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  1. 13 points
    About a year ago I read Nick Offerman's book. It's a pretty fun read if you have not read it. In that book, he has a picture of a table designed and built by George Nakashima. It's this picture: When I saw that picture I was immediately smitten with this design. To my eye this table is somehow both complex and simple at the same time. I knew when I saw the table I needed it on my todo list. I could not start on the table right away. I had to remodel our kitchen which took an incredible amount of time. I had to build some shelves. I also built a small counter top for our laundry room. All that took many months. Too many months. And all through those months I could not get this table out of my head. And now that we are in the dead of the summer here in Arizona.....where it has been around 117 degrees for a couple of weeks.....I have finally been able to get started. I did some googleing and found some more pictures of the table to emulate. I was also able to find some rough plans: I now have enough enthusiasm and knowledge to be very dangerous. So I went and bought some wood! The 4 boards on the right are 8/4 white oak, these will make up the table top. These are 10 feet long. My table is only 6 feet but they only sell them in full lengths. I will have a lot of big off cuts. White oak is my favorite so I suppose having some extra white oak kicking around is not a bad thing. The board on the far left is 12/4 white oak. I SHOULD be able to get all the pieces needed for the base out of just that one board. We'll see though. Just getting these monster boards out of the truck and into my garage by myself took some mental (and physical) gymnastics but I did it. I am building the base first and I will do the top last. My reasoning is that if I were to glue up the table top, which will be 3'x6' then that top is going to be very heavy. Way too heavy for me to move by myself safely. And at that size the top will probably be in the way in my small shop/garage and would require being moved around a lot. But the individual boards, while still heavy, are much easier to move around. For the base I am starting from the ground up. I'll make the long "runner" that runs along the floor first, then the "feet" that sick out to either side, then angled "legs" and end with the cross pieces at the top of the legs. To make the base I need to turn that large 12/4 board into smaller boards. As you can imagine, this took a bit of time. But I rather enjoyed it. Here is what you are looking at in the above pic. I jointed and planed the long floor runner (I don't really know what to call that thing) and that is what you are seeing on the right, it's just under 5' long. To it's left, that large piece will be the "legs". That piece is just over 5' long, it will be cross cut directly down the middle for the legs. Below the leg piece is the part I will be using for the feet. And below the already milled piece is where I will get the cross supports that will be the top of the legs. I ended up ripping all 10' of that board by hand. I was not as sore as I thought I would be, but I did get more blisters than I thought I would. All of those parts got crosscut and milled. Now for the REALLY fun stuff. The joinery! Starting with the Floor Runner and the Feet. This is the runner. It gets a notch. I cut close to the line then did relief cuts. Chisel out then waste trying hard not to blow out the back side. Establish my marking lines. Not flawless but she's square and my knife lines ended up perfect. Now for the feet. This joint is a little trickier. Need to make this lap on both sides, so mark it, cut it, chisel it. Clean up with the router plane. Then clean up with the chisel. I need to make a notch in the foot that will correlate to the notch in the runner. Same exact steps as the others. Cut. Rough chisel work. Then some fine chisel work. Ready for a dry fit. Fits very snug. I actually had to plane the sides of the runner a little bit to get the joint to seat fully. Here is the bottom which no one will see. Here is the top looking VERY sharp. And both feet done! I have left everything long. I will not cut the runner or the feet to their final width until I have the table top made. That way I will have a much better sense of proportions. Next I will work on the legs. The leg joinery will be very similar to the joinery for the feet but this time the runner will be getting the laps on the sides and the legs will just receive the notch. Anyone know what the name of that joint is? I assume it is some kind of bridle joint. Housed Bridle Joint? Lapped Bridle Joint? Well whatever it's called it was my first time doing it. I spent an embarrassing amount of time trying to figure out how to mark everything. Thanks for taking the time to look. I'll keep updating as I get stuff done, but don't hold your breath, I do not get much opportunity to do much woodworking. I currently have no time for the next 2 weeks. But I'll keep plugging along. If anyone sees any red flags that I am overlooking please shout them out. I still very much consider myself a beginner and could use the help of you veterans.
  2. 13 points
    Okay, the last day started off by attaching the figure 8's to the base. Then center punching for the screw hole in the top. Then drilling and pre-threading the holes in the top. A final vacuuming of the parts before finishing. This next step is were she really left me impressed. I thought this is were she would have some struggles but after practicing the spray process on some spare plywood. I was real amazed at the job she did on the actual top. She was just a little nervous and asked me to spray the base. Spraying the bottom of the top. And the top side. A couple of final pictures. And one with the newly minted woodwork.
