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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/20/19 in Posts

  1. 6 points
    The molds with the Plumbers epoxy putty came out pretty good. The reason you see the plastic wrap in a mass around it on the old sash, was so I could take those gloves off, and knead it into good contact with my fingers, before it set up. More tuning on the molding plane today, since I now have a good pattern from the mold. Used a couple of round molding planes, and a sharp chisel. More grinding on the iron, sharpened it, and ran a test piece. A couple of small tweaks on the iron, and we'll be ready to run the profile. I thought I got lucky on this first go. We stopped here for the day, at lunch time. I can see where they liked this European Beech for molding planes. I've never worked any wood that would be better suited, or works as easily, and still seems plenty durable. We'll make multiple setups on the table saw to take some of the bulk away first, and this molding plane will just finish up the profiles. We have air conditioning in this old house that I use, but I left the table saw work for another day. Will be cutting grass until dark tonight, starting after the Sun goes down some. More another day on this.
  2. 5 points
    I have a few living room tables to make. Most of them are going to be my typical style that runs with the theme of the room but there is going to be one oddball that will be fun to make and i want to try something new. The first table on the list is the easiest. I just need to copy an end table i made a few years back. The main goal was to use up some reclaimed cherry from a bedroom door someone gave me. It was a solid cherry door that they cut some pieces off of so it was no longer usable as a door. Not bad for a reclamied wood project eh? First step was to make the MDF fence for my miter gauge that i've been meaning to make for a while now. After that was done it was as simple as cutting parts to get kinda close to the same size as the other table. I used the domino for the joinery. and also to attach the side slats on. It's the same techniquie I did for the last one. Used the drum sander to sand the slats to fit perfectly in a 6mm mortise. I used the table saw to establish the shoulder on 2 sides and cut the rest back until they fit. Next was to get everything finish prepped. #4 to the rescue! Marc mad a post on social media about rounding corners with a sander. I've never had that problem with a handplane and it's a ton faster to get perfect finish ready. I don't sand much any more after my smoother because it honestly makes the surface look worse. After finish prep it was a pretty painless assembly. Then it was on to making the top. The previous table has an ash top that came from scraps from a build i did a LONG time ago. Luckily i always planned on making 2 and kept the scraps. I ran it through the drum sander after it was glued up to even everything out. Because the grain is kinda crazy and i get a lot of tear out on this wood I took off the drum sander grit marks with a card scraper. Took me maybe 10 min to go from 80 grit to finish ready. Total time was about 10 hours. Just need to apply finish.
  3. 4 points
    Starting to pick up some speed on this project. Glued up the seat frames and cleaned up some templates. Here are the seat templates, you see the frame and the template for the 1/2" plywood that will turn into the cushion. There is about an 1/8th" gap all the way around the seat cushion template. In theory that space will be taken up by the leather covering. The cushion will simply fit in via friction; The seat frame glued up, culls were cut out in one area to achieve a better clamping direction of pressure. The excess on the inside of the frame will receive a rabbet up to the pattern line and the remaining lip will support the cushion. Here's a close up of the back joint in the seat frame. Two stacked 6mm dominos are the support for this joint. Both angles were cut at 42 degrees to match the same 42 degree angle the side and backrest were cut at. Pleased with the joint; The front joint makes up for the combined 42 degree cuts in the back. The side is cut at 6 degrees to match a square front rail, stacked 6mm dominos here also; Here's what's on tap next; Cut off excess on the outside of the seat frame via the band saw. Pattern route the outside of the seat. Rabbet the inside of the seat. Fit the seat frame to the sides of the chair and attach using 8mm dominos. Cut out and fit the plywood cushion base and upholster the seat. Glue up chair. Continue to shape, sand and personalize the look of the chair. Thanks for looking
  4. 2 points
    But is she easy? I mean is it easy, is it easy?
  5. 2 points
    The change is so slow and minuscule that i doubt you'll notice it. It's not like 19 years 355 days you'll be ok with the color but at 20 years your going to say "nope too light time to go". But no it doesn't really bother me. Most of what i make is cherry so it's only going to get better looking as it ages. Walnut gets a lot of hype and for good reason it's a beautiful wood and is wonderful to work but i think the fact that it ages lighter is one of the very few drawbacks one other being the price with the final one being that it tends to have more knots than cherry. The other thing is i tend to celebrate that wood changes color instead of dread it. I love natural processes and think that if this is how nature designed it, i'm happy to be along for the ride.
