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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/05/19 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    Today was the end of construction. Tomorrow I will give a sanding just to give me a chance to go over it with a fine tooth comb. Then a coat of shellac before spraying the finish. Then off to the upholsterers.
  2. 6 points
    Let's keep this ball rolling, a couple hours of work. Now that I've moved into the sculpting stage I get excited and anxious to see the finished product. I now have all the parts made up except the headrest. Both rockers are glued up, the arm is ready to glue to the chair and the spindles are cut out and waiting for the rasps. But before I move forward with any more glue ups I need to shape and sculpt all the leg/seat joints. You really want to do this before adding the arms as it is much easier to get to these joints without the arms attached. Before I get into the sculpting here's a quick pic of a rocker glue up. I always do a dry run, if something is going to crack or split I'd rather find out in the dry run! Dry run; Ok, safe to glue; Now to shaping/sculpting. I will start with the back leg to seat joint. This is the easier joint of the two to shape. I'll try to show different stages, hopefully it makes sense; Joint before any sculpting, right after glue up; To reduce the bulk of excess I use the RAS, I can go right up to the seat with the RAS; Literally 2 minutes later, rough shaping with 50 grit done; That was the joint on the top of the seat, here is the underside of the seat, the one part of the joint has been shaped, the other part hasn't been touched yet; Literally 2 minutes later, same joint, different picture angle, just shaped with the RAS; So once the RAS has done the bulk of reduction it's on to the rasps and my small sander with an interface pad on it. Above the seat I sand and shape up to the arm joint and below the seat I shape and sand half way to bottom of back leg. This pic is the top side of the seat, both joints are now sanded to 120, still have more finer sanding to do but we are looking good now; Another angle, again this is sanded to 120. Trying to develop a graceful flow and curves from the leg to the seat; Now to the front legs. We have a lot of bulk here and we need to be aggressive. This pic is prior to any shaping; I first attack the sides of the joint with the RAS; Here you can see the width of the leg now matches much better the area of the leg above and below the joint; Now you can notice I've started to blend in the leg/seat interface; And the inside of the front leg to seat joint, sanded to 120; So it took me 1 hr to get the back legs cleaned up and sanded to 120. It took me 1 hr to get the front leg finished on the inside but still rough on the outer side. Probably have another 45 minutes on the one front leg to get it completely shaped and sanded to 120. Once I get all the leg/seat joints shaped and sanded to 120, I'll sand to 180 and then glue on the arms. Then it will be on to shaping the arm/back leg joint and starting the headrest. I haven't found time to start on the spindles, but I think that will change soon. I still need to glue the riser strips on the rockers, will look to do that soon also. Total time sitting at 25 hrs. Thanks for looking.
  3. 4 points
    Solid plan.. The 2 ribs on the ends could be done away with and BB ends put on the top. Slotted screws should work fine as well.
  4. 4 points
    Rocko, I've done my share of construction lumber stuff. Definitely a different world than hardwoods, but still doable. You must understand that construction lumber, yellow pine or SPF, is usually farm raised, and grown fast. The result is softer summer growth, harder winter growth, as mentioned earlier. Some tricks I've used to achieve a smoother stain include: Sanding to higher grits, say 600 or so. This burnishes the wood fibers so that they soak up less color. More even, may need more coats. Use a sealer. A coat of thin dewaxed shellac is good for this. Different means, same end. Use chemical colorant in place of pigment stains. Soaking a ball of steel wool for a day or two in a quart of vinegar produces iron acetate. Applying this to raw wood will react with tannins in the wood and darken it. Tone and shade vary with how much tannin is already present. On white pine, I have successfully produced a color similar to the left end of the sample board you pictured. YMMV. Tinted clear coats. Perhaps the best way to get a good, even finish, but has a learning curve. And finally, paint. If your wife likes rustic and colors, check into "Milk Paint". It goes on thin, penetrates the surface a bit, and can be top coated with a clear polyurathane or shellac. Having said all that, one of my best pieces is made mostly of white pine shelving boards, painted, with a walnut top. Setting the piece off with a pretty stick of hardwood works well with painted bases. Re: slabs. My advice is don't go there. All the rage right now, but buying thick slices of tree trunk can get expensive quickly, and they are usually not well dried. Warped, cracked furniture often results. Example- I built a heavy oak table for a friend. Needed slabs for thickness, and paid almost 5 times what the same volume of standard dimension lumber would cost. Plus, the table top cupped badly after 6 months of HVAC, I had to rip it into three parts and re-square the edges to make it flat again.
