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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/21/20 in Posts

  1. 13 points
    A number of years ago, I built my wife a computer desk of white oak with some storage. But it took up and enormous amount of room. Since she's not around to use it any more, I figured I could simplify the space and still have access to the computer. I use her computer for background music when I doing house things. You know, dishes, vacuum, read and sketch stuff. So I built this little table , that might be called an entry table or sofa table. It's made from "very" soft Maple. It's so soft, it made me think that Pine was a hardwood. This Maple is curly, and has a bunch of Sp[alting and around this part of the country it's also called "wormy" Maple. Which is Ambrosia Maple to woodworkers. I bought this wood air dried from @Spanky more than a year ago, and it was 7' long 4/4 thick and 15" wide. It sat stickered in my shop for about a year. So it was dry an d ready to work. If nothing else, it's an eyecatcher. There's a small strip of Cherry along the bottom of the aprons, that I like.
  2. 9 points
    Seat carving process has started and it is going a LOT faster than I thought it would. I was able to get the first seat done in 4 hours and that wasn't overlapping glue drying time. If I do other operations while glue is drying I could easily get that down further but I won't bother timing it because it doesn't really matter. First step is to select material. I had some nice 10" wide boards from my order of 6/4 Cherry. I figured I'd use 2 pieces to make the seat. In order to do the pre-sculpting though that board gets hacked into parts to be glued back together. Spoiler the grain turned out quite nice despite cutting and gluing back together. I'll be able to spot the glue seams but an average observer probably won't look close enough. In the picture above the center of the board is missing. The pre-sculpting works best of the center of the seat is a board about 4" wide. This sets up the pommel area, as well as the main seat area. To make the 4" center I took 2" off of each board, jointed and glued them together to make a 4" board. To start of the pre sculpting and ensure the chairs end up roughly similar, i made a template with index marks to make sure that the profile is accuraly placed on the center board of each chair. The profile is then cut on the band saw. To set the pomel area I needed to cut an angle. I didn't want to tilt my band saw table to do this as that would be a hassle as I use the glue up time to back out the milling for the next seat. Also this doesn't allow the wood to sit long in a partially milled state which may cause movement I don't want. The angle was achieved by setting my fence at 2_1/8" and using a 1" spacer. After the center board is pre-sculpted, I align all the boards and draw on the outline of the sculpted area with my template (the picture is old and the template needed to be cut yet.) Because of the curve on the backside you have to be careful with the profile of the pre-sculpting. It's possible to cut into an area that should be left. The boards just to the sides of center are the main boards that your legs sit over so they are recessed 1/4" from the pomel and sides of the chair. It's kinda hard to see below. The seat area I think is about 5/8" which leaves around 3/4" under your rear. The outside boards are the most complicated to pre-sculpt. It's not really easy to do it on the band saw as you can't do a through cut so there are some weird compound angles and well it's easier to just do as @Bmac instructs and take the outside pieces to your bench and sculpt them with your sander/grinder. This is a step that Mar doesn't do in his rocker videos and it's immensly helpful as you have more room around the part to maneuver your tool to get the perfect shape. I also use a very high tech measuring device to set an offset from the outside line. This tells me about where I want the curved side to stop. I remove the bulk inside the line and then setting the grinder on the angle blend from my rule of thumb line to the outside line. This has helped prevent me from trying to make the sides too steep which doesn't work very well and isn't very comfortable. The outside part after pre-sculpting, next to it is an untoched piece. After this point the seat is ready to be clued together and shaped. With all the pre-sculpting there isn't a lot to be done. Really it's just even everything up. This is why pre-sculpting seems like the cheat code to do this. After I use the RAS with 24 grit paper I go over the seat with a goose neck scraper. This is where I deviate from others. I know Bmac uses 50 grit and the moves into the RO90, while I don't have the RO90 and every time i went to buy it I had a really hard time pulling the trigger. I did one of my trials with the goose neck scraper and found it was an excellent way to get between 24 grit and 80 grit with an interface pad. It may be hard to see in the picture above but after sculpting there are some high spots and some deeper scratches. Trying to level all this out with sanders left a surface that felt like it undulated a lot to me. When i used the scraper I was able to remove those high spots and the surface felt far more uniform. Both were smooth it's more the difference between laser flat and slightly scalloped. The scraper did not leave a perfectly clean surface though. With the changing grain directions there was some tear out and other issues. Goose neck scrapers and difficult to sharpen and get tuned up well so that doesn't help either. So I started sanding at 80 grit on my 125mm sander with the foam interface pad. This generally goes well. but the sander is VERY under powered so care has to be taken to not stall the RO movement. After 80 grit i jump to 120 grit on my 150mm sander with a foam interface pad. Using the 2 sanders back to back it's very apparent that the 125 ets needs more power. Due to the curved surface the 150 nearly jumped out of my hand numerous times. I ended up turning it down from 6 to 4 as i found it almost unwieldy at full power. After 150 is 180 than 220. Next up is finishing touches and round over to the seats then finishing and mounting. The end is near. My goal is to eat dinner Friday on one of these chairs fully finished. If I don't meet my goal so be it but it's my goal.
