Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/17/19 in all areas

  1. 12 points
    Just completed this table/bookcase. Made from white oak. Was my first adventure in through tenons. Think they turned out pretty good. Finish was a challenge, tried some tinted shellac, and then bailed out on that. Went with just a oil based stain then some wipe on poly. This will go to the entry way at church to hold bulletins, hand outs and some books.
  2. 10 points
    Some final pictures. The finish I used on these is a coat of garnet shellac that I wiped on, then three light coats of General Finishes High Performance Satin. These are not something that gets "used or handled" so I think light coats will be plenty. It was more a process of getting all the raised grain and dust nips taken care or I probably could have stopped at two coats. The one on the left is my dad's, the one in the back ground and missing the flag is for my sister's husband, I will be taking it a little road trip to deliver it along with an album of the build. And the one on the right is my father in law's. When I did the engraving I did it in the same format and wording that is on each of their military head stones. A few pictures of some of the details.
  3. 10 points
    next was over to the mortise machine to put in 2 1/4 X 1/4 by 5/8” deep mortise and one in the center 1/4” by 1/2” long in the center, over to the router to remove the material in the center (underneath) at 1/2” depth, several passes and depth adjustments got this done, this will allow light to shine thru and also serve as a vent for the heat
  4. 9 points
    Had some short pieces of butternut and needed a piece for the church auction, box joints, butternut and walnut, Spanish Cedar interior with a lift out tray, Vertex 90 degree stop hinges, 3 coats ARS satin, thanks for looking and comments and questions are welcome as usual
  5. 9 points
    My apologies, I haven't been keeping up on this. I am in the finishing stage but according to the journal I am still building so let me get you caught up a little. After I took the bases out of the clamps, I cleaned up all the box joints with a chisel and then sanded them to 150. After that, I cut the top and bottom of the base to final size and added a chamfer all the way around, top and bottom. Next I wanted to glue a block at each end of the top and bottom piece so that when I do the glue up they self center instead slipping around while I get the clamps on. I got the top or bottom piece lined up and then put a little clamp pressure on so that things didn't move if bumped while I glued the blocks in place with CA glue. Final dry fit of the project. And then in the clamps with glue. I needed to come up with a way to have the base high enough so I could get clamps on when gluing the case to the base. I clamped two lengths of 2X4 to the end of my bench. I set the base on this. The other thing I was concerned about was glue squeeze out because with the chamfered edge of the case it could be a chore to clean up. So I laid down a border of blue tape. Then after getting the glue spread I pulled up the tape. I did the same on the bottom of the case. I used a couple of double squares I had set to the distances I wanted the case to be from the side and front edges of the base to line things up quickly and then get the clamps on. All in all it went pretty well.
  6. 9 points
    FINAL PICTURES We are done building the side table. Here are pictures (taken with my iPhone6). The case is Hard Maple from the USA. The drawer fronts are Black Walnut, figured Hard Maple, and pink Jarrah (hence the name, Harlequin). The drawer sides are quartersawn Tasmanian Oak, and the drawer bottoms/slips were made from Tasmanian Blue Gum. Finish was, initially, two coats of dewaxed UBeaut Hard White Shellac (the very faint amber adds a little warmth), followed by three coats of General Finishes water-based poly (this remains clear - does not yellow the maple - and appears to have some UV protection. It is hard wearing, which is necessary for a side table). The build features mitred, rounded dovetails and bow front and back. Eight drawers featuring compound dovetailing to match the bow front. Drawers are traditional half-blind dovetails at the front and through dovetails at the rear, with drawer bottoms into slips. About 2 months to build, mainly on weekends. Here is the rear of the table (which will be seen through the windows, which run floor-to-ceiling along the family room ... The pulls were shaped from what-I-believe-to-be-some-type-of Ebony ... The obligatory dovetails ... Do you think that anyone will notice that the drawer bottoms run sequentially? And this one is for Bill, who was concerned that the chamfers at the end of the drawers (to ease entry into the case) might impair their extension ... A last look ... Thursday morning I haul the table to the Perth Wood Show for the annual furniture competition. Wish me luck. Regards from Perth Derek
  7. 9 points
    Out of the clamps, block plane, ROS to get the angle on the edge of the shade, these get set aside until the bases are done
  8. 8 points
    Got it finished and in place. I used flood cwf-uv finish because i got it free and why not. Starting to get it filled up.