  5. 3 points
    I thought that the build might begin with preparing the panels, since there has been some interest in the past shown in the shorter Hammer K3 sliders. Mine has a 49" long slider and a 31" wide table for the rip fence. The build is an entry hall table for a wedding present for a niece. Her choice was this mid century modern piece, which will be the basis for the build. My job is to re-invent it somewhat. She wants Jarrah, and I have managed to find something spectacular ... a subtle fiddleback (curly) set of boards that will make a book match (as they are only about 9" wide each). Most imagine that the value of a slider lies with cross-cutting. It certainly is so. However it is the rip using the slider - rather than the rip fence - which is so amazing. One side of each board was to be ripped on the slider, before being jointed and resawn. Ripping on the slider is such an advantage with life edges. No jigs required. No rip fence to slide against. Just clamp the board on the slider, and run it past the saw blade. The long sliders can complete the rip in one quick pass. It occurred to me that I should take a few photos of ripping to width since the boards are longer than the slider. Here you can see that it comes up short ... In actuality, with the blade raised fully, there is a cut of nearly 54" ... The solution is to use a combination square to register the position of the side of the board at the front, and then slide the board forward and reposition it ... ... and repeat at the rear ... The result is a pretty good edge, one that is cleaned up on the jointer in 1 or 2 passes, and then ready for resawing ... This is the glued panel. It is long enough to make a waterfall two sides and top section (still oversize) ... The following photo shows the lower section at the rear. What I wanted to show is the way boards are stored. Since I shall not get back to this build until next weekend, all boards are stickered and clamped using steel square sections. The steel sections are inexpensive galvanised mild steel. These are covered in vinyl duct tape to prevent any marks on the wood and ease in removing glue ... Done for the day ... Enough for the case (top/bottom and sides), which will be through dovetailed with mitred corners, the stock for 4 legs (yet to be turned), and rails for the legs (the legs will be staked mortice-and-tenon) and attached with a sliding dovetail. Regards from Perth Derek
  6. 3 points
    Whenever I'm doing a Maloof piece I always search the web for info and pointers. I ran across this video. I don't do this yet with my arms, but that is some impressive bandsawing!
  7. 3 points
    If you look past the fog on the left you can see my closest neighbor. Next picture is what they get to look at.
  8. 3 points
    Quick update to cover what else I completed this weekend. After sculpting the arms I drove the screws for them. So I'm done with the arms now until I glue them on and finalizing the shape. What I like to do next is glue the legs on to the seat blank. I'm jumping ahead of Marc's order, but since I've got the seat refined and the arms done I want to get moving on the sculpting of the chair. For this glueup I've tried different glues. Titebond III would work well here but the problem I've had with that is I've had trouble getting the legs to seat fully into the joint. I think the tight fit, the way titebond causes the wood to swell, and the large surface area of these joints makes this difficult. I've used hide glue and that is a little easier to get the joints fully closed. But the easiest glue to use is epoxy. There is no swelling of the wood and the joint slides closed better with this glue than the others. So I'll be using System 3, my go to epoxy. I like it because it has a thicker consistency. Also I made sure I sanded all my pencil lines off my legs, in the past working with light woods like maple I've not cleaned those lines off and they are visible after glueup, meaning more sculpting. Ready for glueup; Here's the consistency of System 3; Clamped up and joints look tight; Now while that glueup is curing, I went to a rocker glueup. In doing this project consider gluing up the rockers early, it makes for more efficient shop time. I already cut my strips for the rocker lamination, just needed to do a little more prep work. When cutting the strips on the bandsaw I cut a strip from each side of the board the jointed both sides of the boards, then cut, then jointed.... Here are my laminates; So I have laminates that are jointed on one side and bandsaw cut surface on the other side. Now I have a nice enough surface that I could of glued them up like that, Maloof actually did this. I don't have a drum sander, which would be the perfect tool to put a more even surface on the bandsaw cut side. I could of run them through the planer on a sled, but with the curly figured nature of these strips I was concerned about that. So I used a neat little attachment for the drill press. Brock recommended this in his video for his build. I've used it in my other rocker builds. It is called Luthier's Friend sanding station; It mounts on the drill press and is perfect for the 1 1/2" rocker laminates. It's a poor man's spindle sander with a fence. You can adjust the thickness by moving the back fence; Here's a pic with a laminate being sanded; So after the sanding of the laminates I glued up one rocker. I used Titebond II Extend. @Chet, I forgot to order some Unibond One, I wanted to try it for this build. Oh well there will be another time. I've used the TB II Extend with good success here. No pics of this glueup, but i'm about done with the "parts" of the chair. I only need to glueup one more rocker and make the headrest, right now it's all about sculpting. I'm excited to get on to this stage. I'll focus first on the leg to seat interfaces. Once I'm done there I'll glue on the arms and sculpt this area. This post covered 2 hrs of shop time, for a total of 23 hrs. Thanks for looking.