  3. 8 points
    Shop smells like the finish line!
  4. 8 points
    well like many people my shop is my garage and is completely unheated. its cold in there in the middle of the winter but the last few weekends have been warm. this weekend it was up in the 50s. that's downright tropical for Illinois in February. I have been in there trying to get it cleaned up so that I can make something as soon as it is comfortable. in the mean time to keep from going crazy and start chewing on my leg from cabin fever I have been painting again. never painted with water color till this year and haven't painted in years. but boredom and feeling restless made me pick up a brush again. I thought I would post a few of the painting that I have done and hopeful it inspires someone to try something new.
  5. 7 points
    OK, I promised to do a journal on this, after "teasing" it in another thread. I finally got started, and am now proceeding along at my typically glacial pace. First, material acquisition. I tried a new supplier, as they are open Saturdays, which let me avoid missing work. The prices were decent, but there are a couple of drawbacks. The place is NOT a sawmill, but a "Value Added Reseller". They buy wood from guys like @Spanky and do some sort of processing to it. All their stock was S3S. I prefer rough 4/4, because my work pace means the wood has time to move between milling and assembly. If I start with rough, I have more materials to play with in case a second milling becomes necessary. Also, I had to plane it all anyway, because the thickness was not consistent. Ownership of the place in in transition. As a result, no replenishment of stock has been done for a little while. I had to scrape the bottom of the proverbial barrel to find enough cherry with color. At least there was plenty of oak. The design of the table top calls for two layers, the upper of red oak, and the lower of cherry. To account for contrary wood movement, the disks will be attached only with screws in elongated holes. The grain will be aligned so that expansion and contraction occurs in the same direction, which should minimize the seasonal differences in disk size and shape. The cherry disk is slightly larger in diameter to create a contrasting rim for the oak. As experiment, I tried two methods for cutting the disk. On the oak, I used a jigsaw to rough out the circle, following up with spokeshave and block plane to reach the line. (ignore the background clutter. I'm STILL transitioning into the new space!) This went pretty well. But since I just HAD to try a different technique, I went with a trammel-type circle cutting jig an a router on the cherry disk: I think I'll go back to my spokeshave. Aside from being annoyingly loud, and incredibly messy, the router setup was no faster, filled the room with smoke of scorched cherry each time I paused to reposition myself, and had a far greater potential to go sideways if the jig happened to slip. My router has no dust collection port, obviously: Now I have two concentric disks, still a little larger than intended, just in case. If smoothing and edge profiles go without a hitch, I doubt the client will argue about getting an extra inch of diameter. Next step is to smooth the disks and create the support structure underneath.
