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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/06/20 in Posts

  1. 12 points
    Quick update, the strip deck is just about completed. A lot of fiddling to get the pieces to fit and you really can do all of this by hand. I've been using a handsaw, block plane and rasps to fit together the strips. Here's were I'm at right now, hope to finish up the deck by the end of the weekend. Stern is pretty much done, 2 very small sections need to be filled in but I'll do that once I take the deck off for glassing; Bow is coming along; To fit together the pieces you need to cut your angles and make a cove where one is needed, rat tail rasp works great; Or make a bead where needed; That piece will fit here; Another neat tool is to use a small piece of stripping wrapped in sandpaper to help shape your coves and beads; Thanks for looking.
  2. 7 points
    I know @Chestnut, I'm dragging on this build. Actually been pretty busy cleaning up around the house after a near miss with a tornado. Fortunately for us we weren't hit but high winds still did some minor property damage. Also, it was tedious putting together the strip decking. I think if I do another one of these (perhaps not if, but rather when), it will go better. Took me a while to get the feel of it and the process down. But nevertheless, I'm now done with the top deck. Did a little cleanup of the surface, but will wait for the final sanding and finishing of the topside after I glass the underside of the deck. So here's where I'm at; Pic from the bow; From this pic you can appreciate the sweep and curve of the deck, this made it a little challenging putting the deck together; I struggled here where the deck meets the cockpit combing. This is my best area as far as results are concerned; You can see in this pic I didn't do as well here as some strips aren't as tight to the combing as I'd like them to be. I plan to run a bead of thickened epoxy on the underside of this joint prior to glassing to fill in any gaps. So after I was done gluing up the deck I removed the nails that were holding it in place on the forms and took a deep breath before I teased the deck off the forms and hull. This was stressful as I was trusting I didn't accidentally glue it down any where. My packing tape did it's job and I was able to carefully pop the lid off. Here's the deck sitting with the underside exposed; At this stage I need to clean up the joint between the combing and the deck, I need to remove excess glue and clean up the underside of the deck, and then I'll need to glass the underside of the deck. Thanks for looking.
  3. 6 points
    Did the top coat spraying today. First 2 coats were endurovar. My can started to get gunk in the bottom so i figured it was time to empty it. I also did the card box at the same time. This is the one that i did my first hand cut dovetails on. After endurovar i sprayed a heavy coat of vetethane WB poly. I did the last coat so i could sand get get a silky smooth feel. Low humidity and working in the sun dry time was about 1 min. So i got over a quart of finish over 3 coats down in 2 hours.
  4. 6 points
    Not today, but the past two days, I went back to work in the rental house. I decided I'd spend the rest of this Summer working in air conditioning. I had quit working on it, the second week in February, when we started our own quarantine, and I laid my helper off. I've grown to like working by myself better anyway. With the virus, we really didn't want to get into dealing with groups through this season anyway, so I had lost my motivation to get it done quickly. The doorway into the bedroom that I put the handicap shower in was enlarged to a 3' door. That took most of a day because I didn't want to make a mess in the house, and everything had three times as many oversized nails in it, than it really needed. Then I went back to putting the vinyl plank down. Installing Luxury Vinyl Plank goes along fairly well, but it's a lot of work for one person. Each piece requires getting up, and down from the floor multiple times sometimes. I have the hard part behind me, fitting it into four doorways down a hallway, ending in a curved wall, fitted flush with a slate floor at some weird angle, and ending against a stone chimney. The toolboxes are stacked there to hold the glued down ends of the flooring just right with the adjoining slate floor surface, and to help me remember not to step on it until it cures. Last night, I told Pam that I was unusually tired. I said that it wasn't really Hard work, but was very tiring. She said, "You do realize you're 70 years old now." I said I thought my young girlfriends were keeping me young. She said, "You WIsh." The house has so much wood in it, that we didn't really want woodgrain for the floor, but couldn't find anything else that the color went along with it. Everything currently in fashion is mostly gray, but this house is all warm tones. I wouldn't want this in a house we live in, but it looks like it will be good stuff for a lake rental house.
  5. 5 points
    Spent some time de-stressing in the yard. Staff meetings for this school year start in the morning.