  6. 2 points
    So glad to hear of your recovery. Not many things in life are as scary as hearing, "You have cancer." How great that you were able to take the course with Chuck. I have little doubt that doing so helped your recovery as much as anything else you did. When I heard those words I immediately checked off the first thing on my bucket list - get a dog. She got her own cancer diagnosis last January, but now has the all clear. We celebrated her 12th birthday July 4th! Keep challenging yourself.
  7. 2 points
    I have the inside finished out and a coat of Osmo buffed on to it. Still to go is removing the tenon and shaping the base.You might notice the cracks filled in on the sides. Some were there before turning, one nasty one appeared between sanding the outside and turning the inside. Had to go back and fill that then scrape the glue ridges down with a card scraper the hit it again with 320 grit.
  8. 2 points
    THANK YOU to everyone who responded. Ultimately, I was able to achieve the angle I needed to get the job done. And I am happy with it. A big THANK YOU to TOM KING with the drill block idea. As all of you (experienced) wood workers know, jig blocks provide angles needed w/out problem. While I knew jig blocks work, I was unsure (do to inexperience) if the bit would bite into the jig, and in turn, mess up my angle. Miraculously, the SPADE drill bit did not compromise the block jig hole! By using two wood clamps (those Craftsmen wood clamps are truly amazing BTW) I was able to clamp the jig tightly to the post. And with a little ingenuity, I was able to align& find the center of the jig's diameter to the center where the hole needed to be bored. I drew a center line on the block's angle. Keeping the drill bit true, I was able to "eyeball" the bit vs. center line. Before, once again, I was afraid of moving away from center line. Ultimately, I need to trust my abilities more often. Once again, thank you everyone here! Job accomplished.
  9. 2 points
    And his website is worth the time to read!
  10. 1 point
    I seem to recall that @phinds said he sands the end grain up to 600 grit to get those micro-photographs.
  11. 1 point
    Hey, don't knock it till you've tried it, right? But you go first.
  12. 1 point
    Great idea if you need to store them horizontally. I store mine vertically on screws.
  13. 1 point
    Unlike your lamb and tuna, huh?
  14. 1 point
    Bankstick, I think the saw may have been made in 1995 (I am pretty sure it was in the mid 90s, and the first two digits of the serial number are "95", so maybe?). wtnhighlander, hah! The label may be a bit of an exaggeration. That's "max developed" HP all right. It plugs into a regular 120V outlet, so it's not quite the 3HP a 240V motor would be.
  15. 1 point
    Last week I got to fulfill something on my bucket list. I was able to spend a week taking a class with Chuck Bender working on a Massachusetts serpentine chest. Last August I was diagnosed with prostate cancer, and when the shock wore off, the only thing that I could think that I would like to do would be to take a woodworking class with a professional. Thankfully surgery went well, and after 2 check ups since, no more cancer. While I was home recuperating I stumbled upon Chucks blog and saw that he had moved back to Jim Thorpe Pa. and was offering classes. The minute I saw the picture of the chest I knew I wanted to take the class. Had to borrow from my 401k to swing it but having just hearing a doctor tell me I had cancer I figured I can't take it with me. Chuck is one of the nicest people I have met. Very patient teacher, great sense of humor. And oh, an amazingly talented woodworker. We weren't able to finish the chest in the 5 days and Chuck graciously offer for us to come back on a weekend in November so that he could help us finish. Thank goodness because I definitely don't have the skills yet to finish the chest on my own. Just kinda wanted to share as I felt like this was a big step forward in woodworking for me and this was the first forum. I ever participated in.
  16. 1 point
    Hum i don't think that you mentioned that FreeCAD was free....
  17. 1 point
    I think the biggest change on that saw is the HP label!
  18. 1 point
    @Chestnut and @Llama have it right. And I woukd encourage you to at least give FreeCAD a try, it does all of that and is truly free to use. No 'trial period', no 'Educational license', no fees. I know I'm starting to sound like a sales rep, but frankly, I'm just really impressed with the program. Did I mention, it's free?