  6. 6 points
    I put the last screws in after work. That will free up this weekend to concentrate on building the drawers. There are three screws. The one at the toe is fixed and there is no play for any movement. The two at the rear can slide 2mm each way. Regards from Perth Derek
  7. 6 points
    Here is my current project
  8. 6 points
    I love those bit holders. I did 2" oc staggered. These are the trays I made for my router table cabinet:
  9. 5 points
    I built these matching bedside tables for a client a while back. She was upgrading from some Ikea tables to "adult tables". These are solid maple with a continuous grain pattern around the case. They are about 25" tall and the case is about 18" square. The drawer is a full extension drawer and the drawer front is figured/tiger maple. Finished with a natural oil and buffed out with wax. I have more details of the build on my blog, but these are a few shots of the finished pieces. I'm about to begin making a matching shelf unit now too.
  10. 5 points
    Maybe we should start a pool as to whom will finish first: @Chestnut and his dining chairs, or @pkinneb and his home theater Both have been stellar builds.
  11. 5 points
    Okay, so I decided that the wood screws were a mistake. They would prevent movement rather than permit it. So they had to go. This is the exchange screw: a 12 gauge stainless steel wood/metal screw with an all-important flat/domed head. The plan was to use a 3/4" forstner bit. This would leave a wide, flat area for the screw head to move along. The range of movement would be the same as before, about 2mm each side of the screw. A MDF template was made to guide the forstner bit, as it had no support in view of the existing hole ... Drilled to depth ... A steel washer added ... Done ... I had only 15 minutes after work today, but on the weekend, when I get back to this build, I plan to add a third screw behind the front leg. Regards from Perth Derek
  12. 5 points
    It's time for the drawers. Once again there is a challenge. The design calls for drawer fronts that stretch across the front without being broken by drawer dividers. In other words, "lipped drawers". There are two ways to do this. The easy way is to used "planted fronts", that is, attached fronts to the front of a box ... The hard way is to make the drawer front a single piece. This requires rebating the drawer front and forming a half blind dovetail in the side of the rebate. Courtesy of Christian Becksvoort ... I've chosen the high road (sigh). Today I spent my time preparing for three drawers. Why three and not two, as in the original design? Simply because I can build them narrower, and this will make them less likely to rack. They'll end up somewhere around 280mm wide and 290mm deep. I anticipated that 375mm wide and 290mm deep would be a disaster waiting to happen. The only way drawers that dimension could work is on runners, which I do not do. The wood for the drawer front is more Fiddleback Jarrah (by request), while the remainder of the drawer is quarter sawn Tasmanian Oak (which is actually a Eucalyptus, and is quite unstable unless quarter sawn. I keep a stock for drawers). It is a lot like US White Oak in appearance and hardness. I have a bunch of narrower boards, which I re-sawed to make 7mm thick drawer sides, and glued together two to get the height needed ... No clamps, just blue painter's tape, which is stretched across. It pulls the edges together. This is enough for 4 drawer sides (one spare) ... The drawer bottoms will be 1/4" (6.35mm) thick ..... I cannot go metric here as my plough blade is imperial .... this is re-sawn from a wide board, which saves some effort as only two boards are needed for the bottoms (the grain runs across the drawer) ... Same trick with the blue tape, and cauls are also added to keep it flat. This will be sawn up at the time it is needed, and the panel will remain in the cauls until thn. The narrow drawer sides necessitate using drawer slips, which is a strip added to the sides with a groove for the drawer bottom. This also adds extra width as a runner. The slips are made with a plough plane. In this case, I used both a Veritas Small Plow (to plough the groove) and the Veritas Combination Plow (to plough a bead - the bead lies at the join of the slip and drawer bottom). Setting up both save time switching set ups back and forth, and once begun, making these slips was a quick process ... First plough the bead ... A tip on how to avoid over-planing the bead. This comes from David Charlesworth. Scribble pencil along the top of the bead, and when it is gone, the bead is complete ... Now flip the board around to plane the groove ... The first line is where the groove begins, which is 3mm below the