  6. 5 points
    I smoked a pork shoulder yesterday and let it rest overnight. Today I'm making a green chile stew using some very fresh Hatch green chiles I roasted and peeled. Gonna be great for dinner tomorrow!
  7. 4 points
    They are less likely to get stolen.
  8. 4 points
    Anyone else perk up on work calls anytime someone says "dovetails" or is it just me?
  9. 4 points
    You're not alone! Tonight I went out to the shop to start on the bath vanity wanted to get some leg material cut down so it would be ready to go Wednesday night. As i'm ripping them down on the table saw i'm thinking what is going on with my dust collection? I shut down the saw look inside and see dust accumulating so I pull the flex pipe off the manifold only to realize i hadn't opened the gate Be that as it may I did get my legs rough cut LOL
  10. 4 points
    This was all work done this weekend. Humidity was low so outside work wasn't awful. Started by mulching our "woods". I got all the buck thorn cleared and have enough of the trees cut down that I want to take out. The tree going off at a random angle in the following picture is on the chopping block. Mulch in place and raked out. Then I finished up the cupcake stands for out wedding. I really only had finish sanding left. Megan wanted them a darker color but being poplar I wasn't about to rub on a stain. So HVLP and dye did the trick. Before. After. With not a block to be seen. The color is so uniform it looks suspicious. It falls into that man made box now for looks imo but it beats painting.
  11. 4 points
    Cause that's when I break out the beer and start admiring my work!
  12. 4 points
    Here is one Harbor Freight tool to never buy. I bought the die grinder when I was working on a tractor, and had to enlarge some holes in 3/4" steel. It did the job, but such a die grinder with a locking switch is a Dangerous thing. I was using a carbide burr. It grabbed, bent the shank, and jerked the tool out of my hand. it climbed the cord, since the motor was locked on, and slammed into my knee, after wrapping itself up in my jeans leg. The knee stayed sore for a couple of weeks. I was lucky that there was no flesh damage. The die grinder was put away, and not needed again util this past week. It grabbed again, this time in aluminum. I only kept it long enough to take this picture. After taking this picture, it went in a trash can. I wouldn't even give it to anyone else. I had ordered the Makita. It's living in luxury compared to the Harbor Freight one. The Makita is soft start, has a comfortable trigger switch with no lock, and even has the collet connected to a spring that has some give in case of a grab. It also has bearings, instead of bushings like the HF one, and runs really smoothly.
  13. 4 points
    I used Tru-Oil on my uke and was pleased with how it turned out. It creates a high gloss finish that you can knock back with steel wool to your desired sheen. You’d need to do some tests to make sure it plays nicely with the stain though. Application is pretty easy and forgiving.
  14. 4 points
    There are hardboard siding panels sold in the box stores, that looks a lot like T111. It has an embossed woodgrain texture, but no footballs, and all you have to do is paint it, since it's already primed-no sanding needed. I put it in our dogroom, and newest closets. I think this is LP Smartside. Everyone that's seen it, including a couple of architects, has made positive comments about the way it looks. The grooves are on 8" centers, so it makes it easy to find the studs. I nailed it up, by hand, with 6d cement coated nails. I hit the nails with a slash of oil based primer, and sprayed it with latex. You have to look hard to find the nails, but you can find them if you look closely. I've used it several times in other houses, done the same way, since I built this dogroom in 2006.
  15. 4 points
    If I return it I'll definitely replace it with the Byrd, but it's for the same model jointer so I would use the same bearing blocks, etc. The picture of the Byrd has the shoulder in the same place so I would have the same issue with the spacing. Just sent an email to a local machine shop to see if it's something they can do and get an estimate.
  16. 4 points
    I purchased a Woodmizer LX55 with electric motor recently. I'm loving it. It's all manual, 22" width of cut, and handles a 26" log. I don't know the depth of cut but I'm sure it is posted on the website. I went electric because I may go months without cutting and because I have a place for it under my shop. I've been cutting mostly small logs of hard to find stuff. Persimmon, dogwood, sourwood, and beech in the last week.
  17. 3 points
    So you guys got me curious. I have never thought much about dust on the walls so I went out tonight and looked this is 15 years of dust on the egg shell white wall at the back of my shop...No comments about the door trim it was early in my journey LOL
  18. 3 points
    I would set up two of my router/"shaper" rigs for the two cove and bead bits. A shop vac gets 100% of the dust. The PVC pipe is the air intake, that keeps chips from being thrown out, while protecting fingers. You can see the router is still perfectly clean, and it's run hundreds of parts without touching it. You can see the way that's built on the Windows page on my website.
