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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/14/19 in Posts

  1. 6 points
    At this point I've got all the joints to the seat and arm sculpted. Still have refining and sanding, but I'm close in these areas. Rockers are glued up and transition blocks glued on. Waiting here to finish the headrest so I can balance the rockers and start to fit the legs to the rockers. So I'm left with the headrest and the spindles, started refining the spindles now and headrest is on deck. So to tackle the spindles, which have already been cut out to rough shape, I start by shaping the bottom half of the spindles. The front side of the spindles have a slight crown on the surface and the back of the spindles have a heavy round over. With the mid line marked and the line on the side of the spindle guide me for my first surface, the light crowning of the front side; I handle this just with cabinet rasps; The back side before starting heavy round over; Roughed out with the RAS; Both sides of center line roughed out with RAS; Then rasps to clean up and even out the round over; Next is the round tenon at the bottom of the spindle, need this to be 1/2"; A Veritas tenon cutter makes quick work of this; Now on to the the small sander with interface pad. Front of spindle presanding; The unevenness is quickly smoothed with 120 grit; Now the backside presanding; Again, sander with interface pad makes for a nice rounded surface; The spindles need to look uniform and the spindle shoulder height needs to be uniform. Here is a line using the two outside spindles and a mark up on the outer edge of each spindle from the seat at 3 1/4 "; I level the spindle shoulders to that line. This is all rasp work; I am only half way done with the spindles. Headrest is next before I can tackle the top half of the spindles. Oh this took awhile, 4 1/2 hrs to put my total time at 35 hrs. Thanks for looking.
  2. 4 points
    This is a better picture taken by the clients new iPhone . The camera is much improved. Here are the pulls provided by the client. I will try to get some pics when delivered and in place. In my eye, the stain makes it look like a non stained piece 20 years old. But my guess is the 20year non stained piece will look better. The continuing grain on the drawer faces is almost a non event due to staining. The keys are the same for each drawer.
  3. 3 points
    Progress.... The jointer was missing one of the jack screw bolts and washer. Found one on eBay for $5. That came today so I got it installed and the tables leveled. Next I need to get the motor mounted and aligned withe machine.
  4. 2 points
    That's good to know, hadn't thought about carvers, but don't mimic everything you see someone else doing.
  5. 2 points
    Brass, always by hand. And that follows pre-tapping with a steel screw. Unlike most of life's lessons, I only had to learn that one once.
  6. 2 points
    It sounds like you have thought about this a lot so I am sure you know that you have to work safely and think safely and have a plan around all of your power tools and then pass those traits on to your son. I am sure you know that the SawStop won't be a substitute for this mindset but an added layer of safety. Its not instead of, it is an addition to safe work habits.
  7. 2 points
    Like Paul, I've owned many different table saws over the years - Rockwell contractors, PM66, Inca 259; Felder 5 function slider combo, Rockwell hybrid, Unisaw, DeWalt jobsite saw, Sawstop PCS 3 HP. Easily the best has been the SS PCS. Worked great right out of the box and has performed flawlessly since. I fully understand other's hesitancy regarding the technology, but have different priorities. I place a very high value on my fingers. Accidents do happen. To me, it's icing on the cake. It's just a good saw all around. We have a total of 8 Sawstop saws at school with some 20 or so classes per week offered each semester, roughly 10 - 12 students per class. The saws get a lot of use. Someone trips a cartridge maybe once a year. We take a picture for the bulletin board when they do. Just about a week ago a woman touched the blade reaching behind it. It tripped and slightly trimmed her fingernail. Blade was not ruined but put back into use within a few minutes.
  8. 2 points
    X2. I own the 220 3hp PCS and should also add that I have previously owned a Ridgid, and a Powermatic 66 both were great saws for me but the SS is by far the best.
  9. 2 points
    Around here, 'argument' doesn't have negative connotations, as we are a genteel lot whom like to maintain a high degree of decorum
  10. 2 points
    Fair question.. I also know you have a little wiggle room. If you have 220 power, I would have to seriously consider the Grizzly 1023. 3HP saw, good fence, and no need for upgrades. From there, I would go with the Grizz that you're looking at and lastly, the Rigid.
