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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/25/20 in all areas

  1. 18 points
    This was turned from a single piece of cocobolo 8 ½” square by 17/4. The surface is sanded to P1200, but with no coatings, just au naturale. With successive convolved designs I have been looking at what happens when the contour lines of the upright and basin are altered. With Sedona the upright and basin are both formed from straight lines. In many ways this shape was the most difficult convolved form to design, engineer and make that I have done so far. For one thing I had to be very particular about the acute angle in the corners. It’s about 40 degrees reflecting the fact that my diamond detail tool is 36 degrees, so about as tight a space as I could work in. Access for hollowing also narrowly limits the possible positions for the upright and basin walls. And quite honestly it is a lot more difficult to make a surface straight rather than curved.
  2. 12 points
    I started a new project/adventure yesterday. Of the four, my 10 year old grand daughter is the grand kid that has always shown the desire to learn woodworking, she is also the youngest. The intelligent questions that come out of her mouth can stun a college professor. So I decided to ask her what she would like to build, you know bird house, napkin holder, those kind of things. Nope, that wasn't going to work, she said with no hesitation I want to build a coffee table for my mom and dad. So that is the project. We spent some time looking at pictures of coffee tables on the internet, after we got some ideas we drew up a design and I showed her how to make a cut list. Then off to the lumber yard. Yesterday in the shop we rough cut all the pieces, jointed and planned them and then stickered them for a couple of days. She is a quick learner and understands the process of being safe so when I took each of these pictures I had her turn the tool off so I could take the picture with out worrying about her safety at the same time. When she was putting pieces through the planer, my wife took the pictures because I was catching for her. The only thing my grand daughter didn't want to do was running the pieces through the jointer so I did that for her and I was glad that she was willing to make a decision like that instead of thinking she "had to" do everything. Laying out parts with a her tape measure and caulk. Rough cut to length with the jig saw. Ripping to rough width at the band saw. Running things through the planer. And Stickering.
  3. 11 points
    Made this one out of Red Gum for the granddaughter, hidden behind the drawer is a musical movement that starts and stops when the drawer is opened, the movement is from http://www.themusichouse.com , if you haven't had a chance to make a music box these are the best people to deal with, awesome folks and a wide selection of movements. not continuous grain all around just 3 corners, the wood is a little thick for my taste but this stuff warps pretty easy and i was getting some bad chip out on the planer so i quit while i was ahead. the drawer box is Sapele, finish is ARS, 3 coats, as always thanks for looking folks, comments-questions are welcome, a special thanks to @Coop for setting me straight on the hinges, these look much better than what i had been doing, just messing with you coop but thanks, i re-learned how to cut mortices with a chisel
  4. 11 points
    A super bandsaw box tutorial, watched this and was making boxes in a flash. Great technique if you haven't seen it before. https://www.finewoodworking.com/2016/06/07/episode-1-introduction-make-beautiful-bandsawn-boxes I grabbed a few chunks of wood and instant boxes; Thanks for looking.
  5. 8 points
    Not quite 4 weeks ago, a good friend, Rita, brought along an entrance hall table she wanted me to fit a drawer into ... (Note that these photos were taken in my entrance hall, not Rita's). It was really a boring ... okay, ugly table. I thought that the proportions were completely ugh, and the legs reminded me of detention in a classroom. The table had been a kerbside salvage by her late husband, a close friend of mine, and a very good woodworker in his own right. It had been used as a work table. Rita had just moved into a new home, and the table was used because the width of the top fitted an alcove in the entrance hall. I said to Rita that I would re-build the table. "But I must have a drawer", Rita emphasised. The wood was good Jarrah. The first step was to pull it apart. This was not so easy as simply unscrewing the clips for the top ... Some evil tablemaker had used a nail gun to attach the corner blocks. Pulling them out left holes in the legs. The legs were attached with dowels. I would never have guessed as the construction was very strong. Pulling them away caused some of the wood to tear along with it. No way to remove them other than saw the ends