  3. 12 points
    I've been a little quiet on here lately. Since going back to the dental office, I've had 3 months of patients backed up. This has really cut into my free time so I'm needing this project to give me some sanity. After I finished my SUP (which I documented on here) in April, I had enough time and wood to build a second one before going back to work. They have gotten a lot of use since then, and their success got me wondering about building a Kayak (which might turn into plural in the future). So after doing the research, I decided to go the kit route. The kit will include instructions, glassing, epoxy, hardware and the wood. The kayak will have a stitched and glued plywood hull and a cedar strip deck. It's considered a hybrid build since it incorporates both types of kayak construction that is typically done now. The kit was purchased from Chesapeake Light Craft (CLC) out of Annapolis MD, (https://www.clcboats.com/shop/kayak-kits/). They offer dozens of kayak models and it's pretty impressive with the builds they offer. I was a little reluctant to give in to the kit route, but really the only difference would be to buy the plywood and the strips then use their patterns to cut out my parts. What CLC does is it uses a CNC to cut out the plywood parts, resulting in much more accurate pieces than I could cut. The strips for the deck with have a cove and bead edging for quick and effective construction. @pkinneb has a stitch and glue kayak post on here from a few years back, I won't be as lucky as he was though as he built most of it in lovely Maine. I'm planning to do this build in my garage, not my workshop, that way I can still do some woodworking as I'm waiting for epoxy to cure and varnish to dry. The model I've choose to build is their Woodduck 12. It's a beamy boat with good stability, not very long (12ft), but perfect for cruising back bays and for fishing from. Here a some samples of Woodduck 12s built from these kits. The pattern for the strip deck is something I'll have the freedom to design, but will take more time to construct than if I went with a plywood deck. I'll be making the trip to Annapolis today to pick up my kit, it will be a pleasant 2.5 hr round trip, giving me plenty of time to daydream about the finished product. Thanks for looking!
  4. 12 points
    Only because I didn't want to disappoint you, Ken, I used mesquite for trim on the doors and stiles. And to top it off, I used Lone Star pulls.
  5. 12 points
    30 bdft of quartersawn white oak and 10bdft of maple from Bell Forest.
  6. 11 points
    I went for a first ride, finally! So much fun!
  7. 11 points
    Can we get an oooh My new Blue Spruce mallet, cocobolo handle curly maple 16oz polymer infused head ...one of two birthday presents to my self My wife: Wow that looks way to nice to hit anything with Me: Your point
  8. 11 points
    Cody's looking good. Good on ya Ross. I added to the family today. 2 month old Great Pyrenees little girl.
  9. 11 points
    Finished! The bed is based on the Greene and Greene bed in the Gamble house. The house and the furniture were designed a built by the brothers. I did a modification to the foot board, because I'm 6' tall and tall foot boards are bothersome. Finished with shellac and wax. African Mahogany, Gaboon veneered center panel, and Danizia pegs and splines. I used the plans by Martin McClendon from FWW Jan/Feb 2013. I really liked that he used six spindles on each side for the queen sized bed, four just don't look right to me. Happy 4th! Sorry not a full project journal.
  10. 11 points
    My daughter is in town. We went up to the nearest DQ for my now 13-year-old pup's birthday. Maggie got her own burger and her own ice cream cone! Then we headed home for ribs and margaritas. The weather was perfect.
  11. 10 points
    Had the pleasure of meeting up with @Chestnut and taking a tour of his awesome shop space and showroom, also known as his home. Drew has quite the setup for his well equipped shop and lumber stacks that would make any woodworker drool. I can honestly say if there was a store bought piece of furniture in their home I didn't notice it Thanks for the time Drew always a pleasure. As soon as the basements done I hope to have you guys out to our place.
  12. 9 points
    Let's get this thing going. I made the drive to Annapolis MD to pick up my kit. Threw the few boxes in my F250 and home I went so excited to start. It's completely amazing how well the kit was packed and amazing how few pieces you start with. Most of the stuff are cans of varnish, epoxy, and other construction essentials. They really do outfit you well with this build. So here's the "kayak" unpacked; The 2 stacks of wood you see wrapped in plastic are not actuall part of the kayak, they will be used as forms for the strip decking. Here's my progress on day one. After unpacking and getting organized, I start by putting together the hull. The hull will basically be 4 panels stitched together. Each one of these panels are in 2 pieces, so the first thing to do is to glue the panels together. Chesapeake Light Craft's CNC generated parts are pretty darn incredible. The joint is a puzzle piece fit; And the fit is dead on perfect; Another thing to notice, see the tiny holes in the bottom right of the pic, those come already drilled and those are the holes you use to stitch Before glueing, I did my best to pick panels that matched and made sure the best sides faced out. Then using epoxy and a fiberglass strip I glued the panels together; I used some left over fast set epoxy left over from my SUP build, so after a few hrs I was ready to move on. Quick cleanup with a sander. Oh, and another point, you want the glassed section of the joint to the inside of the kayak, the outer side of the joint has no glassing, just some excess epoxy. Once the panels are glued you prepare for the stitching of the hull. The mating surfaces are beveled. This went quickly with a rasp, again take note of the holes for the stitches; Cut my copper wire, 4 rolls included in the kit, way more than I'll need; Then the lower two pieces of the hul are laid together, inside face to inside face and you start threading wires through the holes. I was amazed that all the holes matched perfectly with each other. After stitching the hull you open it up like an envelop and wire in forms to create the shape. Here it is after those steps; Once I get the next panels on I'll tighten up the wires to close the seams, make sure everything to square and level. I will say the bow and stern were very difficult to bring to gether. The above pic is the stern, was able to get one of these holes stitched, but not the top one yet. Left it that way until the next day hoping the wood fibers will have "adapted". If not then they recommend wetting the plywood. Thanks for looking.
