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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/09/19 in Posts

  1. 9 points
    I bought this #3 a long time ago put it in a drawer and never did anything with it. Well honestly at the time I bought 2 #3s (i still have the other one), and i took some parts and switched them around to make one more "authentic". This casting came with the stamp "DAMAGED" on it. I found that very interesting. I did some research before i bought it and from the research it sounds like it was a factory second that was sold to a Stanley employee. The handles that came on the casting were some bright orange home made looking things. I swapped them with the rosewood handles from the 2nd #3 I bought. I like to keep the work i do to the planes to a minimum. I don't really like to do the evaporust method as I find that it leaves an odd looking surface. So I cleaned up the sides and sole with some sand paper on my out feed table. It made a big mess. Though it was easy to clean up with some sandpaper on a sander. After the sand paper i further worked the surface with green scotchbrite, finishing with some polishing compound. I did a bit of work to the mating surface of the frog. It was VERY rough. Then i bought a new Hock o1 blade and got it tuned up. It takes a very nice shaving and the size is small but works for me. I'm excited to put it to use on a project. Figured I'd line up all my vintage planes on the aircraft carrier for a picture
  2. 7 points
    I sure hope, the Houston Boy comes in with his big check book or two Houston Hats. Curly White Oak.
  3. 6 points
    I absolutely love making small boxes and it had been a while since I last made one. As you guys know, boxes are awesome because you get to practice joinery and do experiments on something small scale so if you screw up a part you will only be wasting a small piece instead of something large like the entire leg of a trestle table. I'm getting close to being done on what I have titled The Up-Side Down Right-Side Up Placebo Box. (The "Up-Side Down Right-Side Up" part I will explain later.) The box will be used to house some essential oils which I like to tease my wife and call them placebo oils. It is beyond the scope of this journal to get into whether essential oils actually work because of the placebo effect, or if they work because of like....science or whatever. Many of them do seem to work for me, though there is a really good chance they are only working because of the placebo effect, but as long as they work I don't care why they are working. I'm not done with this box yet but here are a couple of pictures to start off with of the dry assembly with not handle on the lid. Gives you a sense of the over-all look. I was shooting for a Japanese-ish style look. I think I pulled that off. This design started off with bad drawings. I used the technique that Mike Pekovich wrote about in his book that many of you have recommended. (I recommend it also.) The one where you make lots of small drawings and do them fast with very little detail. That way you can crank out lots of different designs in a small amount of time. Doing this I quickly identified what I did and did not like. Once I had a design concept figured out I measured some placebo bottles to figure out the overall inside dimensions. This concludes the planning part of this project, I'm more of a fly by the seat of your pants kind of guy. And with that, it was time to make saw dust. Here is the board I am making this box out of. This is teak that is approximately 3/4" thick. I did not buy this board because as most of you folks know teak prices are kind of on the high side. I got this board from a local guitar maker. He had come to me because he needed a wrap done on a guitar for some event (for my day job I own a sign company so wrapping vehicles and other things is a big part of what we do) and he needed it in a hurry. Once we were done with the wrap he asked what he owed me, well if you know any guitar makers then you know all of them have a collection wood that they "will make something out of some day", so I told him that he had to pay me in wood. He gave me this piece of teak (which has some kind of oil finish on it in the picture) a smaller highly figured piece of teak and some canary wood. It pays to be friends with guitar makers. I started by just milling up the box sides. I did all this by hand except I used my planer for thicknessing. To get the ends true for the dovetails I needed to use a shooting board. Which was a problem because I don't have a shooting board. I have been meaning to make one for like a year or so, I just had not gotten around to doing it. No time like the present I guess. It went pretty well too. I was very surprised that I was able to get it square of the very first try. Have a look! There is zero light leaking through. Feels good man. Dovetail time. I'm a dirty cheater and am using the