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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/21/19 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    I made this for my niece's new baby boy. Just a small box from Wenge and Oak. I was trying to come up with something a little different for a handle on the lid... his name is Noah.
  2. 5 points
    I should have added in my original post - I have been doing this for a while for new family babies. It comes with a little note saying that this is for storing "firsts" in the baby's life. Hospital bracelet when they come home, lock of hair from first hair cut, candle from first birthday cake, Bandaid from first scraped knee, first report card, AND first BAD report card, key to their first car along with first speeding ticket and so on.
  3. 4 points
    Beautiful, Chet! Love the species combo. I suspect the child will hear enough biblical references in his lifetime to appreciate the subtle personalization your adhered to...
  4. 3 points
    I have a few living room tables to make. Most of them are going to be my typical style that runs with the theme of the room but there is going to be one oddball that will be fun to make and i want to try something new. The first table on the list is the easiest. I just need to copy an end table i made a few years back. The main goal was to use up some reclaimed cherry from a bedroom door someone gave me. It was a solid cherry door that they cut some pieces off of so it was no longer usable as a door. Not bad for a reclamied wood project eh? First step was to make the MDF fence for my miter gauge that i've been meaning to make for a while now. After that was done it was as simple as cutting parts to get kinda close to the same size as the other table. I used the domino for the joinery. and also to attach the side slats on. It's the same techniquie I did for the last one. Used the drum sander to sand the slats to fit perfectly in a 6mm mortise. I used the table saw to establish the shoulder on 2 sides and cut the rest back until they fit. Next was to get everything finish prepped. #4 to the rescue! Marc mad a post on social media about rounding corners with a sander. I've never had that problem with a handplane and it's a ton faster to get perfect finish ready. I don't sand much any more after my smoother because it honestly makes the surface look worse. After finish prep it was a pretty painless assembly. Then it was on to making the top. The previous table has an ash top that came from scraps from a build i did a LONG time ago. Luckily i always planned on making 2 and kept the scraps. I ran it through the drum sander after it was glued up to even everything out. Because the grain is kinda crazy and i get a lot of tear out on this wood I took off the drum sander grit marks with a card scraper. Took me maybe 10 min to go from 80 grit to finish ready. Total time was about 10 hours. Just need to apply finish.
  5. 3 points
    If I had to rely on any of these to build a project, I might as well just go inside and watch soap operas. Give me a Big Chief Tablet and a #2 pencil any day
  6. 3 points
    Just look in the mirror Coop, there’s a great woodworker looking back at you
  7. 2 points
    You might conseder showing that article to you client. If your wife is the client I take no responsibility.
  8. 2 points
    Correct blade depends on the job being done. The 'maximum' blade will depend on the saw. If the wheel is 1/2" wide, I suspect the saw should support a blade at least 3/8" wide. Straight cuts need a wide, stiff blade, curves like a narrow blade. Theoretically, the maximum blade width is limited by how much tension the saw frame can manage, not necessarily the wheel width. The crown of the (properly alagned) wheel keeps it from running off.
  9. 2 points
    Excellent call on the handle!
  10. 2 points
    I think furring strips will work fine. Finding straight ones may be a chore. I didn’t notice from the video link, what they were attached to but assumed it was something other than poster board? 1/4” ply with the strips will give it plenty of rigidity.
  11. 2 points
    $150.00 at the church auction Sunday. Not too bad I think for a silent auction
  12. 1 point
    When I make a new jig it becomes the brightest star in my "shop" so it gets hanged in place of one of the former brightest stars, which in turn gets dumped into a storage room, never to be found again.
  13. 1 point
    More and more I have come to rely on rare earth magnets for storing things like miter gauges. They are strong as can be and allow me to store miter gauges right on the machine (I have several). So my bandsaw, table saw and router table each have a dedicated miter gauge and I stick them right on the machine or the stand. They also work great for router and table saw wrenches, collets, riving knives, and other magnetic accessories. For sleds, I don't have a great solution. Many of my smaller jigs live on top of bank of upper wall cabinets. some hang on the wall. My larger sleds seem to end up wherever I can put them where I am not constantly tripping over them.
