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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/13/19 in Posts

  1. 10 points
    I am starting a project that I have been thinking about for years and for different reasons have been putting of. My Dad served in WWII in the Navy and my Father in law was a career Navy man and veteran of WWII, Korea And Viet Nam. I have both of there flags and have wanted to build cases for them both but really wanted to do something a different from the normal looking cases. I have spent a lot of time thinking about this and worrying that I would finish them and then come up with a better idea... time wasted sort of. Then this last November my youngest sister lost her husband in a car accident. He also spent four years in the Navy and then almost 40 more working as a government employee with the Navy in weapons development and that is all he could tell us. All three of them were true God and Country men. When my sister asked me to make a case for his flag I figured it was time to get of my duff and do all three at once. I have come up with some design ideas and made a couple of proto types out of poplar to kind of work out the details and to see if what was in my head would actually look good and work. All three will be the same and made out of Sapele. I went to the lumber yard today and got this really nice of 8/4, 10 inches by 12 feet piece. Did my rough layout and then broke it down using my jigsaw. Then over to the band saw to rip it to rough width and then resew it to rough thickness. After that I sticker it all and I am going t let it set for a few days to see if it wants to move in any way. I honestly don't think it will, while I was breaking it down to this point I didn't get the feeling I was releasing and tension. But you never know.
  2. 8 points
    I restored this Stanley 112 Scraper from what was called a "basket case" It was just hidden under surface rust and crud. I love these scrapers, as well tuned they are great at giving an alternative to sandpaper on figured wood. If anyone is interested in seeing the others, I'll post them too. I've been doing this for 25 years and as I just got back into woodworking after a long break; I have been getting planes and so forth to restore.
  3. 7 points
    I have had this small cart that I built for my first lunchbox planer. Then I got the Dewalt 735 and modified the cart to make it work for the new jointer, then I move the jointer and had to make some modifications to make it work in the new location. Needless to say it was becoming a real Frankenstein of a cart and it was small and just a bit top heavy. The other thing that was creeping into my shop was a handful of Festool Systainers. So this last Saturday I decided to remedy both problems with one project. One sheet of pre-finished plywood and six sets of drawer glides later I had this. I tried everything out with the end of my scraps from my dining table build from last year. So at the end of the day I had this. Then this afternoon with some plywood scraps I made this little rack for my sanding discs. I still have to get some finish on it but I used up what little I had on the trim of the planer cabinet. I hung it on the side of the cabinet that hold the drum sander and all my other sanding supplies. I used a french cleat to hang it.
  4. 7 points
    I'm going to call this one done. I've mounted most of the the tools that are going to live in this thing. I still have plenty of room for growth, and the front of the outer doors are still very rough. The plan is to carve some panels for those, but given that I've never done a lot of carving, I should learn to to do that first! I've been watching some of Mary May's videos, so over the next few months I'll get to it. Anyway here it is:
  5. 7 points
    I have had these sanding blocks for about six months and I have had time to use them on a number of different projects. With ROS sanders and such now a days you don't need sanding blocks as much as in the past but when the occasion arises I am happy I have these. They hold a 1/4 sheet of sanding paper and a nice feature of this particular block is that it will hold multiple pieces, so you can cut the sheet up into fourths stake them up and clamp them all in the block at the same time. When the sand paper is worn you just tear it off and continue on with your work. They come in four colors which makes it possible to use a different color for each grit. The pad is firm so you can work close to the edge of things with out rounding the corners. I find the grip to have a nice feel to it and I think any size hand would find it comfortable. I got these at Tools for Working Wood for $21.95 each. I know you can get them at amazon and other places but I don't know if they give you the opportunity to select different colors or if you are stuck with the luck of the draw. Preppin Weapon Sanding Blocks
  6. 6 points
    Recently we bought some outdoor furniture and as a result now have cushions that need a place to be stored. I thought about the needs for a while and came up with a plan to make some storage cabinets out of redwood so they can go outside if i want them to or if they look good enough be inside. I ended up liking them and because they ended up heavier than I expected i doubt we'll be moving them in and out. The sides are pseudo frame and panel. Basically i made a frame and then to make the panels i glued slats on the backside of the frame. The boards that make the panel are not glued together but instead are a V groove shiplap. The way i glued them on with the shiplap will allow for wood movement and the V groove was added for some visual interest. I was worried about them being to plain and boring. They still are pretty plain and boring but it's not so bad. This was my first time installing a mortise butt hinge. I bought some stainless steel ones off of amazon that were marketed as marine hinges. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P7QDTSF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I figured why not the price isn't bad and they can't be that bad. After getting them i was impressed. They aren't quite to the quality that bruso has but they have very little slop and are nice and smooth. I checked with a magnet to make sure that they were stainless steel and sure enough they weren't magnetic so success! Here are some additional pictures. I made a pair of them to be placed on either side of our siding glass door that goes strait to the deck. All of this is in the background of the pictures. The Finnish i used was Outdoor Oil from General finishes. I don't really recommend it. I like the finish from The real Milk Paint Company called outdoor defense better. It's a tung oil finish that has some other goodies. Outdoor oil cures far faster though at 36 ish hours compared to 7 days. When i finished the project i emptied my DC bin. I got excited to do something hit the on button to my horror i forgot to put the dust try under the filter and the bin under the cyclone. The mess was aweful.