  9. 8 points
    I'm a big fan of mesquite. Also, the fruit woods, apple, pear, persimmon.
  10. 8 points
    This has been an interesting project, learning a lot. Today I put the top coat of epoxy on the board. Started by sanding and cleaning everything up from the glassing procedure (applying the fiberglass). Tape off the rails and let the tape drape so excess epoxy doesn't run over to the underside and make drip lines. By draping the tape the excess epoxy simply drips onto the floor, glad I put the paper down because I'm making a mess. Here's the board taped up; On the back of the board I made a small dam out of the tape, trying to build up a little bit of a harder edge here with the epoxy; Next it's brushing on the epoxy. I'm doing the bottom of the board in these pics, I did the top this morning before heading to church. The top did not turn out as smooth as I wanted, I had some bubbles in the mix and they popped after I left it, leaving some small pot marks. This side I waited and did a final once over after most of the bubbles came to the surface. Learning as I go. I'll likely have to put another coat on the top. After the coats dry I need to final sand and clean up, then I might be done! Thanks for looking.
  11. 8 points
    Welcome to my world this is the Bday card I got from my wife
  12. 8 points
    Spent a fair amount of time pushing through this project, but I will run out of time to get it finished by Fri. Still, here's my progress. Began shaping the rails. When you shape your rails you can chose a harder or softer rail. Basically a soft rail has an even curve from the top of the board to the bottom. A harder curve has more weight and a slight edge on the underside, it's curved evenly to this edge. I went with a soft rail. Here you can see the rail at the early stages of shaping, got to this stage with the RAS 115 and some rasps; Alittle more shaping.... And starting to look better.... When you look closely at the next 2 pics you can still see the rail is slightly wavy and not perfectly smooth, this fine tuning will take a while; Here I'm getting ready to attach the tail. The blocks are attached to the tail piece via a long grain glue joint and the blocks fit into the hollow part of the board; Try in goes smoothly; Used a few clamps as cauls and glued on tail; Did the same this for the front piece, same technique and similar result; Had a little time this AM and I couldn't resist, rough shaped the tail; And it's starting to look like a real surf board; A lot of shaping and sanding still left. I also need to make a glassing stand. I plan to do that with 5 gallon buckets, some 2x4s, plywood scrap, rocks and rags. If that doesn't make sense then wait for my next series of photos. I'll likely be away from this project until next week. Thanks for looking.
  13. 7 points
    Black walnut bowl about 7” across from a chunk Ricky sent me. Sanded to 320 and Osmo wiped on and buffed. Still needs the backside done.
  14. 7 points
  15. 7 points
    I normally just do laminated bowls but lately have done some candle holders, both turned and non-turned, and some business card holders. Almost everything is still laminate. Here are some of them:
  16. 7 points
    a little more done today, the angle of the sides at the bottom and top caused the top and bottom to not be flat, the solution I came up with was to use a 3/8” rabbiting bit in the router table and climb cut around the bottom of the base taking small cuts of course, the result is a (tenon ?) on the bottom and I plan on routing a mating groove (mortise ?) in the bottom piece that will fit under the base, I plan on making the very bottom piece bigger by about 2” for stability cut the mortises for the shade support arms and made a test piece, I used the base as a guide to set the correct angle for the support arms the top was such a small difference that I decided to put it on the belt sander with the fence set at the proper angle, worked well, I plan on cutting a 4 inch square piece for the top with a shallow rabbit and screwing it on for removal to access the light fixture
  17. 7 points
    I have my hinges mostly fitted to the cabinet. I think the end result looks pretty good. I went with the continuous hinges, but they were pretty industrial looking when they arrived. They had a very inconsistent surface finish, and were covered in sticky grease. I cleaned them off using denatured alcohol and then used a wire wheel on the bench grinder to even out the finish. I followed up by putting a thin layer of paste wax, and they now have a nice satin finish. I had to mortise the hinges into each side a bit over 1/16 to get the gap down to something reasonable. I'm pretty happy with the results. I clamped the cabinet down to the bench and must have stood there playing with the doors for a solid 5 minutes. One thing I discovered is that my doors are square, but my cabinet will rack a bit with the back off. I'm going to need to install it later today with a square in place, so I can make sure it all lines up. Once I have that figured out I think I'm on to finish sanding and breaking edges, then applying a couple of coats of tried and true on it. I want to match my bench as closely as possible.
