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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/17/20 in all areas

  1. 12 points
    Got a call from the camera store that I built the lens case for (two years ago). He wants 3 more.
  2. 6 points
    Beats a day in the office, that's for sure. Milled up 2 cherry and 1 walnut log. All total about 2.5 hrs of hard labor. I'll sleep well tonight. Still have a few walnut and cherry logs to harvest this winter. So many chairs to make.
  3. 5 points
    I saw a new quote today: "To err is human. To really screw up, you need a chainsaw."
  4. 4 points
    Those will sit outside under cover for at least 2 summers, likely longer. I then rotate them into the shop where I try to let them sit for a few more months. I can get them down to about 8-9% that way.
  5. 4 points
    Well order was placed the Supercell unit today and it should be ready to ship first part of next week.
  6. 3 points
    I just turn off my hearing aids.
  7. 3 points
    Search William Ng 5 cuts to a perfect crosscut sled on YouTube he does a nice job of explaining how to get it spot on.
  8. 2 points
    All those chairs, and mostly standing. Conundrum?
  9. 2 points
    My level of respect for Finn just went up 10 fold. They host 3d CAD models of all of his main furniture on that website for free download. Included a screen shot of it open in cad... One of his books also free. https://issuu.com/onecollection/docs/houseoffinnjuhl_catalogue
  10. 2 points
    I always say - if i die for some reason, I hope my wife doesn't sell my tools for what I told her I paid for them...
  11. 2 points
    I also as some others here am influenced by shaker, mission. And me. I like form follows function. I don't mind plywood on the inside but solid is better. I like frame and panel construction. I love figured, matched grain panels. If the client has the wallet for the figured, I get accolades towards me that belongs to the wood. Most of us here know some of the wow factor is about the wood. It doesn't bother me that sometimes I get credit for the beauty of the wood. I look at a highly polished panel and grin. And don't say a word...
  12. 2 points
    I wanted to share this with you Bmac and get your opinion. I really like this chair and i feel like it fits your style somewhat. https://finnjuhl.com/collection/45-chair
  13. 2 points
    The rep at the Felder open house in November told me that it will be introduced at IWF in August, but probably not available for sale until some time after that. I spent most of my career on the supply side for commercial cabinet shops, primarily CNC routers but traditional machinery also, and I tend to agree with @woodenskye. The CNC will be more efficient for the panel products and a traditional TS will suit you for the solid stock. This is especially true if you do high end cabinetry, e.g. corbels, etc. or use traditional high-end joinery. With that said, I would lean toward to SS ICS for safety reasons primarily. All the saws you mentioned are good saws. I'm retired, but now teach CNC and traditional woodworking at the local community college part time. We have 8? Sawstops between 4 classroom/shops. We had one instance last semester where the technology saved a woman's finger. We average about 1 trip per year, usually from someone getting an Incra miter gauge too close. $79 is pretty cheap insurance in my opinion. I'm curious to know what software you'll be running on the CNC.
  14. 2 points
    Felder has an excellent slider and they also just came out with a flesh reacting safety system that does not damage the blade and can be reset in a minute. I am not in your league, but I would definetly give their product a look.
  15. 2 points
    If you're going to be using a lot of sheet goods, get a slider.
  16. 2 points
    Came across this old post and thought I would add my 2 cents. I have custom ear molds from Racing Electronics https://racingelectronics.com/collections/for-race-teams/products/re5-xl I have 2 pair of these and one pair are just the ear plugs. They don’t show a photo online of them so I only linked the stereo version which they all look the same except for the cord. On the ear plugs it is just a small round black cord that connects them together. I have been in the pit boxes at NASCAR during the race and these plugs are phenomenal. These are the same things the teams use and this is the company who supplies them.
  17. 2 points
    Shaker and mission here. Mainly mission I guess. I'll build anything my way and call it my style...
  18. 2 points
    I really like the Shaker style, and I think for much the same reason.. as I value simplicity and purpose. I don't think it's right to just discount it as just being simpler to construct as I think there's a lot of skill that goes into a well made piece. Some of the first furniture I bought in my home before we were married was Danish influence. Again the simple lines I just find appealing. But that being said, my grandparents had some furniture... not sure of the style, but it had extremely ornate hand carvings in it. In particular they had a pedestal table with lions feet carved into the base and extension legs that was really beautiful.