  9. 2 points
    Finally home from a long work road trip! Had some catching up to do! A few projects to get done that have been piling up! Only the bathroom vanity was done for YouTube.. 1. Table Lazy Susan and a cutting board for 2 different clients.. 2. A thread storage cabinet for my wife's quilting room 3. Bathroom Vanity for a client. 4. And, a floating picture frame for a family member..
  10. 2 points
    That's an interesting question. I think when sculpting I don't look at the joint or the grain, I just try to see the curve or silhouette. Look at the silhouette and feel it with your hand, that helps a lot.
  11. 2 points
    I think your plan is pretty solid. Although Kev simply suggested bb ends as an alternative, I agree with Chet in that I think it would tend to change the style. This will be a journal, right? What is your wood of choice here?
  12. 2 points
    Fantastic build, this is woodworking at its finest, and I’m holding you responsible for turning my brain to jello
  13. 2 points
    I think I'd be changing shorts several times if I tried that. But what a master.
  14. 2 points
    Trenched the footings on October 3rd 2018, had a lite shower that night and the boys wanted to wait for a day to let things dry before setting forms...........then we had 8 inches the next day and night. Been fighting the weather since then but it is turning out really nice.
  15. 2 points
    Big changes in the shop. Old work bench had to be moved out of the way. I got the mortises done on the bottom of the tops to get mounted to the base. Marc did them with the router but i REALLY hate cutting mortises with a router so i decided to go full Luddite and cut them with a chisel. One is quite loose.... but it's on the back slab. One is quite tight but sitting on the slab sent it home. After the mortises i hogged out the groove for the sliding dead man and then the base got moved in place. Slabs on top. Now I need to focus my attention on getting the chop shaped. I cut the 4/4 curly stock a bit larger than the 8/4 stock. I used the washer trick to offset the curve i created and shaped everything up. I forgot to take a picture of the detail so I'll have to post one later but this is what the front looks like. Next up is flattening the top. I need to make a planer sled and get some 2x material for rails. My front slab ended up with a slight twist maybe 1/8" so I'll have to address that at least.
  16. 2 points
    You are right to be concerned about the weight factor when it comes to books though. A lot of folks don't realize how heavy a 3 foot shelf lined with books actually is. Even 3 feet of paperbacks can weigh over 35 pounds; hardcovers more, of course. Box or finger joinery is quite strong. You are probably not using plywood but, this wall hanging tool box has served me well in a couple of locations. Doors still swing well and close/align correctly despite being loaded with tools.
