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  1. 8 points
    SCM S500P (MM20) Bandsaw Review On a warm midsummer day, standing in my shop and sipping a glass of chardonnay, my wife asked me what piece of equipment I wanted next. I did not hesitate nor falter; I did not waiver. “A heavy bandsaw for resawing.” Her response drifted down on the wings of angels, softly, melodically, beautifully. “I don’t know what that is, but you have a birthday coming up, why don’t you get it?” My dream machine happened to be on AWFS show special pricing, so I did. I felt that I had to do due diligence even though I knew my mind was set on the MM16 Minimax bandsaw from SCM. The through-the-years closest-thing-to-a-consensus was that it was THE bandsaw to have for resawing. SCM bandsaws, with the exception of the S45N, are made by Centauro in Italy. I’ve sold lot’s of them and my customers were, to a person, thrilled with them. I also looked hard at the Laguna LT18, Laguna 18BX (great bang for the buck!) and the Felder FB510 and FB610. All great saws, but I’m at the point where everything I buy, I buy for the last time and don’t look back. Disclaimer* - I sold SCMI (SCM), Laguna and Felder equipment early on in my career. Having settled on the MM16 I dug a little deeper online and decided that the 20” model was worth the difference due to the larger wheel diameter = longer blade life on wide resaw blades. Plus, 4” more resaw capacity should I ever need it. I called Sam Blasco of SCM/Minimax to get a quote. Sam is a terrific guy and a very straight shooter. I also checked online and ultimately ordered from Elite Metal Tools. Same price, but freight paid. SCM quotes FOB destination with “white glove” service, meaning that if there’s any damage in transit, SCM assumes full responsibility - at a $750 up-charge. For the difference I was willing to take the risk and the machine arrived in perfect condition, having been drop-shipped directly from SCM in GA in their “ark of the covenant” crating. Arrival Wow, this thing is heavy. By my best calculated guess, the crate had some 1200 - 1500 nails in it. Not exaggerating. The machine was blocked up solidly and wrapped to protect anything from shifting. 10 out of 10 on packaging. It took 3 of us two hours to unload it from the trailer, move it through the garage and into the shop. Unpacking It took an hour to remove the crate and stand it up. No problems. FWIW, it took another 2 hours to break the crate down for reuse and disposal. Assembly Nothing much to assemble. We hoisted it up off the pallet using the beams in my shop and a come-along. I installed the casters/mobility kit and leveling bolts, scooted it off the pallet, cleaned off the packing oil from the table and waited for my blades to arrive. I spent my time waiting for the blades to arrive tweaking little things that many would say shouldn’t have to be done, but that from experience I know still do need to be done. More on that below. Once UPS brought the blades I installed the 1” Lenox carbide tipped resaw blade and used it to adjust the 90 degree stop, set the blade guides, etc. I was surprised, albeit pleasantly surprised to see that the saw has Euro blade guides. Almost all of the info I had read in forums said SCM had switched to Carter guides. In fact, I almost ordered the bandsaw about a year ago and was told that they only shipped with Carter guides, so I held off to look into other saws. Not that Carter guides are poor guides, they’re not, but I prefer Euro style guides. I contacted Sam again. He said they switched back several years ago from Carter to Euro. Ready to Run I’ll break this review down into two main parts. Part 1 is the greatness of the machine and what makes me very glad that I bought it. Part 2 are those little annoyances that I’ve found in most (but not all) equipment I’ve owned that I will soon forget all about. Part 1 The saw is a beast. It’s almost scary in its capacity. It has just under 20” of resaw capacity and carries up to a 1 ¼” blade with a 4.8 Hp motor. With it running and the guides all the way up I just find myself thinking, “Don’t trip. Don’t trip.” The guide post elevation system is the best I’ve come across short of a motorized system. If I set the guides properly all the way at the top I can lower them down the full 20” and they don’t drift front to back or side to side at all once the post is locked. SCM uses a chain and sprocket mechanism that’s independent of the saw body. +1 The wheels are very well balanced and heavy, ½” thick cast iron. They power the blade through anything. Power - Holy crap. The brake is very responsive, all things considered. There’s an interconnect to the starter switch, so when pressed it cuts power to the saw. I don’t know what these wheels weigh, but they’re massive. Stops in 1-2 seconds. The blade guide telescoping cover is great. As mentioned above, the Euro guides are simple to set without tools. I’ve used lots of different guides over the years, but the side bearing Euro guides I’ve always found to be my preference. If it had come with Laguna style ceramic I’d probably be just as happy, though I’ve found those to be a little trickier to set. It feeds at 5000 feet per minute. That’s fast. It would be no problem to put a power feed on this machine. The cut quality with a high quality carbide tipped blade is superb. I would give it one pass through a sander before glueing a veneer down. There is no discernible drift with the 1” blade. SCM touts the industry-only triple-box-beam spine on this saw as being capable of very high blade tension, meaning it cuts straight. For what this saw is designed to do, it does a great job. One thing to keep in mind is that the minimum blade width (as shipped) is ¼”. Anything smaller requires retrofitting