  19. 3 points
    When I lived and worked in that shop the ground gets covered in green wood shavings and every day we sweep them up into a pile. the track lighting is only for the evening, all the windows provide amazing natural light. it was a great experience
  20. 3 points
    The bottom pic is indeed the current gee-dub woodworking area . The garage is jammed, the sheds are jammed, come-on concrete. Thank goodness we only get between 5 and 20 inches of rain all year; 5 being too little and 15 being too much. Desert living, it's not for everyone
  21. 3 points
    I did much as others have stated with a shop made guide. I was a firm believer in this system working quite well and it did. I say this because now I am a convert, which surprised me. There was a Makita 6000J on sale with a couple of tracks and I took advantage of that. I do have to say that the track system is much easier to setup and achieve consistent repeatable results. As you state you are new to this I would recommend a track system. I can get good results from my shop made guide because I have a reasonable amount of experience working with it and other power tools. I can do the same work with a track system while applying near-zero skills. The track makes it nearly impossible to make a bad cut and the plunge mechanism on the saw adds an element of control and safety. The Makita on Amazon is currently about $540 USD with the additional track and connecting rails. This would be about ₪1,840 NIS but, I am guessing about the retail price of the tool in Israel so forgive me if I am way off ;-)
  22. 3 points
    IT WAS THE BEARING! Thank God I did not send the cutterhead back. SKF bearing came in today and while I haven't seated it completely it's at least as tight as the cheapest one and I think tighter. Also tying the links together solved the twisting issue. It's a good day.
  23. 3 points
    I've made good progress on the parallelogram. This mechanism needs a lot of precise holes and my drill press is junk. So I'm using a plunge router with a guide bushing and templates to make all the holes. I'm putting the holes for the middle rod that doesn't move directly into the sides of the jointer rather than into a rail. This means I have to assemble the mechanism in place rather than drop the whole thing in. Some of the rods need to come out through the front of the jointer anyway so that wouldn't work. This template has a round piece that locates the template by the hole for the bearing housings. That same template is used for the holes in the pieces that will attach to the infeed table by adding a spacer. Here you can see that round piece. And here is a test assembly of the links. You'll note that I'm trying to get by with just one rod at the bottom, rather than linking them together at the bottom. With this geometry if I made the other link the same as the one by the cutterhead it would be sticking out past the end of the infeed table. I might have to change this, but we'll get to that in a minute. That lower rod needs to come through the side of the jointer, so I have to make an arc cutout. I lucked out here in that the flange of the bronze bushings I'm using has the same OD as the guide bushing, 1". This means I can just use the template I made the holes with as a compass to route the arc. The two clamps acted as stops and I was able to go half way through and flip it over without moving the clamps and do the rest from the other side. That catches us up to the assembly of the case and I have now added in the kerf bent sides. Of course I took the time to space out the screws evenly and countersink to a uniform depth. I finished doing those screws back on the table saw with its flat reference surface. The rolling table in the middle of the shop conforms to the floor. Before I put in those panels it wouldn't rock when I moved it from the table saw to the table. After the panels it did rock, but after an hour or two it had settled and didn't rock anymore. So it's not really stiff enough yet. I have more bracing to put in on the infeed side that I don't want to put in without the parallelogram finished to make sure there's no interference. But it's going to be a bit weak in the middle since it's open at the bottom to the chips fall. So it might never be quite as stiff as I'd like it to be. It's not going to move from its spot once it's done so I'm not overly worried about it. And here is the parallelogram with the cast iron temporarily in place, not actually attached. I wanted to test out how hard it was to move the control rod with the weight of the cast iron on it. It's not too bad as you have a fair bit of leverage, but the plan was to add some counterweight. I was going to tie a cord around the lower control rod and run it over the fixed rod at the back and hang a weight on it. However I found that the amount of force required to lift increased as the table got lower. A spring would provide increasing force and be a lot more compact. So here is me tinkering around with just a spring from a desk lamp. That little spring is all it takes to make all that cast iron float and you actually have to push it down at the bottom, but that's well beyond the realistic operating range. The problem this is really exposing though is that the two long control links are able to twist slightly. I'm hoping this is going to go away once I tie the links together with a spacer. If that doesn't completely solve the problem then I'll have to tie the links together at the bottom. Since I can't tie it to the other existing link, I would have to add a third link in between. This wouldn't be too big of a deal. Let's face it, we've reached the point where the project budget is a laughable memory. May as well throw in some ultra precision shafts at $140 for 36", right? No, we haven't gotten that far off the rails. Yet. I do have a set of micrometers coming to measure that $%^@ing cutterhead though. Settled on an inexpensive brand that had decent reviews but of course the size I need is the one size with no shipping option that would arrive next week. Because of course. So the set of 3 was only twice as much with the coupon anyway. How annoyed would I be 20 years from now the next time I need to precisely measure something and I only had a 1 to 2 inch micrometer and not a 0 to 1? I'm sure I'll be able to find them, too.