away. Deconstructed ... Let's begin again .. I thought that I would do something different with this write-up. Turn it around and start with the finished piece. That's right ... the table rebuild is complete. This will provide a picture of the end result, and we can then look at how certain parts were built. This way around might create a better understanding of where the build was going, and how it got there. In particular, the drawer. The drawer is a little beauty. I did scratch my head over the construction. No doubt it has been done before, but I could not find any pictures of another like it. I am sure there will be interest in the design. I am chuffed with the efficiency of it. More on this in the next article. For now, here is the completed table. The legs have been brought inward, tapered, and a 3 degree splay added to the sides. The top retained its width (I was threatened with death, or worse, if it was shortened) but was made shallower. A slight camber was added front-and-back to soften the outline ... The apron was also made shallower. The original was 100mm (4") high. It is now 65mm (2 1/2") high. Oy .. where's the drawer gone?! I could have sworn it was there yesterday. Aah ... there it is ... This is the drawer case ... With drawer inserted - you need to get close up to see the joins .. It opens with a pull under the drawer .. The drawer is shallow, of course, it is just for house keys and the odd remote control. It is just 45mm (1 3/4") high on the outside and 26mm (1") deep inside. The full dimensions are 230mm (9") wide and 280mm (11") deep ... The sides are 7mm thick. The drawer front is 18mm (roughly 3/4"). To maximise the internal height, the drawer bottom was attached with a groove into the drawer sides rather than using slips. Slips would have used a precious extra 3mm (1/8"). So they 6mm (1/4") drawer bottom has a 3mm rebate, fitting a 3mm groove. The sides and bottom are quartersawn Tasmanian Oak, which is very stable and tough. One screw at the rear, with an expansion slot, to hold it firmly. A nice, tight drawer ... It slides in-and-out smoothly. I love that it disappears and is hidden. More on the construction next time, but feel free to ask questions. Regards from Perth Derek
  6. 8 points
    I had a request for a mountain scene cutting board, laser engraved with names and wedding date. I've done a few of these and they come out looking nice but I doubt one ever gets used for anything exception kitchen art! I drew the original design in CorelDraw where I exported it as an svg to bring into Fusion 360. From there I did the CAD/CAM work to cut the Maple, Walnut, and Cherry. These pieces are about 3/8" thick and the backer board is about 7/8" thick. Everything is glued with TB III and the feet are silicone with SS screws and washers, so everything is FDA approved. After cutting the mountain scene and gluing it to the backer board it goes to the table saw for trimming to size and then to the router table for rounding the edge. I do the names and date in CorelDraw and take that file to the laser shop for engraving. That way they don't have to do anything except load the file and start the laser machine. It's finished in mineral oil with Beeswax (our own mix), even though it'll probably just be eye candy for the kitchen. Sky, mountain, foreground blanks; I picked Walnut with some sapwood to look like snowcapped and some in the foreground - Blanks glued - Blanks glued to backer board - Engraving in the laser - Finished cutting board - Enjoy! David
  7. 8 points
    Those who know me know I’m pretty frugal when it comes to tools, I have to really need it and going to use it before I lay out any cash but these from Harry Epstein are earning their keep already. The Veritas wheel marking gauge is a joy to use and the 4”, 6” and 12” squares are right on, couldn’t resist making boxes for the 4 and 6, one all butternut and one quarter sawn sycamore and walnut, the butternut one is a gift for my son
  8. 7 points
    Just the spray gun, not the power unit, came in the mail today. I'm pretty inexperienced when it comes to spraying finish having only used a conversion gun and air compressor in the past which- so so results, with a HUGE mess and huge waste of finishing product. So I'm excited to try this out. I brushed in two coats of poly onto a recent project and am going to spray the final coat.
  9. 7 points
    None of them are worth preserving. As long as you are having fun, just put in as much effort as you see fit. With a view to make them usable, just get them clean so rust and dirt does not transfer to your work. You may also find the standard irons are just fine, especially if you plan to use normal timber. If you add up your time spent restoring them, along with the sundries required it may be more logical to buy new. However I find bringing life back to an old tool an enjoyable distraction. This recent saw cost me £1 and took one hour to sort out.
