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So I've found my niche. Dice bowls for gamers. Keep your dice contained in style. I've been getting more and more commissions, and I'm not complaining! This weekend I'll be working with some honey locust, paduk and spalted ambrosia maple. Here are some of my latest.

Got it finished and in place. I used flood cwf-uv finish because i got it free and why not. Starting to get it filled up.

Ok, getting back to the Hank after a detour with a surfboard. This post is picture heavy, covering the glue up of the chair sides, pattern routing of sides, 42 degree cuts for the backrest joint, fitting sides to back, cutting out contour of back and putting scallop in backrest. Dominos join the sides, culls cut out of the pieces to help with the clamping of awkward pieces, titebond 3 used; Here's what the weird shaped sides look like after glueup. Next I drew the outline of the pattern on the sides and cut the chair sides close to the line on the bandsaw and routed the pieces using the template. Cleaned up the template then routed; Next it's cutting the 42 degree joint for the backrest. It's a hairy operation putting the front leg against the aux fence on the table saw; To cut the opposite side you need to reposition the aux fence forward and start the cut between the back leg and the backrest, hard to explain so I'll let the picture do the explaining, here's the setup; Final cut joint surfaces, two sides put together to confirm correct angle and symmetry; Sides ready for dominos; Backrests were also cut at a 42 degree cut, much more simple operation and just used the miter gauge on the table saw. Here's one joint dry fit; Next it was back to the bandsaw to cut out the backrest profile; Outline for a scalloped/dished out area at the top of the backrest; Completed this operation using the Festool RAS 115, my favorite gross shaping tool. These two pics are after shaping one of the backrests. There was absolutely no cleanup of dust needed, the vac picked up almost all of it. This is not doctored, literally finished shaping and then took pic. This is why I love this tool, rapid stock removal and minimal dust; There will be dust if you are shaping smaller pieces, but with a large flat area like this dust is negligible. Next job is to glue up the seat frame, I already have those pieces roughed out. Thanks for looking.

This is not my business, it's my hobby. I'm in my early 50's and do all this work myself. I really look at it as a form of exercise and satisfying my woodworking addiction. I have no desire to do this as a business, but I hope to continue to build for family and friends (3 kids that are between 18-23). My real addiction is probably not knowing when to say enough is enough. So my hoarding is basically the following; self-induced hard labor that keeps me out of trouble, causing me to sweat profusely in the hot/humid August weather, and feeding the woodworking bug. In the end it's probably better than a gym membership!

Spent the morning today reorganizing my drying lumber stock. Taking assessment of it I've come to realize I have a problem. I hear the first step in confronting one's addiction you need to first realize you have a problem. I guess there are worse problems to have, and I realize the wood should not go bad as long as I store it correctly, but still it's becoming an issue. Managing all this wood takes time and effort. Here's an few pictures so you can see how bad the addiction has become; My "drying shed" (now a storage shed) is now almost full of lumber that is 2 plus years old stock. From the left I have 2 stacks of hickory (some pecan on the bottom), then a stack of red oak, cherry, white oak, poplar and more cherry. I'm in the process of filling this up from other piles. Some of the cherry stock is pretty marginal (second small pile from the right) as I harvested some marginal logs a few years back, but I will salvage some wood from those boards. All this was milled via chainsaw; Here's a small pile I've been picking at that needs to be moved into the "drying shed", 1 cherry log and 1 walnut, milled again with a chainsaw; This pile is all norway maple, milled again the hard way; And my new location for drying piles, 3 piles, the first in the foreground all walnut, the second walnut, white oak and some cherry, and the last all white oak. The first pile was milled via chainsaw, the second is a mix of chainsaw milled and bandsaw milled, and the last is all bandsaw milled, this wood needs another year of drying; I've been moving stock that is soon to be used, approx 3 years drying time, into my garage. Here's a mix of chainsaw milled wood; Finally, I move stock into my shop, where I run a dehumidifier and have some climate control. This wood is rotated and I try to let it sit here at least a few months, getting it down to about 9%. That's the best I can do without a kiln but it works fine for me at that moisture content. If I bought kiln dried wood and stored it here it would go up to 8-9% anyway, unless I had a completely climate controlled shop. This wood is a mix of chainsaw milled and about 150 bf of figured stock I purchased from @Spanky, On another wall I have paulownia and tucked away in the attic space above this I have some norway maple, white pine, yellow pine and 4/4 cherry. The cherry stock up in the attic is about 300 bf and is 15 plus years old that I pick away at when I need 4/4 stock. Most of my stock is 8/4-9/4; So I'm in the process of working through this addiction and any advice will help. But I really don't know if there is a cure as I've got 5 walnut logs sitting on my property now that I will mill up with the chainsaw this winter. I'm beginning to think I'm a lost soul.