  11. 2 points
    Hi everyone! I’m an older member who doesn’t post often, but here’s my latest finished piece:
  12. 2 points
    I think I can save it. I’m gonna make some moulding and lay it across the HOLE in the top of the board. Not part of the plan, but the plan is out the window in this are anyway. I just don’t want to replace the board when it’s a waterfall grain effect I was going for. But yeah, it’s still sitting there. I don’t throw things in the shop, but I “dropped” my hearing protection and safety glasses on the bench, went in, fires up the PS4 and killed some monsters Oh and later I had a drink. So there.
  13. 2 points
    Client dropped by and helped me stack the unit. They gave me an order for a matching desk! They must have liked it. The ladies present gave lots of oos and ahhhs. Orders are the equivalent of oxygen for me.
  14. 1 point
    4 file drawers and 2 small on top. Yet to come an 8/4 walnut top.. Then open shelves above...And another 8/4 top above the shelves... Panels are mill run fas walnut book matched. First project with my new Jessem. Very user friendly.And powerful with a 3.25hp porter cable.
  15. 1 point
    I thought that the build might begin with preparing the panels, since there has been some interest in the past shown in the shorter Hammer K3 sliders. Mine has a 49" long slider and a 31" wide table for the rip fence. The build is an entry hall table for a wedding present for a niece. Her choice was this mid century modern piece, which will be the basis for the build. My job is to re-invent it somewhat. She wants Jarrah, and I have managed to find something spectacular ... a subtle fiddleback (curly) set of boards that will make a book match (as they are only about 9" wide each). Most imagine that the value of a slider lies with cross-cutting. It certainly is so. However it is the rip using the slider - rather than the rip fence - which is so amazing. One side of each board was to be ripped on the slider, before being jointed and resawn. Ripping on the slider is such an advantage with life edges. No jigs required. No rip fence to slide against. Just clamp the board on the slider, and run it past the saw blade. The long sliders can complete the rip in one quick pass. It occurred to me that I should take a few photos of ripping to width since the boards are longer than the slider. Here you can see that it comes up short ... In actuality, with the blade raised fully, there is a cut of nearly 54" ... The solution is to use a combination square to register the position of the side of the board at the front, and then slide the board forward and reposition it ... ... and repeat at the rear ... The result is a pretty good edge, one that is cleaned up on the jointer in 1 or 2 passes, and then ready for resawing ... This is the glued panel. It is long enough to make a waterfall two sides and top section (still oversize) ... The following photo shows the lower section at the rear. What I wanted to show is the way boards are stored. Since I shall not get back to this build until next weekend, all boards are stickered and clamped using steel square sections. The steel sections are inexpensive galvanised mild steel. These are covered in vinyl duct tape to prevent any marks on the wood and ease in removing glue ... Done for the day ... Enough for the case (top/bottom and sides), which will be through dovetailed with mitred corners, the stock for 4 legs (yet to be turned), and rails for the legs (the legs will be staked mortice-and-tenon) and attached with a sliding dovetail. Regards from Perth Derek
  16. 1 point
    Starting a thread for those that might be interested in a supermax sander. I figured if someone wanted to post a future sale here as well it might help those that are looking. I was talking to Woodcraft and the salesman dropped a very strong hint that the Supermax 16-32 will be on sale starting Feb 1st 2018 for $999
  17. 1 point
    Hello guys, I wanted to show you my last job. I built a mini carpenter workbench. maybe for many it is nothing special but for me that I work in the garage and I have little space it allows me to do carpentry work with more precision but important to be able to use the plane. You can rest it on the bench and fix it with bench vises I hope you like it for the moment I'm satisfied. This the video walktrought https://youtu.be/6Fodk-yAW7M
  18. 1 point
    I'd pull the pin.. You'd have to do that to change the blade anyway and I'm guessing they're going to have you do that in the trouble shooting process. Probably better to know before the call.
  19. 1 point
    Don't mean to Threadjack. When I align my saws my first step is to make the room for my hand as large as is workable. That is, I have the top as far to the right as I can (on a left tilt saw) and then align. I also find that reaching for the nut with my left hand (on a left tilt saw) is easier than using my right although I am right handed. We now return you to your regularly scheduled program.