guide blocks in place of the Euro guides. Part 2 It seems there are almost always some little annoyances that you notice up front that, over time fade from memory. Here are mine. Mobility kit sucks on anything other than a flat, flat floor. The casters are too small in diameter for this size and weight of a machine. The J-bar is too light for this size machine. It won't fit through a door and weighs over 200 lbs. more than my Sawstop PCS. The casters on it are too close together and the whole thing feels like it will tip over if you turn it more than a few degrees. I bought a Bora PM-3500 mobile base since… The doors have to be open 180 degrees to get anything larger than a ¾” blade on. If you have the saw near a wall that’s a problem. They could easily move the hinges to the left an inch and make the doors an inch wider so that opening at 90 degrees would allow access. Solved by the Bora mobile base. Move the saw out from the wall to change blades. Deafening screech on startup, meaning the motor drive belt/pulley was slipping. I called SCM and was told to give it time to break in. New belt, etc. I did and it didn’t stop. I adjusted the belt tension and problem solved. Table edges were sharp. Took a file to them. Solved. Fence was out of perpendicularity to the table +/- 1/64” over 4”. Filed down the landing on the bottom of the fence. Solved. I’ve read other reviews that find fault with the dust collection. I’m pleasantly surprised that it is as efficient as it is. One complaint I’ve seen more than once is that dust floats down from above like snow. There are two ~2” diameter holes on top of the saw connected by a weldment for lifting the saw. Cover them up. Solved. If you’re in the market for a premium bandsaw that will resaw whatever you throw at it, this will. I’m very happy with this saw. * For those familiar with my background, you can skip this. For those who aren’t, I feel pretty qualified to submit this review, having spent my career in the woodworking machinery business, from supplying upscale hobby shops to multi-million dollar production equipment. I’ve also been an off and on (as life permitted) avid woodworking hobbyist for over 50 years.
  2. 8 points
    Many of my projects involve bow fronts, which result in compound angle dovetails ... I do enjoy building furniture with dovetailing challenges. Between furniture pieces, I find time to build a new tool. This time it is the Moxon dovetail vise I have been promising myself for a while. My first and only one was built in early 2011, after Chris Schwarz helped put it on the map. I immediately modified this design, and have been making modifications since. (Link: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/MoxonDovetailVise.html). This new Moxon incorporates the best ideas. Ironically, this design is not geared for compound angles. I decided to heed my own advice and keep it as simple as possible, and cater for the 90% of the dovetailing that is likely to be done. The width of the vise is narrower than my previous one, but capable of 450mm (17 3/4")between the screws. Most cases I built are between 350 - 450mm deep. My previous Moxon could do 560mm (22") between the screws. This is unnecessary, and just makes for a very large fixture. Where the old Moxon used wooden screws, which I turned, this uses steel Acme screws and iron wheels ala BenchCrafted ... except that these came via Tom Bussey (thanks Tom), which amounted to a large savings. The wheels are 5" in diameter on a 3/4" screw. The front chop is 5 1/2" high, and the Moxon is built in Jarrah ... what else do you expect! I went a little OTT in this build, but it was fun, and I admit I did become a little carried away Brass inlay ... The chop runs on bronze bearings ... Lining the inside of the vise is rubberised cork. This makes a great non-slip (not my idea - this comes from BenchCrafted, who call it "crubber". Simply search eBay for "cork rubber"). This vise is a good height for sawing ... There are a few innovations. The rear of the vise ... This is a spacer, and it can be locked into the up position ... The spacer has two functions. The first is setting the pin board (10mm) above the chop to prevent scoring the chop when transferring tails to pins with a knife (this is more of a danger with through dovetails). Also, by lifting the work, there will be light behind the pin board, and this makes it easier to align the edges. The crubber makes a great non-slip. The spacer may be dropped out of the way, once the height is set ... The second use of the spacer is that it has a sliding dovetail at the top, and this allows for the use of MicroJig clamps. This would be especially useful for holding wide boards, or tail board which have developed a slight bow ... I have used this on other fixtures, such as a morticing jig. For aligning the tail- and pin boards, I prefer a simple wide square I made from wood ... The spacer needs to be dropped out of the way for this ... Once transfer is made, reverse the board and saw the pins. This is where you will recognise that the cove is not simply decoration, but allows the saw to angle and get closer to the work piece. The lower the work piece in the vise, the less vibration when sawing ... And thats it ... the last moxon dovetail vise ... Regards from Perth Derek
  3. 8 points
    OMG!! Is that what this little piece of plywood is for?! The thing was just rattling around in the box my Jet came in. There was nothing in the instructions other than now I see a vague mention of a "dust block". No picture. No description. Nothing in the parts list. I figured it was too odd not to be something, but I thought maybe for checking belt tension. Imagine how my dust collection will improve now with this installed, and if I remember to turn the DC on.