Katz-Moses jig. This is only the second time attempting dovetails and I just don't have the hours to dedicate to properly learning hand cut dovetails. So stop judging me jerks! The above is my dovetail gear. What you don't see is any chisels. That is because I don't have dovetail chisels, I know you don't NEED dovetail chisels, but I wanted some, so I made some. I posted this in another thread but for those of you who did not see that post I'm going to post it here as well. I had just read The Joiner and the Cabinet Maker (which I can't recommend enough by the way) and in that book Christopher Schwarz explains how to make dovetail chisels. According to Schwarz you can just get some cheap chisels and file the side bevels to a point. Schwarz also says that you can use a grinder or a belt sander instead of a file as long as you don't let the metal get so hot it looses it's temper. So, equipped with some extremely high quality Harbor Freight chisels I got to grinding with a belt sander. The chisel on the left is the before and the two on the right are the after. Took me maybe 10 minutes tops. Honing and sharpening took longer. They are not pretty, not by a long shot. But they work like a charm! It was hot that day by the way. I had a swamp cooler running in my garage that is why the humidity is so high. Yes, here in Arizona, 30% humidity is high. The coping saw (or maybe that is a fret saw, I always get the two confused) was from Harbor Freight as well. I assumed that it would be worthless and frustrating, but the thing cut like a champ. This teak is extremely easy to work this so I don't know how the saw would have performed in something less forgiving like oak, but I am happy with how well it did. Dry fit of the sides. I did not plan to make these proud dovetails, I wanted the dovetails to be just a tiny bit proud so that I could just plane them flush. I added 1/16" which was way too much. But I love it. So I'm keeping it. With the sides of the box done it's time to make the bottom and the top. These are pretty simple in that both of them are just rectangles with a bevel, but I was having trouble wrapping my head around how to do the bevel. Then I remembered something I heard in a Youtube video at some point. I can't remember who said it (I think it was either the Highland Woodworker or maybe William Ng) but it has stuck with me for years. I'm not going to quote it but it was something to the effect of: If you break woodworking down to it's simplest form, woodworking is just marking a line, and cutting to the line. No matter if you are using a chisel or a table saw or sand paper or a plane, you are just marking a line, and cutting to the line. So that's what I did. I marked the line.... And started cutting. At first I was using just a block plane but that was pretty slow so I switched to the scrub plane and things started really moving fast. I would get close with the scrub plane.... Then finished off with the block plane. Not only did this work very well, it was pretty fun too. It went surprisingly fast. The scrub plane even worked really well on the end grain. Sides, top and bottom are done, all that is left is the internals and the lid handle. I used some of my kids construction paper to mock up some lid handles and finally landed on this one: This is where the "Up-Side Down Right-Side Up" part of the name come in. At some point while figuring out the lid hand I had set the box down up-side down. I stared at this up-side down box for a really really long time. I was stuck, I had no idea which look I preferred. I like both looks so much. In the end I decided to keep this thing the original way I had designed it. I figured that since this was such a simple build it would be no problem for me to build an up-side down version in the future. Dowels were used to attache the lid. We are pretty much caught up to the present. All that's left is to put finish on. My finishing schedule is two coats of boiled linseed oil followed by Danish Oil and finished off with paste wax. I have used this finish before and it is by far my favorite. The only down side is that it takes a really long time. Even in the desert heat I have to wait multiple days between coats. After the finish is all cured and done I'll get some glamour photos and report back. Thanks for sticking with me.
  4. 5 points
    Chris, your responses here on the Forum this past week or so leave a lot to be desired. They really offer nothing to the conversation and are pretty rude to the person that started the thead. I had sent you a PM when I deleted you post in the CNC section but you never read it. So this time I am going to be more public and tell you that this forum has a no jerk policy and if you can follow that you time here will probably be short lived. You comment above does not help her at all so you do you say something like this? Especially to a new member, you don't make her feel welcome with a comment like this one.