  20. 1 point
    Bosch Daredevil. They're very aggressive, the tip is a screw that pulls the bit in. No way I can use a regular drill with them as they pull in hard until they stall and then you break your wrist, but since they have a hex shank they work great in the impact driver.
  21. 1 point
    Good observations and advice so far. Obviously if things are square and true, they will line up correctly when assembled. Your pictures do not show this happening so there is something out of square somewhere. Small errors add up when multiple parts are assembled so some parts that looks fine on their own can still deliver a "huh!?!" result when put together. You're getting the drift that compound miter saws do great for framing a house, not so great at building furniture. They are accurate to a point but, a lot of furniture joinery compounds small errors by their very nature. Things that are fine for a kitchen upper cabinet may not fly for a china hutch. Your table looks pretty basic (I do not mean that in a negative way at all) so the joinery is pretty straight forward. When using dimensional lumber, checking for square can be a challenge. The material is often irregular along its length so even though each end may check as square, they are out of plane with each other. When one end is fastened to an adjacent surface it pulls the other end out of alignment due to these irregularities. This 36" long 2x4 looks fine but, it has one half a degree of twist: If I attach some nice square legs to it: One end joins well: While the opposite shows signs of trouble: If I add another piece and then another, the problem compounds. One way to get around this is to cut the piece to fit the irregularity. The difficulty of this will depend on how far out of whack your material is. The real fix is to mill your material square and true but, we don't all have jointers and planers and drum sanders. Being creative to work around this is not a bad thing.
  22. 1 point
    Honestly, I prefer to drive brass by hand. I understand what you mean. Impact drivers for me are tools for framing and decking and the like, of which I do plenty.
  23. 1 point
    RE: Asian-made machines. Consider that to buy American, you'll need to go to something like a Northfield, #4, which is ridiculously over-built and over budget for a hobbyist. Although just looking at one brings out my inner Tim Taylor.
  24. 1 point
    I'm not making a judgement, but every shoe rack I've ever seen, had the shelving at a slight angle. With a proud edge to keep them in place.
  25. 1 point
    You could also make a router sled to flatten it and then sand with ROS.
  26. 1 point
    32 inches is pretty wide. You might have to start by doing some of it with a hand plane and then find someone with a drum sander. You chances of finding a 32 inch drum sander are a lot high then a 32 inch planer. You might want to start by doing a search in your area for cabinet shops or maker spaces and then call and see if they will help.
  27. 1 point
    The grain in that seat is pretty awesome Bmac! I love how it goes to the left and right at the back. Great tips throughout the build thanks!!
  28. 1 point
    I"m tempted to buy this one, and I don't even need one. https://greensboro.craigslist.org/tls/d/alamance-table-saw/7017591761.html
  29. 1 point
    Pretty soon, there will be good sales on them. I don't believe that which brand you choose makes a whole lot of difference. My first cordless drill was a Makita, bought in 1983. I'm still using that one, but it doesn't get used much-dedicated to only drilling out rivets on sailboats. My advice is to choose the brand that you like, and your local retailer seems to push over the other brands. My Home Depot has a big Makita following, and it works out well for me, since often there are returned items that go cheap, in the Makita system.
  30. 1 point
    Ya, get used to it But seriously, let's clear the air here. Asian made can be just as good as the finest American or European machines. It's the American companies that import them, and ultimately the consumer that pays for them that specifies the quality of the build. They just build it like we tell 'em to build it. Cheap is king.
  31. 1 point
    You definitely did a nice job and built a good looking piece. This was my thought. But the customer is always right.
  32. 1 point
    ...and leaves me with no desire to make more.
  33. 1 point
    Wow, there's no accounting for taste. But does walnut not lighten with age? I've seen antique walnut furniture that is darn near blonde.
  34. 1 point
    ...and makes your arms hurt .
  35. 1 point
    I think you should look hard at the Grizzly 1023. 3 hp, very good fence and will be a lifetime saw. I've had mine for over 3 years, and find it will cut through anything you can bring to it, with the right blades.