  18. 6 points
    not as much time in the shop today as I would have liked, I did get the support arms done and installed then on to the baseroutered a groove for the base to sit in, just a shade wider than the 3/8” (tenon) on the bottom next I wanted to put a cloud lift on the bottom piece, a little thinking and the Forrest dado made short work of that, I’m debating if I want to glue or screw this base piece on or maybe both. the oak I had was not thick enough so I added 1/4” square pads to the corners of the base.
  19. 6 points
    I discovered that one lamp was not standing quite vertical last night, I wasn’t much but after much thought and re- cutting the bottom of the base with the router I fixed it. the rest of the shop time went to fitting the mortises for the support arms and screwing them in temporary, but progress is progress I guess, tomorrow I’ll cut the arms to length and add an outboard vertical support to each arm to center the shade and hold it in place
  20. 6 points
    I normally make laminated bowls and haven't post any here for quite a while. Lately I've made a few candle holders. Here are some of the turned one:
  21. 6 points
    Coop, I'd use a hand plane making sure to work in a manner that minimizes blowout. Usually that means from the sides toward the center. I usually work from all sorts of angles until i find the one that reduces the tear out and blowout. For drawers i clamp 2 boards across my bench and hang the drawer off the side. Edit: To add this is one of the reasons why having your legs flush with the side of your bench is quite helpful. It gave the box 3 points of contact and made everything quite sturdy.
  22. 6 points
    Well this build is a wrap. Only thing left to do is get this in the ocean, and that should happen next week. I'll try to get a few photos of that. I really liked this build, it was a new technique of construction and that is always fun. There was a lot of resawing, a ton of gluing operations, and a lot of shaping. I've never worked with epoxy as a finish before and the glassing of the board totally put me out of my comfort level. So this checked off a lot of boxes and hopefully improved my skills. Finally, I have a super stoked son who can't wait to ride this thing. Here's hoping for some offshore tropical systems to put big waves on the Mid-Atlantic coast! I sanded the last epoxy coat up to the 1500. I did not polish or buff it, but rather left it as a slightly matte surface. Wax will be added to the deck area for traction. The epoxy finish ended up pretty nice, esp since it was my first time. I did have some issues with bubbles, and I think those came from the pumps I used to get the epoxy measured. Would love to hear any tips on how to avoid bubbles in epoxy finishes. Well again, thanks for looking!
  23. 6 points
    A little progress today, final fit of the top and glued it in place, put walnut splines in the corners, a little strength but mostly looks cool, and glued the shades to the skirt. the skirt won’t be cut for the stained glass until I’m closer to the end, bases start tomorrow
  24. 6 points
    I am in the process of completing the Harlequin Table. I will post the finished piece in a couple of days. Here are a few pictures of making the drawer bottoms for the slips, which may interest a few. Bill was not enamoured with the slips as they has this ruddy great groove down one side. That was a too-wide quirk from the beading blade. Not to worry Bill, I cut that section away, leaving just the bead. Here are the slips being glued in ... The drawer slips and bottoms are Tasmanian Blue Gum. The drawer sides are Tasmanian Oak. Both are 1/4" thick. The groove in the slip is 1/8" (3mm). The slip requires a matching 1/8" rebate. This was planed with a skew rebate plane on a sticking board ... Although the plane has a nicker, I always scribe the line as well ... It is worth the effort to set up the rebate plane for a precise cut ... Once the one side is done, slide the tongue into the groove of the slip, and mark off the width of the drawer bottom ... Then saw to width ... Any fine tuning is done with a shoulder plane ... The drawer fronts are all curved, and the drawer bottom must be scribed to match this ... Here is the fit behind the front of the drawer, and the match with the beaded slips ... The rear of the drawer, with the added bearing surface from the slips ... The profile of the drawer sides ... Until the final pics ... Regards from Perth Derek
  25. 5 points