  5. 5 points
    Jim, good work on the HF chisels. I was inspired to do this about 10 years ago when I recognised that the Blue Spruce chisels were made this way. I have had a BS set for about 15 years, for paring dovetails, and they were among a very few who produced chisels with minimal lands. The chisels I chose to grind were vintage Stanley #750s (purchased individually over some years, mostly without handles). Unlike the LN chisels they were modelled after, the Stanleys had rather chunky sides, and were useless for dovetailing. I also was not a fan of the stubby Stanley 750 handles, and wanted something longer. This is what the Stanley now look like. Incidentally, the 1/8" chisel started out as a 1/4", as did the 3/16" chisel - these are two sizes I use a lot with dovetails. I did write an article on a jig I made to do this: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Soyouwanttomakeadovetailchisel.html Later, I simply managed it freehand. The smaller chisel sizes are a little tricky Regards from Perth Derek
  6. 5 points
    I don't spend a lot of time on bigger more complicated projects without drawings, templates or a lot of beer.If its complicated and time consuming a little more time for templates, drawing will save time later....
  7. 5 points
    Gary welcome to the forum! No disrespect but I for one hope this slap craze ends soon and we can get back to regular milled lumber for wood working projects.
  8. 4 points
    So i still have that idea itching in the back of my mind for the last table. I really want to make it delicate looking and nail the process. So I ran another test and think i got every thing figured out. First the test so you can see what I didn't like but also what I liked. The center "post" was just WAY to beefy. Further on I went too thin and have since decided the perfect thickness is 3/8". This also showed me that trying to perfectly measure and mark out the kerf width of the band saw blade is an exercise in futility. I determined that it's MUCH easier to make the cuts and measure as i go along. The problem i had with this test is the main bending pieces are not the same thickness and as a result bend slightly different. It's not that noticeable in the picture but the tops toe in towards the center a bit. Starting out my final test piece is going to mimic the size the real piece will be. I calculated that I'll need a 1_1/2" wide piece, 14_1/2" long, and preferably 1/2" thick. The piece below is 1_3/8" and that leaves the center piece a bit thin to my liking. I'm showing this to illustrate how LITTLE wood this takes. Which is sort of dumbfounding to me. I marked center and offset the center 1/8". I marked up 1" from each end and and that represents the line to stop cutting. This is important because uneven stopping points will result in a poor look. I was only marking one side of the board. I used the marks to set the fence and then flip the board over to cut the opposite side. This kept things symetrical and worked a bit faster. It's also critical to work from the center out. Working from the out side towards the center means that you have kerf cuts in your board pressing the board against the fence will close the kerf cuts causing a taper and a cut that isn't parallel. I used white lines to illustrate where the 2 cuts will be. You make the first cut and then flip the board side to side so the same end is getting cut. Or at least for my design i want it this way. Playing with the orientation of the cuts can give different designs and different effects. If you try this experiment it's kind of fun to try out. Below you can see my first 2 cuts. Now we will focus on the end closes to us in the picture above. I measured over from the outside edge of the kerf the thickness i want my bent "slats" to be. For this i chose 1/8". I've found thicker than this doesn't bend very nicely and thinner is too fragile (in my very limited testing). The key for the next cut is to make sure to align the OUTSIDE of the band saw blade with your mark. If you center or use the inside of the blade it will remove material from your slat making it too thin. (I guess it doesn't matter what side of the line you choose as long as you always choose the same side of the line from here on out). The white line above is a bit thick but it shows the idea. Here I'm taking the line as the right side of the white line was my keep side (I used a pencil line to set the fence and added the white line latter for illustration). Make the first cut flip side to side so the end you are first cutting stays the same. Stop at your marked stop line. For the next cuts, which happen to be my final cuts, I measured again from the outside edge of the kerf cut on the opposite end of the board. I measured over 1/8" and extended the line to the end. I then used that line to set my band saw fence. I really should have set my fence to the low position. Next time I'll remember that, well probably not. As you can see the wood is loosing a lot of it's stability accross the face. This is exactly what we want but also illustrates how important it is to work from the inside out. After the cuts are done you have a small piece that looks like some one really messed up on. I'm working on the rail design. Right now I'm leaning to cutting a groove in the top of the bottom rail and the bottom of the top rail. I'll set the side in the groove and glue in spaces that will hold the position of the side in the design that i choose. There is a LOT of flexibility with this. Right now I'm going for something symmetrical but will experiment more in the future. With spaces installed. The small spacers are 1" and the larger spacers are 2 of the smaller spacers so 2". When it comes to actually placing the side the top spacers will need to be a hair longer than 1" as the top has 4 kerf cuts and the bottom has 2 so the top will need to make up that additional material lost. I then had the idea to cut the center piece out because i thought it might look better. Ignore the rough bottom, If i did this method I'd make it just a thin kerf cut instead of a wide one. I don't think this will be my end product. If i widen the center divider by 1/8" it will help separate the 2 sides and will look like 2 arches. Ideally if i was doing a wider table I'd have 3 arches as i prefer sets of 3 but this table is going to be far to narrow to pull that off. What do you think? Pointer, if your band saw has a brake stop the blade before pulling the piece out of the incomplete cut. The sides of the band saw blade can cut the wood a little bit leaving a rougher side and a more jagged looking slat. If you don't have a brake this process might take longer as I advise to let the blade stop. So Mel if you read this proof that a band saw brake has value . I was going to post some pointers for making something like this at the end but I'm tired and forgot what I was going to post. Also my fingers are tired.... this was a lot of typing. Also too long to proofread, I'll probably fill in my pointers tomorrow when i proofread.
