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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/17/19 in all areas

  1. 14 points
    Finally home from a long work road trip! Had some catching up to do! A few projects to get done that have been piling up! Only the bathroom vanity was done for YouTube.. 1. Table Lazy Susan and a cutting board for 2 different clients.. 2. A thread storage cabinet for my wife's quilting room 3. Bathroom Vanity for a client. 4. And, a floating picture frame for a family member..
  2. 9 points
    All the slats for the back rest are glued up. There was more spring back in these then the arms but I new that was going to be the case going in because Marc talked about it in the videos. So just to keep that to a minimum I left each on in the clamp-up over night. I got the leg that I buggered up re-done and then cut the pyramids on the top of each. Then I did the same on the front chair legs with the thru mortise and tenon. Left arm. Right arm Next up I have to make the jig for cutting the tenons on the back slats. Getting close to a glue up or two.
  3. 6 points
    Here are a few .I had a young Amish man and his boys build the doors for me. 13 solid doors were more than I could handle. A local Mennonite and his daughter did my kitchen. I'm working on the staircase presently and hope to have it done before December 6 when I have both knees replaced. 31 windows also got trimmed in QSWO. Still looking for that curly QSWO for some furniture I plan to build when I get back on my feet.
  4. 5 points
    So I've been a bit behind on getting this completely finished. Between work, home repairs, and kids, I'm just getting to finishing all of the holders. I'm not sure I agree with the advice to finish them all at the end, since removing them all and keeping track of the screws was a pain. I'll post final pictures after I get everything reinstalled and take some beauty shots. On the plus side, even though I haven't gotten to my lathe stand alterations, it's making a great drying rack . I think my next project is going to be cutting down the length of its stand a few inches, then adding plywood shelves and storage to it. It's about 6 inches too long to fit in the only spot I have to park it.
  5. 5 points
    Not much downside, really. If I did it over I'd be tempted to put it about 3-4" from the floor for toes. I figure I'll end up doing something to organize under mine eventually. I'm following Marc's storage project, although I'm not sure if I want something that permanent. I store stuff under the roubo, but I also lose stuff under there too. There were two squares buried in shavings under it. One of the most useful additions I made for storage was to put a row of hooks under the overhang. It gives a good place for the things you need constantly, like a hand broom or mallet. It doesn't interfere at all under there. I also plan to add a couple 3/4" holes going left to right through the leg for storing taller 3/4" accessories like the Veritas surface clamp I use in the dead man.
  6. 4 points
    As many of you know, I travel for work. One of the perks of that travel is getting to visit other people and shops around the country. I was recently in New Mexico for work and Mick was gracious enough to invite me to his shop. I shot a video of the tour and thought I'd post it here for you guys. Huge thanks to Mick for the tour and the hospitality! Hopefully one day I can return the favor!
  7. 4 points
    Not a huge update here. I've mostly been playing with patterns and trying to figure out some of the tricky aspects this build is going to present. I did a second sculpting of a seat and it turned out better than the first. Talking with Bmac I determined that I was trying to create too steep of a slope on the back edge of the seat and it was causing me to dig in a bit too much. I also approached the power carving a bit differently. All in all things worked out much better but i need to do more testing so i can get each seat more uniform. One of the key things stressed by Bmac is to do pre-carving. In the image above you can see the outline for the seat. This goes to the band saw and gets cut out. The pommel area also gets shaped at the band saw cutting on an angle. The boards just right of center get traced and cut after the center. The outside boards I shaped free hand with the band saw but after talking to Bmac he mentioned power carving them before gluing the seat up. I can see how this would be a big benefit and I'm going to try that on my next seat and cover this in more detail. I got the cherry for this project last week and have it acclimated and stacked in the shop. While I've been working on the Roubo I've also been cutting out and shaping the templates for the chairs. I printed details from my cad drawing to scale at work. I had to stitch together 11x17 sheets to get the sizes i need. After i got them all stitched together I secured them to some 1/4" ply with spray adhesive. I won't be using these for template routing, well maybe. I might make some template sleds, or I might just use them to trace lines, cut to the line on the band saw and shape with hand tools. Not sure. With some of the sharper curves I'm probably goign to have to do the template routing method. These will for sure help me determine grain layout on project parts.
  8. 3 points
  9. 3 points
    Very simple jig from one of the trade rags. I’ll post other pics when I get to a computer. This was simple enough to make and surpassed any requirement I might’ve had for tablesaw alignment on both planes.
