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  1. 10 points
    I am starting a project that I have been thinking about for years and for different reasons have been putting of. My Dad served in WWII in the Navy and my Father in law was a career Navy man and veteran of WWII, Korea And Viet Nam. I have both of there flags and have wanted to build cases for them both but really wanted to do something a different from the normal looking cases. I have spent a lot of time thinking about this and worrying that I would finish them and then come up with a better idea... time wasted sort of. Then this last November my youngest sister lost her husband in a car accident. He also spent four years in the Navy and then almost 40 more working as a government employee with the Navy in weapons development and that is all he could tell us. All three of them were true God and Country men. When my sister asked me to make a case for his flag I figured it was time to get of my duff and do all three at once. I have come up with some design ideas and made a couple of proto types out of poplar to kind of work out the details and to see if what was in my head would actually look good and work. All three will be the same and made out of Sapele. I went to the lumber yard today and got this really nice of 8/4, 10 inches by 12 feet piece. Did my rough layout and then broke it down using my jigsaw. Then over to the band saw to rip it to rough width and then resew it to rough thickness. After that I sticker it all and I am going t let it set for a few days to see if it wants to move in any way. I honestly don't think it will, while I was breaking it down to this point I didn't get the feeling I was releasing and tension. But you never know.
  2. 9 points
    I restored this Stanley 112 Scraper from what was called a "basket case" It was just hidden under surface rust and crud. I love these scrapers, as well tuned they are great at giving an alternative to sandpaper on figured wood. If anyone is interested in seeing the others, I'll post them too. I've been doing this for 25 years and as I just got back into woodworking after a long break; I have been getting planes and so forth to restore.
  3. 7 points
    I have had this small cart that I built for my first lunchbox planer. Then I got the Dewalt 735 and modified the cart to make it work for the new jointer, then I move the jointer and had to make some modifications to make it work in the new location. Needless to say it was becoming a real Frankenstein of a cart and it was small and just a bit top heavy. The other thing that was creeping into my shop was a handful of Festool Systainers. So this last Saturday I decided to remedy both problems with one project. One sheet of pre-finished plywood and six sets of drawer glides later I had this. I tried everything out with the end of my scraps from my dining table build from last year. So at the end of the day I had this. Then this afternoon with some plywood scraps I made this little rack for my sanding discs. I still have to get some finish on it but I used up what little I had on the trim of the planer cabinet. I hung it on the side of the cabinet that hold the drum sander and all my other sanding supplies. I used a french cleat to hang it.
  4. 6 points
    The case was completed last time ... ... but before the drawer dividers can be permanently installed, the legs need to be made and attached. This was the original drawing ... Some has been retained and some has been changed. Instead of curved legs, which I later decided did not match the overall style, I decided on round, tapered legs that will splay out from the case. Before turning the legs, the splay was created by tapering the top of the legs on the table saw. The slider uses a Fritz and Frans jig to rip the end at the chosen angle (8 degrees). This ensured that the splay angle would be the same for all legs. The blanks were then turned to shape. Here I am checking that the near-to-finished legs are the same dimensions and have the same taper angle ... The ends were then cut off and the top was shaped with rasps and sandpaper ... How to attach the legs? Well, that had given me a real headache. I was thinking along the lines of a loose tenon ... overcomplicating matters (as usual). A number suggested simply glueing and screwing. I was skeptical, but of course, a glue joint alone is generally stronger than the wood ... and reason prevailed There are three screws per leg, which were countersunk for the drawers. The glue chosen was Titebond III. All cleaned up, this is what we have (drumroll) ... The splay to the side is 8 degree, and from the sides, the legs are aligned with the front and rear of the case. Drawers next Regards from Perth Derek
  5. 6 points
    This puppy is done! Lots of mistakes but I'm happier with this than anything else I've ever made. For me it was a skill building project and it succeeded in that respect. You can really see the trim tearout and sanding scuffing from trying to fix it up here.
  6. 5 points
    One last shot of the bar top. Client was thrilled with the color. Regarding the 'center mount' drawer slides - we chose them to save as much horizontal space for the column of skinny drawers as possible. The big pull-out for the trash can got 2. They work well enough, but the skinny drawers wobbled from side to side. So, I added hard maple spacer strips under the edges of each drawer box to keep them level and steady. The close tolerance added friction, so I used petroleum jelly (ala John Heiz) to keep them sliding smoothly. But then, what else WOULD one use to lubricate one's wood?