  9. 4 points
    I made some 3/8 shelves today. 3/8 shelves: Top 5/8 and middle 3/8 for comparison.
  10. 3 points
    OMG!! Is that what this little piece of plywood is for?! The thing was just rattling around in the box my Jet came in. There was nothing in the instructions other than now I see a vague mention of a "dust block". No picture. No description. Nothing in the parts list. I figured it was too odd not to be something, but I thought maybe for checking belt tension. Imagine how my dust collection will improve now with this installed, and if I remember to turn the DC on.
  11. 3 points
    I think these are the last couple additions: a holder for my digital calipers, and a magnetic block to find my 6 inch rulers. The other tools are in the mail, but I think I'll get these holders all finished. I need to get onto a couple of other projects soon.
  12. 3 points
    I finally got around to rerouting my dust pipe for the new bandsaw. Much better collection even though after it was said and done I only trimmed 3 feet from the flex hose. It's a more direct shot between the collector and the saw though. I was pleasantly surprised not to find any dust buildup in the lines when I separated them. Collector is doing its job.
  13. 3 points
    That is a bold man. It's glue that I did not notice before I finished it. You can only see it if your eyes are open though. My blind friend is none the wiser about it.
  14. 3 points
    So @Bmac Sanding went easier than i expected. I have some 3M sand paper the no slip backer kind labeled sand blaster. It's awesome stuff. The backing is sticky when it gets hot. So my hand sanding is usually done with a 1/4 sheet that is folded in half which i then hit with my heat gun and and then press the adhesive together. This makes it a bit more rigid and easier to use as well as makes it 2 sided. Conviently i have an object that needs 2 opposite sides sanded. I just hold it together with one hand and drag the sand paper back and forth inside and it took me 10 min to sand all of the inside like this. I might go and get some 80 grit to see if that makes it any faster.
  15. 3 points
    I’m eeeeasing into it. For the last 31/2 years, I’ve been working 3 days a week. Starting this month, I’ll be working 3 weeks a month, 3 days a week. It’s getting to be a pretty cush job/semi-retirement!
  16. 3 points
    I received mine today and as it was delivered to my office, I had the opportunity to “dust “ the Systainer up a bit so it will look like it’s been in my shop awhile and not a new tool! Really no good reason to that of course.