  17. 1 point
    In July, I posted a router-based method I used to remove the waste from hand cut hand-blind sockets (link). This involved orientating the boards vertically and routing into the end grain. This necessitated a rather clumsy piece of work-holding - which, as I explained at the time, was difficult to avoid as the end grain was not square to the sides, as is usual with drawer front. The bow fronted drawers created ends which were angled.With the usual square drawer fronts, both Bill and Roger on the forum preferred to place their boards flat on the bench and rest the router on the edge. Roger's photos ...However, this method leaves is too much waste remaining at the sides of the socket - as this is angled and the router bit is vertical - which means that there is more work needed to clear ...Bill's objection - that holding the work piece vertically looked too clumsy for easy work - continued to ring in my head. The horizontal method certainly had the advantage of being more stable. So, now that my then-current project, the Harlequin Table, is complete, between pieces I take some time to solve these problems. Which I have, and hopefully in a way that others will find helpful.Just as an aside, my preference is hand tool work, and generally if the wood is willing this is my go-to. The method here is not to replace all hand work, but to make the process easier in particular circumstances. Some of the timbers I work, especially for cases and drawer fronts, are extremely hard, and it is not viable to chop them out, particularly when there are several to do. It is not simply that this is time consuming - after all, this is just my hobby - but that it is hard on the chisels. I use machines to compliment hand tools. There is a time and place for everything.Let's take it from the beginning:Step 1: saw the pins ...Step 2: deepen the kerfs with (in my case) a kerfing chisel (see my website for more info) ...Now we come to the new jig. I must tell you that this did my head in for a long time. As with everything, there is a simple solution, and in the end it could not have been simpler!The need is (1) quick and easy set up, (2) accurate routing leaving minimal waste, and (3) visibility and dust control (bloody machines!).The jigThis turned out to be nothing more than a block of wood. This one is 16"/440mm long x 4"/100mm high and 2"/50mm wide.I used MicroJig clamps, which slide along a sliding dovetail. This is not necessary; one can just use a couple of F-clamps. However the MicroJig clamps not only make work holding less finicky, but they extend the length of the board one can hold with this particular jig to 500mm. That is easily enough for most case widths.To use, place face down on a flat surface and clamp the drawer front close to centre ...Up end the combination, and place the end of the drawer front into your vise. This could be a face vise or, as here, a Moxon vise. Note that the image is taken from the rear of the vise ...This is what you will see when standing in front of the jig/vise ...Let's talk about the router.This is a Makita RT0700C trim router. Fantastic little router: 1 hp, variable speed, soft start. Together with a Mirka 27mm antistatic dust hose, the dust collection is amazing! The photo shown is after use, and there is no dust to be found (I very much doubt that a small plunge router could remain this clean). That also means that visibility is good, even though it does not have a built-in light. There are other excellent trim routers around for much the same price. This is the one I use.The baseThe base is the other half of the jig. This made from 6mm perspex. This is not the strongest, but does the job. I plan to build another out of polycarbonite (Lexan), which is much tougher.There is just the single handle as the left hand will grip the dust outlet.Below is the rear of the base. Note the adjustable fence/depth stop ...This is the underside ...Plans for anyone looking to make their own ...Setting upStep 1: set the depth of cut - I scribed marks on the fence for two drawer side thickness I use. Mostly I use 6mm (or 1/4"). The other is 10mm, which is used here. I shall make another, deeper fence, so that I can add a few other thicknesses, such as 19mm for case sides.Step 2: set the cut to the boundary line - this is done as close as possible. In the end I want to leave about 1mm to clear with a chisel (this is such an important line that I am not willing to take a risk here). If you move the bit side-to-side, the scratch pattern will show where it is cutting ...The resultThe router bit is 5/32" carbide. It is very controllable, and this makes it possible to freehand close to the side kerfs. The fence/depth stop prevents over-cutting the boundary line. In 15 seconds, this is the result ...Turn the board around to chisel out the waste ..Order of waste removalFirst lever away the sides. The waste here is paper thin and breaks away ...Secondly, place a wide chisel in the scribed boundary line, and chop straight down ...Finally, use a fishtail chisel into the corners to remove this ...A note: removing the waste this cleanly and easily was facilitated by using the kerfing chisel to ensure that there was a release cut at the sides of the socket.Regards from PerthDerek
  18. 1 point
    Same here. Just sold my business with 17 employees. They are you greatest asset and your biggest liability. Looking forward to the build.
  19. 1 point
    Yes it will be a journal but it will be a bit before I get to this project. My hope is to start by the end of November. As for how long will the build take me? I have no idea, I tend to work at a pretty slow pace. The slow pace is a big part of the appeal of woodworking for me, I have young kids and I own my own business that has 16 employees, add those together and I have 18 kids. Life is a mile a minute for me, so the slow rhythms of hand tool woodworking keep me sane. I plan to use white oak. White oak is my favorite. I just had an old timey wood-gasm.
  20. 1 point
    Ok, so sliding DT with hand tools is more work, but I'm confident you can do it. Fairly sure even I could do it. Slowly. With a few wedges for the base joints and tapered sliding dovetails under the top, you could potentially build that without even using GLUE, let alone screws!