  7. 5 points
    I was recently changing blades on my Jet bandsaw and finding it a pain to squirm behind the machine to pull the power plug. Jet power switches have a pin tract for inserting a pad lock shackle. So I came up with this highly engineered solution. The device is manufactured from hard to find (it was at the bottom of the scrap bin) 3/16" oak dowel. This is the cut to some precise length by eye-chrometer. The ends are then conically machined (in a pencil sharpener) and the whole meticulously hand colored (with a Sharpie). As you can see I have limited stock and when they're gone they're gone (I don't have any more dowel). So in the spirit of One Time Tools I am letting these go for the ridiculous price of 2.71828 Australian Guineas, each!
  8. 4 points
    As I mentioned before, one of these flag cases is for my sister" husband's flag. So besides making the case I thought I would do a photo album of the process for her and her family, so you may see some pictures of steps that most of us know and normally I would not include. Having said that, after letting things sit for a handful of days the first thing I did was mill the pieces for the two sides and bottom of each case. I surfaced one face on the jointer the planed to final thickness, after that then did a light pass through the drum sander on each side just in case there is some minuscule snip that I missed. I very rarely get any off the planer but with the drum sander right there its an easy step to take, then back to the jointer to joint one edge and finally cut to final width on the table saw. The off cut will be used later down the road for other parts. Next on the table saw with my cross cut sled I squared up one end of each side piece. Then using my miter gauge and setting the blade to 45 degrees, I cut the other end on the side pieces and both ends on the bottom. Ending up with three sets that look like this. Instead of using the traditional miter joints for the three corners of the case I an using box joints. I was looking for something that was different from the norm and decided to give this a try. I am cutting the box joints on my router. Using the jig that came with the router for such tasks I clamped the three right side pieces and a backer board and made the cuts with a 3/8 inch up spiral bit. Then I did the same thing for the left side pieces and made the mating cuts. Then I did the same thing on the mitered ends using a jig I made to hold the pieces at 45 degrees to the table. I used the same jig to cut the mating ends on the base piece, flipping the base piece end for end to make the second pass. I had to hit a few spots with a rasp to persuade the fit. First dry fit. I used some blue tape to hold each case together so I could pass them through the drum sander to flush all the edges so everything would be on the same plane when I cut the rabbets for the back of the case.
  9. 4 points
    Been kept busy by an always fun project, Maloof Rockers, 2 of them. One for my house and one for a Christmas present. Always good to do chair projects in twos, at least in my in my opinion. Since you do special cuts/joints, once you are set up for those it makes things go much faster. I started these the last week in April, but with my HS baseball team making the State playoffs, two kids graduating ( one each from HS and college), and general life they have taken alittle longer. These are my third and fourth Mallof Rockers I've built and I think I have it down to about 1 month. I really should show a build of one of these rockers as I've developed a few shortcuts and time saving techniques. Now that I'm wrapping those up, I'm moving to the Hank chair, or at least getting prep work done. Finished the templates for the 2 sides. Made some changes to the original template, added some width to the arm and drew in my curves. Then I made 2 copies of that before cutting out the curves; Here's the cut out curvy one overlaying my full size template; I'll use the full sized curved template to rough shape the side piece once assembled and then use a pattern router bit to get both identical to the final curved template. But I'm getting ahead of myself. Here's the stock I plan to use. Jory loves to use the cheaper stock with knots, sapwood and other imperfections, I plan to do the same; That wood has been air dried 3 years and has been stickered in the shop for the past 6 months. I run a dehumidifier in my shop and that stock is sitting at 8-9%. Here are my pieces to construct the sides, oversized and jointed on the surfaces that go against the fence of the homemade sleds I need to make; Before I make the sleds I think I'm going to make this a double build so next on tap next I need to get pieces for that second chair roughed out. I'm going to go with a different species for the other chair, thinking maple. Need to pull my stock of maple to see what I have. Cherry is another option for the second chair. I do have some hickory and white oak but that needs some more time to season. What is nice with this build is you can use up scraps since the pieces aren't that large, I've got a ton of 8/4 scraps. Of course with my luck the pieces are always an inch too short or an inch too narrow to use!
  10. 4 points
    Works good Coop, a little soft. I just had to include the picture because I like it so much, and it holds a LOT of stogies
  11. 4 points
    That explains those bumps that pop up when I'm working with red oak.
  12. 4 points
    So it took me a couple of months to actually get around to doing this, but I did it. Sheesh! Finding shop time these days is tricky. The burnisher technique worked really well. Did not close up the gap completely but it looks a LOT better. Thanks for all the tips guys.
  13. 4 points
    I made this from cherry a couple of years ago for my office. I used 1/4” bead board for the back and painted it what I called Amish green for a lack of better description. Sorry I don’t have a better view of the color of the back.
