. The reason for the 7mm depth? The case is 20mm thick. the dovetail should be about 1/3 of this thickness. I decided to take it to the depth of the rebate for the rear panel ... So, here is one of the completed bases ... And this is where it will be fitted ... Regards from Perth Derek
  21. 6 points
    I really like roads and driveways like that. One of the reasons we bought this house is this; Half of our driveway in the spring and the fall.
  22. 6 points
    So you want to get wood for your wedding from a guy named Spanky....? I'll just leave it at that...
  23. 6 points
    All the chair backs are done and stacked in a safe place. The nested backs are oddly satisfying to look at so I thought I'd share another picture. The next main hurdle I have is trying to complete the joinery from the back legs to the front legs. I want the seat to taper slightly from the front to the back adding some visual depth to the chair. This means that the joinery for those parts would be on an angle. The angle ends up being around 5 degrees. I have my table saw blade set and won't change the angle untill all the parts are cut. Just in case something gets bumped I cut an angle in to a piece of hardwood. I will also use this piece of hardwood to set the fence on the domino consistently to 5 degrees. Now that I have the angles figured out I needed to figure out floating M&T placement so that the rear legs will join to the side rails in the best way possible. Beings that the main rear rail has a single tenon in the middle I figured I'd do 2 tenons spaced apart. The other trick is setting the fence depth so I get the reveal I want. This just took a bit of fiddling and some measuring. I wrote the values down so I can reference them quickly. Now it's posted here in case my board gets erased. The reveal ends up being around 3mm. The difference in values between the fron and the rear stem from the location of the tenon on the side rail. I now just realized that if my side rails are the same thickness as my trial pine the front leg reveal won't work out. I'll have to remeasure that once I get to it. The picture below shows the center of the floating tenons as well as the subtle setback on the side rails. The floating tenons are red oak and will be around 56mm long. I'll have 2 28mm mortises on each end of each rail. With each floating tenon 1/4" in from the edge of the side rail this should provide a LOT of strength on this joint in the chair. I have Prototype #3 in use for the last month or so and have been balancing on the chair on it's rear legs. So far it hasn't broken, I'm not the heaviest person that will sit in the chair but I'm probably the heaviest person that will put it on 2 legs and balance like that. The joiner on the prototype is not as stout as the joinery on the final chair so it should last the test of time but we'll see. One final material prep step was prep the front legs that I cut out of the rear leg scraps. I figured out how many additional legs I'd need and cut those out of some scrap stock. I call it scrap stock but honestly it was perfect for the job. It was 18" long and was 9" wide. I could get 2 legs from each edge of the stock and the blanks are perfectly rift sawn. I found another board to grab 2 more rift sawn blanks. Then I spent a good 30 min dong some grain matching to get the right 2 legs paired together. I'll be out of town for the weekend so I did the initial milling on the side rails and have the legs and side rails set out to hopefully relieave any stress in the boards and to preferably maintain EMC. Next week will be milling the rest of these parts to final, cutting joinery, then measuring and milling out the front rail. At that point I'll be ready to assemble 6 chairs. At that point I anticipate my shop getting really small feeling.