  10. 6 points
  11. 6 points
    The drawer - part 1 It was my intention from the outset to hide the drawer as best as possible. This required that the drawer not have a pull or handle visible on the outside. To achieve this end, the drawer would need to be opened from the underside. Issue: Opening from the underside meant that the drawer would need to rest in a case which was open from below. Without a case bottom (i.e. drawer blades) on which the drawer could rest, the common method for a drawer would be a form of side hang. There are two methods for a side hung drawer that I know of, and I dislike both of them intensely! Partly because they require thick drawer sides, which lack aesthetic appeal for me. The first is a wooden slide (ugh!) which requires grooving the outside of the drawer sides ... The second method involves a metal slide (double ugh!!), which is ugly and belongs in a kitchen ... In the end I decided that I could build a drawer case with drawer blades open at the front. I have not seen anything like this before, but I live a sheltered life. I doubt this is original ... just re-inventing the wheel. There are four parts to the drawer build: the drawer size and design, the drawer case, fitting the drawer case, and the drawer. The drawer size and design The drawer is 230mm (9") wide and 280mm (11") deep. The width represents one third of the length of the apron. This works well since the depth of the drawer needs to be greater than the width to avoid racking. Racking would not be an issue if there were side slides (ugh!), but we are avoiding those thingies. Note the lip on the underside of the drawer front ... See the drawer lining up with the apron ... going ... going .. ... gone ... That lip is the drawer pull, and it doubles as the drawer stop. The drawer case Let's make the face of the drawer case. The original aprons were 100mm high. The new apron was to be 65mm, which was the height I calculated (with a life size drawing on a MDF sheet). The 65mm height included the drawer front, which would be 45mm high. That would leave a 20mm rail above the drawer. The first step here is to rip away 45mm from the original apron ... These two sections are jointed so that they may be perfectly flush once glued back together, and no join evident. The jointing was done on my large shooting board ... The drawer front is marked off - with a knife, not a pencil - from the centre of the 45mm wide board ... And then the drawer front is crosscut on the table saw. The cut area is covered in blue tape to minimise spelching ... We are now left with four sections - the wide top, the two lower side sections, and the middle drawer front. The sections are glued back (taking care not to glue the drawer front back!) ... Once the glue has dried, plane the board flat ... Did you see it before? Now the board is ripped down to 65mm, leaving a 20mm rail above the drawer front. Here you can see the front and rear aprons. They have also been cut to length, given a tenon at each end. The apron tenons are angled 3 degrees for the splayed legs ... Part 2 will complete the drawer. Regards from Perth Derek
  12. 6 points
    Marcy discovered that she doesn't need a ladder to trim the tall bush. I discovered that it costs $15 to have a hard drive destroyed, but it's more than $15 worth of fun to take one apart.
  13. 6 points
    More experiments in tablesaw turning: Seems to have come out OK. Definitely better to use the outer plates of my dado stack, stiffness resists side loading. Last time, someone suggested that spinning the work from the central pivot would be safer. I tried just turning the wing nut that holds the rotating parts together when I cut the outside. After losing the feeling in my thumb for a week, I made this Q&D tee handle for doing the inside. Much better!
  14. 6 points
    Pressure washed the deck. My wife WE should pressure wash the deck Me ok I'll get it out for you while I clean your pool filters... Wife OK I just finished pressure washing the deck ... apparently this is my wife's idea of WE cleaning the deck. I'm really glad she looks comfortable reading her book
  15. 5 points
    Not a lot to show for the day but she learned how to do some different things. First she ripped the top pieces to width for glue up. Then did some layout for dominos to help with the glue up. Then she practiced using the domino machine on some scraps. Then on to the real thing. Applying glue... ...and into the clamps. After this she practiced cutting curves on the band saw and cleaning them up, first with the spindle sander. and then using a spoke shave. After that and some lunch, we took the top out of the clamps and cleaned up some squeeze out and then ran it through the drum sander, I didn't get any pictures of that. She learned how to do an epoxy fill on some small knots in the top. And she learned that everyday, at the end of the day the shop gets cleaned up.
  16. 5 points
    Got another part of my Father's Day gift from my son today. These little drop shipments are like Christmas over and over again. Veritas from Lee Valley. Seems like it will work ok. Won't win any style points, but will mark lines 
  17. 5 points
    Not in the mail but I picked up a little chisel plane from Woodcraft since they have them on sale right now.
  18. 5 points
    Then I came home and did a little project I've been meaning to do - gun vise. This one is a prototype based off a plan I found on the net. Has a little cam wedgie thing on the butt end to hold the rifle in place. It works, but it could be better. I got what I paid for with the plans Later, better versions are already in my head.
  19. 5 points
    Banner package day. Try not to drool on the keyboard over this spalted maple. And the less exciting stuff: a whole lot of rubber feet and the screws to make sure they don't fall off for cutting boards, some small knobs, double-sided tape, and finish. Not a big fan of glossy water based poly but have to finish some curly maple drawer fronts and the flat on the rest of the piece won't do.
  20. 5 points
    You will want to do breadboard ends and drawbore them so that it stays flat no matter what. This top is 115" x 40" in QSWO.
  21. 4 points
    I re-upped today for another tour of duty. Plan was that tomorrow was to be my last day at work. I hashed out a deal with the new owner that I will work 3 days a week for two weeks a month instead of for 3 weeks a month. 11 days off, 3 at work, 11 days off, etc. . Instead of full retirement, I kinda did it for my wife’s sanity as well as my own!