  36. 1 point
    Welcome Capn. Looks like you're on the right track with priorities. Safety: look for a good, easy to use guard and riving knife. It should be easy & quick to mount & remove them, preferably toolless. There are lots of times when you need to switch them out & if that is a pain, then they won't get used. And there's always the blade brake technology, which is great, but the SawStop machines that have it are pricey. The brake only adds a couple of hundred dollars, but the saws are otherwise high end, which runs the price up. Fence: I like the Biesmeyer clone type, but not all clones are good. There should be no flex at the back end, even under substantial side pressure. They are simple to adjust, and they stay true forever. Precision: more money gets you greater precision, but even at your budget level you'll be fine. It's mainly a matter of taking the time, like hours if needed, to calibrate it properly. Once that's done, they generally stay that way. Unless it's dropped or something I suggest you rethink your budget though. If you can afford $2500, then a better quality table saw is something that you'll appreciate every time you use it. When I upgrade from a contractor saw, I got a SawStop PCS and am very happy with it. It's got a very good fence and the riving knife/guard are about the best there is. And it has the blade brake. Good luck & happy shopping.
  37. 1 point
    I've use uShip several times without issue.
  38. 1 point
    Back at it since returning from another unsuccessful surf fishing trip for the depleted Striped Bass. Was able to get a few hrs in and worked on the arm to leg joints. These go pretty quick and gives you the best example of my method of what I refer to as power sculpting. Started with the back leg to arm joint. You have a decent amount of excess arm material which I quickly take down with the RAS. Then I switch to 80 grit on the RAS as I'll be using this for more fine refinements next. Once material is flush I start with the outside of the arm. Here I first use the rasps and then move to the small sander with an interface pad. There is a large flat area here that I lightly crown over and I'm a little more aggressive removing wood on the underside of the joint. This goes pretty quickly; Now it's to the top inside edge of both arms. In this first pic you can see where I start after the RAS reduction. Smooth contours but a sharp edge; After the rasps; Then the small sander with the interface pad, this gets me in the ballpark; Next is the inside of the arm where we add the classic Maloof detail of a sweeping curve sculpted into the arm. Maloof used a long sweeping curve that travels up the arm further than the curve I use. Start by marking it out; Now you can see in the picture above we have left a little more thickness here to build in this detail. First thing I do is use the RAS with the 80 grit to start the reduction. You do this with a light touch and with the edge of the pad. This machine is great for this; Now on to the rasps. Like the modeler rasp here; Now you can see I still have some bulk below the curve; Handle this with the small sander and the interface pad. The edge of the interface pad rides along the curve; This is post sanding; That gives me a nice result, stand chair up and look at it from a different angle, still notice some extra thickness below the curve; After a little more reduction we are better; You can see from this pic I put my plugs in the screw holes. For this chair I decided to change species and went with walnut plugs. In the past I've always used the same species for the plugs but with this lighter wood I was concerned the glue line would stand out. After that I move to the arm to front leg joint. Here it is prior to shaping; After some quick work with the RAS; Now the rasps; Now the sander/interface pad; Still need to do a lot of hand sanding in this area but this is a good start. Then I move to the front profile of the arm, I leave some bulk here for clamping on the arm. Create the more delicate edge after arm is glued on; So once that is done I got a few other areas addressed. Started rounding over and sanding the back legs above the arm but below the headrest; Worked on the underside of the seat; Worked on the side profile of the front leg; and getting ready to glue my blocks on the rockers; So next is on to the headrest and spindles. I'll glue the blocks on the rockers and set them aside so they are ready when I get there. Also throughout the next few steps I'll do some more refinement and hand sanding. It's good to get away for a few days and look again when dealing with refinements. All total for this session is 3.5 hrs, bringing my total to 30.5. Thanks for looking.
  39. 1 point
    Finally home from a long work road trip! Had some catching up to do! A few projects to get done that have been piling up! Only the bathroom vanity was done for YouTube.. 1. Table Lazy Susan and a cutting board for 2 different clients.. 2. A thread storage cabinet for my wife's quilting room 3. Bathroom Vanity for a client. 4. And, a floating picture frame for a family member..
  40. 1 point
    I enjoyed the work. I wish I could have convinced the client not to stain. I would have liked it more.
  41. 1 point
    Still have plenty of work left. I need to make the deadman, create the gap stop, ease the edges, figure out a temporary bottom shelf, and apply some sort of finish. The gap between the slabs is larger than Marc's and my plan is to make the gapstop large enough in a way that tools can be stored there but that they will sit below the bench surface.