  14. 3 points
    Working through some dried blanks. This bowl is 10 5/8" diameter, 5 1/2" height and will be gifted to a birthday girl next month. Basic, twelve-segment rim of cherry upon a body of honey locust. This is all I was able to salvage from a tree taken down in the church's memorial garden back in 2017. I blocked off a whole afternoon with a pile of downed logs, thinking that I'd score some bowl blanks and maybe even a few long cuttings for lumber. Silly me. Honey locust is a bit off the beaten path as lumber goes and it's a trick to work. Apart from the blazing yellow color in the sapwood, it's a brownish ring porous domestic that could be mistaken for oak or ash. And then you try to split it with a wedge. And you try. And try. And you find that locust is not only magnificently dense and hard, it's also ridiculously interlocked. My 10 lb sledge bounced off this wood and I swear I could hear dryads laughing in the distance. After exhausting myself, I contented myself with a single bowl blank and a lesson well learned. Once dry, it turned just fine, responding perfectly well to a small gouge, a scraper, and a round carbide hollower.
  15. 3 points
    Well, started setting up for the second time and just looking at the top I can see a big difference. The t-tracks top bevels are narrower and more uniformed and the throat plate opening is not jagged and sharp either. You can see the flatness is now more of what I would expect too, happy now.
  16. 3 points
    This should illustrate it better .. Regards from Perth Derek
  17. 3 points
    I'd set up the router table for the same exact cut I had it before, test it and when it's dialed in perfectly then run painter's tape the length of the fence top and bottom (if the panels were originally cut vertically) or just along the bearing surface if they were cut with a horizontal slot cutter. The thickness of the painter's tape should open the groove for a good fit.
  18. 3 points
    Dave, it’s peach time in Tennessee and homemade peach ice cream.
  19. 3 points
    Where to begin describing this remarkable stone? I'm a competent sharpener, using a variety of methods. More and more, I use a Tormek for sharpening, but when it comes to my plane irons, I'm very, very particular and do those by hand. Until this point I had a 1,000 grit, a 4,000 and an 8,000 grit stone. And with these I get excellent results. My litmus test for sharpness is once I can easily shaves the hair off my forearm, it's good to go. So fast forward to the Shapton purchase. I was really hesitant to spend a lot of money on a stone that I wasnt sure would provide results that were THAT much better than what my current stones were Giving me. But I bit the bullet and went for it on Amazon, $140. It arrived in 2 days time and the packaging was really cool and nice. (it's a Japanese company) It's a Waterstone that's mounted on a bed of glass. The first thing I noticed while using it is how nice and large the surface area is. It's 8-1/4" x 2-3/4". So it's wider than my other stones and that size feels almost luxurious to use with my wider blades. The next thing is that it cuts so fast I couldn't believe it. It's twice as fine as my finest Stone (8k) but it cuts like a 250. And you only need a few small spritzes of water, no need to soak it before use. So all this info is good and all but the thing that matters the most is... How sharp is the blade after you sharpen on it? And the answer is, it's RIDICULOUSLY SHARP. It's so much sharper than what I was getting off of my 8k stone that I almost don't know how to describe it. It's by far the keenest edge I've ever put on a plane iron, by far. And if course the performance I get out of my planes is off the charts. The last thing to mention is that I also used it as the final Stone to flatten the back of the irons and it leaves a mirror finish. I know that a mirror finish doesn't really impact the sharpness but I liked the way it looks. So in sum this is by far the best stone I've ever used and it's well worth the money in my opinion.
  20. 3 points
    I've seen some gorgeous live edge slab furniture (think Nakashima et al) & I used to love the look. But then it just got to be this crazy thing where every woodworker & wannabe woodworker felt the need to make one (or many). There is still some great stuff being made, but so much of it is crap & ugly & it's just soured me on the genre. I include river tables in that group.
  21. 3 points
    That's next. When we switch, those who's plates have even numbers will change side one day, & those with odd numbers will change the next. You know, to phase it in
  22. 3 points
    If you buy it right after milling, you may be able to use good drying practices to keep it (fairly) stable and flat, but it does take time. It will almost certainly still need some flattening once it is dry. All of the twisted and cupped ones you are seeing are due to people turning the slabs into furniture before they are dried. Air drying isn’t bad, some people just aren’t patient enough to wait 1-2 years to use their cool new slab. Would hate to have your cool new live edge slab table be out of fashion by the time you make it!