    The owners of the 1850 house, that we put the Cypress Shingle roof on, have had on their to-do list for me to make two pairs of window sash. They are to replace some made in 1982, that don't come close to matching the rest of the originals left in the house. We completely redid all the old ones. For several years, they have asked when I was going to get to it, but other stuff kept coming up. We had taken some of the unused (now that we have new trusses holding the sagging roof back up to a flat plane) brace posts that were in the attic, as part of a poorly designed structure, to get wood out of for the two pairs of sash I need to build. Some of those posts are seen in the first picture. It's all Heart Pine that has been drying in that attic for 169 years. It's not only dry, but Very heavy. I didn't weigh it, but it weighs more than Oak does for pieces the same size. Milling it showed that every piece was also completely stable, and no cut moved the slightest bit. Mike spent his time cleaning them, before I ran them on the jointer to get them ready to go through the table saw for rough sizing. I put an old set of knives in the jointer, because even with Mike's best effort with a wire brush, they had 169 years of dirt on them. I used a set of knives that I had decided to toss anyway, but kept them just for this job. I knew we wouldn't have enough of the Heart Pine, but I had kept some pieces of Heart Cypress from making handrails for this house. I just rough cut the stiles, top and bottom rails, meeting rails, glazing bars, and muntins today. Any sapwood you see on the Cypress parts will be cut off. Everything in the picture is cut oversize. I'll sharpen a new set of knives for that jointer tomorrow, and we'll run them to finish size. Since it's just four of them, I'm going to see how it goes to just run the molding profiles by hand. They're not exactly like any I've seen before, so if we put $1800 in a set of custom router bits, they may never be used again. If I can break even on the cost of the bits, in hand labor, both the owners, and I will be happy. I've made single sash before by hand, but these are large, nine lights, so have a fair number of feet of molding profile, and a lot of tenons to cope. I ended up running a number of extra pieces of the Cypress because I wanted to only use the heart, and cut off any sap wood. We were running close, and the top rails may end up with a small bit of sapwood, but they will be in a protected spot up in the jamb, and the windows will be painted inside, and out with Sherwin-Williams Emerald exterior paint. More pictures, and update the next day we work on them. I'm not sure if that will be tomorrow, or not. They should look just like this one when we get finished. We already have the hand blown cylinder glass cut to the right size 12x14 inch panes.
  26. 5 points
    So I've found my niche. Dice bowls for gamers. Keep your dice contained in style. I've been getting more and more commissions, and I'm not complaining! This weekend I'll be working with some honey locust, paduk and spalted ambrosia maple. Here are some of my latest.
  27. 5 points
    This is not my business, it's my hobby. I'm in my early 50's and do all this work myself. I really look at it as a form of exercise and satisfying my woodworking addiction. I have no desire to do this as a business, but I hope to continue to build for family and friends (3 kids that are between 18-23). My real addiction is probably not knowing when to say enough is enough. So my hoarding is basically the following; self-induced hard labor that keeps me out of trouble, causing me to sweat profusely in the hot/humid August weather, and feeding the woodworking bug. In the end it's probably better than a gym membership!
  28. 5 points
    Been working on this lately. I'm trying to get it done so i can finally consolidate my firewood storage to one spot. Glued the sides together. This guy is nearly 8' long so it was a tricky job. My parallel clamp extenders have been put to use a LOT since i've made them. The center post wasn't supported very well so i ran a brace to the top back rail. I also did a grid system for the bottom with a couple support blocks. I wanted to keep the bottom support quite open so as much air flow can surround the wood as possible. I figure keeping the moisture out will help prevent the storage rack from rotting out. Used my counter sink drill bit i got from rockler to do some free hand pocket holes. I like this bit a lot and do recomend it. It's not the best but it does the trick for me. https://www.rockler.com/8-pro-tapered-countersink-bit I got the doors mounted and found some nice marine hardware that i used for hinges and latches. I'm goign to leave the dog ear on the pickets that overhang the front edge. I set it up and kind of like the look. Unless someone gives me a good reason why this is foolish. I'll post some links to the hardware later. I'm quite impressed with some of the marine hardware that is available on Amazon. Hinges are tight and seem to be well made. You can get them in 316 stainless so it should hold up outdoors for a long time.