  24. 6 points
    Hello again from Ohio - I have made substantial (to me) progress on my shop build. My pace has hastened as my wife is now pregnant with twins and it is my understanding that the likelihood of my having and enjoying shop is zilch if said shop is not completed before the babies are born. Thus I have been burning the candle at both ends between work, baby prep, remodeling a rental, and of course...the shop. Last time I posted I'd had my detached garage air sealed with closed-cell foam and had my electrical panel installed. Some additional demo and electrical updates were then required. I killed power to the original circuits and cut out all the old wiring (ancient Romex stapled to the rafters) and properly terminated the old circuits. I also had to rewire a three-way switch to a flood light attached to the building that's also controllable from the house. Next came the unpleasant task of filling the stud and rafter bays with cheap fiberglass insulation. This was made far less enjoyable by the fact that I couldn't empty the building to give myself room to work. I had to contort myself around bins and tools and my cache of lumber to cut and install every batt. The job took ten times as long as it might have otherwise given all the obstructions, and it's definitely uglier than it ought to be, but it's finished. Now I'm working on the walls and ceilings, which is far more fun. The garage is detached so I am less worried about fire barriers etc. than I would be if it were attached. I've chosen 15/32 4-ply rated sheathing for the walls, and I am undecided as to whether I will also use that on the ceiling or use 7/16 OSB instead. Cost is a major factor in my decision so it'll probably be OSB, but the rafters are on 24" centers. I may have to go the ply route if OSB sags when run perpendicular to the them. The sagging batts are suboptimal but I have them strapped in places, and the ceiling sheeting will compress them in place. This building will not be winning any energy consciousness awards. I've also worked out my wiring plan. I'll run EMT and metal boxes, leaving room in both for future circuits. Paranoid, I dreamt up multiple likely tool layouts (including some with provisions for parking my wife's vehicle per an earlier ill-conceived promise) to ensure my receptacle layout would be flexible enough. This was probably overthinking on my part because the space is 18'x25' and I'm placing plenty of outlets. However, as I worked through my permutations joy of joys struck me when I realized the mom-mobile we recently purchased won't fit in the space with room to open the door! This was doubly good news because I think it unlikely I will be able to build the tool shed in the backyard I'd previously planned due to family expansion budgetary concerns, and the lawn mower etc. still need an accessible place to live. Another bonus to losing the car-parking requirement is that I could conceivably remove the old roll-up door, build insulated carriage doors, and achieve significantly better climate control. Speaking of layout, I think I have settled on a reasonable initial arrangement for my existing tools and benches. Originally I'd planned to just use my 1.5hp Laguna dust collector with a run of flex hose, but now I think I'm going to build a relatively-inexpensive single run of 6" SDR35 pvc with a few blast gates instead. It's great to finally feel close to having a shop again after two years wanting, dreaming, and waiting for it. More to come!
  25. 6 points
    Quick update, I've been out of town for a dental mission trip. Finally getting over my jet lag and into the swing of things. Before I left i glued the back supports to the frame. This lets me move on to the arms. My design was slightly off as my 10/4 stock for the arms did not match up as well from the front leg to the arm stem on the back rest. Really needed my front leg .5" higher and I would have been dead on. So I made a new "longer" template for future reference and I glued .5" pieces to the front part of the arm stock. Arms were perfect then and fit the stock to the chair and shaped my arms. Now we are moving forward; At this point arms are just screwed on, need to do glueup here and then final shaping. Upholstery guy stopped by and need to tweak my back frame and make a frame that sits in the seat opening. Once that's done it's final sanding and finishing before it's off to the upholstery guy. Thanks for looking.
  26. 6 points
    Picked up the last supplies needed for the theater construction. Poplar for the remaining cloth frames and Linacoustic RC for the screen wall. Now I just need the black fabric (ordered Monday) for the screen wall and I will be in business.
  27. 6 points
    This came in the mail. And no, as a matter of fact I can't offer any explanation as to why I bought it.
  28. 6 points
    Finally got the joinery cut for all the back rest parts. After batching out the joinery I used the smoothing planes to clean up all the parts. There was a bit of hand sanding required on the curved profiles but nothing major. All the little details on the back rest are quite tedious and i probably had 20 hours just in smoothing the legs, and other parts. I also made a LARGE pile of plane shavings. Glueup went smoothly for all of the chair backs. The last one gave me the most troubles but it wasn't anything major. I have 3 sweeping left and 3 sweeping right. I figure this will tie the asymetrical chairbacks together well when they are set around the table. I must have done a decent job at making the parts uniform. They next together quite well. Next up I have to figure out the joinery for the angled side rails and then figure out a good way to streamline the joinery for the side rails front legs, and front rail. I also need to decide if i want to do a lower rail between the front and rear legs or not.