  14. 1 point
    He’s a box nerd in a good way! His books and this site are what got me from making bird houses from pallet wood to the direction of some time in the distant future of becoming a woodworker.
  15. 1 point
    It really not that bad. You just need to be patient and not get rambunctious with it. I have had days where after you start the milling process you hand can feel like you tried to choke a cactus... little tiny slivers all over. But I don't think it is as bad as people would have you believe.
  16. 1 point
    As always the wood nerd Shannon Rodgers has an answer. https://www.mcilvain.com/wood-color-changes-explained/
  17. 1 point
    Yup, in someone else's hand.
  18. 1 point
    Wood as a material regardless of species has pretty good tensile strength (pulling strait along the grain) It has good compression strength it most directions. I don't know what the X bracing is called, as an engineer i just want to call it a truss.
  19. 1 point
    Excellent work as always Chet. I agree with Rick about something boat related. I really need to torture myself and try out this Wenge stuff. It looks beautiful! As always the photo stand looks awesome .
  20. 1 point
    Very nice, and I'm comfortable with your process. I used a piece of sandpaper messing with a molding plane a day, or so ago, and I found myself curling up one side of my upper lip like a dog starting an argument.
  21. 1 point
    Way cool Chet something he will treasure forever, great combination of wood and that handle is just right, well done sir!
  22. 1 point
    You shoulda went for a boat with that handle. But you done good my friend.
  23. 1 point
    I do the same thing. The problem is the waiting... Generally speaking I hold off for a week to ten days before adding any finish.
  24. 1 point
    I seem to recall that @phinds said he sands the end grain up to 600 grit to get those micro-photographs.
  25. 1 point
    If it's naturally darkened I'd do some experiments to make sure that it can be close. I hate to say if but if it went naturally to a dark color why not just let the new project go naturally to the same point. Could accelerate it with some time in the sun outside prior to finishing. I'd be concerned with it looking similar now but 5 years later start going in a different direction. Or Baking soda. https://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/aging-wood-with-baking-soda/ Or Lye like @wtnhighlander has done.
  26. 1 point
    Oh something else that crossed my mind earlier, but I forgot to mention. You said your slab was 2 5/8" and you intended resawing to yield two 1 1/4" boards. I think that might be optimistic. You've only left yourself 1/8" for saw kerf and surfacing and that is assuming that 2 5/8" is the minimum thickness of the slab. You might get lucky, but just make sure your table design could tollerate a top that is 1 1/8" or 1 3/16" thick. And lastly, we'd all love to see some follow up on your project, with pictures of course.
  27. 1 point
    Starting to pick up some speed on this project. Glued up the seat frames and cleaned up some templates. Here are the seat templates, you see the frame and the template for the 1/2" plywood that will turn into the cushion. There is about an 1/8th" gap all the way around the seat cushion template. In theory that space will be taken up by the leather covering. The cushion will simply fit in via friction; The seat frame glued up, culls were cut out in one area to achieve a better clamping direction of pressure. The excess on the inside of the frame will receive a rabbet up to the pattern line and the remaining lip will support the cushion. Here's a close up of the back joint in the seat frame. Two stacked 6mm dominos are the support for this joint. Both angles were cut at 42 degrees to match the same 42 degree angle the side and backrest were cut at. Pleased with the joint; The front joint makes up for the combined 42 degree cuts in the back. The side is cut at 6 degrees to match a square front rail, stacked 6mm dominos here also; Here's what's on tap next; Cut off excess on the outside of the seat frame via the band saw. Pattern route the outside of the seat. Rabbet the inside of the seat. Fit the seat frame to the sides of the chair and attach using 8mm dominos. Cut out and fit the plywood cushion base and upholster the seat. Glue up chair. Continue to shape, sand and personalize the look of the chair. Thanks for looking
  28. 1 point