  22. 4 points
    This thread makes my day Chet, that’s one talented and smart girl right there, she’s fortunate to have such a great teacher, wouldn’t be surprised to see her being a woodworker her whole life thanks to you
  23. 4 points
    Length of board is not limited by the length of the jointer bed. Longer bed just makes it easier.
  24. 4 points
    Good times Chet. My 15 YO grand daughter has always been interested in spending time in the shop, but the lately has really wanted to do more. Here parents hardly know which end of a hammer is which. We are doing some cabinet renos in our 5th wheel & she is involved in every bit of the job. Most times when I start to explain a process she interrupt to finish because she's always 1 step ahead. You can't put a price on time spent like this.
  25. 4 points
    For this one, my 70th, I went to get a load of wheat straw out of the field. This came from a family farm, not too far from us. As usual, the youngest drives the truck, and the others toss it on the trailer. I rode the trailer, and did the stacking. I was the only one on the trailer, and did this stacking of 145 bales. Fortunately, they had some nice shade trees to tie it down under. Not a whole days work, as it was loaded by 9:30 this morning. I had spread ten bales by hand, but will rent a blower for this.
  26. 4 points
    Clean them up, learn how to set them up, and put them to work. Like this.
  27. 4 points
    Alison passed away Tuesday morning, after a lengthy illness, as they say. She's not suffering any more and I'm at peace with that. In the end, she went quietly. The word I hear people use to describe her more than any other is kind. Tuesday evening one of my friends sent me a text asking if she and her husband could bring over some pizzas and beer. Alison's son and his dad were there and it was just what we all needed in the moment. We have been having the stucco on our house redone. Around 9:30 I noticed a car coming down the driveway and someone walking toward my shop, so I went outside to check it out. When I approached him he looked terrified and tried to explain that he didn't speak any English. I let him know that I speak Spanish also so he told me that while moving some scaffolding they had accidentally knocked a hummingbird nest out of one of our plum trees with a mama and two babies in it. He had taken them home along with the nest, and fed them. He was bringing them back in a small Tupperware dish to place them back in the tree. Nothing would have thrilled Alison more. Mama and babies are doing fine. There is kindness in this world. We simply have to notice it.
  28. 4 points
    She is probably reading the chapter of Tom Sawyer where they are White Washing the fence.
  29. 4 points
  30. 4 points
    I don't know what type of screw you were using, but if it was brass it's always a good idea to pretap the hole with a steel screw before running the brass screw in. Another thing I always do is lube the screw with beeswax or parafin before running it in. Also make sure the predrill is at least as deep as the screw length. Suddenly hitting undrilled wood when the screw is already heated up from threading it in can put a sudden stress on it causing it to snap off.
  31. 4 points
    Funny, my Grandma was using solar power for things like drying clothes and heating bathwater before rural TN even had electricity. All it cost her was a rope and a washtub. You know you are a redneck if you've ever been third through the bath water. In all seriousness, it pays to consider that the greenest, most efficient way to reduce energy cost is to just not use so much.
  32. 4 points
    Quarter sawn not only looks better, It's much more stable than flat sawn, by at least a two to one margin. QSWO is what you want, Can you afford it is another matter. Often , Price doesn't enter into it if your going to build something that will at least outlive your grandchildren. And the flecking in the wood affords you a dare, for good match up.
  33. 3 points
    Just arrived. This is the brushless version of the 150/3 that I already own. I have some nerve damage in my arm so a lighter tool is always welcomed.
  34. 3 points
    Finishes ... Somehow this area was forgotten, and of course it is important. All surfaces were hand planed, and then finished in de-waxed Ubeaut Hard Shellac. This concentrated and thinned with denatured alcohol/methylated spirits. This finish allows the figure to come through and, unlike an oil, does not darken the already dark Jarrah (which is what I wanted to avoid). The top was, in addition, sanded with a ROS to 400 grit. Jarrah is an open-grain timber and the sanded Shellac doubled as a grain-filler, leaving a smoothed surface. The next step was to rub in (and off) a water-based poly, from General Finishes, which does not darken or yellow with age. I rub thin coats on with microfibre cloths and then denib with 400 grit grey mesh ... The final step is to wax (the top) with Howards Wax-N-Feed, which is a mix of beeswax and carnauba wax. This produces a very soft, warm and natural finish. Regards from Perth Derek
  35. 3 points
    Robby, if you are like me, and maybe I’m more sentimental, but anything a family member (or anyone) gives me as a gift, I acknowledge the gift when I receive it and think of the person that gave it to me when I use it. Even if it is a gift card, I let them know what they gave me, always! Marking knives are cool and very useful.