  23. 3 points
    So I finally had some time in the shop again today (my one Father's Day request ). I had been waffling on how I want to do the back, which made me waffle on cutting the rabbets, which also made me waffle on cutting the dado for the horizontal drawer divider. Now I want waffles.... I picked up some cherry veneer and a piece of 3/8 BB ply, so I may try my hand at veneer on this. Otherwise I can plane down some cherry boards to the same thickness and go solid. I had been trying to figure out how I would do a french cleat with something like shiplap for the back. I didn't really want to glue up a big panel for the back, which pushed me in the direction of veneered ply. Any thoughts? Rabbets done. I did screw up a couple of the corners. I was sure to make stopped rabbets on the top/bottom so they didn't show through, but I forgot to consider that they need to extend the dovetail baseline by exactly the width of the rabbet in order to make a nice corner. A couple went too far. At least this won't be seen in normal use. Corners still need to be squared up with a chisel. Horizontal drawer divider in place. There's a slight gap on one end, but hopefully it will close up a bit with clamping. Next step will be the vertical drawer divider and then shelf pin holes for the top shelves.
  24. 3 points
    We left off with the drawer dividers a dry fit in the case ... And then this was pulled apart and the case glued up. After a clean up, the ends were looking a little tidier ... Now we've been through this together with the Jarrah coffee table, but for those who want to know how ... The ends are marked (with a washer) .. The aim is the remove the waste progressively to the lines ... This is quick to do with a low angle jack ... .. and finish with a block plane ... Now finish with sandpaper - 80/120/240 grit ... The completed case ... I spent a few hours today turning a few legs. Rather than show the prototypes, I am hoping that I may have enough time to complete them tomorrow - I have the afternoon off! - and then I will post more photos. Regards from Perth Derek
  25. 3 points
    Had to replace my hard drive which put me way behind on updating this project. I'll get to it soon. In the meantime - I'm really happy that I talked myself into the 16" jointer over the 12". Pretty much at capacity! And the surface finish is really nice - no tearout (cutters are still on the original edge after 1 1/2 years of use) and lots of chatoyance! Love this machine!
  26. 2 points
    Signed, sealed, and delivered.
  27. 2 points
    I had a similar problem with some cabinets for my kitchen I glued a sanding belt for my belt sander to some ply wood scrap with a straight edge then I brad nailed a scrap wood fence to the sanding block to the depth of the groove and used this to sand the ply until it fit into the groove without beating the sh_t out of it. Good luck
  28. 2 points
    All finished up except for the pulls on the right side cabinet. I'll replace those as soon as they arrive.
  29. 2 points
    I guess if you can make a pallet out it, it has to be soft. Mom used old quilts.
  30. 2 points
    Less a woodworking question and more a coatings and finishing question. India is the country of origin and who knows what kind of lacquer they used on the top. Don't apply a stain. Stains have pigment and don't form a film finish and aren't going to be compatible. Applying and restoring finishes is a whole different can of worms and frankly most woodworkers are bad at it. If you want it done right find a professional, otherwise you have a lot of experimentation and guess work to do. Any thing you try, do on the underside of the table or on the inside of the side rails aka somewhere out of sight. Don't do anything on the top until you have proven it will work on a hidden spot. If you need to find a professional re-finisher talk to moving companies. They have to fix stuff they damage frequently and will know someone to talk to.
  31. 2 points
    I can give you this much info while we wait for more experienced finishers. Wax has very little hardness so any wax surface coating will not remain shinny for a long time, particularly if handled. Moreover, most film forming surface coatings will not adhere to wax. So once wax is applied you're sorta stuck.
  32. 2 points
    But you do want to keep the dust out of the air. Seal it next time you get bored.
  33. 2 points
    Maybe I should start a site “ I Buy Ugly Starrett’s” and flip them.
  34. 2 points
    Dave, when I get time I want to show you some of the curly white oak lumber, I have cut, cutting cross tie logs. No, Coop it’s not for sale!
  35. 2 points
    Well, at least with a cordless saw you can't put chain oil in the fuel tank. (Not that I know anyone who's ever done something that boneheaded.)
  36. 2 points
    I've been dealing with metric for decades when it come to speed, weight, highway distances and temperature, but in the shop it's always been imperial. For the last month or so I've been using metric exclusively & it is like my brain has been let out of jail. I spend less time doing math & more time making sawdust.
  37. 2 points
    I highlight flaws if i show a way to solve the problem. Between us on here is different than the non-woodworking types. I don't talk about flaws with them any more. I got sick of getting that blank stare and the comment "This is far better than i could have ever done". Boy golly that door panel is purdy!!!!!!!
  38. 2 points
    Call Titebond's customer service. There is a phone number on the bottle. They are very helpful.