  4. 6 points
    Sooo i may have done something.... I was about to go and just pickup a rigid from home depot, when i called the outlet one more time. They have a PM1000 ready to go if i want it. My wife, two kids jump in the car, rent a trailer and drove 3 hours to go get it. So happy to finally have a table saw. Cost of saw, 1350$ not to shabby. Thank you everyone for the comments and direction. The saw stop was just to far out of the budget. Maybe one day.
  5. 6 points
    I managed to wrestle the thing into a Bora PM-3500 mobile base. The mobility kit that came with the saw doesn't allow enough clearance for my uneven floors. Thankfully there's an overhead beam directly above the saw that I could use to hoist it up high enough to slide the Bora unit under it. Still, kinda nerve wracking. The Bora unit works great!
  6. 5 points
    This isn't a review of a specific product but more of a review of a product idea. I bought some of these magnetic shelve things off amazon to use as storage on machines. Most of our machines are steel and magnets stick well to them. I always loose pencils tape measure ect, and always have the Allen wrenches and other accessories that you need to adjust things. Before i used the parts treys which work but they made the Allen wrenches rulers and other steel parts magnetic which became slightly annoying. The shelf is a much better idea as it allows me to also hold non-magnetic objects close at hand. I have one on the front of my table saw that holds the adjustment tool for the incra miter gauge my table saw nut wrench and some allen wrenches for various jigs ect. I also have one on my bandsaw that is more centrally located that has a ruler in it (it's below the edge) a bunch more allen wrenches. and has more tape measures that are in plain sight. They have a weight limit and won't be able to hold a TON of weight but some hand tools rulers and a couple tape measures aren't half of what they can hold.
  7. 5 points
    I was telling Alison at lunch today about the Felder PCS technology. She was enthralled. This evening I was showing her something I was working on in my shop and she commented that, yea, yea she knows I want a Felder saw now. I mentioned that the one saw that technology was available on is about $35,000. She asked me how many fingers I really need. Love.
  8. 5 points
  9. 5 points
    That is a bold man. It's glue that I did not notice before I finished it. You can only see it if your eyes are open though. My blind friend is none the wiser about it.
  10. 5 points
    I finally got a chance to take some glamour shots. What do you think.
  11. 5 points
    Chris, your responses here on the Forum this past week or so leave a lot to be desired. They really offer nothing to the conversation and are pretty rude to the person that started the thead. I had sent you a PM when I deleted you post in the CNC section but you never read it. So this time I am going to be more public and tell you that this forum has a no jerk policy and if you can follow that you time here will probably be short lived. You comment above does not help her at all so you do you say something like this? Especially to a new member, you don't make her feel welcome with a comment like this one.
  12. 5 points
    Jim, good work on the HF chisels. I was inspired to do this about 10 years ago when I recognised that the Blue Spruce chisels were made this way. I have had a BS set for about 15 years, for paring dovetails, and they were among a very few who produced chisels with minimal lands. The chisels I chose to grind were vintage Stanley #750s (purchased individually over some years, mostly without handles). Unlike the LN chisels they were modelled after, the Stanleys had rather chunky sides, and were useless for dovetailing. I also was not a fan of the stubby Stanley 750 handles, and wanted something longer. This is what the Stanley now look like. Incidentally, the 1/8" chisel started out as a 1/4", as did the 3/16" chisel - these are two sizes I use a lot with dovetails. I did write an article on a jig I made to do this: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Soyouwanttomakeadovetailchisel.html Later, I simply managed it freehand. The smaller chisel sizes are a little tricky Regards from Perth Derek
  13. 4 points
    I'm going to blame @Mark J for my brief descent into the world of scissors. I wanted to have a pair that would fit with the cabinet, without putting a big pair of tailor's shears in here. These seemed like they fit. I made a holder that's got a peg to hold their weight, a small recess for the pivot point, and a magnet at the right spacing for them to lay flat and not move. It works really well. I was intending to pull the holders out to finish them this weekend, but according to Canada Post my other tools all arrive tomorrow. I might as well wait and make the last couple before pulling everything out.
  14. 4 points
    Or he's a zealous fanatic obsessed with protecting the world's voiceless fingers, whether they want to be or not. I'm glad to see Felder and Bosch pursue the R&D on these safety mechanisms. It validates the safety concept and will eventually drive some choice into the market place.
  15. 4 points
    My son has an electric fence around his horse pasture that I inadvertently tested one day If you could somehow rig up one of those things around a saw blade, people would learn in a hurry to keep their fingers away.