Bmac I’m not sure but I think I have two board feet more than you.

I was going to vote cherry it's a good medium color and pairs very well grain and texture wise with walnut. The are a match made like lamb and tunafish.

Yes, it is a different kind of build. Using the dominos makes the joinery easy, but I think it takes some of the fun out of it. Nevertheless, this style lends itself to many different designs. Looking at Jory's website, if I had to pick something he made that I would really want to make, it probably would be one of his couches. They have a really nice look to them and you could probably figure it out on your own after doing this chair. Looks better to me than this chair.

I am in awe. It's great to push inot new territory and have it all work out.

I've been watching the guild video's and I might have to make one of these just for the challenge. They look pretty straight forward but its kind of deceiving there is a lot that goes into one of these. As usual your execution is top notch thanks for sharing.

They really look nice Dave! I know the first time I fumed i was like or crap its green LOL but the garnet shellac really gives it a nice end color. I'm with @RichardA can't wait to see them with the glass.

Excellent color. I love the look. Can't wait for the cherry on top.

In the pictures one looks a little darker than the other, it’s mostly the light in the shop but one is slightly darker, and I found a couple of small spots I missed with the shellac but that can be dealt with easy enough I think, just thought I would throw in this shot of them together

In the tent with ammonia for about 6 hours and the resultsvery pleased with the results, turned a nice dark khaki color, the test piece in the middle is the garnet shellac I mixed with one coat of satin ARSthey sure make a nice pair I think, I can enjoy putting finish on now, fuming, mixing my own shellac were both new to me and something I will do again as I love the look, thanks to @pkinneb and @K Cooper for the help and advice, the next pictures will be the completed lamps with the glass installed, Thanks to everyone for following along on this long ride

No direct experience to share on that model, but here are some questions to ask: 1. Is it powerful enough to cut the material you want to use? 2. Is the table large enough to safely support the size pieces you need? 3. Will the fence move smoothly, lock solidly, and stay parallel to the blade? If all 3 are 'yes' answers, move on to inspection for wear items, bearings and such, since it is used. Also ensure the safety features (riving knife, blade guard, etc...) are in place. If you fully understand the implications of those parts being removed, I wouldn't consider it a deal-breaker, but it does de-value the machine.

I had the 745 which is the newer version of this saw and i assume there are some minor differences but on the whole they look similar. I made mine work fore a few years while i build a fair amount of furniture and some kitchen cabinets so they are capable. They are essentially a circular saw motor attached directly to an arbor. Mine had little run out and decent enough power as long as i used think kerf blades and didn't feed to fast. Make sure the fence hasn't been damaged as it's difficult to use anything but the one that is on it. You might be able to get replacement parts but if a bracket is damaged or something major is bent it'll be a nightmare. If there isn't any apparent damage it's probably ok but make sure not to over pay on the used market. People tend to value their possessions a lot higher than if it isn't their own. It is made in Germany it can't be that bad..... those Germans know a thing or two about engineering i hear.

These are what we're replacing. The original sash have 5/8" wide muntins, and one of the reasons for the importance of this house is the transition in architectural details from the early 19th Century to the mid 19th Century. This is one of the last things we're changing that was done to this house in the 1980's. Two windows had been replaced on the back of the house. The sash have large, over inch and a quarter wide, ugly muntins in the replacement sash.

That fabric is the windscreen fabric you see on fences, esp baseball outfield fences. It allows air to move through it. So I use that to shade the piles from the direct sun but still allowing air flow. I don't need to put it all the way around, I typically just put it on the southern facing side of the pile. Direct sun will typically cause checking and uneven drying. Boy I wish I knew how many board feet I have, but I don't think my guess would be accurate at all. I've never been someone who has purchased lumber, when I started woodworking I did it with my Grandfather and he milled all his wood from his farm. So I've milled basically almost all the wood I've worked with and have never had a good feel for board feet. I think when you buy it you understand board feet and what certain amounts of it look like. Also this wood has a lot of defects, board feet isn't as accurate of a measurement. Usable board feet and total board feet do vary significantly with rough milled lumber. Chainsaw milling is something I got into about 5 years ago, my Grandfather had passed and I didn't have the equip to move logs but I had access to the farm. Get the chainsaw first, you said you had access to logs, milling will save you more money than the planer. Well if that means if I place an order with you I'll have more? Still waiting on those Red Gum pics.