  21. 1 point
    What if I don't own a router? Still simple? Going to use mostly (if not completely) hand tools on this one, because I'm THAT guy. The idea of no metal is appealing, though that may need to wait till I am half as experienced as @derekcohen The book does not show but I believe it is one solid slab, at least that would be consistent with the Nakashima style. I'm not interested in that though so I am going to use a panel of boards. I also do not plan to use breadboards, I think they would take away from the look. I'm on the fence about a slight arch on the ends. Plenty of time to figure that out.
  22. 1 point
    I agree with the crowd, your joinery plan is solid. Don't be afraid of sliding DTs, they are simple with a router and straight edge. That's an opportunity to go completely without metal fasteners, too. Does the book show that as a panel of boards, or a slab / bookmatched pair of slabs? I'm not a big fan of breadboard ends, since they almost never retain a proper fit. G&G used intentionally oversized breadboards to disguise this. I would certainly not use them if the long sides of the table are slightly arched, as the picture seems to hint.
  23. 1 point
    I wouldn't, unless you can do it elsewhere on the table, It would just seem out of place if that was the only place it's used. Also with the offset tops of each part, it might look odd. My only thoughts on the construction is on the bridle. If you just route out the sides of the base, and a slot in the upright, you probably won't get each angle to match perfectly and will have a gap on one side or the other. A notch across the top of the base will allow the whole thing to slot in and no possibility of a gap. I'd go with a bridle up top too for consistency.
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    Thanks wtnhighlander! This was in a really sorry state when we got it. Had been in the back of a garage for over 30 years. Had to strip it right down , took a few months of part time work but pleased with the results. Went to a doctor in the north of England.
  26. 1 point
    Bridle ... we're not goign to a wedding here... I made this mistake many times as well. I agree with half lap or Bridal (bridle) for all joints. I don't think that M&T would be fitting for the joints at the top of the legs. The half lap and bridle joint are among the strongest the downside is the appearance but this design celebrates that appearance. For the bottom cross feet a dowel through the joint could go a long way in improving strength.
  27. 1 point
    I think he may have cut a couple of those before this one.... so impressive.
  28. 1 point
    Half lap is probably the way I would go too. Tim Rousseau's dining table series shows some inventive ways to solidify an over-reaching form like this.
  29. 1 point
    I'll second the Tom Johnson recommendation. He's brilliant at his restoration work. William Ng's youtube channel is very good, though new content is not regularly added. The Wood Whisperer is excellent There's so much youtube content out there, most of it is on a very basic level, which is not a bad place to start. I would strongly encourage you to avoid those channels the 'specialize' in creating rustic, low quality bang-it-out-quick stuff. While it can be entertaining, those videos almost invariably show techniques that range from bad practice to downright dangerous. Best to learn from the good stuff.
  30. 1 point
    I just looked and they both do. Even Ryobi has a cordless router now.
  31. 1 point
    I love the luthier's friend. Good to know about.
  32. 1 point
    May try this on future projects. However, I started finishing yesterday. End result coming soon!
  33. 1 point
    @pkinnaeb, I think 11 routers might just be considered border line addiction and help should follow.
  34. 1 point
    IMO, the Sheetrock wall will give before the box joints do.
  35. 1 point
    I was thinking of making this exact same thing. I was planning on using a box joint, partly because I like the look, but also because I have the jig for it. If you want to hide the end grain, you could add a spline to a miter joint for strength, either a hidden one along the joint or a few exposed ones (not sure of the terminology). You could use some dowels for a point of interest, I like the exposed joinery and contrasting look myself. If you don't, the hidden spline or just screws and matching plugs sounds best.
  36. 1 point
    She's a beauty. That sapele is going to jump right out at ya when the finish hits. Are you going for the traditional green or brown leather?
  37. 1 point
    Looks amazing Chet! Gorgeous wood and amazing craftsmanship combine for a great result! Thanks for sharing.
  38. 1 point
    Fluff your feathers my friend, it's a beautiful piece of professional woodwork.
  39. 1 point
    Gorgeous, Chet. I like everything about it! Did you decide on a material for the upholstery?
  40. 1 point
    Wonderful job Chet!
  41. 1 point
    I don't have any shop rules, but if you break one, you will be NOTIFIED.