  29. 6 points
    We ended the last session with the drawer dividers installed ... Everything was nice and square, but the more I thought about what I had done, the unhappier I became. Such an elementary oversight. I cannot believe I did it, and also that no one pulled me up for it. What was it? Two items: The first was that the grain for the drawer dividers runs the wrong way. Although the boards are as close to quarter grain as possible, which adds to stability, they will expand vertically. That could cause them to buckle, and then the drawers will not run nicely. The second is that I could have built in a way to close up the drawer dividers against the back of the (to-be-built) side lipped drawer fronts ... this is to be used as a drawer stop ... at this stage it would be necessary to add a filler. Not good. So I re-did the drawer dividers. Here is the rear of the case. The drawers are left long on purpose ... Provision is made for the dividers to be adjustable in length (to close up with the back of the drawer front). They are given rebates to slide further forward ... it will be necessary that they move around 15mm forward (to within 5-6mm of the opening). The rebate is 2mm deep (the depth of the dados), and largely created with a cutting gauge. The blade slices away end grain, and the resulting splitting away makes it easy to chop the remainder. Here are the dividers, further forward than before, and capable of moving a little more still ... The plan was to glue up the case. However, before this is done, it is wise to fit the drawer fronts across the width (the height will be done at a later date). This is the board for the three drawers. Removing one end, the board is set on the case ... It is now apparent that the front of the bevel, where it meets the drawers, is not straight. It is possible to see a small amount of flat ... This is especially noticeable in this corner .. This is fairly easy to remedy ... mark with a pencil, and then plane away the pencil marks ... Perfect now ... The other end needs no more than a smidgeon removed .. The upper side is now treated the same way. Interestingly, this needs no work at all. Time to saw the drawer fronts to size. First step is to mark the middle point of each divider (since the lips will share the divider). The mark can be seen in the rebate ... The drawer board across the front ... Transfer the mark, and then saw the drawer front ... This process is repeated. Here are the three sequential drawer fronts. You can just make out the breaks ... I am happy with this. And so, finally, the case is glued up (Titebond Liquid Hide Glue - reversibility and long open time). Looking like a trussed up fowl .... Regards from Perth Derek
  30. 6 points
    Seats, LCR speakers, and subs are all in, the screen is made and hung, just need to do some wiring in the morning and the Superbowl will be showing in the evening
  31. 5 points
    Okay, so I decided that the wood screws were a mistake. They would prevent movement rather than permit it. So they had to go. This is the exchange screw: a 12 gauge stainless steel wood/metal screw with an all-important flat/domed head. The plan was to use a 3/4" forstner bit. This would leave a wide, flat area for the screw head to move along. The range of movement would be the same as before, about 2mm each side of the screw. A MDF template was made to guide the forstner bit, as it had no support in view of the existing hole ... Drilled to depth ... A steel washer added ... Done ... I had only 15 minutes after work today, but on the weekend, when I get back to this build, I plan to add a third screw behind the front leg. Regards from Perth Derek
  32. 5 points
    It's time for the drawers. Once again there is a challenge. The design calls for drawer fronts that stretch across the front without being broken by drawer dividers. In other words, "lipped drawers". There are two ways to do this. The easy way is to used "planted fronts", that is, attached fronts to the front of a box ... The hard way is to make the drawer front a single piece. This requires rebating the drawer front and forming a half blind dovetail in the side of the rebate. Courtesy of Christian Becksvoort ... I've chosen the high road (sigh). Today I spent my time preparing for three drawers. Why three and not two, as in the original design? Simply because I can build them narrower, and this will make them less likely to rack. They'll end up somewhere around 280mm wide and 290mm deep. I anticipated that 375mm wide and 290mm deep would be a disaster waiting to happen. The only way drawers that dimension could work is on runners, which I do not do. The wood for the drawer front is more Fiddleback Jarrah (by request), while the remainder of the drawer is quarter sawn Tasmanian Oak (which is actually a Eucalyptus, and is quite unstable unless quarter sawn. I keep a stock for drawers). It is a lot like US White Oak in appearance and hardness. I have a bunch of narrower boards, which I re-sawed to make 7mm thick drawer sides, and glued together two to get the height needed ... No clamps, just blue painter's tape, which is stretched across. It pulls the edges together. This is enough for 4 drawer sides (one spare) ... The drawer bottoms will be 1/4" (6.35mm) thick ..... I cannot go metric here as my plough blade is imperial .... this is re-sawn from a wide board, which saves some effort as only two boards are needed for the bottoms (the grain runs across the drawer) ... Same trick with the blue tape, and cauls are also added to keep it flat. This will be sawn up at the time it is needed, and the panel will remain in the cauls until thn. The narrow drawer sides necessitate using drawer slips, which is a strip added to the sides with a groove for the drawer bottom. This also adds extra width as a runner. The slips are made with a plough plane. In this