  10. 3 points
  11. 3 points
    I bought some stereo equipment for my shop so, I built a wall cabinet for said equipment I wanted the doors to have some clear panels so the remotes would work. I didn't want to make a dado for the glass panel so, I made some applied molding to hold the glass to inside of the doors the molding was very thin and narrow so brads would split the molding. My solution was use dowels and the dowels I used were tooth picks they worked great and, looked clean once cut flush and sanded it looked like wood-filler-ed ( is that even a word?) brad holes. The trim was so small and thin I used my chamfer cutters we used them when building concrete forms they worked very well better than expected. When gluing up the tooth pick dowels I cut the pointy end off one side and used the pointy end that remained it worked great for getting glue into the hole. I just thought I'd share
  12. 2 points
    Yeah so I'm supposed to be working on dining chairs. My excuse was I needed to get material before i could progress on the project but in reality I really wanted to make something for my shop. So while i waited for a chance to get a lumber order into my schedule I grabbed a bunch of the 8/4 cherry i got a good deal on.Why cherry? Because everyone does maple and I want to do something different.. ( I also got the cherry for a steal. I didn't want to be wasteful with the lumber and the boards I had were odd widths. Everything was 7-7/8" wide which is frustrating. So i ripped half the boards I needed with 1 extra. I then took the too narrow boards and proceeded to make them wider. This is a bench not a piece of furniture so if some glue seams show up on end grain so be it. Odds are it's not going to be noticeable. The boards I laminated to get the needed thickness were placed towards the center. I also had some boards with heavy wane. I made sure that I coordinated them within the slab and used them as the picture below shows better than I can explain. Yep there is a big void in the center of my bench towards the bottom. Do I care? Heck no! it's going to be buried inside the bench never to be seen what does it matter? One of the boards had some really awesome figure. So I pulled one piece of that board out to make it the front laminate. The 2nd board was used as the show face of the rear slab. The board for the rear slab was a tiny bit thin so there is a piece laminated to the bottom. I tried to grain match it some and get a similar color board. In the end it's hard to tell and I'm happy with it. After lots of milling and emptying this thing twice, I got al the material for the slabs milled and together. I even used cherry dominoes for alignment. I used Marc's hit and miss planing method to somewhat straiten the boards. This worked well and left me a LOT more material than he ended up with. I was able to do my rear slab with 6 pieces instead of 7 and my front is 4 pieces with a random stick of 3/4" thrown in for some extra width. While gluing the slabs together I was worried i was going to induce a bow. These boards were NOT strait at this point. I rotated them to offset as much as possible but in the end the chance that the slabs would be strait is low. SO i stacked the deck in my favor. Bent lamination uses a form to hold a curve the opposite can also be done. So i grabbed the front laminate strip and jointed it perfectly strait. I then rotated it and clamped it along both slabs during glue up and this will ensure that the side is strait and because all the boards are an even thickness everything is parallel. In practice this worked just as well as in theory. My 52" veritas strait edge confirmed that these guys are laser strait. I used some winding sticks and confirmed that they were free of twist. Holy !!!!! These things are heavy! Next up is end cap and the mortise and stuff. I trimed the front slab to length and then cut the tenon. I glued up some walnut that I scored of C_list a while ago for cheap. This stuff was some guys shorts, and were like 18" long and perfect for this. The color ended up being surprisingly beautiful. I cut the mortise in the end cap easy peasy. I extended the mortise and am setting my bench up to be able to come apart. I don't have the BC hardware yet and will probably use this bench for a while before I buy the tail vise. I'll buy the leg vise prior to completing the bench. So I drilled the holes in the end cap and am using some 6" long spax screws to attach it to the front slab. Now the first big OH !@$(%! moment happens. I realized I drilled the internal hole with a 1-3/8" forstner bit instead of a 1-1/2" bit. So taking a breath I grabbed a block of walnut because it's what i had sitting in the scrap bin. I drilled a hole all the way through like 1/16", this is the guide for the forstner bits. I drilled one side with the 1-3/8" bit and the other with the 1-1/2" bit. I used the smaller bit to line up the block on the outside of the bench. I fed it through the inside as seen below. Once i had the block lined up on the outside I used the 1-1/2" bit to drill the rest of the way through the guide block and into the end cap. After I got a good way into the end cap i took everything apart and finished the hole on the drill press to make sure that it was strait. Next is the dog hole strip. After reading the part on this. I decided my time was worth more than the cool factor of square dogs. So I glued up three 3/4" pieces and made the dog hole strip. To get everything lined up I ran dominoes through all 3 laminations and into the bench. The dominoes were 65mm long and this worked flawlessly. So here we sit. As i work through this I'll hit periods where glue needs to dry. I"m going to take that time to work on the templates for the dining chairs and get the bent lamination mold for the back rest started. This walnut color is going to look awesome with finish.