  19. 1 point
    I'm glad you're recovering. As for getting checked, My doctor is a PITA he wants to know everything about my body, but passes on getting his kidney stones taken care of.
  20. 1 point
    If you’ve never used a band saw, I’d buy coffee for an experienced hand at the community center. I’d not suggest first cuts on project material.
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    I suspect it's not worth as much as you might think. Sure if you look at retail prices it might be high... but there's a whole lot of steps to go through before you get to retail. I wouldn't do anything with it unless you're looking at tearing the entire barn down.
  23. 1 point
    Coop, I filled that longhorn with turquoise to make it stand out after it was finished. It's now grazing on a door front to the left of the kitchen sink! It is a slow-growing tree, even with all the water you get in Houston. I came across a guy out this way that has about twenty 8/4 x 12" - 20" x 72" slabs in his barn. I'm gonna take some off his hands once the snakes head inside for the winter. I'd give you his contact info, but I don't even remember where he is.
  24. 1 point
    In July, I posted a router-based method I used to remove the waste from hand cut hand-blind sockets (link). This involved orientating the boards vertically and routing into the end grain. This necessitated a rather clumsy piece of work-holding - which, as I explained at the time, was difficult to avoid as the end grain was not square to the sides, as is usual with drawer front. The bow fronted drawers created ends which were angled.With the usual square drawer fronts, both Bill and Roger on the forum preferred to place their boards flat on the bench and rest the router on the edge. Roger's photos ...However, this method leaves is too much waste remaining at the sides of the socket - as this is angled and the router bit is vertical - which means that there is more work needed to clear ...Bill's objection - that holding the work piece vertically looked too clumsy for easy work - continued to ring in my head. The horizontal method certainly had the advantage of being more stable. So, now that my then-current project, the Harlequin Table, is complete, between pieces I take some time to solve these problems. Which I have, and hopefully in a way that others will find helpful.Just as an aside, my preference is hand tool work, and generally if the wood is willing this is my go-to. The method here is not to replace all hand work, but to make the process easier in particular circumstances. Some of the timbers I work, especially for cases and drawer fronts, are extremely hard, and it is not viable to chop them out, particularly when there are several to do. It is not simply that this is time consuming - after all, this is just my hobby - but that it is hard on the chisels. I use machines to compliment hand tools. There is a time and place for everything.Let's take it from the beginning:Step 1: saw the pins ...Step 2: deepen the kerfs with (in my case) a kerfing chisel (see my website for more info) ...Now we come to the new jig. I must tell you that this did my head in for a long time. As with everything, there is a simple solution, and in the end it could not have been simpler!The need is (1) quick and easy set up, (2) accurate routing leaving minimal waste, and (3) visibility and dust control (bloody machines!).The jigThis turned out to be nothing more than a block of wood. This one is 16"/440mm long x 4"/100mm high and 2"/50mm wide.I used MicroJig clamps, which slide along a sliding dovetail. This is not necessary; one can just use a couple of F-clamps. However the MicroJig clamps not only make work holding less finicky, but they extend the length of the board one can hold with this particular jig to 500mm. That is easily enough for most case widths.To use, place face down on a flat surface and clamp the drawer front close to centre ...Up end the combination, and place the end of the drawer front into your vise. This could be a face vise or, as here, a Moxon vise. Note that the image is taken from the rear of the vise ...This is what you will see when standing in front of the jig/vise ...Let's talk about the router.This is a Makita RT0700C trim router. Fantastic little router: 1 hp, variable speed, soft start. Together with a Mirka 27mm antistatic dust hose, the dust collection is amazing! The photo shown is after use, and there is no dust to be found (I very much doubt that a small plunge router could remain this clean). That also means that visibility is good, even though it does not have a built-in light. There are other excellent trim routers around for much the same price. This is the one I use.The baseThe base is the other half of the jig. This made from 6mm perspex. This is not the strongest, but does the job. I plan to build another out of polycarbonite (Lexan), which is much tougher.There is just the single handle as the left hand will grip the dust outlet.Below is the rear of the base. Note the adjustable fence/depth stop ...This is the underside ...Plans for anyone looking to make their own ...Setting upStep 1: set the depth of cut - I scribed marks on the fence for two drawer side thickness I use. Mostly I use 6mm (or 