  16. 4 points
    I'm returning to this thread because there's been some further evolution. First the magnets in an aluminum pan idea worked well as long as I was using the Tormek jigs which left plenty of space under the open CBN wheels. They collected almost all, but not 100%, of the metal dust. Clean up is a little bit of a nuisance and really needs to done after each session. Can't remember if I explained this before, but the ziploc bag is essential. To clean the magnets open the bag over the trash. Dip a screwdriver in to retrieve the magnet. With your fingers pinched above the magnet squeege off the metal bits as you move the magnet up past your fingers. Then drop the magnet back in the bag. Like I said, works well. But whenever I sought help with sharpening lathe tools I realized the rest of world all have the Wolverine system so I decided I needed one, too. And turners are always one tool away from greatness. The Wolverine takes up most of the space under the wheels. I tried to work around this for a while, but the dust collection was definitely not as good. Then enter last month's American Woodturner Magazine. There's an article in the tips section where one of the members (Mitchell Friedman, to give him credit) had put together an attachment to collect dust at his grinder with PVC pipe. The Editor's note indicated the the procedure should be safe if the vacuum was dedicated to the task and did not contain wood dust, etc. The Editors also recommend grounding the PVC pipe. I have a clean dedicated vac, but am not planning to ground the PVC as I don't see what a static spark could ignite (and I'm not sure how to do it). It's 1 1/2" pipe. Two 60's, two 90's two 1' sections, a T and a plug as well as an adaptor to the vac pipe. Friction fit and held in place with gravity. I have used it to shape two new gouges, which is a lot of grinding, and refresh one gouge, as well. I looked into the vac and found quite a bit of metal in there, so I think it works at least as well as the magnets. Very good, but like 95%. Also after the test I decided to install a clean, new filter bag. I really don't believe it's a fire hazzard, but I can see that cleaning out the vacuum could get ugly. And by the way I figure to empty the bag when it's at 5%. No way am I going to be able handle 14 gallons of steel dust.
  17. 4 points
    I finally got around to rerouting my dust pipe for the new bandsaw. Much better collection even though after it was said and done I only trimmed 3 feet from the flex hose. It's a more direct shot between the collector and the saw though. I was pleasantly surprised not to find any dust buildup in the lines when I separated them. Collector is doing its job.
  18. 3 points
    I found this at my Lowes today on clearance for 21.98. That's less than 4.00 each! there was a box full of these 6 packs in the back of the store where trim is kept. After I grabbed this I checked the clamp section and it was all Irwin and those 6 inch clamp's were 10.00 each so it may be worth checking if you could use a few more clamp's
  19. 3 points
    Doug, I'm a woodworker and I'm so glad I bought a jointer/planer combo. Now you have. I've owned a few of them over the years and currently have a Hammer A3-41 16" J/P combination. I love it. It does everything I ask of it and then some, takes up less space than the two machines would separately and was much less than the two separate machine would have been in comparable configurations. In the past I've owned Inca, Luna and Felder (5 function combo). All were a pleasure to use. Is there changeover time involved? Yes, but that can be mitigated easily, see below. For me, the tradeoffs are worth the advantages I listed above.
  20. 3 points
    You know I think I may have sounded like I was criticising the FreeCAD (or Fusion) developers, which was not my intention. Both programs seem very powerful and appear to be just what I could use, and I appreciate the suggestions and guidance folks have given me here. And if a developer makes their software free to me I can't really expect them to come over to my house and hold my hand to learn it. But it's a bit like I'm looking through thick windows into a store of wonders, but no matter how many times I walk around the building and pound on the bricks I can't find a door leading in, secret or otherwise. And yes Lord of the Rings fans, I did try saying "friend", and for that matter "open sesame". I'm speaking out of frustration, again. Sorry. I spent literally the last two days trying to get into that building. Again, if you're getting it for free you can't really bark about what free includes. But I would actually pay to acquire the software I need. I have the free 2016 version of SketchUp, but if I ever started using it professionally I would pay them for the Pro version. That's their deal. Same with Fusion 360 or Solidworks. But it's got to be good value for money, so a reasonable price (Solidworks) for what the product is going to change in my life, and there has to be training and support so that I can actually make use of what I buy. I haven't found anything in the way of formal instruction for Fusion either, so I'm not dropping $400 a year just to stare at it. Unfortunately, I have not found YouTube or the Internet in general to be as useful for me as it has been for others. Now I admit that other than the videos people post here, I spent more time on YouTube this week than all of the rest of my life, so maybe i don't know what I'm doing. I found a fellow with 29 tutorials, but it's a disorganized list. I have no idea from the titles which one is first or what's the sequence and some of the dates are old, pre the current FreeCAD version. I wish I had learned these types of programs in college, or on the job, I think that would help enormously. If anyone comes across some good training material or an online college program, etc., then please share that information with me! Meanwhile what I really want to do is turn another piece I have been thinking of. I need to try out some different permutations of the idea on paper before walking up to the lathe. It would be nice to have the capabilities of parametric modeling and a program that draws a true circle. At this point I have to see if there isn't some way for me to draw my ideas on graph paper, although my drafting skills are more mythical than legendary.