case, I used both a Veritas Small Plow (to plough the groove) and the Veritas Combination Plow (to plough a bead - the bead lies at the join of the slip and drawer bottom). Setting up both save time switching set ups back and forth, and once begun, making these slips was a quick process ... First plough the bead ... A tip on how to avoid over-planing the bead. This comes from David Charlesworth. Scribble pencil along the top of the bead, and when it is gone, the bead is complete ... Now flip the board around to plane the groove ... The first line is where the groove begins, which is 3mm below the bead. There will follow a 1/4" groove, and there will be 4mm below this to support the groove/drawer bottom. This makes the slip a smidgeon over 12mm high. It is 10mm deep, which allows for a 5mm deep groove. As mentioned, once set up, no further marking is necessary. Just plane ... ... and then rip off the slip on the table saw. This is a mock up: the bead at the top and the groove on the side ... I have a strategy to fit the drawer fronts, so that the edges align with each other. It is all about accurate marking out. This will hinge on getting the opening exact, and transferring the respective measurements to their drawer fronts. First order of the day was to fit (what will become) drawer backs to the front between the drawer dividers. This is what the result looked like ... The table saw can cross cut really close, but only a shooting board will get the final dimension ... On to the all-important drawer fronts! I was heartened that all the verticals were indeed vertical still ... well, except for one (if you look carefully, you will see light in the top half) ... This meant a slight adjustment of that side .. again a job for the shooting board. Set one, mark the angle with a small sliding bevel ... ... transfer this to the side of the board, and head for the shooting board. As the side is no longer square, a shim is used to create the needed angle ... A good result ... This is the join I need to manage ... These are the fronts fitted in sequence ... And here were are now, waiting for the next build day ... Regards from Perth Derek
  33. 5 points
    I shoot various guns at my local club. (I hunt with a bow. More challenging) I’ve recently got into pistol shooting, and it’s not uncommon to go through 100 rounds in a visit. I’ve been shooting reloads made by a friend I shoot with. These come in a variety of old 50 round boxes or plastic bins. I thought I'd build something a little more classy to hold 100 rounds for a day’s shooting. This first one was made with reclaimed scrap mahogany from a messed up re-saw job from a project a couple months ago. I built a sled to put them through the planer and ended up with 3/16” boards. From there, dimensions were built around the ammo, 9MM Luger rounds. Consequently, when all was done there’s a lot of odd sizes. If I build more, I’ll tune it up to easier dimensions. A couple people on the FB group expressed interest in building the same, so I reverse engineered it and made a CAD drawing which I was happy to share.
  34. 5 points
    The legs are on. I must admit to mixed feelings at this stage. This is not my style of leg, but it is what my niece wants. Perhaps I will feel differently with a finish on the wood. The tenons were kerfed for a wedge ... Installed in the bases ... And glued into the socket. Note that only the first third is glued. The rear is free to move ... The bases have been shaped to reduce their impact ... The legs were evened up .. Side view from underneath (one does not see the base otherwise) ... Regards from Perth Derek
  35. 5 points
    I finally got around to loading some trap shells for the Beretta, which is the first time I’ve loaded shotgun shells in ages! But the dovetail/wedge idea worked like a champ once I mounted my little Mec600 on it. So far I’ve only loaded 200 of the 5-600 hulls I've had laying around forever, but that’s enough to go shooting this weekend - finally. A little illustration of the setup... I’m using components I bought over 10 years ago so to me it seems like free stuff That jug of Red Dot has a price on it of about $46 of that gives you any indication of its era. The wads and lead are as old. The primers are pretty new, bought sometime during the Obama administration
  36. 5 points
    An hour of that I used to shower and eat. Another hour when to getting trapped in some youtube videos. Luckily today is a new day and I left work after only 10 hours of slaving behind my computer. I was able to get the remaining chairs together tonight. It didn't take more than 45 min or so to hit the last 2 chairs worth of parts with my #4 sanders and then glue the chairs together. I brought them up stairs and positioned them around the table to get an idea of what they will look like. I think I'm gonna like these chairs quite a lot. Getting finish on them is going to bring out a word of character. I also inherited 4 dining chairs from my grandmother. She asked me a while back If i wanted the chairs and not knowing much about them said yes. I knew I was only going to make 6 chairs for a table that potentially could seat 10. I didn't really know what to expect but was presently surprised when I picked them up. She told me that they were her grandmothers and estimated their age around 100 years but that was a guess. There are no makers mark on the chairs so they could have been locally made but who knows. The thing that i really like about the chairs is how delicate they look. The legs are very thin and have some nice subtle details. The downside is they were stripped and refinished, not a bad thing, but when doing so they glue let loose. When the refinisher put them back together they were not very careful removing squeeze out around some of the joints. They stayed on the safe side of just not removing it at all....