  39. 2 points
    I'm going to call this one done. I've mounted most of the the tools that are going to live in this thing. I still have plenty of room for growth, and the front of the outer doors are still very rough. The plan is to carve some panels for those, but given that I've never done a lot of carving, I should learn to to do that first! I've been watching some of Mary May's videos, so over the next few months I'll get to it. Anyway here it is:
  40. 2 points
    I was out of commission for a week+ due to medical issues. In fact I'm still not supposed to be on my feet til Monday-ish but it was 70 degrees out and I was about to go nuts sitting on the couch. So I started my door. Rails and stiles panel
  41. 1 point
    I consistently have a similar problem with plane blades on the MK II jig. The bevel forms more (deeper? sooner?) On one side than the other, despite careful attention to alignment, clamp pressure and grinding pressure. I just thought it was me.
  42. 1 point
    Sweet gum is probably almost as soft as Basswood. An old man told me once that he built a chicken coop out of green Sweet Gum. He said in about a year, the inside was on the outside. edited to add: I looked it up. Sweet Gum is janka 850 Basswood is 410, so it's harder than I thought it would be. It's no good for firewood though. We used to use it to keep a fire going when we didn't want much heat. I know a lot of people that won't even burn it. The last stand of timber we had thinned, the Pine brought $15.25 a ton, and Sweet Gum, that grows like weeds in a new stand of Pines, brought a dollar a ton.
  43. 1 point
    Dave, I saved Coop couple boards of the ambrosia sweet gum. I knew the Houston Boy would want some.
  44. 1 point
    I am a fan of Sapele. The "stripey grain" you mentioned, for me is one of Sapele's more attractive features. However if you pick your stock it will not always show up. There is no need to fill the grain. I am not familiar with aquacoat, but any of the other finishes you mentioned will work nicely. One thing you should do is do test pieces to decide which finish you want to use, it really helps in deciding which finish meets your needs. Here are a couple of examples that show the difference in finish on Sapele. The first is a breakfast counter finished with Emmet's Good Stuff, I really like this for satin finishes, it is very easy and forgiving to apply, and buffs out to a nice satin finish. This is a kitchen island finished with 5 coats of shellac followed by 5 coats of lacquer.
  45. 1 point
    Hang on to the scraps on that stuff, it makes so really pretty bowls and platters.
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    I believe it's available in spray cans, which would be better for this use.
  48. 1 point
    Nice job Cliff! That turned out great!
  49. 1 point
    This is indoor plant repotting. I love yard work. I'm standing outside watching my sprinklers right now... This is my favorite plant. It's a purple shamrock. Easiest thing to take care of because the leaves fold up when it needs water well before it dies. So i use it as a moisture meter, when the shamrock is thirsty everything is.
  50. 1 point
    With the carcase completed, it is time to turn to the internal dividers for the drawers. I took the time first to plane the rebate for the rear panel. Knowing my spatial weakness of getting parts back-to-front and upside-down, I marked these when the carcase was a dry fit (and later briefly thought I had screwed this up!) ... One of the benefits of mitred corners is that the rebate can be planed across without fear of it showing ... The rebate is 6mm deep as the rear panel will be 5mm thick to bend it around the curved rear. The carcase is 20mm thick, and the rebate extends halfway into this. I was curious to see how rebating on a curve would turn out. No problem ... Here is the rear of the carcase with the rebate ... Moving to the stopped dados/housings ... the centre panel is solid rather than a frame. I decided that this would be less work, plus there will be a series of stopped dados to be made. The panel is 10mm thick. This was made first, that is, the dados were sized to fit the panel thickness. I made up a couple of templates. One was the height of the dado, and the other was the height of the dado plus the width of the dado. The inside of the carcase is marked on both sides using the same templates to ensure that they are exactly the same height from the base. The lines are deepened with a knife, and then a chisel wall is created to register a saw cut ... The end of the stopped dado is defined ... A Japanese azebiki was used along a guide to ensure it cut on the vertical ... Now that the sides are defined by the kerf, this could be deepened with a chisel (this is my favourite chisel - a 1" Kiyohisa. Sublime!) .. The waste is removed with a router plane ... Check that the side walls are square ... Completed side panels ... I was so confident that the dados were perfect that I dry fitted the carcase once more ... and then found that one dado was a smidgeon too tight for the test piece. It turned out that a small section of a side wall was not as square as I thought (probably the saw did not cut deeply enough at that spot). The best too to clear this is a side rebate plane. Set for a very light cut to clear the waste, not the dado width ... Perfect fit this time ... Time to fit the centre panel. This has been shaped to size, but will need a little fine tuning at a later time. Note that the rear section is secondary wood (Merbau) ... I had just enough time to slide the panel in. Nice tight fit. Not enough time to saw the rebates for the stopped dados. This will be done next time ... Regards from Perth Derek