  24. 3 points
    And I have a sound bar with some kind of woofer damn speaker that I have no idea how to operate. And a wireless printer unconnected to my computer that just sits there. At least my 5 gallon water dispenser, not connected to anything, continues to work. Looking fantastic Paul.
  25. 3 points
    It took a pro ten hours, besides the headache what would you have put yourself through if you had tried it yourself. I just bought a new TV and have been fiddling with the color off and on for a few days. I stumbled across a Youtube video of a guy setting the color on the same make and but larger screen. I copied down his numbers and set mine the same way and I am happier then pigs in mud.
  26. 3 points
    Looking really great, I’ve been trying to calibrate a small sound system in my basement, driving me nuts, and why does the last 20% of a project take 80% of the time to complete? at least that’s the way it goes in my shop
  27. 3 points
    So been busy knocking off little things... molding by patio door complete 1/4 round installed in bar Sink is in and working Other than doors and drawers the bar is complete Also this week I received the vent so I can do the final on the popcorn fan, who knew it would take 11 weeks to get such a simple piece lol Finally in a twist of luck Friday I was researching how to dial in my sound system when I quickly decided it was just not in my lane and I really didn't have the time or desire to learn how to do it at this time. So I reached out to a well known calibrator from OH to see when he might be in the MPLS area. Well he texted me yesterday morning to say not only was he in MN but had a free day and if I wanted he could come out, after 10 hours he had both my projector and sound system calibrated and let me tell you I am ecstatic!! I thought it was great before but now its down right awesome if I do say so myself Funny how life just works out sometimes... While he was doing that I had a crew of folks at my house working with me cutting down some dead trees that were threatening the neighbors power lines so it was a very productive day on multiple fronts.
  28. 3 points
    I know how I'm going to be making timber framing pegs.
  29. 3 points
    Meanwhile in the realm of things made of wood, where things make sense... Got enough done on the sides that I felt it was time to join them together and the table saw is my best flat surface. Should be fun getting it down. This is the back and the big hole is for the motor to stick through. Small slot under the cutterhead is to tighten the bolts. There's a slot on the inside under those to be able to get the bolt in. I haven't drilled the holes from the cutterhead to the slot yet as I don't quite know the exact location of those yet. There's fun stuff on the front side but we'll save that for tomorrow when I test out the parallelogram.
  30. 3 points
    No response from the machine shop, and this time Grizzly CS was on the ball so the cutterhead will be going back to be replaced with a Byrd. Assuming they agree there's something wrong with it. But well, I have the bearing sliding on the shaft on video if they want to play games. The small planer cutterheads are so small that the pulley is about the same size as the cutterhead and the pulley always ends up on the front side of the machine. So it becomes difficult to joint anything wider than the cutterhead. I don't have any interest in the rabbeting capability of a jointer, but that shallow rabbet on something wide is important. You could do it by removing the fence and have the overhang on the back but then you have no fence. Also not really a fan of having the bearing housings be made of wood with something with spinning blades. So using a cutterhead made for a jointer means I could get the off the shelf bearing housings for that jointer. And you still have issues with getting the right parts if you don't want to use the screaming universal motor, or you're just buying the Byrd head for one of them. It's going to have a metric shaft for the pulley and your motor is going to have imperial. So I'm seeing all these builds on Matthias' site where they are using some weird pulley and belt from a car because you just can't order that stuff from McMaster. There was also a bit more value as far as how many carbide cutters you're getting per dollar with the bigger head.