Bmac. Not to worry. From your answers, keep doing what you are doing.Most importantly you like what you are doing. See if you can addict someone younger than you in preparation for a future succession. You are young enough not to need to hurry. It might be fun to teach a kid...And addict them too...

Turned out quite well! Really dresses up the yard compared to an open stack.

So how many board feet total, just W.A.G (wild a** guess) it? I was worried about my self but now you make me feel a lot better. I estimate that i'm somewhere between 1,000 and 1,500 BF. I also want to get into chainsaw milling very soon. I've almost pulled the trigger on a 661 multiple times but know i need a 15" planer first. Though the wood does have to dry a long time so maybe the chainsaw is the better first buy.... bah decisions!

It's hard to have too many molding planes. I bought most of mine from the UK, back when "small packets" could be shipped for 6 to 8 dollars. I have them stored in waterproof boxes, cleaned before being stored, and desiccant canisters in the boxes. I don't need to look at them, or have them sitting out to collect dust. I just want them to only need sharpening to use. There aren't many that I paid over $15 for. IT seems like they stored them in houses over there, whereas most of the ones in this country have been stored in barns. I never felt like I had time to recondition them. This box has my hollows and rounds. I'm not a collector. It doesn't matter to me who made them, how old they are, or if a set is any kind of match. I just want to be able to use one that I need.

It’s better to have wood in times of no money than money in times of no wood, I don’t see a problem except that maybe you need to build a large dedicated wood shed to store it all in one place, just make it big enough

This morning, I modified a sash molding plane to match the molding profile I'm copying. The one we need is an odd ogee (all curves). I think whatever plane they used for them had worn down to its own particular shape. I had made a mold from one of the windows, and sent that to Whiteside to see about making a set of custom router bits, like I've used before. I only wanted one of each. Whiteside used to do that, but have updated their production equipment since the last time I bought some, and they now only make orders in multiples of six each, so they sent my mold down the road to another place. I never got around to ordering the bits, and now I'm glad I didn't. They had sent back drawings, for my approval, that looked like they were okay, but all the curved shapes were constant radius-es. I modified an ovolo (sharp inside corners) sash plane that I already have a set of bits to match, because I wouldn't need it again, since I have the bits. I got a test piece to the point that it matched the drawing exactly, but still didn't look right to me. We decided to go back to the 1850 house, and make another mold. In the process, I thought of how to simply make the mold so I could use it to mark the copes by. I didn't think to take one of the sized muntins with me, but the mold was still pliable enough when we got back, that I clamped it around one of the muntin blanks, and will let it set up over the weekend. Oatey plumbers epoxy putty is about the ideal stuff to make such molds from. I had one of the girls where we ate lunch to give me a piece of the really thin plastic wrap they use to for a release film on the old window sash. I hope the pictures tell the story. I used some of my small hollow planes, but the one most useful was a nice little 1/4" skew rabbet plane. Still needed to follow them was a high-tech shaper of sandpaper on a hand split waxing applicator. I think it was the first time I ever used the rounded corners on my CBN wheel, but they turned out to be just the thing for the job on the iron. The molding plane will get a little more modification on Monday.

Vinyl decals. It was trial and error, but I've found what's worked best is to finish the bottom with a gloss lacquer and let it cure completely first, apply the decal and finish it with a touch of heat from a hair dryer.

Looks good, I think you'll need more firewood than that for a MN winter. Now that you built that you'll need to get to work to fill it up.

Tiger maple does not look good painted!

Very nice!

It appears you do but hey there are worse things you could be hoarding LOL Like JohnG said as a fellow wootalkonline member always looking to help I would be more than happy to have you send some of it my way

I never found the fence on my LN router plane very useful. In fact, its whereabouts are a mystery to me, I haven't seen it for at least a couple of years.

Well I dove into the deep end of the pool tonight and entered my first piece (Jewelry Chest) into the Minnesota Woodworkers Guild annual Northern Woods Exhibition April 25-28th This is way out of my comfort zone but in an effort to push myself even further in my woodworking I thought it might be helpful to get feedback from woodworkers much more talented than I as well as from the public. Here's hoping I don't regret this LOL

I bought fancy lag bolts from Le Depot a Domicile.

All set up

My Dad was a wood hoarder all his life. One old stable that was full of wood did collapse on it. If he had known about Spanky, before he left here in 2006, he would have kept a truck on the road, back and forth. I've moved some of it here, but most has just gone to waste in deteriorating old buildings.