  19. 2 points
    Take a hint from G&G, and make the bread board oversized in all dimensions, and round all the corners. No matter how much the panel shrinks, it still looks intentional.
  20. 1 point
    I like them and continue to buy them even though I have too many clamps. I decided I liked them over the Kreg slide bar automaxx clamps and selling them . There not a good cabinet clamp but better for furniture making....lighter duty...
  21. 1 point
    I guess his main question was design for wood movement or aesthetics. To answer that question ultimately design for wood movement as that will cover both. Designing for aesthetics may cause the table to fail in a way that will ruin the aesthetics.
  22. 1 point
    Might need a bit more detail but I'm afraid your 2nd sketch would not far well. In that sketch you have grain intersecting perpendicular. This would cause long grain to try and restrict the expansion and contraction of the boards perpendicular to that long grain. I made a table like that once .... yeah it exploded. I"m not sure the effect you are trying to go for but if there is a 2 tone unfortunately the best way may be a subtop out of the different species. Make sure that both the subtop and top and oriented in the same direction and they should expand and contract similarly enough to not cause problems. Yes they may be "out of round" as seasons change but i doubt customers are going to bring in a compass and try and prove that. Unless of course these tables are going in the math department or engineering department at a local university.
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    does it have to be flush with the top or can you set it back say 1/2"
  25. 1 point
    What do you mean by a contrasting layer beneath? We made restaurant tables from 8/4 for years . If you restrict it's movement it will cup on you. You have a moisture issue. Sometimes a sustrate with veneer or thin pieces followed by epoxy would be best...
  26. 1 point
    No real world experience, but I think you are correct that plan B will tend to push itself apart. This could be mitigated with some expansion space between each quadrant. But then when the beer spills....
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    Working in a cabinet shop most time I break edges with the orbital sander, it's just the fastest most convenient way, and Billy Jack is right if they painting of staining they want everything done the exact same way. Things like trim and moulding that will be installed and finished on-site by someone else, I usually just take a swipe with a sanding block. Large roundovers get done with a trim router followed up with a quick ROS sanding. On personal furniture items i usually break the edge by hand with the same grit i finish the rest with.
  29. 1 point
    Sounds like you almost own enough.
  30. 1 point
    That doesn't include the sled and is only the miter gauge. If you check out the link you can see the options and what is included. https://www.incrementaltools.com/INCRA_Miter_Gauge_Combos_p/me-mgcombo.htm
  31. 1 point
    William Ng also has a good video on the construction & calibration of a CC sled. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UbG-n--LFgQ
  32. 1 point
    Have you checked The Woodwhisperer site, too?
  33. 1 point
    I'll 2nd the slider. If i was running a pro shop I don't think I'd mess with sawstop, powermatic, or grizzly. If you are cutting just sheet good why do you need 5 or 7.5 hp? I can cut sheet goods all day long with a 1.75 hp saw...
  34. 1 point
    I hope someone takes my tools after I'm not using them and continues to make stuff with them even if that does seem a bit tacky.
  35. 1 point
    I use the the ear muffs that came with my 40 caliber Beretta pistol. Just right!
  36. 1 point
    Congrats . When I saw three motors in that thing , it reminds me of a Fuji HVLP, I think Onieda has something here Let us hear how it works out . .
  37. 1 point
    So this is the crack.
  38. 1 point
    I too started with the Shaker style, for the same reasons you mentioned, clean lines, fairly easy to build, etc. I do 99.9% custom work now for clients and had some requests for MCM and I have to say, the more I built it, the more I liked it. I've done a handful of pieces, some with more Danish influence, and I can see the appeal to it. I still like to do, what I call, "Modern Shaker" which is mostly Shaker, but with a twist. Such as combining different woods, maybe adding some curves to the legs (instead of tapers) or subtle curves to the aprons on tables. Still clean lines, but more subtle details that you have to really look at to notice sometimes.