  13. 2 points
    I find it better to keep a long-ish steel rule at the saw, and use it rather than a tape for setting the fence. No variation, always the same rule. And of course, transfering dimensions from the work directly is always tighter than reading a rule. Please, make a habit of unplugging the machine for any operation that requires touching the blade, or sticking a steel rule into it. Switches , especially the non-magnetic kind, sometimes fail or get actuated by accident. Murphy's law dictates your fingers are likely to be in the blade whenever that happens.
  14. 2 points
    One thing I'd suggest is, get some overhead lighting. Shadows create errors .
  15. 2 points
    We seem to attract storms but the tiger maple is well protected!
  16. 2 points
    Thats a great looking start. Trying to add a new technique or new tool to each project is a good way to grow your skills.
  17. 2 points
    Much easier method to get a perfect fit.
  18. 2 points
    Correct. Of course they will be once I add glue. I kind of got the idea from Mick. I couldn't figure out another way to do it at least on the table saw because the leg tenon isn't centered on the leg, it is offset.
  19. 2 points
    The pyramids for the stool were cut on the table saw with the blade set at 15 degrees and then sanded in the direction of the grain on all four surfaces using my good ol' prepin weapon sanding blocks, went 120, 150, 180 then with just a small piece of 320 to finish it off. For the chair arms I milled up a piece of stock about 8 inches long. The 8 inches was just to give me enough to work with when cutting it and then holding it in the vise to sand and in case I messed up on my first try. I ran it through the drum sander until I had the perfect fit in the arm mortise. Then I cut a pyramid on each end and sanded it that same way as before. I cut a 1/4 inch of the top of the existing tenon on the front legs. Then I cut the pyramid at a length that would fit down onto the top of the leg tenon. I sanded the bottom of the pyramids until I had an exposure that I was happy with. I will glue the pyramids in after the chair is all assembled.
  20. 2 points
  21. 2 points
    I didn't think of the feet thing. I placed a board under my current bench that will stop my toes from going under, lets see if it bothers me. If any one things of anything else let me know. As i see it, lowering the shelf just provides less space to store wood shavings and sawdust.
  22. 2 points
    If we just had Cousin Dave in that pic. That would be a crew!
  23. 2 points
    From left to right: Gary, Cody, Rickey, Me, Coop, and Ross, Cody's dad. What a crew.
  24. 2 points
    Heres my shot of our group with the Birthing Tree. We are standing a good fifteen feet in front of the tree so you can get a decent idea of how big that thing is.
  25. 2 points
    I liked Marc's breadbox build very much. Alison liked most of it. We compromised and below is the result. Air-dried walnut with ambrosia maple door and drawer, with ebony pulls.
  26. 1 point
    In July, I posted a router-based method I used to remove the waste from hand cut hand-blind sockets (link). This involved orientating the boards vertically and routing into the end grain. This necessitated a rather clumsy piece of work-holding - which, as I explained at the time, was difficult to avoid as the end grain was not square to the sides, as is usual with drawer front. The bow fronted drawers created ends which were angled.With the usual square drawer fronts, both Bill and Roger on the forum preferred to place their boards flat on the bench and rest the router on the edge. Roger's photos ...However, this method leaves is too much waste remaining at the sides of the socket - as this is angled and the router bit is vertical - which means that there is more work needed to clear ...Bill's objection - that holding the work piece vertically looked too clumsy for easy work - continued to ring in my head. The horizontal method certainly had the advantage of being more stable. So, now that my then-current project, the Harlequin Table, is complete, between pieces I take some time to solve these problems. Which I have, and hopefully in a way that others will find helpful.Just as an aside, my preference is hand tool work, and generally if the wood is willing this is my go-to. The method here is not to replace all hand work, but to make the process easier in particular circumstances. Some of the timbers I work, especially for cases and drawer fronts, are extremely hard, and it is not viable to chop them out, particularly when there are several to do. It is not simply that this is time consuming - after all, this is just my hobby - but that it is hard on the chisels. I use machines to compliment hand tools. There is a time and place for everything.Let's take it from the beginning:Step 1: saw the pins ...Step 2: deepen the kerfs with (in my case) a kerfing chisel (see my website for more info) ...Now we come to