  21. 3 points
    I think these are the last couple additions: a holder for my digital calipers, and a magnetic block to find my 6 inch rulers. The other tools are in the mail, but I think I'll get these holders all finished. I need to get onto a couple of other projects soon.
  22. 2 points
    Thanks John. I came in second. Regards from Perth Derek
  23. 2 points
    No apologies necessary. I cringe when I see all the curlicues, swan-necks and spindles on Queen Anna stuff . .. ugh! Like many things in life, there is enough variety for all of us. I was lucky to have been raised by parents who exposed me to a wide variety of styles in art, furniture, architecture, etc. I have always been thankful. I can enjoy something without really caring for it personally.
  24. 2 points
    I'd have the drawer fronts cut to size with the dovetails done. It might be more tricky to get the veneer trimmed after the fact but you have a huge advantage of not having to worry about messing up the drawer front, which probably won't happen. For trimming the veneer i wouldn't use a flush trim bit. That's like taking a 48" bar chain saw out to cut a twig. If you've used veneer you should be aware that it's thin and cuts very well with a utility knife. If you were unaware veneer cuts really well with a utility knife . I'd do a practice board with maybe a similar veneer or a scrap piece. Attach it to the small board and then very lightly use the board as a strait edge and cut through the veneer. The key here is to NOT try and make the cut in one pass. For long grain work a fellow forum member taught me to use very very light pressure down and heavy pressure against the strait edge to score the veneer. The strait edge in your case is the drawer front. Then progressively apply a bit more pressure to cut the rest of the way through. This should take roughly 4-5 passes. It sounds tedious but it goes quite fast. This helps prevent the splintering. For end grain you want to try and prevent blowing out when you complete the cut. I suggests making the end grain cuts first. They are similar to the long grain cuts with the exception that you want to make partial length cuts starting towards the end of the cut working your way forward. So if you are pulling the knife towards you start on the corner closest to you and work your way away from you. Again with the light pressure down but good pressure against the strait edge or your drawer face. You again want to take about 5-6 passes. What this does is it severs the grain first in the place it's most likely to blow out allowing you to more forward more towards the area that there will be more grain support. If the veneer starts to split I'd stop and assess and proceed with even less downward pressure. If the veneer ends up a bit proud of the surface at this point I'd call that a win and use some very light sanding to flush it up completely. I don't think there is anything helpful, but this is a project i did with veneer.
  25. 2 points
    Not in Canada. Reattaching a finger would be covered. But the saw would be closer to $50K in Canadian Kopeks.
  26. 2 points
    If I had $35,000, I would sit up all night and look at it!
  27. 2 points
    Sometimes (your wife's) insomnia pays off. Came out to the shop at 4:15 and had it done by 5:00. And I made coffee.
  28. 2 points
    Well, I made it to page 21 of the court docs before falling asleep.
  29. 2 points
    This is true... He never wanted to make saws, but Ryobi wanted him to be responsible for his technology in their saws. He said "I might as well make the saws myself then" ... And that's what he did. The rest, is history
  30. 2 points
    First world problems, huh? It does underscore the only real annoyance I've found with the saw. Well, that and the mobility kit that came with it. In order to get anything over a 1/2" blade installed, the doors have to be open 180 degrees. If they made the doors an inch wider and moved the hinges an inch to the left the wider blades would go on at 90 degrees and the saw could be closer to the wall. Fortunately the 1" blade will live on this machine and should rarely need to be changed. The Bora PM-3500 mobile base is rated at 1500 lbs. They make others, but this one got really good marks from most everyone. Much easier to assemble and much heavier than the other bases I've used. I have one on my drill press that uses aluminum cam levers to raise and lower the casters. Don't care for it. it's hard to activate the levers and I find myself getting down on my hands and knees to push down on the levers. The Bora is step on, step off.
  31. 2 points
    All good conversation! Let me say that I agree, these programs all have a steep learning curve, and the difference in Fusion360 "free" and FreeCAD "free" is probably more meaningful to software developers than us Joe's that just want to draw something. @Mark J, the biggest hurdle for me was letting go of the click and drag mentality I learned in Sketchup. My experience with Autodesk products was entirely 2D, as electrical schematics have little use for the third dimension! I have a strong leaning toward Open-Source applications like FreeCAD, because I don't use a Windows or Mac at home. Linux all the way! So take my recommendations with a grain of salt. YMMV really applies.
  32. 2 points
    This is true. The meat cutting band saw method is pretty interesting as well. It's been posted around. If it were me I'd create a system that has a brake on the blade and then make the user dip their fingers in nano bots. Track the nano bots and when ever they get with in a 1/4" of the blade activate the brake. Only because nano bots and woodworking would be an awesome pair.