  29. 5 points
    Thanks for the tips. I managed to joint one face and then take it to the bandsaw with success. There are a few end cracks that I'll and stabilise with epoxy (or cut off) before turning it. The square was more of a guide to show where I could get my blank from. As the water shows, there's some pretty colours in there. The mallet was the same timber that I turned up a few years ago.
  30. 5 points
    The brain of any pipe organ is called the wind chest and that is the next component on the list. This is the beginning of a "slider chest". Yes, I'm using MDF and masonite. Some of the worst organ builders in the trade make their chests out of such stuff. (Some of the greats use it, too.) As I said above, this is a homely first step to get some techniques down before I make my next instruments with the good quality Baltic Birch. For all that, though, it's stable, smooth, dead flat, readily available, and it takes glue beautifully. And now I remember why I can't stand having MDF in my shop. As I said, learning experiences.
  31. 5 points
    Mmmmmm. I just love the way oil makes the grain pop! 2nd coat of oil on the body.
  32. 5 points
    Just got this today and Used it to square up a piece of stock. It's flawless, as my experience has consistently been with LN products. Right out of the box, the blade is sharp enough for whispey thin shavings, but I will definitely be doing some additional honing and introducing a very slight camber as the straight blade leaves tracks. The blade advance wheel has the least amount of slop of any plane I've ever seen. The chipbreaker is sharper than the blade of some manufactures planes and the overall fit and finish is outstanding. The locking screws for the frog are accessible from behind, which is nice because you don't have to remove the blade and breaker to adjust the frog. LN bills it as the heaviest of their jack planes and they ain't lying. This thing is VERY stout. Personally I find the 5-1/2 jack to be the perfect plane - immediately able to do any task. I used to square up a piece of Maple and it made short work of it. I also used it to shoot the end grain and again it performed very well. My ONLY gripe, and it's a very small one, is that there isn't much space between the blade and handle for the lateral adjustment lever. This is my first BD Lie Nielsen plane, so maybe they're all that way. Hardly a big deal but thought I'd mention it. It's not an inexpensive plane but in my opinion, they back up the larger price tag with quality that's above and beyond. I have a skewed block plane arriving tomorrow. Will post a review of that as well.
  33. 5 points
    Cut a guide block of wood the right angle to hold beside a drill bit. There are many ways to do it very precisely, but that should be good enough for a handrail. I've built many.
  34. 5 points
    There was a time when Yellow Pine was good enough to build cabinets from. These are in the last house that I was able to. It was 1991, and the last such good building supplier/sawmill went out of business the next year. The panels in these doors were built from 1/2" thick boards that came out of their stacks, not flattened, and planed down to size. I doubt many of you have ever worked with any. Back then, it was stable, and no more stress in it than anything else. They air dried it for a year on stickers, and then kiln dried it. These days, they saw it, and kiln dry it that night. The top rails aren't really darker than the rest of it. It's just something funny about the lighting. I know some of you don't like Pine anyway, but it was cheap, and there was always a buyer without having to wait very long for one to come along. We were working on this house today because it had taken a direct hit by a small tornado, and we had some reassembly to do, but that's another story. edited to add: I think the microwave, and range are from 1991 too.
  35. 5 points
    Those were pretty quick. A cove bit down each side of the blank, cut to length, cove the ends and arc the fronts. Short vertical ones for doors. Longer horizontal ones for drawers.
  36. 5 points
    Got some more done on the surfboard, between some short out of town trips and work. Here's where I'm at now; Board is sanded to 220, rails shaped as good as I could shape them; Next it was moving on to the glassing of the board. I'm putting a 6 oz layer of fiberglass on the top and bottom for strength. Opted to do one layer on the top, was planning 2, but for further research says I should be able to get away with one layer since this is a wooden board. Before I started glassing I needed to build glassing and sealcoating stands. Real simple and it's about 40" high; Had to move into my garage for this step and placed paper on the floor for the mess I will create. First step is to lay the fiberglass sheet out and trim to size; Next I mixed the epoxy and poured it down the middle of the board; Then using a rubber squeegee/spreader, I worked the epoxy into the fiberglass cloth and spread it out as evenly as possible. Then I sgueegeed the excess cloth over the rails to the under side. Here's what it looked like the next morning; I sanded off the excess cloth on the underside and added another layer to that side. Sanded it again after both sides were coated and now I'm on to the fin. I glassed this on, first using quick setting epoxy for initial placement then using fiberglass cloth and epoxy for the glassing, The sheets of fiberglass cover the fin and extend down on to the board about 2-3"; I'll trim that up and sand it once it sets, then on to the vent and leash plugs, followed by the final epoxy sealcoat and final sanding. I can see the end in sight! Thanks for looking.