  17. 3 points
    I'll confess that I didn't read 100% of the posts above but probably enough to get the flow. I built a CNC router about 3 years ago and may have posted the build here (I don't recall, sorry). The main thing I cut with it is Longworth chucks that we sell on Etsy (we've cut almost 200 of them in the last 18 months). But the CNC is just another tool in the shop to me; I turn it on, cut something, turn it off and move on to the next step. What's nice about it is the repeatability and accuracy. If I can cut something on the bandsaw faster than using Fusion 360 for CAD/CAM and then cutting a piece on the CNC then the bandsaw gets used. But if that same part is one that I'll need a dozen more of over the next month then the CNC gets the job - it just depends but in the end it's just another tool in the shop. We don't (yet) have a 3D printer but I have looked at several. A good friend has two 3D printers so I don't need one right now because he'll print anything I need. The acoustic guitar, and related forms/fixtures/jigs I built last year, could have been helped by the CNC but I only used it for a small portion of cutting the bridge. The rest was completely by hand and I do a lot of hand work on a fair number of jobs/projects every week. And actually, the reason I built the CNC is to cut forms, fixtures, jigs, and templates for building acoustic guitars but I have yet to do any of that with the CNC. When I started woodworking about 45 years ago I used a handsaw. When I got a circular saw the handsaw gathered dust unless the circular saw couldn't do the job. When I got a table saw the circular saw got put away. But it is still used to break down Baltic Birch sheets for the Longworth chucks because it's the best tool for that task in our shop (no room to handle a 5x5 sheet on the table saw). Cuts that I would have done on the bandsaw a few years ago might today go to the CNC. They're all just tools and I use what makes sense for the job because I have them and they each handle the job for which they were designed. My $0.02 David
  18. 3 points
    I actually think the BCTW Kerfmaker is a pretty good bargain. By the time I fart around trying to make one myself that will work as well, I will have burned up many times that in my labor.
  19. 2 points
    Hey Drew, that's great. It's a fun project, and I'm pretty happy overall. There were a couple of minor things that I wish I'd known ahead of time. The biggest complaint I had was discovering that my back saws wouldn't fit in the height for the saw till. The Veritas tenon saw is over an inch too big, and another Disston saw was about the same. I also found the gallery was bigger than necessary, so I would have had the left side of the cabinet go down to the shelf above the drawers for the 6 inches or so of the till (dropping two cubbies). Actual hand saws require almost the full height of the cabinet, so I'm OK with putting the one I have in the door. The plane cubbies aren't very deep, so they end up being useless for anything bigger than a #4. As it is, I had to plan what was in the doors so it left a gap where the bottom of the plane castings are. If you wanted to make it more useful, adding 1/2" to 1" to the carcass depth would make a big difference. I'm limited on space since it's over my bench, so I'm happy as is. In the shorter plane till, if you follow the plans it's just barely big enough to squeeze in a #5, but I wanted to plan for possibly having a low angle Jack later. This was an easy fix, just requiring a wider piece of plywood and a shallower angle. I think I ended up at 14 degrees instead of 16. I didn't bother making it full width since I don't have that many planes, but I can later if necessary. Both plane tills hold the planes, but they're not in there all that firmly at that angle. I will be adding some magnets behind the plywood. I'd still build it the same next time. The piano hinges worked fine, but I bought the heaviest ones I could. I wouldn't want anything lighter duty on it. The butt hinges would have worked too, if I'd been willing to spend the extra on them. I ended up deciding the card scraper tray was way overkill for the 7 scrapers I have, which is why they went into a cubby. This depends on your tools. As I said, I'm replacing it with a drawer. With the carcass, I built the carcass, then built the doors. This wasn't a great idea, since I ended up having a discrepancy in size of between 1/32 and 1/16, which I then had to plane and sand away. Clamping the doors to the carcass worked to a point, although one door warped a bit after I put everything up. Hope this helps. Let me know if I can answer anything else.
  20. 2 points
    I finally got a chance to take some glamour shots. What do you think.
  21. 2 points
    And after confirming with the tech that the capacitors are sold individually what arrives? 2 sets of 2 capacitors. I guess I'll be calling Felder on Monday.
  22. 2 points
    You guys in the USA are lucky. Every time I use walnut ( I think this is the 3rd time) I fall in love with it more. It’s pricey in Australia though so I’ve only ever bought a small amount I’m making a few toy planes to give to friends and went for a walnut and a Victorian Ash plane. The Vic ash I’ve got is a common plantation hardwood here and is much lighter in colour than most I’ve seen. The walnut is amazing though. I can’t wait to get some finish on this
  23. 2 points
    In the picture the work is slightly off the bed. That is because I can't hold it down and take a picture at the same time. With modest pressure it stays flat. I have clamped on a piece of cherry. The cherry has a few inches on the end with a square cut acts like a stop. Works well. I have a few means to make jiged square cuts. I like this one best in terms of results. I have a smaller stick I use for shorter lengths. And finally no wood, just the incra. The thickest I can do here is 5/4 dressed with the added jig.