  39. 1 point
    I mostly break down sheet goods with a guide & circular saw into manageable sizes & then use the TS to trim to final size. If I have a big project using a lot of plywood, I'll set up an auxiliary in feed table and another extension to the left of the blade. The key to accurate cuts is to have the sheet fully supported for the full cut, from start to finish. That way, I'm not stressing & fighting to hold the sheet as well as trying to keep it tight to the fence. And I'll give the tables & fence a fresh coat of wax. With all that setup, it's easy to break down a ton of sheet goods very quickly & accurately. The hardest part is getting the sheet up on the table. There are lots of dollies & devices to ease the carrying & handling of sheet goods. You just have to do a search & pick the ones that will work for you in your shop.
  40. 1 point
    Tom and I are probably the minority’s. I know, torpedo to the stomach one day!
  41. 1 point
    +1 to Tom's advice. Especially with no splitter!
  42. 1 point
    My advice for a table saw is get the SawStop. I had the Grizzly first but getting the SawStop was a night and day difference. In addition to the safety feature, it is simply the best built, best designed, best supported piece of equipment I have ever owned (and that includes tools from Powermatic, Laguna, Grizzly, Jet, etc.). I know there are many who feel that SawStop is all hype or don't like how they came to be a major player in the field, but as an amateur woodworker who can use all the help I can get to do decent quality work, the SawStop has been worth every penny. I also agree with the advice on the planer and jointer. Both of mine are Grizzly with helical heads and I have been VERY happy with them. See, I am not a Grizzly basher after all! :-) Good luck! Jim
  43. 1 point
    Finally got to glue-up for the box. Sanded everything from 100 to 220, did a little tune-up on a couple spots that I left till last, then dabbed some Titebond II on the pins and squared it up. Inserted the false top and now it's taking shape - permanently. So I got out the scraper since this sapele requires a lot of surface prep. Never enough, it seems. Still haven't decided on a finish, but AquaCoat seems to flatten it out quite well. Although I'm starting to wonder if I really need it to be perfectly flat; it's not a table. But it is square. I got stopped because I was running low on propane for my heater and it's snowing today; and a friend dropped by to give me an over/under Beretta 12 GA shotgun... That's a show stopper for sure.
  44. 1 point
    Moving ahead and I'm really pleased with the progress. Completed the front leg joints. I left them bulky to have flat surfaces for the routing, after the routing I placed my pattern over the leg and shaped them some. In this pic the leg on the right has already had a visit with the bandsaw and the one one the left is headed there. Both side supports after bandsawing, starting to take shape; Front legs went quickly; And I think we are starting to see the chair form, but still bulky; Next I did an offset turning of the front legs, following the same steps as the Maloof Rocker. Then cut out the front and back seat cross supports. Dominoed the front joint and it's looking good; And the money shot; I'm really happy how it looks. Still way bulky in some places and I need to attach the back seat support. Also need the back cross supports and headrest cut out. Once thats done and those pieces are fitted I'll meet again with the upholstery guy and get the shaping tools out. This is going way more smoothly than I thought, hoping I'm not overlooking something.
  45. 1 point
    One of the older ladies in our office put up a notice in the break room “ clean up after yourself as Hazel doesn’t work here”. No one knew what she was talking about.
  46. 1 point
    I like to use hardwood or plywood for sled fences as i feel they have better rigidity performance compared to MDF. They also will take a screw and not break apart like yours did. Your fence looks nice and fancy though. Mine is ugly enough to work as a halloween prop.
  47. 1 point
    Just finished off a curly maple bowl I’d been dawdling over between trips. Its 14” across and stands 5” tall. I got to try out some Hampshire Grit I picked up at the symposium. Its not magic stuff, you still have to make a good quality surface before using it but it gives the wood a nice feel.
  48. 1 point
    Huh. What did you say.....
  49. 1 point
    I like these... 3M Peltor earmuffs. They claim 30dB reduction and are comfortable to wear. https://www.amazon.com/3M-Earmuff-Protectors-Hearing-Protection/dp/B00009LI4K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526919010&sr=8-3&keywords=hearing+protection&refinements=p_89%3A3M They work pretty well with my DW735.
  50. 0 points
    Don't laugh. I know guys that peruse the obits every day, looking for dead woodworkers, to get a jump on any estate sale.