  42. 1 point
    I picked up a couple of sheets of plywood yesterday to get started on this, a 1/2 and 3/4 of Baltic birch. As usual, I wrestled the incredibly awkward sheets and got them cut down. I sized the lower shelf and rough cut some of the other pieces, then decided to sand and prefinish them. I'm using Enduro var, since that's what I've got around. I think I've basically got it figured out. There's room for 4 drawers, or 3 if I make one deeper. I'm going with the workbench style casters, and it should be possible to mount them underneath so they won't stick out. I may have also ordered a pen mandrel today, and I'm planning to pick up a couple of kits this week. I need something to look forward to making after I get this done.
  43. 1 point
    This is a continuation of last post where I mentioned I had an issue with the arms, and this should be good stuff for those looking to build this in the future. The issue arose because I'm working with 9/4 stock. The plan calls for 10/4 and after surfacing the blanks I ended up slightly over 8/4. so here's where I started and ended up.... Took my first blanks and cut a 6 degree bevel on the front underside of the arm. This allows for for correct orientation to the arm stem area. Once again you use the 6 degree jig for this at the bandsaw; After cutting the bevels I went to the chair and it wasn't what I wanted; So why am I off, well it's the thinner stock. Now I've run across this problem in the past where I didn't meet up perfectly at this joint, but not off by this much. In the past I just went with it and shaped the back leg to meet the arm, creating a slightly smaller joint, but I wasn't comfortable with doing that in this situation, I off by too much. So my choices are to increase the angle in the front which means I need a new jig or to glue up a 1/2" piece to my existing blank. Well I didn't want to glue to this blank since the bevel was already cut on the underside, that is the surface I need to glue the piece too. You'll see why very shortly. So I got some more stock, sized it and cut the extra 1/2" pieces from one of the thinner arm blanks. Glueup and tackle it tomorrow; In the mean time I took a few minutes to cut out all the spindles, now they are waiting for shaping; Next day I marked my bevel, making sure the side the piece was added to will be oriented on the under side of the arm. Same thing at the bandsaw; Now I'm in business; Using a straight edge I mark the angle of the joint and transfer that to my chop saw; Perfect fit; Marked the location for the front dowel with a dowel center, Marc does a great job explaining this; Off to the drill press to cut the hole at the correct orientation, using the 6 degree jig again; Next is to cut out the arm shape. The plan calls for an arm that to me looks like a boat paddle, I've altered my pattern for a more streamline arm; Traced on blank and off to the bandsaw; After another series of cuts here are my rough arm blanks; Now to shaping. Start with the top of the arm. Marc does a super job walking you through this and I still refer back to the video for guidance. I've mark my areas for reduction and numbered them in order of shaping; One note, I want to hide the added piece and the joint it makes, my reduction on the top side stops short of this joint; Clamped to the bench and on to the RAS and rasps, now it's getting fun; My first 2 areas reduced, now will blend them together; Done and looks good; On to the underside; Here's why I want the piece glued to the bottom of the blank, the whole joint is hidden, except where it meet the front leg; And here are the rough shaped arms. Not really rough as the RAS leaves a decent surface and I sanded both to 120 with an interface pad on the sander; Still need to shape where the arm meets the back leg but that's done after glueup. The additional time to the total is 4 hrs, but this did take longer and I counted some of those hrs in the previous post. Sitting at 21 hrs. Thanks for looking.
  44. 1 point
    So i had to get an oil change on my Subaru. Fortunately while i wait Rockler was only a very short 1.5 mile walk away. So instead of sitting and wasting time i went there and talked to a good knowledgeable employee. I've been needing a way to replaece those rotten aluminum knobs so was just poking around to see if there was some way i could manage that. Yeah it went south fast. The Comet II was on sale with a G3 chuck and tools for less than the regular price of just the lathe. Also a set of carbide tools was on sale for buy 2 get 1 free. So here we are my bench is near complete, and I bought a new toy that is just going to distract me. I guess at least I'll have knobs now. I'd proably have more free time and money if i just paid someone to turn them for me.....