the new jig. I must tell you that this did my head in for a long time. As with everything, there is a simple solution, and in the end it could not have been simpler!The need is (1) quick and easy set up, (2) accurate routing leaving minimal waste, and (3) visibility and dust control (bloody machines!).The jigThis turned out to be nothing more than a block of wood. This one is 16"/440mm long x 4"/100mm high and 2"/50mm wide.I used MicroJig clamps, which slide along a sliding dovetail. This is not necessary; one can just use a couple of F-clamps. However the MicroJig clamps not only make work holding less finicky, but they extend the length of the board one can hold with this particular jig to 500mm. That is easily enough for most case widths.To use, place face down on a flat surface and clamp the drawer front close to centre ...Up end the combination, and place the end of the drawer front into your vise. This could be a face vise or, as here, a Moxon vise. Note that the image is taken from the rear of the vise ...This is what you will see when standing in front of the jig/vise ...Let's talk about the router.This is a Makita RT0700C trim router. Fantastic little router: 1 hp, variable speed, soft start. Together with a Mirka 27mm antistatic dust hose, the dust collection is amazing! The photo shown is after use, and there is no dust to be found (I very much doubt that a small plunge router could remain this clean). That also means that visibility is good, even though it does not have a built-in light. There are other excellent trim routers around for much the same price. This is the one I use.The baseThe base is the other half of the jig. This made from 6mm perspex. This is not the strongest, but does the job. I plan to build another out of polycarbonite (Lexan), which is much tougher.There is just the single handle as the left hand will grip the dust outlet.Below is the rear of the base. Note the adjustable fence/depth stop ...This is the underside ...Plans for anyone looking to make their own ...Setting upStep 1: set the depth of cut - I scribed marks on the fence for two drawer side thickness I use. Mostly I use 6mm (or 1/4"). The other is 10mm, which is used here. I shall make another, deeper fence, so that I can add a few other thicknesses, such as 19mm for case sides.Step 2: set the cut to the boundary line - this is done as close as possible. In the end I want to leave about 1mm to clear with a chisel (this is such an important line that I am not willing to take a risk here). If you move the bit side-to-side, the scratch pattern will show where it is cutting ...The resultThe router bit is 5/32" carbide. It is very controllable, and this makes it possible to freehand close to the side kerfs. The fence/depth stop prevents over-cutting the boundary line. In 15 seconds, this is the result ...Turn the board around to chisel out the waste ..Order of waste removalFirst lever away the sides. The waste here is paper thin and breaks away ...Secondly, place a wide chisel in the scribed boundary line, and chop straight down ...Finally, use a fishtail chisel into the corners to remove this ...A note: removing the waste this cleanly and easily was facilitated by using the kerfing chisel to ensure that there was a release cut at the sides of the socket.Regards from PerthDerek
  27. 1 point
    Great video Kev!! Thanks for taking us along. Mick what an awesome space I love all the natural light and the setting you get to work in is amazing! A couple questions: 1. What do you think of the short aux table on the A3/41? I have thought about buying that for my A3/31 but never pulled the trigger. 2. What is the jig hanging high on the wall between the sander and the bandsaw @ about 11:54?
  28. 1 point
    Thinking table top with metal legs... really see what happens when I get them milled out.
  29. 1 point
    I think, I could hide from my wife in that house! Looks great!
  30. 1 point
    Big question. Out of square to the table, or out of square to the blade? Are the runner grooves parallel to the blade? Each answer leads down a slightly different path.
  31. 1 point
    SS on aluminum, I wonder if that body isn't going to wear down over time and lose it's ability to lock or lose it's square. I'd never make a tool like that out of aluminum, At first I was hoping they were red stainless or something.
  32. 1 point
    Joint one edge before ripping and use a feather board to hold your work firmly against the fence.
  33. 1 point
    If you aren't familiar with forstner bit operation, I recently discovered that deep holes must be cleared of chips very frequently. Otherwise, the chips pack in behind the flute head and jam the bit like a wedge. Bad enough to require digging it out...
  34. 1 point
    Just let us know when your ready to buy that new drill press. We'll help you spend your money; we excel at it.
  35. 1 point
    I'll bet that tree was shaking in it's roots with that bunch so close by, well done gentlemen!