  31. 3 points
    I have experience doing this in my previous shop. When I needed to add a few more outlets during a rearrange effort being able to pull stuff off the wall, pull the panel screws, drop the panel, run the new electric and replace the panel was great. This was primed and painted 7/16" OSB. I did not tape the joints and never really noticed them. I plan to use thinner ply or OSB again on the new shop. Painting it a bright semi-gloss white really increased my light output. There was a code requirement where I live to use 5/8" drywall above and below the load center so you may want to check your local codes.
  32. 3 points
    And we have reached the period of maximum dynamic stress on the project and are throttling back the engines. This is where all the parts are here and I ought to be able to really get moving but in reality this is where we discover issue after issue and frustration mounts. The bearing blocks are held to the frame with a bolt, called out as an M10 x 1.25 on the Grizzly parts list. So I ordered some long M10 x 1.25 bolts along with my McMaster order. They go in half a thread. They are supposed to be 1.5 thread pitch not 1.25. Trip to Lowes and an extra $5. Fine, not a big deal. One of the bearings from Grizzly was junk right out of the bag. This is the state of affairs with tools from oversees now. My Jet lathe came with a bad headstock bearing out of the box. I should have known better than to even order them but they were cheap so I rolled the dice. Added good bearings for twice the cost to the McMaster order and those came in along with the rest of the stuff. And here is where things go downhill. I got the smaller bearing on the front side on last night. Went on pretty hard and took longer than I expected so I saved the other side for today. This time I prepared better. I would normally have stuck the thing in the freezer first to freeze it but there isn't enough room so instead I stood it on a jar with an ice bath around the shaft. Bearing went on super easy. Kind of too easy but I didn't really think anything of it, besides which I was distracted by the fact that it not only went on too easy but it went on too far. The housing came right down against the cutters. That's not right. I quickly made a wooden spacer to go in there. Then this evening the package from Grizzly with the pulleys came in. Now that I have all the parts in hand I understand better how this is supposed to go. That pulley has an extended collar that sits up against the bearing. There is no set screw on the pulley. It's supposed to be held in place by a washer and a left hand screw into the end of the shaft. But you can see without my wooden spacer the pulley is half an inch from the end of the shaft. So something ain't right here. However looking at the picture on Grizzly's site, the shoulder looks the same as in the picture https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-12-Helical-Cutterhead-for-Jointers/T27696 So I'm confused. I must be missing something. Anyway it gets worse, because everything is warmed up to room temperature now but that bearing still slides around on the shaft. That's no good. A loose bearing will let the shaft spin inside it and wear down the shaft. This happened on my table saw arbor. So, yeah. There should be a section of the shaft where the bearing seats that is a few thou thicker but it's not there. That's why I thought the pulley must be a press fit because the shaft is all the same diameter, but nope. Two options: Send it back, which is the sensible thing to do. Or make it work. There's a trick of hitting the shaft with a punch all around it which raises up some metal. I did this to fix an undersized shaft on my edge sander build. The proper fix is to weld all around the shaft and then machine it back down to the right size but I don't have the equipment for that. If I send it back, I have to pull the other bearing off and as hard as that one went on it's going to be damaged pulling it, no question. So new bearing. The shipping crate is damaged, would have to fix that. It took their customer service 3 days to even answer my email about receiving the wrong power switch (Giving them some slack due to covid on that one). So wait three days. Ship it back. Wait for the replacement. Two weeks if I'm lucky. Yeah that $75 less compared to the Byrd was not worth it. And just to rub some salt in the wound, the pulley that goes on the motor is for a 7/8" shaft instead of a 5/8". So I could get an adapter. Or I had the option of ordering either these multi groove pulleys or v belt pulleys. They did an update to the model and the multi groove was part of the update. I went with those because overall ordering everything was cheaper that way and I wasn't sure if it was a 2 v belt pulley or single. But, the belt is also super long. The motor is going to end up way down in the leg and I have to cut a big hole for the motor to stick out the back. It's not ideal. So instead of the adapter I may just order their v pulley for the cutterhead and then I can order a 5/8 pulley and whatever length belt(s) from McMaster. It's only money, right?