  45. 1 point
    Another quick update. I plan on fishing this week and weekend so I likely won't get back to this for a few days and I wanted to tidy this post up by reviewing what I did the past 2 days. Now that the front legs are set I've moved to the back legs. After cutting them out on the bandsaw and flush trimming them using the back leg pattern it's on to a few other procedures before we cut the joints. First thing is to remove stock off the inside portion of the legs. We remove stock below the headrest area and leave the headrest and the seat joint area at full thickness. We aim for 1 1/4" thickness in these reduction areas and 1 1/2" at the arm joint area. Here's what that reduction looks like; An adder block needs to be added to the inside surface of the leg at the seat joint area. This adder block should measure 3 x 5 x 3/4".Here the adder block is added and I am squaring and truing up this surface to the outside of the leg; Once that is completed we need to cut a 6 degree angle into this adder block to get the classic Maloof Rocker look. Here I've marked out the orientation for this cut, this is a huge exaggeration in the angle, the real angle cut here will not be as harsh; I'll be using a jig that is set at 6 degrees to make this cut, but I won't be doing that cut in this post, that will be done next post. A note about the adder block, try to get the block out of the same board the leg is cut from, will help with grain and color matching. While the glueup of the adder block was drying I took the opportunity to knock out some other prep cuts. Doing these prep cuts during glueups really helps speed things along. When you follow Marc on his video he tackles each step and part individually. The key is knowing what you are safe to jump ahead with. Cutting the laminate strips for the rockers is definitely one area you can jump ahead with. Here are 20 strips, bundled in matching sets as they came off the bandsaw; I still have a little prep to do with these strips but once that's done I'll glueup the rockers. It's also smart to glueup the rockers early, esp since I only have one form. Doing these early are big time savers. Another area it is safe to jump ahead with is the spindles. Shaping these spindles is by far the most time consuming and arduous task of this project. Here they are before bandsawing; After bandsawing I put them side by side and clamp together. Notice the irregularities; The next step is not necessary but I think it makes for a little more consistent outcome. While clamped together I use the RAS and the sanders to even up the contours; Flip over and don't remove clamps. Blend this other side like the first; We then use the other spindle pattern to develop the correct side contours; Using this pattern is not the easiest and since I like my spindles slightly more narrow I get the first spindle cut and the shape refined at the spindle sander and I use this first spindle to draw my cut lines on the other spindles. Another big time saver; It's alittle hard to see the lines but here are the other spindles marked up and ready for the bandsaw; One last mark for these spindles is to mark the midline front and back. This serves as a guide when shaping begins. I'll cut and shape these spindles gradually throughout the project now that I have them prepped. I will wait until the spindle holes in the seat are drilled before I start shaping though. The upper part of the spindles will be refined and shaped after the headrest is fitted. You need to cut some excess off the top of these spindle at this step so reduction and shaping of this area will be held off until then. My next goals will be to get the back legs jointed and fitted to the seat. Once I have that done I can begin with the arms. Time spent on these procedures; 2.5 hrs, total is now 11 hrs.
  46. 1 point
    True, I realize that, but the way he shows it in the video looked sketchy. Now let me preface this with the fact that I'm not a lathe expert, I don't have all the attachments, and I have an old belt driven lathe. It works great for basic turnings but is limited beyond that. Finally, I've never drilled a hole on the lathe so experience here was also an issue. So why I thought it was sketchy; In his video he had the chuck and bit in place and with the piece only supported by his hands he started to drill the hole with the lathe at low speed. Once he had the hole started he increased the speed of the lathe and turned the wheel on the tailstock to engage the leg and advance the leg to the proper hole depth. I didn't like that the piece was only supported by my hands and changing speeds on my lathe is not as simple as hitting a button. Also I don't have a drill bit chuck that fits my lathe, I could get one but with it being an older lathe I've bought attachments for it and some fit well and some don't. In the end I've developed this technique and it has worked well for me. Also I think it's a viable way to handle this dowel hole if you don't have a lathe and you shape this leg by hand.