1/4"). The other is 10mm, which is used here. I shall make another, deeper fence, so that I can add a few other thicknesses, such as 19mm for case sides.Step 2: set the cut to the boundary line - this is done as close as possible. In the end I want to leave about 1mm to clear with a chisel (this is such an important line that I am not willing to take a risk here). If you move the bit side-to-side, the scratch pattern will show where it is cutting ...The resultThe router bit is 5/32" carbide. It is very controllable, and this makes it possible to freehand close to the side kerfs. The fence/depth stop prevents over-cutting the boundary line. In 15 seconds, this is the result ...Turn the board around to chisel out the waste ..Order of waste removalFirst lever away the sides. The waste here is paper thin and breaks away ...Secondly, place a wide chisel in the scribed boundary line, and chop straight down ...Finally, use a fishtail chisel into the corners to remove this ...A note: removing the waste this cleanly and easily was facilitated by using the kerfing chisel to ensure that there was a release cut at the sides of the socket.Regards from PerthDerek
  25. 1 point
    Got some work in on this project yesterday before the heat became too much. I initially wanted to get the seat frames glued up. But after reviewing the project on Marc's site I realized there were a few things to get done with on the chair sides. I also was very anxious to do some shaping of the sides and see what the chair would look like with my modifications. So I turned on some Simon and Garfunkel to get into the Mid-Modern groove and hoped I could find my inner Maloof. First order of business was cutting the legs to length. The project, if followed, gives you a seat height of about 17.5". To me that is a dining room chair height, so I dropped it down 1/2". To get the measurements of the front leg you measure from the leg/side joint; For the back leg you measure from the very back end of the side piece. But my alterations changed the shape so the measurement would not be accurate anymore! Fortunately I had the foresight to make a second template at the regular dimensions. That came to the rescue; This shows the difference from the original at the point I need to measure the back leg length; That distance was 1"; So now I just added an inch to the leg measurement; Use a straight edge to draw your cut lines and off to the bandsaw; Then I used that side to mark and cut the other 3 sides; The plan calls for tapering the outside of the legs down to 1.25" in the front and 1" in the rear. The taper starts from where the leg joins the side. Jory used a portable planer and belt sander to get this taper. I was able to cut most of the waste off on the bandsaw, then used the RAS. Here's the cut line on the front leg; And back leg; After that Jory rounds over the edges of the side pieces with a .25" roundover bit. Well my adversion to routers (only use when necessary because of the mess) meant I opted to use rasps. This allowed me to personalize the roundovers. First I wanted a more delicate foot, Jory's was too boxy for me. I made some quick patterns and drew them on the bottom of the feet; Next it was the rasp and sander with an interface pad that gave me a nice shape to the feet; My roundover was more severe at the bottom of the leg and gradually was reduced as you went up the leg. Then I did some heavy roundovers on the outer side of leg/side interface. These I really like; So this gives me a softer look and I'm liking that. Here's a few picks of the back and sides together to see how the new look is shaping up; I like it so far. Finally, I have all the pieces for the seat frame cut to dimension and all the correct angles cut. Just need to domino and glue at this point. I'm finally moving forward with this project.
  26. 1 point
    Don't know if you saw, but he has some more info at his website: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/KerfChisel.html
  27. 1 point
    In the tent with ammonia for about 6 hours and the resultsvery pleased with the results, turned a nice dark khaki color, the test piece in the middle is the garnet shellac I mixed with one coat of satin ARSthey sure make a nice pair I think, I can enjoy putting finish on now, fuming, mixing my own shellac were both new to me and something I will do again as I love the look, thanks to @pkinneb and @K Cooper for the help and advice, the next pictures will be the completed lamps with the glass installed, Thanks to everyone for following along on this long ride
  28. 1 point
    These are what we're replacing. The original sash have 5/8" wide muntins, and one of the reasons for the importance of this house is the transition in architectural details from the early 19th Century to the mid 19th Century. This is one of the last things we're changing that was done to this house in the 1980's. Two windows had been replaced on the back of the house. The sash have large, over inch and a quarter wide, ugly muntins in the replacement sash.
  29. 1 point
    Tiger maple does not look good painted!
  30. 1 point
    Beautiful work i also like the touch of sapwood in the bottom. That must be cow pee walnut the color looks awesome. Hope the flavor doesn't come through .