  33. 2 points
    Yes Coop, it's a deep chair. I think it wouldn't be too hard to move the backrest forward, it would just be changing the location of 2 cuts. The other thing is they are very wide, much wider than the Low Back. That may not be a big problem, but could be if you have a desk with limited leg/knee/foot space. Changing the width is more difficult as you would need to change the pattern. If you want any measurements of the final chair just ask, I'll get them for you. Submitted and they are now posted on the guild site.
  34. 2 points
    My hand tool cabinet needs more hand plane space. When I built it I only had a couple cheap planes; now I have several yet no specific storage for them. Chisels and hammering devices I’m set, but I also want a sharpening station. Except now I have a lathe and the grinder needs to be near it. *sigh* It’ll never be “done.”
  35. 2 points
    Vinny, what's up with wdwerker anyways? He hasn't been around here in forever.
  36. 2 points
    It's my wife's dog. She is a very sweet and likable pooch, but she has taken it upon herself to pee on the carpets from time to time. When this happens I have to imediately break down my shop vac and convert it to wet mode and clean up the mess. Then the vac has to be washed out and left to dry. Then hook everything back up. I got tired of doing this. So I decided if I was buying one vac for the shop I would be doggone if I wasn't going to get one for the house. So now I have a smaller format Vacmaster without wheels in the closet. And now that my workshop vac does not need to be disassembled, etc., there's no reason the whole operation can't be my wife's.
  37. 2 points
    I feel like a shovel is a good tool for lathe work in that case . Maybe the vacs have gotten better in the last 5 years, all i remember is being about to go for about 30 min and then becoming the center of a dust cloud trying to clean the filter. Maybe i was doing it wrong. Yes they are expensive, had that opinion, bought one used for a good deal. Then realized their benefit and bought another one. Chips go to my collector, my floor sweep gets used a ton and is really nice. For the festool bags i dump them out 4-5 times before tossing them so getting multiple uses is nice. It's easier to dump one of those bags through a 37mm hole than it was cleaning one of the old vac filters. I had a dust deputy and the space those things take up is miserable. It's far and away worth the extra $200 to not have to drag one of those units around. Make fun of me if you like, i used to think all festool was over priced BS, now i only think a good portion of the tools are overpriced BS.
  38. 2 points
    I'm gonna be that guy that says he has both. Actually two wet/dry vacs and a CT (but one of the vacs is dedicated). I love the CT for everything except the lathe. The lathe makes chips by the shovel full and the CT bags are relatively expensive. I looked at the Festool chip separator but you can buy a lot of vac's for that. So I now have the CT, a roustabout vac for the shop, a dedicated vac for the grinder (more on that coming elsewhere), and a dedicated wet vac for doggy doo doo duty (so I don't have to keep disassembling one of mine). Of course with all these vacuums you'd think the place would be cleaner.
  39. 2 points
    I absolutely love making small boxes and it had been a while since I last made one. As you guys know, boxes are awesome because you get to practice joinery and do experiments on something small scale so if you screw up a part you will only be wasting a small piece instead of something large like the entire leg of a trestle table. I'm getting close to being done on what I have titled The Up-Side Down Right-Side Up Placebo Box. (The "Up-Side Down Right-Side Up" part I will explain later.) The box will be used to house some essential oils which I like to tease my wife and call them placebo oils. It is beyond the scope of this journal to get into whether essential oils actually work because of the placebo effect, or if they work because of like....science or whatever. Many of them do seem to work for me, though there is a really good chance they are only working because of the placebo effect, but as long as they work I don't care why they are working. I'm not done with this box yet but here are a couple of pictures to start off with of the dry assembly with not handle on the lid. Gives you a sense of the over-all look. I was shooting for a Japanese-ish style look. I think I pulled that off. This design started off with bad drawings. I used the technique that Mike Pekovich wrote about in his book that many of you have recommended. (I recommend it also.) The one where you make lots of small drawings and do them fast with very little detail. That way you can crank out lots of different designs in a small amount of time. Doing this I quickly identified what I did and did not like. Once I had a design concept figured out I measured some placebo bottles to figure out the overall inside dimensions. This concludes the planning part of this project, I'm more of a fly by the seat of your pants kind of guy. And with that, it was time to make saw dust. Here is the board I am making this box out of. This is teak that is approximately 3/4" thick. I did not buy this board because as most of you folks know teak prices are kind of on the high side. I got this board from a local guitar maker. He had come to me because he needed a wrap done on a guitar for some event (for my day job I own a sign company so wrapping vehicles and other things is a big part of what we do) and he needed it in a hurry. Once we were done with the wrap he asked what he owed me, well if you know any guitar