  13. 9 points
    It's here Looking forward to getting this set up and using on some chair and bar stools projects I have coming up.
  14. 9 points
    I thought I'd like to make an urn for Alison. I picked up a Rikon 70-220VSR midi lathe for the project along with a Rikon slow speed 8" grinder, a Nova G3 chuck and a few turning tools. I'll make the base since the one Rikon sells is a little on the lighter side in my experience. Also, I can wheel it into the garage and out of the way when I'm not using it. So far I've been impressed. Very smooth and alignment was pretty much dead on out of the box. I ordered it from Tool Nut on Saturday and it's here today.
  15. 9 points
    I made an attachment for my Starrett combination square heads and my LN side rabbet planes, here's a short video: For those of you who haven't seen my tool chest build, here's a link:
  16. 9 points
    Today she started off by adding a small chamfer to the bottom edge of the table top. First some practice with a piece of scrap. Then on to the actual top. Then it was a lot of sanding. She started out using my ETS 150/5 but was a lot more comfortable using the smaller 125. Practiced drilling the holes for the figure 8's. Then getting it done on the actual aprons. She tried doing a chamfer on the bottom of a scrap leg and she was doing fairly well but she said that she kept losing the grip of the plane and her hand was always sliding so I ended up doing the legs themselves for her. One thing I have learned with this project is that we as adults take all the tools we use for granted but for a little one like her it is totally different. Then we glued up the base. No action shots here, it took both of us spreading glue to get it done, it was pretty warm in the shopped I didn't want the glue setting up on us. But I do have to say she has a real aptitude for spreading glue with a brush. I guess the art time back in kindergarten paid off.
  17. 8 points
    When I told a good friend of mine that I'd bought a small lathe he said he was sending me a "care package". I wasn't sure what to expect but after a few failed attempts at delivering them I finally was able to pick them up at the post office. As his skills have improved he's replaced all these with Carter & Son tools. Friends are great!
  18. 8 points
    After dark, I answer the door undressed. Scares the hell out of 'em and they never come back.
  19. 8 points
    My tires rotate every time I drive
  20. 8 points
    For today I now have what looks like a kayak. On tap was to finish stitching, working and getting alighment of the panels correct, and tacking the panels together with epoxy. Here's the kayak after stitching; Checking out to make sure there is no twist in the kayak; It's amazing how simple it was to get to this stage. There is a lot of stress on the wires in some areas, but it still is not too hard to coax the panels together. Here is the tacking of the joints with epoxy. I was told to mix it with wood flour until it was the consistency of ketchup. It seems like they use a lot of condiment references in the manual; Then the bow and stern will filled in with a peanut butter consistency of wood flour and epoxy; After 24 hrs I'll take out the wires and do my fillets. This will be the glue mixture that "holds the kayak together. If this seems wierd or you think I just like making food refernces, you'll have to look at my next post to see what I'm talking about. Thanks for looking.
  21. 8 points
    So yesterday i got my bearings back and remembered the direction I was going, then promptly went off in a different direction. I started finding material to get the vertical dividers and drawer runners fabricated. It took a lot of searching to find scraps that were thick enough for the drawer runners. I wanted to make them the same thickness as the dividers but not waste walnut. Turns out one of the boards I thought was pine ended up being red oak so i chopped it up for the main runners. I had a 6/4 scrap of cherry from the chairs for the outside runners. I forgot to take pictures of all of that so I'll have to update later with how the dividers and runners are going to work. Check Back later I'll fill this in. In order to make the vertical dividers work I followed Mr. Cremona's guide of laminating another board to the lower front stretcher. This allowed me to sneak a double tenon in for all of the dividers. My dividers are 1" in the visible plane and 1.25" thick into the case. This makes them feel nice and beefy but also look very delicate it's a good compromise. I made a mark so the lamination is clearish. Today I started working on getting the sides complete and ready for glue up. First order was to measure to make sure my panel material didn't shrink in the 2 months it's been waiting. Turns out it's still the right size. I knew going into this that I would be cutting it close. So i jointed an edge and face of the 2 boards and planed the other face parallel. Then it was to the band saw for a quick resaw to get 2 1/4" panels. I spend some time at the drum sander finessing the fit. Then it was trim to size and see how things look. After my test fit was a success I cleaned up the drum sander marks with my card scraper. Good hint for card scraper use is to have a magnet on the back. It helps protect your fingers from the heat of the card scraper. I also use it to remind my self which edge is my cutting edge. I orient the magnet so the cutting edge would be down if you were reading the magnet. It's then obviously on the side without the magnet or maybe not obviously if you haven't' seen this trick. I got these DFW scarpers off amazon and I really like them. Not sure if my prep was better with them or if the steel is better but I can get some dang fine shavings. These ones were almost looking like the came from a smoothing plane. After scraping was a quick sand to even out the scraper marks then pre-finishing. It's the most humid time of the year so these panels will only shrink from this point. I still cut them with some good room to spare but not as much as if I was making this in the winter. The one board ended up with some AWESOME figure. I"m excited to see these sides in place now. Maybe i'll have this guy finished by the end of august. The other side's panels are on the more boring side.... it's rough lumber I thought they were both going to be boring... at least that was my intent...