  7. 6 points
    This puppy is done! Lots of mistakes but I'm happier with this than anything else I've ever made. For me it was a skill building project and it succeeded in that respect. You can really see the trim tearout and sanding scuffing from trying to fix it up here.
  8. 6 points
    This stuff showed up at my house yesterday afternoon, don't know why, it just did. I am going to keep it though.
  9. 5 points
    I was out of commission for a week+ due to medical issues. In fact I'm still not supposed to be on my feet til Monday-ish but it was 70 degrees out and I was about to go nuts sitting on the couch. So I started my door. Rails and stiles panel
  10. 4 points
    So it took me a couple of months to actually get around to doing this, but I did it. Sheesh! Finding shop time these days is tricky. The burnisher technique worked really well. Did not close up the gap completely but it looks a LOT better. Thanks for all the tips guys.
  11. 4 points
    I made this from cherry a couple of years ago for my office. I used 1/4” bead board for the back and painted it what I called Amish green for a lack of better description. Sorry I don’t have a better view of the color of the back.
  12. 4 points
    We left off with the drawer dividers a dry fit in the case ... And then this was pulled apart and the case glued up. After a clean up, the ends were looking a little tidier ... Now we've been through this together with the Jarrah coffee table, but for those who want to know how ... The ends are marked (with a washer) .. The aim is the remove the waste progressively to the lines ... This is quick to do with a low angle jack ... .. and finish with a block plane ... Now finish with sandpaper - 80/120/240 grit ... The completed case ... I spent a few hours today turning a few legs. Rather than show the prototypes, I am hoping that I may have enough time to complete them tomorrow - I have the afternoon off! - and then I will post more photos. Regards from Perth Derek
  13. 4 points
    To remind me those need sharpening...
  14. 4 points
    Third video (of 4) is up! Tool pull out and corner door.
  15. 4 points
    All that time keeping the shop clean with the help of a good DC shot to hell in an instant.
  16. 4 points
    This a nice miter station. I've had a few miter stations over the years and I hate to break it to you, but that chip is the least of your worries. You might want to just take a hammer to it now and get past any future emotional anguish caused by dings. LOL.
  17. 4 points
    I’m not the youngest child in this group and certainly don’t profess to be in the upper 50% of the smartest but, I’ve noticed a trend. At first there were 6 volt tools, then 8v and now, and I didn’t know it until Ross mentioned it, 80v. How long before someone realizes that there is already a 120v available and you don’t even need a battery?
  18. 3 points
    Works good Coop, a little soft. I just had to include the picture because I like it so much, and it holds a LOT of stogies
  19. 3 points
    I've seen some gorgeous live edge slab furniture (think Nakashima et al) & I used to love the look. But then it just got to be this crazy thing where every woodworker & wannabe woodworker felt the need to make one (or many). There is still some great stuff being made, but so much of it is crap & ugly & it's just soured me on the genre. I include river tables in that group.
  20. 3 points
    That's next. When we switch, those who's plates have even numbers will change side one day, & those with odd numbers will change the next. You know, to phase it in
  21. 3 points
    If you buy it right after milling, you may be able to use good drying practices to keep it (fairly) stable and flat, but it does take time. It will almost certainly still need some flattening once it is dry. All of the twisted and cupped ones you are seeing are due to people turning the slabs into furniture before they are dried. Air drying isn’t bad, some people just aren’t patient enough to wait 1-2 years to use their cool new slab. Would hate to have your cool new live edge slab table be out of fashion by the time you make it!