makers then you know all of them have a collection wood that they "will make something out of some day", so I told him that he had to pay me in wood. He gave me this piece of teak (which has some kind of oil finish on it in the picture) a smaller highly figured piece of teak and some canary wood. It pays to be friends with guitar makers. I started by just milling up the box sides. I did all this by hand except I used my planer for thicknessing. To get the ends true for the dovetails I needed to use a shooting board. Which was a problem because I don't have a shooting board. I have been meaning to make one for like a year or so, I just had not gotten around to doing it. No time like the present I guess. It went pretty well too. I was very surprised that I was able to get it square of the very first try. Have a look! There is zero light leaking through. Feels good man. Dovetail time. I'm a dirty cheater and am using the Katz-Moses jig. This is only the second time attempting dovetails and I just don't have the hours to dedicate to properly learning hand cut dovetails. So stop judging me jerks! The above is my dovetail gear. What you don't see is any chisels. That is because I don't have dovetail chisels, I know you don't NEED dovetail chisels, but I wanted some, so I made some. I posted this in another thread but for those of you who did not see that post I'm going to post it here as well. I had just read The Joiner and the Cabinet Maker (which I can't recommend enough by the way) and in that book Christopher Schwarz explains how to make dovetail chisels. According to Schwarz you can just get some cheap chisels and file the side bevels to a point. Schwarz also says that you can use a grinder or a belt sander instead of a file as long as you don't let the metal get so hot it looses it's temper. So, equipped with some extremely high quality Harbor Freight chisels I got to grinding with a belt sander. The chisel on the left is the before and the two on the right are the after. Took me maybe 10 minutes tops. Honing and sharpening took longer. They are not pretty, not by a long shot. But they work like a charm! It was hot that day by the way. I had a swamp cooler running in my garage that is why the humidity is so high. Yes, here in Arizona, 30% humidity is high. The coping saw (or maybe that is a fret saw, I always get the two confused) was from Harbor Freight as well. I assumed that it would be worthless and frustrating, but the thing cut like a champ. This teak is extremely easy to work this so I don't know how the saw would have performed in something less forgiving like oak, but I am happy with how well it did. Dry fit of the sides. I did not plan to make these proud dovetails, I wanted the dovetails to be just a tiny bit proud so that I could just plane them flush. I added 1/16" which was way too much. But I love it. So I'm keeping it. With the sides of the box done it's time to make the bottom and the top. These are pretty simple in that both of them are just rectangles with a bevel, but I was having trouble wrapping my head around how to do the bevel. Then I remembered something I heard in a Youtube video at some point. I can't remember who said it (I think it was either the Highland Woodworker or maybe William Ng) but it has stuck with me for years. I'm not going to quote it but it was something to the effect of: If you break woodworking down to it's simplest form, woodworking is just marking a line, and cutting to the line. No matter if you are using a chisel or a table saw or sand paper or a plane, you are just marking a line, and cutting to the line. So that's what I did. I marked the line.... And started cutting. At first I was using just a block plane but that was pretty slow so I switched to the scrub plane and things started really moving fast. I would get close with the scrub plane.... Then finished off with the block plane. Not only did this work very well, it was pretty fun too. It went surprisingly fast. The scrub plane even worked really well on the end grain. Sides, top and bottom are done, all that is left is the internals and the lid handle. I used some of my kids construction paper to mock up some lid handles and finally landed on this one: This is where the "Up-Side Down Right-Side Up" part of the name come in. At some point while figuring out the lid hand I had set the box down up-side down. I stared at this up-side down box for a really really long time. I was stuck, I had no idea which look I preferred. I like both looks so much. In the end I decided to keep this thing the original way I had designed it. I figured that since this was such a simple build it would be no problem for me to build an up-side down version in the future. Dowels were used to attache the lid. We are pretty much caught up to the present. All that's left is to put finish on. My finishing schedule is two coats of boiled linseed oil followed by Danish Oil and finished off with paste wax. I have used this finish before and it is by far my favorite. The only down side is that it takes a really long time. Even in the desert heat I have to wait multiple days between coats. After the finish is all cured and done I'll get some glamour photos and report back. Thanks for sticking with me.
  40. 2 points
    I think that covers everything I'll keep those notes as I move forward. I'm going to make this in parallel with other projects so it may go a bit slower than my typical pace. Megan really wants to start wrapping up rooms of the house and that means i have to finish the furniture for those rooms. The next BIG item on the list is dining room chairs, I admit I've been dragging my feet on them a bit as it's a daunting project.