  22. 8 points
    Sometimes I amaze myself with the wealth of accumulated knowledge I've managed to pick up over the years. Take electrical expertise for example. I was able to determine, after only about 2 ½ hours of tinkering with the controller that the 9V backup battery was dead. And so goes 2020.
  23. 8 points
    Made an offer on our first home. Sign says “Sold” but offer hasn’t been accepted yet, but builder’s agent seems to think it will be. Have lived in 7 different homes in the last 13 years with the military and are hoping we can finish my last 5 years of service in this one. Really excited to have a home that is our own.
  24. 8 points
    We had my wifes celebration of life yesterday. Several people there. The plant from the forum is really nice. I really appreciate it. I'm not the greatest with house plants, but I'm going to do my best to keep it going.
  25. 8 points
    Well she cut a bunch of curves today. First up the legs. She did a curved reverse taper on the two outside faces of the legs. I cleaned up those cuts at the router table with a pattern bit so this makes two machines in the process that she didn't want to use, first the jointer and now the router table. I think she has made some good choices in not doing anything she is not comfortable with. Here she is cutting the curves on the leg. This is the second cut with the waste from the first cut taped back on. It looks like her back hand is in a bad place but I posed most of the pictures with the saws off. I failed to get any pictures of her cutting the curves on the apron pieces but here she is at the spindle sander cleaning up the cuts, first on the long aprons... ...then on the shorter aprons. She did have a mistake at the band saw cutting the curve on one of the small aprons. She lost sight of the line because it sort of blended with the grain. It would have been easy to just mill another one up but I told her that there are ways to fix small mistakes. I told her I could show her how or we could make a new piece all over. She wanted to see me fix it. I took a chisel and shaved a thin piece off the off cut, supper glued it in the kerf and to the under side of the curve so when she sanded the curve again after the fix it would flake of. Here, in the close up you can see it just to the left of the high point of the curve. But from a normal distance it is pretty hard to see. I told her to keep it a secret, don't point it out to people. Couple of pictures of the dry fit. Next up is to chamfer the bottom edge of the top, some sanding and a glue up.
  26. 8 points
    Finally received a saw I ordered in April from Japan, covid slowed its delivery Also received some Brusso hardware I purchased off a Woodwhisper FB member , $130 for over $300 in product. I look forward to using a couple new pieces but most were things I use often.
  27. 7 points
    I finally get to participate. Got me 3 ea. Dubuque 48” clamps and a 1/2” spiral up Whiteside bit.
  28. 7 points
    Let's keep this thing moving forward. Important steps today, did the filleting and glassing of the inside of the hull. It takes 4 steps pretty much in succession. I mixed a lot of epoxy. No mess of fish yet @Chip Sawdust! So I started with removing all the wires and fitting some blocks to the stern area. These will be imbedding in epoxy. You can just do and end pour after the construction and fill this area with epoxy, adding rigidity and allowing for a hole to be drilled thru the stern for a rope handle. I'm accomplishing this with these blocks, it does save some weight; Next it the filleting of the seams. This is pronounce fill-it, and basically that's what you are doing to the seams. You mix epoxy to peanut butter consistency by adding wood flour and load it into a bag and squirt it along the seams like a baker puts icing on a cake. Seems like a lot of food references doesn't it. Well you have to work fast on this step because the mass of epoxy will start to heat up and kick into hardening mode. Spreading it out allows for the heat to dissapate and it doesn't set as fast once you get it into the seams. So no pics of the process, just the finished product, you want just enough to fill the seams, any more doesn't add strength, just extra weight; Once the fillets start to set you move on to glassing the seams, Here is the glass prior to wetting with epoxy; The smoother your fillets the better you glassing looks. After you place the glass you wet it with epoxy and coat the inside of the boat with epoxy; Soon after this step you move on to glassing a sheet of glass in the floor of the hull where you sit. This just adds some rigidity and strength to this area. Here it is with the glass in place and wetted with epoxy, it's hard to see but if you look close you'll see the glassing; Oh, and here's a pic of the stern where the blocks are imbedded in epoxy and wood flour; So one more step today, I need to fill the weave of the glass in the seating area of the hull, this is done with a coat of epoxy. A lot of steps but it went fast, this project is much easier than I thought it would be so far. My experince glassing surf boards really helps here. On tap this week is to flip the boat over, sand and shape the exterior surface of the hull. Not a lot of sanding and shaping, rounding over sharp angles and sanding epoxy drips. Once the hull is sanded it's on to glassing the outside of the hull. Thanks for looking!
  29. 7 points
    In the early part of the last century artists flocked to this area in no small part because of the sunrises and sunsets. The light is different here. Clear skies, high altitude, etc.