  36. 1 point
    Wow, sounds like there's a lot of hidden costs to these statues...
  37. 1 point
    I believe these were oak, they’re really court benches in virginia somewhere. Not sure I have completed photos. I think I started and sent these to another department to complete after finish
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    Check out this Ambrosia Maple bowl that Gary turned.
  40. 1 point
    As mentioned, there many books out there that are worth buying. One that I've found helpful is New Woodworker Handbook by Tom Hintz, https://www.amazon.com/New-Woodworker-Handbook-Spending-Working/dp/1565232976/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=tom+hintz&qid=1570302356&sr=8-2
  41. 1 point
    Be careful what you 'almost' wish for. I certainly did not have long to wait.
  42. 1 point
    I got my new acquisitions hung up in the measurement section. I was especially happy with the holder for the center finder. It's heavy and sharp, so I wanted to make sure it couldn't go anywhere. I think I'll have to stop putting off doing the last finishing and other small touches. I do still have another drawer to make, but it can wait. I also got a new addition to the shop last night. My dad had an older lathe that he hasn't used in a long time, so I managed to cram it in my hatchback and drive it home. It needs a little clean up and some new wiring, but otherwise it's in good shape.
  43. 1 point
    My wife requested a side table for the family room. This will be situated between two arm chairs, and replace the small table (which is too high and dominating) ... Not just a side table, but it also needed to house her needlework thingies. In other words, shallow drawers for cotton reels and sewing kit. I played around with several ideas, and eventually came up with a design that borrows a little from a piece I recently made. Lynndy liked the softness of the rounded dovetails and overall dimension of this coffee table I built some months back for a nephew ... The plan (looking down) would be to create a curved front and back, with round, splayed legs to the outside (an alternative is a straight, tapered round leg) ... In contrast to the Jarrah in that piece, the carcase will be built in Hard Maple, dovetailed and mitred at each corner. It will feature 8 drawers. All drawer fronts will curve as well. The reason for "Harlequin" in the title is that the drawers will be a mix of woods, as depicted in the elevation of the drawer section ... A harlequin design is often thought of as a diamond pattern, but does also include a rectangular checkerboard. Anyway, it's just a name, and I like giving my pieces a name At this stage I have chosen for the drawer fronts Black Walnut and Blue Gum. I may also add in Hard Maple. Always interested in your thoughts here. The Blue Gum is lighter than the Black Walnut and is a good foil against the Hard Maple … The legs will taper and curve from the carcase, attached with a loose mortice and tenon ... The sides and top were arranged so that the grain flowed continuously. The carcase is 20mm thick, 800mm long and 350 at the wide, centre point .. The initial dovetail plan was to keep the boards parallel and saw the curves later. It became apparent when joining the first set that this would not work ... .. there would be too much at the sides to mitre, and so I decided to shape the top and bottom panels at this stage rather than later. This was the first opportunity to use the modification I made to my Moxon vise (see article: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/NewMoxonMods.html). It now enables the pin- and tail boards to be clamped together to aid in marking out (see earlier photo). In marking out for mitred corners, the side tails are not sawn out from the front ... ... the board is reversed, and the mitres are marked ... ... and sawn ... The reason I had wanted to retain square carcase sides was that it would make it easier to square the chisel guide for the mitres. I got around this by squaring them to the front of the carcase ... The pin board is seen here ... One of the difficulties in fitting this many tails and pins is that any slight errors are magnified. The fit below illustrates that the left side is too tight ... To deal with this, the tails were given a pencil scribbling ... Fitting the board together left this behind ... This process needed to be done once more, before the fit was satisfactory ... The four sides were dry fitted together, and the front and rear upper and lower panels planed to shape (this was close but not enough) … All is coplanar … Where we are up to at the end of today … One set of mitred corners … … and the other … Next up is building the internal dividers for the drawers. Regards from Perth Derek
  44. 1 point
    I had emailed him a few months back and he was really busy with his business and a personal matter that he didn't share.
  45. 1 point
    Meh.... everyone should just invest their time / money into the tools / technology they want to use and enjoy the fruits of their labors.