  37. 5 points
    next I put the skirts in the frame clamp to check the fit, looks good to me. The part of the skirt that is not on the same plane as the lamp shade will be hand planed to match the angle of the shade. the plan is to add 2 splines, maybe walnut to the mitered corners of the skirt and after its all glued up cut the skirt in half (horizontal) and add in a band of 1/8” stained glass all around
  38. 5 points
    Beautiful work and good use of the contrasting butternut and walnut. Shows you have a good sense of humidor.
  39. 5 points
    I have a neighbor, bless his heart, a retired single 60 something guy that has way too much time on his hands. A 3 yo $30k bay boat with less than 40 hours, a fortune in black powder guns, the elite in golf clubs and hours and hours of study on all of the above. Unfortunately the guy couldn’t catch the first fish, hit a target at 50 yards or break 100 if his life depended on it. Point is, regardless of you library, if not applied, it does you no good.
  40. 5 points
    I did/have messed up, I’m just not telling anybody
  41. 5 points
    I now have two coats of ARS satin on the door panels and interior of the cabinet. Pic is just after the first coat was applied, but you get the idea.
  42. 5 points
    Got a little more done. The first thing I did was glue the molding on the fronts. It was a bit of a clamp fest to make sure things didn't move or shift. They came out pretty good I ended up with one tiny gap and I am contemplating how I will deal with that. In the mean time I milled up pieces for the base and then took them to the router to do the box joints. Couple of shots on the end pieces. And then the fronts and backs. I can't explain how it happened and obviously it was my fault, hard to blame anyone else when you are working alone, but three of the end pieces ended up thicker then all the other pieces, maybe a 1/64. All three came from the same piece of stock. So to fix it I ran everything through the drum sander for a couple of light passes until everything was the same. The problem was I didn't want to sent the ends through because they were so small and would probably get flipped by the drum so I blue tape and super glued all of the small pieces to a piece of 1/8 ply and sent them through that way. Then I glued them up. And that is were we are at right now.
  43. 5 points
    those cuts are nerve wracking for sure, one slip and you start all over. I could, should make a special sled for those cuts but I don’t make enough of them to make it worth while. anyway, success! next is to rabbit the inside for the glass
  44. 5 points
    I have been working on this while doing some other things but I haven't been getting updates here, so here we go. I used blue tape and super glue to attach some cauls to the sides for clamps during the glue up. As it turned out I attached more cauls then I ended up needing but that was better then trying to add them during the glue up. I used a straw to get the squeeze out from the corners. All clamped up. I used Titebond III for two reasons, to give me extra time if I needed and it dries with a darker color so less chance of glue showing in the box joints. Joints all flushed up and rough sanded. Next I needed to add a molding to the front for the glass. I cut a handful of extra pieces not in the picture and I am glad I did. Before cutting the miters I ran them through the router put a slight chamfer on them. Okay, here is why I was glad I cut extra pieces for the molding. When I glued up the cases they all ended up splayed just a little so my top angle wasn't 90 degrees. This has no visual effect on the project it just made cutting the miters a little challenging. I didn't have an accurate way of checking the angles so at first I was cutting samples with scraps on a hit and miss basis. I thought I had it until I cut the first set of molding. Good thing I had the extra. But instead of pursuing the correct angles in a madding way I ordered the Starrett gauge for finding miter angles. Using the arrow on the left for miter cuts, I had to cut each top angle at 46 instead of 45 degrees. So on my Incra sled I set the main gauge to 45 and then using the left side of the secondary gauge I was able to add an extra degree. If you have to add degrees in numbers that include a half of degree you use the right side of the secondary gauge. Then on the pieces for the angles on the lower part of the case which were to be cut at 67 degrees I added a triangle piece to create 45 degrees and then set the fence to 22 degrees. I could have set the fence alone to 67 degrees but the angle was so steep that my cut would have been taking place about six inches past the back edge of the sled. This was the set up for the 67 degree cuts. A clamping block holding the triangle and then a hold down holding the molding in place keeping the digits out of the way. As I finished each set of molding, I taped the pieces to the case so they didn't get mixed up before the glue up.