  30. 7 points
    Yeah, I was ready to go around 5am but figured I'd better wait since it was my first time on the bike. It takes a little getting used to switching the modes and figuring out how each works with the different gears, when to use the throttle, etc. Loads of fun, though. And as much or as little exercise as you want.
  31. 7 points
    Got a few things done this weekend. I got the cyclone/blower tower completed and added the duct down to the ducts on the floor. Here is where I started from. I installed this setup, with a 1 micron 6 ft tall bag from Rockler, about 15 years ago and it has served me well: The filter shown was as originally recommended to me by Wynn Environmental. I don't recommend this setup and neither to they now. It plugs really fast. That filter needs a cyclone to work correctly, thus this rebuild. I tried something different for the DC setup. I wanted as low a loss as possible for the turn from the cyclone input to the ducts on the floor. I could have used a hard 90 degree elbow that is standard, but last time I was at the electrical distributors, I noticed the large radius PVC conduit elbows. They are available in 3, 4, 5 and 6 inch sizes, maybe more. I picked up a 5" elbow in Schedule 40 thickness. I had to route out a little bit on each end to fit the inlet to the metal version of the Oneida Super Dust Deputy that I bought a number of years back. I made a little gadget similar to the bearing that guides a flush trim bit for edgebanding, but taller to allow for the height of the material I needed removed. I only needed to remove a little bit, about 1/16". Here is a picture of the router fitted with the gadget: I learned the hard way to make sure everything is tight before you make the cut. Here is the result: You can see where it came loose in the upper left. (Why do woodworkers feel compelled to point out their mistakes?) Once that was done, I fitted the pipe elbow to the cyclone/blower stack. I had to add a support to keep it stable and not rip off the inlet to the cyclone. The elbow was kind of heavy. Here is what it looked like: Very fancy construction with 2x4 and scraps of melamine for the dust box. It figures that the power cord is now 1 foot too short....And I forgot to change it before putting the blower in place. I used the old 5 inch to 4 inch Y fitting in the end of the elbow to connect to my ducts: Years ago, when I first installed my ducts, I needed to make a transition from the schedule 40 ABS pipe to 4" hose. I found out that by cutting a ring off the pipe, then removing a small section and gluing it into the opening in the pipe, it mates perfectly with the hose: This picture shows the adapter that I cut off from the old system plugged into a coupler, but you can do it straight into the end of the pipe. The ABS has worked really well. The carbon used to make it black helps dissipate static (doesn't cure it, but helps) and it is fairly cheap here on the west coast. I ran my ducts around the floor near the walls. It works out in my layout and saved me having to run things up to the 10 ft ceiling in my shop/garage. This elbow and Y setup removed about 10 feet of 4" hose that used to connect my blower to the ducts. We will see how it runs. Finally, the great fun of cleaning the filter. First, I tried the air hose. Sort of worked, but not so much. Then I tried vacuuming it out. I didn't have the correct brush attachment - it is somewhere in my shop - but I was able to get some of it out. Still not too good. Chestnut hit the nail on the head with the leaf blower. I got out my 700 MPH blower (Hey, it has to be true - it said it on the box!) and went at it. I have to admit that the blower put out a lot of air. It was hard to hold both the blower and the filter. That got rid of most of the dust after about 40 minutes. After cleaning up, I went back inside and rested my weary back. I wish I could say I had a root beer, but we were out. Next weekend, I get to make a filter/plenum box setup and a box to catch the chips. Add a door to the to the chip box and make an extension cord and it is test time! Don't know if I will get it done though. Lots of Boy Scout stuff on Saturday and my birthday party on Sunday! Damn. Getting old isn't as fun as they say. The only thing golden is the lining in our doctor's pockets.
  32. 7 points
    Wow I can't believe its been a month... The counters are all ready for epoxy but I'm held up trying to locate a $3 bottle of 91% isopropyl alcohol apparently a victim of Covid19...My wife found a bottle of 70% so I will check with stone coat counter tops tomorrow to see if that will work. In the mean time all three counters are body worked, primed, and ready to go I also got the curved base cabinet glued up, what a PITA I permanently installed all three cabinets, mounted the face frames, and fired up the coolers that have been sitting in the basement for over two years. They worked that's good LOL Hoping to get the counters epoxied this week then just a small tile back splash, install the sink, and the bar will be complete except for the cabinet doors. The plan is to make the bath vanity next and then make the doors for the dart board, bar, and vanity all at once.
  33. 7 points
    Got the main parts cut out and assembled for the base for the lathe. Still have a few misc parts and pieces coming in for the next few days to fit in the drawers.