bead. There will follow a 1/4" groove, and there will be 4mm below this to support the groove/drawer bottom. This makes the slip a smidgeon over 12mm high. It is 10mm deep, which allows for a 5mm deep groove. As mentioned, once set up, no further marking is necessary. Just plane ... ... and then rip off the slip on the table saw. This is a mock up: the bead at the top and the groove on the side ... I have a strategy to fit the drawer fronts, so that the edges align with each other. It is all about accurate marking out. This will hinge on getting the opening exact, and transferring the respective measurements to their drawer fronts. First order of the day was to fit (what will become) drawer backs to the front between the drawer dividers. This is what the result looked like ... The table saw can cross cut really close, but only a shooting board will get the final dimension ... On to the all-important drawer fronts! I was heartened that all the verticals were indeed vertical still ... well, except for one (if you look carefully, you will see light in the top half) ... This meant a slight adjustment of that side .. again a job for the shooting board. Set one, mark the angle with a small sliding bevel ... ... transfer this to the side of the board, and head for the shooting board. As the side is no longer square, a shim is used to create the needed angle ... A good result ... This is the join I need to manage ... These are the fronts fitted in sequence ... And here were are now, waiting for the next build day ... Regards from Perth Derek
  13. 5 points
    I shoot various guns at my local club. (I hunt with a bow. More challenging) I’ve recently got into pistol shooting, and it’s not uncommon to go through 100 rounds in a visit. I’ve been shooting reloads made by a friend I shoot with. These come in a variety of old 50 round boxes or plastic bins. I thought I'd build something a little more classy to hold 100 rounds for a day’s shooting. This first one was made with reclaimed scrap mahogany from a messed up re-saw job from a project a couple months ago. I built a sled to put them through the planer and ended up with 3/16” boards. From there, dimensions were built around the ammo, 9MM Luger rounds. Consequently, when all was done there’s a lot of odd sizes. If I build more, I’ll tune it up to easier dimensions. A couple people on the FB group expressed interest in building the same, so I reverse engineered it and made a CAD drawing which I was happy to share.
  14. 5 points
    The legs are on. I must admit to mixed feelings at this stage. This is not my style of leg, but it is what my niece wants. Perhaps I will feel differently with a finish on the wood. The tenons were kerfed for a wedge ... Installed in the bases ... And glued into the socket. Note that only the first third is glued. The rear is free to move ... The bases have been shaped to reduce their impact ... The legs were evened up .. Side view from underneath (one does not see the base otherwise) ... Regards from Perth Derek
  15. 5 points
    I finally got around to loading some trap shells for the Beretta, which is the first time I’ve loaded shotgun shells in ages! But the dovetail/wedge idea worked like a champ once I mounted my little Mec600 on it. So far I’ve only loaded 200 of the 5-600 hulls I've had laying around forever, but that’s enough to go shooting this weekend - finally. A little illustration of the setup... I’m using components I bought over 10 years ago so to me it seems like free stuff That jug of Red Dot has a price on it of about $46 of that gives you any indication of its era. The wads and lead are as old. The primers are pretty new, bought sometime during the Obama administration
  16. 4 points
    I just watched a video on an old technique I thought was very clever.
  17. 4 points
    Current status: Column grills and screen surround are complete Just this corner left worked out the design earlier this week and milled the lumber as well so now its just a couple more panels (5 sm, 1 lg) and some fine tuning. I also received some threaded rod to use for the door pull. I couldn't find screws long enough so went this route. The next update will be the construction complete photo's of the inside of the theater Then on to the bar cabinets...
  18. 4 points
    About five years ago my bro-in-law gave me this A-10 model. I never finished it, we moved twice and the pitot tube got broken off - no idea where that is. It’s in Air Force gray on gray camp, hard to see in the photo but the paint is done. Here’s where it is today, with eight cluster bombs and a couple napalm containers to affix to the underwing mounts. Then decals and details
  19. 4 points
    Ya know how ladies get mad when you leave the seat up ....