  22. 3 points
    So I finally had some time in the shop again today (my one Father's Day request ). I had been waffling on how I want to do the back, which made me waffle on cutting the rabbets, which also made me waffle on cutting the dado for the horizontal drawer divider. Now I want waffles.... I picked up some cherry veneer and a piece of 3/8 BB ply, so I may try my hand at veneer on this. Otherwise I can plane down some cherry boards to the same thickness and go solid. I had been trying to figure out how I would do a french cleat with something like shiplap for the back. I didn't really want to glue up a big panel for the back, which pushed me in the direction of veneered ply. Any thoughts? Rabbets done. I did screw up a couple of the corners. I was sure to make stopped rabbets on the top/bottom so they didn't show through, but I forgot to consider that they need to extend the dovetail baseline by exactly the width of the rabbet in order to make a nice corner. A couple went too far. At least this won't be seen in normal use. Corners still need to be squared up with a chisel. Horizontal drawer divider in place. There's a slight gap on one end, but hopefully it will close up a bit with clamping. Next step will be the vertical drawer divider and then shelf pin holes for the top shelves.
  23. 3 points
    I work from each side towards the centre Working across the ends will lead to spelching. Regards from Perth Derek
  24. 3 points
    I started as a cabinet maker at a mid level company about two months ago. Before that, I had been trying to wrap my head around an assembly jig for cabinets. The previous job was high end very custom stuff. This job has a lot of standards, so was easy to come up with this work station.The main ideas of the workstation is to assemble cabinets on their sides, with parts within reach on the main staging area. Building them on the main staging area keeps lifting to a minimum. With a parts cart, parts are sorted by categories and accessible. Here's a video of the action: https://youtu.be/aTZRB6FSYLo
  25. 3 points
    I decided to take another look at the router plane I've got, before picking up the new tool (tempting as it would be). It's a Millers Falls #67, and the issue I've always had with it is the blade wouldn't stay tightly in place. On top of that, I only ever had the 1/2" spear point blade. Upon looking through the house, I realized that I had already picked up a 1/4" router plane blade from Lee Valley a couple of years ago and misplaced it. I was able to correct the issue with the blade tightness and get it working, after quickly stropping the new blade. It worked really well, so there goes my excuse to get a new tool. In case anyone else has the same issue, the problem I had with the router plane is that the blade clamp could be tightened, but as soon as it was used it came loose again. This resulted in me gouging the work piece the few times I tried it, and putting it in the back of a cabinet. What I realized is that the thumbscrew that holds the blade tight is going into a V shaped notch, but there was no taper on the end of the screw. This meant that it was usually only wedged against a single thread when tightened, and any shift of the components knocked it loose. To fix this, I filed a 45 degree chamfer on the end of the screw so it matched up with the surface it tightens against. It's not perfect, so I still have to tighten it a bit more than I'd like, but it now holds. It gives a much larger bearing surface.
  26. 3 points
    I consider a tape to be just good enough for house framing. When building furniture, I use a tape ONLY to cut rough dimensions. A machinist's rule is always used where accuracy is needed. And the guideline of always using the SAME rule or tape throughout the project minimizes accumulation of errors.
  27. 3 points
    Had to replace my hard drive which put me way behind on updating this project. I'll get to it soon. In the meantime - I'm really happy that I talked myself into the 16" jointer over the 12". Pretty much at capacity! And the surface finish is really nice - no tearout (cutters are still on the original edge after 1 1/2 years of use) and lots of chatoyance! Love this machine!
  28. 2 points
    But you do want to keep the dust out of the air. Seal it next time you get bored.
  29. 2 points
    That explains those bumps that pop up when I'm working with red oak.
  30. 2 points
    Maybe I should start a site “ I Buy Ugly Starrett’s” and flip them.
  31. 2 points
    Dave, when I get time I want to show you some of the curly white oak lumber, I have cut, cutting cross tie logs. No, Coop it’s not for sale!
  32. 2 points
    Well, at least with a cordless saw you can't put chain oil in the fuel tank. (Not that I know anyone who's ever done something that boneheaded.)
  33. 2 points
    I've been dealing with metric for decades when it come to speed, weight, highway distances and temperature, but in the shop it's always been imperial. For the last month or so I've been using metric exclusively & it is like my brain has been let out of jail. I spend less time doing math & more time making sawdust.
  34. 2 points
    I highlight flaws if i show a way to solve the problem. Between us on here is different than the non-woodworking types. I don't talk about flaws with them any more. I got sick of getting that blank stare and the comment "This is far better than i could have ever done". Boy golly that door panel is purdy!!!!!!!
  35. 2 points
    Call Titebond's customer service. There is a phone number on the bottle. They are very helpful.
  36. 2 points
    That's a huge gap & ai can't imagine how that got past QC. I would pack up the whole thing & return it.
  37. 2 points
    That's the great thing about woodworking, you can build a custom piece like for a unique purpose. Perfect for the location you put it at and perfect for the specialized purpose. You could have never bought a piece that could do what you wanted, would fit that corner so well, or looks so nice.
  38. 2 points
    I have a set also and love 'em! They're flat and easy to change paper. Such a huge improvement over the old rubber block pads with the 3 spikes to hold the paper.