  34. 7 points
  35. 7 points
    OK. Dinner is done. Country fried steak with homemade white gravy. Yumm! Step 1 was to build a new cabinet to hold my sharpening equipment, bandsaw stuff and drill press supplies like bits, etc. I needed it to be smaller than the old cabinet so it would fit in the space between my workbench and bandsaw, with the dust collection gear behind it. I had 34 inches of width to work with, and about 18" of depth. I needed to incorporate an 8" grinder, a 6" buffer and my Worksharp 3000, which one of my son's gave me for Christmas and I have found great for working out bad nicks and prepping new chisels. I even use it for the final honing on my beater chisels. I also wanted to incorporate a Wolverine sharpening jig that I have had around for a bunch of years, but never got around to mounting it. The lathe tool sharpening holder presented a problem because it is over two feet long. The grinder and buffer would barely fit in the 34", so I had to figure something out there. There was no way I could get the buffer, grinder and Worksharp in a straight line. After thinking about it for awhile I came up with an answer. (Ever wake up in the middle of the night with an "Ah, ha!" moment?) I decided to go vertical with some of the mounting. First, I built a lower cabinet with drawers sized to fit the stuff that was to go in it, especially one drawer that would hold my Forstner bit set that I got from Woodcraft - good set by the way. It is just a standard cabinet made with gray melamine sides, top and fronts. I used plywood for the bottom as it was going to hold quite a bit of weight. Dado joints on the vertical sides transfer the weight from the cabinet to the bottom and thus the casters. Here is a picture of the bottom: It is just a basic cabinet with ball bearing drawer slides. I used strips of oak I had laying around to trim the edges. The drawer pulls are from a batch my wife bought me for Christmas - They are one one fancy thing in my shop - matching drawer pulls. All of the drawer are just butt joints with glue and brads. The fronts are screwed on. Nothing fancy, very utilitarian. Then I added a top on it to hold the equipment. I mounted the grinder and Worksharp on the top of the bottom section and the buffer on the upright I added. Hidden behind the Worksharp is a Wen drill sharpener I inherited from my father. Here is the finished product: I did have one problem. I originally used some light duty casters from Grizzley. They were rated at 75 lbs each. If you look carefully, the front left caster had failed. I replaced them with this caster from Home Depot. I have gotten to really like these. They hold a lot of weight without flattening or failing. So that is the story of the first step. I am happy with the cabinet and its functions.
  36. 7 points
    So, this happened today... Boy has been begging to go fishing for a while, so I finally took a vacation day, and we went to a quiet lake in the Natchez Trace state park. Caught several red-eared sunfish, one largemouth bass, 3 striped somethings I don't recognize, and one blue catfish. Any day a fish is caught is a good day of fishing. And any day fishing is better than a day at work.
  37. 7 points
    I was out clipping the pastures until dark last night, and this Sunset was pretty spectacular. I wish I'd had a good camera with me, but this is a phone picture. I guess I need to upgrade my phone. The house is in that grove of trees on the other side of the barn.
  38. 7 points
    LOL that's funny we smoked some ribs and had DQ as well One of our huskys, Meeka sporting her patriotic eye wear
  39. 7 points
    Moving day! Yesterday was packing and loading from 8a-8p and then driving the truck 8:30p-2a. Up again at 6:30 to get out the essentials for the kids. We’ll relax today and then unload everything tomorrow.
  40. 7 points
    There are four parts to the drawer build: the drawer size and design, the drawer case, fitting the drawer case, and the drawer. Part 1 described the drawer size and design, and the apron of the drawer case. Part 2 describes the rest. We ended Part 1 here. That is the apron and opening to the drawer case .. This is where the build ended ... The drawer case and its fitting I scratched my head for a week how to do this. How to get the case to support drawer blades. I did not want a heavy, complicated arrangement, one which ran the danger of protruding below the table and might be seen at a distance. It needed to be lean and mean. To be elegant. A design to be appreciated by myself and you. This is what I came up with .. The case sides were grooved 3mm (1/8") ... .. and matched with a rebated section which would form the 6mm (~1/4") thick drawer blade ... The thickness of each blade is the same as the depth of the lip on the drawer front (which doubles as a drawer pull). This depth is significant. The reason for the rebate arrangement is to get the blade as low as possible on the case side. Recall that the front of the blade acts as a drawer stop as well, and must be coplanar with the lower edge of the drawer lip. The side/blades are fitted to the rear of the apron with a mortice-and-tenon joint ... This was definitely a tricky joint to do and it needed to be precisely positioned so that the entry lined up with the sides ... precisely! Here is what it would look like with the drawer front inserted ... To aid with alignment, I made a MDF pattern ... Here's the fun bit - aligning the case with the front and rear aprons, to mark out the rear mortices ... The pattern is inserted and a straight edge is attached to the front apron to prevent flexing ... A lot of repeat measurements are taken on the rear apron before I am satisfied it is square and equal front-and-back. This is the result ... By-the-way, note the biscuit joiner-made slots for attaching the table top. The drawer The drawer build was fairly straight forward. The usual half-blind fronts and through dovetail rears. Transferring tails to pins on the Moxon ... The sides were grooved rather than using slips. This was to save the extra 3mm height needed for the slips (saving as much height as possible for inside the drawer). 3mm grooves .. Matching groove in the drawer front ... Below is the stage of glueing up the drawer carcase. You know that it is all coplanar and square (essential for a piston fit) when the dovetail at each end just drop neatly into the matching sockets ... The 6mm thick drawer bottom receives a 3mm rebate. This was made with a moving fillester, and then fine-tuned with a shoulder plane ... The drawer fits well and needs minimal tuning. Got to use the newly-made drawer-planing fixture ... Two items added: a very fine chamfer to the top of the drawer front, to prevent binding when the drawer is closed. And a stretcher across the tops of the drawer sides, prevent the drawer tipping ... This aids in achieving near-full extension ... The end Regards from Perth Derek
  41. 7 points
    Gosh this page is just pure tool porn. I can't look any more! I haven't bought much lately in woodworking tools but did get this nice chronograph for measuring bullet speed.