  24. 2 points
    If you don’t have some sort of roller support or better yet a fixed stand that you can put multiple types of tops on, I would stop and make one or run to the store and buy one. This is a reasonably priced Rockwell product I picked up at Lowe’s on sale. The wooden glide bar took just a short time to cobble together and has served its purpose very well. It can act as an out feed catch, a side feed support like what you’re looking for, or a third hand due to the angle and pivot mechanism of the base.
  25. 2 points
    Pine is too wide a field. Some SYP and heart can work well if you can source old stock. The problem is that “pine” is just not specific enough.
  26. 2 points
    I actually found a place within a decent drive from me that gets in demo units from powermatic. Called the guy and he has me on a list when a powermatic table saw comes in. They sell them for almost 50 %. Thinking this may be the way to go.
  27. 2 points
    This is the way I do it also. This video was a very big help to me. The concept for surfacing is simple: Find the high spots and bring them down. In practice this is very hard for a beginner. I am far from a veteran at surfacing by hand but I like to think I have graduated beyond beginner. So I'll add my 2 cents. One thing that helped me a lot was going slow, using a scrub plane, then a #5 and using LOTS of chalk (a fat pencil will also work). Hog off the obvious high spots with the scrub plane. Things like the high sides of a cup (like you mentioned) or maybe even the high corners of a very twisted board, anything that sticks out like a sore thumb. It's easy to go overboard with a scrub plane so take your time. I know Paul Sellers and other people you see are taking shavings very fast, but you're not there yet, slow it down. Once all the obvious high spots are knocked down (notice I said "knocked down" not "flat") you can switch to a #5 (a #4 could work if set for a heavy cut, also a #6 could work here too, I just prefer a #5). Using your strait edge find the high spots. Mark those high spots with chalk (I like to use scribbles). Plane away just the area with chalk on it until most of (if not all) the chalk is done. Should only take a pass or two. Check with the strait edge to see if the high spot is still high. If it is still high, mark it again and plane it again. And then again. And then again. Taking it super slow. This is also how to treat twist. What you are looking for with this step is "very flat", but still a little bit of light leaking under your strait edge, but no spots that are real high or real low. I wish I knew how to define "real high" or "real low" without showing you but I can't. You should know it when you see it though. Then (and only then) is it time to break out the #7. A plane this size is not used for spot fixes. I suppose spot fixes can be done but this plane is not good at it. Now what you want to do is use your strait edge to find any LOW spots. Mark the low spots with your chalk. Time to start making full length passes working from one side of the board to the other with just a bit of overlap. What should be happening is that the chalk is being removed a little by little with each pass as the level of the surface gets worked down to those low spots. Do not be scared to take an aggressive shaving here, unless you are getting tear out of course. Once all the chalk from the low spots are gone stop and check with your strait edge and winding sticks. At this point you should be so damn close, if not perfect. Now you stop. Do not use the #4 to smooth it. Smoothing comes at the end of the project, or at least just before glue up. At this point a nice smooth surface is of no value, the only thing that matters at the beginning of the project is flatness. Hope that helps. Oh, one more thing: I know it's super frustrating (I have for sure been there more than once) but don't get too caught up on that piece of oak that you may be "ruining". Nice pieces of wood come and go, you will see hundreds of fancy boards over the years. Remember it's just a piece of a dead tree. But the skills you are learning will last the rest of your life. You will get so good at this that you can do it in your sleep. There is a day in the future that surfacing a board will take you 5 minutes. You're not there yet, so don't expect to be. You have my permission to go buy yourself another piece of oak. You've earned it.
  28. 2 points
    If it swings down, the barrel of the piano hinge will be underneath. The same would work with a butt hinge. A big strong one. Either should be morticed into the wood. Folding down will also be more convenient.