  37. 5 points
    That came out real nice Isaac. What a cutie in the test sit picture. By the way I hate to be the one to inform you, but that saw in the forth picture isn't a Veritas Western Style Saw. But hey if you cut those dovetails with that saw who am I to criticize.
  38. 5 points
    On the sidewalk in front of a local redneck bar...
  39. 5 points
    Last weekend i had a fishing outing with some friends. This past week was completely occupied by wedding planning and meetings with people that want a lot of my money no new band saw this year well maybe . Megan has probably gotten sick of me saying "Bah! I'm never going to get those chairs done." So she let me have all weekend in the shop Starting Saturday. The last two days have meant a good amount of progress on the chairs. I started off getting all the side rails cut to length. The side rails have a 5 degree angle cut on them which gives the seat a taper from 17" at the front to 14" at the rear. This really helps the look of the chair but makes planning the side rails a bit more difficult. After I had them all cut to length I cut joinery in the side rails. Above the side rails aren't ripped to final width. I didn't bother getting the exact width as I knew i'd have to route out the shape on my side rail routing sled. This is the same method that I used for the back legs so I didn't bother taking pictures of it. It's as simple as rough cutting at the band saw and then clamping the piece in place and running it across a template bit. The joiner has space in the center for a reason. I wanted the back rail joinery to squeeze between the joinery for the side rails. The joint of the side rails to both the front and rear leg are the most important to get right on a chair. These are the joints that get stressed the most when a person puts the chair on 2 legs. Now i'm one of those awful people so i have to design these chairs to at least withstand me. This picture shows some of that joiner interference. The floating tenons that are going into the front and rear legs from the sides are 1.25" wide and 2" long. This is a smaller tenon than what I used in my prototype #3 and I've been balancing that thing on it's rear legs every day for the last month. I really want to see how well the joinery is going to last. In the last month we've also had some cold snaps that have fluctuated the relative humidity in the house 15% so I'm pretty confidant this joinery will last. If it doesn't my shop isn't far away. After cutting joinery on the side rails and the rear legs it is time to mill the front legs and get joinery cut in them. While doing this i managed to $#)@ up one of the legs multiple times. Not once or twice, THREE times I put the mortise in the wrong location.... Luckily it was all in a position where the side rail would cover it up so I just filled the mortise with some floating tenon stock and tried again. The integrity of the joint should be good enough. I'm not really too concerned about this location on the front leg. After getting the side joinery cut it was time to dry fit the sides and measure for the front rail. I wasn't sure how well I built the chairs so I made sure to dry assemble each chair to check the front rail spacing. Turns out I was pretty dang good. 4 Chairs were 14_7/8" 1 chair was 14_3/4" the final chair was 15". With the complexity of the back I'm glad i built the chair from the back forward opposed to from the front back like Marc did in the guild series. I also have ZERO idea why he used screws on the head rest... it was very easy to assemble the chair in this manner and avoid using screws and plugs. After I got the front rails milled and cut to length it was time to template route them. This was done the same was as all the other template routing operations. Rough cut band saw and then router table. With the front rails done I'm officially done with template routing on this project!!!! Making the sleds with the toggle clamps was the best thing I ever did. The template routing went FAST and easy. There was a lot of alternating grain which lead to a few tricky situations. The sleds gave me the confidence to do a LOT of climb cutting. I'd say 50% of my time at the router table I was doing a climb cut so I didn't blow out grain. Some may think that it's dangerous and I was doing it wrong but I never once had an issue with it. I also had zero grain blow out. Here is a picture of all my template sleds. Ok so front rail joinery is going to be difficult. I don't want the side rail joinery to interfere with the front rail joinery. This leaves me little space so To make the joint hopefully strong enough I opted to go for a wide floating tenon. The tenon is about 2.5" wide but only 10mm deep. I think a picture will help this make the most sense. Here is the side rail joinery. The floating tenons for the side will go in first and then the front tenon will go in next. Yep i use metric and imperial on the same project many times. All of my rails are inset 3mm. I could give a leap what the unit is I just use what is in front of me and honestly despite what everyone argues both systems work and have their place though I MUCH prefer fractions as half of 7/13 is really easy to compute (I'm using prime numbers to give a good example as 7/13 is not an even decimal but 7/26 is exactly half and is fast and easy to compute). Also rulers with 64's are easy to read but half decimals of mm doesn't really make sense and they are hard to read. Even MM get hard to read on a ruler as the ticks are kinda small but it's difficult to differentiate between 2 and 3 as well as 7 and 8 mm, well at least it is for me. Ok now that I've lost everyone, I've got the joinery all figured out. So now it's just to throw a round over on all the parts. I did the 1/16" that I did on the rear legs. After the round over was complete I took out my sanding blocks. We've gout #4 (50 degree) and #4 (45 degree). I typically only use the 45 degree grit but sometimes there is a nasty bit here and there and the 50 degree git cleans things up a bit nicer. It's easier to have 2 smoothing plains .... eerrrr sanding blocks, than adjusting the depth of cut on one. The extra 5 degrees on the LN frog does help a LOT. Running the 2 side by side it's painfully obvious. So having 2 i set the Stanley to a bit heavier of a cut to make things go a bit faster and then follow behind it with the LN. It's 2 swipes to finish ready maybe 3. Also BD planes are far superior in every way to BU planes (this is just trolling). I got the first chair in the clamps. Glue up took a bit longer than I wanted it to but was uneventful.