  42. 1 point
    Honestly there are FAR too many variables to say Xhp will work. With a well setup efficient system a 1.5hp DC could be enough for a 1 man shop. 2hp would make things a lot easier. 3hp is enough to run 2 4" machines at once. 5hp is big enough to run 2 6" machines at once. 4" and 6" are the dust port size. If you minimize flex hose and move from tool to tool I don't doubt that collector would capture as much dust as a 4" port could collect.The 570 CFM is with 2" WC pressure drop on the hose so that assumes probably 10 feet of flex.Less flex hose is less pressure which is more suction. I have a 3hp gorilla pro their hepa filters are good and efficient.
  43. 1 point
    That's what I said, but my wife's not buying it.
  44. 1 point
    I use old paint thinner by using it for the initial wash, then a wash with fresh thinner, then I work in a big blob of dish soap, rinsing well. It actually seems to get the last finish residue better than just using paint thinner alone. I collect the spent mineral spirits in an old thinner container. When it gets full, I take it to a recycling facility.
  45. 1 point
    Mineral spirits and a comb works. For paint & finish waste, I mix it with wood shavings and let it dry, then bag it for the trash. Our local landfill will accept most any type of finish as long as it has cured.
  46. 1 point
    With the face on and the 2 adjustable shelves. Other than finishing and a few details, I am starting on the 2 tops. Some very nice 8/4.
  47. 1 point
    I'm going to avoid the cnc topic as that's something that's been talked about many times. As far as 3d printers go, up until very recently I was in the camp that had absolutely no interest. I couldn't see any need for it and figured they were too slow to bother with. I like to do power carving and like the Arbortech Turboplane. Anyone who has used one of these things knows they make an awful mess if you use them indoors. Arbortech is supposed to be coming out with dust collection for it, but they've opted to make their own grinder and the dust collection attachment only fits that grinder and you have to buy the whole kit. It's not going to be available in the US until sometime next year, which means at least part of the winter with weather that prevents doing anything outside. There's no official US pricing, but based on what I've seen in other countries it's going to be $250. I already have a nice Metabo grinder to use with it that I really like. So I did the math and decided that a $180 3d printer would pay for itself just by making a dust collection attachment for the grinder I already have. Plus I get a new tool in bargain. So for the past week I've been playing around with designing this attachment starting from getting a ring to fit the keyed slots in the mount for the guard on the grinder on up to a functioning item. The CAD part of it was frustrating at first, as I was dealing with trying to do things I've never done before in a program I'm not familiar with. But I enjoy the problem solving side of things. Getting to try something out and then be able to remake the whole part just by tweaking the design and hitting a button is really nice. I'm willing to try things out where I would have long since run out of time and patience with the whole thing if I had to fabricate it myself. At this point I have something that kinda works but I think it could be much better. I'm at a back to the drawing board point to try something completely different and that would never happen without the 3d printer to do all the actual fabricating. It does take a very long time to print the whole attachment, around 18 hours. But to be able to tweak the design in an hour or so and then press a button and the next day I just have the thing ready to try out is very nice. Making this thing isn't my goal. The goal is to use it to do the thing I actually want to do more easily. I have a cnc machine, but I don't use it to replace my power carving. The 3d printer isn't going to replace making anything out of wood. The computerized stuff just does some of things I don't want to do or am not able to do. Oh and as far as Marc goes, he already has 3d models of the furniture he makes. He could use a 3d printer to make dollhouse sized version of the things he builds for Ava with next to zero effort.
  48. 1 point
    I liked Marc's breadbox build very much. Alison liked most of it. We compromised and below is the result. Air-dried walnut with ambrosia maple door and drawer, with ebony pulls.
  49. 1 point
    So I was going through the Snodgrass routine and got to thinking more about that blade guard. Although it seemed intentionally loose, there is a spring that holds the blade guard to one side, there just didn't seem to be any purpose to making it that way. Spent some time looking at the mechanism more closely and found two recessed screws in the back. Sure enough they were loose and sure enough they were 4mm allen. I guess that the factory had neither files nor 4mm allen wrenches the day they made this unit. Anyway tightening the two screws solved the problem. Took out the shim.
  50. 1 point
    I would also recommend the Woodslicer, but I also have the Laguna Resaw King and it is an awesome blade for resawing.