  33. 2 points
    Go with a slightly tan tinted off white. Then you'll never know the difference when they get covered in dust. Anything in gloss is probably your best bet. I don't think there is a dead ringer solution other than a leaf blower a few times a year.
  34. 2 points
    It's gorgeous. The thing that impressed me the most, in the American History Museum, at the Smithsonian, was the very old kayak built by Eskimos. It was a thing of beauty, and necessary for their survival, all made by hand with primitive tools. I think the skin was seal skin. I looked for a picture, but couldn't find the exact one. They went out in these, in water cold enough to kill you if you fell in, to feed their families.
  35. 2 points
    I break down sheet goods with the saw guide that Tom King shows for at least 30 yrs, it is safe and effective far easier than running through a table saw. The saw guide costs next to nothing if you have some scrap ply laying around. A couple quick camps on some saw horses The 2x4 grid is something I've been using for years it breaks down and just leans against a wall when not in use, good luck.
  36. 2 points
    I was just out looking at this unit. It's Big. I think it's about 4 feet tall, and 4x5 feet width, and length. The fan motor is a 1-1/2hp Baldor. Change of plan on the wiring. I can buy 100 amp aluminum service entrance underground wire for about the same thing as no. 6 UF, so will put another 100 amp subpanel next to it, and use the breaker to it as the nearby cutoff. Then I can pull other stuff out of this box, if I need to. There was a power pole here already, about 100 feet from the building, with a 200 amp service on it, that only feeds a 100 amp subpanel to that building. Right now, the plan is to build a small deck for it, and let it blow right into the building about 5 feet high. That will keep it from taking wall space inside. I'll run a return duct up high. That'll make it a little trouble to change filters, but it won't be used That much anyway, and will be right beside where I store all the ladders anyway. The building is 24x40, with 12' walls, but the roof has a strange gambrel framing, under the gable framing that lets me raise a full sized dump truck bed inside-not sure of the height of the high part. I had quit doing fiberglass boat work, when a tornado destroyed my shop for that in 1988. I never wanted to do fiberglass work again, without a really strong air conditioner. Cool it down to 65, and you have all the time in the world. Then raise it to normal, and let it kick.
  37. 2 points
    Welcome! Ultimately they do the same thing with the biggest difference being on a track its pretty hard (almost impossible) to veer off the track with a guide you just have to keep it tight to the guide. If I were doing a whole kitchen I would seriously consider getting a track saw. FWIW in my opinion you should not be breaking down sheet goods on a contractor saw but that's just me. I've seen some pretty sketch examples out on YouTube that make me cringe LOL
  38. 2 points
    They still sell corded drills Sorry Ronn I couldn't help myself LOL
  39. 2 points
    Found one that might be just right. It has 20" depth of cut, and doesn't cost anything like as much as the all hydraulic top end models from other companies. https://www.hud-son.com/product/oscar-52-portable-sawmill/ edited to add: With power feed, the largest motor, a box of blades, two extra 7' sections of track, delivered, the price is 27k. I'm going to call this week, and see what size the tracks are, and if they will sell it without the track system. I can get 40' lengths of steel delivered here, and could weld up a track in place. Long lengths would save the cost of buying lumber to build the roof over it, and I have the perfect space for it, building off the side of a 40' long building.
  40. 2 points
    5 or 6 meals, and it's worth every minute!