  39. 2 points
    (That picture I will never forget) To learn about handplanes check out the book by Chris Schwarz (but first check my spelling).
  40. 2 points
    @Mark J, I have test pieces that were treated almost 2 years ago, and left without protective finish. The color is a little more brown now, but still dark and even.
  41. 2 points
    I have the 3 1/2 hp Porter Cable (motor only) in my table. Bosch Colt trim router but one you are probably interested in in a comparison is the Bosch 1617 which I have liked for the most part and I really can't complain to much about it because I didn't pay for it. The one thing that was a draw back and got me to looking else were was that the switch isn't on the handle and even though it has the slow start feature when you start it moves just enough to frustrate you. I was looking at Bosch's other plunge router but there was a lot of negative reviews concerning the plunge action. The one thing that I was concerned about with the 1400 is the ergonomics of the handles. It is setup basically for right handed use concerning the power switch and I am a lefty. Usually things like that don't bother me but when I was researching the purchase, looking at the photos just struck me wrong. If you turn the router around so the power switch is in your left hand then the plunge turret is on the back side of the router. But I finally decided to go ahead with the purchase because I figured if it didn't work out it would be no problem getting a decent resale price for it. Using it just enough to test it yesterday and I don't think it's going to be a problem. It does seem to be noticeably quieter then my other routers and the micro adjust on the edge guide is way nicer then the Bosch. Well it wasn't too bad because it was planned for. I have a small business that I run from home since I retired, it only requires about 250 hours of my time per year and all the net income is disposable.
  42. 2 points
    Agreed with @wtnhighlander above. I use a folding rule for a lot of the measurements that are over 2' (size of my largest machinist rule) up to 4-5'. For me the tape measure is an approximate measurement that I'd expect to be within 1/8" or so, but I also only really use it at the rough layout stage. That being said, usually only a few things in a project are critical dimensions, and everything else can be relative to the other parts.
  43. 2 points
    OK, I promised a demo of the color change. First, the raw cherry, with white paper for reference: Now for the after photo:
  44. 2 points
    I actually like the built in chain tensioner on the 180 (32cc saw). I wouldn't want it on a larger saw, but that little chain strecthes out so much, when starting using a new one, that it often needs tightening between fill-ups, and the built in system lets me do it without walking back to where I left the oil/gas/file/etc. You do have to crank on the flippy handle, but I don't ever remember it slipping. I keep a 24" bar on the 036 (60cc), but it's just to keep from having to bend over as much. I'd never cut a 24" tree with it. It would do it, but would be kind of slow, and even though it's a pro saw, I don't like to work them hard. The 036 is 20 years old, and the hot rod 066 (90cc) is older than that. They both start, and run like new ones. The 90cc saw is a good size for cutting 2' stuff. The little 180 gets used the most, for grab and go small stuff, and trimming. It's just a homeowner grade saw, whereas the other two are pro saws. Pro saws are built to last running all day, every day, and are easy to work on. The homeowner saws are mostly just use till they quit, and toss. They will do a lot of work though, but I wouldn't expect one to last 20 years.
  45. 1 point
    If someone wants to borrow a chainsaw, I go in that shop, and come out with the 066 with 42" bar running, and revving. I say, "This one is running good." It's ported, and has muffler mods, so it's really loud. Cut off, with the end of the bar on the deck, the end of the handle is about to the top of my shoulder. So far, not one person has not backed up, thrown their hands up in the air, with wide eyes, and always left without a chainsaw.
  46. 1 point
    I have been wanting t build a new stand for the planer for years, but yes, adding two new sustainers to the floor space finally kicked me into gear on the stand. I am glad now that I didn't build the stand for the planer a couple of years ago, when I first started thinking about it because now I would be building it again to accommodate the Festool stash.
  47. 1 point
    I once almost got tripped up by a farmer that stored diesel fuel in a red can because it's what he had on hand.... when i heckled him about it i believe the response was something "Well you appear to know the difference in smell so why does it matter?"
  48. 1 point
    I have small veratis I got it for cleaning up small hinge mortises. It works great just don’t to much material or the blade twist. The depth stop is sold separately just a reminder(I didn’t read carefully enough)
  49. 1 point
    Slowly sanding and finishing my way through this. Other than that, all I have left is to route grooves for the t-tracks and slap on some pulls. I got one completed (only went with 2 coats of finish, I'm just too impatient to do more.) This gap displeases me. It wasn't nearly this bad before finish. The two drawers rub. So I will have to address that issue before I'm truly done.
  50. 1 point
    That's a pretty common complaint with the HH cutters. The cure seems to be to do it under surgically clean conditions & being meticulous about cleaning each mating surface before reinstalling the cutter.