    In July, I posted a router-based method I used to remove the waste from hand cut hand-blind sockets (link). This involved orientating the boards vertically and routing into the end grain. This necessitated a rather clumsy piece of work-holding - which, as I explained at the time, was difficult to avoid as the end grain was not square to the sides, as is usual with drawer front. The bow fronted drawers created ends which were angled.With the usual square drawer fronts, both Bill and Roger on the forum preferred to place their boards flat on the bench and rest the router on the edge. Roger's photos ...However, this method leaves is too much waste remaining at the sides of the socket - as this is angled and the router bit is vertical - which means that there is more work needed to clear ...Bill's objection - that holding the work piece vertically looked too clumsy for easy work - continued to ring in my head. The horizontal method certainly had the advantage of being more stable. So, now that my then-current project, the Harlequin Table, is complete, between pieces I take some time to solve these problems. Which I have, and hopefully in a way that others will find helpful.Just as an aside, my preference is hand tool work, and generally if the wood is willing this is my go-to. The method here is not to replace all hand work, but to make the process easier in particular circumstances. Some of the timbers I work, especially for cases and drawer fronts, are extremely hard, and it is not viable to chop them out, particularly when there are several to do. It is not simply that this is time consuming - after all, this is just my hobby - but that it is hard on the chisels. I use machines to compliment hand tools. There is a time and place for everything.Let's take it from the beginning:Step 1: saw the pins ...Step 2: deepen the kerfs with (in my case) a kerfing chisel (see my website for more info) ...Now we come to the new jig. I must tell you that this did my head in for a long time. As with everything, there is a simple solution, and in the end it could not have been simpler!The need is (1) quick and easy set up, (2) accurate routing leaving minimal waste, and (3) visibility and dust control (bloody machines!).The jigThis turned out to be nothing more than a block of wood. This one is 16"/440mm long x 4"/100mm high and 2"/50mm wide.I used MicroJig clamps, which slide along a sliding dovetail. This is not necessary; one can just use a couple of F-clamps. However the MicroJig clamps not only make work holding less finicky, but they extend the length of the board one can hold with this particular jig to 500mm. That is easily enough for most case widths.To use, place face down on a flat surface and clamp the drawer front close to centre ...Up end the combination, and place the end of the drawer front into your vise. This could be a face vise or, as here, a Moxon vise. Note that the image is taken from the rear of the vise ...This is what you will see when standing in front of the jig/vise ...Let's talk about the router.This is a Makita RT0700C trim router. Fantastic little router: 1 hp, variable speed, soft start. Together with a Mirka 27mm antistatic dust hose, the dust collection is amazing! The photo shown is after use, and there is no dust to be found (I very much doubt that a small plunge router could remain this clean). That also means that visibility is good, even though it does not have a built-in light. There are other excellent trim routers around for much the same price. This is the one I use.The baseThe base is the other half of the jig. This made from 6mm perspex. This is not the strongest, but does the job. I plan to build another out of polycarbonite (Lexan), which is much tougher.There is just the single handle as the left hand will grip the dust outlet.Below is the rear of the base. Note the adjustable fence/depth stop ...This is the underside ...Plans for anyone looking to make their own ...Setting upStep 1: set the depth of cut - I scribed marks on the fence for two drawer side thickness I use. Mostly I use 6mm (or 1/4"). The other is 10mm, which is used here. I shall make another, deeper fence, so that I can add a few other thicknesses, such as 19mm for case sides.Step 2: set the cut to the boundary line - this is done as close as possible. In the end I want to leave about 1mm to clear with a chisel (this is such an important line that I am not willing to take a risk here). If you move the bit side-to-side, the scratch pattern will show where it is cutting ...The resultThe router bit is 5/32" carbide. It is very controllable, and this makes it possible to freehand close to the side kerfs. The fence/depth stop prevents over-cutting the boundary line. In 15 seconds, this is the result ...Turn the board around to chisel out the waste ..Order of waste removalFirst lever away the sides. The waste here is paper thin and breaks away ...Secondly, place a wide chisel in the scribed boundary line, and chop straight down ...Finally, use a fishtail chisel into the corners to remove this ...A note: removing the waste this cleanly and easily was facilitated by using the kerfing chisel to ensure that there was a release cut at the sides of the socket.Regards from PerthDerek
  29. 1 point
    Really cool idea. Well done!
  30. 1 point
    The thing i don't get is most of the operations they show i complete with out any work holding. I'm an unsafe barbarian i guess. I also use these guy a lot which is probably not typical for most woodworkers.