  41. 2 points
    Tom, getting a smaller mill and using a chainsaw mill to half and quarter logs might be a way to go. You have the equipment to move the cants. To add to this discussion about mills, and I understand this isn't helping Tom make a decision, if I was looking for a mill as a hobbyist, a chainsaw mill is the one to get. It's more versatile and this is the key for me. It's all I've ever needed as I mill for myself and to feed my hobby. It's by far the cheapest option, my first mill with a used power head was well under $1000. Nothing beats the portability, no need for skid loader or tractor. Even if can pick up the logs you still need a big trailer or a dump truck to move them. All of those items are costly unless you have them for other purposes or have a friend that has them. Most chainsaw mills can cut wider logs than hobby mills. My mill cuts about 34" wide. I've actually quartersawn with my chainsaw mill. It's extra work but it can be done. Knowing how to sharpen a chain correctly allows you to mill faster than most realize. In a morning I can typically mill 4-5 logs 7-8ft long. Storage of this mill is easy, I keep my saws and mills in my shop under a table and on the wall. Maintenance is easy too, I usually try to end the day by putting canned gas in the saw for the last tankful. Now I understand it's hard smelly work using a chainsaw mill, and there is more waste. I can't minimize the work part of it, but milling at 9/4 and resawing in the shop as needed minimizes the waste quite a bit. I'll take my pickup truck and my chainsaws any day. Drive to the tree, drop it and leave with the lumber. These 3 piles were all milled in one winter season over a series of weekends. Didn't need a gym to workout in that winter, this activity was more than enough;
  42. 2 points
    Just unloaded it. I know it's a poor picture, but I realized, while I was on the tractor, if I didn't take a picture while I thought about it, I'd forget to take one. I need to run a 60 amp circuit for it. I have a 100 amp subpanel on that building, but will run a separate circuit from the main panel on a pole a hundred feet away. That way, I can run the AC if I'm also running a welder. The guy may have gotten it for nothing, from a building being demolished, but I didn't try to talk him down on price. I was glad to get it for $500. I slid it out of the back of his trailer, lowering it onto a 4x6 on the ground. Then hooked it up like this, lifted it, he pulled the trailer out from under it, and I lowered it onto another 4x. We'll worry about installing it later. The supply, and return outlets are about 28" square.
  43. 2 points
    Wish I still had photos, but the first house I ever bought had been in the process of being remodeled by a young couple, when, on Christmas Eve he was hit head on coming home from working on the house by a drunk driver and killed. Eventually his wife contracted with a 19 year old college student (brilliant - I wound up working with him) who was working to put himself through school. It was a 1914 Sears Craftsman home, all wood frame with a very high pitched roof. The kid added a stairwell, opened up the attic space and finished it out on all vertical and pitched surfaces by ripping 2x12 southern yellow pine into ¼" thick strips and nailing it horizontally to the studs and rafters. Added a couple of dormers and a bathroom and, of course, a ceiling fan. Even hung a porch swing and added a closet. The effect was so cool, like walking into a cozy cabin, and very cheap compared to other materials, labor notwithstanding. Spent many, many hours up there listening to tunes in an altered state.
  44. 2 points
    I recall seeing a research artical on this a few years ago. Nice to see it made it to commercial production. Let the transparent end grain cutting board craze commence!
  45. 2 points
    Keep dust collection in mind if you consider a textured surface. Even with taped and painted drywall, I have to sweep down the walls after dusty operations. I can't imagine ever getting all the dust off of T1-11.
  46. 2 points
    I am getting a headache just reading along.
  47. 2 points
    What do you mean about the underside of the legs? Condition of the finish, or something with the structure? The refinish process depends on what results you desire. If you want it to look new, then sanding to bare wood is the place to start. But if you want to keep the patina of age, I would first clean it with Murphy's Oil soap and evaluate. Might need little else. If it needs more, light sanding with 220 or greater grit can slowly remove the outer layers, so you can choose how far to go.
  48. 2 points
    Your forth pic would drive me crazy. I’d rather look up at the sun for 3 hours.
  49. 2 points
    T1-11 siding, stain it, paint it, just poly. I don't think there is a wrong or right way to go. https://thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/tool-wall-garage-door-cover-new-fans-dc-upgrades-shop-update-617/ What ever you do trim it out. My shop has plywood and the edges are exposed and it really doesn't look nice. it's not an inviting space, though that's also not my intention. Some day I'd like to make it a nice inviting space but i have the rest of my life to accomplish that. Right now I want to build furniture.
  50. 2 points
    These 2 seem to contradict to me. If this was me I'd probably bust out the HVLP and spray it with something. That said spray can lacquer is a 2nd option to that. Otherwise I'd stick with a wiping poly / danish oil of some sort. The wiping finishes won't do much for sealing the piece like you mentioned. That said none of the other finishes will seal the wood to the point that they stop moving either. The best thing you can do with finishing is NOT #4. That's a surefire way to stay frustrated for ever. Practice is huge for finishing. I don't think i ever started to figure it out until i just did a lot of tests to see what works and what doesn't work.