  29. 2 points
    Flatten the bottom (dead flat!) Use that reference with a marking gauge to scribe a line on the sides. I prefer a wheel style gauge for this. If you can't see the line darken with a mechanical pencil. Chamfer the edges to form a peak on the non flat side. I like a block plane for this. Grab your #5 and remove most of the waste. Then the #7, then smoother. I left out the process on how to get the edges true as you stated thicknessing was your issue. *this is an overview, not a book on how to woodwork. I am sure something has been glossed over but this should fill the gaps.
  30. 2 points
    Don't know, but I thought you had too many clamps.
  31. 2 points
    Huh. I've never seen that before (not that I'm a motor guru, but I've replaced a few capacitors before). Once the tech gets back to me this afternoon I'll ask him about that and get them ordered. Thanks for all the input.
  32. 2 points
    Like Mick, I feel the SS is priced with other saws of that quality and the safety feature is just a bonus. People pay more for other colors of paint that are at this quality tier without the tech. That being said, I bought a used Craftsman/Emerson contractor saw for $80, threw another $200 at it in after-market stuff (PALs, Fence, belt/pulleys) and it served me well for years. Once my ability improved and the saw became the limiting factor, I upgraded. I see this as a reasonable path for beginners if the used market is robust in their area. I would not buy a poor second hand saw as all that will do is frustrate you. My Craftsman/Orion 22124 hybrid did all I ever needed. I upgraded to the 3HP Saw Stop as a windfall made that possible with minimal financial impact. If not for that I might still be using the hybrid. While the step up to the 3HP cab saw is an eye-opening experience for the home hobbyist, it is not a requirement. Good luck, ask lots of questions, filter the replies based on what you need and have fun.
  33. 2 points
    IMO, if you can afford the SawStop, go for it. From all reports they are good quality saws, on par with Powermatic, plus they have the safety feature. I can't speak from experience, as they are outside my current hobby budget, and I'm comfortable enough without the blade brake. I'm sure you'll get good opinions from other members who DO own one.
  34. 2 points
    I think my measurement area is just about complete, aside from adding a lip for pencils. I'm especially happy with the holder for the folding ruler, which has is very securely but lets you slip in a finger in the side to get it. I still also need to hang my bevel gauge, but somehow it got misplaced in all this. I did also order a couple more items that are in the mail, like a new 12" combo square. You can see in the right side my solution for the scrapers. I don't have nearly the number Matt does, so a block in a single cubby takes care of it. This way you also don't need to remove the block unless you want to, since the scrapers easily slide out the front. Just a couple more items and then it'll be time to pull it all out for finish.
  35. 2 points
    Grizz has decent customer service. I bet with a phone call, followed by these pics, they can get you started.
  36. 2 points
    Mines not the fanciest. But works well for me. I can cut 9’ to the left and 20’ to the right.
  37. 2 points
    Hey.. Supposedly you retired 6 months ago? Or was it the 6 months before that?.. Oh hell, I've lost track..
  38. 2 points
    Maybe I'm just ham-handed but, it seems like half the time when I dump the rail connectors out of the little storage tube I drop the wrench. Makita did a good job of providing a storage spot for the blade wrench in the handle of the saw. I'm sure someone thought of this or something like it before but, a piece of tubing and the unused side of that handle-hole make a stash spot for the rail connector wrench. Your mileage may differ but, the tubing I had that fit snugly on the wrench was just a bit small to fit snug in the hole. I just snipped a section out to create a flap to fill the gap. The end of the tube in my hand is out of focus but, you can sort of see the internal shape. This happens to be oxygen hose from the last time someone was in the hospital. Apparently I scrounge all sorts of . . . stuff from wherever I happen to be. It goes in and out without coming loose from the tubing and stays put while I'm working. Now I can setup and tear-down without fumbling the wrench half the time.
  39. 2 points
    You did post, it's been posts like yours on here and Frank Howarth that have turned me from thinking that CNC is complete hog wash to considering it an awesome tool. For items that require precision and accuracy they can't be beat. Kind of deviceive just like the Domino...