  47. 1 point
    ... as I prepare for the next furniture build. I collected some rather nice fiddleback Jarrah from The Timber Bloke for the hall table (for my niece) that is now starting. (It has some nice challenges, but that is all for later) ... The workshop becomes a dogs breakfast when I get underway, although I tidy up as much as I can. So I take time between builds to clean up, repair anything that needs to be done, and build a few items that have been percolating in my imagination. There was a recent posting of a new Moxon dovetail vise ... More recently, I finally added a bench stop to the end of the bench ... This has the cork rubber ("crubber", as BenchCrafted refer to it) lining used on the Moxon and legvise. It had excellent non-slip properties (seek it out from outlets that sell gaskets)... I love it! This stop works so well for face planing. As many know, I have been field testing pre-production tools for Lee Valley/Veritas for many years. Some of the prototype tools are replaced later with production tools, and I am sometimes left with useable but unsaleable tools. A number of years ago it was bench chisels. It occurred to me that I could turn a 1/4" O1 chisel (which had a few bites in the sides) into a fishtail chisel for half blind dovetails. All that was needed was a hand grinder and some patience. The wood was stained ebony ... This are so useful when clearing the waste (Rob Lee assures me that fishtail chisels are to be produced by Veritas at some time - their design, not mine). The offset angle is 6:1, which will work with the socket angles I prefer. A few years ago I made a birds cage awl from carbide for starting screw or drill holes. The square grind here is 25 degrees for the primary bevel and it has a 35 degree micro secondary bevel for durability. The handle is shaped for down force ... It occurred to me that I could convert very easily a screwdriver into a scratch awl. I wanted this one for marking holes more precisely. We've probably all made screwdrivers like these. This one was made some years ago ... Take a damaged screwdriver insert, insert it into a cordless drill and spin it against a disk sander until it forms a point (at about 20 degrees) ... Time now to focus on the hall table ... Regards from Perth Derek
  48. 1 point
    Here's my final review on the PM2000B - This video isn't public yet but, thought I'd give you guys the first look. https://youtu.be/qARex9vM_Lo
  49. 1 point
    We are moving now. Here's my progress since last post.... This post I tackle the seat joints, pre-assembly shaping, and the seat glue up. Cut the back notches for the rear leg joints. A few thoughts here, first the size of the notch is only somewhat important. I try to be dead on but as you'll see with assembly there is extra seat here extending out past the rear leg. So if you cut the notch at 2 15/16ths" instead of 3", you'll be fine. The real big deal is the fact that this notch needs to be dead on square, I mean dead on. The front notches are only 1/4" deep, I set up the blade and the fences so the cut is done without needing any adjustments. Also I just leave on my standard blade and nibble away, quicker than setting up the dado stack; Against the Incra stop; Against the tablesaw fence; Cut is a little rough at first; Router plane makes quick work of this and gives me a perfectly flat surface. I would have used the router plane with the dado stack anyway, another reason I just use a standard blade for this notch. Once you have your notches it's time to route the notch to develop the classic Maloof joint outline. I find using the handheld router here a mistake waiting to happen. To me the router table with the starter pin in place gives me much more control; Few minutes later, looking good. With the maple I did get some burning, esp with the end grain. I don't think there is any avoiding this and the joint has a ton of gluing surface anyway; Now before I glue up the seat I'm going to take a minute to do some pre-assembly shaping. This helps a ton developing the contour of the future seat. The outside boards are placed next to the already cut boards they will be glued to. I strike a line for depth and begin shaping. Here you can see my guide lines; One side done; other side done. Take notice how little dust is present on the table. This operation was completed by the Festool Ras and took about 7 minutes per board!!! Is it necessary to do this pre-assembly shaping. No, but it helps. I can hold my RAS at an angle that is not possible when the seat is assembled. If you look at this photo you can see the RAS disc would be digging into the adjacent board. To do this operation once the seat is assembled you need to hold your grinder in a much more awkward and less effective angle; Here's a view of board number 4, I'm pretty aggressive with my reduction. I was aware of my domino placement and we should be fine. Once the seat is completely shaped then I would expect this area to be slightly over 3/4" at it's thinnest; Finally, all glued up, I almost forgot you need to put the seat in this position so glue doesn't drip down into your joints. Positioned wrong at first but caught myself; So you can see from above I'm well on my way to shaping this seat, it's nothing more than blending together the boards now. Also with shaping I think the biggest thing I see people do that I don't think looks good is they scoop out on the perimeter at a harsh slope to their depth then they have a large flat area 1" below the top of the seat. I want my slope to be more gradual and much less "flat" area. This shape tend to cradle the legs and the backside and is much more comfortable. I'll elaborate on this in the next post as shaping the seat is on the agenda then. These operations took just 1 hr, so I'm sitting at 4.5hrs so far. Thanks for looking.
  50. 1 point
    Be careful what you 'almost' wish for. I certainly did not have long to wait.