  20. 4 points
    I had 2,300!!! I'll start shopping for a Ford GT or Ferrari tonight! David
  21. 4 points
    The process of attaching of the legs was completed by the addition of two screws in the sliding dovetail base. Why add screws? The screws are not to prevent the base sliding back (an elongated hole actually encourages this). It is just to prevent the base twisting in, and breaking out of, the socket since there is no glue there to prevent any lateral movement. The force comes from the splayed and angled legs. They will want to cant outward, and this becomes more so when the three drawers are filled and a vase of flowers is placed on the top of the table. I thought that it is worth mentioning the screws used and how they were inserted. The screws are 1" long brass tapered wood screws. The drill bits are also tapered to match. These ones include a countersink and depth stop. The plan is to drill the hole for the screw through the base and into the case, and then widen the hole in the base. This will permit the base to move with expansion and contraction. In this case 2mm each way. A wider drill bit (and depth stop) .. Before inserting a screw, especially brass screws, they are dipped in a little wax. This is wax for lubricating bandsaw blades ... Here is the widened hole ... The gap around the screw ... The second screw is on the other side of the leg. This is positioned about half way between the end screw and the glued toe. Regards from Perth Derek
  22. 4 points
    I’ll pull the quilt off of my wife for some!
  23. 3 points
    Thanks Dave! We have been enjoying movies in there for several weeks now Not going to lie the picture and comfort of the room is awesome but the sound is down right incredible especially when you consider the price point. One of my last projects as a theater manager was to implement THX systems into the theaters I ran, the average cost was about $400K per theater (just for the equipment) I have less then $10K in equipment and the sound is better, it just blows my mind. We were watching the 4K version of Cliffhanger last weekend and my wife was like holy crap I feel like I can feel the wind of the sub woofers LOL. Really happy with it and definitely feel the hard work has paid off
  24. 3 points
    I think you going to have me beat, the bet only outlined the home theater. I would like to get 1 to 2 more coats of finish on each chair. Sanding between coats on 6 chairs and applying wiping poly takes roughly 2.5 hours. All the nooks and crannies are miserable. I also still have 4 chair seats to complete finish sanding on and need to apply 4 coats of finish to said seats. But If I lied and had 1 chair finished, took pictures, and said I was done who would know the difference? The theater project is incredibly involved and I am thoroughly impressed with it.
  25. 3 points
    Router bases are like underwear, you should have lots & change them often to get the most out of your routers.
  26. 3 points
    Yes my shop is in my basement. The table saw is pretty easy to get down there I took the top off and carried it down mounted on 2 boards with a helper. The planer I took apart as soon as I got it and carried it down with a helper in 3 parts, it wasn't so bad because it was only 300 ish lbs and wasn't an awkward shape. The jointer..... that nearly killed us. I also took it apart to move it into the shop but the beds can't really come off. So the top part with the beds and cutter head weighs probably 450 lbs and nearly put 2 of us through a wall when it started to tip over. My stairs go down about 7 steps and then turn a corner to go down about 5 more. To make the corner we had the main part stood on end it was very awkward. This reason alone is why I'm never moving. If i have to move the jointer is being sold with the house. It'd be entertaining to coat the thing in cosmoline and just build it into a secret room under the stairs or something for someone to find in 100 years.
  27. 3 points
    It occurred to me I have never posted my shop so here is where I try not to go crazy. This is my carving/inlay/bench. its short ony two feet by 4 feet used only for smaller work. my view from my bench everything is garage sale/craigslist buys bought router table from a retiring woodworking, all the rest were bought from people moving. This is sharpening bench a must for any turner. my stone are in a cupcake carrier I bought from doller store best investment for storage and water well I ever found. eventuly it is were I will store my metal working equipment like a mini forge to take out to driveway and a welder. soder ect…. assembly/finishing/glue up/junk table right now I have a couple of projects im in the middle of working on including a table that I want to cut silhouettes of fish on the legs and reshape the legs and brace. It has a flip top to double the surface that I want to take off and mount to the wall above the table. I then want to carve that surface into a rippling water surface with a fish under the water. by the time im done it will look like a entirely different table. best part is cost me 10 bucks to redo it and Im hoping to resell for a small fortune. my sexy sexy lathe will always have this in any shop I own. with this I can have a shed and still make stuff. my miter saw with its useless dust hood that someday I will redo and make work. everyone should have one of these I like to call this my catch all that I have to move everytime I need to cut a board um ya the rest of my stuff when I bought the house there was a covered porch so I put in wall and enclosed it. now I store some of my wood dust collector and air compressor so that when there running a barely can hear them.