  42. 6 points
    First up today I knocked out the last three cloth picture frames With these complete the exercise room is done! Just a few items in the bar and bath left... After reading the mastic instructions I decided the quickest and easiest thing to do re the metal bar top mounts was run get a piece of 1/4" drywall and go over them Then I started to tile I ended up getting a 4 1/2" diamond blade for my grinder and with the use of some scrap poplar and 2 clamps I was able to cut what I needed. Again it was the cheapest way to accomplish what I need which was just a few cuts. In a couple days I'll grout it and that will be one more thing of the list.
  43. 6 points
    Made some good headway on this in the past week. First up was to mark the curves on the sides assemblies, cut the curves, and then clean up the band saw cut. I'm not sure if I've posted the trick I use for walnut. I start by marking out what i need in pencil, using a bit more pressure to get a heavier line but also put down a heavier mark. After marking the heavy mark with a regular pencil I go over the whole line with a white charcoal pencil. I think Marc talked about options for walnut once but finding the pens he talked about recently was difficult. I find this method works really well. I do the same thing for cut lines if the wood is extra dark as well. I feel it gives me a great balance of precision and visibility and ease of marking. After marked out I cut to the line at the band saw. Visibility at the band saw is important, band saws seem like they are difficult to light well. Cleanup was done with a spoke shave at the bench. For some reason my shave was chattering real bad on this walnut. I stopped half way through and sharpened the shave but that didn't make any difference. I'm not sure if the width of the material has an impact on that or not. In the end i got everything cleaned up and removed the chatter marks with a card scraper. After all the curves were cut and cleaned up on the sides, the sides got assembled. After assembling the sides i started working on the back side of the sideboard. I wanted to make a back but didn't want to have to deal with making panels and dealing with wood movement. So i decided to go for plywood. To mount the plywood i created a rabbet on the back pieces and will fill in the panels with ply at a later time. I wasn't overly concerned with the exact rabbet size but was shooting for 3/16". Any more than that may have caused interference with joinery. To set my fence i cut 2 pieces at 3/16" thick and used them as spacers to set the fence. Then I just router the rabbets in. Skipping where the vertical braces go. And a dry assembled picture for some clarity. After this is done i need to work on assembling some sub assemblies. This is goign to be far too complicated to try and glue together all in 1 go. I should be able to break it into 4-5 sub assemblies that I then glue together. This is going quick. I'm excited to get started on the doors and drawers.
  44. 6 points
    This is an EXCELLENT question. The reason you do a twin tenon is for more long grain to long grain glue area. In the image below on the leg the left and right are the bottom and top of the leg and mortise respectively. The grain is running left and right. If i put a traditional tenon on this piece it'd be something like 1/2" thick and 1" wide and 1" long. This would give me 1 sq inch of glue area (1/2 sq inch per face) In the picture below here you can see that with the tenons arranged in the twin orientation i was able to make 2 3/8" x 3/4" x 1" tenons which gave me 3 sq inches of glue area or roughly 3x more. With most adhesives glue area is one of the more important factors in making a strong connection. A traditional tenon would probably work in this situation but why risk it? The twin is no harder than a single.
  45. 6 points
    I bought my first pickup at age 14, haven't been without one since. I don't know how you stand it.
  46. 6 points
    I had a languishing gift certificate for Woodcraft to use. I really couldn't find anything I needed, but this was on sale. Seemed like it might come in useful.
  47. 6 points
    Not today, but the past couple of days, I've been working on the beach. We have a sandy beach again, and a fairly large swimming area with a sandy bottom. I've pulled up the grass on the part you can see past the nearest part, that still needs work. Still probably a couple of more days work to do on it. I have the whole point under seed, and straw, but we've only had a teasing of rain for the past three weeks. The Bermuda has sprouted almost everywhere, but is waiting for a good soaking before it will do anything more. I ended up getting about double the amount of straw I needed, so now have a half load (up under the tarp on the trailer, up the hill in the picture) to get rid of. Next plan is to build a fancy, timber framed boathouse, and dock. The dock won't be timber framed, of course, but will be adjoining the boathouse. No plans yet, and deciding how big we want to build it. Normally limited in size, but if I deed a boatslip to other land, we can really add as many lifts as we want. I'm thinking four boat lifts, and four jetski lifts. It's limited to 16' in height, but I want to design it so that any boats, or skiis, can be lifted up under the roof, out of sight as much as possible. Also want a Cypress shingle roof with curved hips. I don't care how long it takes me to build it. Probably going to get a sawmill for the project too.