  36. 3 points
    Anticipation! Ok, it’s been 23 hours and I don’t care what continent you’re in, that’s still almost a full day, and no update?
  37. 3 points
    I am really happy with them. It makes breaking down so much easier, you don't have to figure out how to position work so you have it hanging over the edge for a cut.
  38. 3 points
    Hope it helps. Like many figured woods the look we love is often due to a variation in density and grain direction in the wood. There in lies the challenge. I enjoy getting a nice look from some of our coarser choices, shedua, peruvian walnut, lacewood, leopardwood, even the curly and birds-eye boards add a little work to get the surface we're after. Avoid a ROS or other sander that has a soft pad. Even my "hard" rated pad has to be used with care on things like tiger maple. They are fine for the first couple of grits but, you've got to be careful not to end up with a tiger maple washboard . I switch to a hard cork or rubber block once I get to 220 and use it through whatever grit I stop at. Sand a piece of leopardwood scrap to 600 or 1000 and buff it on a wheel with some compound. It will give you some interesting ideas for detail elements on future pieces; pulls, quirts, proud-plugs.
  39. 3 points
    That thing is beautiful! I like that you took the extra effort to miter the drawer front sides. Something I wouldn’t have thought about doing.
  40. 3 points
    Just wanted to say thank you for everyone's reply and inspiration. After spending about 16hrs on the metal body planes removing rust, flattening the soles, adjusting the frogs and honing irons along with their corresponding chip breakers I've found the Winchester and wards master #6 worthy of fine tuning. The other metal body planes I'll likely set up as scrub planes. I was surprised that all of them with even this small amount of tuning would produce consistent .002" shavings on southern yellow pine. The Wards and Winchester just seem to respond better to adjustments in depth of cut along with the way the frog beds in them. I've only played around with the wooden body planes for a short period of time. I do find I like the a lot. Even with my minimal amount of experience and not honing the iron at all I could get the larger plane to work on aromatic cedar. My optimism might be because I've only been using aromatic cedar and pine but I'll hesitate to pull out the rift and quartered white oak for a day I'm feeling especially cocky
  41. 3 points
    I first experienced hospice thru a long time friend’s short stay there. And then again with my mom. The folks there were angels sent from heaven.
  42. 3 points
    I remember 70. As I recall, I was hating not taking the day off. I could be wrong though, it was almost 8 years ago, And, I've noticed that without my driver license I'm not sure of who I might be.
  43. 3 points
    Today I went to the range and this extra target wandered through. Not a care in the world. We all stopped shooting of course.
  44. 3 points
  45. 3 points
    I was the first of four boys and got the first of the baths with # 2 getting my left overs. #3 got the clean water and # 4 getting the left overs. Now I wonder if my first was really something that mom and dad had left over? Hell, who cares as I lived thru it!
  46. 3 points
    Man, I'm so sorry to hear another loss in our group. She don't hurt now, A prayer is on the way for her, and for you to young'un.
  47. 3 points
    So....this is embarrassing. You know the old saying "Measure twice cut once."? I re-measured the kitchen and....well....I have absolutely no idea where I got 108" from. Honestly I'm baffled. The kitchen will only accommodate a 6' table. I do believe all of the above advice is still sound though.
  48. 3 points
    Attending the Fine Woodworking Webinar - Tools and the Furnituremaker with Allan Breed
  49. 3 points
    When you glue the top up, be sure to have the grain running in the same direction so you can plane it without worrying about grain direction. I also suggest you use a slightly sprung joint so you don't get splits on the glueline near the ends of the top. I also personally prefer that all boards be oriented with the rings in the same direction. That way, you can take the cup out of the top with a single screw at the center. Finally, with a top that big and thick, buy some good beer to have around when you have to get your buddies to help you move or flip it. It is going to weight several hundred pounds.
  50. 3 points
    Leopard wood with Seal Coat de-waxed shellac followed by an oil/varnish blend. 1:1:1 mineral spirits, BLO and poly if I recall correctly. The Seal Coat was to keep the Peruvian 'walnut' from bleeding into the leopard wood. Depending on what you are doing you could skip it. These are sanded with a hard cork block with the abrasive drawn very tight. You want a flat unyielding abrasive surface and a steady walk through the grits.