  40. 5 points
    And I just got another one done, this time out of sycamore.
  41. 5 points
    So I found a woodworkers club in my area and I didn’t even know anything like this was out there. I am not trying to advertise so I hope this doesn’t create any issues but I was curious if there are clubs like this in other areas as well? If so do any of you belong to these types of clubs? I have decided I am going to join for several reasons but mainly because they have several courses they offer to help you learn different things and for me it will help me learn more about everything I am using and how to use it properly.
  42. 5 points
    Picture is not from today, as this thread asks about, but from day before yesterday. My clients that own this house have several years worth of work on my waiting list. They want a Cypress Shingle roof, as it had originally. I didn't put this roof on it, but have needed to fix it several times. The edge of these steel shingles were blown up in a previous, moderately strong storm. Knowing that a much more severe storm was on the way, there was little to do but include this in several days of preparation. Not having time to set up scaffolding, I rented this lift. I want one. Park it, turn a key, get in the cage, push some buttons, and you're up where you need to work. The clients are talking about buying one now. It only took me a couple of hours to fix this problem, so I took it down on our point, and did some limbing with my little Makita battery powered chainsaw. I could probably make a living with nothing more than the lift, and little chainsaw. New, these are about 32k. Rental is $210 a day, but I have to drive 45 minutes, one way, to get it. Platform height is supposed to be up to 45 feet. I think that's with the feet on tiptoes, and the extension of the arm out. You can see the shiny metal where that part is telescoped out a little in the picture. These soffits are 27 feet off the ground. We had some wind damage on our place from the extreme winds, but the two pieces of tin blown off the mechanic shop were blown off after the rain had gone through, so no real damage to anything inside. I have the new tin ready to go back on tomorrow, after the wind calms down some. Mike took the photo, and as you can see, he makes no claim to be a photographer.
  43. 5 points
    It worked! It looks so much better! There aren't the huge black splotches that I had before. I probably should have waited to have better light to do it in but here is one coat. Thanks so much for all of your advice and support. I was ready to throw in the towel after redoing it twice already and each time it was getting worse! It's not perfect, but way better than my last attempt.