  48. 6 points
  49. 6 points
    Step 3 of my reorganization required me to make a new cart for my planer that has storage in it to hold the setting gauge and spare blades for the planner. My planner is a Delta 22-650 13" 2 HP cast iron planer that they sold as a "benchtop" planer, but it is a seriously heavy beast that does a very good job of planing. I bought the planer back around 1982. The choices back then were this planer, the original Makita bench top unit or big floor mount planers that cost a bundle, even for a 12" planer. So I went with this one and haven't regretted it. Someday, I am going to fit it with a helical head. My original stand for it was built out of 2x4 stock and actually was pretty good, except for two issues. One, it was too short. I had to bend down to run something through it, which got hard on my back after awhile, especially if it was heavy 8/4 stock. Two, it didn't have any storage and the way I made it, which, while really sturdy, wasn't conducive to adding drawers big enough to handle knives and such. Because this planer is so heavy, I decided to make it out of hard maple, with mortise and tenon joinery. The casters I picked up for it are 6" urethane units rated at 375 lbs each, which gives a total of 1500 lbs - serious overkill, but they would allow the stand to roll over obstacles in my shop without tipping the stand over or the wheels going flat from standing in one place over time. The only bad part is that they don't lock, so I will have to use wheel chocks, especially if I move it into my driveway. It is on a slant and more than once I have had to chase a tool when it started rolling on its own. I started with a base made from 4" wide 8/4 stock with half lap joints at the corners. With the casters clamping though the joints and plenty of glue, the joints aren't going to fail. I routed the mortises for the uprights and got a reminder which way the bit drags the router on the first one. I usually use a hollow chisel mortiser, but didn't have a big enough chisel and bit. I also drilled the holes for the casters, as one of the bolts would be under one of the uprights and needed to be installed before glue-up. I also fabricated the upper ring in a similar fashion. Next I cut the tenons on the uprights on my tablesaw and fit them to the mortises. The uprights are a bit of overkill, but I wanted to make sure they didn't rack. With the large tenons and the extra width and thickness of the uprights, they should be plenty strong. Fin Finally, I glued the base together and bolted the casters in place . The last step in fabricating the stand was to install the drawers and bottom. I chose to install two drawers (not that much to store for a planer!). I enclosed the sides and back with gray 3/4" melamine MDF to match my other cabinets and the planer. I fab'ed two drawers from 1/2" baltic birch sides and 1/4" baltic birch bottoms. Butt joints and brads were my exotic joinery for the drawers. The drawer fronts are screwed on and I added the two pulls that match the rest of my cabinets. Three coats of Sealcoat shellac sprayed from a can I wanted to get rid of finished the maple parts. That completed the stand. In this picture, you can see my planer on the old stand in the background. The last and hardest step was to get the planer bolted on top. I got my son and grandson to help me lift it on. That planer has to weight something like 250 lbs! It is a back buster. We set it on the stand. I removed the drawers and reached under to mark the bolt hole locations, then rotated the planer 45 degrees so I could drill the holes. There was no way I was going to remove and replace that beast. After twisting the planer back in place, I installed the bolts and that finished that up. The bed of the planer ended up at about 30" from the floor, which is just about where I wanted it. It is oriented the way it is so that I will be able to get into the drawers when it is in its final location. I had to clean the planer up. A couple of years of sitting behind a lumber pile, plus some visits from the resident mouse family left it covered in dust and the cast iron table with a thin film of rust. I wiped everything down with mineral spirits. I decided to try some CRC 3-36 that Fine Woodworking recommended as a rust preventative from one of their tests. Turns out that Home Depot carries it. It is also a penetrating lube, so I sprayed the table down with it and remove the rust film and spots with some Scotchbrite pads and resprayed with the CRC lube. Worked well for that part and I haven't seen any signs of rust on it since. If you look on the left side of the planer, you will see a chip collection gadget I fab'ed up. This planer didn't come with a dust scoop and by the time I had a dust collector, they no longer sold them, so I made this out of 1/2" baltic birch scraps. \When I first built it, the hose came straight out of it and, while it worked pretty well, I was always fighting with the hose. So I changed out the hose fitting with a flanged elbow and that solved the problem. It's not very pretty, but it works pretty well, only missing a tiny bit from each board. One thing that I really don't like about my current shop is that I have to unbury the jointer and planer to use them, so I tend to not use them very much. I have this good gear, but because it is such a pain to get it out, I tend to not bother. With the new shop layout, both will have a permanent place and will be connected to the dust system. Since I have an automatic starter for my DC that turns it on anytime I start a dust producing power tool, all I'll have to do is open the blast gate to use a tool. I intend to locate the gates so they are easy to get to. If anyone wants to see how the automatic start gadget is connected and how it works, check out the August, 2000 issue of Fine Woodworking, page 66. It paid for my dust collection system. Next up are some storage improvements. Thanks for following this.
  50. 6 points
    I married up too. I think it's the only way to go (if you can manage it). My wife is so much better at so many things than I am that it is a humbling experience and lessons learned every day. She's away for a few days, camping with her son and g-daughter, and it's all I can do to hold the place together until she gets back and takes care of me again.