  28. 3 points
    Looks like the kind of space you can walk into with a cup of coffee and just feel the stress just running out of you. There are times I just walk out into the shop and look around. It sort of resets my aggravation-tolerance level
  29. 3 points
    At just over 1500 subscribers and 250 videos my channel is monetized. I get about 10,000 views per month. I get about $40 a month for that.
  30. 3 points
    Confucious say: Lessons of experience are always learned just after you needed them.
  31. 3 points
    The patch came out alright, could have been worse. Ended up with a slight gap along the curve on the near side. Flushed up Wiped with MS
  32. 3 points
    I love that Browing although I’ve never shot one. The Beretta was very kind to me today for the five trap rounds and i found I hadn’t really lost the skill too badly after holding off for so many years. I hit a lot more than I missed, and importantly, with that gun I nailed the very first one so ahhh... satisfying!
  33. 3 points
    Update to the cordless drill rack. Here’s how it turned out; reminds me of the Atlantic coast submarine pens on the west coast of France.......
  34. 2 points
    We get a chance to think it through but these things were probably originally made on site with a handsaw and pocket knife and in a matter of minutes while standing up on scaffolding.
  35. 2 points
    Uh, wouldn't changing from underwear to router, make your pants stick out and be heavy as hell?
  36. 2 points
    Rye, with a couple of rocks. Just saying.
  37. 2 points
    ESP. Soon I will be starting a floating walnut vanity and a little more. I will post when timely.
  38. 2 points
    Where i grew up miles upon miles of road ditches would be flooded. No need to get the boat we just hopped on water skis behidn the pickup. It's funny how must pickups have a really awesome place to fasten the tow rope.
  39. 2 points
    As far as I know, the major fires have been dealt with due to the rain. I was at the airport flying back to Melbourne and all planes were grounded for over 4 hours due to that much rain. One fire that had been burning since September had extinguished as well. It was strange. For a few weeks, all of Facebook, the internet and news were only about the fires. All of a sudden, no one was talking about it and that was before the rain. And there’s always that one guy looking for an opportunity.
  40. 2 points
    thanks guys its been a learning curve to learn this stuff again and realize just how much I liked to paint and how much I have lost just from not practicing.
  41. 2 points
    Here are my router and drawers
  42. 2 points
    I cut over a 100 bdft of ambrosia maple lumber today in the rain. Sold 100 bdft of it to a woodworker. Rick, the table looks good.
  43. 2 points
    Thats usually when I have my best ideas also.
  44. 2 points
    Don't ever do it with a table saw. I'm sure there are plenty of reasons you shouldn't do it with a bandsaw too... i just don't know those reasons. If you have questions or want more details let me know i have more pictures that I didn't share in the B roll.
  45. 2 points
    Me too. I thought the 1” piece of wood against the bandsaw fence was brilliant. I would not have thought of that.
  46. 2 points
    After sulking around the house for a while, I decided to try making a patch. I’d already cut dados in the case and milled and fitted shelves (5) and done some other work on it, so I wasn’t ready to throw it in the burn pile. We’ll see how it comes out.I left it a bit oversized so I can flush it up with my #4, or maybe my new (to me) Stanley #3. I didn’t get too far into the rabbet before realizing my mistake... Patch shaped and fitted. Glued and clamped.
  47. 2 points
    Depends on how green they are. If they haven't been dried already, you will probably have pizza slices in a few weeks, instead of cookies.
  48. 2 points
    No I left it for another traveller to take. As a matter of fact one of the other photographers found it and made his own still life with it after I was done with it. Its still there waiting for the next wanderer to encounter.
  49. 2 points
    I get doing that chip done it before for years never liked using it that way. Always felt uncomfortable cutting like that want to try this other way seems like I would be more comfortable. And that’s what matters is if you feel comfortable.
  50. 2 points
    While the others were pointing their cameras at a rushing stream I found a fork in the road and was pointing my lens at the ground.