  45. 5 points
    Got a few things down on this last night and early this AM before work. I'm pushing to get this finished up by tomorrow night, when we head to the beach for the weekend. If I don't get it done by then I won't have a chance to get it down there for 3 weeks. I added all the side pieces to build up enough bulk for shaping the side rails; Used a circular saw to cut off the ends, and squared them up for addition of the front and back to the board; The tail end; The top or front of the board; Sized a few blocks and glued one of them to my tail piece, still need to attach the second block and glue piece on, but this is how I'll attach the tail; Once I glue on the tail and front piece I need to shape the rails and sand the board. This photo gives you an idea of how I plan to shape the rails, you can see how toward the end the rail is rounded over and blended to the top, the big chuncky strip of wood at the bottom of the photo will be mostly ground away and blended in with the rest of the rail. I have a lot of shaping to do, this is where the Festool RAS 115 with 60 grit will get the job roughed out quickly and my rasps will refine the shape ; Here's a cut off piece so you can really see the construction method. You can notice the side rails are partially hollow and the shaping has begun.
  46. 4 points
    Today, we ran all the parts to their final size, and I spent a while finding the right molding plane. For running parts like this to final size, I finish two sides on the jointer. The glazing bars and muntins have their last two sides finished at the table saw with an old Forrest Mr. Sawdust blade that never gets used for anything but running small parts to final size. Stiles, and rails, being wider than the 5/8" thick muntins, get finished in a planer. For finishing parts on the jointer, I sharpen up a new set of knives. They don't come as sharp as I like, so I hone them on my sharpening stones as sharp as I can get them. It only takes a few minutes with my installation method-maybe 20 seconds per knife once I have the guard off, and tools needed at hand. For planing to finished surface, I keep a set of super sharp knives in my Grizzly 12" planer/molder. It has rubber feed rollers, and will take off the slightest little thickness with sharp knives. I've been meaning to make a video of my jointer knife installation method, but am always thinking about producing work, so haven't slowed up enough to set up the video equipment. We did take some pictures this morning. We organized the parts in different stacks with tags, to simplify not getting them mixed up, and no worry about remembering what is what. I thought I took a picture after we finished sizing, but the only one I have in my phone is after the two sides were finished on the jointer. After installing the sharp knives, only the slightest bit is run off of any side, just to smooth it up. The picture of the piece of Cypress is light reflecting off of it after running it against the grain, on purpose, just to show the quality of surface. Going with the grain leaves it a little slicker. That's just morning light from the North wall window. I'll post the knife setting method in another thread, but here are the pictures.
  47. 4 points
    I would hope not. One could write paragraphs of critique on that piece.
  48. 4 points
    slight delay of game while I re-did the wood on our glider with Cyprus , fought me for 2 days. I did get a dry fit of the bases, the box joints were just too tight so some careful sanding got them real close
  49. 4 points
    dry fit the box joints and they are pretty tight I may need to do some light sanding-fitting to get them all to fit right then I put the pieces thru the taper jig, they will be 4” at the top and 6” at the bottom, my nerves are shot and I have to go bury another friend this afternoon, more tomorrow I hope
  50. 4 points
    I got both sides of the storage rack done. I got all the boards glued and nailed in place with TB III and stainless steel brads. Beings that i want the front angled I need to cut the angle in the ends of the posts. I figured that it would be easier to do this after everything is constructed as I'd be able to cut a line with the track saw. I always forget that the track saw cut depth is 2.75" and not 3.125" either way neither is cutting through the 4x4 in one go. So i grabbed one of those odd toothed plates of steel they used to use hundreds of years ago and finished the cut. Jokes, i use hand saws quite often for random things. They really are a great tool to have in the shop. I cleaned up the cut with my #4 just to make sure the ends was somewhat even. Below is the completed side.