  41. 2 points
    Hey Drew, that's great. It's a fun project, and I'm pretty happy overall. There were a couple of minor things that I wish I'd known ahead of time. The biggest complaint I had was discovering that my back saws wouldn't fit in the height for the saw till. The Veritas tenon saw is over an inch too big, and another Disston saw was about the same. I also found the gallery was bigger than necessary, so I would have had the left side of the cabinet go down to the shelf above the drawers for the 6 inches or so of the till (dropping two cubbies). Actual hand saws require almost the full height of the cabinet, so I'm OK with putting the one I have in the door. The plane cubbies aren't very deep, so they end up being useless for anything bigger than a #4. As it is, I had to plan what was in the doors so it left a gap where the bottom of the plane castings are. If you wanted to make it more useful, adding 1/2" to 1" to the carcass depth would make a big difference. I'm limited on space since it's over my bench, so I'm happy as is. In the shorter plane till, if you follow the plans it's just barely big enough to squeeze in a #5, but I wanted to plan for possibly having a low angle Jack later. This was an easy fix, just requiring a wider piece of plywood and a shallower angle. I think I ended up at 14 degrees instead of 16. I didn't bother making it full width since I don't have that many planes, but I can later if necessary. Both plane tills hold the planes, but they're not in there all that firmly at that angle. I will be adding some magnets behind the plywood. I'd still build it the same next time. The piano hinges worked fine, but I bought the heaviest ones I could. I wouldn't want anything lighter duty on it. The butt hinges would have worked too, if I'd been willing to spend the extra on them. I ended up deciding the card scraper tray was way overkill for the 7 scrapers I have, which is why they went into a cubby. This depends on your tools. As I said, I'm replacing it with a drawer. With the carcass, I built the carcass, then built the doors. This wasn't a great idea, since I ended up having a discrepancy in size of between 1/32 and 1/16, which I then had to plane and sand away. Clamping the doors to the carcass worked to a point, although one door warped a bit after I put everything up. Hope this helps. Let me know if I can answer anything else.
  42. 2 points
    And after confirming with the tech that the capacitors are sold individually what arrives? 2 sets of 2 capacitors. I guess I'll be calling Felder on Monday.
  43. 2 points
    You guys in the USA are lucky. Every time I use walnut ( I think this is the 3rd time) I fall in love with it more. It’s pricey in Australia though so I’ve only ever bought a small amount I’m making a few toy planes to give to friends and went for a walnut and a Victorian Ash plane. The Vic ash I’ve got is a common plantation hardwood here and is much lighter in colour than most I’ve seen. The walnut is amazing though. I can’t wait to get some finish on this
  44. 2 points
    Glad I saved the Sawstop extension and legs i had left over when I installed the SS router table extension on my PCS. I knew they'd come in handy. Clamps under the table, easy on, easy off.
  45. 2 points
    Blades came yesterday so I installed the 1" Lenox CT. Not having had a blade I couldn't square the table up, so I took a few minutes to do that. +1 on the tilt simplicity and stability. I adjusted the blade guides, which are really similar to the ones on my Inca, but with easier adjustments - parallel side roller bearings with micro-adjustment and a perpendicular thrust bearing behind, top and bottom. The micro-adjustments are very easy and hold their settings. Hopefully with a 1" blade they'll never come into play. Same with the thrust bearings. This saw is capable of really high tension, but once you get any flutter out of the blade it tracks great without having to crank the tension. No discernible drift at all. The blade guide post was set perpendicular from bottom to top. The chain and sprocket lift mechanism is a joy. +1! Within the first inch of resawing a ~6" sapele cutoff (covered in hydraulic fluid, but that's a whole other story) I knew it was a keeper. Like butta! The cut was consistent along the length of the piece with a very nice finish. +1 I'll post a more in-depth review of the saw once I have some time on it, but for now, WOW!
  46. 1 point
    Happy with my Hammer A3/31 J/P combo although I still lust after a Felder like @Llama ...after this basement maybe
  47. 1 point
    @Mark J Have you tried https://f360ap.autodesk.com/courses I'm not criticizing any of the software either. I'm just pointing out that Fusion360 is intended to be perpetually free for people that are using it for hobby use or commercial use that makes less than $100k/year. Autodesk, despite their other failings, is good at putting their products in the hands of individuals for free. @wtnhighlander My comment may came off as critical at FreeCAD, wasn't my intention. From my first 100foot view of using it for about 2 min it seems awfully capable but appears to have a steep learning curve. I personally found fusion to be a little bit less steep (like 0.5%) but I've been using Autodesk products, much to my displeasure, for a large part of my life . Personally i think strait up AutoCAD 3D is the easiest and fastest way to do what you want but I can't find a way to get you that software for cheap let alone free.
  48. 1 point
    Brian, I'm thinking of starting my cabinet soon. What advice do you have to someone that is thinking of making one of these? I thought you mentioned that there was a dimension that you'd have increased knowing what you know now. I'm looking at some awesome QS ash on my rack that I'll never use for anything around the house. I'm thinking of cutting it up for the case and the internal dividers.
  49. 1 point
    Generally speaking, divide it into 3rds Cost of materials, consumables etc. Second advertising and overhead, and third what your time is worth to you. Some folks charge $25 per hour, some charge $75 per hour. That's your neighborhood to tell you what value your time is.
  50. 1 point
    Thanks for your feedback. Im not looking to ship just sell locally. Im sorry I’ve created some drama here. Thanks again Tina B