  46. 1 point
    Quite a bit different when i have to figure out how to do it in my shop, vs downloading a design off of a website that is making money off of intellectual property theft. I'd say you have an argument but you don't because it's been well established, with the illegal downloading of movies and music, that If someone hosts it and makes money off it through ads, they are still guilty. Open source and copyleft are great if you want to work your entire life and never get a paycheck (I'm exaggerating here). I don't have a problem with that at all and support the open source community as I'm a heavy Linux user. My issue is when you TAKE my design and post it on a platform that makes money giving it away to people. Especially when that VIOLATES my patent/copyright. It's clear that you don't care if people steal your intellectual property but a lot of people do care. Do i like the patent system, no not entirely but i live with it because it's the LAW. Wood waste would be huge and potential for part failure would be high. 3D printing is ugly, no way around that. You weren't woodworking in an efficient manner then. My Waste per board is very low. Board selection and part layout is critical. I cut the part out before i surface it and have little waste as "The fastest way to joint and flatten a board is with a saw". I use a band saw to cut parts where my kerf is 1/32" I don't recall ever seeing a router bit that small that can handle cnc machining. If i have to do all the perp work to get the board on the CNC i might as well just finish it with regular tools faster.
  47. 1 point
    I bought it off Thingverse. But as stated you have a perfect retreat in saying a better 3D printer makes better things. I'm sure it does. As I stated, I purchased the knockoff for a laugh. And "works perfectly" is surely subjective as you claim to lack the ability to purchase the actual tool. Couple things here to address. I absolutely do have an issue with the theft of IP. I don't care if the thing is made from plastic or gold. You can't get one in Europe... I know for a fact that you can. If you haven't put the effort in then you have another loophole for your theft. Are any of us? Really... Taking the tone that you have in this thread shows that you are not willing to have your mind changed on any of this. I was referring to the radius jig. And for the record, these have been around long before Woodpecker started making them of shiny red aluminum.
  48. 1 point
    I'll confess that I didn't read 100% of the posts above but probably enough to get the flow. I built a CNC router about 3 years ago and may have posted the build here (I don't recall, sorry). The main thing I cut with it is Longworth chucks that we sell on Etsy (we've cut almost 200 of them in the last 18 months). But the CNC is just another tool in the shop to me; I turn it on, cut something, turn it off and move on to the next step. What's nice about it is the repeatability and accuracy. If I can cut something on the bandsaw faster than using Fusion 360 for CAD/CAM and then cutting a piece on the CNC then the bandsaw gets used. But if that same part is one that I'll need a dozen more of over the next month then the CNC gets the job - it just depends but in the end it's just another tool in the shop. We don't (yet) have a 3D printer but I have looked at several. A good friend has two 3D printers so I don't need one right now because he'll print anything I need. The acoustic guitar, and related forms/fixtures/jigs I built last year, could have been helped by the CNC but I only used it for a small portion of cutting the bridge. The rest was completely by hand and I do a lot of hand work on a fair number of jobs/projects every week. And actually, the reason I built the CNC is to cut forms, fixtures, jigs, and templates for building acoustic guitars but I have yet to do any of that with the CNC. When I started woodworking about 45 years ago I used a handsaw. When I got a circular saw the handsaw gathered dust unless the circular saw couldn't do the job. When I got a table saw the circular saw got put away. But it is still used to break down Baltic Birch sheets for the Longworth chucks because it's the best tool for that task in our shop (no room to handle a 5x5 sheet on the table saw). Cuts that I would have done on the bandsaw a few years ago might today go to the CNC. They're all just tools and I use what makes sense for the job because I have them and they each handle the job for which they were designed. My $0.02 David
  49. 1 point
    I'd like to toss a bucket of cold water onto the idea that 3D prints or CNC routing jobs a 'set and forget' operations after the design is finalized. By my estimate, at least 20% of such jobs I have personally witnessed, or seen discussed by other makers on the interwebs, fail before completion. Tangled filiment, clogged nozzles, broken bits, all result in extensive waste and lost time if your don't monitor the job continuously. Murphy's law is fully enforced - if you aren't watching, anything that CAN go wrong probably will. Counterpoint, if I screw up a cut or break a tool, I can recover right away, because I am never going to be leaving my saw or chisel to work on their own.
  50. 1 point
    I thought about the webcam, but the Christmas prep, the last minute log move and life in general just got in the way... I didn't have time to do the research and make it happen. I'm off work all next week, and I'll be able to post pictures more frequently. Thanks for the tip on curling the bucket - I tried that, but between the log being pear shaped, and my general lack of excavator skill, I found it easier to strap the dang thing to the bucket with the 15000 lb tow straps. I slabbed up the knuckle where the branches splay out on the bandsaw on Saturday - I'm hoping the rest of the log is as awesome as this part is.