  40. 2 points
    You know, MCM is getting long of tooth. Might as well start calling it MCML so folks know which century its from the middle of!
  41. 2 points
    Those are some nice looking dovetails sir!! Love the box too
  42. 2 points
    I think the center divider will look a lot better with drawers in place. The shelves are a bit different as they won't have something like a drawer front right next to them.
  43. 1 point
    Brian, I'm thinking of starting my cabinet soon. What advice do you have to someone that is thinking of making one of these? I thought you mentioned that there was a dimension that you'd have increased knowing what you know now. I'm looking at some awesome QS ash on my rack that I'll never use for anything around the house. I'm thinking of cutting it up for the case and the internal dividers.
  44. 1 point
    Just making an assumption; it seems the gentleman was trying to widen his profit margin through misrepresentation of what would be delivered and what was actually delivered. My condolences to the OP. I think we all have experiences in life somewhere back down the road that taught us a painful but lasting lesson.
  45. 1 point
    I really like that saw till design Brian. If your thinking about new stuff, you might be able to find a little space for keys to a new vehicle, they shouldn't take up that much space.
  46. 1 point
    I really haven't had an issue with the Ridgid. In my mind, it's about the minimum saw you would want to have for doing any amount of serious woodworking. Not everyone likes the fence, although I personally have found it to be fine as long as you check it for square every once in a while. I like the Ridgid for a few reasons: 1. Price - it's hard to find much else in this range with similar features, other than the Delta (although it seems like they're in the process of raising the price) 2. Mobility and footprint - for me this was key. The saw is super easy to move around, and it doesn't take up that much more space than a jobsite saw. I work in a pretty small space, so I constantly need to shuffle my tools to work. 3. Space for router table - it's really easy to add a router table to this saw, and even comes with screws and instructions. Some people have used the Bosch table top router table for this, as apparently it basically just drops in. 4. Riving knife - to me this is more important than the SawStop technology, and is the reason I didn't go with a used saw (although there was a used Powermatic contractor at the time, so I thought about it). The riving knife helps with preventing kickback on the saw, and was only common as of about 10 years ago. I personally wouldn't even look at a saw without it. At the end of the day, I'm happy with having bought it. Would I rather have a cabinet saw? Sure, if I had the room for it, but this one fits my needs better.
  47. 1 point
    You could also rewire the paddle switch. Those can be handy for things like homemade router tables or other tool stands/enclosures. Jobsite saws get a lot of flak but if you have reasonable expectations for them, they can definitely serve you well.
  48. 1 point
    I think a 3d printer has a lot of capabilities for shop stuff, though I'm not sure that i like leaning heavily on stolen ideas. It to a point is defeating the point of a patent. As pointed out previously some of the specialized tools do represent a bargain especially when you consider the intellectual property that the tool represents. There are things that i want to make that currently i can't think of a way to make them with standard wood working tools. 3 dimensional molds come to mind for bent lamination. I could certainly eventually get there with my current tools but there are some complex shapes that would be much faster done with a digital method. I do agree that 3D printing has a HUGE advantage of it being an additive process instead of a subtraction process. This allows for more efficient use of materials. In a space where some hardwoods are extremely expensive utilizing a CNC may cost more in material lost to waste than anything else. Also a good point is that you get to set it and come back when it's done. Your time isn't hands on for the duration of the manufacturing process. Though again it shifts time from shop work to screen work.... nothing wrong with that. I completely agree I have the KM-2 and it's awesome in use. Have i used it a ton, no, but when i need an exact width dado the thing is fast and fool proof. Also unnecessary i can often nail a 1 off dado pretty fast but batching is where it shines.
  49. 1 point
    3/8 looks very nice.
  50. 1 point
    Follow his company name and you will discover that he is Polish, living in the UK, having started a contracting company in 2004. I wish I could speak and write Polish as well as he does English. I think that he meant well, but was very frustrated, and the agent who worked with him knew enough to import machines but not service them or diagnose any faults. Regards from Perth Derek