  44. 5 points
    We've been gone all day down to Natchitoches to tour a shop and a couple of galleries as part of our Woodworking Club we started a little over a year ago. Saw some really cool shop designed and built equipment, too - old iron! Anyway, now that we're back home I headed out to the shop to do a more complex inlay with my newly discovered technique. This is a treble clef about 7" tall and a lot going on for an inlay. I cut the treble clef and promptly broke it in one place so ignore that. I figured it would suffice for my test. I cut the pocket just like I did on the earlier simple test - 2D Pocket to clear followed by 3D Contour with two passes around the sidewall. It was snug but fit, so I did another pass on the sidewall with Stock to Leave set at -0.001" and now it fits just fine. Since I don't want to break it again I didn't press it into place fully but it does fit with enough room for glue. I'll do some others later. David
  45. 5 points
    The basic case complete ... My niece's expressed wish is to have a table front looking as if it was faced by a single board. The original model for this project has two drawers. I did not see this working here since, as their width would be greater than their depth, two drawers would likely rack. Consequently, I decided to build three drawers of equal width (I considered a narrow drawer in the centre, but decided this would be too busy). In order that the figure of the drawer fronts would not be interrupted by the drawer dividers, the drawers are to have half-blind dovetailed side lips, such as these ... The drawers will each have a side lip of 6mm. This requires a 6mm wide side panel on each side of the case, and two 12mm wide drawer dividers. This will allow three drawers to run adjacent to one another, and the three fronts to be cut from a single board. The drawer fronts will come from this board ... Below are the panels for fitting ... It occurred to me later (of course!) that the 6mm end panels could have been made to run with the grain direction of the case. Being the same Jarrah, this would have counted for any expansion/contraction, and there would not be any danger of movement being intrusive. Too late. It's glued. So I did the next best thing, and planed 2mm off the upper and lower edges. This will permit enough movement, if any (it is a small and thin panel). There will not be any gaps seen as the front edges will later receive edging, which will be used as a depth stop. Frankly, the hardest part of this section of the project was accurate marking out of the two central drawer dividers. These need to be both perfectly parallel, and also aligned vertically (the lower panel with the upper panel). There is a second area that needed to checked, which is important for drawers to work well, and this that the lower panel is flat - that is, does not have any hills. I learned my lesson the hard way about this. All good. The way I go about marking the dados for the dividers is to make templates for their position. These are used on both the lower panel, as below, and then the upper panel ... The process is self-explanatory ... The dados are knifed deeply ... Chisel walls cut ... .. and then the waste is removed with a router plane ... The dados are just 2mm deep. That is deep enough to prevent any movement. This process is quick and relaxing (compared to setting up and using a power router). Once done, the process is repeated on the upper panel ... All ready for a dry fit. The rear of the case ... ... and the front ... Happily, all is square ... Tomorrow I shall glue it up. Regards from Perth Derek
  46. 5 points
    Update on the progress here. Sold the saw and workbench for $600 on craigslist. The buyer sent me a text and said he wanted it and never even tried to haggle on the price. I listed it for $600 and that is what I got.
  47. 5 points
    I've been slowly figuring out the details that I want to include on this build as I go. The main thing that needed figuring out was how to ease the edges of the work pieces and what to do with the tops of the legs. I ended up taking one of my french curves and finding a layout I liked. I then made a template and drew on some reference lines. This allows me to strike a line on 2 faces of the end of each leg to make the top of the leg detail. I cut it free hand on the band saw and then clean up with some sand paper. This goes quick and it's not worth trying to figure out a router template. Some hand sanding is done to soften edges. The next big hurdle i was dealing with is how much to round over parts. Some of the parts like the top of the crest rail and the sides of the back rests I wanted to have a bit more of a round over. This will allow the thicker material to look thinner as well as softening the edges more of a part that a person will interact with more regularly. I was searching through bits online to find what I was looking for and couldn't find anything. I wanted a thumbnail type profile but smaller. I ended up finding the profile I wanted in my router bit drawer. I bought a picture frame bit a while back and the top by the bearing is exactly what I was looking for. The profile put the curve on the top of the top rail and the sides of the back rests perfectly. The rest of the edges are rounded over with a 1/16" radius round over bit. It's very slight but softens the edge perfectly. In between these steps surface prep needs to be done on the back rest parts to prep for assembly. After the back is assembled getting my #4 in there to clean up surfaces would be hard. Notable the surface of the legs was not perfectly smooth off the routing template. Dust would some times cause the edge to have a slit ridge or other imperfections. This is quickly solved with a hand plane. The surfaces that receive joinery are left as is to maintain squareness. My work bench is a pile of parts, hand planes, and sanding supplies working on getting all the parts prepped for assembly. I'm quite glad I built my workbench before starting this project. It has been an invaluable tool. To this point I've glued together 2 chair backs. They are sanded rounded and ready for the final joinery and assembly to be done.
  48. 4 points
    Mark, you recall that this table will be a wedding present? Well, the groom’s father is a woodworker as keen as you and I, and very knowledgeable . No doubt he and I will at some stage be discussing the build in some detail. Regards from Perth Derek
  49. 4 points
    Just about got it finished. I had to order washers from Grizzly so it would mount up to my liking. Just need to get some bolts tomorrow and I will be all set.
  50. 4 points